Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales

William Wales - Journal on the Resolution, 21 June 1772-17 Oct. 1774
Safe 1/84

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June 21st. Left London along with Capt. Cook, and arrived at Sheerness about 11 o’clock AM. Got on board the Time keeper Instruments etc. Weather very Cloudy and hot. The wind moderate at S. & SW.

22nd. Weighd and fell down to the Nore. Employed in examining & putting away the Instruments. Weather very hot and almost calm.

23rd. Opened and examined the Thermometers and put one up in my cabin near where the time keepers are to be put up.

N.B. Found that one had been broke in moving them about, during Time when the Ship was undergoing Alterations at Sheerness. Weather very hot, flying Clouds, and light breezes at east.

24th. Weighd and fell down to Margate Loader, and about 8h. came to an Anchor there. About 16h. weighd, and proceded for the downs: flying Clouds and a fresh wind at south

25th. At 3h. came to an Anchor in the Downes, the Town of Deal bearing W. and the South Foreland S.W.bS. At 21h. weighd and got under sail. At Noon the South Foreland bore west, dist 1 Mile Wind Variable S.W bS to NE.

26th. At 4h. the South Foreland bore N.EbE. dist 3 or 4 Leag. At 8h. Anchored in 20 fathm. South Foreland bearing N.EbE. Dungeness W ½ N. At 12h. weighed and made sail. At 16h. Tacked. Dungeness bearing W ½ S. At 20h. anchored in 22 fathm. Dungeness bearing N.W.b N. At 22 weighd and made sail. Observed the Sun merid. Alt. 62°12’ whence the true Lat of the Ship 50°50’N. and as Dungeness at that time bore N.W ½ N dist 3 Miles, the Lat. of that point is 50°: 52’ [indecipherable] Light breezes all round the Compass.

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27th. At 4h. Dungeness N.N.E. and Fair Leigh Point W.N.W. At 6h. Tacked At Beachey Head 7 or 8 Leas. This evening found the fore topmast Truselltree was sprung: got down the fore top Gallt: Mast & yard. About 20h. came too with the small Boat in 24 fathm. Fair Leigh N.bW½N. Beachey Head W.N.W. At 20h. weighed and made sail and at Noon observed the sun Merid. Alt 62°17’ Whence the Lat of the Ship was 50°38’ 5/8 N. Beachey bearing N.W.bW. dist about 5 or 6 Leags.; so that its Lat. by this Observation is 50°42 ½ N

28th. At 4h. Beachey Head W.N.W 3 or 4 Leags; At 6 Beachey Head N.WbW Fair Leigh N.E.bE. At 8h. Beachey Head N.W; 5 or 6 Miles distant and at 10h. W. ¼ N. at 14h. N.bE. dist 2 or 3 Miles and at 16h. it was due East. At 19h. Anchored in 17 fathm: Beachey Head bearing S.E. ½ E. At 22h. weighed and made sail, and at Noon Beachey head bore East of South, dist. about 3 Lea.

29th. At 11h. Dunnose bore W.N.W. dist. 5 Lea. at 8h. it was N.bW. about 2 Lea at 16h. Dunnose was E.bN ; Peveral Point N. ½ W. and at the same time Portland bore W.bN.½N. at 20h. Peveral Point was NbE½E, dist. some 4 or 5 Lea. and at Noon the Bell of Portland bore NWbN dist 5 or 6 Lea. and Peveral Point N:W ½ N 50°15½' N.

30th. At 4h. Portland Lights bore N.W½W dist about 2 Lea. at 8h. they bore North, dist 4 or 5 Lea. At 20h. the start bore N.W.bW.½W. dist 6 or 7 Lea and at Noon bore N.W. about 7 Miles; Lat Observed 50°: 11’ N. and hence the Lat of the start 50°.13.7 N. The Weather this 24h. hazy with Light breezes from the N.W to the N.E.

Jul 1st. At 4h. Spoke to the Glory Frigate; the start N.W ½N. dist about 4 Leagues; at half past 6 came too with the extream Bower, in 34 fathm, the start point bearing N.W½W & the Berry head N.N.E. At 18h. came too with a Kedge Anchor, in 47 fathm. Bolt head bearing then N.N.W ½ W the start N.N.E½E. At 21h. weighed & made sail. At Noon observed the same Merid. Alt. 62°43' whence the Latitude of the ship was then 50°6' N. The Weather these 24h., with Light Airs between the North & N.W.bW

2nd. About 2h. Saw three sail in the N.W. At 6 joined them and found them to be the Augusta yacht with Lord Sandwich on board on his return from visiting the Dock Yard at Plymouth the Glory Frigate & Hazard Sloop. We saluted the yacht with 17 Guns. A little before & His Lordship came on board us with the Controllor of the Navy & some others

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whom at their departure we saluted with three cheers, and made sail; at 20h. Anchord in Plymouth Sound in 6 fathm. & found there the Adventure Sloop. Light breezes & fair

3rd. Went on shore to Mr. Bayley, at Drakes Island, where I found he had got up his astronomical clock & was employed in Observing for expanding Altitudes for the time & meridian altitudes to determine the Latitude of the place. Got Capt. Cook’s Tent & the Transit Instrument on shore. The Weather Cloudy at times with some Rain.

4th. Employed in pitching of the Tent digging the Hole for the Transit Instrument and putting together of the stand which supports it.

5th. Fixed up the Transit Instrument & got it near the plane of the Meridian.
6th.)
7th.)
8th.)
9th.) Employed in making sundry observations of Drakes Island for which see Observations Book.

10th. Carried on shore the Two Time keepers, and set that which was made by Mr. Kendall going, nearly to mean time and Mr. Arnold did the same by those which were made by him. About 7h. Capt Cook & Lieut. Cooper came on shore, compared the Time keepers with the Astronomical clock and attested the Comparison (See the Observations Book) after which which we took down the Instruments & Observations, packed them up & put them on board the ship.

11th. Employed on board the Ship Computing the Observations & writing letters etc. etc.

12th. Dropped down from the Buoy; of Drakes Island, and Anchored in Plymouth Sound. At 16h. we Weighed and sailed from thence: the Adventure in Company. At 20h. the Ram head bore North distance 2 Miles and at Noon it bore N.E¼E. I observed the same Meridian Altitude 61°28½' and thence deduced the Latitude of the Ship 50°00'.
By our Observations Drakes Island is in Lat 50° 21½'N and by Mr. Gilberts Map of Plymouth; Plymouth Sound & the Ram head bear S. 43°W. from Drakes Island distant about 4¼ Miles. Hence the Ram head is in Lat 50° 18'N and Long 0°. 5' west from Drakes Island. Hence the Ship was distant from the Ram Head at Noon 15½ Miles west in Long 0°13' and of Course the Longitude of the Ship west of Drakes Island was 0°. 18'.

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Monday July 13th 1772.

Weather
Fresh Breeze & Clear
Do.
Cloudy & less wind

Remarks
Bore down to the Adventure

Weather
Moderate & Cloudy
Foggy with drearling Rain

Remarks
Tacked Ship & fired a Gun for the Adventure to do &

Weather
Light breeze & foggy

Tuesday 14th. July 1772

Weather
Little wind & foggy

Remarks
Thermomtr. B63

Weather
Do.
Thick Fogg & little wind

Remarks
Fired 4 Guns for the Adventure to Tack & Tacked
Fired a Gun for the Adventure
The Adventure in Sight

Weather
Very hazy
Moderate & hazy

Remarks
The Adventure in Company Meridn Alt. Sun’s L.L. 62°. [indecipherable]

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Wednesday July 15th. 1772

Weather
Mode. Wind & hazy
Do.

Remarks
Shortened sail for Adventure

Weather
Do. & Cloudy

Remarks
A great swell from the S.W.

Weather
Do. & hazy
The Weather as above
Flying Clouds
Moderate wind & Clear

Remarks
The swell continuous. Adventure in company.

Thursday July 16th.1772

Weather
Moderate Wind & Clear

Remarks
Thermometer B 63°

Weather
Do.
Do.
Moderate wind & Cloudy
Squally

Remarks
Barom. (30°25 Therm A 6 –16°-- 63 ½

Weather
Fresh breezes & Cloudy
Very hazy

Remarks
The Adventure in Company Merid. Alt.Sun’s L.L. [indecipherable]

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Friday July 17th.1772

Weather
Moderate wind & hazy

Remarks
Thermometer B 70°

Weather
Do.
Wind moderate Cloudy
Wind do. Rain & very unsettled weather
Squally with rain
Do.
Foggy with rain.

Saturday July 18th.1772

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy

Remarks
A heavy swell from the West

Weather
Brisk breeze & Cloudy

Remarks
Shortened sail for the Adventure

Weather
Moderate wind and Cloudy
Weather as above
Weather still ye same
Still Cloudy the wind brisk
Very hazy

Remarks
The Adventure in Compny. Merid Alt Sun’s L.L. 65°12'

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Sunday July 19th.1772

Weather
Moderate wind and Clear

Remarks
Shortened sail for the Adventure.
Made sail

Weather
Weather as above
Fresh breeze & Cloudy
Squally & much rain

Remarks
Backed the Mizen Top Sail for the Adventure.

Weather
Squally with Showers

Remarks
Set the Mizen Topsail

Barom.
(29.90) Thermomt. A 65 Do. B 63
(30.20)

Weather
Squally with fog & very thick weather

Remarks
At ½ past 21h. we saw Cape Ortagal South b.E. dist. [indecipherable] or
6 Lea.
Handed the Topsail & went under our Course

Weather
Very foggy

Remarks
Cape Ortagal 5 b.W. 2 or 3 Lea. The Adventure [indecipherable] & to
Leeward Merid. Alt. O's L.L. 66°. 27½'.

Monday July 20th. 1772

Weather
Very Foggy Strong Wind

Remarks
By the observation at N. Cape Ortagal lies Lat 43°46½' N. & Long 8°38¾' by Obsv. O & D.
In Long 4.6 W by Kendall. In 3°11½ W. by 4

Weather
More Moderate & Rain

Remarks
At 3h. wore Ship Cape Ortagal S.W. dist. 5 Miles.
Set the Fore Topsail

Weather
Light breeze & thick Fog.

Fine Breeze & rain
Do. Do.
Mode. Breeze & hazy

Remarks
30(00) A B
(20) 63½ 60
Cape Pryor S.½ W. dist 3 Miles

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Meridian Alt. 8½ Sun’s L.L. 66°..40’
Cape Ortagal E. 3°. N. Groyn Light [indecipherable] dist. 3½ Lea. The Adventure astern.

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Tuesday July 21st. 1772

Weather
Cloudy & Calm
Do. Do.

Remarks
Groyn Light S.E.bS. dist 5 Leag.
At 4h. sounded 87 fathm. I then went on board the Adventure to Compare my watches with those of Mr. Bayley and found that the Kendall’s watch was 48" faster than Mr. Arnold’s No. 1. We afterwards went on board a [indecipherable] Tartan bound from Marseilles to Ferro with flower of whom we purchased 100 Bottles Frontenac Wein for 3 £Bottles included & about 60 Bottles of Syrup of Orgeat at 6d. ea; they informed us that 3 Spanish Ships of War were Cruising of Finistre.

Weather
Light Airs & foggy
Do. Do.
Do. and very hazy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
At noon observed ye Merid. Alt. O's L.L. 66°.23'.
Isle Lizard S.b. E. dist. 4 or 5 Leas. The Adventure in compy.

Wednesday July 22nd. 1772

Weather
Moderate breeze & hazy

Remarks
This afternoon the three Spanish Ships mentioned above passed us: they were from 64 to 70 Guns each. The last had a flag at the fore-top mast head & hoisted English Colours.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. flying Clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
When he got abreast of the Adventure who was some distance of us he fired a Gun to Leeward: soon after he hauled down ye English & hoisted Spanish Colours & then fired a shot at the Adventure who had now passed him & still kept on her Course. He now tacked and stood after her making the Signal to his consorts to do the same, not caring (I suppose) to trust himself alone with a ship of her appearance. He then fired (boldly) another shot at the little thing, and the Joke beginning to grow from the Resolution being set too, as did also the Adventure & waited to know the Commands, which were only to know our names. An Errand in my opinion not worth the shot & powder to say nothing of trouble.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
O's Merid. Alt. 67°. 28'. The Adventure in Company.

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Thursday July 23rd. 1772

Weather
Clear and a brisk Gale
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation observed by Azimuth 22¾ °W
Shortened sail for the Adventure

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
By the bearing & Distance of Cape Finistre Battery at 8 oClock last night I made it Lat. 43°. 8½' West and Longit. by K 5°. 12' W: of Plymouth say's 3°. 52' W. The mean of 3 Lunar observations gives 9°.26' . 28" West of Greenwich. They are reduced to the Plan by means of the Watch K. The above Latitude must be a little uncertain because of the uncertainty of the Dist. estimate; but the bearing being 5°true I think. The Longit. may be depended on, is the thing chiefly wanted, the Latit. being well known before I performe

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Merid. Alt. O 69°.31'. The Adventure in Company.

Fryday 24th. July 1772

Weather
Clear & a brisk Gale
Do. Do.
Do. Very Hazy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Baromr. 30 (15/48) Thermr. A 69¼°, B. 67¼°

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Merid. Alt. Sun 71°. 40' The Adventure in Company.

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Saturday July 25th. 1772

Weather
Fresh Gale & Cloudy

Remarks
Tried Dr Linds wind Gage; but did not find that the wind had any effect on it: we had as much as we could well carry our Topgallant sails to.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 3h. the Thermr. A. 71°, B. 73.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Saw a sail in the S.E. Quarter
Baromr. 30 (10/35) Thermr. A. 69, B. 68¼.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Merid. Alt. O's L.L. 73°. 36'. The Adventure in Company.

Sunday July 26th 1772

Weather
Modr. Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Thermometer B. 74°.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. and very hazy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Merid. Alt. Sun’s's L.L. 75°. 10'. The Adventure in Company.

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Monday 27th. July 1772

Weather
Modr. Wind & Clear
Do. Do.

Remarks
Saw land from the fore Topgall Yard
Variation by Azimuth 20°. 23' W.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. & Hazy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Saw the Island of Porto Sancto plain

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 20h. the Body of Porto Sancto NWbN dist abt. 4 Miles
At 22h. the East end of Porto Sancto bore North & the nearest [indecipherable] S.W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At Noon the East End of Porto Sancto bore NE½E the Beacon [indecipherable] of Medina W½S dist 8 Lea. & ye most Southerly Deserta SSW½W.

Tuesday 28th. July 1772

At 4 oClock the Brazen Head bore W ½ N. about which time it fell a dead calm: the Boats were now hoisted out to tow the Ship a head; by the help of which and a light breeze which sprang up in the north-east quarter we got to an Anchor about 10 o’Clock in Funchal Road in 28 fathoms water and veered out ¼ Cable. When we brought up the Brazen-Head bore N¼E. the Loo Rock N.WbW. ¼ W. and the most Southerly point of Land at W. ½ N. Presently after the Adventure gets in and came to an Anchor between us and the Loo. At sun-rise the Town was saluted with eleven Guns and an equal Number were returned to us from the fort on the Loo Rock.
These most important matters being settled, and having a little time on my hands, before Breakfast comes it may not be amiss to take a short trip back to the Island of Porto Sancto, which I have left a little unceremoniously. I now find by my observations of yesterday that its East end lies in the Latitude 32°: 58¼' N. Longitude 12°9½ W. from Plymouth by Mr. Kendall’s Watch. The mean of my two last Lunar Observations give its Longitude 16°:21' W. I cannot help observing that this Island is very badly laid down both in shape and profile in all the Maps which I have seen. As near as I had any opportunity of determining our run past it, its length is something more than 2 Leagues and its breadth where broadest at the west end a little more than one. It is very high land at both ends but low in the Middle, and many Rocks lie off it especially towards its east & west ends: they are however all of them easily seen and avoided as the are all very high. In the Middle of the South Side, which is that which we passed on is a large open sandy Bay and at the bottom of it a small Town with a Church, but I am told that the principal town is on the north side of the Island, between which and the above mentioned Sandy Bay it is not quite a League broad.
As soon as we got round the South East point we saw the high Rocks which lie off the South end of Maderia and the Desertas very plain. The Desertas are three Islands, two of which, viz. the southern & middle ones are pretty large, lying in a straight line nearly S.S.E. from the above mentioned Rocks.
From the South Point of Porto Sancto to the Rocks lying of the south-east Point of Maderia, the land is W.S.W. and dist. about 10 Leagues; and from thence to the Beacon Head it is W. b. S. near 4 leagues.

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July ye 28th. There is a very good Passage between these Rocks and the most northerly Desertas upwards of two leagues wide, and, as I am told no danger except a sunken Rock over which the sea breaks in bad weather: it lies about ½ a league from the Rocks so often mentioned. Round these Rocks a Bay formed by them and a point of land which lies a little to the Eastward of the Brazen Head is the Town of Sancto Cruz where the Portuguese have a small Fort.
In going into the Bay of Funchall, which is, in truth, but an indifferent Roadstead it will be best not to come too close in under the Land, seeing that it is almost always dead calm, except in the night, when a gentle Breeze blows from the Land. It will not be prudent to Anchor before the great Church of St. Anne (the only one which has a spire) bears North and the New-Fort on the Loo Rock N.W. It will be still better if the Loo-Rock is brought to bear Westward of N.W & by W. and then the Brazen Head will bear South of the East. The Ground is there good and the soundings from 25 to 20 fathoms.
After Breakfast I went with Capt. Cook to the British Consul to beg he would obtain leave of the Governor for us to carry on shore our Instruments etc., which was nicely granted, and also leave from Mr. Lachlan to fix them up in a tolerable convenient place in his house which is about 200 yards nearly due East from the place where Dr. Heberden made his Observations.

29th. Got on shore the Clocks Instruments etc., which was attended with more trouble & expence than I expected, being obliged to pay two Pistereens for a small Boat which happened to be along side to carry me on shore to hire one which was large enough for the purpose. When we got them in place they were ordered up to the Customs House where we had to wait until every Box was opened and examined. We paid a small duty of half a Pistereen a case & about 2 or 3 Pistereens in fees and got them all up to Mr. Lachlan’s House in the Evening. I will not appear to those who are more conversant in Customs House Business in England that either we or the Portguese officers were guilty of tardiness. In the morning we got the Clock fixed & set agoing.

30th. Adjusted the Quadrant and began to observe Equal Altitudes. Got on shore the Marine Time Keepers and compared them with the Clock.

31st. Employed in observing Equal Altitudes & computing the times from them, and also the Longitude of the Place by the Watches. This forenoon met by chance with Capt. Cook who informed me that I must have every thing on board the Ship in the Evening.

August ye 1st. Being loath to take down the Clocks before I had got altitudes corresponding to those which I had taken in the Morning, more especially as the rate of its going could not be had without them I let it remain fixed until near 5 oClock. I then took it down packed it and the other Instrument up and had them carried down to the Shore: but as it often happens when we are in hast, several little accidents happened which made it dark before this was done & the Signal was made to un-moor. The Portuguese Watermen taking advantage of our distress insisted on most exorbitant prices for carrying them off, and even almost refused to do it at all in hopes I suppose to extort a greater sum for complying at last so that I expected nothing more than to be left behind. It is scarce possible to imagine a situation where life is not in question, more truly distressfull, to which my expectation of seeing the Ship sail away every minute added not a little. At last one more moderate than the rest, set me a price, which exorbitant as it was I catched at immediately. We whiped the things into his Boat and insisted on his carrying us off immediately; but which this would have been to little purpose, had I not luckily talked about complaining to the British Consull from whence he knew the things came. We got however on board about 9 oClock without any evil accident except breaking a Thermometer, which one of the people let fall into the Bottom of the Boat, as he was handing it up the Side.
The Ship after all, did not get under way until past 12 oClock and it was then almost quite Calm, in that My danger was not by far so great as I apprehended. At Noon Funchall bore N.½E and the Latitude Observed was 31°. 58' N.

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So many Persons have visited this Island that it may seem unnecessary for me to say anything concerning it; but as unusual Circumstances occurred to me, which I have not met with in my reading I cannot resist the temptation of committing them to Paper. I could wish much to convey a tolerable Idea of the Appearance which it has when viewed from a ship in the offing which is sketchy enough, but despair of doing it as a subject much more suitable for the Pencil than the Pen. The whole forms one stupendous Mountain composed of a great number of layers one piled one upon another, the tops of these latter being overshadowed by predigious large Okeforest trees which grow on the sides of those above them. In the Vallies formed by these Hills stand several Monasteries and the country Houses of the Merchants who reside at Funchall which being all painted which renders them very conspicuous and the Vineyards and Orchards where-with they are everywhere surrounded have a most pleasing Effect. The Scene is yet further diversified by several high craggy Cliffs over which the water continuously pours in Cascades, not a jot the less beautiful because entirely the work of Nature, and as the Eye takes the whole in at one view it forms one of the most pleasing Pictures that can well be imagined; but mostly the beauty is lost when we come to tramp over it; as it then appears at least in my opinion, neither so beautiful or agreeable as the far less diversified Meadows and Cornfields of England.
The Town of Funchall, which is the principal one of the Island and the residence of the Governor may be about 2 Miles in length and half of one in breadth. Its Streets are very narrow and not much unlike those of Plymouth. They are paved with small sharp Pebbles, which together with the steepness of those which lead in-land render very disagreeable walking to Strangers: as to the Portuguese they run along them bare-footed without the least apparent Inconvenience.
The Houses are mostly built of stone, and all those which front the sea are washed, or painted white. The ground and second floors are generally fairly extensive but above them these run up only a sort of Turret of one or two rooms on a floor, and these have 5 or six stories. The want of Glass in most of their Windows renders their appearance rather smooth to the prejudiced Eye of the English observer, but it is I believe rather a convenience than otherwise in these hot countries.
There are ten Churches in this Town, viz. that of St. Ann which is the Principal one and 9 others dedicated to St. Peter, St. Paul, St. etc. as is the Custom in London. All except the first have but very sorry Appearance either on the inside or out. The inside of the Quoir of St. Ann is an altar-piece of Carving in their way & covered with a very strong gilding of Gold. The Gates of the Quoir and Rails of the Communion Table are covered with a very thick Plating of Silver; but the other parts even of this Church are remarkable for nothing but Gothic Sculptures and clumsy paintings of Saints, Crucifixes Etc. There are in the town & neighbourhood 4 Nunneries and about as many Monasteries. As it was the fashion I went with some of our Gentlemen to visit one of the former. We were admitted no further than the Geat where two or three ordinary old sisters stood to sell Watch strings, Sword Knots, Artificial flowers, which were passed out to us through a double Grating of Iron by means of a stick with a cleft in the End and our Money went in by the same conveyance.
The Town is defended by a wall towards the Sea on which there are three Bastions viz; one at the East end and before the Customs House & another before the Governors on each side of which are six small Guns mounted. To the N.West of the Town stands St. Johns, or the Old Castle on one of these Craggy Rocks above mentioned; but it is too old and worn to be of any use. The only place of any Consequence is the New Fort on the Loo Rock, which stands a little way off into the Sea at the Western extremity of the Town where they have several heavy Cannons mounted. A Serjeant Guard is mounted at each end of the last mentioned place.
All I could learn of the Portuguese who are settled here is that the richer sort are extremely indolent and the Poorer sort, mere Slaves; and that both are rigid Roman Catholics. The principal Merchants are mostly English of which there are about 30 families settled here; but are not allowed any place of Worship.
The only article which they cultivate with much attention is the Grape of which they have four or five sorts, are all excellent of their kind. The Vines are raised from what I believe Gardeners call off-sets, which if taken from strong Vines frequently bear fruit the first year but not the second & third: the fourth they bear of Course and in Good Ground where plenty of Water can be had will stand 50 years or Upwards. The Vintage begins generally about the Middle of August and ends with September. Unfortunately for us this had been a very hot one so that the Wine was not only very dear but of an inferior quality also.
Besides Grapes Madeira possesses almost every other kind of fruit both tropical and European, with very little culture such as Pine Apples, Musk & water Mellons, Cittrons, Limes, Oranges, Lemons, Pumpkins, the Prickly Pear, Peaches Nectarines, Apricots, Pears, Plums etc. etc. They have also all the Garden Roots & Herbs common to England, together with many others which are seldom found but in Tropical Countries. They cultivate no Grain except the square-eared-bearded [indecipherable] and this only in small quantities: the Corn is trod out by Oxen; but whether or not they follow the Instructions of Moses in not Muzzling him while he is doing it, I forgot to enquire. Oxen are used here for draught: they are small & very tractable; but they have fine horses which they use entirely for riding – they are mostly brought from America.

[Page 14]
The Island produces no venomous Reptile, except a small black spider which is by some accounted so: these are mostly found about the prickly Pear Bushes: but I met with no Person who could give any instance from his own knowledge of any accident happening from their bite. They have also a very large Spider, about an Inch long and thick in proportion which they suppose to be the Tarantula, but it is perfectly harmless. The most noxious are fleas, and a very small Muskito whose sting is troublesome.
No Wheel Carriages are used here: the unevenness of the Country not admitting of it. The better sort of People use Palankeens, and those of more modest fortunes a sort of Hammock slung on Poles & carried on the shoulders of two men.
The Natives told us that the Vine is not indigenous; but that it was brought & planted here by chance: which is here so very remarkable, as there is no place, I believe, where grapes grow to greater perfection, either in taste or flavour.
English Guineas pay here to advantage as any of the Monasteries will give 21 Pistereens for them, and some of those which are out of town 22, and sometimes even 23 I am told: But Bills are best to pay for anything as a discount of 8 per cent is generally got on them, and the Merchants are fonder of them especially, if drawn on the Government, or any noted Banker. If a Person has to go from hence to the Cape of Good Hope I would particularly recommend it to him to take what Money he may want there in English Guineas & change it here to Pistereens.
The account which is given here of the discovery of the Island is pleasing enough. It may be met with in Hackluit and some other Collections of old Voyages, told in a very imperfect Manner. There in the Governor’s House here, paintings of some of the most interesting Situations of the two unfortunate Lovers who are said first to have discovered it; and, I am told, a little Chapel in the forest where the Lady’s tomb & the bones of her Lover were found.
On Computing my Observations made here I find that Mr. Kendall’s Watch gave the Longit. of the Place 12°. 50'.14"W of Plymouth, and was losing 1¾" a Day, in Mean Time. Mr. Arnolds gave its Longitude 9°. 59' . 42¾" W. of the same Place and was losing at the same rate of 56.9" a day in Mean Time. The Mean of my three Lunar Observations when reduced rather by Means of Mr. Kendall’s Watch gave its Longitude 17°. 14 2/3' from Greenwich.

Sunday August 2nd 1772

Weather
Brisk Breeze & Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Therefore Since leaving Madiera I have reduced two Observations of the Moon’s Distance from the Sun made Augst. Ye 5th & 7th. back to this Place by means of the Watch & find that the mean of them gains its Longit. 17°. 9½' W. of Greenwich. The mean of this and the Longit. resulting from the Observation made before I got there gives Longit. 17°.12 1/8' W.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. & hazy

Remarks
It was discovered that all metallic things were began now to be covered with rust, and that our Clocks and everything of the literature began to grow moldy.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Cleaned between Decks, and aired the Ship with [indecipherable] coal-Fire.

[Page 15]

Monday August 3rd. 1772

Weather
Fresh Gale & Hazy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation observed by Azimuth 15°. 50' W. Shortened sail for the Adventure.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Saw the Island of Palma, one of the Canaries, bearing W.bW. dist about 5 or six miles; hence the lat. of this island is 28°. 23’N. The Longit. by Observation 17°. 28¼‘[indecipherable]. By Mr. Kendall’s Watch it is 13.37¼W of Plymouth, & by Mr. Arnolds it is 10°.33’W. Therefore Those determinations relate to the N.E. End.

Weather
Do. Do.
Moderate & Cloudy

Remarks
The Bilge Water very offensive notwithstanding every precaution is taken to keep the Ship sweet.

Weather
Do. Hazy

Remarks
At Noon the middle of Palma about E.bS. dist. abt. 8 Lea. & the N.E. End E.N.E¼S & the S.E. End S.E.¼E hence the lat. of the middle is 27°.36’N. its Long. 17°. 59½ W. by Kited 13 [indecipherable]. The Adventure in Company.

Tuesday August 4th. 1772

Weather
Modr. & Hazy.

Remarks
Made the Signal for the Adventure to go a head
Long by D & O 17°.37’W. A little uncertain.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by
(Azimuth 14°.57’) W
(Amplit. 15.00)

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 11 Taken aback, & wore Ship: made the Signal for the Adventure to do likewise.

Weather
Do. very foggy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Saw the island of Ferra S.S.E. dist. abt. 5 or 6 Lea.

Weather
Do. Hazy

Remarks
Brought too for the Adventure, she being out of [indecipherable]
Saw the Adventure.
Made Sail.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Island of Ferro S.E.bN..
The Adventure a-stern.

[Page 16]
Wednesday August 5th 1772

Weather
Mod. & Hazy

Remarks
The Island of Ferro E.S.E.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Longit by dist D& amp;O 18°. 55½ W.

Weather
Fresh breeze & Cloudy

Remarks
Shortened sail for the Adventure
The Island of Ferro 10½N. N.B. The part here set was the high Hammer towards the South end.
Therefore By taking a mean of these settings the above mentioned Hammer on Ferro is in Lat 27°. 4½' N & Long 18°. 8¼' W from Greenwich by Observation. Mr. Kendall’s watch gave 13°. 50¾' W from Plymouth.

Weather
Modr. & Clear
Do. Hazy

Remarks
Made Sail & the Signal for the Adventure to go ahead

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Put a quantity of salt water into the Ship to sweeten it the Stench of the Bilge water being intolerable.

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds

Thursday August 6th.

Weather
Modr. Gale & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 13°. 11’ W.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

[Page 17]
Fryday August 7th. 1772

Weather
Modr. & Hazy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Longit. by dist O & D 19°.. 50’ W.
Variation by
(Azimuth 14. 39) W.
(Amplit. 14. 40)

Weather
Do. and Clear

Remarks
About ½ past 7 oClock passed the Tropic of Cancer in 19°. 31’ W. by Observation.

Weather
Do. Hazy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Cleaned & fumigated the Ship between Decks.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

Saturday 8th. August

Weather
Moderate & Cloudy

Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Fresh breeze & Cloudy
Fresh Gale & Cloudy

Remarks
N.B. The length of the Log. line has for these three days past been 50 feet to 29"; I have therefore choose rather to keeping Reckoning by course & diff of Lat. Observed.

[Page 18]
Sunday August 9th. 1772

Weather
Fresh breeze & Hazy

Remarks
Measured the Glass and Log line, found the former only 29"; Mr. Gilbert therefore marked the line 48 1/3 feet to a Knot.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 12°..2’ W.
Shortened sail for the Adventure

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Cloudy
Do. Hazy

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

Monday 10th. August 1772

Weather
Fresh Gales & hazy
Do. Do.
Modr. Breeze & hazy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 19h. AM saw the Island of Bonavista S.W.bW.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At Noon the most northerly point of Bonavista bore W.N.W. 4 or 5 Lea. The N.E. Point West, & the most Southerly Point then in sight S.W.b.S.
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 19]
Tuesday August 11th. 1772

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
At ½ past 2 oClock the North East point of Bonavista bore N.bW.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The South end of Bonavista N.W. ½W
Variation by
(by Azimuth 10 °..44’) W.
(by Amplitude 10 .. 59)
The south end of Bonavista N.b.W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
From the preceding remarks I found that the Latitude of the north end of Bonavista is 16°.. 13 2/3‘ N. of the south end 15°.. 58’. & of the most easterly point 16°’ .. 03 2/3’. The Longit. of this last Point is by Observation 22°..33’ W. Mr. Kendall’s Watch gave 18°..36’ W. of Plymouth
Shortened Sail

Weather
Do. & thick with Rain, Do.

Remarks
Brought too.

Weather
Do. Hazy

Remarks
Clearing up a little, the Island of Mayo was seen bearing West b. South.
At 17h. made sail; the north point of the Island of Mayo lay West.
At 18h. ¾ the north end of Mayo bore N.W.bN & the highest Hummock W.bN
At 19h. the North point was just shutting in with the land & bore N.N.W. ½W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 20h. ½ the great Hummock was in one with the most northerly one & bore due North by compass.
At 22h. 10' the South End of Mayo bore N.N.W ½ W.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
The South end of Mayo N N. & the Southernmost Part of St. Jago W.b S½S.

Wednesday August 12th. 1772

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
At 3 oClock anchored in the Bay of Porto Raya in 8 fathoms sandy Ground: the East point of the bay bearing E.bS. the West point S.W.½W. the outer point of the small island W.b.S½S. & the inner point W.N.W. The Fort bore N.W.½N.
Therefore I make the situation of this Bay by my several Accts. as follows:
Course: S. 62°W., Dist. 12, S. 5.7, W. 10.6, Latit. 14°. 54' 1/3 N., Latit Observ. 14°. 53 7/8' N., Long. made, 19°. 44' W., Long. by K, 19°. 20¾' W., Long. by A. 13°. 26' W., Longit. in. 24°. 04' W., Longit. observed 23°. 40' W.

From the remarks made this Monday I have found that the North End of Mayo is in latitude 15°.. 15½N. the great Hummock in Latitude 15°12 4/5 N. and the South end in Latitude 11°.. 9’ N. Their several Longitudes as deduced from my Observations are 22°.. 51 2/3 W. 22Deg; .. 32 ½ W. and 22°.. 58 2/3 W. Mr. Kendall’s watch gave 17°54 2/3’ 18°.. 55 ½ ‘ 19°.. 01 1/5 respectively West of Plymouth.

In going from the Island of Mayo we were near being deceived by a small Bay on the Island of St. Jago, so we stood for it, thinking it to be the Bay of Porto Raya, which may easily be done as they have much the same appearance; however the mistake was discovered time enough to prevent any ill consequences. This Bay lies a little to the East of Porto Raya. The Bay of Porto Raya does not begin to open until it is brought to bear West, but the breaking of the Sea over some sunken Rocks which lie of its west point may be seen when bearing W ½ S. This point is low and the abovementioned Rocks extend themselves from it to about a cable’s length, and are steep to having 10 fathoms water almost close to where the sea Breaks. The east point is a cliff of a moderate height round which Ships may pass in 14 fathoms within little more then a Cable’s length. The land to north-east of this is hilly the tops of which are mostly covered with Clouds.

In sailing into this Bay I am told it will be most advisable to bring the Fort to bear N.W.bW. and then stand right in, keeping the Fort in that direction, untill a high cliff which is on the west side of the Bay is on with the south end of a small Island which lies near that side of it, and then Anchor in 8 or 9 fathoms. If the wind should happen to be southerly Ships may work in under guidance of their Lead, as the soundings are very regular, and anchor as above.

[Page 20]
This Bay, between the east shore, and the above mentioned Island is more than 500 fathoms across and as this is the only place where large ships can anchor with any degree of safety, it is necessary to be very cautious in the choice of a berth. Small ones may indeed run farther in, and even Anchor between the Island and Fort where they are more sheltered from the Sea, but it may be difficult, especially at some seasons of the year, to get out. On the whole, although we did, and it is very possible others may go farther in than has been directed above, yet the Governour assured us it was not so well, and that ships had happened misfortunes by doing so. It is a place where, on many accounts, a carefull seaman would not chuse to lie long; but the unhealthyness of the other Ports, makes most ships who find it necessary to visit the Island put up with this.

The Town of St. Jago, is, I believe, not only the capital of this Island but likewise of all the Portuguese settlements on the Coast of Africa, and of course the Governour General’s chief residence; but he frequently quits it, on account of it’s an unhealthy site, for other places, and accordingly we now found him at Porto Praya, and as I took a turn on the shore to look round for a few hours, I had the very singular honour of being introduced to Don Joachim Salarna Saldanha de Lobos, Governour General of all his most faithfull Majesty’s Dominions on the Coast of Africa, as one of his Britannic Majesty’s learned astronomers.

Whilst we were waiting the General's leasure I chanced to open a very elegantly bound book which lay on the sopha beside me & was a little surprised to find it the 2nd. Vol. of the G. Edit. of M. De La Lande’s Astronomy. As I could not conceive how so modern a Book on that Subject could get here unless some person amongst them was not only a lover, but even a tolerably proficient in the science, I took the Liberty to make some enquiries concerning its owner & was told that it belonged to a gentleman in the next Room who had been left behind by the Two French Ships who carried out M. La Ray’s Time Keepers on Nyal. That the two Astronomers of which this was one, had an observatory some time on the little Island in the Bay, and that the Ships had been gone near two months, I should have been very happy to have had an interview with this Gentleman, but could not obtain it.

At Noon I observed the Sun’s Meridian Altitude 39°.. 22 ¼ on the fourth meridian and from thence deduced the Latitude of the Place 14°.. 53’ N.

13th. Went on Shore and measured the length of the small Island mentioned above, which is very level: I measured it both ways, and differed only 10 links of the Gunter’s Chain. I set this line with the Azimuth Compass both ways, whilst Capt. Cook took the angles subtended by the several points of the Bay from each station, with my Sextant from which Data the annexed draught of the Bay is made. I also found the Tide rise & fall about 3 feet, and that it was high water about an hour before noon. I could have wished to have done this with much greater accuracy than the above numbers have any pretence to but have not opportunity. I observed with great care the Sun’s Meridian Altitude and found it to be 89 ..02¼ and from thence compute the Latitude 16°.. 54½’N. I have been exceeding carefull in making of this observation because M. Dapres de Mannevillette in his Memoire sur la Navigation etc. says “I also have observed in this Road, and found the Latitude to be 14°’ .. 42’N. The difference between us is too neat for both to be good observers. I have not however the least reason to be satisfied with my observations: moreover Capt. Cook and some of the officers observed today also made it nearly the same as I do.

I would willingly do my uttermost to inform future navigators what may be expected at the several places which I may visit: But I have had very little opportunity of gaining any of that sort here. We got some few horses Cattle, Hogs, Goats, and a good number of Fowls; and were told that if we could stay until the country People came down that we might have plenty of these and also Sheep, Turkeys, Guinea Hens etc. The fruits are Bananas, Pine Apples, Coconuts, Oranges, Lemons & Grapes besides many others common to England & other European countries. We got no Grains or Roots of any sort but whether this was because the Island produces none or that the natives neglected or had not time to bring them down I could not learn.

The best articles for purchasing these things are Cloaths and black ones are more acceptable than others. Pewter or brass spoons & knives are also very acceptable. English money pays here to great disadvantage: nor are the Natives I am told fond of it or any other, and the reason is said to be that the Governour claims a certain part of all Coin brought into the Island: It is certain they are much fonder of trucking for the articles mentioned above. But if this be the Case it must

[Page 21]
acknowledged that Don Joachim was extremely civil in this respect since he expressly gave us leave to carry on shore any articles of truck which might be acceptable to the Natives or in any ways facilitate our commerce with them.

But if I had little opportunity to make remarks of the above nature much more may it be expected that I can say nothing of the Nature of the Inhabitants their Government etc. Indeed all I know of them is that they are Negros and subject to the King of Portugal:-

The Water here is but scarce, and not very good either, and what is a great addition to these two great defects. Very bad to get on board on account of the prodigious Surf which every where sets in on the shores of this Bay. It is drawn out of a well which lies just beyond the Beach to the S.W. of the Fort and it seldom happens that more than 4 or 5 Tuns can be got in a Day beside what is fetched away by the Inhabitants. There is another well a little further up the Valley where I am told the Water is better: but it was dry when we went there.

Therefore It may not be amiss to observe that the Longit of Porto Praya, put down bore results from taking the Mean of three days observations before we arrived there and reducing them to the Place by means of Mr. Kendall’s Watch which I have reason to think is a much surer way than doing it by the Dead Reckoning. Since leaving the Place I have deduced its Longitude from two very good observations made on the 22nd. & 23rd. of August making use of Mr. Kendall’s Watch in these also & find that the Mean of them gives 22°. 56’ W and the mean of the two is 23°. 18’ W. which I flatter myself is near the truth. However not to depend entirely on them in preference to the Watch, which it must be owned has some title to our confidence, we may take the mean of this last and the Longitude shewn by it, which will be found 23°29¾’ W. I here suppose that the Longitude of Drake’s Island in Plymouth Sound is 4°.. 20’ W.

Chart of Porto Praya

[Page 22]
Friday August ye 14th. 1772

Weather
Moderate Wind & Clear
Do. do.

Remarks
Completed the Watering

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Weighed & made Sail
Porto Praya N.N.W dist 4 Miles

Weather
Do. Do.
Brisk Wind & Squally with Rain
Do. Do.

Remarks
Stowed the Anchor, cleaned the ship & lighter between Decks

Weather
Moderate Wind & Rain

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

Saturday August ye 15th. 1772

Weather
Brisk Wind and Rain
Do. Do.
Moderate Wind & Showers
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Lost here the N.E. Trade Wind; which veered round by the East to the South East without flattening the Calm as I suppose was usual, or even abating much of its force.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Hazy
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

[Page 23]
Sunday August 16th. 1772

Weather
Moderate wind & Hazy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Tacked & bore down to the Adventure

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. with rain
Do. Do.
Do. Hazy
Brisk breeze & Cloudy with rain

Monday August 17th.

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Backed the Mizen Topsail for the Adventure

Weather
Do. Do.
Little wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Cleaned between Decks, & amp lighted fires there to Air the Ship.

Weather
Do. & very Hazy

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

[Page 24]
Tuesday August 18th. 1772

Weather
Light Airs & Hazy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 9°. 6 W’

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Long. observed by dist: O & D 19°. 16¼‘ W.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. Do. with rain

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

Wednesday August 19th.1772

Weather
Moderate breeze & Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Henry Smock, Carpenter being at work over the side fell off the grating & was drowned.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Squally with rain
Moderate & Cloudy
Squally with heavy rain

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

[Page 25]
Thursday August 20th.1772

Weather
Little Wind & Rain
Do. Heavy Rain

Remarks
Spread the Quarter Deck awning & filled 7 Casks with rain water

Weather
Ditto Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Calm & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. with Rain
Squally & Rain
Modr. & Hazy

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

Friday August 21st. 1772

Weather
Fresh Gale & Cloudy with rain
Do. Do.
Squally with rain
Do. Do.
Fresh Gale & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

[Page 26]
Saturday August 22nd. 1772

Weather
Moderate & Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Backed the Mizen Topsail 4 Hours for the Adventure

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Longit. Observed by Dist: O & D 16°40¼‘ W.
Backed the Mizen Topsail 3 hours for the Adventure

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure almost Hull down

Sunday August 23rd.1772

Weather
Moderate & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Longit. observed by a single observed 14°. 55’ W.
Do. A mean of 4 Do. 14.59 W.

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
This Forenoon distilled some fresh water from Salt .
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 27]
Monday August 24th. 1772

Weather
Little wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Worked the Still the whole Afternoon which yielded about 3 Gallons in an hour, but the water rather brackish – I suppose through some mismanagement.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. thin clouds

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

Tuesday August 25th. 1772

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 22h. shortened Sail for the Adventure & made the signal for her to go a head.
Distilled more fresh water from salt.

Weather
Do. & hazy with rain

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

[Page 28]
Wednesday August 26th. 1772

Weather
Moderate & Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Spake with Capt. Furneaux, who informed us that Mr. Lambright, one of his Young Gentlemen died a few days ago of a cold which he got in St. Jago.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do.
Do. thin Clouds

Remarks
Cleaned and aired between Decks.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Thursday August 27th. 1772.

Weather
Moderate wind & thin Clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 13 °.28½‘W
Backed the Mizen Topsail for the Adventure

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 13°.33’W
Saw some Man-of-War Birds

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Distilled about 4 Gallons of very good tasted water from Salt in about three hours.

Weather
Do. Clear Weather

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 29]
Friday August 28th. 1772

Weather
Moderate wind & clear
Do. & flying Clouds

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 13°. 59’W

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 14°.13’W
Saw a Gannet & a Man-of- War Bird

Weather
Do. & thin Clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

Saturday August 29th. 1772

Weather
Moderate wind & thin Clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
Backed the Mizen Topsail
Bore down to the Adventure

Weather
Do. & flying Clouds
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Saw several Sherewaters

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

[Page 30]
Sunday August 30th. 1772

Weather
Moderate & Cloudy

Do. Do.
Do. thin Clouds

Remarks
Bore down to the Adventure.
Variation by Azimuth 14°. 57½‘W
Went on board the Adventure and compared Mr. Kendall’s watch with Mr. Arnold’s (No. 4).
The former was 2’.56½“ faster than the latter.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Clear

Remarks
Tacked. The Adventure in Company.

Monday August 31st. 1772

Weather
Little wind & clear
Do. Hazy
Do. Clear
Do. Flying clouds
Do. thin clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
It may not be amiss to observe that in going along the S.W. coast of Africa, I generally found the Ship to the Eastward of what I could give her by the Log. about 20 Miles a day and sometimes near thirty. So great a disagreement lead me often to suspect Mr. Kendall’s Watch, which had hitherto gone really well: yet as often as I got an Observation of the Moon’s distance from the Sun had the satisfaction to find that they agreed very well; and now am fully convinced that a Current sits nearly due East along the Coast at the rate of about a Mile an hour and therefore all Ships which are not so well provided for determining their Longitude as I am will do well to make this allowance. I am the more easily lead to think this remark will not be judged important as currents which set directly east or west are not so easily detected by the generality of Seamen as those set in other directions.
Variation by Azimuth 15°. 52½’W

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 31]
Tuesday Sept. 1st. 1772

Weather
Little wind & clear

Remarks
Longit. observed 5°. 13’W. doubtfull

Weather
Do. Cloudy Do.

Remarks
Bore down to the Adventure.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
N.B. In order to make the Reckoning agree with Observation I have supposed a Current to set S. E.bE. one Mile an hour.
The Adventure in Company

Wednesday Sept. 2nd. 1772

Weather
Modr. & Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Bore down to the Adventure.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure astern

[Page 32]
Thursday Sept. 3rd 1772

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Backed the Mizen Topsail for the Adventure
Filled the Mizen Topsail

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 12°. 14½‘ W.

Weather
Do. Hazy Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Friday Sept. 4th. 1772

Weather
Little wind & clear

Remarks
Shortened Sail for the Adventure

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Longit. observed by dist. D & O 9°. 45½‘ W.
Bore down to the Adventure
Variation by Azimuth 15.’ 11½‘ W

Weather
Do. thin Clouds
Do. Flying Clouds
Do. Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
This forenoon hoisted out the Boat to try the Current which we found to set N.bE by Compass about ½ of a Knot.
The thermometer stood at 75½ in the Air at 74 in the water the surface and at 66 when drawn up from a depth of 85 fathm. where it had lain 20 Minutes: we were 7½ [indecipherable] it up.

Weather
Do. thin Clouds

Remarks
Sounded with 240 fathm. & found no ground.

[Page 33]
Saturday Sept. 5th. 1772

Weather
Little wind & clear
Do. Do.

Remarks
Longit. observed 9°. 48’ W

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Passed through a stoney ripling of the Tyde.

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy

Do. Do.

Do. Do.

Remarks
The Still at work
Cleaned and put fire between decks.

Weather
Do. thin Clouds

Remarks
The Adventure Astern.

Sunday Sept. 6th. 1772

Weather
Moderate & thin Clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
Longit. observed 8°. 9½‘ W
Bore down to the Adventure.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Cloudy
Do. thick Clouds

Remarks
The Still at work.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure made the signal for seeing a Sail in the N.E. Quarter.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 34]

Monday Sept. 7th. 1772

Weather
Moderate breeze & Cloudy

Remarks
Distilled 31 Galls. of water in eleven hours.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. Flying clouds
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Crossed the Equator in Longit. 7°. 34½‘ W. by dist. D a Antares in 8°. 34½‘ W by dist. D & O on the 5th; in 7°. 58½‘ W. by the observat. of the 6th. or in 4°. 12’ W. from Plymouth by Mr. Kendall’s Watch.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 14°. 13’ W.
Longit. by dist D’a Antarea 7°. 40’ W.
Distilled 13 Galls. of water in 4 hours

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Tuesday Sept. 8th. 1772

Weather
Moderate wind & Clear
Do. Do.

Remarks
Brought too main topsail to the mast.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Longit. observed D Antares 9°. 14½‘ W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

[Page 35]
Wednesday Sept. 9th. 1772

Weather
Modr. Breeze & Clear
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 12 2/3 °. W.
Bore down to the Adventure.

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds
Do. Do.
Do. thin Clouds
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Thursday Sept.10th. 1772

Weather
Moderate breeze & Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Bore down to the Adventure
Variation by Azimuth

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. thin Clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 12°. 32’ W.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Clear

Remarks
The Adventure astern

[Page 36]
Friday Sept. 11th. 1772

Weather
Moderate & Clear

Remarks
Remeasured the Log. line & amp;. half-minute glass & made them 48¼ feet to 29”.

Weather
Do. thin Clouds

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 11°. 44’) W.
- by Amplit. - 11°. 40’)

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Cleaned & fumigated between decks.

Weather
Do. thin Clouds

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

Saturday Sept. 12th. 1772

Weather
Moderate & thin Clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
Shortened sail for the Adventure

Weather
Do. Flying clouds

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 12°. 23’ W.
Bore down to the Adventure.
Longit. by dist D’a Aquila 14°. 52¾‘ at 19h.
N.B. This observation was rendered a little uncertain by taking the wrong limb of the D through mistake.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Backed the Mizen Topsail for the Adventure

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Filled the Mizen Topsail.
Longit. observed D’a Aldeb. 14°. 14¾‘ W. at 19h.
Variation by Azimuth 12°. 26’ W.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
The Adventure astern

[Page 37]

Sunday Sept.13th. 1772

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Hitherto I have always deduced the Long. by last observation by allowing what the Log gave but as I find that Mr. Kendall’s Watch is infinitely more to be depended on I shall in future deduce it by allowing what is shewn by that.
Variation by Azimuth 9°. 53’ W.
Bore down to the Adventure.

Weather
Do. thin Clouds
Do. Flying Clouds
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Brought too. Went on board the Adventure to inspect the Watches.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

Monday Sept. 14th. 1772

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy
Do. thin Clouds

Remarks
Brought too & sent the boat on board the Adventure with Capt. Furneaux.
Variation by Azimuth

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Bore down to the Adventure

Weather
Do. Do.
Squally
Do. Do.

Remarks
Carried away the Gib Stay & Spliced it again.

Weather
Do. thin Clouds

Remarks
The Adventure Astern: shortened sail for her.

[Page 38]
Tuesday Sept. 15th. 1772

Weather
Moderate breeze & Cloudy

Do. Do.

Remarks
Backed the Mizen Topsail for the Adventure

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Filled the Mizen Topsail

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Squally & Do.

Remarks
Backed the Mizen Topsail for the Adventure
Filled the mizen Topsail

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure astern: made the Signal for her to get ahead.

Wednesday Sept. 16th. 1772

Weather
Modr. Breeze & Clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(7. 17) W.
(7. 35)
Backed the Mizen Topsail for the Adventure

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Filled the Mizen Topsail.

Weather
Do. Flying clouds & Squally
Do. Do.

Remarks
Backed the Mizen Topsail.
Filled the Mizen Topsail.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. thin Clouds

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

[Page 39]
Thursday Sept. 17th.1772

Weather
Fresh breeze & Squally & Clouds

Remarks
Made the Signal for the Adventure to make more sail & half an hour afterwards repeated the same.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Longit. observed by dist D a O 17°. 50’) W.
Do. 17.55½)

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

Friday Sept. 18th. 1772

Weather
Fresh breeze & Squally with rain at times
Do. Do.

Remarks
Backed the Mizen Top Sail
Filled the Mizen Top Sail

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Set the Top mast Rigging up.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

[Page 40]
Saturday Sept. 19th. 1772

Weather
Brisk breeze & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. very squally
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Lowered down the Topsail for the Adventure to come up with us.
Longit. by dist O & D 19°. 54’ W.

Weather
Do. & Clear at times

Remarks
Longit. by dist O a D 20°. 12’ W.
Cleared and lighted Charcoal fire between Decks.

Weather
Do. thin Clouds

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Sunday Sept. 20th. 1772

Weather
Moderate wind & thin Clouds

Remarks
Set more sail.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation
(by Azimuth 5°. 7’
(by Amplitude 4 . 3 W.

Weather
Do. Cloudy with rain
Do. Do. Squally
Do. Do.

Brisk breeze & Cloudy

Remarks
Made the signal & fired a Gun for the Adventure to make more sail.

Weather
Do. thin Clouds

[Page 41]
Monday Sept 21st. 1772

Weather
Moderate winds thin Cloud
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. & Flying Cloud

Remarks
Therefore It is remarkable that in running along the N. to Trade winds on the north side of the line we found them always uniform and steady, with very fine weather; not quite clear; yet not so cloudy but that we could almost always observe the sun's Altitude: other more delicate observations could not indeed be often made to advantage as the heavens were almost always covered with a very thin gray cloud. On the contrary since we have crossed the line and got the south east Trades, we have found them very unequal blowing in strong gusts and attended with squalls of rain, the heavens being alternately clear & covered with very thick Clouds. I would willingly ascribe the difference to the influence of the approaching Equinox as the seasons are generally attended with squally weather in higher Latitudes: but then this seldom happens till those seasons are past. & it especially calm enough before.
Variation by Azim 3°. 47’ W.

Weather
Do. thin Clouds

Remarks
Long observed dist O a’ D 21. 12¼W.
Ditto by Mr. Clark 2nd. Lieut. 21. 8 ½ W.
By Mr. Gilbert 21°.19’ W
By Mr. F. Nargill 21°14’ W

Tuesday Sept. 22nd. 1772

Weather
Moderate wind & thin Cloud
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Brought too for the Adventure
Variation by Amplitude 3°. 43’ W.

Weather
Do. thin Clouds
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Squally with rain
Little wind & Cloudy
Moderate wind & Cloudy

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 42]
Wednesday Sept. 23rd. 1772

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 3°. 14’ W

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Made the Signal for the Adventure to make more sail.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

Thursday Sept 24th. 1772

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy
Do. thin Clouds
Do. Do.
Do. Flying Clouds
Squally with rain
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. thin Clouds

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 43]
Friday Sept. 25th. 1772

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy

Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azim.
(By Gregory’s Compass 2. 8
(By one of Knight’s 2.19 W.

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Saturday Sept. 26th. 1772

Weather
Light breeze & fine wr.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 0°. 39’ W

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Went on board the Adventure and found that Mr. Kendall’s watch 7’ 47½“ before No. 1 made by Mr. Arnold. I afterwards in company with Mr. Bayley found that the Thermomr. [indecipherable] 72½ in open air at 70 in the water, at the surface and at 68, 80 fathoms below it. The Thermomr. Lay at the bottom 15 minutes, & we were 7' drawing it apart.

[Page 44]

Sunday Sept. 27th. 1772
Weather
Little wind fair weather

Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation
(By Azimuth 2°. 5’
(By Amplitude 1. 15 W.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Amplitude 1°. 11’ W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure made the Signal for seeing a Sail which we soon discovered to the Southward standing the same way that we were: still we shortened sail with the intention to speak with the Stranger & directed the Adventure to go a head.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure a-head of us.

Monday Sept. 28th. 1772

Weather
Little wind & fine Weather

Remarks
Made sail, the Stranger proving to be a Dutchman.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azim 2°. 36½‘ W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Stranger out of sight to windward

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

[Page 45]
Tuesday Sept. 29th. 1772

Weather
Brisk wind & thin Clouds
Do. & Flying Clouds
Do. Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. & thick Clouds
Do. & very Hazey

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

Wednesday Sept. 30th 1772

Weather
Brisk breeze & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Flying Clouds
Do. Do.
Do. Rain

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 3°. 14 2/3’ W.

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

[Page 46]

Thursday October Ye.1st. 1772

Weather
Moderate breeze & thin Clouds
Do. & Flying Clouds

Remarks
Longit. observed
(By Ramsden’s Qdt. 17°. 45’
(By Mr. Smiths Mate 17. 42
(By Mr. Clerkes 18.3 W.
I also observed with Dolland’s using the Silvered part of the Index
Glass: but it did not agree with these.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation
(By Azim. 2°. '
(By Amplit. 3. 28 W.

Friday Octr. Ye 2nd. 1772

Weather
Modr. & Flying clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
Longit. observed by dist: O a' D 16°. 39½‘ W.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. thick Clouds
Do. thin Clouds

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 47]
Saturday Oct. Ye 3rd. 1772

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
Long. by dist Oa’ D
(W. Wales15°. 39’
(Mr. Clerk 15. 38 1/3
(Mr. Burn 15. 27¼ W.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure astern; made the Signal, and fired a Gun for her to make more sail.

Sunday Oct. Ye. 4th. 1772

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy

Remarks
A great Swell from the South West.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. & drizzling Rain
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. very Hazy

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 48]
Monday Oct. Ye 5th. 1772

Weather
Modr. Wind & Cloudy
Do. & Flying Clouds

Remarks
(Longit by Dist. O a’ D 11°. 09 1/3’ W.

Alt. O's L.L. 9°.11 5/9’)
Azim O's Centr. N. [indecipherable] 33½W)
Variation 6°. 13’ W.

Weather
Do. & Squally with rain
Do. Do.
Do. Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Saw Birds

Weather
Do. & Light Cloud

Remarks
The Adventure near us.

Tuesday Oct. ye 6th. 1772

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Many Birds

Weather
Do. Do. & rain
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. very hazy & squally

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 49]
Wednesday Oct. Ye 7th. 1772

Weather
Squally & unsettled
Do.
Do.
Brisk wind & Squally
Do. Rain
Do. Do.
Do. Hazy

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Thursday Oct. Ye 8th. 1772

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. Hazy
Do. Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. and very Hazy

Remarks
Saw Birds

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 50]
On Board His Majesty’s Sloop Resolution

Remarks 9 Oct. 9th. 1772

Weather
Brisk wind & Squally

Do. very Hazy

Do. Do.

Do. Do.

Do. with showers

Do. & Cloudy

Remarks
Saw a large Bird of the Gull kind

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure astern

Saturday Oct. Ye 10th. 1772

Weather
Moderate & hazy

Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 8°. 30½‘ W
Amplit 9°. 33½‘W

Weather
Do. & very clear

Remarks
Longit. by D’a [symbol] Aquila 6°. 52½‘ W at 19h.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. very Hazy

Remarks
Vast Numbers of Pintaden Birds about & many of them were caught with Hooks & lines.

Weather
Do. Clear

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

[Page 51]
Sunday Oct. Ye 11th. 1772

Weather
Moderate wind & clear
Do. Do.

Remarks
Long by Lunar Eclipse 6°. 30’ W.
D’a [symbol] Aquila 5.. 51’)
D’a Aldebaum 6..35 ½) W.
Variation by Azimuth 8°. 30’ W.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Long by D’a [symbol] Aquila 5°. 33½’)
D’a Aldebaum 6 .. 18½’) W.
Hoisted out the boats, and examined the Currents but could not perceive there were any. My thermometer stood at 60 ½ in open air, at 59 in the water at the Surface; and at 57 when 100 fathoms below it The Thermometer lay at that depth 20’ & we were 6’ in drawing it up. A Thermometer of Mr. Fosters in a Tin Case stood at 59 in the water at ye Surface, & at 58 when drawn up from 100 fathoms.

Monday Oct. Ye 12th. 1772

Weather
Light Airs & Clear

Remarks
Went on board the Adventure & found that Mr. Arnold’s Watch (No. 1) was 10’. 35½“ slower than Mr. Kendall’s

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 8°.30¼‘ W

Weather
Do. Hazy
Do. Do.
Do. Cloudy
Do. Do.

[Page 52]
Tuesday Oct. 13th. 1772

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Very Squally & thick
Do. Do.
Squally and Flying Clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure near us.

Wednesday Oct. 14th. 1772

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Cloudy
Do. Clear
Do. Do.

Remarks
Passed by several pieces of Sea Weed

[Page 53]
Thursday Octr. 15th.1772

Weather
Mod. Wind & thin Clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
Shortened sail for the Adventure.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Brisk wind Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
Passed much sea-weed & saw many Pintado Birds.

Weather
Do. very Foggy

Remarks
The Adventure to Wind-wards.

Friday 0ctr. 16th. 1772

Weather
Brisk wind & very hazy
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Saw a Sail to the Southward.
The Stranger hoisted Dutch Colours.

Weather
Little wind with rain

Remarks
The Water much discoloured, as if we were in or near Soundings.

Weather
Moderate wind Do.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
The Dutchman still in sight: ye west of us.

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
Longit by Dist O a’D 4°7½‘ E.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company, & the Dutch ship yet in Sight.

[Page 54]

Saturday Oct. 17th. 1772

Weather
Modr. Wind & Cloudy
Do. and Flying Clouds

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 14°. 9½‘ W.

Weather
Do. and very Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Dutch Ship again to ye westward.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
The Adventure to the Northward of us.

Sunday Oct. 18th. 1772

Weather
Modr. Wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. and small rain
Do. Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure near us & the Dutch Ship in sight.

[Page 55]

Monday Oct. 19th. 1772

Weather
Little wind & Cloudy
Do. Clear

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth (15°. 19½‘)
15.. 23) W.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. and Flying Clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
Longit by (D’a Aldab. 8°. 16½‘)
(D’a O 7.. 47½‘) E.
Do. Do. 7.. 48¾ E
Bore down to the Adventure went on board her & found that Mr. Arnold’s Watch, No. 3 was 12’. 50¼“ forward than Mr. Kendall’s.

Weather
Do. and Clear

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Tuesday Oct. 20th. 1772

Weather
Little wind and Clear
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth16°.56½‘ W.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 14°. 59’ W.
Longit. by Dist D’a O 8°. 50 5/8 E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

[Page 56]
Wednesday Octr. 21st. 1772

Weather
Modr. Wind and Clear
Do. and thin Clouds

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 15°. 56’ W

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Drizzling rain
Do. Do.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

Thursday Octr. 22nd. 1772

Weather
Modr. Wind & hazy
Do. Cloudy
Do. Do.
Very little wind Do.
Calm Do.
Do. and very hazy
Do. Foggy

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

[Page 57]
Friday Octr. 23rd. 1772

Weather
Little Wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Modr. Wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

Saturday Octr. 24th. 1772

Weather
Brisk wind & Clear
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Cloudy
Do. & very hazy
Do. & Cloudy

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

[Page 58]
Sunday Octr. 25th. 1772

Weather
Modr. & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

Monday Octr. 26th 1772

Weather
Modr. Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Sounded and found no ground with 210 fathms.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 20°. 57’ W.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 21°. 26½‘ W.

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
A heavy Swell from the Eastward.

Weather
Do. Hazey

Remarks
The Adventure to Windward.

[Page 59]

Tuesday Octr. 27th. 1772

Weather
Modr. Wind & hazey
Do. Do.

Remarks
Made the Signal and fired a Gun for the Adventure to come under our stern.
Variation by Azimuth 21°. 36’ W.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. & Clear
Little wind Do.

Remarks
Sounded and found no Ground with 200 fathoms.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. thin Clouds

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

Wednesday Octr. 28th. 1772

Weather
Modr. Wind & Cloudy
Less wind Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 21°. 30’ W.

Weather
Little wind Do.

Remarks
Tried soundings: no ground with 200 fathoms.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Modr. Wind Do.

Remarks
All Hands Employed looking out for the Land

Weather
Squally & drizzling Rain at times

Remarks
The Adventure Astern.

[Page 60]

Thursday Octr. 29th. 1772

Weather
Brisk breeze & Cloudy
Less wind Do.

Remarks
Made the Signal for seeing Land, as did the Adventure, almost in the same Instant. It bore S.E.bS. to S.E.bE.¾E. The Table Mountain bore S. E.¾E.

Weather
Modr. Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
The West Point of Table Bay S.E.bS. dist about 4 leagues, & the south point of Robbin, or Penguin Island E.b.S.½S. the most southerly point S.b.W. and the most northerly land in view N.N.E: soundings 50 fathoms.

Weather
Squally & much rain
Modr. Cloudy
Do. Flying clouds

Remarks
This Evening we amused ourselves enquiring into the Cause of a very odd Phenomenon. The Sea all round the Ship, and as far as we could see was perfectly illuminated by the Number & brightness of those shining particles which are especially seen in a ship’s wake. We took up several Buckets full of the water & found it full of small Insects which when we laid on a piece of paper were much like a bit of Jelly; but excepting this the Water was perfectly clear. When the Water was at rest in the Buckets, it ceased to illuminate; but as soon as it was disturbed it became as bright as that in the Sea.
About 19th. came to an Anchor in Table Bay, and moved with a Cable each way. Green Point bearing N.W.bN. stood a mile distant and the Church S.W.bW.; and soon after the Adventure came to an Anchor between us & the Town.

Weather
Do. Clear

Remarks
I make the situation of the Ship at Anchor as follows.

Friday Octr. 30th. 1772 P.M. Went on shore in Company with Mr. Bayley to find out the place where Messers Moore & Dixon Observ’d and agreed with the Owner of the ground, Mynheer Peter [indecipherable] for the use of it as long as we might have Occasion: and in the Evening came again on board, and in the Morning, got on shore the Observation Instruments & Fresh wind & cloudy weather with rain at times. Camino Franck’s ship from the Isles of France.

31. P.M. Employed in getting the things up from the Warf to Mr. Leamond & setting up the Scales. A.M. set up one of the Clocks & finish setting up the Observation. Fresh wind and cloudy with squalls of rain at times.

November 1st. Adjusted and got ready the Quadrant for observing and Provided a Proper Stand for the vaine dug a hole for the Transit Instruments put together the stand for the ditto and got it ready at right angles to the Meridian. Fresh wind at N.W. with Flying Clouds & rain at times. Observed a Dutch East Indiaman in the Bay from Middleburg who had been four months in his Passage in which time she had buried 150 of her men and had when she came in about 60 others sick.

2.Got the stand for the transit instruments fixed, also got up the other Clock and at Noon on Tuesday endeavoured to get the instruments into the Meridian by the same Transit. This day we were Informed that the Frenchman had brought advice that two French ships having sailed directly South from Mauritius on discoverie and that they had met with land at 48°. South: that they had traced the Coast for 60 Leagues and then were blown off from it and that a ship was gone to Europe with an account of this discovery.

[Page 61]
Nov. 3rd. Employ’d in making Observations & Compleating the Observation Instruments. Moderate breeze from the N.E. and cloudy for the most part. Arivd in the bay another Dutch East Indiaman from Zealand. She has been 22 weeks on her passage had buried 41 men and had 44 sick.

4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14
Employ’d making Various Observations on the shore (viz. Observation Book). The wind and weather during this time very strong also; being sometimes dead calm and in an hour or two blowing in such violent Gusts that it was with the utmost difficulty that we presented the two Observations from being blown away. So the main time the State of Air was every bit as uncertain being sometimes either clear or cloudy for more than two or three hours at a time. This Uncertainty of weather conceive is entirely owing to the Town being situated so near the foot of Table Mountain which by its height attracts to itself great quantities of moist Vapours and these are dispersed again every two or three hours by the strong Gales which blow from them in every direction. It is not uncommon to see the Top of this Mountain, alternately clear or covered with thick clouds five or six time in a day.

15. Cloudy weather with rain at times; the wind moist from the Westward to day Capt. Cook told me it was necessary for me to have everything on board the ship by Tuesday as he expected being ready to sail by that time.

16. Took down the Observation Instruments, packed them up and in the Evening the Capt. sent boats to Carry them on board the ship. I sat in the stern with one watch on each side of me: both of which were going when we put off from the shore: I laying the Boat alongside of the Ship the person who atended it let it strike yet not so hard as to give me any Apprehension at the time; however when I got on board the ship I found that Mr. Arnold’s watch had stopped for which I am not able to assign any reason if it was not caused by the above mentioned Strokes of the Boat against the ship’s side. In the Morning Cloudy & drizzling rain at times but a afterwards very fine the wind moderate from the N.W.

17, 18, 19
Employ’d in transcribing the Observations, Making Computations or wrighting Letters. The Weather as above and winds Variable from all round the Compass.

20, 21
Employ’d along with Mr. Gilbert the Master sounding and surveying the Bay and Penguin Island. The Weather mostly Cloudy with moderate breeze N.W. About 16h. the Signal was made to Unmoor, which was done by 19h. by 20h. we had hove short on the other Anchor to ½ a Cable & got everything ready to weigh and sail from this Agreeable place.
N.B. I find from my Observations that Mr. Kendall’s watch was 1h.30’50.3” to slow for mean time on Nov.14th. 1772 and that it was gaining at the rate of 1” 26’ per day on mean Time which is 1”.825’ per day faster than its rate at Greenwich viz. loosing 0".625' per day. I shall Therefore for the future suppose that this watch goes [indecipherable] mean Time for it is not far from the Mean of the two and agrees well with the Mean rate of it [indecipherable] from England to the Cape. I find also that Mr. Arnold’s [indecipherable] 4h.12’3½” too slow for Mean Time & was loosing at the rate of 1'.30" [indecipherable].

[Page 62]
Sunday Novr. 22nd. 1772

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Weighed & sailed out of Table Bay.

Weather
Do. Flying clouds
Brisk breeze & Cloudy

Remarks
At 7 oClock the Cape Town bore S.S.E. dist 4 or 5 Miles
At 8 oClock the most southerly land in sight bore S.W.bW. and Penguin Island N.N.E.

Weather
Do. Do. Squally
Squally with rain
Fresh breeze & Clear

Remarks
Set the still to work.

Weather
Do. Squally

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Monday Novr. 23rd. 1772

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Bore down to the Adventure.

Weather
Modr. & Clear

Remarks
The Ship’s Company were now with very thick Jackets & Trousers at the Governments Expence.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
A very good swell from the Southward.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 63]
Tuesday Novr. 24th. 1772

Weather
Modr. Wind & Clear
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
A very great sea continued to set from the Southward.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Hazey

Brisk breeze with Squalls

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Wednesday Novr. 25th.1772

Weather
Brisk breeze & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Modr. & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 64]

Thursday Novr. 26th. 1772

Weather
Modr. & Cloudy
Brisk breeze & Cloudy
Brisk Gale & Cloudy

Remarks
Handed the Mainsail & the Mizen Topsail & dble. reefed the fore & Main Topsails.
Brought too the main topsails to the Mast.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Made sail and set the Still to Work.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. & pretty Clear

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Friday Novr. 27th. 1772

Weather
Brisk breeze & Clear
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(19. 07) W.
(19. 55)

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. Hazey
Calm & Cloudy

Remarks
Set the Still to Work.

Weather
Light Airs & Cloudy

Remarks
Made the Signal for the Adventure to set main sail.

Weather
Brisk breeze & do.

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

[Page 65]

Saturday Novr. 28th. 1772

Weather
Brisk breeze & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Hard squalls of wind & rain

Remarks
About ½ past 7 oClock we were taken a back, by a very heavy squall of wind and rain. Handed the Topsail and brought too under the fore sail. Got down ye top Gallant Yards.

Weather
Heavy squalls & rain
Do. Do.

Remarks
At ½ past 15h. set the main sail and main topsail close reefed.

Weather
Very Strong Gales of & Squalls of Rain

Remarks
Brought too under the fore sail.

Weather
Do. Do. & hail.

Remarks
In the Midst of this heavy Gale, I had Dr. Lind’s Wind Gage & found the it was depressed by the force of the wind 0.45 of an Inch.
The Adventure to Leewards.

Sunday Novr. 29th. 1772

Weather
Strong Gales with Squalls of haul & rain.
More moderate

Remarks
At 3 oClock set the Main sail.

Weather
The Gale as Strong as ever etc.

Remarks
At 6 oClock brought too under the main stay sail.
The sea running exceeding high. Struck ye top Gall. Mast.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 12 oClock it was discovered the ship was almost knee deep in water between Decks; but on sounding the Well not more than about 20 Inches was there: and on examination it was found that the Inside scuttle of the Boatswain’s store room had given way which being on the Lee side of the ship was almost constantly under water. Both hand Pumps were instantly set to work & one of the quartermasters instantly offered to go over the side & force in the outside scuttle, which he effected after being three times being washed up into the fore chains. At ½ past 1 oClock finding [indecipherable] two feet of water in the Well & [indecipherable] other different parts of the ship Capt Cook [indecipherable] the chain Pumps to be rigged & Dicks scuttled which cleared her in a few minutes.

[Page 66]
Monday Novr. 30th 1772

Weather
Strong Gales & Cloud

Remarks
The Water in Dr Lord’s Wind Gage was depressed 0.45 of an In.
Set the fore-sail
Set ye mainsail

Weather
Something more moderate

Remarks
Handed the mainsail

Weather
Very Strong wind & Showers

Remarks
Brought too under the Mizen stay-sail

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Set the fore-sail, mainsail and Main topsail
Handed the Main topsail
Hoisted up the Mainsail & brought too

Weather
Do. Do.
The wind Stronger
More moderate

Remarks
Set the main-sail
The Adventure in Company

Tuesday Decr. 1st 1772

Weather
Strong Gale & rain

Remarks
The Water in Dr Lord’s Gage was depressed 4/10 of an Inch

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Handed the mainsail & brought too.

Weather
Do. Do.
More moderate

Remarks
Set the mainsail and maintopsail close reefed

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Set the fore-topsail close reefed
Got up the top-gallant yards

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

[Page 67]
Wednesday December 2d. 1772

Weather
Strong Gales & Foggy
Do. Do.

Remarks
The sea very high and irregular setting in various directions, which means they break one against another and cause the ship to labour much. Brought too.

Weather
Very strong wind, Do.
Strong Gale & Squally
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Set the mainsail & made the signal for the Adventure to make sail also

Weather
More moderate & foggy

Thursday Decr. 3d. 1772

Weather
Brisk Gale & clear

Remarks
I remember to have seen in some author or other, how that
“After a storm the sun more bright appears!”
and he adds
“That joy is greatest which is rais’d from fears.”
The latter part may be true for ought that I know to the contrary, but I am certain the former is so for never did sunshine & moderate weather appear more delightful than now to us after near a week of the more turbulent weather that can be well imagined.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Hazey
Moderate
Do. Do.

[Page 68]
Friday Decr. 4th 1772

Weather
Brisk wind cloudy
Do. Hazey
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Clear

Remarks
Longit. by D's Dist a' O 17°51” E

Variation by Azimuth 16°04” W
Do. 16°31 “ W

Remarks
Got up the Top-Gallant Yards.
Variation by Amplitude 15°49”
Variation by Azimuth 16°31 2/3)
16°04¼) W.

Weather
Do. Hazey

Remarks
The Adventure astern

Saturday Decr. 5th 1772

Weather
Strong wind & Hazey
Do. Do.
Do. & Cloudy

Remarks
Hauled up the courses and brought too under the fore topsail.

Weather
Do. do. with rain
Do. Do. Do.

Remarks
Made sail

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure astern

[Page 69]
Sunday December 6th 1772

Weather
Brisk wind & hazey
Do. Do.

Remarks
Discovered that the tiller was loose in the rudder head. Brought too and made the signal for the Adventure to go ahead while we fastened it. At 4 o’clock made sail.
Variation by Azimuth
(17°51¾ ”) West
(18°38¾”)

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Brought too to make some further alteration to the Tiller and at 10 o’clock made sail.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. Rain
Do. Do.

Remarks
Got down the Top-Gallant yards.

Weather
Strong wind with rain

Monday Decr. 7th 1772

Weather
Very strong wind & rain

Remarks
Brought too under the mizzen stay sail.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Struck the Top-Gallant Masts & got the spritsail yard fore and aft.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. cloudy

Remarks
Wore ship & set the main topmast staysail

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

[Page 70]
Tuesday Decr. 8th 1772

Weather
Very strong wind & cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Saw two Penguins.
Sounded; but found no Ground with 100 fathoms.
At 8h wore ship.

Weather
Do. snow at times
Do. cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 15h wore ship again.
At 22h set the Courses

Weather
More moderate & hazey

Remarks
The Adventure in Company. Set the Top-sails close reefed.

Wednesday Decr. 9th 1772

Weather
Strong wind & cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
At ½ past 6h handed ye Topsails.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 8h brought too under the fore-sail and mizzen stay sail.

Weather
Do. Do.

At ½ past 10h the water which has been spilt near the Scuttle Butt was frozen to ice.
At 11h bore away.

Weather
More moderate. Cloudy

Remarks
At 15h. set the mainsail & Top-sails reefed.
Variation by Azimuth
(16°32") W
(16°26")

Weather
Brisk wind with snow

Remarks
This morning we passed by a large island of Ice & several small pieces. The island was not very high, was smooth in the top sides & not rugged like I used to see in the North Seas.

Weather
Ditto with Sleet

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

[Page 71]
Thursday Dec 10th 1772

Weather
Brisk Gale with snow
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Passed very near to a large Island of Ice, which we mistook for land, at first, as did also the Adventure. This Island, I conceive was at least twice as high above the Water as our Top Galln. Masthead, and appeared to be like those which I saw in Hudson's Strayts, in every respect except that its top & sides were quite smooth & straight, & I never saw any there which were so.
At half past 9h. wore ship

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Passed by another Island of Ice:- it was smooth & low; but very long and broad.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Friday Dec 11th 1772

Weather
Brisk wind & cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. with snow
Very squally

Remarks
This afternoon passed pretty near to a large Island of Ice, and several small pieces. The Island was not very high, but I took the pains to measure its length, by taking the angles subtended by it & its bearings at two station & found it about half a mile. The sea broke frequently over it & yet was it not washed into gutters thereby but quite smooth and even – I therefore suppose it had not been long drove out to sea. We also saw a Penguin.
Passed by another large Island of Ice.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Sleet

Remarks
This morning have passed by several islands of ice. One was larger than any we had seen before; but not so high as that which we saw on Thursday noon. These also were all smooth & upright [indecipherable].
The Adventure astern.

[Page 72]
Saturday Dec 12th 1772

Weather
Brisk Breezy & snow

Remarks
Saw a Whale.-

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Passed between two large Islands of Ice; one was very long, broad and smooth: the other was not so much in circumference but very high & formed in spires and cliffs like those I used to see in the North Seas. –

Weather
Moderate wind, Do.

Remarks
No ground with 150 fathoms. Hauld up the courses. –

Weather
Little wind, Do.
Fresh breeze, Do.

Remarks
Set the courses and Mizen Topsail and let a reef out of the main and fore Topsails. –

Weather
Strong breeze, Do.

Remarks
Passed between two large Islands of Ice.
Several Penguins about the Ship. –
Passed by a very high ragged headed Island of Ice.
Saw low Ice from S.E. & E to S.S.W

Weather
Less wind and cloudy with snow at times

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

Sunday Dec 13th 1772

Weather
Brisk wind with snow

Remarks
14 Islands of Ice in sight

Weather
Do. hazey

Remarks
Tacked ship and hauled up the Courses. –

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Wore ship & made the signal for the Adventure to do so likewise.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Set the courses and Mizen Topsail.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Found ourselves quite emboyed with low ice and upwards of 20 large Islands in sight.
[indecipherable] to hoisted out the boat & sent on board the Adventure.
Captn. Furneaux returned in her. –

Weather
Do. Hazey

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 73]
Monday Dec 14th 1772

Weather
Moderate wind & hazy

Remarks
Many Islands of Ice in sight & and field ice from S.W. to S.E.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Saw two Whales.
At 6h bore away as no passage through the Ice was to be found Southward. –

Weather
Do., Cloudy

Remarks
At 13h made the signal to tack; and found great difficulty in trimming the sails, the rigging being loaded with Ice.

Weather
Little wind and much snow
Do., Hazy

Remarks
Went with the Master in the Boat to try the current & heat of the sea-water below the surface. We found that the current set S.S.E. at the rate of 40 feet in a minute. The thermometer stood at, at 30 m in the water, at the surface and at 34 when drawn up from 100 fathoms below it. The Thermometer was 17' at that depth and we were 5½' drawing it up. Whilst we were doing this so thick a fog came on that we could not find the ship.

Weather
Do., Thick fog.

Tuesday Dec 15 1772

Weather
Little wind thick fog
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
About noon we fortunately found the Adventure and soon after saw ye Resolution. I got on board thinking this a proper opportunity of trying ye state of the air with respect to Electricity. I got my apparatus over the Tassarel of the ship & found the balls diverged about an angle of 10°; but I do not account it a fair Trial, on account of the Wind , which tho` but small was sufficient to hinder the excited wax from closing them a gain it is therefore probable it might contribute to make them diverge.

Weather
Do. with frost

Remarks
Fired guns all the fore part of the night as signals to enable the Adventure to keep company

Weather
Do., thick fog

Remarks
Wore ship with much difficulty , on account of the vast quantities of sea and snow with which the Rigging is loaded.

Weather
Do. & snow

Remarks
Saw several whales

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Wore ship, which was as much as the people on board could do, though in perfect health.

[Page 74]
a1800074h.jpg

Wednesday December 16th 1772

Weather
Moderate winds & foggy
Do., Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Many Ice Islands in sight
About 3 oclock we began to discover a whitish haze in the horizon extending from about S.E. to S.W. which I ascribed to a field of Ice, having always found it so in the Northern seas, and was laughed at for my information ; however at 4 oclock such a field was discovered from the masthead extending without opening from S.S.W. to S.E.

Weather
Do., foggy
Do. Do. snow
Do., Hazy sleet

Remark
Variation by Azimuth 22°n 9¼' W.
Many Islands of Ice in sight. A very remarkable one which was yesterday about 3 miles to leeward is now about 4 miles to windward.
At 22h. Hauled the Wind to look for a passage through the Ice.

Weather
Do. hazy with sleet

Remarks
Saw two whales. The Adventure in Company.

Thursday December 17th 1772

Weather
Mod. wind & cloudy

Remarks
Saw a seal

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. clear

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 21°09 1/3 W.
At 8 oclock the field Ice stretched from the weather quarter quite round to the Lee bow & were surrounded with very large Islands on every point of the Compass. No ground with 150 fathoms.

Weather
Do. cloudy

Remarks
At 11 oclock found ourselves emboyed with low Ice on almost every side, and got out with some difficulty by tacking & standing S.Westward, close – hauled.

Weather
Do. foggy
Brisk breeze & snow

Remarks
Much loose Ice about us.

Weather
Do. very thick

Remarks
The Adventure in company

[Page 75]
Friday 18th December 1772

Weather
Brisk wind & squally with snow & very thick
Do. Do.

Remarks
From one to two oclock we passed by 4 Islands of Ice : the thick ness of the weather hindered us from seeing one of the largest of them untill we had not time to wear ship; there was therefore but one way and that very unlikely, to go clear of it we however did weather it by a few fathoms. The Adventure had just time to wear and go to leeward of it.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 11` oclock passed between two very large Islands of Ice & had several others very near us.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Many Islands of Ice in sight.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

Saturday December 19th 1772

Weather
Mod. Wind & very foggy

Remarks
Passing continually by very large Islands of Ice which the thickness of the fog hindered us from seeing until we come almost upon them.

Weather
Do. cloudy

Remarks
About 5 oclock it began to clear up a little, and we now saw near 30 Islands of Ice and most of them very large.
Variation by Azimuth 22°26` ½ W.

Weather
Do. Clear
Do. Hazey
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Several Islands of Ice in sight.

Weather
Brisk wind, snow

Remarks
Brewed wort for some of the people who began to have symptoms of the Scurvy. I suppose I shall be believed when I say that I am unhappy in being one of them.

Weather
Do. snow

Remarks
The Adventure in company

[Page 76]
Sunday December 20th 1772

Weather
Brisk wind with snow & very thick
Do. Do.
Do. cloudy

Remarks
A great sea from the Northward

Weather
Do. snow
Do. Do.

Remarks
Sounded no ground with 150 fathoms

Weather
Do. hazey

Remarks
Wore ship and stood to the Southward
Made a signal for the Adventure to set more sail

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure a stern.

Monday December 21st. 1772

Weather
Brisk breeze & hazey
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 21°n 47¼' W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Wore ship. Many Islands of Ice about us.

Weather
Do. & thick foggy wr.

Remarks
Wore ship

Weather
Do. snow
Do. Do.

Remarks
Wore ship

Weather
Do. hazey

Remarks
Many Islands of Ice about us most of them very curious on account of their shape

[Page 77]
Tuesday December 22nd 1772

Weather
Mod. & cloudy
Do. with snow
Do. Do.

Remarks
Tried soundings, found no ground with 130 fathoms.

Weather
Do. cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variations by Azimuth 23°56` W

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Not so many Islands of Ice about us as hath been usual lately

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Hoisted out the Boat to try the current but found none.
The thermometer stood at 33 in the open air, at 32 in the water at the surface, and at 34½ when drawn up from 100 fathoms below it. The thermomr/ lay at that depth 16 minutes and we were 6½ minutes in drawing it up. 14 Islands of Ice in sight. The Adventure in company

Wednesday December 23rd 1772

Weather
Mod & cloudy & snow
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Light breeze & cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Many Islands of Ice in sight.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

[Page 78]
Thursday December 24th 1772

Weather
Modr.breeze & cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Brisk wind & cloudy
Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Saw two whales
Much loose Ice about us, and many Island in sight

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company

Friday December 25th 1772

Weather
Brisk breeze & cloudy

Remarks
A great swell from the Eastward

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Hauled up the fore sail. Two Islands of Ice [indecipherable]
and many more in sight.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Sailed through much loose Ice.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Many Ice Islands in sight

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

[Page 79]
Saturday December 26th 1772

Weather
Brisk wind & cloudy

Remarks
The Eastern swell still continues.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation 19°37` by Azimuth
Variation by Azimuth 19°14`W

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Several Penguins about the ship

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Little wind & Cloudy
Do. Clear

Remarks
This morning we say prodigious numbers of Penguins about the ship. The progressive motion of those birds in the water is odd enough: they do not swim like other birds but leap forward in the water by means of their legs and pinions. For they cannot be said to have wings. Their note is not much unlike that of a goose, which some of our people so happily imitated, that they could draw them almost close to the ship`s side.

Sunday December 27th 1772

Weather
Calm hazey

Remarks
The sea still continues to set from the Eastward.

Weather
Light airs Cloudy

Remarks
Tried soundings with 220 fathoms, but found no ground.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Saw several very large Whales.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Saw two small Islands of Ice

Weather
Do. Do.
Brisk breeze & cloudy

Remarks
No Ice in sight from the mast head!
Made the signal for the Adventure to keep 3 or 4 miles on our larboard beam.

Weather
Do. Do.

[Page 80]
Monday December 28th 1772

Weather
Brisk breeze & cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Made the signal for the Adventure to come under the Resolutions Stern.

Weather
Do. Do.
Little wind with snow
Do. Do.
Moderate wind Do.

Remarks
Many penguins

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company

Tuesday December 29th 1772

Weather
Gentle breeze & cloudy with snow
Do. Do.
Do. Do. sleet
Light airs, Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Hauled up for an island of ice which Capt Cook was desirous of passing very near to that he might be able to judge whether or not there was any possibility of getting water from them, which we now begin to be much in want of but had the mortification to find the surf too great, and its sides near the water too steep to come near it with any degree of safety. We made it on the Weather side, and were much surprised to find
it covered with the dung of Birds, but were much more so when we opened the leeside to find it almost covered with Penguins. The great numbers of these Birds which we had seen for some days past made us hope that land was near, but this circumstance in some measure damped our expectations as it should seem from hence that they make these these islands their principal abode. It was thought by some that they might even breed here; but this seems however not probable, as the the heat necessary to hatch the eggs would melt the ice where they lay and thereby defeat the very purpose it was intended to effect.

This morning we saw a seal and several Penguins.

Weather
Modr. Breeze, Do.

[Page 81]
Wednesday December 30th 1772

Weather
Mod. Breeze & cloudy
Do. hazey

Remarks
Not one island of ice in sight.

Weather
Do. cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Fell in with a field of ice. Hauled to the Northward. at 13°finding no passage to the North, we wore ships. A little before 16°finding ourselves amongst much loose ice, against which the ships struck very hard, we wore ships again and at 16°saw the ice shifting from eastward of the North to nearly S.W. and so far to the Northwest that it could not be seen even from the mast head. Some were of opinion that they saw land beyond the ice, but others were positive that no such appearance could be seen.
Got down the top gallt yards

Weather
Brisk gale Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
This morning we saw a seal and many Penguins.
One island of ice in sight.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
During the forenoon we saw many places in the sea which appeared discoloured, as if in soundings. I am of opinion it is only the effect of ye morning`s runyan.

Thursday December 31st 1772

Weather
Brisk gale and cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Close reefed the topsail
Saw a seal

Weather
Strong Wind, Do.

Remarks
Hauled the topsails
Wore ships

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Ran very near to large island of ice before it was discovered

Weather
Do. Do.
More moderate, Do.

Remarks
Set the Top Sails

Weather
Brisk gale, Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company

[Page 82]
Friday January 1st 1773

Weather
Brisk gale with [indecipherable]
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Only one island of ice, which is to windard

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Passed by two islands of ice

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Four islands of ice in sight.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
The Adventure astern

Saturday January 2nd 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & cloudy
Do. Clear

Remarks
Saw two whales

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Longit. By Dist 0 [indecipherable] 10°42 E
I saw several Whales & had many penguins about the ship.
Variation by Azimuth
(12.16½)
(120.3)
(13-33)
(11-55½) W.

Weather
Do. Clear

Remarks
Sounded, but found no ground with 150 fathoms

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Brisk wind & Do.

Remarks
Got up the Top Gallt yards

Weather
Do. snow

Remarks
Got down the Top Gallt yards

Weather
Do. sleet

Remarks
The rigging so incumbered with ice, that it is with the greatest difficulty the ship is worked.

[Page 83]
Sunday January 3rd 1773

Weather
Brisk gale & thick haze
Do. Do.
Mod.breezes & thick fog

Remarks
Fired guns every half hour, and rang the Bell to enable the Adventure to keep company
At ½ past 9 o`clock got sight of the Adventure.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Brisk gale & hazey
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
This morning passed by two small island of ice and many small pieces which I take to be the remains of that which we fell in with on 31st of December at night, and which we now came in search of to water at our disappointments on this head the greater as that article begins to be scarce. This morning the Rigging is more encumbered with ice if possible than yesterday.

Monday January 4th 1773

Weather
Brisk gale with sleet
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
One island of ice in sight

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

[Page 84]
Tuesday January 5th 1773

Weather
Brisk gale & Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
No ice in sight

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. snow
Do. Do.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
This morning we have passed by 4 islands of ice which are more than we have passed these two days before them

Wednesday January 6th 1773

Weather
Brisk breeze & Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Passed by two or three pretty large ice islands

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. sleet

Remarks
No ice in sight nor a bird to be seen of any sort!

Weather
Do. cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company

[Page 85]
Thursday January 7th 1773

Weather
Modr breeze with snow
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Passed by a large island of ice

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Passed by two island of ice

Weather
Do. cloudy

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 28°. 36'W.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Three islands

Friday January 8th 1773

Weather
Modr. Breeze & cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Passed by a large island of ice

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Passed close by another large island of ice & found many small pieces about it, which gave us the hint that it might be possible to pick up as much of it with the boats as might make no inconsiderabale supply of water. Hauled the wind in order to stand on and off untill daylight, but the wind unluckily altering we could not fetch the island again.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Passed by two more large island of ice.
Variation by Azimuth 29°n 42`W

Weather
Do. hazey
Do. Do.

Remarks
Came up with another large island which had small ice about it. Brought too, hoisted out the Boats, and sent them to try what could be done. About 22h the Boats returned loaded with ice which were handed into the ship, and the boats went for another coys.of much more real value than Gold ! The Adventure doing the like.

[Page 86]
Saturday January 9th 1773

Weather
Light breeze & cloudy

Remarks
The Boats still employed bringing ice on board and all the people who can be spared from that service employed in melting and loading it up in casks.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At ½ past 6 o`clock hoisted in the Boats and made sail, with our invaluable cargo.

Weather
Do. snow
Do. Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
It may possibly be usefull to remark that this method of watering although rather more tedious on account of having the ice to melt after it is on board is notwithstanding greatly to be preferred to that of filling the casks from the water which runs off the islands, as is sometimes practised in Hudsons Straits, as this may be done with the greatest safety; whereas the other is attended with much danger to the Boats and people even there, and would be much more so here, in an open sea where the surf is almost continually breaking off large pieces from the sides of the islands.

Weather
Do. snow
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Sunday January 10th 1773

Weather
Modr wind & cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Passed several islands of ice, but all small ones.
The People employed melting & heading up the ice.

Weather
Do. snow
Do. Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 22°n 50¼' W.
Variation by Azimuth 25°n 30` ½ W.

Weather
Do. snow

Remarks
Got all the ice melted or headed up and found that it made 25 Butts.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company

[Page 87]
Monday January 11th 1773

Weather
Modr.wind & cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Six islands of ice in sight.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. hazey
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(23.47)
(23.12)
(23.23)
(24.44) W.
About 18h we fell in with some more loose ice, & as we had yet many empty casks the Boats were hoisted out & sent to fetch it on board the ship.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

Tuesday January 12th 1773

Weather
Modr.wind with snow

Remarks
The Boats employed in bringing ice on board.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Light Airs, snow

Remarks
About 5 o`clock hoisted in ye boats, wore ship and made sail.
While we were plying off this ice island for the Boats we saw several very large pieces of ice break from it which were immediately broke into small pieces by being drove against the large one; as this circumstance happened several times during the few hours we lay by it, it must follow that those islands even the largest of them cannot last long & of course cannot come very far.

Weather
Calm & cloudy

Remarks
Some of the officers this morning saw a bird which they took for a Cape Hen: these birds are it seems seldom seen far from land.

Weather
Do. snow

Remarks
Tried the current and found it to set N.N.W.at the rate of 27 feet a minute.
My Thermomr stood at 37 in the open and at 33 ½ in the water at ye surface, and at 32 when drawn up from 100 fathoms below it.

Weather
Do. cloudy

[Page 88]
Wednesday January 13th 1773

Weather
Calm & hazey
Do. Do.

Remarks
Got all the casks full of fresh water from the ice & had yet a considerable quantity in bulk.

Weather
Do. Do.
Light airs & cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Flying clouds

Remarks
Longit by dist O a D 39°n 39½` E.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure not far off us

Thursday January 14th 1773

Weather
Light airs & Flying clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(28.10)
(28.10)
(28.21) W.

Weather
Do cloudy

Remarks
Six ice islands in sight

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Passed by two large ice islands

Weather
Do. snow

Remarks
Went to 2/3 allowance of bread

Weather
Do. cloudy

Remarks
Longit. By dist O a D 39°n 17` E. This is the mean result of two sets one taken without telescope & giving 39°n 58 2/3 & the other with one & giving 38°n 35 5/8` This difference did not use to happen and I am at a loss what to ascribe it to: Capt Cook took some with a telescope which gave 38°n 37` E. & some without which gave 40°n 04 ¼ E.

Weather
Do. Flying clouds.

[Page 89]
Friday January 15th 1773

Weather
Light Breezes & clear

Remarks
The disagreement of yesterday's observations has given me much concern, and employed my most serious attention, without being able to assign any probable reason for it. It could not arrive from any error in the Instrument that I know of except a defect in the parallelism of the Telescope to the plane of the Quadr. And of that I am perfectly satisfied. That astronomical observations, and particularly those of the D's Dist from ye O etc. cannot be made with anything near the certainty in those high Latitudes that they can in lower ones. I am well convinced from much experience and have mentioned it in my Account of the Voyage to Hudson's Bay; but I had never the least idea how great these inconveniences really were before I had the pleasure of Observing in tropical Regions, when it is impossible to conceive how clearly & distinctly the Limbs of O & D are defined by those who have not experienced it.

Weather
Mod wind with Snowt
Brisk wind & cloudy
Do. Snow
Do. Do.
Do. Foggy

Remarks
The Adventure in company

Saturday January 16th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & cloudy
Hazey
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation to azimuth 27°09') W.
Do. Do. 27.12 )

Weather
Do. Do.
Do with Sleet
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Foggy

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

[Page 90]
Sunday January 17th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
A great many Islands of Ice in sight, and many large Whales about the ship.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Sleet

Remarks
About ½ past 6 oClock we tacked amidst great amounts of loose Ice. A large field, seemingly of fast Ice, extended from E.S.E. to W.S.W. This field Ice seemed to be as high above the water as our Ship's Hull, and extended so far [indecipherable] that we could not see over it from the Mast head.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
A very heavy swell from the Eastward.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Monday, January 18th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & foggy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Passed by two Ice Islands.

Weather
Do. Do.

Weather
Passed very near to a small Island of Ice.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. with sleet
Do. Do.

Remarks
No Ice in sight.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 91]
Tuesday January 19th 1773

Weather
Mod wind & cloudy

Remarks
Got up the top-Gallant yards

Weather
Little wind & cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Three islands of ice in sight
Tacked Ship.

Weather
Do. Do.
Mod wind Do.

Remarks
Tacked ship

Weather
Brisk wind, Do.

Remarks
Three Islands of Ice in sight.
I am told a Cape (or Port Egmont) Hen was seen.
Reefed the Topsails and got down the Top Gall.n Yards

Weather
Do., Snow

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

Wednesday January 20th 1773

Weather
Mod wind with sleet
Do. cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Only one Island of Ice in sight.

Weather
Do. Sleet
Do. Do.
Do. Snow

Remarks
Got up the Top Galln Yards

Weather
Do. Sleet

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 92]
Thursday January 21st 1773

Weather
Mod wind & cloudy
Do

Remarks
5 Islands of ice in sight
Variation by azimuth (31-13)
(31.23) W
(32.23)

Weather
Mod.r & hazy

Remarks
Several Islands of ice in sight

Weather
Do Snow
Do

Remarks
Passed by 5 Islands of Ice

Weather
Do

Remarks
All the Ice Islands which we have seen lately are small ones.

Weather
Do Cloudy

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

Friday January 22nd 1773

Weather
Mod wind with Sleet
Do

Remarks
12 Isles of Ice in sight

Weather
Do.
Do. Cloudy
Do. Sleet

Remarks
17 Isles of Ice in Sight.-
The Marine Watches being placed, one on each side of the great Cabbin. I judged it proper to put a Thermometer by each of them. Before a fire was kept in the Cabbin, I never was there thermometr differ more than half a degree; but since there has been a fire, I have constantly found that Thermometer which was on the Weather side highlist, and sometimes 3 degrees. I have mentioned this circumstance because it appeared to me curious, if it should be of no moment, nothing is lost but by labour in writing it down.
Variation by azimuth 33 deg.11 ½ W.

Weather
Do. Hail

Remarks
Made a signal for the Adventure to keep 4 miles on our Larboard Quarter.

Weather
Brisk wind Cloudy

Remarks
Many Islands of Ice in Sight.

[Page 93]
Saturday January 23rd 1773

Weather
Brisk gale with Snow
Do

Remarks
Called the Adventure in again.

Weather
Do
Do Cloudy

Remarks
At 11 o'clock the Adventure brought too, in consequence whereof the Resolution brought too also, main Topsail to the mast.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
15 Islands of Ice in sight
3 Islands of Ice in sight.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

Sunday January 24th 1773

Weather
Brisk Gale & cloudy
Mod wind & cloudy

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(35-30) W.
(34-14)

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Shortened sail for the night as they begin now to be dark for three or four hours.

Weather
Brisk breeze & cloudy

Remarks
Passed by two very large Islands of Ice
Made sail
Passed by another large Island of Ice

Weather
Do. Foggy
Do

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 94]
Monday January 25th 1773

Weather
Brisk Gale with Fogg

Remarks
A heavy swell from the East. Ward

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Shortened sail for the night

Weather
Do Snow
Brisk wind & thick Fog
Little wind & Rain

Remarks
Made sail. A great irregular sea

Weather
Do. Do.
Do Snow

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

Tuesday January 26th 1773

Weather
Thick Fog

Remarks
The Swell Continues

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
No ice in sight

Weather
Gentle Breeze and Cloudy

Remarks
The sea very heavy, notwithstanding it has been so long calm.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Three Islands of Ice in sight.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Made the signal for the Adventure to keep 4 miles on our Larboard Beam

Weather
Brisk breezy & clear

[Page 95]
Wednesday January 27th 1773

Weather
Modr & flying clouds

Remarks
Longit by Dist [sun & moon] 51deg.50 E

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Passed by two large Islands of Ice.
Made the signal for the Adventure to come in
Variation by azimuth
(31-24½ )
(31-22½ )W
(33-31½ )

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Shortened sail for the night

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Made sail.
Passed by 3 Islands of Ice.

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
Made a signal for the Adventure to keep 4 miles on the Starboard Beam.

Weather
Do. Do.

Thursday January 28th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind with sleet
Do

Remarks
Made the signall for the Adventure to come in.
Variation by azimuth) 33deg.04 W
A single observation)

Weather
Squally with Snow & Rain

Remarks
Shortened sail
Passed amidst several large Islands of Ice.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Made sail

Weather
Do
Do
Very Strong wind & cloudy

[Page 96]
Friday January 29th 1773

Weather
Strong wind & cloudy
Do

Remarks
The Marine Barometer though not perhaps so perfect as might be wished, has nevertheless foretold every bit of bad weather which happened since we left the Cape of good Hope, seems now to have failed. So far from indicating a strong Gale of Wind with very thick wet weather it has been rising gradually ever since the 25th and now stands higher than it has ever done for the two months past, that is since we passed the Latitude of 42 deg South [indecipherable]. May not change of place sometimes affect the Barometer? Since bad weather is often local. –

Weather
Very strong wind and foggy
Do thick fog & drizzle Rain
Strong wind & thick fog

Remarks
About 8 o'clock wore ship and split the fore topmast stay sail.-

At 12 o clock wore Ship again & made the signal for the Adventure to do so likewise.
At 16H set more sail.
At 20H carried away the jib Stay & Halliards below them and set the Jib again, and at 21h split it.
The Adventure in company.

Saturday January 30th 1773

Weather
Strong wind with rain
Do
Do

Remarks
Shortened sail, and wore ship.

Weather
Modr. do.

Remarks
Wore Ship
Wore ship and made more sail

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
I cannot help remarking that the Maine Barometer has for these few days past acted diametrically opposite to what I expected & the Rule it has heretofore always observed: It began to fall a few hours before the bad weather began to abate, & continues falling. –

Weather
Do.

Remarks
The Adventure astern

[Page 97]
Saturday January 31 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & cloudy

Remarks
Passed by two Islands of Ice.

Weather
do

Remarks
Variation by Amplitude 30 ° 49’ W
Shortened sail for the night

Weather
Do.

Remarks
Made sail

Weather
Do.

Remarks
Passed by a small piece of seaweed.

The Adventure in company.

Monday February 1st 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & cloudy

Remarks
Made the signal for the Adventure to keep four miles on our Starboard Beam.

Weather
Do.

Remarks
At half past 7 o’clock the Adventure made the signal to speak with us, and , and having brought too until they came up with us said they had passed through a large Bed of Seaweed and had seen several Divers. Both they have concluded Land was near but were equally at a loss which way to look for it.

Weather
Do.

Remarks
At 7 o’clock brought the main Topsail to the mast.

Weather
Do.

Remarks
Wore Ship & made sail

Weather
Do. & foggy with rain.

Remarks
Passed by a great heap of Sea Weed.
Made the signal for the Adventure to keep 4 miles on our Larboard Beam.

Passed several pieces of Sea Weed

Weather
do. Very hazy

Remarks
At noon made the signal for the Adventure to come in & stood South, thinking the land that way

[Page 98]
Tuesday February 2nd 1772

Weather
Modr. wind & hazy
do

Remarks
Variation by azimuth
27 °“ 52 ½ )
27. 48)
27. 02)W
27. 27 ½ )

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
At ½ past 7 o’ clock, wore ship and stood Eastward
Saw a Port Egmont Hen.

Weather
Brisk breeze. do

Remarks
Brought too, main topsail to the mast.

Made sail.

Weather
Do.

Remarks
Variation by azimuth 32 ° 30’W Mr. Pickersgill.

Weather
Brisk Wind do.

Remarks
Tacked and stood westward fearing we had left the land in that quarter.

Weather
Squally do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Wednesday February 3d. 1773

Weather
Strong wind with rain.
do
Very strong gales

Remarks
Brought too under the fore sail & mizen Stay Sail

Weather
Mod wind & cloudy

Remarks
Set the main sail. –
Set the mainsail and fore-top sail –

Weather
do
Hazy

Remarks
A great swell from the N.N.W.
The Adventure in company.

[Page 99]
Thursday February 4th 1773

Weather
Mod Wind & clear
do

Remarks
Variation by azimuth 27’54 ½ W
Tacked ship – wore down to the Adventure
Variation by azimuth 33. 08¼ W

Weather
Cloudy
do

Remarks
A great swell from the N.W.

Weather
do
do

Remarks
The Adventure in company.-

Friday February 5th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & cloudy
do
do

Remarks
Variation by azimuth
(30 ° 37¾)
(31 ° 16¼) E

Weather
Drizling rain
do

Remarks
Wore ship and stood Eastward.
The Adventure in Company

[Page 100]
Saturday February 6th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & cloudy
do. Cloudy

Remarks
Variation by azimuth 32°24¼’ W

Weather
do
do

Remarks
Made the Adventure a signal to keep 4 miles on the Starboard beam. –

Sunday February 7th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & clear
Modt. & Cloudy

Remarks
Made the signal for ye Adventure to come in.
Variation by azimuth 31° 08’W

Weather
Squally with rain
do

Remarks
Saw several Penguins and Divers.

Weather
do. Rain

Remarks
Sounded; but found no ground with 210 fathms.
Came on a thick fog. Lost sight of the Adventure.
Fired guns every half hour for the Adventure

Weather
Thick Fog do.

Remarks
Tacked and made the signal for the Adventure to do so Likewise; but heard no answer.

[Page 101]
Weather
Strong gale & thick fog

Remarks
Fired guns every half hour for the Adventure.

Weather
do. & small rain

Remarks
Fired half hourly Gun’s and thought we once heard an answer; but were divided about the point it came from

Weather
Very thick fog.

Remarks
Do & no answer

Weather
do fogg with rain

Remarks
Do repeated

Weather
Do.

Remarks
Close reefed the Topsails and handed the Mizen Topsail
Fired half hourly Guns for the Adventure – no answer

Weather
Do.

Remarks
Wore ship and got down the Top-Gallant yards-
Saw a Pengwin. This and those we saw yesterday are considerably different to those we saw amongst the ice islands to the Southward.-
A little clearer; but no Adventure to be seen or heard of

Weather
Do. Squally

Remarks
Handed the Topsails –

Tuesday February 9th 1773

Weather
Strong wind & thick fog

Remarks
At half past 2 o’clock brought too under the Mizen staysail
St. the foresail –

Weather
Do.

Remarks
All this night fired guns at short intervals & burnt false fires, both on Deck and at the Mast Head.-

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
The Adventure not to be seen from the Mast Head
Variation by Azimuth 27°‘ 33’ W.
Bore away –

Weather
Brisk wind & cloudy

[Page 102]
Wednesday February 10th 1773

Weather
Strong wind & cloudy
do
do

Remarks
Shortened sail
Brought the mail topsail to the mast.-

Weather
Brisk wind with rain
do

Remarks
Wore ship and made sail.-
Saw several Pengwins, not like those which we have seen for several days past, but those we saw formerly

Thursday February 11th1773

Weather
Brisk wind and cloudy

Remarks
Latit by dbl Alt at ½ one o’clock 51 °22’S

Weather
Do. hazy

Remarks
Shortened sail for the night.

Weather
Do. Clear

Remarks
Saw Pengwins.
Made Sail.
Variation by Azimuth 32°. 34½’ W

Weather
Do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist 0’a D 70 °16 2/3’ E

[Page 103]
Friday February 17th 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & clear

Remarks
Many Pengwins
Variation by Azimuth 32 °’ 33W

Weather
Do. cloudy
Do. do.
Do. Clear

Remarks
Saw some Pengwins
Variation by azimuth 33°.58’W.
Longit by dist
(72° .24’)
(73 .10¾ )
(72 . 40½ )E
(72 . 29½ )

Saturday February 13th 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & Clear

Remarks
Many Pengwins.

Weather
do. Hazy
do. Cloudy with rain

Remarks
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. do
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Made Sail.
Saw a seal.

Weather
Snow
Sleet

[Page 104]
Sunday February 14th 1773

Weather
Brisk gales & hazy with snow
do. hazy

Remarks
Variation by azimuth 36’12’W
Latitude 55° 40’ 2/3 S.
Shortened sail for the night.

Weather
Squally with sleet
do
do
Brisk wind & cloudy
do

Monday February 15th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & cloudy
do cloudy

Remarks
Saw two seals
Variation by azimuth
(36° .53’)
(39° .11’)W
(38 .22’)
Saw two more Seals.
Shortened sail. Sounded: no Ground with 150 fathoms

Weather
Moderate wind & cloudy
Little wind & cloudy

Remarks
Made sail; and soon after saw an Island of Ice to the N.E. Its the first we have met with in going to the South ward this time

Weather
Calm & cloudy

Remarks
Saw one Pengwin
Discovered another Island of Ice, a little to the leeward of the former.-

Weather
Little wind cloudy

[Page 105]
Tuesday, February 16th 1773

Weather
Light breezes & cloudy
do
Thick with snow
Moderate wind. Do

Remarks
Shortened sail.

weather
Thick with snow
Do. do.

Remarks
At leaving the Cape of Good Hope I had desired the Lieut & the other officers who kept watch to be as obliging as to tell me if they saw extraordinary appearance in the heavens and this morning Mr. Pickersgill told me that he had seen something like the Aurora Borealis; but that he had not time to apprise me of it before the clouds returned and covered it.-

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Saw an Island of Ice and bore down to it to water, if possible.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Saw a Whale.

Wednesday February 17th 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
About noon came close under the Lee of the above mentioned Island of Ice, and were by a kind of indraught or some means or other insensibly sucked so near that we had scarce any probability of being drove against it which must have been inevitable destruction and it was equally unknown also how we got off without, and we had scarce got ½ a cables length from it before several pieces almost as large as the ship broke off from that very part where we were then. Pieces were soon broke into lesser ones & boats were hoisted out to pick them up as soon as the ship was got at a convenient distance. When we had got as much ice as suited us the boats were hoisted again & we made sail.
About 13h Mr. Clarke informed me that the same appearance which Mr. Pickersgill had seen the night before was very bright. I got up and found it the very same with what we call the Northern Lights in England.
Variation by azimuth 41° 45’ W. doubtful

Weather
Do. Clear
Do. flying Clouds

Remarks
Longit. by dist O & D 83° 05’E
Variation by Azimuth 39.35W
When I got up in the night the natural state of the heavens except a little towards the S.E. and about 10° high all round horizon was a whitish haze through which stars of ye 3rd magnitude were just descernable. All round ye horizon was covered with thick clouds out of which arose streams of a pale reddish light that ascended towards the zenith. The streams had not that motion that they are seen to have in the Northern parts of England but were perfectly steady except that they had a small tremulous motion near ye edges.

[Page 106]
Thursday Febuary 18th 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & cloudy.

Remarks
Many very large Islands of ice near us.
Variation by Azimuth
(37° 44’)
(38 . 45)
(39 . 58)
(37 . 18) W.

Weather
South wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Five Islands of Ice in sight – Shortened sail.
Got all the Ice stowed away and found that it amounted to about 7 Tuns of water besides about two or three Tuns which is left on the Deck for present use.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail

Weather
Do. snow
Do. cloudy

Remarks
Ten islands of ice in sight all very large

Friday Febuary 19th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & snow

Remarks
Many very large islands of ice in sight.- There seem here none but exceeding large ones, and they all appear very sound an perfect

Weather
Do. & very squally

Remarks
The Aurora Australis very bright at times. The colours were much more various and vivid than on Wednesday night, and the streams had much more motion so that they were extreamly beautiful.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by azimuth 41° 51¼’ W.

Weather
Do. clear

Remarks
All the forenoon were passing continually by exceedingly large and high islands of ice, so that the sea had truly tremendous appearance.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Light exceeding large islands of ice in sight.

[Page 107]
Saturday Febuary 20th 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & hazy

Remarks
About one oclock tacked and stood westward; some being of opinion that they saw land in that quarter.
At 3 oclock , tacked again ; the land being gone.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Many large islands of ice in sight.
Variation 40° 13` W.
Do. 40 . 49 W.

Weather
Do. Clear

Remarks
About nine oclock the southern lights sprung up very bright in the East point of the horizon, in a pillar of steady pale coloured light, making much the same appearance which I used to see in Hudson`s Bay (se Philoss.Transact.1770) only instead of passing directly through the Zenith, it was now deflected towards the south into a kind of circular form; the lights grew fainter as it asscended, and quite vanished when it got about 45° high, & had extended sideways to nearly S.E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(35..17)
(35.. 56 ½) West & very doubtful

Weather
Do. cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Ten large islands of ice in sight.

Sunday February 21st 1773

Weather
Little wind & Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Hoisted out the Boats to pick up the loose Ice that lay about a large Island which we were now abreast of. The top of this Island was full of tall round Hummocs; but before we left it, it turned quite over and presented a side perfectly smooth and even. At ½ past 6 o’Clock hoisted in the Boats and made sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. Snow

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 40°. 58¾’ W.

Weather
Do. much snow

Remarks
Twenty-three very large Islands of Ice in sight.

Weather
Do. Snow

[Page 108]
Monday Febuary 22nd. 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
21 islands of ice in sight

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. snow
Do. do.

Remarks
Many large islands of ice about us

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Tuesday Febuary 23rd. 1773

Weather
Strong wind & snow
Do. do.

Remarks
Passed by 8 large islands of ice.

Weather
Do. very thick

Remarks
15 large islands of ice in sight, and so thick that we could not see a mile ; dble reefed the fore-topsail, took in one reef of the main topsail and handed the mizen topsail
At 8 oclock tacked and stood northward.

Weather
Do. Do sleet

Remarks
Wore ship; so very dark that we could scarce see the length

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Wore ship again
About 19h a very large island of ice burst in an instant into three large, and many small pieces just as we came a breast of it ; it made no report, or at least so little, that we could not hear it for the noise of the sea & ye whistling of ye wind in the rigging.
About 22h we passed by one of the most curious islands of ice I ever saw. Its form was that of an old square castle, one end of which had fallen into ruins ; and it had a hole quite through it whose roof so exactly resembled the Gothic arch of an old Postern Gate-way that I believe it would have puzzled an architect to have built it truer.

[Page 109]
Wednesday Febuary 24th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind with sleet
Moderate & foggy

Remarks
Many large ice island in sight

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Six islands of ice in sight

Weather
Do. do.
Calm with snow
Light airs snow

Remarks
Many large islands of ice in sight

Weather
Do. cloudy

Thursday Febuary 25th 1773

Weather
Light breezes cloudy

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(42 .. 29¼)
(43.. 45) W.

Weather
Do. Clear

Remarks
21 Islands of ice in sight
The southern lights very bright.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Several islands of ice about us
Variation by Azimuth
(41..23)
(40..31)
(41..17½) W.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. very hazy

[Page 110]
Friday Febuary 26th 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & cloudy
Brisk wind do.

Remarks
Double reefed the topsails, and got down the top-gallt. Yards.

Weather
Do. sleet
Strong wind & very thick with sleet
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Handed the mizzen top-sail
All this fore noon we were continually running past very large islands of ice, and all of them surrounded with very large pieces which were continually breaking from them, and the thickness of the weather hindered us from us from seeing those pieces before we came close to them ; had we fallen in with them in the night the consequence might have been bad.

Saturday Febuary 27th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind with sleet
Do. do.

Remarks
Passed by a very large island of ice.
Saw two whales! We have not seen any before of a long time
Shortened sail for the night

Weather
Strong wind & foggy

Remarks
Made sail

Weather
Do. cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Many porpoises about the ship
Three islands of ice in sight

[Page 111]
Sunday Febuary 28th 1773

Weather
Strong wind & cloudy
Moderate wind do.
Light airs do.

Remarks
Three islands of ice in sight. Shortened sail.

Weather
Brisk wind with snow
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail
Four islands of ice in sight.
A very great irregular swell from the N.E.

Monday March ye 1st.1773

Weather
Little wind & thick fog
Do. do.
Thick fog

Remarks
A very large island of ice on the starboard quarter

Weather
Do. with drizzling rain

Remarks
A very great swell

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
The swell very much increased , and comes from all points of the compass.
About 16h found ourselves very near the above mentioned island of ice, and that we had all night and still were driving directly for it. At 17h the warping machines were ordered to be got ready, and the boats hoisted out, when providentially the ships wore, and drove clear of it.
The swell still great and irregular.

[Page 112]
Tuesday March 2nd. 1773

Weather
Little wind & thick fog
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
This afternoon I endeavord to try the state of the air with respect to Electricity: the balls diverged about 10, or 12 degrees, but I could not make them close by applying the excited wax. Whether this was caused by the rolling motion of the ship, which hindered one from holding the things steady, or my want of skill in the operation I cannot say.
Shortened sail for the night.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail
Passed by 3 ice islands.

Weather
Do. foggy

Remarks
Set studding sails
Saw two penguins.

Weather
Mod.wind & cloudy

Remarks
Two islands of ice in sight

Wednesday March ye 3rd. 1773

Weather
Mod.wind & cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by azimuth 39°..15½’ W.
Down studding sails

Weather
Brisk wind & cloudy
Do. sleet
Do. do.

[Page 113]
Thursday March 4th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & fogy with rain
Little wind with rain
Brisk wind & cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
A great irregular swell

Weather
Little wind & drizzling rain

Remarks
One very large ice island a head.

Friday March ye 5th 1773

Weather
Mod wind & foggy
Do. do.
Little wind with rain
Do. do.

Remarks
A great and very irregular swell from the Northward.
Four islands of ice ahead: One near a mile & half long, but low: it seems as if it had broke off from a high field, such as that we saw when within the Antarctic Circle.

Weather
Calm do.
Little wind cloudy

Remarks
Saw the large island of ice to the Westward; but found that in the night many large pieces had broke from it. During the night many great reports had been heard from ye quarter on which it was, which some of the people thought was thunder; but I now conceive were occasioned by those pieces breaking off.

Weather
Mod. wind do.

Remarks
A great irregular swell from the N.W.

[Page 114]
Saturday March 6th 1773

Weather
Mod wind & cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by azimuth 32°..11` W.
Two islands of ice in sight.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The southern lights appeared sometime through the clouds

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. snow

Remarks
Tacked one ice island in sight.

Sunday March 7th 1773

Weather
Mod wind with sleet
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
One Island of Ice in sight.

Weather
Do. flying clouds
Little wind Do.

Remarks
The Southern lights very bright but no ways singular in their appearance.

Weather
Do. do.
Calm do.

Remarks
Variation by azimuth 28° . 33’ W.
Longit. by ye D’s dist. a Precyen 121° . 51½’ E. doubtfull.
Variation by Azimuth 31..47 W.

Weather
Do. do.

[Page 115]
Monday March ye 8th 1773

Weather
Flying clouds
Little wind & cloudy

Remarks
Variation by azimuth
(26°..12`
(28 . 25) W.

Weather
Do. sleet
Brisk wind & drizzling rain

Remarks
Reefed the topsails

Weather
Strong wind with rain

Remarks
Got down the top Gallt.yards, close reefed the topsails and handed the mizen topsails.

Weather
Do. cloudy

Tuesday March ye 9th 1773

Weather
Strong gale & squally
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Handed the mainsail in doing of which we shipped a sea on the quarter which was very near washing the officers & people of the quarter deck. I very near filled the scuttle butt which is placed between the Capstan and Binnocle.

Weather
Do. sleet
More moderate cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Set the main-sail
Set the reef out of the main and fore-tip sails, and wet the mizen topsail
Passed a small piece of sea –weed.

[Page 116]
Wednesday March ye 10th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.
Moderate wind do.

Remarks
A very heavy swell; the ship roling almost continually gunnell in.

Weather
Little wind do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(1°..39 1/3’)
(13..38½)
(13.. 29) W.

Thursday March ye 11th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind with sleet

Remarks
Cleaned and smoothed between decks

Weather
Mod.wind & sleet
Do. rain
Light wind & cloudy

Remarks
Having frequently remarked very considerable irregularities in the observed variations of the compass, I sometime ago took occasion to examine into the circumstances under which they were made & found that almost all those which the least variation were made when the sun was on the starboard side of the ship & those which had the least on the larboard side. I mentioned this to Capt.Cook & some others of the officers who looked on as a chemore of a speculative B[indecipherable] and an opportunity happening this morning the following were taken to confute it!

Weather
Calm & cloudy
Do. drizling rain
Light wind & hazey

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(8°..24’ W O on starbd.side
(11..46 W * O on larboard side
(11..57 1/2°W O on larboard side
(6..18 ½ W O on Starboard side
(9 .. 04 W * O on larboard side
* The two marked with a star (*) were taken with Knights Compass.

[Page 117]
Friday March 12th 1773

Weather
Mod wind & cloudy
Calm & cloudy
Do. snow & rain
Do. do.

Remarks
A heavy swell from the Northward: For three weeks or a month past we have almost continually had a great swell from that quarter; notwithstanding we have scarce ever had the wind from thence 24 hours together.

Saturday March ye 13th 1773

Weather
Mod wind & cloudy

Remarks
Variation by azimuth
(7°..37` W. O on ye starboard side
(10.. 35 W. O on the larboard side

Weather
Do. do.
Little wind & fine wr.
Do. snow
Brisk wind & cloudy
Do. flying clouds.

[Page 118]
Sunday March ye 14th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind with Snow & Rain
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by ye D's dist. a O – 136°51 1/8' E.

Weather
Do. Squally
Do. do.
Do. Strong Squals of wind
Squally with hail & snow
Brisk gale, do.

Monday, March 15th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & Squally with hail

Remarks
Split the fore-top sail: Unbent it, and bent another. Carried away the fore top mast studding sails Boom.

Weather
Squally with hail & snow.
Mod. Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
The southern Lights very bright at times, and exceeding beautiful; The Colours being as various and vivid as I have ever seen: the motion also was very quick. Curious.

Weather
Brisk and Flying Clouds
Do. Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(00°55 ½')
(2.29 ½) W.
Bent the sprit sail.

Weather
Do. do.

[Page 119]
Tuesday, March 16th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind hail & snow.

Remarks
A great swell from the westward.
Variation by Azimuth 00°.27' E.

Weather
Do. do. Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. do. Squally
Do. do. do.

Remarks
Set the studding sails.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Unbent the main-sail and mizen topsail, and bent others.

Weather.
Do. do.

Wednesday, March 17th 1773

Weather
Brisk Gale & Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Took in the studding, and top gallant sails.

Weather
Do. do.
Heavy Squals of Wind

Remarks
Close reefed the Mizen topsail, and took in a reef of each of the other Topsails.

Weather
Brisk Gale & Foggy
Do. do.

Remarks
Passed by a large lump of sea weed.

Weather
Strong Wind

Remarks
Another lump of sea-weed went past us.

[Page 120]
Thursday, March yr. 18th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind with rain
Do. Clear weather

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(14°.12' E. Capt. Cook
(13.04½ E. Mr. Gilbert
(17.19 E.) Capt. Cook
(14-21 E.)

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Hauled in a piece of sea weed, with many Barnacles on it, by the Log-line.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
A little after 9 o'clock it was pretty clear, and the Southern Lights were very bright and beautiful. They formed a sort of semi-circle, or rain-bow-like Form, the two extremities of which were nearly in the East and west points of the Horizon. This Bow when it first appeared, passed a considerable way to the northward of the Zenith, but rose by degrees turning, as it were, on to Diameter and passing through the Zenith, settled at length towards the southern horizon. These Lights were once so bright that we could discern our shadows on the Deck.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. do. rain

Remarks
This morning we saw Penguins & a seal.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Saw many pieces of sea-weed, & some Porpoises.

Friday, March yr. 19th 1773.

Weather
Brisk Gale & Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. Cloudy
Do. very thick
Do. do.

Remarks
Split the Main-top-gallant sail all to pieces.

Weather
Do. Foggy
Do. Hazey

[Page 121]
Saturday, March yr. 20th 1773.

Weather
Strong wind & Flying Clouds
Do. Flaying

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(13°.41')
(12.43)
(14.52) E.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
A very heavy swell from the westward.

Weather
Less wind. Do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Saw a Seal, and several pieces of sea-weed.

Weather
Brisk Gales. Do.

Sunday, March yr. 21st 1773

Weather
Brisk Gales & Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
A heavy swell from the Westward. Saw a Seal.

Weather
Do. Squally with rain
Do. Rain
Do. Cloudy
Do. do.

[Page 122]
Monday, March yr. 22nd 1773

Weather
Brisk Gale & Clear
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azim.
(13°.32')
(14.37)
(14.31)
(13.14) E.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Squally with rain
Brisk Gale & Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. Flying Clouds

Tuesday, March yr. 23rd 1773

Weather
Mod. Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(12°.19 1/3')
(13.14) E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
A great sea from the S.E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. Foggy

Remarks
A great Head-sea

Weather
Do. Drizling rain

Remarks
This Forenoon the ship went past much sea weed sticks, and Bark of Trees.

Weather
Do. Very Foggy.

[Page 123]
Wednesday, March ye the 24th 1773

Weather
Brisk breeze & Foggy
Light wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Passed by much sea-weed, sticks, etc.
Variation by Azimuth
(12°.07')
(11.26) E.

Weather
Do. do.
Mod. Wind & Cloudy
Squally, do.
Brisk Gale & Cloudy

Remarks
Saw Land!

Weather
Gentle breeze & clear

Remarks
The Eastermost Land in sight bore E. to N.

Thursday, March ye 25th 1773

Weather
Mod. Wind & thin Clouds

Remarks
The Land extended from E. to N. to N. to E.

Weather
Do. drizling rain

Remarks
At half past four o'Clock tacked and stood off as no safe Entrance could be seen and at 5 o'Clock a ledge of Rocks at the mouth of the Bay which we had stood in for bore N.E. dist. about 4 Miles. We now sounded & found 25 fathoms.

Weather
Strong wind & Squally with thick Fog & Rain.

Remarks
At 6 o'clock sounded & had 70 fathoms, and soon after carried away the fore-topsail sheet: clinched it and took in the first and second reefs of the top sails.

Weather
Mod. Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
At half past 8 close reefed the main-Topsail & handed the mizen top sail.
At ½ past 10 wore ship.

Weather
Little wind with rain

Remarks
Set out all reefs, set the Top-Gallt. Sails and bore away.
At 18th the most southerly land in sight bore E. to S.

Weather
Brisk wind & Showers

Remarks
The Land extended from N.N.E. to E. to S.E. to E.
At 23h the West Cape bore S. to E. & the outermost point to the Northward N. to W. Sounded & found 44 fathoms.

Weather
Mod. Breeze & fine Wr.

Remarks
About noon we entered the mouth of Bushy Bay and began to look out for a place to anchor in; but could find no [indecipherable] after we had passed the Bar at its mouth.

[Page 124]
March 26th 1773
By one o'clock we began to advance fast into the Bay, which we found to be a large Inlet, but could find no soundings with 50 & 60 fathoms of line. About ½ past one we backed the main Topsail, hoisted out the Boat, and an officer went a head of the Ship to sound, and if possible to find out a place to anchor in. About Two he made a signal for having found soundings and by Three we came to an Anchor in fifty fathoms, near a large Island, and moored with an Hawser to the Shore.

In this Inlet there are a prodigious number of small Islands most of them pretty high, and every one, though ever so small covered with Trees & herbage down to the water's edge; which it will readily be imagined must have a very beautiful appearance to us who had been out at sea between four and five months, and most of that Time amongst dreary Islands of Ice most of which were larger & higher than those which now surrounded us: but our pleasures were not all merely Ideal; a boat which was sent to fish soon returned with as much fine Fish as the whole Ship's company could eat. After Dinner I went with one of the Lieuts. to examine the Bay and look out for a better Anchoring Place & we were so fortunate as to find one complete as could be wished for. At daylight the boat was sent again to fish and I was entertained in bed with a serenade by the winged Inhabitants of the neighbouring islands far superior to any ever enjoyed by a Spainish Lady in the like situation. About 21h we got under way & worked to windward, amongst the Labyrinth of Islands with a fine breeze from the westward & entered our beautiful Cove by a passage whose breadth was about twice that of the Ship; where we anchored in 25 fathm. In general fine weather, with gentle breezes westerly.

27th
At one o'clock weighed the Anchor again, and warped the Ship opposite to a small cove, at the upper end of which was a Rivulet of fresh water, when the small Boat was let go, and then the Ship backed into the Cove, where she was secured by Hawsers to both shores: this being done I went with Capt. Cook to look out for a proper place for my Observatory & found one at some distance from the Ship which would have been very convenient, had not unforseen accidents rendered it improper.

In the morning some of the Officers went out to examine the Bay & see what sorts of Game it produced but had not proceeded far before they discovered some of the Natives on shore, on which they deemed it most prudent to return and acquaint the Capt. with a circumstances so material; but they had scarce got on board before a Canoe full of these people came in sight; they stoped not however five minutes before they paddled back again round the point they came from. A sight, so uncommon as our Ship must be to them, would, I suppose, be sufficient to strike terror into the bravest of mankind! Moderate wind N. westerly & heavy rain.

28th
About one o'Clock, the Natives came in sight again, and paddled within about 300 yards of the Ship, where they lay and viewed her with the utmost (seeming) surprize for about half an hour. The Capt. Ordered all the People to keep below, and then did all he could to entice them to come nearer, but to no purpose: for when they had satisfied

[Page 125]
1773
March 28th
their own curiosity, they put about, and returned the way they came. After Diner I went along with the Capt. and some other Officers to the place where they where first discovered: where we landed we found a Canoe drawn up under the bushes, a small net made of the leaves of a tall sedgy Plant, which grows here in great plenty, and whose fibres are, if possible, tougher than those of our hemp or flax, & much finer than the former; several Fishes, some broiled and others raw, and two little Hutts. These Hutts were about 4 or 5 feet high, and nearly of the same breadth, made of bark, and the leaves of the same Plant which the Net was; they were round on the top like an arched Vault, and were built in the thickest part of the bushes, I suppose for the sake of more Shelter, so that I could not see their length without creeping amongst the bushes which I did not chuse to do for fear of surprize. The Canoe was composed of two small ones, hollowed out of a tree each, and fastened to one another about a foot asunder by cross pieces, which were lashed to both with bandages made of the hemp Plant as we called it. The Stems and stern Posts rose much higher than the body of the Canoe and the head was attempted to be carved like the upper parts of a man and two limpet shells were put for the Eyes. The workmanship was but rude yet probably were we to see the tools which they have to effect it with we might be rather surprized that we found it no worse. I observed that the Bough of a Tree which lay on the beach appeared to have been cut off with about 4 or 5 strokes of a tool similar to an ax: The bough was as thick as a man's leg. Capt. Cook left a hatchet, a looking glass, a medall or two & some other Toys in the Canoe.

In the morning the Capt. set the People to work to make a bridge from the ships [indecipherable] to the North Shore, of the Cove, and as it was now judged improper for me to be so far from the Ship especially on that side where the Natives were, I went on shore there also to see if I could not find a place proper for my Observatory. The remainder of the Day was spent in clearing away the Ground; and I believe that before dinner I had cut down and destroyed more Trees & curious shrubs & Plants, than would in London have sold for one hundred Pounds. The former part of the Day heavy Rain the latter Showers & fine-shine alternately: moderate Wind at North-West.

29th
Employed all Day in clearing away the trees and leveling a Place for the Observatory. The Soil, in general seems to be a fine rich black Earth, and very deep; at least 3 or 4 feet. Tolerable fine weather; but frequent Showers: moderate Wind, northerly.

30th
Had two men from the Ship to assist me in Clearing away, and made much ridance although many of the Trees which we were obliged to fell would have made foremasts for the Ship. The greater part of these twenty-four hours strong gales Northerly with heavy Rain.

31st.
Still employed cutting down Trees, and erecting the Observatory: made a pretty clear opening from W. to N. to E. to N. which I judged would be sufficient for my purpose except a vista towards the South for observing Stars South of the Zenith. The first part moderate wind with Showers, the latter perfectly Clear & fine; which is the first weather of this sort which we have had since we came in.

[Page 126]
April 1st 1773
Set up the clock , and got a Puncheon filled with stones and gravel as a stand for the quadrant ; but had the mortification to find; that neither one nor the other could be fixed with sufficient steady ness to answer any purpose, on account of the looseness of the ground ; I was therefore necessitated to look out for another place & pitched on where two large – trees grew almost close together one of which I cut down close to the ground and the other about 3 ½ feet above it. The former past fine & clear ; the latter cloudy with showers, as usual : moderate wind ,north westerly

2nd
Leveled the ground for the observatory round the before mentioned two trees put up the tent, & fixed the iron frame for the clock on one ; and set the quadt on the other; and found them to answer pretty well; although a smart stomp with the foot at 7 or 8 yards distance would still make the Plumb-line shake very plainly in the microscope. Brisk wind, north-westerly & cloudy with drizzling rain at times.

3rd
Fixed up a thermometer & Barometer, and made a machine for trying the tydes; It consists of a long square tube whose internal side is about 3 inches. A square float is fitted to this tube & fixed to the end of a long slender rod which is divided into feet and inches from the float upwards. I propose to put down this rod into the tube untill the float just touches the water & then mark the feet & inches on the Rod which are even with the top of the tube: As the water is addmited into the tube only by a small aperture at the bottom the rise and fall of the water occassioned by the surf will be inconsiderable or at least much lessened. Wind northerly & pretty brisk: cloudy with rain at times

4th
Fixed up my Tyde-Instrument & began to observe but to my inexpressible surprise found it too short by many feet: It was about 6 feet long & several people, amongst whom I was one had all along concluded that the tydes did not rise & fall more than 4 feet or four feet & an half at most: We judged by the shore; & I mention this circumstance to shew how erroneous estimations of the rise & fall of the tydes may sometimes be when made in this manner, as I believe they often are. The former part of the Day cloudy with frequent & heavy showers the latter alternately clear & cloudy with showers ; moderate wind north-westerly

5th
Set about a new tyde-measurer, which I now made 11 feet long: Cut down some more trees which I found would be in my way since I changed my situation. Frequent and heavy showers of Rain & hail: Brisk winds all round the compass.

[Page 127]
6th
Finished and fixed up my Tyde instrument. I placed the bottom of the tube in the hollow of a rock a little below low-water mark and tyed its top to a tree which grew out of the bank & hung over the water: Felled the trees which stood in the south meridian.The first part of this day mostly cloudy with showers, the latter constant heavy rain: Wind moderate and variable.

7th
This afternoon the Capt. who had been out surveying of the bay informed me that he had met with three natives, a man and two women; that the man called to him as he was going past in the boat and that they had parted exceeding great friends, Rain almost without intermission; wind moderate & variable.

8th
The Capt. went again to the natives & carried with him some things as presents: The whole family were now assembled to receive him. It consisted of a man two women his wives, a young girl perhaps about 16 or 17, his daughter and 5 smaller children all boys the oldest about 11 or 12 & the youngest under a year. Continued heavy rain: Wind moderate & variable in the two western quarters.

9th
Continued heavy Rain; the wind moderate, westerly.

10th
The former part cloudy with showers, & moderate winds, northerly; the latter part flying clouds & almost calm.

11th
About noon the natives who had been seen by the Capt. and officers as above mentioned were discovered coming towards the ship in their canoe. They now came within about 100 yards of the ship and there went on shore, hauled up their boat, left it & came over the the point & sat down on the Rocks opposite the ship and about 20 or 30 yards from it but no preswasion could get them on board. They stayed there all the afternoon the night & untill noon the next day: they then left us and went we know not whither for they did not go to the place they came from.
The man seemed to me to be near 50, was of a midling hight and very broad set; of a pleasing open countenance, and not the least ferosity in his looks. His hair was black of a moderate length & curled at the ends. His lips inclining to be thick, his nose rather flat. It seemed as if the end had been pressed down to his face. His two wives were some thing younger than himself, and were small sized, their features not disagreable nor in the least masculine; but one of them was rendered barely not frightfull by a large wen which grew on her left cheek & hung down below her mouth. The girls’ person was on the whole very agreeable, but rather masculine, exceeding like the old man, and I dare say a very great Pet. She soon singled out a young fellow, one of the ship`s company for whom she expressed great fondness & seemed very unhappy whenever he was away from her, but on his offering at some famillearities, to which I suppose he was emboldened by her apparent fondness, she left him, went and sat down between her father & mother, & I never saw her take the least notice of him afterwards except when one of the

[Page 128]
April ye 11th 1773
officers offered to shoot him for the insult offered to her, and then she seemed much affected and even shed tears. We afterwards thought she had mistaken him for one of her own sex his features were rather feminine.
The man seemed almost continually lost in wonder at the construction of the ship & boats and whenever any of them came near him he examined them in the strictest manner particularly how they were put together and seemed particularly pleased with the motion & effects of the Rudder which he examined & tried over & over.
The clothing of the men and women were not that I could perceive in the least different. It consisted of a sort of mat made of the hemp plant and feathers intermixed this was hung over their shoulders, and tied down before, it reached about the middle of their thighs; below which they had no covering. The hinder part of this Ahou` as they call it, passed between their legs & was made fast to the part before. On very cold days they had over ye ahou a very thick rug-like garment , made of Rushes, or the very course parts of the hemp plant, which they called Buggy-Buggy. Every one had a bunch of feathers, grass & tied under their chins by a string which went round their necks, & the women`s hair was tied in a bunch on the Crowns of their heads & adorned with the feathers of Parrots & other birds.
A Corporal of Marines who had learned something of the New Zealand language last voyage asked the man to let him have his daughter for a wife; but was told that it was a matter of too great moment for him to determine on before he had consulted his God. Almost all the night, and very often in the Day while they stayed near the ship, they sung and made many strange Gestures, which, as far as we could understand was a conversation which they held with some Being above the clouds.
To what I have before said of their Boats, I may now add that one is considerabley larger than the other, I think that on the starboard side is about ¼th part longer than the larboard one. Those which I have seen being 18 feet & 14 ft. respectively. They are fixed so as to approach nearer to each other at the head than at the stern, which is an useful precaution. The cross pieces are made fast to the two canoes with lashings made of the hemp plant, and they have wash boards above the solid part of the boats fastened in the same manner, so well, that very little water can come in between them. The tools which they have to perform this work with are made of a green stone which is very hard and bears working to an indifferent good edge, and are used by them either as chissells, axes or adzes, according as they are without or lashed in different positions to a handle. They had variety of fish hooks in their canoes some made all of wood, others all of bone & others again part of wood & part of bone, join`d by tying them together, their lines are made of the hemp plant some twisted as our cordage is with two, three & four strands or twists, and other platted like the lash of a whip. The former part of this day, fine weather, the latter cloudy with showers.

[Page 129]
1773
April 12th
Early this Evening, our Neighbours the natives left us and went to a different place from either of those we had before seen them at. Little wind with Cloudy weather & showers.

13th, 14th, 15, 16, 17
A most continual, heavy Rain, with little wind in the S.W. & N.W. Quarters: towards the latter part of Saturday, the wind came Easterly, and the weather cleared up.

18th
Today our friends the Natives visited us again, and early on Monday morning the father & Daughter came round to that side of the Ship where we had the Bridge from the Ship to the Shore, with a premeditated design, I suppose, to go on board the Ship, as they had never come there before although often invited & the way pointed out to them. Before the man ventured onto the Bridge he stood for at least 6 or 8 minutes talking in the most solemn manner, but whether to himself, the Ship, us, or some superior Being I dare not even hazard a guess: the Girl stood and seemed all attention. They then went over the Bridge & the Man struck several times against the ship with a green Bough which he had in his hand before they ventured over the Gunnell. I could not help remarking that they seemed distrustful of every thing which had been our work. A remarkable instance of it was the manner of their passing over the Bridge to the Ship which was made by lying two trees from the shore to the Ship's Gunnel, to which were nailed cross pieces at convenient distances, and planks laid over these lengthways to walk on. One of the first mentioned trees grew out of the Bank, horizontally over the water, under which we hauled the ship's Gunnel; the other was felled, and lay loose. Now although they might have walked with the utmost care across as safely along the Planks, yet rather than trust to them, they choose to crawl along the single Pole which grew fast to the Shore. Moreover when they got on board the ship they stamped on the Decks with their feet, as if to try whether or no they were firm nor did they venture into any part of her without using the same precaution.

They brought with them several things, of which we had seemed most fine, as presents to the Capt. and others who had been in the boat with him when they first made friends with him. They stayed the whole fore noon visited every part of the Ship with which they seemed much delighted; but most particularly so with a few sheep which we had yet left; and the Cats; the Dogs they seemed much in fear of; nor did they much excite their curiosity from whence I concluded they were no strangers to them.

19th
Cloudy at times but very fine weather. Winds light & variable easterly. The natives left us.

20th
Fine Clear Weather, with gentle Breezes easterly. Capt. Cook, and others returned from a cruse towards the head of the Bay where they had met with many more Indians, all of the same friendly disposition with those who left us yesterday.

22nd
Some Showers, but in general fine weather, all the former Part: the latter Cloudy with Rain. Capt. Cook informed me that it was necessary to get my things on board the Ship, as he intended to haul off into a convenient place & go away the first Opportunity.

[Page 130]
1773
April 22nd
Fine Weather, the wind easterly. Took down the Clock and got it the Iron Work and most other things on board the Ship; but left the Instr. in hopes of getting two or three Equal Altitudes by Mr. Kendall's Watch, and the rather as there was to be a visible eclipse of Jupiter's first satellite on the Saturday following.

23rd, 24
Pretty fine weather considering the Place but mostly Cloudy with now & then a shower: Gentle Breezes westerly.

25th
Very fine and clear, the wind westerly.

26th
Rain most part of the twenty four hours: Wind north-easterly. Hove the Ship out of the Cove.

27th
Cloudy, with heavy Showers, & moderate winds at north-west.

28th
Cloudy with Showers, and light breezes westerly. Got every thing which I had left on shore aboard the Ship.

29th
Light breezes westerly with Showers. At 2 o'Clock we got under sail, and at 5 anchored in another part of the Bay in 50 fathoms. At 22h hove up the Anchor again and made sail; and as we passed along one of Nature's most romantic scenes presented it self to our view, for on the top of a very high mountain, and they are all very high and steep,

Smooth to the shelving brink a copious flood
Roll'd fair and placid; where collected all,
In one impetuous torrent, down the Steep
It thundering shot, and shook the country round.
At first, an azure sheet, it rushed broad;
Then whitening by degrees, as prone it fell,
And from the loud resounding Rocks below
Dash'd in a cloud of foam, it sent aloft
A hoary mist, in which Sol's lucid beams,
Refracted, form'd a tripple coloured bow.
Nor could the tortured wave find here repose:
But raging still amidst the shaggy Rocks,
Now flashing o'er the scatter'd fragments, now
Aslant the hollow channel darting swift;
'Till falling oft from graduall slope to slope,
With wild infracted Course, and lessening roar,
It gained a safer bed.

I dare not write Thomson at the bottom. I know I have injured him; but it could not be avoided.

30th
About 6 oClock anchored near the Shore in 35 fathoms water and made fast to the Shore with a hawser. At 19h weighed & made sail with a gentle breeze at N.E. Frequent Showers.

[Page 131]
1773
May 1st
About two o'Clock bore away for a Cove where we Anchored in 30 fathoms and moored with an Hawser to the Shore. Light Breezes, variable, with drizzling Rain at Times.

2nd
Calm with Showers. About 21h wound up the watches & went up the sound to shoot with some of the Officers. This is the first Days amusement I have been able to take since I came to this Place. I might with great truth have said since I left England.

3rd
Most part Calm with heavy Rain. About 9 oClock we returned on board the Ship with not a dry thread about us. I am right served for repining in the Morning. We however brought with us great plenty of Ducks, Pidgeons, Curlews, Hens etc. etc. Indeed we have never wanted either wild-Fowl or Fish since we came here. In this Day's excursion we met with a Cove, if possible more beautiful and convenient than that where the Ship lay, & which had escaped the notice of all our surveyors; and a Cascade to which that above mentioned was no more like.

"Than I to Hercules"

And to which Thomson's description would have suited without the least Alteration; whereas I was obliged to make the Boys Lines entirely new for that, and no man living is less able than I am to bear an expence of that nature. But young Travellers, like young Wits, and young Girls too for that matter, are apt to let their imaginations run riot, and ever think the first that offers a Phoenix; whereas could they but have patience, another infinitely its superior would present it self. Probatum Est!

4th
Gentle Breezes variable with frequent Showers. About one o'Clock got under way with a light breeze then at S.W. which carried us into the mouth of a long narrow Passage or Sound which opened into the Sea; where we anchored, it falling Calm, in 30 fathoms Water and moored with a Hawser to the Shore. In the Night we had Thunder & Lightning attended with Hail & in the morning we saw the Tops of the Hills all round us covered with Snow. We had perceived for a fortnight past, that the Tops of some remote ones which are very high were covered.

5th
Cloudy with Smart Showers, and gentle Breezes chiefly south westerly. At two o'Clock weighed and got under way; and about Eight anchored near a Point which Sheltered us from the Sea in 16 fathoms water and moored with a Hawser to the Shore.

6th
First part Cloudy with showers & moderate Wind at North-west. In the Night we had much Thunder and Lightning with heavy showers of hail & rain & strong Gales of Wind: the latter part Strong wind & much Rain.

7th
Strong Gales of Wind at N.W. and Rainy Weather. The Tops of Hills which are almost perpendicular and whose bottoms are close to the Ship are now covered with Snow; yet none falls with us. We have instead thereof plenty of Rain & cold raw Weather.

8th
Brisk Wind, Variable & mostly Cloudy with Showers. I had frequently to day an opportunity viewing a Phenomenon which to me appeared very curious, viz., the descent of the Snow on the Tops of the neighbouring Hills. Very thick whitish Clouds were continually flying over us, and when they approached the Top of any high Hill began to extend themselves towards it in a sort of conical form, as if attracted thereby, & soon after the Top of the Hill was entirely

[Page 132]
1773
May ye 8th
covered. Then clouds grew visibly less dense by degrees, and in a little were entirely dispersed by the wind; and it then appeared that all that part of the Hill which had been hidden by the Cloud was covered with Snow.

9th
The former Part tolerable fine weather; the latter strong Gales from the N.E. with rain.

10th
First part and Night moderate wind with Showers of Hail and Rain: The latter gentle Breezes with flying Clouds. At 21h got under way with a fine Breeze at S.E. and at Noon the northernmost Entrance into Dusky Bay (out of which we came) bore E.S.E. dist., by estimation 5 miles. The outermost Island which lies off the said Entrance S.E. b. S. about one mile. The most southerly land in sight bore S. 28 °W. and the most northerly N. 8°E. The meridian Altitude of the Sun was 26°: 21' and consequently the Latitude 45°: 34½' S.

We are now (thank God) leaving this dirty and, on that Account, disagreeable Place, after a stay of near Six Weeks, during the greater part of which I was continually troubled with severe Colds, attended with a fever owing to my being almost always wet; and sometimes so bad that it was with the utmost difficulty that I attended my business. But before I quit it entirely it may not be amiss to give the best Account that I can of it, and what future voyagers may expect to find there.

And amongst the most material, he may be certain of meeting with an almost continued series of rainy weather, at least at this time of the year; owing, I suppose to the number and prodigious height of the Hills, which not only surround, but are also scattered up and down in the Bay: For every Island, of which there are almost an infinite number, is a mountain; and the Country a heap of mountains piled one upon another, untill you lose their Tops in the Clouds. There were some whose Tops I scarce ever saw while I was there. Their sides are almost perpendicular and covered with tall Trees almost down to the waters edge. The mold is black and very deep; evidently composed of decayed vegetables and so loose that I could make the plumb line of my Astronomical Quadrant shake when placed on the Stump of a large Tree by jumping on the Ground at 10 or 12 yards distance; and this I conceive to be the reason why we meet with with such great numbers of large trees, as we do, blown down by the Wind even in the thickest parts of the Woods. All the Ground amongst the Trees is covered with moss and Ferns, of both which there is a wonderful variety; but very little herbage of any other sort, and none that was eatable that we found, except about a handful of water-cresses, which Mr. Pattin, the Surveyor, found just before we came away. The Trees are of various kinds but all new to me, some, of a kind somewhat between the Spruce & Ceader large enough to make main masts for Ships of 500 Tun's Burthen, and others, which I dare say would make excellent Timber for the use of Cabinet makers, etc.; one in particular whose wood is almost as hard as Lignum Vita and as beautiful as Cedar. The Number and Variety of most Trees and shrubs are very great, most of the myrtle kind amongst which the pimento is very plentiful. But amidst all this great variety we met with none which bore fruit fit to eat.

[Page 133]
1773
10th
I saw not one of the Apple or Nut Tribe, & but one of the Plumb. This much resembled a small Olive and was very full of an oil of a yellowish colour, which smelt & tasted exactly like Turpentine. The the seeds of all the rest were of the berry kind; full of seeds and of a disagreeable tast. In most parts the woods are so over run with supple-Jacks, that it is impossible to force ones way amongst them: several which I have seen are at least 50 & 60 fathoms long. Some stems of the Ferns have stems 18 & 20 feet high and as thick as a man's thigh. The leaves, or rather branches, all shoot out horizontally at the Top and form a Circle at least 3 or 4 yards in diameter. These Fern Trees as we called them contradict part of the note p. 139 of Mr. Lee's Introduct. to Bot. in as much as the stem here spoken of, has the very characteristic which he mentions.

Of Fowl we had great plenty, amongst which we enumerate large and very beautiful Wood Pidgeons, Ducks of a variety of sorts, all exceeding good; one, which on account of its variegated plumage, we called the painted Duck was the most beautiful bird I ever saw. Besides these we had Teal, Curlews, Water hens, Parrots, Parakeets & innumerable birds of a lesser size: amongst these I must not omitt to particularize two or three, on account of their singularity.

First the Wattle-Bird, so called because of its having two Wattles under its beak as large as those of a small dunghill Cock, is considerably larger, particularly in length, that an English Black-bird. The Bill is short & thick, and its feathers of a dark lead-colour; the colour of its Wattles is a dull yellow, almost an orange-colour.

Another remarkable one was by the Gentleman in the Endeavour's Voyage, called the poy-Bird. This also is larger than a Black-Bird, but less than the Wattle-Bird. The feathers are of a fine Mazarine Blue except those of its neck, which are of a most beautiful silver Grey, and two or three short white ones which are on the pinion-joint of the wing. Under its Throat hang two little tufts of curled, snow-white feathers, called its poys, which is an Otahitu word for Earrings. On the whole, whatever idea this description may convey, the plumage of this bird is exceeding remarkable and beautiful.

The last I shall mention is the Fan-Tail. Of these there are different sorts, but the body of the most remarkable one is scarce larger than a good Filbert, yet spreads a tail of most beautiful plumage full ¾ of a semi-circle of, at least, 4 or 5 inches radius.

It appeared odd enough, at least to me, to see the Birds here so very familiar with us, as if they had not the least idea of our being their Enemies. It was not uncommon for them to perch on the barrel of the Gun in our hands, already loaded for their destruction. This makes either for or against the doctrine of Inate Ideas: for either they were possessed of none, and so perched there indifferent or else they were, & knew there was less danger to be apprehended whilst there, than when at a few yards from the muzzle.

The Hens, as we called them were a sort of Rail, which would stand & stare at us untill we knocked them down with a stick, so that at length it was accounted rather a discredit to to have shot one.

But our principle, and indeed an inexhaustable Store was the Fishery. A boat with a petty officer and six men constantly supplied the whole ship's Company with as much as they could eat, and yet used nothing to catch them with but hooks and lines. Nor was the plenty greater than the variety, of which most are, I believe, peculiar to this place; but there are not wanting several sorts that are well known; such as Mullet, Cavallas, Guard Fish, Horse-Mackerel, etc. Amongst the crustaceous Tribe we found Craw-Fish, Muscles, Cockles, Scollops, Whelks, Periwinkles, and many others whose Names I am not acquainted with.

[Page 134]
1773
May ye 10th
I met with no minerals or fossills, except a few inconsiderable pieces of Talk, but was informed that some of the Gentlemen met with a specimen of silver ore.

With respect to nautical and Geographical Remarks, I have little to say. My Business confined me entirely to the ship, and had it been otherwise, boats would have been wanting but I regreted it the less, as Capt. Cook, whose Skill & experience in these matters is perhaps inferior to none, made them his particular Business. But it may, I believe with great truth be said that no place affords a greater variety of safe and convenient Coves for a ship to lie in; better shelter from the Winds, or greater plenty of good water & wood.

I found by a great variety of observations, all of which agreed pretty well that the Latt. of my observatory was 45°. 47'. 26½" South; and by the mean of several Distances of the moon from the Sun, all nearly agreeing also that its Longitude was 166°. 18'. 09" E. But that if I took an observation of the D's Distance from a Aquila, its Longit. would be only 166°. 2'. 46½" E. I did rather chuse to reject this last, as being a doubtful observation. From hence as near as I can estimate the Southern Entrance into this Bay (by which we went in) is in Latitude 45°: 45¼' S. & its Longitude 166°: 10' E. The Latitude of the Northern one (at which we came out) is by a very good Observation by two Hadleys Sextants, 45°: 37' S. and as near as I can determine by Mr. Kendall's Watch in Long. 166°. 22' E.

I further found that the Variation of the Needle was 13°. 49' East, and the Dip of its South End 70°: 05¾'. The Variations were found by taking a sun's Azimuths, noting at the same Instant, not only his zenith distance, but also the Times by the Clock and in these Observations I employed 3 different Needles.

The Times of High Water on the full & large Days I found to be 10 h. 57' and 22 h. 57' respectively; and it rose & fell at the former 8 feet, at the latter only 5 ft. 8 ins. I cannot account for this difference; but am certain it is not owing to any error in the Observations.

The Longit. shewn by Mr. Kendall's Watch, supposing it to have gone mean Time since we left the Cape of Good Hope, which is what I have always allowed during the Run, is 164°: 29': 49½" E. But if its Cape Rate be allowed, the Longit. will be 165: 12°: 35¼' E. And if the Rate which was given to me by the Revd. Mr. Maskelyne be allowed, the Long. will be 163°: 47': 9" E. The two first conclusions suppose the Longit. of the Cape to be 18°: 23¼' E. & the last that Drake's Island lies in Long. 4°: 20' W. The Long. as shewn by Mr. Arnold's Watch (No. 3) allowing its Cape Rate is 165: 38°: 35¼ E. I found that Mr. Kendall's was now gaining 6".461 a day on Mean time; and that Mr. Arnold's was losing 99".061. I propose to allow these rates in determining the Longitude, untill I have an opportunity of trying them again. And shall further assume, that the Longitude of the Observatory in Dusky Bay was 166°: 18': 15; that Mr. Kendall's watch was too slow for mean Time at that place by 11 h.: 13': 07.3", and Mr. Arnold's by 15 h.: 20': 05", on April yr. 15th at noon, 1773.

[Page 135]
Tuesday, May ye 11th 1773

Weather
Mod. Wind & Flying Clouds
Do. do.
Do. showers
Little wind & Rain

Remarks
At 4 o'Clock Doubtfull Harbour bore bore E. to S. three or four Leagues, and the Northern Entrance into Dusky Bay S.S.E. to E. about 5 Leagues. By an observation taken at this time the Ship was 7¾' W. of my Observatory by Mr. Kendall's Watch, and 27 2/3' W. by Mr. Arnold's. As this last is manifestly wrong and Mr. Kendall's has generally gone pretty regularly is shall suppose that 166°. 10½' E., the longit. shewn by it is right and take my departure accordingly.

Weather
Mod. Wind & do.
Do. do.
Do. Showers

Wednesday, May yr. 12th 1773

Weather
Squally with Showers
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Northernmost point of Land in sight E.N.E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Heavy Rain
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

[Page 136]
Thursday May ye 13th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Moderate wind. Rain
Do. Do.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
The northernmosst land in sight N.E. b. E.

Weather
Do.

Friday, May 14th 1773

Weather
Little wind & Clear
Do. Do.
Do. Hazey
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
The most southerly land in sight S. b. E.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The most northerly land in sight N.E. 1/8 E.

[Page 137]
Saturday, May ye 13th 1773

Weather
Light Breezes & Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Rocky Point N.N.E. ¼ E.

Weather
Do. Showers
Do. Drizzling Rain
Do. Do.
Squally with rain
Do. with thick rainy wr.

Remarks
At Noon tacked, about three miles from the shore, Rocky Point bearing N. b. E.

Sunday, May ye 16th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind squally & rain
Do. Do. Do.
Do. Do. Do.
Do. Do. Do.

Remarks
Brought too Main Top sail to the Mast.

Weather
Do. Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Let out all Reefs and made sail.

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
Cape Farewell west by south ½ south dist. abt. 6 Leags.

Weather
Do. Do. Do.

Remarks
Stephen's Island E. ½ S. dist. 4 or 5 Leagues.

[Page 138]
Monday, May ye 17th 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & Hazey
Little wind & Cloudy
Little wind & thick Clouds
Moderate wind, Do.
Do. Flying Clouds
Do. Clear
Do. Do.

Remarks
This afternoon a Phenomenon happened which, as it was entirely new to me I esteemed curious.
The forenoon had been, in general clear, but subject to heavy squalls of wind, and thick flying Clouds, which moved very swiftly from S.W. to N.E. (the direction of the wind). About 4 in the Afternoon it became clear the heavens were almost covered with very black Clouds, particularly towards the West & north-west and presently after we saw several Tail-like appearances depending from the Clouds in that Quarter: these appendages where whiter than the Clouds which they appertained to, and increased gradually in length untill they extended, as near as I could judge, about one-sixth part of the distance between the Cloud and the surface of the Sea. The water under them began then to be violently adgitated, and soon after to rise up into the Air in a sort of spiral form, directing its core towards the small part of the cloud, which at the beginning of its adgitation had hung directly over it; but now, by a motion which they all had the contrary way to that, the wind had been was a little on one side. As the water rose the end of the Cloud descended, and in a few minutes they joined in the middle; after which the water ascended out of the Sea into the Cloud with great Velocity.

I think none continued entire more than 10 minutes. I saw four complete at one Time; but these were several which began, but were dispersed (by what cause I know not) before the Cloud and water joined. One, I was told, came within 30 or 40 yards of the ship; but I was then below: when I got on deck it was about 100 fathoms from her. I am preswaded that if it had gone over her it would have torn away her sails & yards; perhaps her Masts and standing Rigging also. At the time when this happened, the Barom. stood at 29 (70/80), the Thermomr. at 56°.

At 6h. St. Stephen's Island bore E. ½ S. dist. about 8 miles. At 13h. it bore W.S.W., about one mile, and at 19h. we were directly a breast of Point Jackson, about which time I saw the flash of a Gun up Queen Charlotte's Sound, and soon after several of us saw another, which convined us the Adventure was there, as we afterwards found to our mutual satisfaction, and that these two Guns had been fired by Mr. Bayley from the Island, where he observed as a signal of his having seen us. At noon sounded & found 35 fathoms, Cape Koamaroo bearing S.E. dist. about 4 miles.

May 18th.
Very little wind & fine weather. Towed up the Sound. About 2h. the Adventure's boat came on board with two officers who informed us they were all well, and had been in Charlotte Sound about six weeks. That they had made the South point of New Holland, where they wood, watered, and stoped 4 or 5 Days, after which they traced the Coast within a few leagues of the Place where Cap4 Cook fell in with it in his last Voyage. About 3h. came to an Anchor in 15 fathoms.

[Page 139]
May ye 18th 1773
In the morning weighed, and towed nearer the Shore, where we anchored in 11 fathoms and moor'd with a Hawser to the Shore. As soon as this was done I desired Capt. Cook to set me on Shore to make observations; but he informed me that we should not stop here, and that he had already desired Capt. Furneaux to order Mr. Bayley on board without delay.

19th. Little wind south-westerly and pleasant Weather. This morning early two Boats were sent to fish, and a party of Men to haul the Sean; but all returned without success. Capt. Cook was more successfull, who went to look for Greens, for he returned with the Pinnace loaded with wild Cellery, Lambs-quarter, & c, which it may be supposed were very acceptable to us after so long an absence from every thing of that nature. The Adventure's People also on their first arrival here had sown great quantities of seeds such as Mustard, Cresses, Radishes & c. and they were no churls of what they had. At noon I returned from a visit to Mr Bayley with a large handkerchief full of these last; which were not less welcome than the former.

20th. Moderate Wind Northerly, and Cloudy Weather. Having now reasons to suppose it would be at least 3 or 4 days before we were ready to sail, I got my astronomical Quadrant on shore at a Beach near the ship, and set up a Cask filled with water for a Stand, in order to get a few equal Altitudes, & if possible see what Rates the Watches now had: but the place was very inconvenient as the hills to the westward were so high that I could not get the sun later than about 20 minutes past two o'Clock.

21st. Wind moderate, & variable almost all round the Compass: mostly Cloudy.

22nd. Moderate Wind northerly, and Cloudy weather. Several of the Natives came on board us without any ceremony. I had conceived vast things from report of the New-Zeelanders to the Northward of Dusky Bay But must confess my self much disappointed.

23rd. Light Breezes south-westerly, and fine Weather for the most Part: More of the Natives on board: I cannot help again making a comparison between these and our late friends at Dusky Bay. These are importunate for every thing they see, and are as great thieves as the Eskimaux; but want much of their ingenuity in concealing it: whereas those at dusky Bay scarce ever asked for any thing, or ever received any considerable Present without making one in return, and that in Articles which to them must be very valuable. As to stealing, for aught that I saw to the contrary, their Creator had utterly deprived them of the Idea.

24th. Brisk Wind, Westerly and tolerable fine Weather, all the first part; afterwards Cloudy with Rain.

25th, 26, 27, 28, 29. Mostly cloudy with showers; the Wind generally pretty brisk, and chiefly south-westerly. The Natives, more or less of them on board almost every Day, to try what they could either beg or steal; and nothing came amiss. One of them ventured up to our Top-Gallt. Mast head; and, if we did not misunderstand him told us he could wish to go with us. He and three others refused to go away with the rest, and were left on board: In the Evening they had something given them to eat and had a clean dry sail spread for them under one of the Gang-ways where they lay down and slept 'till about 10 oClock when two old men came alongside in a Canoe to enquire for them. The Officer then on deck shewed them where they were & waked them: Two were preswaded by the Seniors to go with them, but the others absolutely refused, and lay themselves down & slept untill Morning seemingly without the least dread; notwithstanding it was afterwards discovered that one of them was in possession of a Vol. of Tom Jones, which he had stole out of an Officers Cabbin, who had done every thing he could to entertain them; and the other of a hand lead which he had found on the Quarter Deck.

[Page 140]
29th. When we came to wind up the Watches at Noon, it was found that the middle Lock to Mr Arnold's Watch was damaged, and could not be opened, I suppose by its being opened yesterday with a wrong Key through mistake. It was proposed to open the Box by sawing of the Staples in to which the Bolts of the lock shoot; but being apprehensive that the action of the saw might shake the watch too much, I proposed that the screws which fastn. these Staples to the cover of the box might be wrenched out, by introducing the blade of a screw Driver, & turning it round; and which was accordingly put in execution. As some damage was done to the Lock by this Accident, the Lock was taken off and the Watch trusted under the other two untill it was repaired.

30th. Moderate Breezes westerly and fine Weather. Many Natives on Board who stole the Centry's Lamp & 4 hour Glass, but had not address enough to get off with them undiscovered.

May 31st, June 1st, 2d. Mostly Cloudy with Showers. The Natives continue to come and go.
30". Fine Clear Weather with Moderate Wind at S.W. Several Cannoes of Natives whom we had not seen before came along side: these seemed to make a little more Conscience, or at least were more afraid of stealing from us, than what those we had seen before were.
Therefore One of our Boats which had been out on duty was chased by two Canoes of strange Natives.—Put the middle Lock on Mr. Arnold's Watch again.

4th. Moderate Wind southerly, and Cloudy Weather. Many Natives whome we had never seen before came along-side of us. Before they ventured to come very near us two of the Men who seemed to be Chiefs amongst them pronounced very loud and long Orations, at the same time holding in their hands a green bough, all the others observing much attention. Our old Neighbours who were now also on board us were much terifyed at the sight of them. The Men trembled the women made loud Lamentations; both joined in assuring us that these New-comers were their Enemies & would Murder them, if we did not shoot them with our Guns. We assured them in the strongest manner we could they should not be hurt; but it was to no purpose, for as soon as ever they saw them along side, they all sliped into their own Canoe, which happened to be on the other side of the Ship, and crept away close along shore for fear of being discovered. We afterwards found that there were seven large Cannoes of these New-comers, and that they came from somewere towards, if not actually from the Northern Island. They were much better Clad, and provided with Arms than any we had seen before, so that the other poor Wretches had Cause enough to be alarmed; but before we had done with them we brought them nearer on a par by purchasing all their weapons that we could, either offensive or defensive. Neither party came on board us any more; but we had reasons to suppose they had settled matters amicably as we frequently saw Canoes go from one place to another.

6th. Strong Wind at S.S.E. with rain. Computed the Rates of the Two Watches from the Equal Altitudes that I had taken here & found that Mr. Kendall's was gaining 9'.05 P. Day & Mr. Arnold's losing 94.158 P. Day on mean Time.

[Page 141]
June ye 6th 1773
The former part of this Day strong Gales at S.S.E. & Cloudy with rain: the latter Moderate Wind, south-westerly and tolerable fine Weather. At 16h. the Ship was unmoored, & about 19h. under way: At Noon the Two Brothers bore W.b.N. dist. about a Mile, & were in a line with Cape Koamaroo. The Latitude observed was 41°.08 1/3' S. The Adventure, once more, in Company.

Being and going to leave this land of Canibals, as it is now generally thought to be, it may be expected that I should record what bloody Massacres I have been a witness of; how many human Carcases I have seen roasted and eaten; or at least relate such Facts as have fallen within the Compass of my Observation tending to confirm the Opinion, now almost universally believed, that the New Zeelanders are guilty of this most detestable Practice. Truth, notwithstanding, obliges me to declare, however unpopular it may be, that I have not seen the least signs of any such custom being amongst them, either in Dusky Bay or Charlotte sound; although the latter place is that where the only Instance of it was seen in the Endeavour's Voyage. I know it is urged as a proof positive against them, that in the representation of their War-Exercise, which they were very fond of shewing us, they confessed the Fact. The real state of the Case is this. They first began with shewing us how they handled their Weapons, how they defyed the Enemy to Battle, how they killed him: they then proceeded to cut of his head, legs & arms; they afterwards took out his Bowels & threw them away, and lastly shewed us that they went to eating. But it ought by all means to be remarked that all this was shewn by signs which every one will allow are easily misunderstood, and for any thing that I know to the contrary they might mean they Eat the Man they had just killed; but is it not as likely that after the Engagement they refreshed themselves with some other Victuals which they might have with them? It ought farther to be remarked that I did not see one out of all the many who went through those Massacres, who did not stop before they he made the sign of eating; or that did it before some of us made the sign, as if to remind them him that they he had forgot that part of the Ceremony. This circumstance is brought as a proof both that they are, and that they are not Caniballs. One says, it is plain they Eat their Enemy after they have killed him, but are ashamed to acknowledge it, because they know we disapprove of it. The others say no; it is plain they looked on the Action as complete & stoped, untill you reminded them that it was necessary to take some refreshment after their Labour.

No stronger proofs, than the above have been seen by any person on board the Resolution this Voyage: but more substantial ones are said to have been seen on board the Adventure. One of the Gentlemen found amongst the Baggage in a Canoe, a raw human head, cut off close to the shoulders. This discovery is said to have produced much consternation amongst the People in the Canoe, who put it out of sight again with all possible expedition, nor could it be found afterwards. But hard as this circumstance is made to bear against them, it does by no means follow with certainty that this Head was preserved to be eaten: Saul, had he been a stranger to the Affair, might with equal justice have concluded that David was a Caniball when he was brought before him with the Head of Goliath in his hand. On the other side it must be admitted that after what is reported to have been seen here in the Endeavour's Voyage it was most natural to conclude that this head was intended for a very different purpose than that which David carried his up to Jerusalem for.

I cannot help relating a circumstance or two before I quit the subject entirely, as they tend to shew how far we are liable to be misled by Signs, report, & prejudice. Two Canoes of Natives came alongside one of the Ships & after they had traded such little matters as they had, went away out of the Sound. Sometime after One Canoe only returned & the people of the ship enquired ernestly what was become of the other. They made the same sign they do at the conclusion of their Exercise and it was immediately concluded that they had met with Enemies who had killed & eaten them; and it would certainly have passed so, had not the other Canoe returned a day or two after with

[Page 142]
every soul in it alive & well. Another circumstance is the following. A person on board the Adventure not only asserted that he saw one Indian killed by the others, but also related the particulars and manner in which it was done: nay it had gone so far on board our Ship with some as to suppose that a fire which we saw on shore, had been kindled to dress him at, & it was expected that Capt. Cook who was gone on shore at the place would surprize them in the very fact & probably bring on board some part of the unhappy Victim, to silence all unbelievers of this Custom for the future. The Capt. notwithstanding returned without having seen any thing of the sort; & it was afterwards certainly known that the man was not only un-roasted, but even alive and well.

Mr. Bayley having communicated to me the result of the Observations which give the Longitude of the Observatory 11h:35’:15.7”: E. I deduce by Observations made for the purpose, the diff. of Long between it & the Beach where I observed 11’.7 in Time West & of course the Longit. of the Beach it self 11h: 35’: 04”: E. I moreover find that Mr. Arnold’s Watch (No.3) was too slow for Mean Time on June 3rd. at Noon by 16h: 51’:22.56”: & that Mr. Kendall’s was too slow by 11h: 38’:17.97”: This last, allowing the mean of the two Rates at Dusky Bay and Queen Charlotte’s Sound gave the difference of Longitude between those two places 00h: 30’:26.1” the latter being so much East of the former. On these Conclusions, and a supposition the their rates of going are as mentioned close, I shall compute the Longitude of the Ship in future.

Therefore The difference of Longit. by Mr. Kendall’s Watch between the Sound & the places where the two Observations were made on June May the 16th. are 1°.15¾‘ & 1°. 14 1/8‘ and consequently as these Observations gave 173°..25½‘ & 173°. 03 3/8’ the Longit of the Sound will come out 174°. 41¼’ & 174°. 17½‘ East which are very different from Mr. Bayley’s.

Monday June ye 7th. 1773

Weather
Modr. Wind & fine weather
Do. Hazy

Remarks
At 6h. the Brothers bore N.N.W. 3 or 4 Leagues. Sounded and found no Ground with 75 fathoms.

Weather
Calm, Do.

Remarks
Therefore This Afternoon we were obliged to let Mr. Arnold’s Watch (No.3) go down as something had happened to it which hindered the Faser from Timing. What ever has been the Cause of this Accident it was not in that part of the work which is concerned in measuring Time, as it did not hinder the Watch from going quite down.

Weather
Do. Do.
Moderate Wind, Do.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
At 20h. Cape Pallisser N.E.½E.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
At Noon Cape Pallisser N.N.W.¾W.

Weather
Do. Hazy

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 143]
Tuesday June ye 8th. 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & clear
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
In order to determine the Longit. of Cape Palliser from the bearing at Noon which I had taken with great Care, I calculated the longit. of the Ship by the Watch both from the Morning and Evening Altitudes and reduced them to noon by the Ship’s run. The former from the Longit. of the Ship at noon 1°.. 9’.4, and the latter 1°. 13’.8, West from Charlotte Sound; their mean is 1°11.6’ E. The bearing and difference of Latitude between the Ship & Cape gave 8½‘ West, which being subtracted from 1°.11’6 gives 1°.03.1’ East from Q. Charlotte’s Sound or 174°. 49’0 East of Greenwich. I have taken the Latit. of the Cape as laid down by Capt. Cook, which I have reason for thinking is not far from the truth and much more to be depended on than the Course & run of the Ship which was made in a strong headway: but if any should prefer those they will be found to give the Latit. of Cape Palliser 21°. 41.9’ S and its Longitude 1°.5½’ E of Queen Charlotte’s Sound.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

Wednesday June ye 9th. 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & clear
Do. Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. & flying clouds
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. observed by Dist. D’a O = 179°.40 2/3’ E.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 144]
Thursday June ye 10th. 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & fine wr.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
A great Irregular Sea.

Weather
Little wind & thick with rain

Remarks
Lost sight of the Adventure.
Fired a Gun which was answered by the Adventure.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Saw the Adventure.

Weather
Moderate & Cloudy
Do. do.
Brisk wind with rain.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

Friday June ye 11th. 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & fine wr.

Remarks
A very great Swell from the SE.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Little wind & thick with rain
Do. do.
Moderate & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Let out all the Reefs and set the fore-top Studg. sail.

Weather
Brisk wind with rain

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 145]
Saturday, June ye 12th. 1773

Weather
Little wind & drizling rain
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail for the Night.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. Cloudy
Do. Foggy

Remarks
A great force from the North-ward.
Made sail.

Weather
Moderate wind Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

Sunday June ye 13th. 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy

Remarks
A great head force.

Weather
Squaly with drizling rain

Remarks
Bore down to the Adventure
Carried away the fore-top-Gallt.Yard in the Slings.
Tacked ship & shortened sail

Weather
Do. do.
Little wind & drizling rain
Do. Foggy
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail.

Weather
Do. drizling rain

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 146]
Monday June ye 14th. 1773

Weather
Little wind & Cloudy
Do. do.
Dr. small rain & foggy

Remarks
Lost sight of the Adventure & fired a Gun which she answered, and soon after we saw her again.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Little wind & small rain

Remarks
Variation observed by Azim. 11°. 43’ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Tuesday June ye 15th. 1773

Weather
Light air & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 11°. 16’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Moderate wind
Do. do.
do. do.

Remarks
A heavy Swell from the NE.
Took in the first Reef of the Top Sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 147]
Wednesday June 16th. 1773

Weather
Strong wind & rain

Remarks
Dble. reefed the fore & main Top Sails & handed the Mizen top-sail.
Got down the Top-Gallt. Yards.
Close-reefed the Top-sails.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Brisk wind do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Handed the fore top-sails.
A very hollow Sea caused the Ship to labour much, and a sudden jerk of the Tiller carried the man at the Wheel clean over it. Luckily the Officer of the watch caught it, replaced him, & put a man on the Lee side to assist him. They had been there scarce 10’ before another Jerk carried the man on the weather side over again. The Tiller staid not a moment a-weather but returned with such Velocity as brought the man on the lee-side over to wind-ward. At this moment the Lieut. catched it again; which was very fortunate, for the latter man got his leg jambed between a Spoke of the Wheel and the Standard which supported it, so that if the helm had had time to return it must have been broke to pieces. The Care of Providence, in fitting the Back to the [indecipherable] was never more conspicuous than in this circumstance. The man who went over to lee ward and of course had much the greater fall resembled much a Seal in substance and make and accordingly by his fall on the Deck made exactly the same squash that a Bag of Blubber would have done: on the contrary the other was a poor raw-boned Lad, whose every Bone rattled with the fall he got and must have been broke to pieces had he gone over to Leeward.
At 20h. set the Topsails close reefed.
The Adventure in Company

Thursday June ye 17th.1773

Weather
Brisk wind & hazy

Remarks
A great Head sea.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. & Cloudy at times

Remarks
Handed the Mizen Topsail.

Weather
Do. Squally do.
Do. do. do.

Remarks
Let the 1st. & second reefs out of the fore and Mizen Topsails and set the Mizen Topsails.

Weather
Do. do. do.
Do. do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

[Page 148]
Friday June ye 18th. 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & hazey
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Close reefed the fore & main topsails & handed the Mizen Topsail.

Weather
Do. & Cloudy at times
Moderate wind & Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Let out all reefs, and set the Top Gallt. Sails.
Set the ¾ Studding sails.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure to Windward.

Saturday June ye 19th. 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Down Studding Sails, and reefed the Topsails.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Close reefed the fore and main topsails. Handed the mizen Topsail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Let out all reefs, and set the Main-sail and Mizen Topsail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

[Page 149]
Sunday June ye 20th. 1773

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Took in the first reef of the Topsails.
Brought too for the Adventure.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Let out all Reefs, and set the fore Top Gallt. and Studding sails.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
The Adventure a-Stern.

Monday June ye 21st. 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & hazey

Remarks
A great Swell from the SE.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Down Studding sails, took in a reef of the Topsails and handed the main sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. Hazy

[Page 150]
Tuesday June ye 22nd. 1773

Weather
Light Breeze & hazey
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 9°. 03¼‘ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. Cloudy
Do. Rain at Times
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 10°. 05’ E.

Weather
Do. and very hazy

Wednesday June ye 23rd. 1773

Weather
Cloudy
Light airs & Cloudy

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 11°. 21’: E. [Therefore] When these Azimuths were taken the Sun was on the Starboard of the Ship: in all the Late ones it was on the Larboard Side. I find it necessary to explain my self a little farther on this head. The [indecipherable] [symbol] on the Starboard side: [symbol] on the Larboard side: [indecipherable] in Accurate: Since I do not mean that Variations resulting from Azimuths taken in the Morning and evening will differ, if the head of the Ship be towards the same point of the Compass in Each; but they will differ when the head of the Ship is, for example, in the north and the other the south, in which case the Sun will be alternately on the Starboard & Larboard sides in the morning & the Contrary in the Evening and in these cases I am fully persuaded the Variations will differ on board all Ships whatever & probably very considerably in some. But that will be of no consequence to the Steerage of the Ship provide all Azimuths are taken on the Binnacle as is usual: we ought however be carefull how we allow variations observed on board another, Ship. Handed the Topsails.

[Page 151]
Thursday June ye 24th. 1773

Weather
Strong wind & drizling rain

Remarks
A very great Sea.
Hauled up the Mainsail & brought too under the foresail and Mizen Stay Sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Handed the Mainsail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
More moderate do.

Remarks
Set the Main Sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Friday June ye 25th. 1773

Weather
Brisk wind with showers

Remarks
Set the Main and fore-top-sails close reefed.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Wore Ship & made Signal for the Adventure to do so likewise.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Let the 3rd. reef out of the fore & main topsails & set ye Mizen “S”.
Long. observed by Dist.[symbol] D… 197° 15¾’ E.

Weather
Moderate wind & hazy

Remarks
The Adventure astern & to Leeward.

[Page152]
Saturday June ye 26th. 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & Foggy
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. [symbol] D 197°. 17¼‘ E.
Bore down to the Adventure & then wore Ship.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. Rain
Do. Foggy with rain

Remarks
Let out ye 2nd. reef of the top-sails.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

Sunday June ye 27th. 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & Foggy
Little wind & Do.
Do. do.
Thick Foggy Weather
Little wind & Foggy
Do. do.

Remarks
Let out all reefs & got up the top-gallant sails, and set the Studding Sails.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 153]
Monday June ye 28th. 1773

Weather
Light Air & Foggy
Do. do.
Hazy
Do. Light Airs
Thick Foggy Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 7°. 54 2/3’ E.

Weather
Do. Thin Clouds

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Tuesday June ye 29th. 1773

Weather
Little wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by dist D’a Antares 199°. 10¾‘ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. Flying Clouds
Moderate wind & Cloudy with Showers
Flying Clouds Brisk wind

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 7°40’ E.
Longit. by Dist D’a Spicer 199°. 13½’ E.
Longit. by dist D’a Antares 199°. 59½‘ E.
Variation by Azimuth 8°. 45’ E.

Weather
Do. do.

[Page 154]

Wednesday June ye 30th. 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. Squaly

Remarks
Reefed the Top Sails.

Weather
Moderate wind & cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

Thursday July ye 1st. 1773

Weather
Moderate airs & Flying clouds
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 6°. 35’ E.
Longit. by Dist D’a [symbol] Aquil. 202°. 15½‘ E.
D’a Spicer 202°. 28½‘ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Let the Reef out of the Top Sails
Variation by Azim. 6°. 59½‘ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

[Page 155]

Friday July ye 2nd. 1773

Weather
Light breeze & Clear
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 5°. 59½‘ E. Brought too for ye Adventure.
Longit. by Dist. [symbol]’a D (a back Observation) 203°. 11¼’ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Moderate wind & showery

Remarks
A heavy swell from the Southward.

Weather
do. Hazy

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 7°. 10½‘ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Saturday July ye 3rd. 1773

Weather
Moderate Breeze & Clear
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 8°. 13’ E.
Took in the first reef of the Topsails.

Weather
Do. Rain
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Carried away the straps of the fore-top-sail sheet Block. Took in ye 2nd reef of the fore and main- topsail & handed the Main Topsail.

Weather
Do. thin Clouds

Remarks
Let out the 2nd. reef of the Topsails.

[Page 156]

Sunday July ye 4th.1773

Weather
Modr. breeze & clear

Remarks
A great head Sea.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. & squally with rain

Remarks
Took in the 2nd. reef of the main-Topsail, handed the fore-topsail and got down the Top-gallant Yards.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Set the fore-topsail.

Weather
Do. Rain

Remarks
The Adventure in Company. A great head Sea.

Monday July ye 5th. 1773

Weather
Brisk wind with rain
Do. do.
Do. showery

Remarks
The eastern Swell still continues.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Let out the 2nd reef of the Top-sails & set the Mizen Topsail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 157]

Tuesday July ye 6th. 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & clear
Modr. wind and hazy
Do. Thin Clouds
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Let out all reefs, and got the Top-Gallant Yards across.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. [symbol] a’ D 209 .. 04½ E by Back Observation..
The Boat was hoisted out, & and I went on board the Adventure to compare the Watches.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Wednesday July ye 7th. 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & hazy
Do. do.
Do. Cloudy
Very heavy Rain
Do. Clear
Do. do.

Remarks
Carried away the fore-top-mast studding sail Boom.

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds
Do. Squally with showers

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 158]
Thursday July ye 8th. 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & showery
Do. Cloudy
Modr. wind do.
Do. Clear
Little wind & Flying Clouds

Remarks
A heavy swell from the Southward.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Set the Studding Sail.

Weather
Modr. wind & Cloudy

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Friday July ye 9th. 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy
Do. do.
Brisk wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Handed the Mizen–Topsail.

Weather
Do. squally do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 2 .. 47 1/3 E . very doubtfull.
Took in the first and 2nd. reef of the fore-top-sail.
Set the Mizen-top-sail.-

Weather
Do. Rain

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page159]
Saturday July ye 10th. 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Took in the first reef of the Main Topsail & handed ye MizenTopsail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Let all reefs out of the Topsails.

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. 217°. 28’.
Variation by Azimuth 4°. 5’ E.

Weather
Do. Clear

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Sunday July ye 11th. 1773

Weather
Modr. wind & Clear
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 5°. 35½‘ E.
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Made Sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by dist D’a [symbol] 288°. 37’. E.
Variation by Azimuth 5. 36. E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 160]

Monday July ye 12th. 1773

Weather
Modr. wind & clear
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 5° 04 E.

Weather
Light Breeze do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Hauled up to Join the Adventure.

Weather
Do.

Remarks
Longit. by D’s dist in Famath 221& dge;. 11¼‘)
D’s dist in [symbol] 220°.24½) East.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

Tuesday July ye 13th. 1773

Weather
Modr. Breezes & fine wr.
Light airs & Cloudy

Remarks
Split ye Jib!

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Modr. breeze and cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 161]
Wednesday July ye 14th. 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. Squally do.

Remarks
Took in first reef of the Topsails.
Carried away the Clue of the fore-top–sail. Unbent it & bent another.
Tacked ship.

Weather
Do. do. do.

Remarks
Took in the second reefs of the Top-sails.

Weather
Do. do. do.

Remarks
Handed the Mizen Topsail.

Weather
Do. do. Rain

Remarks
Split the fore-topmast Stay sail. Bent another.
Close reefed the main–top–sail & handed the main–sail & got down the top Gallant Yards.
Fired a Gun & brought too under fore-sail Mizen Stay-sail.
Hauled up ye fore-sail.
Set the Courses & bore down to the Adventure.
Set the Top-sails.

Weather
More rain thick Fog

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Thursday July ye 15th. 1773

Weather
Sun Winds Fog

Remarks
A very great irregular Sea.
Lost sight of the Adventure.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Fired Guns at short Intervals for the Adventure.
Saw the Adventure, and soon after she joined us.

Weather
Strong wind & Squally
Do. with rain
Do. do. do.

Remarks
Let out the 2nd. & 3 reefs of the Topsails.

Weather
Brisk wind & Squally

Remarks
Set the Mizen top sail & got up the top gall yards.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 162]
Thursday July ye 18th. 2773

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Close reefed the fore-top-sail. Handed the mizen-top-sail, and hauled off the fore sail to let the Adventure come up with us.
Set the fore sail & two in two reefs of the main-top-sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Let the second reef out of the main-top-sail.

Weather
Do. Squally & showers of hail
Do. do.

Remarks
Let all reefs out and set the Mizen-top-sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Friday July ye 17th. 1773

Weather
Brisk wind with showers of Hail and rain
Do. do.

Remarks
Took in the 1st.& 2nd. reefs main & mizen-top-sails & close reefed fore-top-sail.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. Fair Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Let a reef out of each of the two Topsails.
Got up the fore top gallant yards.
Variation by Azimuth 6& amp;. 16’ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Carried away main-top-mast studding sail Boom.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 163]
Sunday July ye 18th. 1773

Weather
Light breezes & fine Weather
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 5& amp;. 5’ E.

Weather
Modr. wind & Cloudy
Do. Rain
Do. Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Monday July 19th. 1773

Weather
Modr. wind & Flying Clouds
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 5°. 33¼‘ E.
Brought too for the Adventure.

Weather
Do. Clear
Do. do.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Set the Studding Sails.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 6. 15¼ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 164]
Tuesday July ye 20th. 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. Squally
Do. Rain

Remarks
Took in the first reef of the Top-Sails.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Handed the mizen top sails.

Weather
Do. Foggy
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Wednesday July ye 21st. 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & Foggy
Modr. wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Set the Mizen Topsail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. Rain

Remarks
Set the Studding Sails.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Variations by Azimuth 4.. 51:: E.

Weather
Do. & fine Weather

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 165]
Thursday July ye 22nd. 1773

Weather
Modr. wind & Flying clouds
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 5°. 21½‘ E.
Handed the Mainsail: the Adventure being astern.

Weather
Do. do.
Squally with Rain
Moderate breeze & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation 5°. 34’ by Azimuth.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company. Tacked Ship.

Friday July ye 23rd. 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & Foggy with Rain
Do. do.

Remarks
Took in the first reef of the fore and Mizen-top-sails.

Weather
Strong wind do.

Remarks
Fired a Gun the Adventure being out of sight.

Weather
Brisk wind Cloudy
Exceeding hard squalls with rain

Remarks
Handed the Mizen-Topsail: Split the main Topmost Stay Sail.
Close reefed the fore-top-sail.
Split the main Topsail: Unbent it & the main topmost Stay Sail.
Set the Main-Sail.
Bent the Top-Sails & set the close reefed.

Weather
Brisk wind & foggy with Rain

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 166]

Saturday July ye 24th. 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & foggy
Modr. wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Set the mizen-Top-sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Let out the 2nd. & 3rd. reefs of the Top-sails.

Weather
Do. do.
Strong Gale & heavy rain
Little wind with rain

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Sunday July ye 25th. 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & cloudy wr.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. D’a Antares. 223°. 34’ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Bore down to the Adventure.
Saw one of those Birds usually called Tropic Birds.

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds & Hazy
Do. Cloud
Do. do.
Modr. wind & Cloudy
Do. Hazy

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 167]
Monday July ye 26th. 1773

Weather
Modr. wind & clear Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. [symbol] D’a 224°. 57½ ’ E.
Variation by Azimuth 5°. 24 2/3’ E.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Set the fore-top-mast-Studding Sail
Variation by Azimuth 4°. 39 1/3 ’ E.

Weather
Do. Hazy
Do. Clear

Remarks
The Adventure in Company

Tuesday July ye 27th. 1773

Weather
Light winds & clear
Calm do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. [symbol] a’ D 225°. 17’ E.
D & Spicer 225. 16¼ E.
D & by Aquila 224. 13¾ E.

Weather
Do. & Hazy
Light airs and cloudy
Calm do.
Little wind & clear

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 6& amp;.13’ E.

Weather
Brisk gale and clear

[Page168]
Wednesday July ye 28th. 1773

Weather
Mod. Wind & Clear

Remarks
Cleaned the Ship and smoked between Decks.

Longit by dist. [symbol] a’ D 224°. 39’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. very hazy
Do. do.
Do. Foggy with rain

Remarks
Tacked Ship.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Brought too hoisted out the Boat, and I went on board the Adventure to compare the Watches. Found that they had differed near three minutes since we last compared them.

Weather
Do. Hazy

Thursday July ye 29th. 1773

Weather
Modr. Wind & hazy
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. [symbol] a’ D 224°. 25’ E.

Weather
Do. thin Clouds

Remarks
Tacked Ship twice in half an hour: the wind veering quite round the Compass.

Weather
Do. drizzling rain
Modr. and Cloudy
Squally with showers
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Tacked twice for same reason.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

[Page169]
Friday July ye 30th. 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
A Tropic Bird was seen.
Tacked Ship.

Weather
Do. with Rain
Do. do.
Calm & heavy Rain
Brisk wind & small Rain
Moderate wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Saw another Tropic Bird.

Weather
Little Wind do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Saturday July ye 31st. 1773

Weather
Gentle breeze & flying Clouds
Do. do.

Remarks
A very great swell from the Northward.
Longit. by Dist. [symbol] a’ D 225°. 33 3/8 ‘ E. Back observation.
[Longit.by Dist.] D & Antr. 225 .. 24 5/8 E.

Weather
Do. do.
Moderate wind & Cloudy
Do. do.
Brisk wind do.
Showers

Remarks
Cleaned & Smoked between Decks.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 170]
Sunday August ye 1st. 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & squally
Do. do.

Remarks
Two Tropic birds were seen.

Weather
Do. do.
Modr. wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Let out all reefs.
Variation by Azimuth 5°. 16½‘ Et.

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
A great western Swell.

Weather
Do. thin Clouds

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Monday August ye 2nd. 1773

Weather
Little wind & pleasant wr.
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by D & Antares 226°. 51’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation 4°. 26’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 171]
Tuesday August ye 3rd. 1773

Weather
Light wind & hazy
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by dist. D’a Antares 227°. 4’ E.
Variation by Azimuth: 5 ..1 1/3 E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Calm & Clear
Moderate breeze & do.
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Wednesday August ye 4th. 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & clear
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 5°. 10’ E.
A great swell from the Southward.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Brisk wind do.
Moderate wind do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 172]
Thursday August ye 5th. 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & hazy
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. Clear
Do. Hazy
Do. do.
Light wind & do.

Remarks
Went on board the Adventure; compared the two Watches and found that they disagreed less than last Time.

Friday August ye 6th. 1773

Weather
Little wind & cloudy
Do. do. & rain
Calm with rain
Moderate wind & Cloudy
Do. do.
Brisk wind & drizling rain

Remarks
Set the top and lower Studding Sails.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 173]
Saturday August ye 7th. 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
The most wished for and long expected Trade–Winds seem now to have passed us. Our hopes began to grow very sanguine yesterday forenoon for about 10 oClock AM a thick haze began to rise on the Eastern quarter, and by noon was so thick & high that I could not see the Sea at times. We had had exceeding fine clear weather all the time that the NW winds prevailed.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Carried away the Studding Sail Yards.

Weather
Do. very hazy

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Sunday August ye 8th. 1773

Weather
Brisk Wind and Clear
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail: the Adventure astern.

Weather
Do. Hazy

Remarks
Heard a Gun from the Adventure: As we call it: Brought too Double reefed the Top–sails & at ½ past 7oClock made sail. At 8 oClock made the Signal and brought too on the Leeward Tack main Topsail to the Mast.
At ½ past 10 oClock spoke to the Adventure & bore away.

Weather
Do. do.
Moderate wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Let out all reefs and set the Studding Sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by dist. [symbol] Sun & Moon 322°. 15’ E.

Weather
Do. Clear

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 174]
Monday August ye 9th. 1773

Weather
Brisk wind with rain
Do. do.

Remarks
Down Studding Sails and double reefed the Top–Sails
The Adventure fired a Gun, which we answered
Made the Signal & brought too main-topsail to y. mast

Weather
Do.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Spoke with the Adventure & bore away.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. [symbol] Sun & Moon 220°. 17¼ E.

Weather
Do. & Flying Clouds

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

Tuesday August ye 10th. 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
In studding sails and reefed the main Top Sails.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. Hazy
Do. do.

Remarks
Made Sail
Discovered a small low Island bearing SW.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 6°. 30’ E.
By observations made with great care for the purpose I find the highest point of the Island is in Latitude 17°. 23¼’ ‘S. and by a mean of 5 Observations of the D’a dist. from the [symbol] none of which differed more then 25” on Long. it is in Longit. 218°. 07 1/3‘ E. Mr. Kendall’s Watch gave 217°. 56’ 2 reckoning from New Zealand; or 218°. 22’ 7¾“ reckoning back from Otahitu, which must undoubtedly be most certain.

[Page 175]
Wednesday, August ye 11th 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & fine Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Took in the studding sails and a reef in each Topsail.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Set the studding sails, and let out the reefs.
Discovered a Low Island at ½ past 17h. bearing W. b. N. and [indecipherable] above half a mile from us. Hauled the Wind.
At 17h. 56' the south-east cord, or point set before bore N.N.W.
At 19h. 26' its North-West End bore N.N.W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O a' E. 216°18' E.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
This Island & the reef which joins to it extends as near as I could determine from south Latitude 17°. O8.4' to 17°. 13 3/8' and its extreme Longitudes taking a mean of my 17 nearest Observations are 216°. 58 1/10' & 216°. 49 7/8' East. Mr. Kendall's Watch gave 216°. 30 1/3' & 216°. 22.1' East. But if I reckon back from Otahitee the Longitudes by the Watch will be 216°. 56°. 50" & 216°. 48'. 35" East: and these I account most certain; besides they are not materially different from ye Observations.

Thursday, August ye 12th 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & Clear
Do. Do.

Remarks
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Brought too main top-sail to the Mast & took in a reef of the Top-sails.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Bore away under the Top-sail.
Let out all reefs and made sail.
Saw a low Island bearing N. b. W. dist. about 10 miles.
Variation by Azimuth 6°. 45'. E.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Latitudes of the Above mentioned Island, as near as I could determine (for we could not set it again) is 17°. 06 1/3 S. The Longit. by Observation is 215°. 35 5/8' E. Mr. Kendall's Watch gave 215°. 22½' reckoning from New Zeeland and 215°. 49' East reckoning from Otahitee.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 176]
Friday, August 13th 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & Clear
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 5 o'Clock we saw a large low Island extending from S.S.W. to W.S.W. (Probably Chain Island). I make the Latitude 17°. 25' S., and Longit. by Observation 214°. 23¼' E. Mr. Kendall's Watch gave 214°. 10 1/8' or 214°. 36½' accordingly as we reckon from New Zeeland or Otahitee.

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
At 6 oClock brought too, hoisted out the Cutter & sent her a head under the Command of the first Lieut. with arms etc. to carry a Light and make signals if any danger should appear.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
Fired a Gun as a signal for the Cutter to come in.
Longit. by Dist. O a' D. 213°. 16¾' E.
Hoisted in the Cutter.
Carried away the Main-top sail Tye.

Weather
Do. Do.

Saturday, August ye 14th 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & hazy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Saw the Island of Miatea, or as it is generally called, Osnaburg Island, bearing S. b. W.
At 18h. 31' appr. Time it bore S. 12°. 19' W.
Variation by Azimuth 7°. 24' E.
Long. by dist. S. a' O, 211. 52 E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 20h. 59' Appr. Time Miatea bore S. 38°. 2' E. From the Bearings & the Run of the ship I compute that its Lat. is 17°. 52 1/3' S. & its Longit. by the above Observation is 211°. 52½' E. Mr. Kendal's Watch gave 211°. 55.8' & reckoning from Otahitee. These determinations relate to ye middle of ye Island.

Weather
Do. Do.

[Page177]
Sunday August ye 15th. 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & Flying clouds
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened Sail for the Night. The South End of Otahitu bearing WbS½S. and the North End WbN½N.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Brought too, in am topsail to the Mast.
Made Sail.

Weather
Almost Calm, Cloudy

Remarks
At 19th. hoisted out the Boats. Great number of the Natives coming after us in their Boats.
An incredible number of Natives round the Ship in their Boats all loaded with Cocoa-Nuts, Plantains, Apples and other fruits, which we purchased for Beads, nails etc. It is important to express how agreeable these fruits were to us who had not tasted anything of the kind since we left the Cape of Good Hope.

Weather
Calm, Clear

Remarks
Many Natives round the Ships with fruits, Yams etc. but our attention is now entirely diverted from Trading with them by the danger of our situation. The ship having for two hours past been settling very fast, directly on a reef which surrounds the Island.

Monday August ye 16th. 1773

The Ship still continuing to drive on the reef notwithstanding the efforts of all our Boats to tow her off, the warping machines were got out and all hands without distinction who could be spared from the Boats employed to work them; but I could not perceive that they were of the least service; and before two oClock we were so near the reef that the Sea broke almost close to us, and yet we could find no Ground. About 2 oClock found Ground & let go the Bower Anchor in 30 fathoms, but before the ship could be brought up she struck, and continued to do so with Great Violence. To add to our Misfortune the Adventure was not above a Cable’s length off setting directly down upon us at a great rate. All hands were employed getting out Hawsers & the Stream Anchor, which was let go at a venture a little way ahead of the Bower, which luckily found Ground but in what depth of Water we never knew. All this time the Ship continued to shake so hard that it was difficulty some times that we kept on our legs, and continued to do so all the Time we were heaving on the Stream Cable until it was almost directly up and down, when she ceased to do so. We were obliged to ride so for some time, expecting every minute the Stream Anchor would home and turn our attention to, if possible a more allarming circumstance than the former. The Adventure who was not 20 Yards from us had let go her Anchor, and yet more; but fortunately when she was not ten Yards from the Resolution she brought up and did not swing aboard of us; the two Ships riding along side of each other so near that a tolerable Plank would have reached from her Gunnel to ours. As she rode by her Bower, and had a greater scope of Cable out than we had we got her Boats, by the Assistance of which and our own the Resolution was towed off. The small Bower Cable was cut and we weighed the Stream Anchor as we went along. Between 4 and 5 oClock there came a gentle Breeze from off the land, which with our Boats, soon carried us into a place of safety. At 6 oClock every Hand which could be spared were sent with the Boats to bring off the Adventure, which was presently done with the help of the land Breeze. During the Night we stood on and off shore, and in the Morning made for a Bay which lay within NW point of the lesser Peninsular, and at noon anchored there, as did the Adventure soon afterwards. All this 24h. we had gentle Breezes and exceeding fine weather.

[Page 178]
August 17th.
Enquired of Capt. Cook about carrying on Shore My Observatory, and Instruments, who told me he should not stop long here, and that it would it would not suit him to have a Guard on shore, without which I did not think it would be prudent to go my Self, having already seen too much to think I was capable of guarding against such expert Thieves. I therefore set my Self to make the best Observations which I could on board the Ship. Light Breezes, chiefly from the Land and fine Weather.

18th.
Today Isaac Taylor, a Marine died and was buried. I find little time is left for a Man to come to life again. There is however one comfort attending burials at Sea, if they give no time for them to come to themselves before they are buried, there is no danger of their doing it afterwards, and I know not of a more dreadfull Idea which can come across a man’s mind, than that of being deposited on a Vault, merely on this Account. But to recur once more to Isaac Taylor whose disorder was a Dropsy. He was the first Person who has died on board the Resolution since we left England.
The natives still continued to bring us off plenty of Breadfruit, Cocoa-Nuts Bananas Apples Nectarines etc. which we purchased at a very moderate rate, viz: For 4 cocoa–Nuts for a Glass Bead and others in proportion; but notwithstanding all that has been said of Hogs & Poultry by former Voyagers I have not seen one of either sort which they would part from. Very fine Weather with light Variable Winds, but chiefly from the Sea in the Day-time & from the Land in the Night.

19th.
he weather pretty much the same as yesterday. Vast Numbers of Natives on board the Ship some to trade and others to see what they can steal: but I believe the value of those Articles which they have hitherto got by traffic bears but a very small proportion to that of those which they have stolen. Today one of them who had been admitted into the Great Cabbin because he was or pretended to be a Chief, stole something of value; but being detected he jumped over board, swam to his Canoe and made off. Several Musquets were fired over him to bring him back, but to no purpose and an officer was sent to bring back the Canoe; but it got on shore before he could overtake it, and when he attempted to Land, he was saluted with such a Shower of Stones, as made him glad to retreat, having in the Hurry gone without Arms, but a 4 pounder being fired towards them sent them all off into the Woods, & we saw no more of them this Day.

20th.
Very little wind all day from the South East and very fine Weather: the Heat being more moderate than on the former days which we have lain here. The Natives again in boats following both their Occupations as unconcerned as ever.

21st.
The former part little wind and fine Weather. Having Completed watering the Ship, Unmoored her at 5 & hove with the best Bower, and a whole Cable, intending to sail in the Morning for another Part of the Island; but instead of that we had a very strong wind from the NW which brought in a heavy Swell. The Natives still continue to bring us plenty of fruits, also Yams & another very agreeable Root which they call Tarra. It is not found any where, I believe, except here and in the neighbouring Islands; but we not got one Hog yet.

22nd.
Calm, and the Air extremely hot. The Capt. went in search of the Aree or King of the part of the Island whose name it seems is Owhyadoa to see if he cloud not procure some Hogs, for this Article so far as we can gather from those Natives who Visited is entirely under his direction, and they dare not part with one without permission form him. Several of our People being on Shore to Day, told us on their return that they had seen an European who ran directly from them into the Woods and that by his appearance they judged him to be a Frenchman some gentlemen who were then on Shore endeavoured to enquire of the Natives concerning him and understood that a French Ship had been late here whose Capt. had told them he would return in 5 months and that the person who had been seen was left behind untill his return

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23rd.
Light breezes from various points of the Compass, and Cloudy with Showers. The Capt. returned from his Visit to the King, Owhyadoa, having with much difficulty, and expince in presents & c procured three Hogs. He found him a very young Man, who had but newly arrived at his present dignity, on the death of his Father. He seemed, I am told much frightened, and was surrounded with a vast number of the inferior Arees, who had been on board the Ship, and who it was supposed had contributed a good deal to increase his fears in order to keep him from us. To day a more strict enquiry has been made into the Affair of the Frenchman by some who pretend to understand the language best, and they bring back a very different Story. The ship is now Spanish; and the Capt., whilst here, hanged three or four of his People, and this escaped from him. I for my part, after examining the two persons who pretend to have seen him, think there is not the least reason to imagine that the Man they saw was an European. His Dress was not in the least it seems different from the others, only he was whiter than they, and ran away into the Woods as soon as he saw them. On the whole that there may have been a French or Spanish Ship here since the Endeavour is very probable; but, in my opinion, all the rest of the story is a mere Fiction.
About 18h. we weighed, and were towed out of the Harbour by the Boats; but the Cutter was left behind under the Command of an Officer to try if he could not purchase a few Hogs, after they saw the Ship gone, and no hopes remaining of getting our Axes any way else. At Noon the Point of Land which forms the eastern side of the Bay bore S.W. about 2 Leagues distant, and the most northerly land in sight N.W. ¾ W. The Latitude Observed was I7°42'S. In general, the wind has blown off the Land from about 5 or 6 o'Clock in the Evening untill 9 or 10 in the Morning about which time a light breeze came in from the sea; but this was by no means regular, and indeed we had very little wind all the time we lay here. The Bay which we lay in here is called Oaiti-peha, and takes its name from the neighbouring districts.

24th.
At 6 o'Clock the northermost land in sight bore w|n and the most southerly S.b.E. We stood West & west ½ North about 10 Miles untill 12 o'Clock, when it fell calm and continued so untill 4 in the Morning, when a small breeze sprung up at east, but which soon veered round to the southwest & from thence W.b.N. & we then steered S.b.W. and at Noon Point Venus bore W.S.W. about 3 Miles.

25th.
About 2 oClock Mr Pickersgill joined us in the Cutter having picked up 8 Hogs at divers places as he came along shore & which was to us an almost invaluable Acquisition. About 4 oClock stood into Matavi Bay through the Passage which lies between the Larboard Reef & Dolphin Bank, and at 5 came to an Anchor in 7 fathoms Water and Moored with the stream Anchor. The wind beginning to slacken our boats & Men were sent to assist the Adventure, and about 7 oClock she also came safe to an Anchor. In the Morning a Party of Marines being sent on Shore as a Guard, I landed my Observatory and Instruments and begun to put them up on the Spot where Mr Green Observed the Transit of Venus in 1769, which has every advantage which could be wished for such a purpose. Light, variable Winds with flying Clouds.

26th.
Employed in putting up the Observatories & Instruments, & in making Observations. The former part Cloudy, the latter quite clear; Weather Very hot & little Wind.

27th, 28th, 29th, 30th.
Employed making various sorts of Observations on shore (Vide Observn. Book) During all which time we had little Wind and exceeding Hot Weather. It was generally Cloudy in the Afternoons and exceeding Clear all the forenoons. The Clouds began to Gather about the high Peak of Otahitee about Noon & soon after spread themselves towards the North untill the whole Hemisphere was covered by them. I scarce ever in my life passed four more agreeable Days than these were; for the few spare Hours which I had I never wanted amusement, as we had seldom less than four or five hundred of the Natives of All Ranks & sexes round our little Encampment, and I did not fail to profit by the Opportunity of trying and studying their Tempers & disposition with the Utmost Attention. It may surprize some to be told that an extent of 60 Yards in front, and near 30 in depth, was guarded from such a body of People by only 4 Centinals, with no other lines to assist them, but a rope stretched from Post to Post, & that often so slack as to lay on the ground; but it is nevertheless true, and that so effectually that

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none of us ever received the least insult or incivillity from any of them, nor did any of them come within our lines without leave: so terrible did Capt. Wallace make the sight of a Gun to the Inhabitants of Otahitee!

31st.
A little after 9 oClock in the Morning we began to take down the Observatories Clocks Instruments &c and by ½ past 11 they were all packed up and ready to put into the Boat, and by Noon they were all safe on board the Ship again.
Although so many Visits have now been made to this celebrated Island, and so much said of it by Europeans that it may be supposed nothing material can be added on the Subject; yet, since it appears to me that some particulars have either been misrepresented, or Misunderstood, and others omitted which I know will by many Persons be deemed Curious, I hope I may be excused in adding a word or two on the Subject & representing matters as they appeared to Me.
As to its Geography, little is left to be said. My Latitude of Point Venus does not differ two seconds from that which Mr. Green & Capt Cook had before found it, and its Longitude, for anything that I yet know to the Contrary is as exact. But the Occultation of jS Capricorni which we observed here will determine that point to great precission if the Moon's place shall have been observed at Greenwich, on the same day. The Bay of Oaiti-peha, where we first anchored lies in Latitude I7°46'28" S. and Longit. 0°21'25½" E. from Point Venus, that is in 210°46'36" E from Greenwich. The Latitude results from taking a Mean of 6 Observations of the Sun's Meridian Altitude and the Longitude is that shewn by Mr. Kendall's Watch, allowing its dayly gain on Mean time to be 8".863 a day, which is what I have found it to be, when on shore at this place.
I looked in vain for its situation in M. Bougainville's Voyage, although the Article Geographical situation stands in the Margin. He seems industriously to have concealed his Latitudes and longitudes during his whole run across this vast Ocean: the reasons for which are difficult to assign; since he has given Maps, which if any thing near the truth will be sufficient to defeat any purpose which he could have in concealing them. His Map of this place errs about 1°¼ in the Longitude of the north point of the Island; and, which is a much more unpardonable Error, about 1/3 of a Degree in its Latitude. It is very possible these errors may not belong to Mr. Bougainville, as I have only the English Edition, where the Maps are expressly said to be altered and Corrected, the Method of doing which by persons who have never seen the place, I must confess, I do not understand. It appears very strange to me how the Observations which were made here by Mr. Veron could differ 7 or 8 degrees from one another, unless there was some very great defect in the Instrument, or want of Care in the Observer. I should imagine, Observations of the kind which he mentions when made on the same day ought not to differ more than as many minutes.
The face of the Country, making some allowance for a warm imagination, is not badly described by Mr. Bougainville; but some allowances must be made by every Person, who has not seen the Place, and would not be deceived. That Gentleman seems to have been almost lost in admiration of its Beauties, and those of its Inhabitants all the time he was here. His colouring is indeed so high, that one cannot help suspecting a false glace; for his description suits much better with Mahomet's Paradise, than any terrestial Region: It must notwithstanding be allowed to be a very beautiful Island, and appears, no doubt, to great advantage after a long Voyage. I remember well that England does so, and run no risk in asserting that Otahitee would make but an indifferent appearance if placed beside it.
The Lands here do not seem to be considered as private property, any farther than as they are planted with fruit Trees, Yams, & c all which are manifestly so: and it appeared to me that the property of the land was rather determined by the Trees which were Planted on it than that of the Trees by the Land whereon they were planted, as in England. I conceive that it is lawfull for any person to raise a Plantation on Ground not already occupied by another.

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With regard to the Personal Beauties of the Otahitean Ladies, I believe it would be most prudent to remain entirely silent; since by a contrary preceedure I must expose in the grossest manner my own want of tast, or that of those Gentlemen who have asserted that 'they may vie with the greatest beauties of Europe', and that 'the English Women appeared Verry ordinery on their first arrival there' from this celebrated Cythera: but it is no new thing for the itch of writing to get the better of prudence; it will not therefore be wondered at if I run all risks of this kind to have the pleasure of describing their persons; at least, so far as there appears to be any national characteristic in it. In the first place then their stature is very small, and their features although rather regular have a masculine turn. Their Complexion is a light Olive, or rather a deadish Yellow; their hair is of a glossy black and cut short in the bowl-dish fashion of the Country People in England; but had here, I think, a pretty effect, as it corresponded more with the simplicity of their Dress than any other form would. Their Eyes are exceeding black and lively but rather too prominent for my liking. Their noses are flat especially towards the lower end and their nostrils in consequence wide, as are also their mouths. Their lips are rather thick than otherwise; but their teeth are remarkable close, white, and even. The Breasts of the young ones before they have had Children are very round and beautifull, but those of the old ones hang down to their Navals. I have no occasion to call in the Aids of Imagination to describe every part of them, down to their very toes, as there were plenty of them who were not solicitous to hide any of their beauties from our Eyes; but it may be best to stop here, and proceed to say a little in defence of their Characters, which have, in my opinion, been as much depreciated as their beauties have been Magnifyed.
All our Voyagers both French and English have represented them without exception as ready to grant the last favor to any man who will pay for it. But this is by no means the Case; the favours of Maried Women are not to be purchased, except of their Husbands, to whose commands they seem to pay implicit obediance, and therefore it is possible a thing of this kind may sometimes be done, where a woman happens to be married to a man who is mean enough to do it; but these instances are undoubtedly very rare, & cannot be charged to the woman's Account. Neither can the Charge be understood indescriminately of the unMarried ones. I have great reason to believe that much the greater part of these admit of no such familiarities, or at least are very carefull to whom they grant them. That there are Prostitutes here as well as in London is true, perhaps more in proportion, and such no doubt were those who came on board the ship to our People. These seem not less skilfull in their profession than Ladies of the same stamp in England, nor does a person run less risk of injuring his health and Constitution in their Embraces. On the whole I am firmly of opinion that a stranger who visits England might with equal justice draw the Characters of the Ladies there, from those which he might meet with on board the Ships in Plymouth Sound, at Spithead, or in the Thames; on the Point at Portsmouth, or in the Purlieus of Wapping. I am not altogether of opinion that the Natives of Otahitee are indebted to any of our late Voyagers either French or English for the Disorder above hinted at: there is not the least doubt but that they can cure it; and it seems difficult to conceive how they should so soon find out a remedy for a disease, which baffled the most skilful Physitions of Europe for so many Years. But be this as it may, the English have certainly got the credit of it, as the natives have no other name for it, that we know of, than Opay*-no-Britannia so that if the French had realy the honour of introducing it, as some suspect, they are now even with us for calling it the French-Disease.
*A Rotten Sore
Their notions of Religeon, like those of every other People whom we visit but for a short Time and whose language is but imperfectly understood by us are difficult to come at nor do I believe that any thing on this head is yet known with certainty, except that they believe there is one Supreme Being; but whether they think it Necessary to pay him any sort of Adoration I could not discover. I am told that they sometimes sacrifice Hogs which if true I suppose must be to him, though this does not absolutly follow. It is likewise said that they believe their servants, or inferior People, do not go to the same place of abode after death, which their Principals do, and if so, they must believe in a future state although their notions concerning it are directly repugnant to ours. It is now pretty certain that those who have asserted that they are Idolaters are mistaken: The Images which have been mentioned being merely men

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and considered by them in the same light as we do the Statue of a deceased friend, or the figures on his Monument. It was almost impossible to travill half a mile without meeting one of them, which they always told us distinguished a Mari or burying Place: and at the Burying places of some of their Chiefs, there are not only great numbers of these Images errected but also a very large Pile of Stones. I saw one in the Province of Oati-peha which contained more stones than would load both our Ships. Round these Maris they plant a sort of Trees, which at first I mistook for Cypress, and I am not yet clear, they are not something of that kind; on these they hang great quanities of fruits of every sort, which we understood were for the use of the departed; but it is very possible we might herein mistake their meaning as we often did in other matters. They do not bury their dead when they die, but erect a sort of shed not far from the House, and place the body under it on a kind of Bier, wraped up in some of their whitest Cloth: The Shed also is sometimes covered over & hung round with Cloth, and here the Body lies untill the flesh is mouldered away, & the Bones are then buried.
Their Government and Policy seem as little understood as their Religeon. I had no opportunity of forming the least Idea of it; and those who had, or pretended to have, differ so widely in their accounts, that I dare not depend on any. It seemed the opinion of most that the Whole Island is divided between two principal Arees, or Kings, Viz. Owhyadoa who governs the lesser, and Otow, who governs the greater Peninsula; to whom all the other Arees, of which there are great Numbers, are subordinate. When the Endeavour was here Toutaha (mentioned by M. Bougainville) governed this latter; but on the Accession of the present Owhyadoa, some disputes arose between the two Kings, which involved the whole Island in a War, wherein Toutaha and several of his Chiefs were killed about 5 Months before our arrival. As all European Ships before us had anchored in Toutaha's Dominion, and of course were supposed to be his friends; it might cause, or at least increase the fears of Owhyadoa whilst we lay at that part of the Island.
Some are of opinion that they are governed by a body of Laws, whereby those who offend against them are punished; but this does not seem absolutly certain. There is no doubt but that certain Crimes are punished amongst them; but I am rather inclined to think their punishment lies in the breast of the Chief. Murderers, for example, are put to death, and a Post set up in some conspicuous place to represent them, at which all those who pass by throw stones.
They sometimes, instead of eating their fruits as they grow, make a sort of Bread, composed of different kinds, broken & mixed well together; this they leaven & keep for a considerable time: it seemed very disagreeably sour to most of us; but some eat of it and declared that it was very good after they became used to it. They also make a very strong beverage from the roots of a plant of the pepper kind, which will intoxicate—they also eat the Root it self very greedily.
Next to their Plantations, which are their chief care, the manufacturing of their Cloth requires their greatest attention. It is a very laborious & teadious piece of Work, and falls entirely to the Women's share; but they employ none but the Old and ugly in works of so laborious a nature. It is made from the Bark of a Plant, which they cultivate with great Care, by beating the bark on a Plank with a piece of heavy wood made four-sided; the four sides are all fluted, but one finer than another, and they begin to beat it with the widest Side first and end

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with the finest. The Cloth is kept moist with water all the Time they are beating it. When it is finished to their mind, they sometimes dye it red or yellow with the Juice of two Berries which grow pretty common here. Since Europeans have come amongst them they sometimes print it in diverse figures by diping the End of a Bambo, cut properly, into the juice, in imitation of our Handkerchiefs; but they seldom ever wear it thus printed themselves, at least I never saw them do it.
On my first going on shore I was much charmed with the friendliness & seeming hospitality of these People: every one almost invited me to his house to eat Fruit &c. I could not resist their kind Invitations and had no sooner sat down amongst them but one beged Beads another nails, a third a Knife & a fourth My Handkerchief, Neckcloth, Coat, Shirt &c. I had stocked my self pretty well with some of the former Articles and thought it incumbent on me to give to every one of my kind Entertainers whilst they lasted, but was not well pleased to find many things gone which I had not the satisfaction of giving; but my chagrin was much greater on finding that I quitted no house without leaving more Persons unsatisfied than otherwise with what I thought generosity. I pursued this Plan the two or three first days: at the end of which I found my stock in Trade considerably decreased, & scarce any thing in return for it but Tyo! Tyo! As this way of proceeding seemed to give so little satisfaction to either Party, I resolved to alter my conduct for the future, and neither give or receive anything by way of Friendship; but proceed by the less noble & generous, though perhaps more just and equitable way of Barter & Trade, and have the utmost reason to be satisfied with having done so; as none left me without being pleased with his bargain, and I was generally pleased with mine, I walked where ever my bussiness or pleasure called me in company or alone, armed or otherwise as it might happen, and never had the least quarrel with, or received incivillity from one of them, whilst very few of those who acted on the score of friendship escaped without.
Could I have prevailed on my self to have again altered My Conduct, and make choice of a Tyo, or Friend, as is the Custom here, it should have been Ereti the Friend of M. Bougainville; not that he was less importunate & craving than others; but because he was much more sensible and in-teligent. He was also much more inquisitive & had a stronger desire to learn the Affairs & Customs of the Country we came from than any other that I met with; and this desire of learning made him, I conceive take more pains to communicate than any others were. It was the Day after our going a shore on Point Venus, that this good natured & sensible Man paid us a Visit at our little Encampment, and his name was a sufficient Introduction. We scarce ever after Breakfasted or dined without Ereti making one at our Table; and as he had but little of that prejeduce which hindered the rest of his Countrymen from even tasting our Victualls, they soon became palatable too him, but especially Tea, Biscuit, and butter, though it may be supposed the last was none of the Best. Nor would he refuse to take his Glass of Port, & drink to King George: It is true he made strange faces at the first, and some wryish ones even at the 3rd & 4th Glasse; but before we parted, Ereti could drink it with almost as good a grace as ourselves. Thus our correspondence continued to our coming away; we every day got from him some intelegence which we thought useful; he, I suppose, did the same, and we were pleased with each other; yet were not Tyo's or Friends, in their sense of the word. That I chiefly admired in him was the readiness wherewith he comprehended our meanings, and enabled us to understand his own; and it is to him that I am indebted for many of the foregoing Hints.

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No Animals besides Hogs, Dogs and Rats have yet been seen on this Island and it is highly probable that they are acquainted with no other, since they call every strange Animal they see by the Name of one of these. It may appear strange that we should get so very few Hogs at this place where all former Voyagers met with such plenty. Perhaps the Island has been drained by them & is not yet got replenished; Our Axes may not now be so valuable to them; or lastly, as they knew that it was Hogs we most wanted, it is probable they might Keep them up, as we did our Axes to increase the price.
We found Fowls almost as scarce as Hogs notwithstanding they were so very plentiful formerly. The Wild-Fowl are Ducks, Pidgeons, very beautiful green Doves, and a great variety of the Parrot-kind; one very small one was of the most beautiful Mazarine-blue that I ever saw. Besides these there were great variety of other small Birds which I did not Attend to.
The Fruits I have enumerated before, and a more particular Account seems unnecessary, as they are all very Common in every Tropical Country except the Bread-Fruit, and that is exceedingly well described both by Dampier and Lord Anson.
With regard to minerals I can say nothing. A few specimens of Iron Ore was found, I am told in Capt. Wallace's Voyage; possibly there may be great variety of others since People who Visit Countries for such short times, as voyagers generally do, have little opportunities of examining its subterraneous parts. Some pretend to know that the Whole Island of Otahitee has been produced by a Volcano. Islands may be formed so, and this amongst the rest for any thing that I know to the Contrary; but I saw no signs of its having been a Volcano, unless, it be the dark colour of the sand on the Beaches, and a few pieces of pumice stone which I met with at Oaiti-peha. And as to the Rocks being chiefly Lava, I can only say that I saw none which had the least appearance of being so, any more than the rocks in other Countries.
Such are the Hints which my short stay, and leasure from more important Bussiness have enabled me to give of this Island, and its Inhabitants; in all which I have endeavoured to come at truth, and can safely say that if I deceive, I am deceived, which in deed is very possible, where a person lies under the disadvantages of want of Time, and knowledge of the People's language he has to speak of. . . .
Before I set off afresh it may be proper to observe that I have found Mr. Kendall's Watch to gain 8.863" per Day on Mean Time whilst on Shore at Point Venus, which is not quite 2/10 of a second different from the rate it was going at in Q. Charlotte's souind, and that it was 13h. 49' 47.49" too slow for mean Time at that place on the 31st of Augt. at Noon, on which suppositions and that the Longitude from Greenwich is 14h. 1'. 40.8" East I shall compute the Longitude of the Ship in future.

Septemr 1st
At 4h the cutter returned from a Cruse round the Island in search of Hogs & brought two. At 5h weighed, & made Sail out of the Bay, and as soon as we were Clear of the Reef Brought too and Hoisted in the Boats. At half past 6 o'Clock, Point Venus bore ESE dist. about 3 or 4 miles. We then steered NWbW and WNW cited at Noon, Eimeo, or York Island bore SE and the Island of Huaheine WbN and the Latitude Observed was 16°51 ½ S. The former part of the Day Brisk Wind at North West; the latter a moderate Gale s Easterly, and flying Clouds.

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September 2nd.
We now steered West, & W.b.N. untill 5 oClock, at which time the Northern Point of Huaheine bore N.W.N. and the Southern Point S.W.b.S. & then hauld up S.S.W. under the Topsail. At 6 o'Clock brought too on the Starboard Tack Main-topsail to the Mast. At 12 Wore Ship & brought too on the other Tack untill 15h when we made sail & ranged close along the Reef which surrounds the Island in order to be as much to windward as possible when we came off the Harbour's mouth, where we had to work in through a gap in the Reef scarce more than a Cable's length wide, which we happily effected without touching on either hand: But the Adventure attempting to follow us when we were about half through unfortunately missed stays the first time and droped on the Larboard Reef. Cap Cooke immediately Ordered the Resolution's Lanch, with Hands, to her Assistance although it may be well supposed that we could but ill spare them in so perilous a situation as we then were, which by carrying an Anchor out for them on which they hove presently got them off; but as they were going to carry out another, the first came home, and she fell again on the Reef where she lay untill we got to an Anchor, when the Master was sent with Hands to assist them farther, and by Noon they were clear of the Reef, & soon after safe at an Anchor.

3rd.
The former part light Airs, and sultry Weather; the latter brisk Wind with flying Clouds. Many of the Natives on board trading for Hogs Fowls & Fruits: The two former Articles seeming to be much more plentifull here than at Otahitee. 47 Hogs & about twice the Number of Fowls being purchased already on board the Resolution.

4th
Moderate Wind and Pleasant Weather. In the Morning I went on shore and walked quite a cross the Island which is not broad here. Mr Bayley only was with me and our Road lay along one of the pleasantest Vallies that I ever saw. It is a perfect Orchard from one end to the Other, interspersed with the Houses of the Inhabitants who nowhere offered us the least incivillity unless picking our Pockets, unknown to us, may be thought so. They every where met us with Hogs and Cocks intreating us to purchase them; but I observed not one Hen was offered to us, nor did I see any about their Houses: a circumstance which I am at a loss how to Account for. Neither the Country or its Inhabitants that I could perceive differed in any respect from those we have left except that they seem to have a greater plenty of Hogs, and Fowls; & fewer Fruits.

5th.
The Winds & Weather much the same as yesterday. As this Island is deemed remarkable for the largest and best constructed Canoes of any in this part of the South seas, I was very desirous of seeing some of them, and accordingly went this After noon to view one which belongs to the Principal Aree of the Island. It was a double one; that is, consists of two Canoes, joined together by Cross-Beams in the manner that I have described those of New Zeeland to be. The Cross-Beams extended beyond the outer Gunnels of the Canoes both ways, and are again crossed by three longitudinal Poles on each side the Canoes & by one between them, there by forming eight squares in breadth, viz 3 on each side & two between; and as there are 19 of the Cross-Beams they form 18 of those squares in length. In each of these squares sits a Rower: the Cross Beams, which are neatly squared serve6 for their seats, so that there is room for 144 Rowers besides those who sit in the Canoes themselves to steer. This rowing Stage, as we may call it, is 66 feet in length by 24 in breadth. Towards the Midships rise four Pillars each 4 feet 8 Inches high, two from the outer Gunnel of each Canoe & support a stage 24 feet long by 10 broad. These Pillars are round, about a foot diameter, and ornamented with a sort of rustic Carving, not inellegant. This last mentioned Stage is for the fighting Men, for those large Canoes are never used but in

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September 5th
their Wars. The Length of the Canoe from Head to stern is 87 ½ feet & breadth from the outer edge of one Gunnel to that of the other is 3 feet & 2 Inches. Both Head and stern of each Canoe is ornamented with a Human Figure carved in their taste, that is a large head & Body with two Hand & two feet but neither Arms, Legs or Thighs. The hight of the Head, above the Keel is 4ft 10in & of the Stern 15 ½ feet. A transverse section of the body of the Canoe is in the Margin. The Parts as well of the frame-work as body, or hull are all fastened together with Cordage made of the outer rind of Cocoa-Nuts and they contrive by tying and cross tying to make their Joinings exceeding firm and tight.
We went from hence to the Kings House. He is a thin elderly man, very grave & seems to be much reverenced by his Subjects. Capt Cook gave him, when in the Endeavour a Copper Coin of some kind, and a piece of lead with His & the Ship's Name & c and told him that if any ships like the Endeavour visited his Island to shew them that & they would be friends with him: accordingly the first time Capt Cook saw him he pulled the Coin & bit of lead out of a small Bag & presented them to him, Capt Cook returned them to him along with some Medalls & a piece of Copper on which were the Names of the present ships & the Year & c, with the same advice which he gave him before, which there is no doubt will be treasured up by his family for many Generations if no ships Visit this Island sooner.

6th.
Moderate & very pleasant Weather. Having long had a great desire of examining the Reefs with which all these Islands are surrounded I took the opportunity of this Afternoon's Low Water, & being landed on it, I walked for about the space of half a Mile that being as far as I could get without going above the Middle in Water. It seems to be one continued firm Rock of very hard, white Stone, not much unlike Limestone except in hardness, and almost every where covered with large Bunches of Coral, mostly white, here & there a Branch only of a pale dullish brown. The Rock is every where full of small holes, which are larger underneath the surface & every one contains a Shell with a live fish in it; the greater part of which are too large to be got out, so that it appears either that the Shell is much grown since it got into the Hole, or that the Rock has grown over it: which of these is the Case more expert Naturalists must determine. — I suspect both.
In the Morning, unmoored and made sail, Having Purchased upwards of 400 Hogs at this small, but plentiful Island. I have but one remark to make of its Inhabitants, which is that they seem much less dependant on their Arees than those of Otahitee.
The Name of the Bay which we lay in is called Owharre; and I found the Latitude of the Ship when at Anchor to be 16°44’ by a mean of 4 Meridian Altitudes of the Sun. Its Longit from Point Venus as shewn by Mr Kendall's Watch 1°32’32”W that is 208°52'38"E from Greenwich. The Variation of the Compass I found to be 4°:50 ¾ E
At Noon the Northermost point of Huaheine bore N.E.b.E and the Eastermost point of Uliateah W.b.S. The Latitude Observed was 16°50 2/3’S

7th
The Weather very fine, with moderate Winds South Easterly, which is the point it bew from all the time we lay at Huaheine. At 6 o'Clock the East end of Uliateah bore S.S.E. ½ F and Ohamaneno Harbour, which is that we are bound for N.N.E.dist 4 or 5 Miles.

[Page 187]
September ye 7th
but Night coming on, we were obliged to tack and stand off and on untill morning when we attempted to work in; but finding it impracticable, the Anchor was let go off the point of the starboard Reef, and warps carried Out a head to warp the ship through the Passage into the Harbour. This Passage is an opening in the Reef, like that at Huaheine, and something wider than that; but so great a surf sets in here on the Reef, that great quantities of Water washes over it into the space which is between the Reef and Island and this Water having no way out again but by these small openings, causes a strong Current to set out at them continually, unless perhaps for a small space of time when the Tide of Flood runs strongest. At Noon the Resolution's Launch and Hands were sent to Assist the Adventure.

8th.
Went on Shore with Mr Pickersgill to look out for a proper place to erect the Observatory on, as Capt. Cook talked of having a Tent & Guard on Shore, & found one Convenient enough: indeed the principal thing to be considered was the End of the Solar Eclipse which will happen on the 16th Inst which I had some notion might possibly be seen here. We afterwards walked a considerable way up the country, along the banks of a small River which runs into the Bay where the ships lie, and found it not inferior to either of the Islands which we have left in any respect whatever. Brisk Wind at south-East & very hot on shore but pleasant enough on board the Ships.

9, 10.
Moderate Wind South-Easterly with Showers.

11th.
The former Part Moderate Wind; the latter more brisk, at South and SE, with Showers.—This Afternoon went with some of the Officers to the House of the Aree of the district where the Ships lay, and who is Brother to the Principal King, or Aree of the Whole Island; where we were entertained with what they call a Heava; that is an entertainment of Music and Dancing. The Music was performed on three Drums of different Tones, arrising from their different magnitudes & form. The Base, or deepest toned one, was about 12 or 14 Inches high, and perhaps as much in diameter: The Middle one was about 2 ½ feet high and about 10 Inches diameter; and that which had the highest tone, might be near 3½ feet high and about 7 or 8 Inches Diameter. Their Heads were made of Shark's Skin and braced much in the same Manner as ours are, only without the slides which ours have for bracing and unbracing; and they beat them with their fingers. The Dancing, as we called it, was performed by two Girls, one of whom is the daughter of the Aree, and accounted a capital Performer, under the direction of an old Man, who travills from place to place for that purpose, and is said to have made great improvement to this divirsion, on which account he is held in great Esteem. The Dress of the Performers is extraordinary and very grand on these Occasions. It consists of a great quantity of their cloth of different Colours bound very tight around the Waist with Cords, and disposed so as to stand off sideways from the Hips in a vast number of plaits or folds, to the extent of a fine Lady's Hoop-Peticoat when in a full Dress. To this is attached a parcel of Coats below, and a sort of Waist coat without sleeves above. Round the Head is wound a great quantity of plaited Hair in such Manner as to stand up like a Coronet, and this is stuck full of small floures of various colours which renders the Head-Dress, in My opinion, truly elegant. The Dexterity of the Performers does not lie in the Motion of the feet; but in that of the Hips, Arms, Fingers and Mouth: all

[Page 188]
September 11th
which they keep in motion together, and ye principal skill of the performer seems to lie in contriving to have these several motions as opposite & contrary to one another as possible. These Motions they perform in all attitudes viz standing sitting kneeling Lying, as also with their face in all directions as East, west &c. all which is directed by the above mentioned old Man who not only gives the word, but sets the example also. In this part of the Heava, although the principal with them, there is little very entertaining to an European Eye. The wriggling of their Hips, especially as set off with such a quantity of Furbeloes, is too Ludicrous to be pleasing, and the distortion of their mouths is realy disagreeable, although it is for this the young Princess is chiefly admired. Her face is naturally one of the most beautiful on the Island; but in these performances she twists it in such a manner that a stranger would some times realy question whether her right Eye, Mouth & left Ear did not form one great Gash passing in an oblique direction across her face.
It may be supposed this Exercise is too violent to last long at a time, especially in this climate and under such a load of dress: accordingly the dancing seldom lasts longer than about 5 or 6 Minutes at a time, and in the intervals we were entertained with the performances of 5 or 6 men which sometimes consisted in a sort of figure Dance, wherein they were very care-full that their feet kept exact time to the Drums; at others in the action of short Interludes, which were in my opinion by far the best parts of the Performance, and realy diverting. The subjects of these were sometimes tricks which they are supposed to put on one another either through cunning, or under cover of a dark night; but oftener turn on intimaces between the Sexes, which at times they carry great lengths. These Parts were performed exceeding well, the command which they have over their Features and Countinance is extraordinary, and I am not certain that I ever saw Mr Garrick perform with more propriety than one Man did most of his parts. Their Stage, if I may be allowed the Expression, is under a Shed, open in the Front, and at one end is their dressing Room; into, and out of which they make their exits, and enterances as occasion requires; & the floor is spread with very curious Mats: In short, it may be said without exaggeration, that the Drama is advanced in these Islands, very far beyond the Age of Thespis.

12th.
Finding it not possible to observe the Sun's Meridian Altitude on board the Ship, on Account of the Island of Otaha which intercepted the Horizon I took the Astronomical Quad on shore to a point of Land which I had previously determined to lie due East from the ship by means of the Azimath Compass, and Allowing the Variation to be as at Huaheine the distance between the two places is about a Mile & Quarter, and found the Latitude to be 16°45’20” S by taking a mean between both Arches. Out of Curiosity several of us dined to day on shore off a Hog, dressed by the Natives in their own Manner which is as follows. After killing and cleaning the Hog, or rather whilest this is doing, a fire is lighted in a large Hole which is dug in the Ground, wherein there are a great many Stones: the Stones being thus Heated, the fire and part of them are taken out, and the Hog being wraped in several layers of Plantain Leaves is laid on the remainder, and covered with those Stones which had been taken out: another layer of leaves is laid on the Stones and then the whole covered up very close with Earth. The heat of the Stones soon bakes the Pig, and its sweetness and the and the cleanliness where with they do it are beyond comparison. Very hot filthy Weather with light Airs at S.E.

[Page 189]
September 13th.
Brisk South-Easterly Winds and Pleasant Weather. The Launch was sent under the Command of an Officer to Otaha to purchase Fruits for a Sea Stock. One of the Natives being caught with two shirts which he had stole from a person who was washing, the Capt. ordered him to be tyed up to the shrouds & punished with two dozen Lashes. He had served one so before, and it is remarkable that none of the Natives who were round the Ship in their Canoes would let either of them come into them; but they were both obliged to swim to the Shore. I observed the Latitude again to day & found it 16°.45’.26”: the mean of this and the former 16°.45'.23”S.

14th.
Strong Gales with Showers. Dined with ye Aree at his house, along with the two Capt. & Officers of both Ship, off a Hog dressed in their way, which has been described before; after Dinner we were entertained with another Heava; and parted in the strictest friendship at Night when we came on board; the King embracing every one severally. In the morning we were very much surprized to find that not one Canoe came off to the ships, which they never failed to do before as soon as it was light. On inquiry, it was found that two of the Adventure's People had been left on shore all Night, & it was immediately concluded that they had had some quarrel with the Natives & were murdered. A boat went on shore directly, and found them at the place where they had been left the night before by the Person who ought to have brought them off. They had been kindly treated by the Natives & taken care of all night; but not one of them was now to be found any where on this part of the Island; and their Houses were striped of every thing valuable. Capt. Cook afterwards went on Shore and after much search found the Chief, who sometimes said that we had murdered some of his People, near where the Ships lay, and at other times that it was our boats people who had done it at Otaha; but nothing certain could be made out; and Capt. Cook endeavoured to preswade him that no such thing had happened, which he seemingly believed & promised to return to his House.

15th.
Strong Wind with Rain. None of the Natives came near us all the former part of this day. The wind blowing very strong, at 6 oClock hove on the larboard Hawser, & let go the small Bower Anchor, being moored before ony with the Stream & a Kedge Anchor, and veered out to half a Cable. In the Morning the Natives returned as usual.

16th.
Strong Gales at S.E. and showery weather. This evening the Launch returned from Otaha, having been detained there by the blowing Weather, which was directly against them. The Natives just as familliar as before, nor have we been able by any means to discover the Cause of their late fright. At 18' past 6 o'Clock in the Morning the Sun rose over the land; the Eclipse being entirely over. At 7 AM weighed and sailed out of the Harbour; and at Noon it bore E.N.E. and the Latitude observed was 16°..51 1/3'S.
It appears from my observations, that the Latitude of Ohamaneno Harbour is 16°. 45’ 23” S. and its Longitude by a mean of 3 observations of the D’s distance from the Sun is 108°. 15’. 18” E. By Mr. Kendall’s Watch it is 208°. 25’. 33”. The shortness of the time, & the regularity with which the Watch seems to have been going ever since we left New Zeeland makes it highly probable that the latter isnearest the truth, although the Observations were [indecipherable] very good ones. the Variation of the Compass seems only to have been 3°. 56 2/3’ E. I used two Compasses. Should any one be so far of my opinion as to think these observations may be affected by being made on board the ship, for their satisfaction, I remark that the ship’s Head was south-easterly, and of course the sun, in the morning, was on the Larboard Bow, 2 in the evening on the starboard Quarter. The same is to be observed of those made at Huaheine.

[Page 190]
Friday, September ye 17th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & fine weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 3 oClock the Island of Maurua bore N.W. ½ W. dist. abt. 9 Leagues. At ½ past it bore N. 23° W. at which time I took some altitudes of the sun, and deduced the Longit. of the ship from Mr. Kendall’s Watch 207° 47¾’ E.
Brought too main-topsail to the Mast.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
Made sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

Saturday ye 18th 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & Clear
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail and brought too for the night.

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail.
Variation by Azimuth 8° 26 1/3’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

[Page 191]
Sunday, September ye 19th 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & fair weather
Do. do.

Remarks
variation by Azimuth
(8. 36 1/3) E.
(8. 18)
Shortened sail and brought too for the night.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

Monday, September ye 20th 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & cloudy
Do. rain

Remarks
Shortened sail & brought too for the night

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Much thunder & lightening ran up the Conductor.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. Foggy

Remarks
Made sail.

Weather
Do. cloudy
do. very hazy

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

[Page 192]
Tuesday, September ye 21st 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & Clear
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by dist. D a O 204’. 06 3/8’E.
Variation by Azmith 9. 12¼ E.

Weather
Calm & Cloudy with Lightening
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Brought too

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(8°. 34 1/3’) E.
(7. 58)

Weather
Do. do.

Wednesday, September ye 22nd 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. Rain
Do. do.

Remarks
Brought too.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail.

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Saw land bearing S.S.W.
At noon the land bore S.S.W. ½ W. and was just visible from of the Quarter Deck.

[Page 193]
Thursday, September ye 23rd 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. Rain
Brisk wind & Cloudy with Rain

Remarks
At 2h. 34’ appr. time, the east end of the Land, which proved to be two small Islands bore S 40 1/3° E. At 2h. 35’ the west point bore S. 8° W. The course was altered from S.S.W. to W.S.W. at 2h. 51’ At 3h. 24’ the East point bore S. 85° E. At 3h. 26’ the West point bore S. 69° E. and the most southerly part bore S. 62½° E. at 3h. 27 3/8’.
From the above I compute that the north-east point is in latitude 19°. 16¾’ S. and Longit. 201°. 30¼’ E. and that the north-west Point is in Latitude 19°. 17’ S. and Longit. 201°. 28.1’ E. These Longitudes are deduced from a mean of 4 observations of the D’s dist. from the O some of which were taken before, and others after seeing these Islands. Mr. Kendall’s Watch gave 201°. 00.3’ & 200. 57 3/8 E.
We did not land on the abovementioned Islands, which are of a moderate hyht, and covered with cocoa-nut, Bread-fruit & other Trees: they appeared exceeding beautifull but we saw no signs of any Inhabitants being on them.
Let out all reefs and made sail.

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

Friday, September ye 24th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & Squally
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. observed by Dist. O a D 199°. 32 3/8’ E.
Shortened sail for the night.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Brought too.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
This morning Bread was served to the ship’s company for the first time since we got to Otahitie: our stock of Bread fruit, Plantains &c. being all expended.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

[Page 194]
Saturday, September ye 25th 1773

Weather
Fresh Gale & Cloudy

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O a D 198. 50¼ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Brought too.

Weather
Do. with drizling Rain

Remarks
Made sail.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

Sunday, September ye 26th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Brought too.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail.
Variation by Azimuth 11°. 42’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. Fine Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

[Page 195]
Monday, September ye 17th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. & very Squally

Remarks
Brought too

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail.
Variation by Azimuth 9°. 44’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

Tuesday, September ye 28th 1773

Weather
Moderate Wind & fine wr.
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Carried away the larboard Clue of the main top-sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

[Page 196]
Wednesday, September ye 29th 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & fine wr.
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 10°. 42¾’ E.
Unbent the main-topsail and bent another.
Shortened sail.
Longit. by D’s dist. from a Aquila 190°. 14½’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
The Bread was got upon deck to air; having grown very bad & full of vermin.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

Thursday, September ye 30th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail & brought too.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Let out all reefs.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

[Page 197]

Friday October 1st 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & fine weather

Remarks
Saw land bearing W.S.W.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 6h. shortened sail the north Point of the Island bearing then N.W. b. W. & at south Point S.W. We were now about 5 miles from ye nearest part of ye land.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
A small Island opened of the south point of the large one.
During the night stood on and off the south point of the Island.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Split the mizzen Topsail. Bent another.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Made Sail and passed between the south point of the large Island which we now found to be Tasman's Middleburg, and the small one above mentioned. The passage between them is about 2 Miles wide. We ranged the SW side of Middleburge about ¾ of a mile from ye shore, and at 20h the SW Point bore N.b. ½ E. dist about 2 Miles, & the north point was then opening. As soon as we got the length of the Point we hauld the Wind & at 1/2 past 21h anchored about half a Mile from the Shore in 25 fathoms, and a sandy bottom: the north Point bearing N.N.E. ½ E , the South-West point S. ½ W and the highest part of the Land E.S.E. The south point of Amsterdam Island W ¾ N, its north-east point N.W.N. ½ W & a small Island which lies of that point N.b.W. We saw no signs of any inhabitants untill we had got near the South West point, probably on account of its being early in the Morning. We than saw one or two standing on a sandy Beach, and soon after several hundred who ran along the Beach as we sailed along. Soon after we had doubled the point we saw several Canoes coming off to us, on which we shortened sail for them to come up, and one Canoe in which was an elderly man and two young ones was presently along side. We made signs for them to come on board & hove them a rope to tow their Canoe by and the old man hesitated not a moment but was up the side before the Canoe was well up with us and sat himself down on the quarter deck in the midst of us without the least concern; and the others instead of holding longer by the rope and waiting for him, let it go and paddled away with as much seeming indifference as if they had left him amongst the best known friends in the World. He had plenty of Nails and beads given to him, with the former of which he seemed much pleased but made no account of the latter. Every thing that was given him he put on the Crown of his head, before he put it away. He brought in his hands a root of the Pepper Plant which grows at Otahitee, and of which they make there their favorite Drink, and gave it to the first man he met on the gangway, and seemed by the manner in which he presented it to think it of great Value. Soon after several others came on board with the same freedom and unconcern, amongst whom was one, who by the bustle they were in at his appearance, we judged to be of some consequence amongst them. He happened a small misfortune when about 200 Yards from the ship, in his Canoe being overset; but that in itself was of small consequence he left it to the care of his people and swam to the Ship without difficulty or ceremony. The greatest misfortune was we did not at first know his Majesty again in this trim, and his Attendants, Cloaths & pepper-Plants which should have announced him were lost & left behind with the Canoe. But he was a sharp man and soon found up the Mistake & also a remedy; he began to order such of his Country men as was on board before him with so much Authority and was obeyed so implicitly that we knew who he was and waited not for his presents which he had sent for before we shewed him proper respect. As he was naked and seemed very Cold the Capt. made him a present of a large Piece of red Cloth to cover him which pleased him much & others gave him Nails and other things equally agreeable. His presents which he had sent for were not long a coming; they consisted of a sort of glazed Otahitee Cloth, fine Mats & roots of pepper-plants, and he soon distributed them about him. It is remarkable that

[Page 198]
Octr. ye 1st
that every one who came off to us brought with them roots of the Plant above mentioned, which they presented to us, taking at the same time much pains to let us know its virtues and value, and seemed much surprised that we set none by it, which they attributed no doubt to our extreme ignorance.
As soon as the Ship was at an Anchor, the Pinnace was hoisted out and the Capt. went on Shore. The Chief went with him and they were met on the rocks by many hundreds of the Inhabitants who seemed to welcome them on shore with Huzzas. The Chief took him to his house where he was regaled with a Cup of their Liquour which is the same & made from the same Plant as that at Otahitee. I mean the pepper-tree. The Cup was a large leaf having its sides folded up in a very curious Manner so as to hold the Liquour. But this hospitable King did not stop here but gave him fruits to bring off & shewed him every other mark of respect & friendship that seemed in his power; and when the boat came off it was almost loaded with Cloth, Mats & other things which were hove in by the People.

2nd.
Immediately after dinner I went on shore with several of the Officers; the two Capt. were gone before us. We found them at the house of the Chief where a great number of the Inhabitants were assembled, and singing in a manner which was very agreeable, accompanying the Music with clapping their Hands so as to keep exact time to it. Not their voices only but their music also was very harmonious & they have a considerable compass in their Notes. There were some also who played on very large Flutes, which they fill with their noses as at Otahitee; but these have 4 holes or stops, whereas those of Otahitee have but two. They had also an Instrument which they blow into with their mouths composed of 10 small reeds of unequal lengths, bound together side by side, as the Doric Pipe of the Ancients is described to have been done.
After I had stayed some time here I left the house and walked up into the Country with intent to have seen the farther side of the Island but was obliged to return before I had gained the highest ground for fear of being left on shore by the boats. I had notwithstanding an opportunity of seeing a considerable extent of the Island, which every where seemed fruitful and pleasant, and the roads as good as in England. When I got back I found the Capt. still with the Chief, who had ordered great quantities of fruit & Yams to be dressed for them to take on board. About 7 oClock we took our leaves of this friendly Man, who with all his family attended us down to the boat and about 8 o'Clock the next Morning weighed & sailed from this beautifull and agreeable Island.
Our knowledge of the place and people must were it only on account of our short Stay, be very imperfect; but I endeavoured to see as much and make as many Observations as possible. The Men seem in general strong and raw boned, pretty tall, and well proportioned, of a complexion some what between the Inhabitants of Otahitee & those of America, that is of a very light copper Colour. The women also are rather tall, well formed, and have very regular and soft features, but are rather to fat to be esteemed beauties any where but in Holland; and this fault seems general. They are certainly the most lively laughing creatures I ever saw, and will run dancing & chattering by ones side without the least invitation, or consideration whether or no they are understood or any Answer returned to what they say provide one does but seem pleased with them. They appeared to me strictly modest, I mean in general; for there were here, as well as in every other place that I have been at, some of a different Stamp. The hair of the women was all black; that of the men was of different colours & sometimes on the same Head, caused, I conceive, by something which they put on it; and both sexes wear it very short and combed upwards. Many of

[Page 199]
October ye 2nd
the Boys had it cut quite close except a single lock on the top of the Head, and a small quantity on each side which was quite long. Their Eyes are of a dark hazel, and beautifull enough, but their teeth are not in general either so white or even as those of some other Indian Nations. Their Dress is very simple, consisting only of a piece of cloth which is wraped round their waist & hangs down below their knees; & both men and women go naked from the Waist upwards except some ornaments of Shells & beads of mother of pearl, Tortoise shell & c which they tye round their necks & Arms, and are very pretty so that it is no wonder that they dispised ours, trumpery glass ones.
Their Cloth is of the same texture and made from the same materials as that of Otahitee, but stronger & not so fine, and they have a method of glazing it so as to turn Wet for a considerable time. From the unsuspicious manner in which they first came on board, we had entertained a notion that the Idea of an Enemy was unknown to them, but on going ashore we found that they had several sorts of very formidable Weapons, such as Clubs and spears made of very hard wood; also very good bows, but their Arrows were but indifferent being made only of light reeds tiped with a bit of hard wood: Had our first conjecture been right it should seem that they would have had no need for those Weapons of offence. We could not help remarking one very singular circumstance amongst them, which was this: the greater part of them both Men and Women had lost the little finger of one hand; some had lost both; and others one, and a joint or two joints of the other. I endeavoured much, but in vain to find out the reason of this custom. It was neither peculiar to Age or sex; nor, that I could discover a mark either of rank or infamy, none seemed ashamed to have it known whether they had lost them or not but were equally ready to shew us the state which their Hands were in: moreover, notwithstanding I expressed great surprize at the circumstance none of them seemed to take any pains to remove it.
We saw no Animals here except Hogs, and of these not many. They have exceeding fine Poultry of the large white dunghill kind, and some ducks both tame and wild; besides these they have exceeding fine, large blue wood-pidgeons, and great variety of Doves, some very beautifull green ones, with a patch of scarlet feathers on the top of the head; besides these I saw several other sorts both large & small birds that seem peculiar to this Island.
Their Fruits are Cocoa Nuts, Plantains & Bananas, of each of which there are great plenty and all very good. There are some Bread-Fruit, but it is not so plentifull here as at Otahitee & the society Islands. We found here also, a fruit not much unlike a Lemon, except in size: this being as large as a Cocoa-Nut. It is known both in the East and West Indies, and called there a Pumplenose; & sometimes in the latter Place, a Chaddock from the Name of the Person who first carried them there. I saw also a few Nectrines but they were not yet ripe. These are the same sort which we had at Otahitee & c, and are, I am told, called in some places the fever Fruit, being sometimes reccommended in that distemper on account of their fine cooling qualities. I saw no Roots except Yams, which are excellent, but were not plentiful no it was a wrong season. There were pro-digeous large patches of them newly pla[nted and] fenced in.
I found, by a single observation for each, that the Latitude of the Ship at Anchor 21.20 ½ ‘ S and the Longit. by Mr Kendall's Watch 184°..55 ¾ “E. I had not opportunities of making more Observations but these were very good, and May be depended on.
This Island is called Eaoowe by the Natives, is of a Moderate hight, or rather what may be called high towards the south End, and rises gradually up from the sea, by a gentle

[Page 200]
ascent to the highest part of the Island, and thence descends in like manner, on the other side, and that so regularly, that a furrow might be run with a Plough from one end of the Island to the other. For the space of half a mile or more from the shore it is one continued grove or Orchard of fruit Trees, not planted at random as in Otahitee but in Enclosures, neatly fenced in with a sort of Lattice work made of reeds. The Doors to these Enclosures hang in a frame, and are sometimes made of thin boards, and at others of a Mat stretched on a light frame of wood; and every ones House is in the Midst of his little Plantation. Their Houses have not so good an Appearance on the Out side as those of Otahitee, but they are infinitely more so on the Inside being entirely lined both Top sides & floor with very fine Mats. Between the Enclosures belonging to different Persons, are Lanes, or Roads to go inland, or from one Plantation to another.
The Inland parts, are but very thinly inhabited; but it is not over run with Wood as in most other uncultivated Countries, but appears from the Offing like a very large Park, laid out by design, having here and there large Clumps of spreading Trees, in others very large single ones, and here and there long ranges of high Cocoa Nut Trees planted in rows on either side of the roads.—Most of The young Plantations of Yams which I saw were amongst the large Clumps of Trees just Mentioned the trees in the Middle of the Clumps being cleared away for that purpose; but all the outside ones are left standing, as if by disign, I suppose probably to afford shade & shelter to the Plants. The Yams are planted in rows at equal intervals each way so that each plant is in the Corner of a square. Every part of the Island, which is not planted is covered with long grass, seemingly of a very good Nature, and the soil is a very deep red Earth.
We saw not a drop of fresh water on the Island, but make no doubt of some being there, and I ground my opinion on the height of the land, which must afford Springs. Moreover the Inhabitants brought off to us great quantities of sugar-Cane which those Gentlemen who have been in the West Indies said was in every respect as good as any there and yet we saw none growing; and I have been told these Canes will not thrive without great plenty of water.—It has moreover been ever held impossible for an Island which is inhabited to be without water; but I do not build much on that head here, the Natives being so well supplied with the milk of Cocoa Nuts as to render this invaluable Article to other countries of less use to them: moreover their whole diet being fruits renders them less liable to thirst.
We steered W.N.W. from the Place where we lay, and when we had run about 7 Miles the North point of Middleburg bore E.b.N. & the south Point S.E.. The south point of Amsterdam W. b S. and the North East point N. ½. W. The two extreme points of Middleburg subtended an angle of 57°.8' by Hadleys Quad & I had intended to have veryfied all the other Angles in like Manner had not a misfortune rendered one unable untill it was to late. We now steered wsw and were abreast of the south point of Amsterdam when we had run 5 Miles. We now set every point as it opened & carefully measured the run from point to point by the Log & my Watch; and we set the most remarkable ones again as they shut in, from whence the annexed Map of the Two Islands is drawn.

October 3rd
About 4 o Clock we came to an Anchor under the West side of the Island, in 18 fathms water, foul rocky Ground, and full of Coral. About 2/3 of a Cable's length from the Shore; and having veered out two Cables, let go the Coasting Anchor in 40 fathoms.
When

[Page 201]
October 3rd
moored, the point South of us bore S.17°W and that north of us N. 40°E The dist. between these points is about 4 Miles. There is a reef of rocks which is bare at Low-water, about 2 ½ Miles without us bearing W.N.W.
The Island of Amsterdam, called by the Natives Tongatabo is low land except towards the South End where it may be said to be of a moderate height: It has not by much so beautifull an Appearance as Middleburg, when sailing along it purely I conceive on this Account. These two Island, like all those of Otahitee Huahine, & c. are encompassed with reefs of Coral Rock, only with this difference that they are here close to & form the Shore, whereas they are there at a considerable distance from it with deep water between. It appears highly probable to me that the shores of those Islands may in time extend themselves to the reefs also, as these now do.—But this by the bye.
As soon as we got near the shore, the Natives of this Island came off to us in the same familliar manner as those of Middleburg did: they all likewise brought with them by way of present, or I now rather think sign of Peace, the same root, and were equally surprized that we held it not in more estimation. In the Morning they began to bring off to us plenty of Fruits, Yams, Pigs, & Fowls which we purchased for nails. It is very remarkable that Knives and Hatchets were very little esteemed either here or at Middleburg; probably for want of being acquainted with their use: Nails either large or small, were very good Articles at both places, I suppose because they were acquainted with their use as we saw several at Middleburg which must have been left here by Tasman, as we know of no other person who has visited these Islands before us.

4th.
This Afternoon went on Shore, and walked a-cross the Island to Maria's Bay, to get a sketch of that side of the Island. An odd Circumstance happened at my landing. At least 4 or 500 of the Natives were assembled at the landing place, and as the boat could not come near the shore for want of Water sufficiently deep, I pulled of my Shoes &c to walk through, and when I got on dry ground put them down betwixt my legs to put on again, but they were instantly snatched away by a Person behind me. I turned round & just saw him mixing with the Crowd but it was in vain for me to attempt following him bare-footed over such sharp coral rocks as the shores are here composed off; and my situation and Attitude may be supposed ludicrous enough. The Boat had put back to the Ship & my Companions had each made his own way thro' the Croud, and I was left in this Condition alone, and not able to stir from the place without having my feet cut to pieces with the Coral. Luckily I saw Capt. Cook coming along with one of their Chiefs, to whom I made my complaint he went into the Croud found out the thief and brought my shoes back in a little Time. I rewarded his Trouble & honesty with a large nail, and both parties were well pleased.
This Island seems to be in the highest state of Cultivation; there being scarce a foot of land which is not enclosed and planted, except the public roads, one of which runs between every Plantation, and as they are nearly square the roads generally intersect each other at right angles. At several of these intersections there are square areas of perhaps 50 to 100 yards left unenclosed, and planted round with large spreading Trees. Towards the upper end there is raised a small mount, whose top is enclosed with a sort of low parapet of square flat hewn Stones, set on edge in

[Page 202]
October 4th
the ground, and the mount is ascended in the front by a flight of steps of the same stone. All the Top of the Mount within the Parapet is covered with gravel, or very small pebbles, and in the midst is a Building, which I took the liberty to enter, and found in one of them two, and in another one small wooden Image, and in both they were placed on the left hand as I went in. On the Middle of the floor lay a heap of black small pebbles (those which covered the floor of the building & top of the mount were of the common brown Gravel) disposed into an Oval form, which took up about 2/3 of the breadth & length of the whole Building. The building might be about 4 Yards long & near 3 Yards wide. The Gravel both within and withou. was kept very neat & clear from weeds, and the Area before the Mount was a level patch of short green Grass. The Trees which are planted round these places were of three sorts: the largest not much unlike a Beech-Tree; the other two, were a sort of Palm-Tree, and the Cypress which I have remarked to be planted near the burying places of Otahitee and the Society Islands.—
I returned on board in the evening, after making a considerable circuit in the Island, without meeting with the least insult or incivillity from any one of the Natives, after that which happened at my landing. Although I met with many hundreds in the roads I travelled & that frequently in large bodies, and we no more than three without any Arms except my Gun, of the effects of which they seemed totally Ignorant.—In the Morning, a petty officer going on shore in the Pinnace to trade for fruits & c they seized the boat, unhung the Rudder, & took away some of the Implements belonging to her by force, on which the Officer of Marines was ordered on Shore, with his Party, to protect the Boat while trading.

5th.
This afternoon I stayed on board to have got altitudes of the Sun for finding the Time & Longitude by the watch; but was hindered from doing anything by the Cloudyness of the Weather. In the Morning I went on shore to try the height and time of the Tides & found that the Water rose 3 feet 11 1/8 Inches, and that it was high water about half past 11 oClock AM. When I was coming off again & had just got into the Boat I observed a Jacket which belonged to one of the boats Crew go over the boats side: I saw no visible Agent; but looking over the boats side after it I saw one of the Natives runing away with it under water. I immediately alarmed the people in the Boat & several shot was fired after him by the Midshipman & Coxswain but in too much hurry & Confusion to take place, and the rogue would certainly have gone clean off with it, had it not been for an Officer who was on shore that fired a load of small shot into him, after calling to him repeatedly to quit it without effect; but he droped it instantly on being hit with the shot, and walked off. It is remarkable that although there were several hundreds of the natives about us when this happened, yet not one of them seemed concerned or alarmed at our firing. I must confess I should not have been sorry to have seen this Man drop, for an example to the rest, for their Audacity and our lenity had been Carried now to such lengths that they had several times attempted to take the Cloaths of our Back: one thing is very remarkable, that those things were done nowhere but at the landing Place; our people being never offered the least incivillity when walking

pages 203 and 204 are maps

[Page 205]
October 5th
inland, although they frequently did it alone & un-armed. I had scarce got on board the ship but one of them was discovered coming out at the scuttle of the Masters Cabbin, out of which he had taken his and the Ship's Log books, his Daily assistant, Nautical Almanack & some other Books, there were two or three more in the Canoe & though they were called to repeatedly & threatened with being fired at if they did not bring them back, they paid not ye least regard, but made off as fast as they could untill a Musquet Ball was fired through their boat, when they threw the books overboard & all jumped after them. The Books were all picked up, & the Canoe filled & sunk along side.

6th.
Went again on shore to look after the Tyde and found that it was low-water, a little before 6 o'Clock in the Evening; and that the fall was nearly the same as the rise. The shore being flat, and the water in consequence thereof ebbing out a long way; I could think of no other Method of finding the rise & fall but by setting up a Pole at the low water mark and my level at the high water Mark, and after adjusting it very carfully taking the difference of the Altitudes of the Center of the Telescope & the part of the pole which was cut by the horizontal! wire. As I was very particular not only in adjusting the Instrument but also in placing the pole to agree with the Vertical wire of the Telescope & in measuring the difference of the Altitudes afterwd I am willing to flatter myself that I am not much wrong, notwithstanding its disagreement with Tasman's relation. It should also be observed that Tasman was here about two days after the Change, & the D was now almost three-quarters old. Our Times of high-water differ also Considerably: For Tasman says that a S.W. Moon makes high-water; from whence I cannot suppose that the time of high-water preceeded the Moon's southing more than 3 hours, whereas mine preceeds it about 4.4 hours; and I am certain I cannot have erred more than a quarter of an hour, or 20 minutes, and I hope not so much. I have said so much on this head, because I have found Tasman's relation so very accurate in every other respect both here and at New-Zeeland. He is perfectly right in what he says concerning the direction of the flood & Ebb; and the reason seems to be that this is the direction of the Coast in this part of the Island. I cannot help remarking that Tasman says not a word of the Reef which lay without. Can it bee that so accurate an observer neglected this? It is impossible to miss seeing it. Or can it be that this Reef has increased so as to become visible since he was here? I beg Tasman's pardon, I had not seen his Map when I wrote the Above, in which it is accurately laid down as it appears at present.
We had pleased ourselves, since coming to this Island, with thinking that we had found out the reason why they cut off their little Fingers here, viz. that they cut off a joint on the death of any near Relation; but this Evening I met with an exceeding old man who had both hands quite perfect: yet so old a man must have lost many relations, his Parents in particular. Another thing about which much dispute has arrisen is the design & use of those neat little buildings which I have mentioned to be situate at the intersections of the Roads; some asserting that they are Temples & the Images Idols, and others that they are Burying Places & the Images merely Ornamentall. If the former opinion be true they pay little regard to their Gods for one of the Natives set one of them up for us to shoot at: For my part I believe they are appropiated to both, here as well as in Europe & that the Images, are put there in memory of ye persons interred.
By my observations the Latitude of the place where the Ship lay is 21°.4’.13” South and its Longitude 185°.6’.4” E. the observations from whence this is deducted are 8 in number some of which are Eastern and other western Distance of the D from the Sun, & Stars, and all I believe very good. Mr Kendall’s Watch gave 184°.31’52”E, by its last Rate & 174°.44 ¼’, allowing it to have gone all the voyage at the same Rate it was going at, at Greenwich. The Variation of the Land pass seems to be 10°28’4” but I had but one Set of Observations of this kind. –
About 19h. began to un-moor and the Stream Cable parted in the middle being cut with the Rocks.The Bower Cable also was much rubbed; at half past 20h. got under way and at Noon the North point of the Island bore E.3/4 N. dist about 2 Miles.

[Page 206]
Thursday, October ye 7th 1773

Weather
Moderate Wind & fair
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
At 5 oClock the West point of Tonga-Tabo or Amsterdam S.S.E. 24°.
Variation by Azimuth 10°. 44’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
The mean of 6 Observations taken before we [indecipherable] at Amsterdam and reduced thither by the Watch give its Longit. 185°. 12’. 22 3/8” E. The mean of 8 taken there give 185°. 2’. 9½” E. and of 5 taken after leaving it, reduced thither by the Watch give 185°. 56’. 14 7/8” E. The mean of ye 3 is 185°. 3’ 38¼” E. This is of the ship at Anchor of ye N.W. Pt. of ye Island.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Let out all reefs and set the fore top mast steady sails.
Variation by Azimuth 11°. 35’ E.

Weather
Do. Flying clouds

Remarks
Longit. by dist. O a D 184. 42 3/8 E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

Friday, October ye 8th 1773

Weather
Light breeze & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Saw the Island Piilstreet bearing S.W. ½ W.
Variation by Azimuth 9°. 50¾’ E.
At 6 oClock Piilstreet bore S.W. 6 or 7 leagues.

Weather
Moderate Wind, do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. Flying Clouds
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 207]
Saturday, October ye 9th 1773

Weather
Mderate Wind & Cloudy
Brisk Wind do.

Remarks
Tacked Ship.
Took in two reefs of the Topsails.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Let out ye 2nd reef of the Topsails.
At 18h. saw Piilstreet Island N.W. ½ W. dist. abt. 5 Leagues

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O a D 185°. 59’ E. Piilstreet N. b. W. ½ W. abt. 4 Lea.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Piilstreet’s Island N. b. E. ¼ E. 6 or 7 Leagues.

Sunday, October ye 10th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.

From the bearings taken yesterday and the Day before I find that the Latitude of Pylstart’s Island is 22°. 23.6’ S. Its Longit. by the same observations wherewith I [indecipherable] Tonga-tabu, & Eaoowe is 184°. 14’ E. Mr. Kendall’s Watch gave 183°. 42’. 10” E. We did not pass near enough to see what sort of an Island it is.
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O a D 182°. 27¼’ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

[Page 208]
Monday, October ye 11th 1773

Weather
Fresh breeze & Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. very squally & do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O a D 181°. 53½’ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

Tuesday, October ye 12th 1773

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

[Page 209]
Wednesday, October ye 13th 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & fair
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Made sail.

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 11°. 26¾’ E.
Do. 10. 39 E.

Weather
Do. & very Cloudy

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

Thursday, October ye 14th 1773

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Let out all reefs.
Variation by Azimuth 11°. 34 1/3’ E.

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

[Page 210]
Friday October ye 15th 1773

Weather
Moderate & Clear
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 10°. 52’ E.
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail.
Variation by Azimuth 10. 26 1/3 )E.
11. 28)

Weather
Do. do.
Do. Clear

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

Saturday, October ye 16th 1773

Weather
Moderate Wind & Clear
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(10°. 43 22/3’) E.
(11. 48¼)

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds
Do. do.
Little Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. Clear

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

[Page 211]
Sunday, October ye 17th 1773

Weather
Little Wind & fine weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 10°. 32’ E.

Weather
Moderate Wind & do.
Do. do.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 11°. 00’ E.

Weather
Light Breeze & Cloudy
Brisk Wind do.

Monday, October ye 18th 1773

Weather
Brisk Gale & fair wr.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail, the Adventure being out of sight.
Fired three guns in answer to others which had been fired from the Adventure.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail the Adventure being come in sight.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

[Page 212]
Tuesday ye 10th 1773

Weather
Brisk Wind & cloudy
Do. do.
Very Squally with rain

Remarked
Fired a gun for the Adventure and shortened sail.

Weather
Do. very heavy Rain

Remarks
Fired two Guns in answer to the Adventure.
Reefed the topsails.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. Flying Clouds
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure astern.

Wednesday, October ye 20th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & Flying Clouds

Remarks
Longit by Dist. O a D 179°. 49’ E.
Reefed the fore & main Topsails, & handed the mizen topsail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Set the mizen Topsail.
Saw New Zeeland extending from N.W. to S.W. b. W.
Variation by Azimuth 15°. 12’ E. doubtfull.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Let out all reefs.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Table Cape W. b. S. about 10 Leagues.

[Page 213]
Thursday, October ye 21st 1773

Weather
Brisk Gales & Clear wr.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O a D 178°. 06’ E.
The Shambles S. b. W ½ W. at which time we bore away & sailed between them and Portland.

Weather
Do. Foggy with rain

Remarks
Portland N.N.E. dist. about two Leagues. Took in a reef of the Topsails.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Let out all reefs and set stud sails.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Black-Head S.S.W. 2 or 3 Leagues.
Several Natives came off to us in their Boats, and one of their Chiefs came on board, to whom the Capt. gave several Trinkets, & a more substantial present of two Boars, 2 Sows, 2 Cocks & two Hens.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Took in a reef of each topsail.
The Adventure in company.

Friday, October ye 22nd 1773

Weather
Squally & Cloudy
Brisk wind & Squally

Remarks
Carried away the fore-top-gallant mast.
At 6 oClock Cape Turnagain N.W. b. W. 5 or 6 Leagues.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Tacked ships without making any signal. Split the mizzen [indecipherable].
Tacked again. Reefed the main Topsail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Tacked ship.
Tacked again. Split the fore-top mast stay-sail.

Weather
Strong wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Wore ship. Handed the Top-sails & got down the Top-gall. yard.

Weather
Strong Gales with rain

Remarks
Cape Turn-again N.W. b. W. ½ W. about 4 Leagues.
Set the fore and main Topsails.
Tacked ship. Cape Turn-again W. b. S. 2 or 3 miles.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
The Adventure not in company. Cape Turnagain W. ¾ S.

[Page 214]
Saturday October ye 23rd 1773

Weather
Light Breezes & fair Weather

Remarks
Bent another mizen Top-sail.
Got up a new Top-gallt. mast, let out all reefs, and set the Top Gallant sails.
Longit. by Dist. O a D 176°. 42¾’ E.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Took in the first reef of the Top-sails.
Cape Turn-again W. b. N. ¾ N. about 6 Leagues.

Weather
Strong Wind & Squally rain

Remarks
Got down the top-gallant yards, close reefed the main and fore top sails, and handed the mizen Topsail.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
More moderate do.

Remarks
Got up ye top-gallt. yards, let out two reefs of the Topsails and set the mizen topsail.
Saw the Adventure on the Lee Bow, standing in shore.

Weather
Strong Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Got down the Top-Gallt. yards, close reefed the fore and main top sails and handed the mizen topsail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Adventure in company.

Sunday, October ye 24th 1773

Weather
Strong Wind & squally wr.
Do. do.

Remarks
Handed the fore topsail & half an hour afterwards set it again.
Cape Pallisser N.W. b. W. 8 or 9 Leagues & Point [indecipherable] W. ½ S. about 12 Leagues. The Tops of the Mountains beyond the latter are all covered with snow.

Weather
More moderate Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Set out the 2nd reef of the Topsails and got up the Top gallant yards.

Weather
Do. do.
Strong wind do.

Remarks
Let out all reefs.
Took in the 1st and 2nd reef of the Topsails.
Close reefed the fore & main Topsails & handed the mizen Topsail.
Got down the Top-Gallant yarads.
Handed the Topsails & courses & hd. too under base Poles.
Dr. Lind’s Wind Gage rose 9/10 & fell 7/10 of an Inch.

Weather
Exceeding strong wind

Remarks
The Adventure in Company.

[Page 215]
Monday, October ye 25th 1773

Weather
Strong Gales & Squally Wr.
Do. do.

Remarks
Hoisted the fore top mast stay sail halfway up to wear ship, & then bore away under base Poles to look for the Adventure, which had drove out of sight: we ran for about 20’ and then brought too without getting sight of her.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Set the mizen stay sail.
Bore away, the Adventure just in sight from the Mast Head.

Weather
More moderate, Cloudy

Remarks
Brought too for the Adventure to come up with us.
Bore a way, let out all reefs, got the top-gallant yards a cross, set the mizen Topsail & fore top-mast. Hadd. sail.

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy

Remarks
The Adventure just in sight from the Quarter Deck.

Tuesday October ye 26th 1773

Weather

Brisk Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Saw the land bearing N.W.
At ½ past 5 oClock Cape Pallisser bore N. ¾ W. dist. about 8 Leagues.
The Land visible from the North to N. b. W. ½ W.

Weather
Calm do.
Brisk Wind & squally

Remarks
Took in the 2nd reef of the Topsails.
Saw the Land right a head. Tacked Ship.

Weather
Strong Gales do.

Remarks
Got down the top gallant yards, close reefed the fore & main Topsails and handed the mizen Topsail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Cape Pallisser N.W. dist. about 4 Leagues.
The Adventure just discernable from the Mast Head.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Cape Pallisser W. b. S. abt. 6 Leagues. The Adventure out of sight.

[Page 216]
Wednesday, October ye 27th 1773

Weather
Fresh Gales & Clear
Strong Wind, Cloudy

Remarks
Close reefed the Topsails.
Handed the Topsails.
Cape Pallisser N.W. b. W. dist. about 6 Leagues.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Wore Ship.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Joined the Adventure. Set the fore & main Topsails.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Wore Ship.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Handed the Topsails. The Adventure 5 or 6 Miles off.

Thursday, October ye 28th 1773

Weather
Strong Wind & Squally

Remarks
Brought too under the foresail & mizen stay-sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Set the main top-sail close reefed.
Saw the land bearing N.W. b. N.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Much lighten’g every Land
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Set the fore topsail close reefed.
Let a reef out of the main Top sail and 2 out of the fore topsail.
The Adventure out of sight.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Cape Pallisser W. ½ N. dist. about 10 Leagues.
Let out all reefs and got up the Top Gallt. yard.
Cape Pallisser W. ¼ N. dist. abt. 8 Leagues.

[Page 217]
Friday, October ye 29th 1773

Weather
Moderate breeze & hazy
Do. do.

Remarks
Cape Pallisser W. dist. about 5 Leagues.

Weather
Do. do.
Brisk wind do.

Remarks
Cape Pallisser W. ½ N. dist. about 3 Leagues.
Took in the first reef of the Topsails.

Weather
Strong Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Took in the 2nd reef of the fore & main Top sails, handed the mizen Topsail & got down the top Gallt. yards.

Weather
do. do.

Remarks
Close reefed & handed the topsails. Point Campbell N.W.

Weather
Do. do.

Saturday, October ye 30th 1773

Weather
Strong Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Set the main & fore Topsails.
Wore ship, and founded in 25 fathoms, soft ground, and about a mile from the Shore.
Cape Campbell N. b. W. about 8 or 9 leagues.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Handed the Topsails.
Set the main topsail close reefed.

Weather
Do. squally do.

Remarks
Handed the main topsail.
Split the fore top-mast stay sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Bent another fore top-mast stay-sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Wore ship, and brought too under the fore sail & mizen stay sail.
Made sail, & set the fore & main Topsails close reefed.
Split the mizen stay sail: unbent it & bent another.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Handed the Topsails.

[Page 218]
Sunday, October ye 31st 1773

Weather
Strong Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Handed the Courses, and brought too under the mizen staysail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Set the Courses.
Set the main topsail.

Weather
Calm do.

Remarks
Set the fore & mizen Topsails, let out all reefs & got up Top Gallt. yards.
Carried away the main top Gallant yard.
Got up another main top Gallant yard & set ye stay sails.

Weather
Moderate wind thick & rainy
Brisk breeze do.

Remarks
Cape Campbell N. b. W. 4 Leagues.

Monday, November ye 1st 1773

Weather
Brisk Wind with Rain
Do. do.

Remarks
Cape Campbell S.W. abt. 3 miles. Unstowed the Anchors.
A long shore runs off from Cape Campbell: it was in shallow even where we passed that it was doubtful with some whether or no we should not touch.

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Point of Cape Terrewitte N.E. b. N.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At ½ past 11 Tacked ship.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Got down the Top Gallt. Yards & took in ye first reef of the Top sails.

Weather
Mostly Cloudy with showers & strong wind

Remarks
At 20h. Cape Terrewitte bore N.W. 2 or 3 Leagues.
A little before 21h. I had Altitudes of the Sun for determining the time & Longit. by the Watch, at which Time Cape Pallisser bore E. ¼ N. dist. about 7 Leagues, and hence I deduced the Longit. 174°. 51¾’ E.
Standing in for a Bay between ye Capes Terrewitte & Pallisser.

[Page 219]
November 2nd.
About one o'Clock came to an Anchor in 12 fathoms between Cape Terrewitte and Cape Pallisser in a fine sandy Bay; going into which we found the Soundings remarkably regular. This Bay is pretty deep, and there was the appearance of a very good Harbour beyond some Islands which form the bottom of the Bay. We had scarce got to an Anchor before several Canoes full of the Natives Came along side, and the people came on board without any ceremony from whence I concluded that they had been on board some of our Ships before, probably in Q,. Charlotte's Sound; we got a few fish of them which were acceptable enough. That this Bay may not be mistaken, it is necessary to observe that there is the appearance of another deep Bay between a point of Land which forms the East side of this, and Cape Pallisser, that being close under Cape Pallisser, as this is under Terrewitte, and the point which separates them does not come out by much so far as either of the two Capes. It seems highly probable to me that this point is only an Island & that the two Bays may join beyond it. The Entrance into what we conceived to be an Harbour is at the N.E. Corner of the Bay we anchored in, and there are several Rocks which stretch across it; but notwithstanding this the Passage did not seem either difficult or dangerous, and it would certainly have been examined, if a fine Breeze had not sprung up at SE about 3 o'Clock, in consequence whereof we got under way, and made all the sail possible in hopes of reaching Q,. Charlotte's Sound before dark. The Breeze freshened, and we ran 7½, 8 & 8½ Knots; yet at 7 oClock the Brothers were 3 Miles to the westward of us. At ½ past seven hauled the wind & stood for the sound; it now began to blow exceeding strong, and soon became very dark and rainey moreover so strong, and contrary a Tide ran here that the ship frequently would not steer, and to add to the Misfortune our rigging was become so very bad with long beating of the straight's mouth that some part or other of it went away almost every minute. In this trim we were running directly on a lee-shore for the Wind had pinched on us, so about 8 oClock tacked, & stood across the sound, judging ourselves too near the shore to bring up. At ½ past 8, endeavoured to Tack again; but the ship missed stays twice, & was obliged to be wore at last, by which means she was very near driving out again into the straights; and to prevent it, the Anchor was let go in 18 or 20 fathoms. It proved strong Clayey Ground, & having veered out a great length of Cable, we rode safely untill Morning. About 17h. weighed and made sail; but it falling Calm, came too again, and about 21h weighed a second time, and about Noon moored in Ship Cove with a Cable each way. The former part brisk Wind and Cloudy, the Middle strong Gales, with rain, & the latter part Little Wind & fine weather.

3rd.
The former Part little Wind and fine Weather, the latter some showers. In the Afternoon I went with Capt. Cook to see if we could not find a place which would be tolerably convenient for my Observatory, and also for the People who were to be employed on various points of Duty on Shore, as we should thereby be a mutual protection to each other, and pitched on the Beach at the bottom of the Cove, where I observed before. In the Morning I got the Observatory &c on Shore and began to put it up. We had not anchored before great numbers of the Natives came along side in their Boats, amongst whom we soon recognized several of those who came into the sound a day or two before we left it in June last: Capt. Cook also remembered one old Man who was chief at this place, and resident in it all the time that the Endeavour lay here but there was not one of the family amongst them who was here all the time the Resolution lay in this place in June last, and were so much frightened at the arrival of the newcomers. Our People soon learned with certainty that they had all been killed and eaten.

4th.
Variable Wind and Cloudy, the latter part Rain. Finished the Observatory & set up the Astronomical and Assistant Clocks: fixed up a stand for the Quadt. and Adjusted it ready for Observation.

5th.
The former part strong Wind with Rain, and very cold disagreeable Weather for living in Tents: the latter part flying Clouds, and more Moderate. It having been discovered on board that most of [the bread] which we had in Butts was damp and Mouldy; to day a Copper Oven was brought on Shore and fixed up by the Tent to rebake it.

[Page 220]
November 6th.
The former part Cloudy, the latter fine and clear, with brisk Wind, variable. This Morning it was discovered that a surtout Coat, and a Bag of foul Linen which had been brought on shore to be washed were stolen out of the Tent in which we lay. They had been seen by some of the people after sun-rising; three or four of us had been in, or near the Tent all the morning; and we had never suffered any of the Natives hitherto to land near us for fear they should discover our weakness. There therefore remained no other way for them to go but for some of the Natives to have come through the woods at the back of the Tent, creep under its side, take them out and return the way they Came: but this was an enterprize so difficult and dangerous to those who must have done it; and at the same time so alarming to ourselves that we were neither able or willing to believe it possible to have been done. It nevertheless proved true; for Capt Cook going on shore at the place where they resided, found the very things amongst them and learned that some of them had crossed over the point of Land which seperates the Cove where they were from that where we were, & is about a Mile broad, full of Wood, & very high, had watched 'till we were all out of the tent and then sliped in & taken them away. We now agreed to watch by turns, two hours at a time, which as we had but 6 persons on Shore came to one watch P. night apiece.

7th.
Mostly cloudy with Rain, and brisk Wind northerly. Got on Shore a Chest of Arms, &c. & more People coming on shore, on various points of Duty, we began now to muster strong. We were but 5 persons on shore the first Night, & those divided in two tents; for I did not dare to leave the Instruments, but especially the Time-Keeper, without any one in the place with them, & it would not hold all, neither had we any arms, except one pair of Pistols, and my Gun; so that I should have been very unhappy had I then suspected that these people were capable of yesterday's enterprize.

8th.
The former part cloudy with Rain, and very cold Weather: the latter flying Clouds & variable Winds.

9th.
The former part very fine with moderate Wind southerly: the latter part Heavy Rain.

10th.
The former part mostly cloudy with Showers: the latter much rain & very disagreeable weather.

11th.
The first part cloudy: the latter pretty clear with moderate Winds, chiefly southerly.

12th, 13th, 14th, 15th, 16th.
Moderate Wind at South-East; South, & South-West and very fine Weather. In the course of these five Days The Man and his family who were here in May & June last made their appearance amongst us, having had (I suppose) a joyful Resurrection from the Bowels of their Brother Cannibals; for nothing, it seems, could be more certain than our Information that they were eaten! This is the third time, however, that I have been witness to our intellegence of this nature being false, or misunderstood.

17th.
The former part brisk Winds northerly, with Rain; the latter frequent Showers. I expected this change all yesterday & the latter part of Monday, since then about the tops of the Mountains in the Northwest Quarter, being the highest hereabouts, began to be covered with thick white Clouds which would frequently extend themselves halfway down the sides nearest to us, and again contract themselves in-to a very small space, and hang only about their sumits: But yesterday about Noon half-way-down did not serve their turn, for a strong gust of wind brought them quite down, with great violence 2&overspread the whole sound in a little time.

[Page 221]
November 18th.
The former part flying Clouds; the latter heavy Rain & Hail: Strong North-westerly Winds. 19/A. Most part Cloudy with Rain, and moderate Wind, north-westerly.

20th.
The former part mostly Cloudy; the latter heavy Rain: Wind southerly, and moderate.

21st.
The former part cloudy with moderate Wind North-westerly: the latter fine pleasant Weather. Received Orders to get my Observatory & Instruments on board the Ship.

22nd.
Fine pleasant Weather with Moderate Winds at North-West. After geting the Corresponding Altitudes Took down the Observatory Clocks & Instruments packed them up and put them on board the Ship.

23rd.
I have this day been convinced beyond the possibility of a doubt that the New-Zeelanders are Cannibals; but as it is possible others may be as unbelieving, as I have been in this matter, I will, to give all the satisfaction I possibly can, relate the whole affair just as it happened. After dinner some of the Officers went on shore at a place where many of the Natives generally dwelt to purchase Curiosities, and found them just risen from feasting on the Carcase of one of their own species. It was not immediately perceived what they had been about; but one of the Boats Crew happening to see the head of a Man lying near one of their Canoes, they began to look round them more narrowly, and in another place found the Intestines Liver Lungs &c lying on the ground, as fresh as if but just taken out of the Body, and the Heart stuck on the points of a two pronged spear & tied to the Head of their largest Canoe. One of the Natives with great gayety struck his spear into one lobe of the Lungs, and holding it close to the Mouth of one of the Officers made signs for him to eat it; but he beged to be excused, at the same time taking up ye Head &making signs that he would Accept of that which was given to him, and he presented them with two Nails in return. These Gentlemen saw no part of the Carcase nor even any of the Bones; but understood that the unhappy Victim had been brought from Admiralty Bay, where these natives had lately been on a hunting Party; and one of them took great pains to inform them that he was the person who killed him.
When the Head was brought on board, there happened to be there several of the Natives who resided in another part of the sound, and who although in friendship with were not of the Party of whom the Head was purchased. These were, it seems very desirous of it; but that could not be granted: However one of them who was a great favorite was indulged with a piece of the flesh, which was cut off carried forward to the Gaily, broiled and eaten, by him before all the Officers & ship's Company then on board. Thus far I speak from report: the Witnesses are however too credible & numerous to be disputed if I had had no better authority; but coming just now on board with the Capt and Mr. Forster, to convince us also, another Steake was cut off from the lower part of the head, behind, which I saw carried forward, broiled, and eaten by one of them with an avidity which amazed me, licking his lips and fingers after it as if affraid to lose the least part, either grease or gravy, of so delicious a morsel.
The Head as well as I could judge had been that of a Youth under twenty, and he appeared to have been killed by two blows on the Temple, with one of their Pattoos, one crossing the other; but some were of opinion that the whole might have been done at one blow, and that what appeared to have been caused by the other, was only a cross fracture of the Scull arrising from the first.
My Account of this matter would be very defective, was I to omitt taking notice of the Behavior of the young Man whom we brought with us from Uliateah & who came on board with the

[Page 222]
the Captain, etc. in the Pinnace. Terror took possession of him the moment he saw the Head standing on the Tafferal of the Ship; but when he saw the piece cut off, and the Man eat it, he became perfectly motionless, and seemed as if Metamorphosed into the Statue of Horror: it is, I believe, utterly impossible for Art to depict that passion with half the force that it appeared in his Countenance. He continued in this situation untill some of us roused him out of it by talking to him, and then burst into Tears nor could refrain himself the whole Evening afterwards.

From this Transaction the following Corollaries are evidently deducible, viz—
1st) They do not, as I supposed might be the Case, eat them only on the spot whilst under the Impulse of that wild Frenzy into which they have shewn us they can & do work themselves in their Engagements; but in cool Blood: For it was now many Days since the Battle could have happened.
2nd) That it is not their Enemies only whom they may chance to kill in War; but even any whom they meet with who are not known Friends: since those who eat the part of the head on board, could not know whether it belonged to a friend or Enemy.
3rd) It cannot be through want of Annimal food; because they every day caught as much Fish as served both themselves and us: they have moreover plenty of fine Dogs which they were at the same time selling us for mere trifles; nor is there any want of various sorts of fowl, which they can readily kill if they please.
4th) It seems therefore to follow of course, that their practice of this horrid Action is from Choice, and the liking which they have for this kind of Food; and this was but too visibly shewn in their eagerness for, and the satisfaction which they testified in eating, those inconsiderable scrapts, of the worst part on board the Ship: It is farther evident what esteem they have for it by the risks which they run to obtain it; for although our neighbours feasted so luxuriously, we had abundant reasons to conclude that they came off no gainers in the Action, since almost all of them had their foreheads & Arms scarrified, which is, it seems, their usual custom, when they lose any near Relation in War.
To Day unmoor'd and hove short to half a Cable. Fine pleasant Weather: Winds moderate and Variable.

24th.
Winds and Weather Variable. Went on shore with some of the Officers to the Indian Village where I saw the Man's Heart sticking on the spear, and tied to the Head of the Canoe as described above; the Intestines also were lying in the same place; but were now, all parched by the heat of the sun, which is a manifest proof that they had been taken out of the Body only the Day before; but the Liver & Lungs were now wanting; I suppose they had now found an appetite for these also, the Carcase being all done.
At ½ past 15h. weighed, and sailed out of Ship Cove; but about 19h. falling little wind, Anchored under the End of Long-Island. About 20h. weighed again and came to sail with a fine Breeze at North-West. At Noon the Two-Brothers bore SE dist. about 2 Miles. Set studding sails & directed our Course for the Northern shore of the straights in search of the Adventure, on whose Account we are under some uneasiness; more especially as we had while in the Sound, near a whole week running of very favourable Winds and Weather for her coming in.

[Page 223]
November 25th 1773

At 4 oClock Cape Pallisser bore E.b.S. ½ S. and we were abreast of Cape Teerawitte, about a mile from the Shore: after this we fired Guns every half hour, as we stood eastward. At 8 o’Clock we had Cape Pallisser still E.b.S. ½ S. dist. about 3 or 4 Leagues. Brought too for the night during which we fired Guns frequently. In the morning made sail, and steered along shore to the Northward, firing Guns every half hour. About 19½h. I got some altitudes of the Sun for finding the Time & Longitude by the Watch, at which Time Cape Pallisser bore W.N.W. ¼ W. dist. 3 or 4 Leagues, and from whence I compute its Longit. from Queen Charlotte’s Sound to be 0° 54’ E. But if I take a mean of all the determinations which I have had now, when coming in, and also when going out in June last, being 8 in number the Longit. of Cape Palliss from Queen Charlotte’s Sound will be 1° 04½’ E. The mean of 6 determinations of its latitude give 41° 37’ 50” S. and these determinations may, I flatter my self be depended on. At noon Cape Pallisser bore W.N.W. ½ North dist. 3 or 4 Lea. The former part of the Day brisk wind, the latter gentle breezes & fine weather.
On computing from my Observations: I find that the Latitude of the Observatory was 41° 06’ 02½ S., and its Longitude taking a mean of all the observed distances of the moon from the Sun &c. 11° 37’ 51½”, and by a mean of two emersions of its Satellites it is 11h. 36’ 25”, and the mean of the two is 11h. 37’ 08¼” = 174° 17’ 03¾” E. Mr. Kendall’s Watch, reckoning from Otahitie, at the Rate it was going when there, gave the Longitude of the Sound 11h. 35’ 54¾” E. But reckoning all the way from England, at the rate it went at Greenwich, the Longitude shown by it is 167° 16’ 25” E. from Plymouth or 162° 56’ 25” E. from Greenwich. I found its rate of going while here to be gaining 9.091” p. day, and that it was too slow for mean Time at this place by 11h. 11’ 42.31” on Monday, Novembher ye 22nd at Noon, from which Data I shall compute the Longitude of the Ship by it in future.
As this is the first Place which the Watch has returned to, it may not be amiss to examine how much it has deviated form the rate it was going at when here before, since all errors in Longit. are out of ye care.

And accordingly June ye 3rd 1773 it was too slow for mean Time at this Place by – 11h. 38’ 17.97”
It was then gaining 9.05” a day on mean Time, which being multiplied by 156 the number of days between June ye 3rd & November ye 6th gives – 00 23 31.80
Hence the Watch ought to have been too slow November 7ye 6th at Noon by – 11 14 46.17
I found it too slow on that Day at noon by – 11 14 04.69
Hence the Watch has erred in 156 Days – 00 00 41.48

I found that the Time of High-water preceeded the moon’s southing, on the full and change days by three hours, and that the greatest rise and fall of the Water was 5 feet 10 inches & an half; but I ought, perhaps to remark, that there were evident tokens on the Beach of the Water having risen full two feet higher since we were here before than it ever did in the course of these experiments. The Variation of ye Compass was 13° 52 1/8’ E. from a mean of several very good Azimuths, and the Dip of the needle South End was 64° 20¾’. It will be observed that these numbers differ from those found when here before; to which I can say nothing but that both were made with all the skill and attention I was capable of – the former were made under the less favourable circumstances nor will it pass unnoticed that the Longit. above put down, resulting from my observations differs, and that considerably, from that communicated to me by Mr. Bayley when here last, and inserted by me in my remarks on June ye 6th to which I can say nothing but that I know no reason why mine should not be right, and hope they are.
Since writing the above I have found Mr. Bayley’s observation of the Occultation of [indecipherable] by the D in May ye 12th 1773, which he had given to me when here in June last; but had been mislaid, and have inspected it very carefully and find that the Immersion gives East Longit. 174° 07’ 45”, and the Emersion, 174° 03’ Et. instead of 173° 47¾’ & 173 54 7/8 as he makes it.

[Page 224]
Friday, November ye 26th 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Cape Pallisser W. ½ N.
Cape Pallisser W. ½ S. dist. 3 or 4 Leagues
Cape Pallisser N.W. b. W. 5 or 6 Leagues.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Brisk wind do.

Remarks
Set studding sails.
Carried away the main topmast studding sail yard, and split the sail; also split the main Topsail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Carried away the main top Gallt. yard.

Weather
Do. with Flying Clouds

Remarks
Mended the main top sail.

Saturday, November ye 27th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & clear

Remarks
Set the fore-top-gallt. yard for a main one.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(13° 57½’) E.
(11. 51)
A swell from the S.W.

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy
Little wind & very hazy
Do. do.
Do. & Flying Clouds
Calm Hazy

[Page 225]

Sunday, November ye 28th 1773

Weather
Cloudy with Rain

Remarks
Set the studding sails.

Weather
Cloudy & Moderate wind

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 13° 56’ E.

Weather
Hazy & Calm
Do. do.
Little Wind & foggy

Remarks
A great swell from the W.S.W.

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Monday, November ye 29th 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & clear
Brisk Wind and Cloudy

Remarks
Dble. reefed the Topsails.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Handed the mizen Topsail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Bent another fore sail. Let out a reef of the main Topsail & set the mizen Topsail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Split the Sprit sail. Unbent it.
Passed many sticks & lumps of Seaweed.

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
A great swell from the S.W.

[Page 226]
Tuesday, November ye 30th 1773

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
The S.W. swell continues.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Double reefed the Topsails & got down the top Gal. yards.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Let out the 2nd reef of the main-Topsail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
A great S.W. sea & exceeding long Waves.

Wednesday, December ye 1st 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & foggy
Do. do.

Remarks
Let out all reefs of the Topsails.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Took in the 1st & 2nd reefs of the fore Topsail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Let out the reefs of the fore topsail.

Weather
Do. do.

[Page 227]
Thursday, December ye 2nd 1773

Weather
Moderate Wind & Foggy
Do. do.

Remarks
Let out all reefs of the Topsails.

Weather
Little wind do.
Calm & very thick fog
Moderate wind & foggy

Remarks
Got up the top-Gallt. yards.
Set the studing sails.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Many Pengwins, & some sea-weed about us.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
A south-west swell with the longest Waves I ever saw.

Friday, December ye 3rd 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & foggy
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Down studding sails.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Set the studding sails.

Weather
Little Wind & thick fog

Remarks
Saw several Pengwins & two seals.

Weather
Do. & foggy with rain

Remarks
The S.W. swell continues.

[Page 228]
Saturday, December ye 4th 1773

Weather
Little Wind & thick fog
Calm & thick fog with rain

Remarks
Tacked Ship.
Saw Pengwins.

Weather
Little wind do.
Do. do.
Moderate Wind & hazy

Remarks
Longit. by dist. O a D 180 22½ Et.
Variation by azimuth 17 51½ Et.

Weather
Do. & fine clear weather

Remarks
Cleaned and smoaked between Decks

Weather
Do. do.

Sunday, December ye 5th 1773

Weather
Little Wind & Clear
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
The Swell still continues from the S.W.
Variation by Azimuth 18° 16½’ E.

Weather
Cloudy Weather
Little wind & Cloudy
Do. & foggy

Remarks
Set the fore top mast studding sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Moderate wind do.

Remarks
Saw a seal, which followed the ship with good all the Time I was observing.

[Page 229]
Monday, December ye 6th 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & foggy
Do. do.
Brisk wind & foggy

Remarks
Between 7 & 8 oClock, passed directly opposite to London, and drank to our friends on that other side of the globe. The good people of that City may now rest perfectly satisfied that they have no Antipodes besides Pengwins and Petrolls, unless Seals can be admitted as such, for Fishes are absolutely out of the question.
Shortened sail at 8 oClock.

Weather
Do. Rain & do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Let out all reefs and set the main-topsail.
Saw a seal and several lumps of sea-weed.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Tuesday December ye 7th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & foggy
Strong wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Passed by a large Piece of drift-wood.
Variation by Azimuth 17° 23’ Et.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
In top Gallt. sails, close reefed the Topsails & handed them and the mainsail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. Hail

Remarks
Set the main & fore topsails with a reef in each.

Weather
Do. & Flying Clouds

Remarks
Set the mainsail.
Longit. by dist. O a D 181° 30¼’.

Weather
Do. do.

[Page 230]
Wednesday, December ye 8th 1773

Weather
Strong wind & Foggy

Remarks
Bent another main topsail, and took in the first reef.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Handed the Mainsail.
Brought too under the foresail & mizen stay sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Bore away & set the fore and main-topsails.

Weather
Do. Rain & do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O a D 122° 11¾’ E.
Let out the reefs in the Topsails.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The swell yet comes from the S.W.

Thursday, December ye 9th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & Foggy
Do. do.
Strong wind with sleet

Remarks
Close reefed the Topsails & handed them; also handed the main and fore sails, & brought too under the mizen stay sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Bore away, & set the fore-sail & main Topsail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Set the fore-topsail.
Set the main sail.
Let out the 3rd reef of the two Topsails.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. & foggy.

[Page 231]
Friday, December ye 10th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & foggy
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. Rain

Remarks
Let the 2nd reef out of the topsails & set the mizen topsail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. & flying clouds

Remarks
Yet a S.W. swell.

Saturday, December ye 11th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Let the reef out of the topsails.
Variation by Azimuth 15° 04½’ E.

Weather
Do. Snow

Remarks
Took in two reefs of the fore & main top sails and handed the mizen Topsail.

Weather
Squally with snow & rain

Remarks
Saw an Island of Ice, which is the first this season.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Set the mizen topsail.

Weather
Brisk wind & squally.

[Page 232]
Sunday, December ye 12th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. & Flying Clouds

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(16° 49½’) E.
(17 30 )

Weather
Do. do.
Moderate wind & sleet

Remarks
The S.W. swell still continues.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. & thick snow

Remarks
Took in the first and second reefs of the Topsails.

Weather
Do. Foggy with snow

Remarks
Split the main top-mast stay sail.

Monday, December ye 13th 1773

Weather
Brisk Wind & foggy with sleet.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Saw a large Island of Ice a head.

Weather
Brisk wind & foggy
Do. do.
Moderate Wind & flying clouds

Remarks
One Island of Ice in sight.
Got ye main Top-gallt. yard across & set ye sail.
Passed by two Islands of Ice.
Sailed through much scattered Ice.
All the Islands hitherto seen have had smooth flat Tops & straight upright sides.

Weather
Brisk wind & Foggy.

[Page 233]
Tuesday, December ye 14th 1773

Weather
Brisk Wind & foggy
Do. do.

Remarks
Passe by an Island of Ice
Variation by Azimuth 14° 12’ E.
Passed by another Island of Ice.
Took in the 2nd reef of the fore Topsail & handed the main sail and mizen Topsail.
Passed by 8 Islands of Ice.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Passed by seven Islands of Ice.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Set the main-topsail.
Fell in with a great deal of scattered Ice which we sailed through.
Found a close field of Ice directly a head hauled to the Northward.

Weather
Do. with snow
Do. do.

Remarks
Found ourselves quite embayed with close low ice, amongst which were a prodigious number of very large & high Islands, all with smooth flat Tops & upright sides, as if broke off from some very large high field. Tacked ship, and at half past 21 h. found ourselves brought up again by close low ice. Tacked to the Eastward and the wind fortunately veering round in our favour, we weathered the point of the reef which formed the north west point of the Bay.

Wednesday, December ye 15th 1773

Weather
Brisk wind with snow

Remarks
Many Islands of Ice about us.

Weather
Do. do.
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Several Islands of Ice in sight.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Passed by but one Island of Ice.

Weather
Do. do.
Do.
Moderate wind & Clear

Remarks
Still a great swell from the S.W.

[Page 234]
Thursday, December ye 16th 1773

Weather
Moderate Wind with snow
Do. do.

Remarks
Fell in with much loose Ice: hoisted out the Cutter & Pinnace to pick some of it up for Water; but they found the swell too great & returned with very little. Hoisted them in again and made sail.

Weather
Do. & very thick with snow
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Passed by two very large Islands of Ice and many loose pieces: Hoisted out the boats to fetch some on board but Ice is very porous, and nothing more than frozen snow. The water, moreover which it produces is brackish, probably owing to the pores being full of salt water.

Weather
Do. foggy

Friday, December ye 17th 1773

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Hoisted in the Boats, and made sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. Thick Fog

Remarks
Reefed the Top sails.
Passed by a very large Island of Ice.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Let the reef out of the topsail.

Weather
Do. with sleet
Do. & very thick Fog

[Page 235]
Saturday, December ye 18th 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & thick fog

Remarks
Passed to windward of a large Island of Ice which the ship weathered by about her own breadth!

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 10° 18’ E.
Passed very close to another large Island of Ice.
Wore ship.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Passed by one Island of Ice.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Sunday, December ye 19th 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & foggy

Remarks
Passed by several Islands of Ice.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Longit by Dist. O a D 210° 51’ E.
Variation by Azimuth 12° 08’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
4 Islands of Ice in sight.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Many Islands of Ice in sight.
Passed amidst many large pieces of Ice.
Got up the top-Gallt. yards.
Several Islands of Ice about.

[Page 236]
Monday, December 20th 1773

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Got down the top Gallt. yards.
The rigging very much cumbered with Ice which rendered the working of the ship extremely troublesome.

Weather
Do. & thick Fog

Remarks
Took in the 2nd reef of the fore and main Topsails, and handed the mizen Topsail.

Weather
Do. with thick fog & sleet
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Set the mizen Topsail.
Fell in with much loose Ice.
Discovered a very large Island of Ice directly a head and scarce more than 100 yards distant: the ship luckily wore clear of it; but before she was half round, another large one was discovered, at about the like distance on the Lee bow. The Lieut. had therefore no reserve but to put the helm up again, and endeavour to drive her through a large field of loose Ice which lay betwixt them, and as soon as she was clear of them Tacked and stood Northward.

Tuesday, December ye 21st 1773

Weather
Brisk Wind & foggy

Remarks
Split the mizen Topsail all to pieces.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Passed by several Ice Islands, one of which had a large spire on its Top with an arch-way through it.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Sailed through much stragling Ice.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Let out the second reef of the Topsails.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Several Islands of Ice in sight.

[Page 237]
Wednesday, December ye 22nd 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & foggy

Remarks
Passed several Islands of Ice, one of which had a very rugged top and sides, the others were all flat & smooth as usual.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Many Islands of Ice in sight.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Lost out ye first reef of the fore & main-topsail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
23 Islands of Ice in sight.

Thursday, December ye 23rd 1773

Weather
Brisk wind & foggy
Moderate wind do.

Remarks
Fell in with abundance of loose Ice, within which there appeared to be a large close field. Brought too, hoisted out the Boats to fetch some of it on Board for water.
Took in the first & second reefs of the topsails.
Hoisted in the Boats, wore ship, & made sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Wore Shiip.
Passed by several Islands of Ice.

Weather
Brisk Wind & thick fog and sleet

Remarks
Tacked Ship.
Many Ice Islands in sight.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Tacked ship and stood to the Eastward.

[Page 238]
Friday, December ye 24th 1773

Weather
Moderate Wind & foggy

Remarks
Out all Reefs.

Weather
Do. Clear

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 18° 46’ E. Gregorys Compass
Do. do. 15 32 E. by Knight’s
Longit. by Dist O a D 00½ E. Back Observation.

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Passed by several Islands of Ice.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Fifty-three Islands.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Upwards of 90 Islands of Ice was [indecipherable] from the Mast head.
Handed the Main-sail & reefed the Topsails.

Saturday, December ye 25th 1773

Weather
Little Wind & Cloudy
Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
The greatest number of Ice Islands about that I ever saw. They are all small ones, and resemble much the Pieces which used to break off from the shores about Churchill River in the Spring of the year that I wintered there, from whence I cannot avoid thinking we are not far from Land, whose shores are not so high as those where large Islands are found.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do.

Remarks
A large Island of Ice which we were close to at two o’Clock bore now S.W. dist. abt. 8 or 10 miles.

Weather
Little Wind do.

Remarks
Upwards of 200 Islands of Ice in sight, none of which are less than ye ship’s Hull, beside many small pieces.

[Page 239]
Sunday, December ye 26th 1773

Weather
Little wind & Cloudy
Do. Flying clouds

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(15° 40’ Gregorys) Compass
(16 11 Knight’s )

Weather
Do. do.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
A great number of Ice Islands in sight.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Much loose Ice about. Hoisted out the Boats, and sent them to pick some of it up for water: this Ice is of a much closer nature than that we took up the three former Times.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Hoisted in the Boats and made sail.
65 Islands of Ice in sight.

Monday, December ye 27th 1773

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Tacked ship to the Westward.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Got up the top-Gallt. yards.
Unbent the Topsails & bent others.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Fourteen Islands of Ice in sight.

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy
Strong wind with sleet

Remarks
Got down the Top-Gallt. yards.

Weather
Brisk Wind with snow.

[Page 240]
Tuesday, December ye 28th 1773

Weather
Brisk Wind & foggy with sleet
Do. snow
Do. thick snow

Remarks
Passed by a large Island of Ice.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Passed very near another large Islandof Ice. The Tide is not yet broken!

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Wednesday, December ye 29th 1773

Weather
Moderate Wind with snow

Remarks
Passed by two Ice Islands.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 14° 29’ E.
A great swell from the southward

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Two Ice Islands in sight.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Got the Top-Gallt. yards across.

Weather
Little Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Two Islands of Ice in sight: one exceeding long between.

[Page 241]
Thursday, December ye 30th 1773

Weather
Little Wind & Cloudy
Do. snow

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 13° 43½’ E.

Weather
Moderate wind do.

Remarks
Passed by 4 Islands of Ice.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
Five Ice Islands in sight.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Three Islands of Ice in sight.

Friday, December, ye 31st 1773

Weather
Little Wind & fine Clear wr.
Do.

Remarks
Whilst observing at Noon, a shower of snow came from the westward and passed a head of the Ship during which and I remarked that a large Island of Ice which was considerably with in the horizon was entirely hid by it. When it cleared up again the sun was directly over the Island and I observed that it required to have the sun diped something more than its whole diameter to bring its lower to the nearer edge of the Ice Island, which during the shower must have been beyond the visible horizon. Hence may be [indecipherable] ye uncertainty of Altitudes observed in Foggy, at which seamen in general, call hazy weather.
Variation by Azimuth 12 02½ E.

Weather
Little Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
A great swell from the S.W.
Four Islands of Ice in sight.

Weather
Do. sleet
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Six Islands of Ice in sight.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Set the Studding sails.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Three Islands of Ice in sight.

[Page 242]
Saturday, January ye 1st 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & cloudy
Squally with snow

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 14° 04’ E.

Weather
Brisk Wind & clear
Do. do.

Remarks
Three Ice Islands in sight.

Weather
Little Wind do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 13° 27’ E.

Weather
Do.
Moderate Wind & Clear

Remarks
No Ice in sight.

Sunday, January ye 2nd 1774

Weather
Moderate wind & cloudy
Do. with snow
Brisk wind do.

Remarks
Carried away the fore-top-mast studding sail Boom.

Weather
Ditto & drizzling rain
Cloudy
Brisk wind with snow
Do. sleet

Remarks
Saw two birds with flat Beaks, something like those usually called Divers.

Weather
Do. & Flying Clouds

[Page 243]
Monday, January 3rd 1774

Weather
Moderate wind & cloudy
Brisk Wind & foggy
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. Rain
Do. foggy
Strong Wind & foggy

Tuesday, January ye 4th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & Squally
Strong Wind do.

Remarks
Handed the mizen Topsail, close reefed the main Topsail and split the fore-Topsail – unbent it.
Handed the main-Topsail.

Weather
Do. Rain
Do. Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Set the Main-Topsail close reefed.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
A very great sea with long waves from the westward.
Bent a fore Topsail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Saw a piece of Sea Weed.

[Page 244]
Wednesday, January ye 5th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & cloudy
Do. Rain

Remarks
A very great swell from the westward.

Weather
Strong Wind do.

Remarks
Handed the Topsails.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. Squally
Brisk wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Passed by a small piece of sea weed.
Set the Topsails close reefed.
Longit. by Dist. O a D 224° 46¾’ E.

Weather
Do. & Flying Clouds

Remarks
Let out all reefs of ye Main Topsail & ye 2nd & 3rd of ye fore Topsail.

Thursday, January ye 6th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & flying clouds

Remarks
Let out the Reef of the fore Topsail, and got the main Top Gallt. Yard across.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 7° 07½’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Got up the fore-top gallant yard.
Variation by Azimuth 6° 40’ E.
Longit by Dist. O a D 226° 35¾’ E.

Weather
Do. do.

[Page 245]
Friday, January ye 7th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & flying clouds
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 6° 32’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. Rain
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
Set the studding sails forward.
Variation by Azimuth 6° 26’ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O a D 228° 42¼’ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Saturday, January ye 8th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & flying Clouds
Do. do.

Remarks
A great swell from the Westward.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. & squally with Showers
Do. do.
Do. Flying clouds

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O a D 232° 26¾’ E.
Many Albatrosses about the Ship & other sea Birds. The Albatrosses are all very large & grey like those we used to see at and after leaving the Cape of Good Hope. One was catched with a Hook & line which measured near 10 ft. from the tip of one wing to that of the other.

Weather
Do. do.

[Page 246]
Sundlay, January ye 9th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & flying Clouds
Do. Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Down studding sails.

Weather
Do. do.
Moderate Wind, do.

Remarks
Many Albatrosses & other sea Birds.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
A great swell from the westward.

Weather
Little Wind do.

Monday, January ye 10th 1774

Weather
Little Wind & flying Clouds
Do. Cloudy
Do. do.
Moderate Wind do.
Squally with showers
Do. do.

Remarks
Carried away the slings of ye cross Jack Yard.
Fixed new ones.

Weather
Brisk Wind & flying Clouds.

[Page 247]
Tuesday, January ye 11th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & Squally

Remarks
Bent another fore sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 2&° 41’ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Down studding sails, handed the main sails, and reefed the Top sails.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 1° 35’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
A long following sea.

Wednesday, January ye 12th 1774

Weather
Brisk winds & flying clouds
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(4° 34¼’) East & different Compasses
(4. 54 2/3)

Weather
Do. Foggy
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

[Page 248]
Thursday, January, ye 13th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & foggy
Do. do.
Do. and drizzling Rain

Remarks
Handed the main sail, fore and mizen Topsails, dble reefed the main Topsail & set the fore, top and mizen stay sails.

Weather
Do. foggy

Remarks
Passed a small lump of sea weed.
Took in the first & second reefs of the fore Topsail, & set it.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Brought too, and reeved a new Tiller rope.
Broke the new tiller Rope.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Brought too & reeved another.

Friday, January ye 14th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind and foggy
Do. do.

Remarks
Split the fore Topsail: unbent it. Handed the mizen Topsail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Handed the main sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Set the Main sail.
Bent another fore Top sail. Let out the reef of the main topsail, and set the mizen topsail.

Weather
Do. Rain
Strong Wind & foggy

[Page 249]
Saturday, Januyary ye 15th 1774

Weather
Strong Wind and foggy

Remarks
Took in the second reef of the Topsails.

Weather
Do. Rain

Remarks
A very great sea from the N.W.

Weather
Very strong Wind & foggy

Remarks
Got down the Top Gallant yards and handed the Topsails.
Handed the Courses & brought too under the mizen stay sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
An extending high sea.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
More Moderate & hazy

Remarks
Wore ship, and set the courses.
Set the fore-Topsail close reefed, and unbent the main topsail.

Weather
Brisk Wind & hazy

Remarks
The sea exceeding high and irregular.

Sunday, January ye 16th 1774

Weather
Brisk wind & flying Clouds

Remarks
Bent the main topsail & set it and the mizen Topsail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist O a D 241° 09¾’ E.
Variation by Azimuth 9 23½ E. Gregorys Compass
Do. do. 8 49 E. Knight’s do.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. squally
Do. showers of Rain

Remarks
Let out all reefs of the Topsails.

Weather
Do. sleet

Remarks
Split the fore-top sail: unbent it and bent another.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

[Page 250]
Monday, January ye 17th 1774

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Took in two reefs of the fore and main Topsails.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. Rain

Remarks
Passed by a small lump of sea weed.

Weather
Do. & foggy with rain
Do. & foggy

Tuesday, January ye 18th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & foggy

Remarks
Let the Reefs out of the Topsails.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by dist. O a D 243° 23 3/8’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Cloudy

Remarks
A great swell from the N.W.

Weather
Little Wind & thick fog
Moderate Wind & Rain
Brisk wind do.

Remarks
Took in the first reef of the Topsails.

[Page 251]
Wednesday, January ye 19th 1774

Weather
Brisk wind with rain

Remarks
Let the reef out of the main Topsail.

Weather
Do. drizling rain

Remarks
Passed by a large bed of sea weed.

Weather
Do. do.
Moderate wind & thin Cloud
Do. Clear

Remarks
A great swell from the W.N.W.
Met with the first Island of Ice this time.
Variation by Azimuth 10° 26½ E.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Unbent the fore-topsail & bent another.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
A great swell. Two Islands of Ice in sight.

Thursday, January ye 20th 1774

Weather
Cloudy Weather

Remarks
A great swell from the N.W.
Took in the first and second reefs of the fore & mizen topsails, & the first reef of ye main Topsail.

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy
Do. snow

Remarks
Tacked ship. Handed ye mizen topsail & took in ye 2nd reef of ye M. Topsail.
Handed the fore topsail.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Set the fore-topsail.

Weather
Do. squally

Remarks
Tacked ship.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. & cloudy with sleet

Remarks
Saw the same Island of Ice that we [indecipherable] yesterday morning.

[Page 252]
Friday, January ye 21st 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & foggy
Squally Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
An ugly short jacking sea something like which is usually met with in the Chops of the English Channel.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. with snow
Do. sleet
Do. do.

Saturday, January ye 22nd 1774

Weather
Little Wind with rain

Remarks
Let a reef out of the Topsails.
Set the Mizen Topsail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Passed by two Islands of Ice.
Variation by Azimuth 9° 48’ E.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Very smooth water.
Passed another Ice Island

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy
Do. foggy
Do. sleet

Remarks
Let the 2nd reef out of the Topsails.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Not a Bird of any sort to be seen these two Days passed.

[Page 253]
Sunday, January ye 23rd 1774

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Passed by one Island of Ice.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 11° 55’ E. doubtfull.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Took in the second reef of the Top sails.
Handed the Mizen Topsails.

Weather
Strong wind do.

Remarks
Passed one Island of Ice.

Weather
Do. do.
Brisk wind do.

Remarks
Let out ye 2nd reef of the Topsails & set the Mizen topsail.
A very great sea with long Waves form the S.S.W.

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Out all reefs of the main Topsail.
The swell continues; but more irregular than in ye morning.

Monday, January ye 24th 1774

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.
Moderate wind & sleet
Do. & Foggy
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Let the reef out of the fore Topsail & got up the top Gallt. yards.
Variation by Azimuth
(15° 48 3/8’ E. Ship’s Head S.S.E.
(25 27¾ E. S.W.W.
(19 38 E. S.S.E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The South West swell still continues.

[Page 254]
Tuesday, January ye 25th 1774

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 19° 26½ E.

Weather
Do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Passed by one Island of Ice.

Weather
Little Wind do.

Remarks
Nine Islands of Ice in sight.
Variation by Azimuth 18° 22’ E.
Saw a remarkably strong appearance of Land to the Eastward, hauled on a wind & stood towards it.
Tried soundings; but found no Ground with 120 fathoms.

Weather
Do. do.

Wednesday, January ye 26th 1774

Weather
Little wind & hazy Wr.
Do. do.
Thick fog
Modr. wind & thick fog

Remarks
A swell form the north-east.

Weather
Do. & foggy with rain
Do. & thick fog
Do. do.
Do. fog & small rain

Remarks
Saw several Birds of different sorts.

[Page 255]
Thursday, January ye 27th 1774

Weather
Modr. wind with thick fog.
Do. do. do.
Do. do. sleet

Remarks
Took in the first reef of the Topsails.
The swell continues from the N.E.
Passed two Ice Islands.

Weather
Brisk wind with sleet
Do. with thick fog

Remarks
Four Island of Ice in sight.
Let out all Reefs.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
This morning one of the midshipmen broke the [indecipherable] of the Cylinder of my stop Watch whilst I was out of my Cabbin.

Weather
Do. do.

Friday, January ye 28th 1774

Weather
Moderate wind & thick fog

Remarks
About one o’Clock fell in with a long reef of small Ice. Brought too & hoisted out the Boats to fetch some on board for water.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Hoisted in the Boats and made sail.

Weather
Do. foggy
Do. Clear

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 23° 11’ E.
Set the Studding sails.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 22 11½ E.
Passed by several Islands of Ice.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Four Islands of Ice in sight.

[Page 256]
Saturday, January ye 29th 1774

Weather
Modr. wind & Clear
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(24 46) E.
(24 32)

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
This evening we passed by a Piece of sea-weed which had many Barnacles on it: a large Albatross of the grey sort was swimming beside of it, & picking them off.

Weather
Do. & thick fog

Remarks
Wore ship
Wore ship

Weather
Do. do.
Do. Cloudy in a lining tea fog

Remarks
Discovered a large field of Ice a head, extending east and west beyond in sight from the mast-head. At a distance it appeard very high and like a fixed solid map with many high mountainous parts in it for when we came nearer it we found its edge was scarce higher than the water & composed of small pieces close jambed together & the high parts very large Islands which were amongst it; but further on it still appeared high, and as if one solid piece; though this, I [indecipherable] was a deception as well as the other. Along way within ye field (which we could not see over) was the appearance of a long ridge of very high [indecipherable] Ice; but I am of opinion this was nothing more than a Fog bank illuminated by the rays of light which were reflected from the Ice. I consider it

Sunday, January ye 30th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind with thick fog & snow

Remarks
improbable that it should be Ice or Snow, unless land was under it, of which we had no other signs.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. thick fog
Do. and clear at Intervals
Do. & thick fog
Do. & foggy

[Page 257]
Monday, January ye 31st 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & foggy
Do. do.

Remarks
Saw an Island of Ice, which we bore away for, in order to take up what loose Ice might be about it for water; but found none.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. thick fog
Little Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 28° 32’ E. Doubtfull.
One Island of Ice a head.

Weather
Moderate wind do.

Remarks
The Ice Island yet a head.

Tuesday, February ye lst 1774

Weather
Moderate breeze & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Came up with the abovementioned Island of Ice & finding some scattered Pieces about it the Boats were hoisted out to take them up & bring them on board for water.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Hoisted in the Boats and made sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Passed one Island of Ice.
A great swell from the N.E.

Weather
Do. do.

[Page 258]
Wednesday, February ye 2nd 1774

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Passed by one Island of Ice.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. with snow
Do. do.
Do. do.
Little Wind & Cloudy

Thursday, February ye 3rd 1774

Weather
Little Wind & hazy
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Variationby Azim.
(23° 01¼’) E. different Compasses
(23 34)

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Little Wind do.

Remarks
Variation by Azim.
23° 25 1/3) E.
24 47 1/3)
Longit. by dist. O a D 260° 04¼’ E.

Weather
Do. Clear

[Page 259]
Fridiay, February 4th 1774

Weather
Little Wind & Clear
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 27° 07 2/3’ E.

Weather
Do. & Flying Clouds
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. snow
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O a D 260° 28’ E. Very doubtfull.

Weather
Do. & drizling rain.

Remarks
Took in a reef of the Topsails.

Saturday, February ye 5th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind with snow

Remarks
Took in the 2nd reef of the Topsails & got down ye Top Gallt Yards. In ten minutes, from haveing as much wind as we could carry dble reefed Topsails, it came quite Calm.

Weather
Calm & Flying Clouds

Remarks
Let out all reefs.
Variation by Azimuth
(18° 49 1/3’) E.
(19 22 2/3)

Weather
Little Wind do.
Do. do.

Remarks
A swell from the Northward.
Tacked ship.

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy
Calm with snow & hail.

Remarks
Taken aback. A very large water-spout to the North-East.

Weather
Little Wind & Flying Clouds

Remarks
Got up the top Gallt. Yards.
Saw a Diver.

[Page 260]
Sunday, February ye 6th 1774

Weather
Moderate wind & Flying Clouds
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Brisk wind do.

Remarks
Took in the first reef of the Topsails and got down the Top Gallt. yds.
Handed the mizen Topsail.

Weather
Strong Wind do.

Remarks
Split both the fore and main Topsails all to pieces; bent others and set them close reefed.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. & Flying Clouds

Remarks
A diver was seen.

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Set the Mizen Topsail.

Monday, February ye 7th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Set the third reef out of the main top sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Squally with sleet
Brisk wind & showers of snow
Do. do.

[Page 261]
Tuesday, February ye 8th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Let out all reefs.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Took in the first reef of the Topsails.

Weather
Do. & squally with rain
Do. do.

Remarks
Took in the second reef of the Topsails.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Wednesday, February ye 9th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. Rain
Do. & Cloudy

Remarks
Carried away the Mizen Topsail sheet, [indecipherable] & the sail.
Let out the 2nd reef of the Main Topsails.
Split the Sprit sail – unbent it.

Weather
Squally with Rain
Strong Wind & Cloudy

[Page 262]
Thursday, February ye 10th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(15° 32’) E.
(15 05)

Weather
Do. do.
Do. Rain
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Hoisted the Mizen Topsail, & dble reefed the fore & main Topsails.

Weather
Do. do.

Friday, February ye 11th 1774

Weather
Strong Gales & Cloudy

Remarks
The water rose and fell in Dr. Lind’s Wind Gage 6/10 of an Inch in the intervals between the Squals. When the Squals came on it rose & fell 3/10 & one a whole Inch which is more than I have ever seen before. At 4 oClock handed the Topsails.

Weather
Very squally & flying clouds
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
A very great sea.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Set the Topsails dble reefed.
Let out the 2nd reefs of the Topsails.

Weather
Do. Clear

Remarks
Let out all reefs.
Got up the Top Gallt. yards.

Weather
Do. do.

[Page 263]
Saturday, February ye 12th 1774

Weather
Little Wind & fine Wr.
Calm do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 13° 55½’ E.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Moderate wind do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Passed by a large piece of Drift wood.

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds

Sunday, February ye 13th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & flying clouds
Do. Clear

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 14° 46 E.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. & drizling rain
Do. do.
Do. do.

[Page 264]
Monday, February ye 14th 1774

Weather
Little Wind & foggy with drizzling rain
Clear

Remarks
A swell from the south-west.
Variation by Azimuth
(12° 31¼’) E.
(12 38)

Weather
Little wind and clear
do.
Cloudy

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 10° 20’ E. doubtfull.

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy
Do. and thick foggy Wr.

Remarks
Tacked ship.

Tuesday, February ye 15th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & thick fog
Do. do.

Remarks
It is a little remarkable that in all our track to the southward, this Season, we have never once seen the least Glimpse of the Southern Lights: Indeed I don’t, at present, recollect that we have had one night, in all the time, clear enough for their appearance.

Weather
Do. do.
Moderate Wind & foggy with drizzling rain.
Do. do.

Remarks
Carried away the jib stay and Down-haul, and split the sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Brisk wind & foggy

Remarks
Took in the first reef of the Topsails.

[Page 265]
Wednesday, February ye 16th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & foggy
Do. do.

Remarks
Carried away the weather fore topsail sheet. Took in the 2nd reef of the fore topsail and handed the Mizen Topsail.

Weather
Do. & thick Cloudy weather

Remarks
Took in ye 2nd reef of the main-top sail & got down the top Gallt. Yd.

Weather
Squally with Rain

Remarks
A great irregular sea which makes the ship very uneasy.

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Let out the second reef of the topsails and got up the top Gallant Yards.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Many Albatrosses about the ship some of which seem the largest I have ever seen.

Weather
Do. do.

Thursday, February ye 17th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Carried away the main top-mast Back Stay. Spliced it.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Took in the second reef of the fore Topsail & handed the Mizen Topsail.

Weather
Do. Rain
Hard squalls with rain

Remarks
Set the Mizen Topsail.
Let out the second reef of the topsails.

Weather
Strong Wind & Flying Clouds
Do. do.

[Page 266]
Friday, February ye 18th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & Flying Clouds
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by dist. Sun & Moon 265° 54½’ E.
Variation by Azimuth 13° 16’ E. very dubious.

Weather
Do. do.
Moderate wind & Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Let the 1st reef out of the Main Topsail.

Weather
Do. do.

Saturday, February ye 19th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. of ye Sun & Moon 264° 16¼’ E.
Variation by Azimuth 10° 05½’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
Let the first reef out of the fore Topsails.

Weather
Do. clear

[Page 267]
Sunday, February ye 20th 1774

Weather
Moderate wind & Clear
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. Sun & Moon 264° 59½’ E.
Variation by Azimuth 7° 21½’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Many Grampuses about – Shot two.
Variation by Azimuth 8° 03’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Monday, February ye 21st 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & Clear
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist Sun & Moon 266° 13¼’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 7° 41’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

[Page 268]
Tuesday, February ye 22nd 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & drizly Rain

Remarks
Set the fore top-mast studding sails.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. do.
Showers
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. & flying Clouds
Do. do.

Wednesday, February ye 23rd 1774

Weather
Moderate wind & flying Clouds
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. D a
(Regulus 263° 58½’) E.
(Aldebaran 263 43½)
Variation by Azimuth 9 31 2/3 E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 8° 8’ E.

Weather
Do. & flying Clouds
Do. do.

[Page 269]
Thursday, February ye 24th 1774

Weather
Moderate wind & flying Clouds
Brisk Wind & do.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Took in the first reef of the topsails.

Weather
Squally with Rain
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Took in the 2nd reef of the Topsails.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Friday, February ye 25th 1774

Weather
Moderate wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Let out the 2nd reef of the Topsails
Variation by Azimuth 6° 50’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Squally do.
Brisk Wind & Flying Clouds
Do. do.

[Page 270]
Saturday, February ye 26th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 5° 53’ E. dubious.

Weather
Do. do.
Moderate wind & do.
Do. do.

Remarks
It is much to be regretted that the Cloudy weather hinders me from taking the moon’s dist. from Spica, on one side of her or Pollux on the other since those observations would in all probability have given the Longit. of the Ship free from all errors either of the Tables, Instruments or Observing, as each Star might, this night, have been taken from ye [indecipherable] limb of the Moon.

Weather do. & flying Clouds
Do. do.

Sunday, February ye 27th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Clear
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by the D’s dist. from
(Regulus 257° 46’ E.
(Spica 258 17 E.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. & Flying Clouds
Do. Clear

[Page 271]
Monday, February ye 28th 1774

Weather
Moderate wind & cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Little Wind with Rain
Do. Clear

Remarks
Longit. by dist. O & D 257° 49¼’ E. Back Observation.
Variation by Azimuth 3° 15’ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Tuesday, March ye 1st 1774

Weather
Little Wind & Clear weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 4° 23’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 5° 04’ E.
Longit. by Dist. Sun & Moon 257° 58¾’ E. [indecipherable] Observatn.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Omnium verum Viscissitude, say my brother Star gazers and though they have worn the expression thread bare I am fully convinced by experience it is not a job the less true for its scarcely 3 weeks ago we were miserable on acc. of ye cold, we are now wretched with ye heat: the latter is I think less supportable of ye two, as being attended with a sickly appetite, but Salt Beef & pork, without vegetables for 14 weeks running, would probably cure a Glutton, even in England.

[Page 272]
Wednesday, March ye 2nd 1774

Weather
Little Wind & clear
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 5° 02 1/3’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. Sun & Moon 258° 18’ E. Back observation.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
This forenoon a tropic Bird was seen and also one of those usually called men-of-war Birds.

Weather
Do. do.

Thursday, March ye 3rd 1774

Weather
Moderate wind & Clear

Remarks
Bent another main-topsail & reeved lighter Tacks & sails.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 4° 26½’ E.

Weather
Little Wind & Clear
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 5° 13’ E.
Longit. by dist. Sun & Moon 259° 6 E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

[Page 273]
Friday, March ye 4th 1774

Weather
Little Wind & Clear Weather

Remarks
For everal Days past we have not had the least swell from any quarter; but this forenoon the swell has begun to come from the S.S.W.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 5° 40’ E.

Weather
Calm do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 6° 53’ E. Ship’s head S. Werly.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. Sun & Moon 259° 10’ E.
The south-west swell considerably increased, which gives us some hopes of a wind from that quarter. We have much need of it, for the heat, this calm weather, is almost insupportable. [indecipherable] sauce to salt Beef, and a bad appetite!

Saturday, Marchy ye 5th 1774

Weather
Light Air and clear weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 5° 26 1/3’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. Rain

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. Sun & Moon 259° 06’ E.

Weather
Moderate Wind & Flying Clouds

[Page 274]
Sunday, March ye 6th 1774

Weather
Moderate wind and flying Clouds

Remarks
Many Birds about the ship of Different sorts.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
A piece of Sponge passed by the ship.
Variation by Azimuth 4° 11’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Little Wind do.
Moderate Wind do.

Remarks
Many Bonitos about the ship: Catched five & might have got many more if our Tackling had not been bad.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by dist. Sun & Moon 258° 03¼ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Monday, March ye 7th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & flying Clouds

Remarks
Passed by another large Piece of sponge.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Passed by a lump of Sea-weed.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Catched two more Bonitos, and lost several others through the badness of our Tackle.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 4° 31’ E.
Longit. by Dist. Sun & Moon 256 28¼ E.
Saw a Gannet, four Men-of-War Birds, and several others of different sorts.

Weather
Do. do.

[Page 275]
Tuesday, March ye 8th 1774

Weather
Modr. Wind & flying Clouds
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Several small pieces of Sponge went past the Ship & a small dryed leaf not much unlike a Bay leaf.
Longit. by dist. Sun & Moon 255° 50’ E. a little doubtfull.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Many Men-of-War and Tropic Birds about the ship.
Passed by a sea snake: it was speckled, black & white, & in every respect like those we used to see at Tonga Tabu and the Society Islands.

Wednesday, March ye 9th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & flying Clouds
Do. do.

Remarks
Great flocks of Birds of different sorts.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Bent the best bower cable.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. flying Clouds

[Page 276]
Thursday, March ye 10th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & flying Clouds

Remarks
A great number of Birds about the ship.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Hauled up the Fore sail and brought too Main-Topsail to the Mast.

Weather
Do. showers
Do. flying Clouds

Remarks
Set the studding sails.
Saw Land from the Mast Head. Many have been the [indecipherable] concerning Easter Island: [indecipherable] the existence of it has been frequently disputed but if this land answers but as I will the descriptions, as it will to the situation transmited from Roggevein’s own Journal by Valentin, we shall soon now meet with Entertainment both for the Body & Mind.

Weather
Little Wind & flying Clouds

Remarks
At noon the Land bore from W ½ N to W ¾ S and the distance was extimated 8 Leas.

Friday, March ye 11th 1774

Weather
Little Wind & flying Clouds
Do. do.

Remarks
At six o’Clock shortened sail: the North End of the Island bearing N. 58° W. and the South End S. 89° W.
At 7 o’Clock wore ship: sounded; but found no Ground with 146 fms.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Wore ship.

Weather
Calm do.

Remarks
At 6 o’Clock in the morning the Northern Extream of the Island bore N. 42° W. & the southern extream S. 76 W.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Saw by the Help of our spying Glasses several very large Statues, or Obelisks; which I take to be the Idols mentioned by the Relators of Rogevein’s Voyage.

Weather
Light Airs do.

Remarks
At Noon the Northern Extreme of the Island N.W. and the southern Extream W. b. N.

[Page 277]
Saturday, March ye 12th 1774

Weather
Light Airs & flying Clouds
Do. do.

Remarks
Tacked about a mile and half from the shore in 85 fms.
Tacked Ship again.
Tacked a third time at 6 o’Clock the Southern Extream bearg. S. 67 W. and the No. Extream N. 2° E. about 2 miles off shore in 70 fm.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Tacked North Ext. N.N.E. the So. Ext. W.S.W. 47 fm. Sand & shells.
At 14h. Tacked in 110 fm.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Tacked No. Ext. N.E., So. Ext. S.W. b. W.

Weather
Moderate Wind do.

Remarks
Saw several of the Natives running along shore and making signs to us by waving pieces of Cloth.

Weather
Squally with Rain

Remarks
A Canoe in which were two of the Natives came off to the ship & they brought with them a Bunch of ripe Plantains. The Natives seemed brisk active lively fellows and rather tall & slender. The boat had a high head & stern like those used by ye Portuguese at Madeira.
At noon the most fartherly point of ye Island bore S.S.E. and the most Northerly one in sight N.E. This is not that formerly set.

March ye 13th 1774
Moderate wind south-easterly, and flying Clouds. About 3 o'Clock the Cutter was hoisted out & the Master sent in her to examine a small Bay which is on the west side of the Island. He returned about five and brought with him one of the Natives who had sworn off to the Boat. This man was of a middle height, rather slender and seemed to be about 50 years of Age. His Complexion was of a dark Copper-Colour, his Eyes a dark brown & his hair black and cut short. His beard was black short and bushy, and his Features did not seem to differ materially from those of Europeans. He appeared very brisk and Active, and to take much notice of what was round him, at least more than is usual for other Natives of the Southern Islands to do. The pendant parts of his Ears had long slits in them, and were extended to at least 2 Inches in length; when he saw us taking notice of them, he turned the slits over the upper parts, so that at first look it might have been conjectured the small flap had been cut away. At a little past 6 oClock the Ship anchored off the Above mentioned Bay in 36 fathoms water with the small bower.
About three oClock in the morning it was discovered that the ship was driving, on which the Anchor was hove up, and sail made to windward in order to gain the bank again. At 8 oClock the Pinnace and Cutter were hoisted out and the Capt. & some other Gentlemen went on shore to see what might be expected from the Island and particularly if any water could be had: as I had nothing material in hand I made one of the Company; and the Ship stood on and off in the interim. The Native, who without the least concern had staid on board all night went in the [Pinnace]. Several hundreds of the Natives were gathered together on the Shore to receive us; and many sworn off to meet the boats some of which we took up, but the boats would not carry the tenth part of them who sworn off. As we approached the Shore, we discovered a sort of breast work of very neat hewn stone which we conceived had been the work of some European, more especially as there was the appearance of an Embrasure on that side which faced us; but on going on shore we found it to be entirely the work of the Natives, and that there had formerly stood on it two of those Colossean Statues which are mentioned above; but that they were now fallen down, and broken to pieces: What we took for an Embrasure was a Place where a very large stone had fallen out of the wall. The workmanship was not inferior to the best plain piece of Masonry that I have seen in England. The side Walls were not perpendicular but inclining a little inwards, in the manner that the Breast works and forts in Europe are; but there was no sort of Cement in the Joints. We landed without the least ceremony, for we saw not a weapon of any sort

[Page 278]
March 13th 1774
in the hands of any of the Natives; and as soon as we had done so they crowed round us & brought us roasted Potatoes, & sugar-cane, both of which were very acceptable; but the latter did not contain much juice. We presented them with some Nails and Trinkets in return; but I observed that when any one gave to us, I observed that there were at least half a dozen others ready to beg it of us again, and I had one snatched out of my hands: from whence I concluded that property is not quite equally divided here any more than in England. They were exceeding loving, and desirous of walking arm-in-arm with us; but we were not long in discovering their drift in doing so: my handkerchief was gone in an Instant, and one of our people detected another of them taking away a small brass achromatic spy-glass which I had in my Pocket. After much fruitless search and Enquiry by signs, I was at last lucky enough to find out a well, pretty convenient for watering at but the water was neither fresh nor sweet: it however determined the Capt to come to an Anchor & stay a day or two. All round the beach where we landed the Island seemed very barren, and entirely covered with stones. There were Notwithstanding some plantations of Potatoes, and we saw a few Fowls, but not many and they would part with none. We saw, I think, at least 500 Men; but not more than 6 or 8 women a disproportion which surprized us much. There can be no doubt but that some European Ships have been here since Roggewein's time, as we Saw one man who had a pretty good European hat on: it had a very broad brim, like those usually worn by the Portuguese or Spaniards. Another had one of those Jackets on, usually known by the name of Grekos, and it was in no bad plight. I saw one who had got the handle of an English pewter spoon hung by a string round his Neck; I call it English because it had on the back part an X with a crown over it: this last might have been left by Roggewein; but the others, I think, could not.
A little before Noon we returned on board and the Ship anchored in 32 fathoms, the bottom a dark sand. When a whole Gable was veered out the Ship lay in 41 fathoms, and about a mile & half from the bottom of the Bay which we landed in: the most southerly point of the Island bearing S. ¾ W. dist. about 3 miles and the most northerly one in sight N. 25° E. dist. about 6 miles. At noon I observed the Meridian Altitude of the sun’s lower limit to be 65° 20’ & from thence computed the Latitude of the place where the ship anchored 27° 08’ S.

14th.
Moderate breezes Easterly and flying Clouds. Went on Shore to Examine the Tide by a mark which I had made in the morning, and found that it rose about 2 feet; but this could not be determined with any great nicety on account of the great surf which sets in; and I think it was highest abt. 3 oClock; but this is even much more uncertain than the other, for the same reason; to which must be added the small rise and fall of the Water.
After having determined this point in the best Manner I was able Mr. Hodge, the Draughtsman, & myself set out to Cross the Island; but had not proceeded far before the Natives became too troublesome to venture farther, so we turned again for a Musquet, which those People have by some persons or other been taught to pay a great deal of difference to, and we now walked untill we saw the other side without much molestation, all leaving us but one Man, who would be very kind, and very officious offering frequently to carry the Musquet for us, which we on our part declined with proper Acknowledgements, to his great grief. He ever and anon called to such of his Countrymen as he saw near the road we passed, and' when they came to him they droped behind and seemed to consult together concerning us; but as none of them had any weapons we walked on without the least regard to him or them, and they soon left him & he picked up others. We continued our Course untill we could see the greatest part of the South East side of the Island, and then sat down to take a sketch of it and rest ourselves. After we had done what we were about I got up to return & took up the Musquet, when the Man walked past Mr Hodge snatched his hat off from his head & ran away with it. I cocked and pointed the Musquet without thought of any thing but firing at him; but when I saw a fellow Creature within 20 Yards of its muzzle I began to think his life worth more than a hat, and as to the Insult, rot it! let him who next offends on the presumption of haveing gone clear this time punish it. As to the Owner of it.

He sat like Patience on a Monument
Smiling at Grief.—

We varied our road in our return, for

The Land was all before us where to chuse

and nothing to hinder us; but wherever we came whether Cultivated or not the Ground was covered with large rough stones, not much unlike the Matter which is thrown out of an iron furnace.
We saw no sort of wood on the Island but one, the leaf and seed of which are not much unlike

[Page 279]
those of the common Vetch, only the Pod resembles perhaps more that of a Tamarind in its size & shape. The seeds have a most disagreeable bitter tast and the Natives when they saw us chew them made signs for us to spit them out, from whence we concluded that they think it poysonous. The Wood is pretty hard, of a redish colour & rather heavy; but very crook'd and small: we saw none above 6 or 7 feet high. The Natives call it Torromedo. We passed through many Plantations of sweet-Potatoes; but most of them poor and small, and one or two Plantain-Walks; but saw no fruit on any of the Trees. We met not with one drop of water in all this circuit, and on the whole the Island seemed to us scarce sufficient for the sustenance of Human Nature.
We visited several of their Houses which are miserable enough. They are formed by setting sticks upright in the Ground at 4 or 5 feet distance and bending them towards each other and tying them together at the top, forming thereby a sort of Gothic Arch; the longest sticks are in the Middle, and they place shorter & shorter each way, and at a less distance asunder by which means the Building is highest & broadest in the Middle & lower & narrower towards each end. To these, which serve as Raftors are tyed others horizontally, and the whole is thatched over with the leaves of sugar Canes, or some such like Plant. The Door way is in the Middle of one side and is formed like a sort of Porch, and may be about as high & large as the mouth of a common Oven, so that a man can barely crawl in on his hands and knees. They are exceeding dark holes, without any kind of Utensils, seemingly calculated for no other purpose but to creep into when it rains.
The Capt. having ordered a Party to go round the Island & see what it produced, I took that Opportunity of doing the same, as also to enable myself to give a better sketch of the Coast, as this may be done with much more exactness from an Eminence within the land than it can from the ship; by this means too I could in some measure add to the certainty of its dimensions by observing carfully the Time we were walking from point to point. We set out about 9 oClock in the Morning, and crossed directly from the little Bay where the ship was at Anchor to the south west side of the Island followed by a great Croud of the Natives who pressed much upon us: but we had no proceeded far before a middle aged Man punctured all over from head to foot and painted, or rather daubed with a sort of white earth on his face appeared with a spear in his hand and walked along side of us, making signs to his Countrymen to keep at a distance and suffer us to walk unmolested and when he had pretty well effected this he hoisted a piece of white cloth on his spear and carried it before us stopping when we stopped, and when he saw us preparing to set forward he placed himself in the front & led the way with his Ensign of Peace, as we interpreted it to be. For the greater part of the distance across the ground was every where covered with stones as hath been described above; but notwithstanding this there were amongst them many large tracks of land planted with sweet Potatoes and here and there a Plantain walk; but I saw no fruit on any of the Trees. Towards the highest part of this end of the Island the soil seemed to be much better than any I had seen before, being of a fine red earth and not covered with stones as in the other parts; but here there were neither houses nor Plantations; for which no doubt a Reason is to be assigned although I did not see any.
On the other side near the sea, we met with three Platforms of Stonework, or rather the ruins of them equal neat and curious with that already described. On each of these had stood four of those large Statues but they were all fallen down from two of them, and also one from the third, every one except one were broken with the fall and otherways defaced; but I measured the whole one and found it 15 feet in length & 6 feet broad over the shoulders. Each Statue had on its head a large Cylindric Stone of a red Colour and worked so truly round that some insisted that they must have been turned into that form; but I suppose the size will be a sufficient refutation of that opinion, as one, and that apparently not by far the largest was 52 Inches high and 66 in diameter. In some the upper corner of the Cylinder was taken off in a sort of concave quarter-round; but in others the Cylinder was entire. The Statues themselves are of a soft greyish stone very different from any other which I saw on the Island, and had in my opinion much the Appearance of being factitious. The Walls of one of the Platforms had on it a Coping of the red stone rounded on the upper side, and in the under one were deep Mortices into which [indecipherable] formed on the upper stones of the Wall in a very neat & artful manner; yet has not [indecipherable], Pains and sagacity been able to preserve these curious structures from the ravages of all [indecipherable] Time.
We went from hence North eastward according to the direction of the Coast, and presently crossed a place where the earth had been taken away for some purpose or other to the bare Rock which seemed to be a very poor sort of Iron Ore. As we continued our March we discovered that this was by far the more fertile part of the Island. It being frequently interspersed with large Plantations of Potatoes, sugar-Canes and Plantain Trees, and those not so much cumbered with stones as those which we had seen heretofore. On this side also the Natives twice or thrice brought us water, which although brackish, (I might say salt) and intolerably stinking, our excessive thirst made very acceptable. We also passed four or five Huts, the Owners of which came running out to us with roasted Potatoes & Sugar Canes & having placed themselves ahead of the foremost of us, for we all waked in a line, on account of the Path-way) gave to each as he

[Page 280]
passed by one. They observed the same method in distributing the water which they brought us, and were very careful that the foremost by drinking more than his share should not leave none for the Hindmost. At the last day, when the Widow's two Mites are remembered, may this hospitallity of the poor Easter Islanders not be forgot!- It was relieving the thirsty & hungry indeed! and what reccompence was in our power to bestow was small enough, it seemed however acceptable; and if it did but do them the good they deserve it will do them much indeed. But at the same time im-partiallity obliges me to confess that there were not wanting, especially amongst those who followed us several who endeavoured to steal from us at every Opportunity, and sometimes carried it so far as to snatch from us the very things which had been given us by others. Nay at last, to prevent worse Consequences, we were obliged to fire a load of small shot at one, who was so audacious as to snatch a bag which contained every thing we had brought with us from the Man who Carried it. The shot hit him in the back, on which he droped the Bag, ran a little way & then droped; but he afterwards got up & walked, and what became of him afterwards I know not, some of the others led him off. As this affair stoped us some little time the Natives gathered together & presently we saw the Man who had led the way hitherto & one or two more come runing towards us when they came up to us they did not stop but run round us repeating in a kind recitative manner a few words, and they continued to do so untill we set forwards again when our old friend hoisted again his Cloth & led the way as before, & none ever attempted to steal from us the whole day afterwards.
About the Mid-way, on this side, on a small eminence we met with several of the Natives amongst which was one whom we soon discovered to be a Chief amongst them: to him our friend, after some ceremony, delivered his white flag, & he gave it to another who carried it before us the remainder of the day: some presents of Nails, Otahitee Cloth, &c. were made to the Chief, by the Officer who commanded the Party, after which we took our leave, & proceeded on our way.
Towards the eastern end of the Island we met with a Well whose water was perfectly fresh; being considerable above the level of the sea; but it stunk much, owing to the filthyness, or cleanliness (call it which you will) of the Natives who never go to drink without washing themselves all over as soon as they have done, and if ever so many of them are together, the first leaps right into the middle of the hole drinks & washes himself without the least ceremony, after which another takes his place and does the same. This water however, as being perfectly fresh, was highly acceptable to us, notwithstanding, at least twenty of them had drunk & washed themselves in it immediately before we came up.
This side of the Island is full of those Colossean Statues which I have mentioned so often, some placed in Groups on platforms of Masonry others single and without any being fixed only in the Earth, and that not deep; these latter are in general much larger than the others. I measured one which was fallen down & found it very near 27 feet long & upwards of 8 feet over the breast, or shoulders and yet this appeared considerably short of the size of one which we dined near: its shade at a little past 2 oClock being sufficient to shelter all our party, consisting of near 30 persons from the Rays of the sun.
The Workmanship of these stupendous Figures, although rude is not bad, nor the features of the Face ill formed: their Noses and Chins, in particular, are exceeding well executed. They are as near as I guess about half length ending in a sort of Stump at the Bottom on Which they stand. In the Accounts which we have of Roggewein's Voyage, they are said to be Idols and that the Natives were seen paying adoration to them at sunrise: How these Gentlemen could see this I must confess I cannot tell, it is certain they were not then on Shore, & I am confident few People would venture to anchor within less than a Mile & half from any of the shores of this Island.- a long distance to speak so positively of what these people were doing! But be this as it may it is very certain They have now gotten much the better of those Idolatrous Practises seeing that not one Person amongst them was observed to pay them the least reverence or respect whatever. Was I to hazard a conjecture I should rather think they have been errected to the Memory of some of their Ancient Chiefs & possibly may mark the places where they were buried: It is certain that we found pieces of Human bones amongst the ruins of some of them and this circumstance has already been brought to prove that human Sacrifices have formerly at least been made to them. They give different Names to them, such as Marahate, Hadarego, Arrahoa &c &c to which they always prefix the word Mot, and sometimes annex Areki: the former, as near as we could gather signifies a burying place, and the other a Chief although some say they understood it to Mean Sleep.
It appears very surprizing to me how they could bring and raise those prodigeous Masses of Stone, and still more how they could place the large Cylindric Stones which has been mentioned on

[Page 281]
the Heads of them afterwards: if indeed the former are factitious they might have been put together on the place and in the position they now stand, and I know not or have heard of any probable Means which could have been used to effect the latter unless a sort of Mount or scaffolding of Stones or Earth has been raised in shelving form equal to the hight of the Statue up which they may have rolled the Cylinder, and even then it would have been found no easy matter to have placed it on its head without throwing it down: This it must be owned must have been a work of immense Time Labour and Patience, and therefore no wonder it seems now to have been long discontinued for not one that we saw has the least appearance of being modern; however if it be a reason for discontinnuing the errecting of them it could be none to the taking care of those which were already set up, in which point there seems to be as great a difficiency amongst the present Natives as in the former, and there is some reason to believe that in a few years there will be few or none standing.

15th.
At dinner we could get no fresh Water except two Bottle which we had brought with us from the last mentiond Well. What was brought us here by the Natives being rank salt Water; but I observed that some of them drank pretty plentifully even of this; so far will necessity and Custom get the better of Nature! On this account we were obliged to return to the Well, where having drunk round we directed our rout right across the Island towards the Ship, as it was now four o'Clock, and in this walk which for about 5 Miles was all up-hill we suffered exceedingly through thirst. In a small Hollow On the highest part of the Island we met with several of ye Cylinders which I have observed were placed on the Heads of the Statues, some of which appeared larger than any which we had seen before but it was now too late to stop to measure them. Is it not possible this might have been a quarey where those stones might formerly have been dug, from whence it would have been no difficult matter to rol them down after they were formed.
On the declivity of the Mountain towards the west, we met with another Well; but the water was a very strong Mineral, had a thick green scum on the Top and stunk worse than that of Harrogate in Yorkshire: necessity however made it go down, and I drank a pretty large draught of it; but had not gone One hundred Yards before I got eased of it the same way it went down: in short it made me so sick that I could not proceed for some time, and I did not join the Party again before I got to the Beach off which the Ship lay.
In all this long Excursion, or in that I took yesterday I saw no tree or indeed wood of any sort except that I have mentioned above; we saw indeed in several places the Otahitee Cloth Plant; but very poor and weak never more than two or at most 2 ½ feet high. There was indeed in one place at ye South west corner of the Island a small shrub whose leaf was not much unlike that of an Ash. The wood of it was white & brittle in some measure resembling that of the Ash.
We saw not one Animal of any sort, or bird, except a few tame fowls, and a Noddy or two, which also were kept tame by the Natives, and of which they seemed very fond and [indecipherable] or, on the whole, any thing which can induce ships that are not in the utmost distress to touch at this Island. The Tide, as I was informed by one of the Masters Mates who was on shore filling water, and whom I desired to look after it, for this day, rose 2 feet and 3 or 4 Inches and was highest between 3 and 4 oClock.
In the Morning a Man came along side in a Canoe with a single Fowl, and wanted some very particular thing for it; but what we could never find out: it was at last purchased for a Cocoa-Nut-shell; and I believe it was that he wanted. In this Canoe there were two planks more than 12 Inches broad; whence they had been got puzzled not only me but others much. It is certain no trees which will make Planks of half their breadth or even 1/3 of it grow on this Island: Can it be possible they have been made out of drift wood which has been drove on the Shore of this Island from America or [indecipherable] other Islands in the Neighbourhood from whence they have been got. It is certain we saw [indecipherable] nor were we able to get the least information on this head from any of the Natives although [indecipherable] and every Method we could think off to Obtain it. We Have been equally unfortunate in our enquiries concerning the native Name of the Island; for on comparing Notes I find we have got three several Names for it, viz. Tamareki, Whyhu, and Tuapij: They have but few words common with those of Otahitee, and did not appear expert at conversing by signs.
About 9 oClock in the Morning the Wind came from the seaward with heavy Rain on which the ship was got under way, and stood to and from whilst the Boats went on shore to purchase what Potatoes might be brought down to the landing Place by the Natives.
The Latitude of the Place where the Ship lay, and which is about 3 Miles from the South west corner of the Island, is 27°07'f s and in Longit. 249°03' East of Greenwich by Mr Kendall's Watch.
Eight observations of the Moon’s dist. from the Sun, taken before we came to the Island, the Sun being East of the D [indecipherable], the Watch show too little Longit. by 1°. 9’.20”, and 6 observations taken after leaving it the Sun being West of the D. makes the Watch shew too little by 1°. 1’. 15”; the mean is 1°. 5”. 17” which being added to 24°. 9.03’ gives 250°. 03’. 17” East for the length of the Island.

[Page 282]
Wednesday, March ye. 16th 1774

Weather
Gentle Breeze & Cloudy

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O & D 249°. 87½‘ E.

Weather
Do. Flying Clouds

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 4. 30 1/3 E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Weather
Moderate Wind, do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 3°. 32 1/3 E.

Weather
Do. Do.

Thursday, March ye. 17th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Flying Clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O & D. 248°. 51¼’ E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 3°. 15’ E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

[Page 283]
Friday, March ye. 18th 1774

Weather
Little Wind & Flying Clouds

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O & D. 248°. 52¾’ E.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 2°. 47’ E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Moderate Wind do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 3°. 41’ E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Saturday, March ye. 19th. 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Flying Clouds

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O & D. 248°. 50’ E.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 3°. 29’ E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Rain

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 3°5 2/3’ E.

Weather
Brisk wind & Flying Clouds
Do. Do.

[Page 284]
Sunday, March ye. 20th 1774

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. with showers
Squally weather
Squally with showers
Do. Do.
Brisk wind & Cloudy
Do. Flying Clouds

Monday, March ye. 21st 1774

Weather
Modr. Wind & Flying Clouds

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O & D. 246°. 12 5/8’ E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Cloudy
Do. Heavy rain
Do. Do.
Do. Cloudy
Do. Do.

[Page 285]
Tuesday, March ye. 22nd 1774

Weather
Modr. wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O & D. 245°. 10’ E.

Weather
Do. Showers
Do. flying Clouds
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Cloudy
Do. & flying Clouds

Wednesday, March yr. 23rd 1774

Weather
Modr. Wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Little wind with rain
Do. Cloudy
Moderate Wind & flying Clouds

[Page 286]
Thursday, March ye. 24th 1774

Weather
Mod. Wind & flying Clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 1°. 52’ E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Friday, March ye. 25th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Flying clouds
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 2°. 31½‘ E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

[Page 287]
Saturday, March ye. 26th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Flying clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 2°. 38’ E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 2°. 23¼’ E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Sunday, March ye. 17th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Flying Clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 2°. 10’ E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 2°. 13’ E.

Weather
Do. Do.

[Page 288]
Monday, March ye. 28th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy
Do. Flying clouds
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Tuesday, March ye. 29th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Flying Clouds
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

[Page 289]
Wednesday, March ye. 30th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Flying Clouds
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 3°. 14’ E.
Longit. by Dist. O & D. 232. 23 E. Back observations.

Weather
Do. Do.

Thursday, March ye. 31st 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Flying Clouds
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 4°. 03’ E.
Longit. by Dist. O & D. 230. 8 E. Back observations.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

[Page 290]
Friday, April ye. 1st 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Flying Clouds
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 3°. 36’ E.
Longit. by Dist. O & D. 238. 42 E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Saturday, April ye. 2nd 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Flying Clouds
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 3°. 58½’ E.
Longit. by Dist. O & D. 227. 15¾ E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

[Page 291]
Sunday, April ye. 3rd 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Flying Clouds
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 4°. 15’ E.
Longit. by Dist. O & D. 225.20 7/8 E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Monday April ye. 4th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Flying clouds
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 4°. 27’ E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

[Page 292]
Tuesday, April ye. 5th 1774

Weather
Moderate wind & Flying Clouds
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 4°. 13½’ E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Wednesday, April ye. 6th 1774

Weather
Moderate & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Squally with showers
Do. Do.
Little wind, do.
Moderate

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O & D. 222°. 11½‘ E.

Weather
Do. Hard Rain

[Page 293]
April 7th 1774
About Noon we began to enter the Straits mentioned by Mendana, as seperating the Islands of St. Christina and La Dominica which we found to answer very well to the description which is given of them in the Account of his Voyage as translated by Mr Dalrymple. When we were about half way through we saw a Bay in Christina which appeared so nearly to answer the description which is given of La Greaciosa in that Voyage except in the circumstance of being on the North side of the Island, instead of the West that Capt. Cook was in some doubt whether or no that might not be a mistake in some transcript or other, and this the Identical Bay in which Mendana Anchored; but at last he considered to proceed, and having passed the straights and turned a little towards the South we met with another which was thought to Answer much better: but here the Wind blew almost right out and came down a deep Vally which is at the bottom of the Bay in such sudden and violent Gusts, as I do not remember to have seen else where. One of them took the Ship whilst in stays, and was very near driving her on the Large perpendicular Cliff which forms the South west point of the Bay, and she had scarce got clear of that danger before another laid her flat down on her beam-Ends, and as she was now very light, and is naturally a little tender sided, I verily believe a few Minutes would have filled & sent her down if the Topsails &c had not been let go. Through these two Misfortunes we drove a considerable way to leeward of the Harbour's Mouth; but as the Water was very smooth without she soon fetched to windard again, and about 5 oClock the small Bower was let go, Just within the Mouth of the Bay in 30 fathoms, and a sandy bottom & two thirds of a Cable Veered out.
We had soon great Numbers of the Natives round us in their Canoes, but they were very cautious, and did not chuse to come very near the Ship. At length I enticed one of them to come so near as to take a sheet of writing paper from me, and when he had got it he made signs to me to send him down a rope to which he tyed a sort of Weapon which he had in his hand made not much unlike an Oar, only it is straight. After this several came near and began to barter for bread fruit which they sold us for small nails &c. when it was almost dark one of them brought us a small Pig which was bought for a broken knif. - How much I wished to see another in its Throat! may be guessed by those who have not tasted fresh meat for four or 5 Months. We observed that every Canoe had a heap of stones in its bow & every Man had a sling tied round his head.
All the Night we had Violent squalls of Wind attended with frequent and heavy showers, and early in the Morning the Natives came off again with Bread fruit which we purchased at the same rate as before viz 4 bread fruit for a sixpenny Nail, and they were by much the finest and largest fruit that I have ever seen. One of them who I suppose had got a little of the Pickeroon in him when he had got the nail refused to send up his fruit, on which the Capt. after taking exceeding good Aim not to hit him fired a musket ball close by his head the report wind and whistle of which frightened him so that he run to the other end of his boat for the fruit and sent them up Instantly.
About 7 oClock the Pinnace was Manned and I went with Capt. Cook to see whether or no the shores were accessible what the Country was likely to furnish and if there was any convenient place for Errecting My Observatory. Just as we had got into the Boat one of the Natives who was on the Opposite Gang-way catched up one of the Iron stantions to which the Man-ropes are fixed & leaped with it into the Canoe on which a Musquet was fired over him by one of the Officers, but it had no effect, another was called for, and Capt. Cook called out not to kill him but the Natives about the ship made too much noise for him to be heard. He then ordered the Pinnace to pull round as fast as possible but before it could be done two more Musquets were fired the latter of which hit him and he droped down dead in the Boat just as we got in sight. Another Man who was in the Canoe with him instantly hove the Stantion over board, and when we got along side of the Canoe sat baling out the blood, in a kind of Hysteric Laugh.
Leaving a Spectacle so dissagreable, we rowed round the Bay and sounded in several places, in which we found as near an Agreement with those Mentioned by Mendana as could well be expected, after so long an interval. We saw several fine streams of fresh water; but no great promisses of any thing else, as not a fruit Tree of any kind was to be seen, and so great a surf set every where on the shore that we could not see a place where it seemed possible to land with safety to the Boat. On this the Capt. concluded it would be best not to stop here longer than was necessary to get off a few Casks of Water, & if possible, a little fruit, and then make the best of our way to a More favourable Port. When we returned to the Ship we found that every one of the Natives had quitted her; but in two hours time they returned and trafficked as before. After Breakfast a Party of Marines were ordered on Shore to protect the Watering, and as the Horizon was Land locked both to the North & south from the Ship, I took my Sextant & a Bason of Quicksilver & went on shore with them to observe the Sun's Meridian Altitude but was disappointed. We now found it tolerable Landing amongst some Rock which we had not seen before; but even here, it is not to be done without great Care, especially towards High-Water.

[Page 294]
April ye 8th 1774.
About One oClock, or perhaps a little later, for there was no determining to any nicety on account of the surf which is the greatest here that I ever saw, it was high Water; and I took marks at three different places which appeared to me most convenient for the purpose, in order to Measure how much it fell. After winding up the Watch & Observing some Altitudes for the Time, I went again on shore with the Guard, and walked a considerable way up the Country but saw neither Person, House or Plantation of sort, nor even a single Fruit Tree. Their Houses being it should seem a long way up the Country, at least in this part of the Island. There are many which we can see from the Ship on the Ridge of a very high Range of Mountains; or rather Cliffs for they are in most places almost perpendicular. These Houses seem all Pallasaded round; but whether this be by way of fortification against an Enemy, or only as a fence to prevent Accidents by tumbling down the Precipiece may be doubted.- A little before 7 oClock we went on board, at which time, according to the best measurements I could Make the Water had fallen 3 ½ feet from two of the Marks; but near 4 feet by the other. I could not be certain, but believe it was pretty near if not quite low-water, as I could not perceive that it fell any for sometime before.
In the Morning when the Party went on shore, I took My Sextant & Quicksilver; as also the Diping Needle, and found by a mean of 12 tryals, in which the face of the Instrument was turned East and west Alternately, that the Needle's South End dipped 18°.20’ below the Horizon. At Noon I found that the Supplement of twice the Sun's Altitude (for I was obliged to use the back Observation) was 35°.18’, and that the Index of the Quad stood if off the Arch of the Quadrant; and hence that the Latitude of the Place is 9°.55’.S. This forenoon the Natives brought down to us several small Hogs, a few Chickens, and a considerable quantity of Plantains and Bread-fruit; but no Cocoa Nuts, except two, and these were both old and good for little. Strong Gust of Wind with Showers.

9th.
The Party coming off before the time of High-Water I could not get it to day, and as I knew it would be dark before the time of Low-Water I went not on shore this Afternoon but took the Opportunity of Observing some Azimuth's of the sun, and doing some other things which could not be done so well as on board the ship. We had all the Afternoon great numbers of the Natives trading with fruit & now & then a Hog, which they have always done with the utmost Honesty & fairness since the first day. In the Morning I got on shore Early enough to observe the low water which happened at or near 9 oClock, and there was less surf now than heretofore, yet far too much to determine any thing with precision. After changeing the Poles of the Needle, the Mean of twelve trials, made with the face of the needle turned alternately East and West as before, gave the dip of the Needle's south End 17°.56 ¼ ‘. The supplement of twice the sun's Altitude on the Meridian was 36°.03', and the Index stood off the Quadrantal Arch 1°.50’; and hence I compute the Latitude 9°.55 ¼ S. We trafficked while on shore for a Boat Load of fruit, some small Hogs and a few fowls. The Weather these last 24 Hours has been somewhat more regular than on the two preceeding days.
Hitherto we had not been indulged with the sight of one Woman since we came to these Islands: but this forenoon a party of several Hundreds of the Natives came down with one of their Chiefs at their Head in great pomp and form, and amongst them one Woman. She certainly was, or appeared to be considerably on the wrong side of thirty; but notwithstanding that was in the opinion of Most who saw her one of the most beautiful women that has been seen at any of the Islands in these seas. She was clad from head to foot pretty much in the same Manner, and with the same sort of Cloth as the Women of Otahitee are. She was remarkably fair; but had some freckles on her Nose and Cheeks, and her Feature were extreamly regular, soft, and agreeable, and her whole deportment meek affable, and apparently, modest in the Utmost Degree so that if this was a just sample their women must be exceedingly desirable. There was along with her a Man who carried in his Arms an exceeding beautiful Girl about 6 Years old which they gave us to understand was hers, from this circumstance & the attention which seemed paid to her by those which were About her I concluded that she was of some Rank amongst them & that Curiosity had brought her down, rather on this day than any other, as thinking probably it might be done with more safety: but some of our Gentlemen, who it must be owned are much quicker sighted, in matters of this sort, than Me, were positive she was brought down for a certain purpose, and I was near getting my self into danger by doubting it. All that can be said to the Matter is, that if it was so either the Women of this Island are ill qualified for, or the Men who brought her down were bitter bad judges in the Choice of a Whore seeing that there did not appear to be the least spark of Concupiscence in any one feature or Action; on the contrary her whole Person and demeanour bespoke her one of that sort of Women which a Man of any tolerable degree of Modesty could never think of Attempting with success.

10th.
I found the time of High water this After noon to be about half past three o'Clock: it was certainly after three and before four. It had risen 4 feet, or nearly so, by two of My Marks and something more than 3 ½ feet by the other. These Marks are on different and pretty distant parts of the Shore. This Afternoon

[Page 295]
April 10th 1774
I changed the Poles of the dipping Needle again and it then gave me the four following dips of its south End, viz. 11°.30'; 11°.20’;20'; 11°40’; 11°.45’; the difference between which and the first I am much at a loss to account for, unless I made a mistake yesterday, and did not actually change the Poles as I intended, which is very possible, and in that Case the difference is not to be wondered at, seeing that the construction of this Instrument is such as to require two seperate and very tedious adjustments, as often as the Dip Changes, and on this Account this Needle however Accurate in other particulars it may be is not convenient for a Voyage of this kind where we are continually moving from place to place & thereby changing the Dip very considerably & at every Place have many things to do, often in a little Time and under many inconveniencies. In the Morning I went on shore again & found that the Tide Ebbed out about 4 feet from the last nights High-water Mark, and that it was low-water about 10 oClock; - certainly not sooner; but my chief Errand was to try if I could not get the dipping Needle properly Adjusted; but had not time to effect it. This Circumstance is the more vexatious as I shall probably never have another Opportunity of landing so near the Equator: Clouds dissappointed me also of the Sun's Meridian Altitude. The Weather Yet Squally with Showers; but rather more Uniform than it was the first Day or two.

April 11th
About 3 o'Clock weighed and stood along shore to the southward, and at half past 4 tacked and stood over towards the Island Ohevahoa (Mendana's La Dominica) to look, as I suppose, for a Harbour in it; but after standing along the west end & finding none we stood southward again, and at 6 o'Clock the Bay we had sailed from bore S.E. ½ S. distant 7 or 8 Miles, the North-East End of Ohitahoo (St. Christina) E.S.E. ½ E. and its S.W. End S.S.E. ¼ E. The North East End of Ohevahoa N. b. W. and its South West Extream East. The Ship stood too and from all night between the two Islands under her Topsails and at 7 oClock in the morning the North West End of Ohevahoa bore N. b. E. At Noon the southernmost Point of Ohitahoo bore S.E. ½ S. The Bay where we anchored E.S.E. and the most northerly Point of the Island E. ½ S. The Weather squally with heavy showers.
These Islands were first discovered by Mendana in his last Voyage when he went to settle the Salomon Islands which he had discovered in a former one and called by him Les Marquesas de Mendosa. There are five of them although neither he nor we have seen more than four; for it is plain from his Account that we have not yet seen that which he Calls La Magdalena, nor did he see that which we first fell in with which is the most northerly of them all. La Dominica is by much the largest and lies about E.b.N. and W.b.S. I make it about 27 miles long, but not more than about 14 or 15 broad. St. Christina is about 11 miles long & 7 or 8 broad and lies about N.E.b.N. & S.W.b.S. St. Pedro (Oneteayo) is but small in comparison of either of these and so also is that with which we first saw; but the distance at which we passed & the unfavourableness of the weather hindered one from getting any thing more than barely their situations, and for the same reasons too much stress must not be laid on the figure either of La Dominica or St. Christina, which must only be considered as a rude attempt to ascertain what we knew nothing of before. The Bay we anchored in lies in Latitude 9°. 55½’ S. and Longitude 220°. 51 1/3’ as appeared from the mean of a great multitude of observations of the D’s distance from the Sun and Stars, which I reduced to the Place with great Care by the help of Mr. Kendall’s Watch: and the watch itself gave 218°. 54’. 11”E. by reckoning from Charlotte’s Sound at the rate it was then going; but by the Greenwich Rate reckoning all the way from Plymouth only 201°. 18½’ E. The northern extream of St. Christina is on Latit. 9°. 81½’, and its southern Extream in 10°. 02’ So. The Longit. of its most western part is 220°. 50½’ E., and of its most Eastern 221°. 00¾’ E. The most southerly Part of La Dominica is in Lat. 9°. 47¼’ and its most northerly one in 9°. 34’ S. Its most Extream is in Longit. 220°. 44½’ and its Eastern one in 221°. 12¼’. The middle of St. Pedro is in Latit. 9°. 58’ S. and Long. 221°. 9’E. and the Latit. Of themiddle of the New Island is 9°. 26’ S. and its Longit. 221°. 08’ E. The Account which is given in Mendana's Voyage of the Harbour is not more minute than Accurate, unless that most persons perhaps would expect to have found its Enterance narrower in proportion to its breadth than it realy is; but we know not how Horse-shoes were made at that time in South America. The Gaps which he speaks of in the trees are, I presume Ridges of the Hills on which no Trees grow here; but these things are too subject to Mutabillity for much stress to be laid on them at almost 200 Years distance. Even his Town is fled away the Lord knows whither; but there yet remain many stones which appear to have been its foundation, & his Brooke & 'spring of water pouring out of the Rock at the hight of a fathom as thick as a mans Arm', and they are as pure water as I ever tasted. The Bay is about a Mile and half Deep, and about the same breadth where broadest and it may be about a Mile wide at its Enterance. On the whole, the Account (which was written by Quiros) does, in my humble judgement great honour to his Accuracy and integrity; and if he was a small matter out in the situation it is not to be wondered at considering the Early times in which this Voyage was made.
The Natives of these Islands taken Collectively, are undoubtedly the finest Race of People that I or perhaps any Person Else has ever seen. They are not like the Otahiteans One a great fat Overgrown, unweildy fellow and the next perhaps you meet a poor meagre half starved Wretch, over run with Scabs and blotches, but are, almost without

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exception all fine tall stout-limbed, and well made People, neither lean enough for scare-Crows, nor yet so fat as in the least to impede their Activity. Their Features are also very regular, and not that sameness in them which is so frequently Observed to obtain throughout a whole Race or Nation of Indians. In the Articles of Teeth and Eyes indeed the People of Otahitee, as well as the Natives of North America have greatly the Advantage; for many of these have very bad Teeth, and their Eyes are neither so full or lively as those of the others besides many are grey; but in general they are of a lightish brown. Their Hair, which in colour is as various as in England, except that I saw none which had red, they were short except a bunch on each side of the Crown which they tye on a knot. Some of them also part their Beards, which are very long & tye them in two Bunches under their Chins, others Plat them, some were them loose and others quite short.- In this respect it seems to be Chacun a son Gout, as his Majesty of Prussia is reported to have said on a very different Occasion.
They are punctured from head to foot in various figures and the Men in general go entirely naked, except a slip of Cloth which they pass round their Waist and then bringing the two Ends forwards betwixt their legs turn them up and stick them in the part which goes round them: this indeed is the dress of the Common People at Otahitee and the Society Isles; and simple as it is it answers every purpose which modesty can require as completely as our own. As to the Women both here and at the society Isles they go cloathed from the Neck downwards in a manner which is both simple and elegant. Some of the Men wore a small piece of Cloth round their Heads; others again had nothing but their slings; but many wore a sort of broad fillet platted in a very neat Manner of the fibrous parts of the Husk of Cocoa Nuts: in the front is placed a large Mother of Pearl Shell worked round; and before that another less of Tortoise Shell; also before that one still less of Mother of Pearl. These are so large as wholy to cover the forehead of him that Wears it and all round the Fillet are fixed long feathers of Cocks and Tropic Birds which when the Fillet is tied on stand upright so that the whole together forms not only a complete piece of Armour for their foreheads against the stones which may be thrown by an Enemy but also an excellent shelter from the sun and a very sightly Ornament at the same time.
Besides the Weapon mentioned at the beginning of these remarks they have slings with which they throw stones to an Amazing Distance and with great Velocity but it did not appear to me that they did it with much Aim. Their Canoes are composed of pieces joined to gether with a bandage made chiefly of the Bark of a soft wood which grows here in great plenty, and is very tough: the workmanship is very rude, & they are from 15 to 20 feet long, and about 14 or 15 Inches broad, some may be an Inch or two more and they end in two solid pieces fore and aft. That at the stern rises up in an irregular direction and ends in a point. The Head projects straight out in an horizontal direction and at the end is carved into some faint resemblance of an human face; but this is not spoken with intent to depreciate their workmanship in this Art, which in some other Instances which I have seen exceeds that of most other Islands in these seas. They use a paddle as is done by all other Indians which I have seen except the Exkimaux. I saw none of their houses except 3 or four small Huts in which nobody now lived and were miserable beyond description; but those whose Leasure permitted them to make more frequent, & longer Excursions into the Country give a Much better Account of them, as indeed those which we see on the ridge of Mountains seem to deserve.
These Islands are all very high land, vasdy irregular and Cliffy, the higher parts being mosdy covered with Clouds, at least it was so whilst we were there; but the Land, especially in the Vallies, seems to be exceeding rich and fertile mostly covered with wood; but it is almost all of that soft kind mentioned above; very pithy and good for nothing except to burn and scarcely that: On the sides of the Hills indeed grow a pretty many Etoe Trees as they are called almost all over the south seas which is exceeding hard and heavy but brittle: it is of this wood that they make all their weapons, and from thence it has its Name. It is the Cypress which I formerly mentioned to be planted round their Maris or burying Places at Otahitee.
We got here in all near 100 small Pigs, perhaps half that Number of Chickens; and a prodigeous quantity of Bread fruit and Plantains which were without exception the largest and finest that I have ever seen and allowed to be so likewise by those who had seen much more of these Fruits than I have done and in point of goodness and flavour exceeded by none.
We saw no Animals here beside Pigs, nor any tame Fowls except Chickens; nor did the Woods seem to afford much Game; but they abounded with small Birds of very beautiful Notes and Plumage but the fear of Alarming the Natives hindered Us from shooting so many of them as might otherwise have been done.

[Page 297]
Tuesday, April ye. 12th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind with showers

Remarks
About ½ past two oClock we discovered the Island of Magdalina thro’ an opening in the Haze; and at 4 saw it again it bore then S.E. b. E. & the Bay where we anchored E.N.E. dist. (by Estimation) 5 Leagues. I had no opportunity of doing more towards determining the situation of this Island but have endeavoured to do it by taking the above bearing, and Mendanas diff. of Latitude, distance and bearing, separately, and find from the mean of the three results that the Port he mentions to be in it, his in Latitude 11°. 25½’ S. and Longit. 221°. 11’ East.
Variation by Azimuth 4°. 22¼’ E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 5°. 28½’ E.

Weather
Do. Do.

Wednesday, April ye. 13th 1774

Weather
Moderate wind & flying Clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
Shortened sail

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Brought too for the Night.

Weather
Brisk Wind, do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Wore Ship, and made sail.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 5°. 01½’ E.

Weather
Do. Do.

[Page 298]
Thursday, April ye. 14th 1774

Weather
Brisk wind & Flying Clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azim. 6°. 3½’ E.
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Brought too for the Night.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Wore Ship and made sail.
Set the studding sails.

Weather
Do. Hazy

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 5°. 51 1/3’ E.

Weather
Do. Do.

Friday, April ye. 15th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & flying Clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O & D. 217°. 02½’ E.
Shortened sail.
Brought too main Topsail to the Mast

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Bore away and set the studding sails.
Variation by Azimuth 6°. 9’ E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

[Page 299]
Saturday, April ye. 16th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Flying Clouds
Do. & thick hazy weather.

Remarks
Brought too main-top sail to the Mast.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Made sail
Variation by Azimuth 5°. 55’ E.

Weather
Do. flying Clouds

Remarks
About 11 oClock A.M. we discovered a low Island bearing W. ½ N.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Extream Points of the Island N. 62’ W. & S. 66’ W.

Sunday, April ye. 17th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind and flying Clouds
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Variation by Azim. 5°. 5’ E.

Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
About ½ past 12 oClock the Southern Point sun at Noon shut in by a point which we were then nearly a breast off at S. 49 W. and soon after a Point opened of the northernmost of the two set at Noon at West & S. At 5 minutes past 12 a more western point opened of the last mentioned one at S. 6°W. and another off this at S. 45 W. At 2.48 the most westerly point of the Island opened of this last when bearing S. 28°W. and soon after we discovered a slipage into the Island on which the Boats were hoisted out to examine it & see whether or no the Ship will go in. Whilst this was doing I took two sets of the Sun & Moon’s dist. which gave the Longit of the Ship 215°. 14¼‘ and 215°. 08’ E. This opening is abt. 5¼ miles from the W. end of the Isle. When the Boats returned they reported that there was no passage for the Ship; but that it was probable we might Purchase some fruits of the Natives who came down to them, appeared to be friendly and were very fond of nails on which several Officers & Gentlemen went in the Boats again but as I was yet employed observing I could not make one. They landed and bought several Cocoa-Nuts, and Dogs; but but straying a little way from the Boats they discovered several others hid amongst the trees, on which they thought proper to embark & return on board. The Natives told them the Isle was called Taoukaa. The Natives assembled in great Numbers, and after the boats were got on board some shot were fired over them which seemed to frighten them much, so they ran every way & some tumbled down, seemingly with terror.
From this opening we saw another opening Island when extreams bore from S. 43 W. to S. 69 W.
At 6.37 A.M. the East North point of the found Island bore S. 83 W. from whence to the East Point the direction of the land is N. 38 W. abt. 4 or 5 miles and at 6°.40’ a point to the southard opened off the East point at 527°W. [indecipherable] this side we ran S.S.W. till 9 oClock when another point which was the most southerly one opened of the last at S. 80 W. and at ½ past this point bore N. 58 W. The Variation observed this morning at 7 oClock was 5°. 05’ E.

[Page 300]
Monday, April ye. 18th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & flying Clouds
Do. do.

I make no doubt of these being the [indecipherable] Isles of Roggeveen as not only the Latit. but the Longit. also from Easter Island, as first drawn in the Dutch [indecipherable] of that Voyage corresponds extremely them as the Isles of Disappointment [indecipherable] of Capt. [indecipherable].

Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
The Island we have just passed are of that part which are generally called “low Isles with an Pond in the Middle of them”. They are speaking properly a reef of Coral Rock inclosing a large space of Sea, or at least Salt water in some parts of which for ought that appears to the contrary there may be no soundings: the reef is in no part I believe a mile broad and in some scarce above the surface of the water & very narrow in others it is higher and in these parts generally covered with Cocoa Nuts and other trees, which have a most beautiful appearance.
By a mean of ten lunar Observations some taken at others before and some after passing them, the opening into the Lagoon of the former of them into which the
Boats were sent is in Longit. 211°. 5½’ E. The Watch gave 212°. 51’ E. The Latitude is 14°. 30½‘ S.
Longit. at 3 o’Clock by dist. O & D. 214°. 18’ E.
** By reckoning back from Otahitee by the Watch at [indecipherable] Rate it was going there the Longit. of the above opening will be 214°. 56¼’ E.
At 8 o’Clock shortened sail, and hauled in around under the Topsails.
At 6 o’Clock A.M. bore away.
Saw another low Island to the Westward.
Variation by Azimuth 7°. 33’ E. very doubtfull.
Longit. by K Lat. 18°57’ [indecipherable] 211°. 10½’ E.
At 7.24 the N. Extream of the Island bore N. 71°W.
At 10 o’Clock the East point of the Island bore N. 1½ W. and the most southerly Part W. ½ N. Moreover another Island was now seen from the Mast Head being S.E.
At Noon the Extreams of the first Island bore N. 44’ E. and N. 61°W. and the east end of a third Isle S.W. b S. distance about 4 Leagues.

Tuesday, April ye. 19th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & flying Clouds

Remarks
At 2h. 40 the East end of the third Island bore S. b W. & the West one of the former and east end of this be North and South. At 6 h. 18’ the said East End bore S.E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 5 h. 25’ the westernmost point of the Isle in sight bore 5 deg. and 40 minutes afterwards it bore S. 77°W. Longit. by dist. O & D. at 3 h. 57½‘ was 213°. 14½‘ E.
Do. by [indecipherable] at 4h. 9¼‘ 211,13¾ .

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
The Island we’re now amongst were strenuously disputed islands by most of the Officers to be those which form the Islands of Roggeveen; I cannot imagine how such a thought could Enter the head of man since they do not conform in any one particular except that of there being several Isles but three; however some pretend a fourth was seen by some boy or other; ought it not then to have been mentioned in the Log? But Grant there were Roggeveen [indecipherable] says they were 6, and that they were in Latit. 15°. 17’ S. about the most Northerly of these that we pass is in 15°°.30’S. If indeed another was seen to the Northward, as some say, it is possible Roggeveen might see it; but if he did I should rather think it that which he supposed to be Schouten’s Fly Island. On the whole, I rather think these Islands have not been seen before: although I would be cautious saying this, as I firmly believe Islands have been greatly multiplied, and much confusion has arisen in the Geography of these few from a [indecipherable] of being thought the first discoveries of any land that has been seen.
At ¼ past 6 A.M. the West end of the Island here S. 15 W. & the most southerly part of the Island E. ½ N.

[Page 301]
Wednesday, April ye. 20th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind with Rain

Remarks
A very high irregular [indecipherable].

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy.
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail.
Variation by Azimuth 6°. 51½’ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Saw the High land of Otahitee.

Weather
Do. do.

Thursday, April ye. 21st 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Hauled on a wind to the Northward.

Weather
Do. do.
Squally with heavy Showers
Do. do.

Remarks
Stood off and on all Night under the Topsails and at 3 A.M. bore away for Matavai Bay & made sail.

Weather
Cloudy with Showers

Remarks
Hoisted out the boats and sent the Cutter ahead, to be on the Reef at the Entrance of the Bay, and a little after 9 o’Clock came to an Anchor in 7½ fathoms, and moored with a small Anchor to leeward, but it was not done before the Ship was crowded with our old friends, and if there be any struth in Physiognomy they were extremely glad to see us, from what Motive I will not pretend to say.

Weather
Moderate Wind & flyg. Clouds.

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1774 April 22nd
Having represented to Capt Cook that it would be of considerable use to get the rate of the Watches going at this Place, and the longitude shewn by it; as it would tend greatly to corroborate the Longitudes of Many Places which we have lately passed more especially as this is now so well determined; I got every thing ready for going on Shore by Noon, & soon after a Guard being Appointed, I got on Shore the Clock Astronomical Quadt and Reflecting Tellescope: the two former I proposed to set up in the Enterance of the Ship's Tent as Capt Cook told me he could not Allow above two or three Days for this bussiness.
I got the Tent up and my Clock jogging before it was dark in doing of which I was the more Earnest as I found there would be an Occultation, or at least a near Appulse of both C & r Leonis to the [moon] that Night; but when I came to open my Tellescope I found it utterly spoiled, at least so far that not the least use could be made of it untill the Metalls are re-polished, and I could not then get on board for another; nor indeed was there then Time to put it together if I could. Hence we may see one great advantage which refracting Telescopes have over reflecting ones in long Voyages, more especially where no provision is made of a proper place to stow them in; but where a Person is glad to put them away in any hole or Corner that he himself can find. In the Morning however I got on shore Mr Dollonds Refracter, put up a Barometer, Thermometers &c as usual, and Observed Altitudes for the Time. The weather very variable; but in general the Wind was moderate with flying Clouds and sometimes showers.

23rd to ye 28th.
I continued my Observations in the Ship's Tent; but finding then that Capt Cook's stay at this place was likely to be considerably longer than was at first expected; and that it was not only inconvenient but that my Instruments without great Care were liable to be disturbed I sent for my own Tent on Shore; and having first removed the Great one errected it over the Clock & Quadrant as they Stood. During these 6 Days the Winds & Weather were very variable sometimes moderate pretty fine at others Strong squals of wind atended with thick Clouds and heavy showers of Rain, Thunder and Lightening, especially when the wind came Westerly.

April 28 to May ye 10th.
I continued my Astronomical Observations with all the Attention possible, especially those which tended to settle the Longitude of the Place, and am willing to flatter my self that I have contributed something towards it both this time and last, although the weather was very unfavourable for the first three or four Days when most might have been done. On the tenth I took down every thing by Capt Cook's direction and Carried them on board the Ship.
The Attention which I found necessary to my Astronomical Observations did not allow me time to keep a regular Journal while on shore; but as several circumstances occurred to me which I am willing to think worthy notice I shall put them down here, and flatter my self they will not be thought the worse of for wanting that regularity and order, usually kept up in a Work of this kind.
The smallness of the Tydes at this place being a matter, not only of curiosity, but of great moment also as they relate to physical Enquiries, and not, seemingly to be accounted for by the laws of Gravity, I have been lead to confirm, whilst here, whether the Cause may not be merely local: and after the most minute Survey of the place and Consideration of the Circumstances, am fully convinced in my own mind that it is so. For in the Annexed Plan of Point Venus, and the Parts Adjacent It must be observed that B is the Pitch of the Point where Mr Bayley and myself observed the Tyeds A E is a fresh-water River & A the Place where Mr. Green observed them D D is a Reef of Coral Rocks which encompases the Point, and in general the whole Island, except for some inconsiderable breaks, as may be seen by Capt Cooks Map of it, and over which the sea breaks to a very great height in all places, and of course a prodigeous quantity of water must flow over it into the space between this Reef and the Land which of these [indecipherable] went for it between the two Ends of the Reef & land must keep the surface of the water there vastly above the surface of the sea; and as it is these openings being but small in comparison to the Extent of the Reef, and the Quantity of water which flows over it the water must yet be considerably higher than in the open Sea, and by all that quantity, or nearly so, must the rise of the Water to be lessened. As a proof this I wished to have an opportunity of trying it at Rock C, for there is no such thing as doing it along any of these parts of the shore which are not sheltered by the Reef, because of the surf, and the flatness of them, which makes a break at a great distance off, but I could not do this without a Boat and that was not to be had. I was not even fortunate enough to get off to it twice on any one day near the times of high & low-water, the nearest to them were on Sunday April ye 24th at about ¼ before 8 in the Morning & ½ past 12 at Noon, and although I believe it was barely high-water at the former time, and far short of Low-water at the latter yet was the difference full 1 ½ feet which is 3 Inches more than ever was observed on Shore even at the full and Change of the Moon. The first Hint of this sort occurred to one when we were at Uliateah last time where we were obliged to warp in on account of the prodigious current which sets out at the opening almost continually and cannot by any other means. This current I found ran very strong the whole Day except for about an Hour before the time of high water, when I could not perceive any It must be [indecipherable] the Cause

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there is much more powerfull than here for the there is but one passage out there and that narrow; the Reef is more extensive, and the sea (from what cause I cannot tell) much higher; and accordingly I found the Tides there much less than here. I had but twice an opportunity indeed, of observing both high & low water; but neither time did the water rise quite 7 Inches. As to the Annexed Plan, I must observe that the point of the reef & Rock C are laid down with respect to Point Venus with the utmost Accuracy. I could possibly do it as is also the extent of the Reef: but that the other parts, as being of little consequence to my present purpose are not to be considered as anything more than a rude sketch of the coast. But notwithstanding what is here said it seems to me highly probable both from what I have seen here, and in every other Port of these seas, that the Force of the Sun and Moon, to raise the Tides is considerably less than has been heretofore supposed.

May 10th to the 13th. What I have to offer concerning the Place and Inhabitants consists chiefly of little Circumstances, which in themselves, are not of the least moment; but, in my humble opinion, contribute more towards giving a tolerable Idea of the Genius and disposition of the People than a thousand Volumes of private Opinions written concerning diem, unsupported by such like Facts, especially as we have every day repeated proofs that not one amongst us knows so much of their Language as to understand them always, even in the Common Transactions of buying and selling; much more in things of so intricate a nature, that they can scarcely be known with tolerable certainty of our next-Door Neighbours.

The first I shall mention happened one evening while I had gone on Board to supper. We were alarmed with the report of a Musquet at the Tent; a Boat was sent & I got on shore immediately where I found it had been discharged by one of the Centinals at a Native, who had found Means to steal a Water Butt almost from under his Nose, and was swim-ing it off down the River which runs at the back of the Tent. The man quitted his prize and ran on shore immediately, where he was found hid in a bush, and carried on board the Ship. In the Morning Otoo, the Aree or Chief Man of all the greater Peninsula of Otahitee, and who indeed claims Dominion over the lesser also, as we do over France, happened to go on board the Ship with several of his Nobles (as we called them) and amongst the rest one who is a near Relation & called Toowha. Capt Cook shewed the Man, and represented the Case to Otoo, at the same time insisted on the Man's being punished to deter others from the like practices in future: Otoo petitioned much for him but finding it to little purpose gave his consent, and the Man was brought on shore tied up before at least a thousand of them and had two dozen lashes given him, which almost flayed his back, after which he was set at liberty. The Natives were all going away seemingly very Much displeased; Otoo hung his head and seemed much frightened; but Toowha, stepping forward onto a little Eminence, called them back, and spoke for a full half hour, or more: If his language was as elegant as his Action was gracefull he must be a very great Orator. The substance of it, as near as we could gather, was to the following Effect 'How can you act in so shamefull a Manner as to steal from your friends, who bring you every thing that is good & usefull? do not they bring you Axes, Knives, Nails, Red Feathers, Beads, &c, and give them to you for Hogs, Breadfruit Cocoa-Nuts, &c. things that you can spare; and could they not, if they were not your friends, easily kill you, and take them for nothing? but they do not so.—They are your friends! Why then do you rob them? If you will steal, Steal from the Tiarabo-Men, and the Men of Eimeo, who are your Enemies, & fight with you; but steal not from them.- Go, and bring Cocoa Nuts and breadfruit to them as usual.'

Otoo and his friends having been frequently very solicitous to see our Exercise, and the Great Guns fired Capt Cook at last Consented; and the Party of Marines were drawn out and exercised before him and his Chiefs, and as the time had been Appointed two or three days before I believe almost half the Island had been informed of it for the Point was full of People from one End to the Other: They went very well through all their Manouvres, and fired many Vollies with Ball: It is impossible (and therefore it would be Nonsense to Attempt it) to describe the Amazement they were under the whole time; but especially at the distance which the Balls fell at in the Water, and the Expedition with which they repeated their firing, and for which I thought the Marines had great Credit as it must convince them how inadequate their weapons are to ours: On the whole I verily believe that Otoo and his Gentry went away scarcely more pleased than frightened: he notwithstanding forgot not to insist on the Great Guns; and Sunday Evening was appointed for that purpose; but an Accident happened on Saturday night which put it by to a future Day.

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The accident hinted at was this. One of the Centinals happening to nod a litde in the Middle Watch, as some much greater Men are said to have done before him, one of the Natives, who no doubt was, as I believe some of them always were, on the look-out for what they could steal made free enough to take his Musquet; and was fortunate enough to get clear of with it without any others seeing him. By sun-rise there was scarce one Person of any Account left on the part of the Island where we were, and their Houses were all striped quite naked. A while afterwards four or 5 large Canoes appeared Coming round the Point on which Capt Cook maned the Boats, and went to Intercept them in hopes that Otoo or some principal Person might be there whom he might detain Prisoner untill the Piece and some other things of Value which had been stolen were brought back; but found none who he Judged of consequence enough to Answer his purpose. There were however none who would not the Day before have been very much offended at our barely supposing they were not very considerable Arees, yet now absolutely denied their being so; nay assured the Capt they were such inconsiderable persons that should they even presume to speak to Otoo he would beat them very severely, and probably they spoke no more than truth for their Arees are not very ceremonious on these Occasions but were it otherwise there are but few I believe who on a similar Occasion might not have done the Like.

Otoo, however, before he fled had dispatched one of his principal People in search of the Musquet; and he was lucky enough to hear of it; and brought it back to the Tent in the Afternoon for which Capt Cook made him a very hansome Present, and went with him next day to Otoo where all was made up again, I believe, to our Mutual satisfaction. It is realy strange that People who are so well acquainted with the effects of fire Arms as these are should be guilty of such desperate Actions; nay a more extraordinary one than either of these above recited happened for one of them in the Night got into the Tent amongst us notwithstanding there were 3 Centinals no doubt with intent to carry off the first thing he could lay his hands on and would certainly have succeeded had he not unfortunately tumbled over one of our People who had that night spread his bed on the ground that he might enjoy to more advantage the fruits of a bargain he had made the Evening before: Nay it is certain that several instances of this sort happened for we lost many very Bulky things out of the Tent which could not have been carried away in the Day time unperceived; and this was one very great reason why I moved my Instruments out of the Ship's tent.
But not withstanding ail these fracas, Otoo would not give up the Great Guns, and another day was appointed to which they were very punctual, and two or three rounds were fired some with round and others with Grape which terrified them if possible more than the small Arms; but they were much better pleased in the Evening, when several pieces of fire-works, such as sky Rockets Serpents Air Balloons &c &c. were played off, which diverted without Alarming them.

Otoo is a Young Man, very tall but slender, and stoops much: He has the appearance of a very stupid Man but His Actions and Government seem to bespeak him a wise active & great Prince; or if not, he must have very able Counsellors: He seems very fond of Millitary Matters: War Canoes are building in every part of his Kingdom; & they had whilst we were here Reviews of one sort or other almost every day, especially Naval ones of which Matters we understand that Toowha has the Management. I had an opportunity of seeing one of these reviews on Friday May the 13th in company with Capt. Cook and some other Gentlemen who went there by express Invitation of Otoo: There were not now above 60 fighting Canoes, and none of them quite so large as that I saw and described at Huahine last year; but as told in a former Review that our Gentlemen were invited to see they exhibited near 200; These belonged to a northern Province; there were however before the fighting ones near twice the Number of very large ones which serve as Tenders to the Others to carry Provisions, stores etc; and many others dressed up with Green bows, flowers & which they told us were to bring the slain off in in order to their being interred in their respective Maris, or burying places from whence we may infer that like the Ancient Greeks & they take great care of the ones of such as are slain in Battle. The fighting Men were all ranged on the Stages, and under Arms, dressed out in a most Magnificent Manner; it is almost incredible what quantity of Cloaths they wear on these Occasions, dyed of all manner of Colours which they are possessed of – probably they wear it by way of defensive Armour. The reason of all these preparations as we understood is a war they are engaged in with the Inhabitants of the lesser Peninsula of Otahite, and the Island of [indecipherable]. We were informed when here before, as I have to hear Notice, that there had been an Engagement between the Inhabitants of the two Peninsulas wherein Tootaha the Uncle of Otoo , and regent during his Minority was slain together with several of the Principall Inhabitants, in Consequence whereof the Victors had plundered all this part of the Islands grew pretty evident, as we scarce saw 10 hogs all the Time we

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were here: but since then, we are told there has been another wherein Otoo was Victor, and the Plunderers plundered in their turn. However, be this as it may it was really wonderful to see the difference in the Appearance of this part of the Island now and then, it being impossible now almost to enter a house where there are not three or four hogs and many of them the largest and fattest I have any where seen in these seas; and in short the whole Peninsula, as far as I saw of it, was in every way in such a flourishing state as could scarce be credited by one who saw it then. –

After the Marine Review was ended we went on shore where we saw a number of Men drawn up with spears, and soon after discovered others which were (pretendedly) hid amongst the Grass & shrubs under the Cover of which (as was to be supposed) they advanced to attack the others: They began by throwing their spears at a distance, whilst their Opponents stood with the points of theirs rested on the ground before them; that is in a right line between themselves & the Assailants, with the other ends up as high, and right before their Eyes so that when they saw their Enemy's spear come at them, by a swing of their Arms this way or that as was most convenient they put it past them with a dexterity that was realy admirable. As they advanced the Attack was made by pushing and striking; the former they parryed somewhat in the same manner as is done with a foil in fencing, and avoided the blow by turning half round on one heel. During this Mock-Engagement, Otoo, very good-naturedly, frequendy desired us not to be afraid, for that the People would not hurt us; a piece of politeness which I much fear none of us ever thought of paying him, when he attended our exhibitions of this kind; although we are, I suppose, willing enough to believe much more necessary.

I must not forget to remark the Attention which was paid here to the Youth who went with us from Uliateah by every one and by Otoo in particular who spared nothing which he thought would entice him to stay behind. He got him married to one of the finest young Creatures on the Island, the daughter of a principal Aree, and a great favourite of Otoos; offered him lands, honours in short, every thing that a king could offer; & Oediddee would certainly have been wise enough to accept of them, if Capt Cook had not insisted on his returning to Uliateah: in which he was the More particular, as none yet who had gone from any of these Islands had returned to their native Place. I believe he had the fate of a traveller amongst many; who seemed not to credit much his storys of seeing the New-Zeelands eating one another, of the White Land (as he called the Ice Islands) the perpetual Day, and some other things of that Nature; but this is no wonder some of them will no doubt want believers even in England. I have always thought the situation of a Traveller singularly hard: If he tells nothing which is uncommon, he must be a stupid fellow to have gone so far, and brought home so little; and if he does, why- it is hum,- aye—a toss up of the Chin; and, - 'He's a Traveller'!

I have had abundant reason this time to be convinced of the injustice which is done the Women of this place by those who represent them as ready to prostitute them selves to any who come up to their price, as I have seen very many Instances where things have been rejected with disdain which in their Estimation must be almost invaluable, and I was once witness to a piece of delicacy which even I did not expect to have met with here: it was a Relation, or at least one who claimed to be such to Oedidde who was with much difficulty hindered from thrashing another Woman for complaining before me and some others of the backwardness of her Bedfellow the night before; but though we prevented the Beating, we could not hinder her from belabouring her with her Tongue; and amongst other things she told her that such as she would make us spit at them, and say when we got home that the Otahitee Women stunk; for that we should think all like those who did as she did. Another Circumstance which confirms me in this opinion is that not one Woman we know of who has had any connections with the English are yet Married: the greater part are now in appearance little better than Vagabonds; and the few who have fared better, are only in keeping by a sort of Men who either by their Profession or otherwise, are forbid the Use of Women; but who like many others in the same situation, hold no short Dalliance with them in private. One of the Most agreeable Women that I have seen here is in this situation, and scrupled not to acknowledge that she had murdered a Child or two because the Father dared not be known to have had any Commerce of that kind. And this is a thing which we have some reasons to believe is not very uncommon amongst them. . . .

On Computing my Observations made at this place I find that Mr. Kendalls watch was gaining 11” [indecipherable] 33 each Day on Mean Time, and was too slow for mean time at this Place by 13h.1' 29.48" on Monday May the 9th at Noon; and lastly that it gave the Longitude of the Place 208°.16.26 ½ E. It may not be amiss to enquire into the Error this watch has committed since we were here before.

On August the 31st 1773 it was to slow for Mean Time here by 13h. 49' 47.49" and was gaining 8.863" each Day on Mean Time. From Aug.st 31st to May 9th are 251 Days, by which multiplying 8.803" we have

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0 H.36'.57.08" for the Watch's gain in that time which being subtracted from 13H. 40' 47.49" leaves 13H. 12' 50.41" for which the Watch ought to have been too slow, had it gone all the time at the rate it was going when here last year; and the difference between this & 13H.1' 29.48", what it actually was too slow on May the 9th is 0 H. 11' 20.93" = 2°50' 14" in Longitude.

I made the Longitude of Point Venus by the Mean of a great Number of Distances of the D from the sun and Stars 210°22' 43" E; and its Latitude by the Meridian Attitudes of the Sun & fixed Stars 17°39' 22½" which is 8¾" more than I made it last year and 7 ½ more than Mr. Green made it in 1769. By the mean of 11 Meridian Altitudes of the Sun's L.L. taken from the Horizon of the sea I made the Latit 17°29' 35" I always found that Altitude taken with Hadley's Quadr. From the Horizon of the Sea gave a greater Latitude than observations made with the Astronomical Quadr. And this is the nearest Agreement I ever met with. The dip of the Needles south end was 29°58¾', and the Variation of the compass E. In this at least I used two Needles, and discharged the Magnetism several times and retouched them again in order to see if it would cause any difference but could find none. –

May ye 14th. About 3 PM Weighed and got under soon after which one of the seamen slid down the ship's side with intention to leave her and swim on Shore and would certainly have Escaped had not the Lieut, of Marines been Accidentally looking out of the Gun-Room Ports & seen him drop astern; on which a boat was hoisted out, and he was taken up and Confined. At 5 o clock Point Venus bore E. b S. ¼ S dist between two & 3 Leagues. We sailed W.N.W. 21 Miles; then N.W. b.W. ½ W. 31 ½ miles, and again W.N.W. 26 Miles to Noon at which time the North Point of Huaheine bore W. by N. dist 3 or 4 Leagues. Moderate wind and flying Clouds.

May the 15th. At 2 PM the North Point of Huaheine bore SW.b.W ½ W dist. some 5 Miles or so. And at ½ past 3 came too at the mouth of the Northern Enterance into Owharre Harbour, and carried out Warps; by the Means of which we came to an Anchor about 7 with the small Bower; and in the Morning the Stream Anchor was Carried out to steady the Ship. We lie here about a Mile and half to the Northward of where we did last Year: It had not long been Daylight before the Old Chief of whom I spoke when here last came on board with his Medall and Copper 'Graving; and soon After great Numbers of the People came off with Hogs Fowls and Fruit. Moderate Breezes Easterly & flying Clouds.
May the 16th. Mostly Cloudy with Showers. In the Morning Mr Forsters going on Shore their Servant was attacked, and an Attempt made to strip him by some of the Natives.
17th. Mostly Cloudy with showers. I found that the Tide flowed very near two feet at the Harbour's Mouth to Day, and I have some reasons to believe I did not see it untill some time after it had been low Water. In the Evening I went, amongst others to see one of their Dramatic Entertainments and soon recognized my old Friend the Uliatean Garrick amongst the Performers; who entertained us with two or three little Pieces which appeared to be Extempore: They were certainly Pro-Tempore, and his Part of them was most Excellently well performed; It was that of a Girl, and the Piece represented her as runing away in the Ship from Otahitee with the English, and concluded with the Reception which she was supposed to Meet with from her friends at her return, which was not represented to be of a very indulgent Nature. Now this was Actually a piece of true History, and the Girl was present at the Representation of her own Adventures, which if they knew, as I make no doubt they did, was a very Cruel; although they perhaps might think a very wholsome, and even Necessary piece of Satire. It was with the utmost difficulty she kept her seat, and she stood in need of all the Comfort & support her new friends could give her to keep from Tears. It is not foreign to the Purpose to add that two Ladies, Natives of this place, who had been previously engaged to sleep on board the Ship, but went on shore to see the Heavah (as they call it) broke their Engagements, and could not by any Means be prevailed on to return on board the Ship.
May 18th. Light breezes Easterly with showers. Three of the Petty Officers who were out on a shooting Party were Robbed of a Bag wherein were some Hatchets Nails &c. One of their Guns (they had but two) missing fire, the Natives coaxed the other to fire at a Mark; think them, I suppose they might play their intended Prank with safety; but it missing fire Also, 'tis possible they might think themselves equally safe, for they seized the Bag immediately, and set out with such speed that the others thought it useless to follow them; but stood snaping their Guns to no Purpose.- The Audacity of these People is so great that I cannot go on shore even Close to the Ship to observe the Meridian Altitude without a Guard.
19th. First part flying Clouds; the latter frequent Showers: Wind Moderate, easterly.

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20th. Moderate Wind easterly, and fine Weather. This After noon we heard from some of the Natives that two of the Lieutt and one of the Master's Mates who were out on a Shooting party had been Attacked, and their Arms and Cloaths taken from them; on which the Capt Went on shore to Enquire into the Affair; and soon after they all three Came on board having got their things again through the interposition of some of the Chiefs of the Island: We were all eager to learn the story; which I could not help observing could scarcely be said to run on all four, as the Critical Gentry express it. - In the Morning, 'The Capt with several of his Officers and Seamen, and the Officer of Marines and his Party, armed, went into the Country, in search of the People that were Guilty of this Robbery'; to which Party were super-added some 'Gentlemen Volenteers', as they were pleased to denominate themselves; one of whom having lost the Bayonet belonging to his own Piece, had one of the ship's Bayonets tyed on the Muzzle of it.
21st. About 4 PM the Armed Party returned; having, according to the strict, literal meaning of some Poet or other; who, I have utterly forgot,
March'd up the Hill, and then --- March'd down again.

The Weather very fine, with loose, flying Clouds, and Moderate Wind, easterly.

22nd The former Part flying Clouds; the latter showers; the Wind moderate Easterly. In the Morning the Ship was unmoored and got underway, and at Noon Owharre Harbour bore N.E. ¼ E dist 5 or 6 Leas. and I observed the Latitude 16 deg. 51'S. – By a mean of 8 Observations by the Watch the Longitude of Owharre Harbour is 208 deg..53'..01" E which is but 1 ½ " in time difference from what the Watch gave it last year from whence I think we may pretty fairly conclude that the difference of Longit between this Place and Point Venus with the Utmost Accuracy; and on that presumption I shall apply the Distances Observed here to the farther determining the Longit of Point Venus as the sun was now on the contrary side of the Moon to what it was when the Observations were made at Otahite. And accordingly putting the Eastern distances observed here along with those of the same denomination taken there, and in like manner, the western ones forming them up and taking the Mean of the two, the Longit. of Point Venus comes out 210°.23’.16 ¼ E and it is remarkable that this differs but 1/3 of a second in time from the Mean of all Mr. Green's Lunar Observations which extended through two Callender Months. The Latitude by a Means of four Observations of the Sun's Meridian alt. taken with Hadleys Sextant from a Quicksilver Horizen was 16 deg..4'2..48"S. The Variation of the compass by a means of four Observations taken on board the Ship was 5 deg.18' ¾ E. and by the Mean of two taken on Shore 5 deg.. 22 7/12 E. I had no opportunity of determining anything more concerning the Tides than what is mentioned above on account of the Natives being so very troublesome: The Reef is considerably under water here; even at Low Water.
23rd. Flying Clouds; the Wind Moderate and Variable towards the East: Stood on & off all night under the Lee of the Island, and in the Morning worked to Windward in order to Gain the Harbour's Mouth.
24th. The former part Moderate Wind E.S.E. with flying Clouds; the latter light Airs with Rain. About 2 PM came too off the Harbour's Mouth with the small Bower and carried out Warps ahead to warp the ship into the Harbour. At 7 Came too again with the Small Bower for the Night, and in the Morning it was weighed and the ship Warped into the Cove which is about ¾ of a Mile to the Eastward of where we lay last Year. Here she was moored with the stream Anchor to leeward; and we had soon the pleasure of seeing all our old friends at this place in good Health, and very happy to see us once more.
25th. Brisk winds south-Easterly and Cloudy with Rain. It was High-water to Day at 11 AM perhaps, a little later for there is no determining those things to great nicety here on account of the small & slow rise of the water.
26th. The former Part Moderate Wind at E.S.E. & Cloudy with rain; the latter, brisk wind Easterly, and flying Clouds. It was high-water to day about Noon and the rise of the Water was 8¼ Inches: this last point may be determined with the utmost Accuracy here, as the water has not the least Motion; I find it by taking the Altitude of the Water above a flat stone, which is the foundation of one of their Maris or burying Places, with a two foot Rule & it may be very well determined to the 1/8 of an Inch, so that an Error of a ¼ Inch can scarcely happen at both high & low-water even if the Errors should both tend the same way.
27th. Brisk winds easterly, and cloudy weather. This Afternoon, amongst several others, I walked a considerable way up the Country, and came at last to one of the most beautiful Vallies I have ever seen: a little way up the Ascent on one side stood a small

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Hut and in the bottom ran a stream of water, which, poetry appart, might be justly called chrystaline, and said to tinkle as it fell from Rock to Rock, and Murmur along the Pebbles. We walked up towards the Cottage: they seemed to be poor indeed; and had little to give us either to eat or drink except the water which ran below: he however did what he could, and if he had not wherewithall to allay our hunger he attemped to charm it, for without speaking five words he placed himself on his back-side and in an instant called forth more Music out of two pieces of dryed sticks laid hollow, than I had before heard at these Islands. After he had finished his Solo, Sonata Overture, or whatever else you may please to call it, for I am no dab at your Musical Matters, we distributed our Crumbs of Comfort amongst his Women & Children, and set off homeward. He accompanied us a little way, till finding a favourable Opportunity, he snatched two Chissells, which one of the Lieutennants (in a very tempting manner it is true) carried under his Arm, and flew with them through the woods like an Arrow. When we got back I found that the Princess Poydoa performed that Evening for the Entertainment of the strangers, as these were my favorite amusements, I made scarce more than a hop skip & Jump to the Play-house where I found she could twist & distort a set of very delicate features with as much dexterity as ever. 'Tis true this did not divert me much; but sufficient Amends were made by some of the Interludes to me, whose tast is not over & above delicate. The Concluding Piece, they called Mydiddee Arramy. Which I know not how to translate better than The Child-Coming. The part of the Woman in Labour was performed by a large brawny Man with a great black bushy beard, which was ludicrous enough. He sat on the ground with his legs straight out, between the legs of another who sat behind him and held the labouring man's back hard against his own breast. A large white Cloth was spread over both which was carefully kept close down to the Ground on every side by others who kneeled round them. The farce was carried on for a considerable time with a great many wrigglings and twistings of the body, and Exclamations of Away! Away! Away to perea! (which I dare not translate) untill at length, after a more violent than ordinary struggle out crawled a great lubberly fellow from under the Cloth, and ran across the place between the Audience and Actors, and the he-Mother stradling after, squeezing his breasts between his fingers and dabing them across the youngsters Chaps, & every now & ; then to heighten the relish of the entertainment mistooke and stroaked them up his backside. On the whole it was conducted with decency enough for a Male Audience, had not Mididdee dragged a great wisp of straw after him which hung by a long string from his Middle. The Women did not however retire even from this part of the Entertainment, or even turn their faces but sat with as demure a Gravity as Judges are said to do when hearing baudy Causes. I asked some who sat round me why they also did not laugh as I did & one of them replied 'Mididdee tooatooy', the aptitude of which expression pleased me as much as the Entertainment itself, because the latter word has exactly the same meaning and is applied in the same manner as the word Impotent is with us.

After the Entertainment Capt Cook desired the Company of Poydoa her Mother Brother &c &c to dinner the next day, and they came to breakfast. I was much diverted with the polite and Easy behaviour of the Lady we had brought with us from Otahitee on this occasion, for when they arrived she ran to the Gang-way received every woman as she came up the side in her Arms and kissed them with as much easy cordiallity (and perhaps hypocrisy) as ever a fine Lady in Great Britain could have done: but she was in truth a cute Girl and deficient in no one point, that I know of, unless it was Chastity, and as to that it was not seemingly considered as one of the Cardinal Virtues at our house. It was Low-water this morning about 7 AM

28th. Moderate Wind easterly and fine Weather. It was high water about One o'Clock, and the rise of the Water 7¾ Inches. I dined along with Orehow the Aree of Uliateah and father of Poydoa in the Cabbin; His Wife, Daughter, and some other Females who Came with them being not allowed by their Customs to eat with their Lords and Masters the Males, eat their Victuals in another Room. I believe the Old Gentleman drank a full Bottle of wine to his own share which at length made him Noisy, and he insisted on our going on shore with him where Poydoa should Entertain us with another heavah. Much about the time that the Entertainment began, we lost the old Gentleman and did not see him again untill after it was over, so concluded his wine had put him to sleep, and were going away without enquiring for him and had just got to the boat, when he came running through the Croud, caught hold of the Capt & lead him back, where we found two or three Hogs, and a heap of Cocoa Nuts and bread fruit almost sufficient to load the Boat which he told the Capt he must take on board with him; so that notwithstanding his being drunk we found he had been employing his time to Much better purpose than sleeping. The Heavah was as usual; but I shall describe one Interlude which I had not seen before, as I think it may perhaps tend to throw some light on an order of Men here which we are but little Acquainted with I mean those who are forbid the use of Women but whom we discovered a little before we left Otahitee have a considerable share in the

[Page 309]
Management of their Millitary Affairs, and are called Aree-Owhee's.

The principal Actors were 4 Men and a Boy, and after some parade which I did not understand, One of the Men took of a piece of Cloth which he shewed to those round him, and then dancing up to the drums, in doing which he kept exact time to the music, shewed his Cloth spoke some words and then came and threw it with an Air of defiance on the Ground. Another Man did the same in every respect; and after him the Boy also; only the latter instead of throwing down his Cloth with that menacing Air which the others did he hid it under a Mat which Covered the Floor, and stood on one side while the two Men stood each by his Cloth with their Arms folded in a sort of sullen posture. Another Man then pulled a very small bit from his Garment, and in immitation of the former, danced up to the Music, with a great Many Ludicrous Gesticulations, and shewed his shred of Cloth with much Pomp and many Airs of defiance, spoke the same words which they did, and then came in the face of the two Men and blew it away with his Mouth; when folding his arms as they did and affecting their Gravity, he asked them if they were Aree-Owhees to which they Answered in the Affirmative; and he replied (literally) Sweet Aree Owhees! and instantly prepared to attack them on which they took up their Cloth & tied round them in manner of a sash and one of 'em engaged him but was soon beaten, his Cloth taken from him and he turned away in disgrace; he then Attacked the other but was now beat in his turn on which the Victor was Crowned with green boughs &c by his Companions who afterwards danced round him & the Piece concluded.

It was low-water about ¼ past 8 AM. ...
May 29th Moderate Wind, easterly and flying Clouds: it was high water to day about 2 oClock, and the Rise was 7½ inches: The Morning Low-water was at 9 o'Clock. N.B. The high Peak of Bola bola bore N. 58 West from the Ship when at Anchor.
30th. The Weather yet very fine, and the Wind Easterly. The time of High water did not today exceed ½ past 2 o’clockand the rise was 7 ½ Inches. The morning low water was about half nine but I had not an opportunity ofattending it properly. This forenoon one of the Natives came on board who measured 6 feet 4 Inches & ¾ ; he was slender and exceeding upright, & had a sister along with him almost as tall as himself.
31 st . Wind & Weather as above. High water between 3 and 4 o'Clock and the rise of the Water was 7 ½ Inches.
June 1st Wind and Weather still the same. To Day one of the Natives arrived in a Canoe from Huaheine, and told us there were two ships come to that place: that one was Capt Furneaux, and the other Mr. Banks; that he had been on board them, and that in one they made him drunk. In short he told his story in as clear and particular a Manner as I could have done it, and added that Capt Furneaux' Ship was less and Mr Banks' Greater than the Resolution.
2nd. The Wind and weather yet the same. Many Rockets, Balloons, and other fire-works were this Evening played off for the Amusement of the Natives; but they had been so long on board the Ship that very few were good for any thing. Many of the Natives still insist on Mr Banks, and Capt Furneaux being at Huaheine. In the Morning Orehow, and his whole Family came on board, amongst whom was a Young Woman, who when we were here last accompanied Poydoa in her Theatrical Exhibitions; but now declined it on account of being with Child. She made not the least scruple of telling us that she should strangle it as soon as born, because the father was an Aree-Owkee. We should have got more Intelligence from her, I believe, on this head, had it not been for Oediddee, who stopped her short with great earnestness, and told her that such things were not done in Britannia, and that we thought them bad. After this we might as well have hoped to extract Oil out of Tinder, as another word from her on this subject; and tho' I was very angry with the Boy for disappointing me, yet could I not help being pleased with him on the whole as I was convinced that he was actuated by a fear of his Country's suffering in our opinion: therefore though he must be' damned to all Eternity as a Philosopher; yet as a Patriot, a good natured Man, & a lover of humanity; I think he must certainly be saved! Indeed every Action of his life shewed him possessed of one of the most humane hearts that ever Man was - May he live long, and enjoy that happiness which such a heart only can give! - The Maxim that a Prophet has no honour in his own Country was never more fully Verified than in this Youth - he was not the least notice taken of here, so that I believe every one without exception were now sorry he was not left at Otahitee, although all joined then in thinking it expedient that we should bring him hither.
3rd. The Wind and weather yet continues the same. In the Morning the ship was unmoored and by ten oClock, under-way. Orehow, and his whole Family had been on board all the Morning, and frequently in Tears at the thoughts of our Departure; and more especially as Capt Cook had told them he did not expect ever to come again. The utmost minute being now come, for we were without the harbour's Mouth, the old man and his whole family without exception went over the side into their Canoe which waited for them bathed in tears: But if this was the Case with those whose Acquaintance with us had been so short; what must have been the Conflict in poor Oediddee's breast whose Accquaintance had been so long & whose heart was certainly made of Nature's softest Materials. His legs seemed scarce Able to support him

[Page 310]
over the side into the Canoe which waited for him, and when it droped a stern of the ship he gave a look up at her of unutterable anguish, burst into tears and droped down in the stern of it. Nothing I believe could have torn him from us would Capt Cook have given him the least hopes of his being ever able to return. - The Affection which the Natives of this Island in particular have taken to the English has something remarkable in it. Those off Otahitee are certainly not inferior to them in the goodness of their dispositions, and have had a longer Acquaintance with us, yet although a look of silent sorrow is always visible in their Countinance at our departure yet they always manage so as to keep it within very decent bounds, whereas these are able to preserve none. The Natives of Huaheine, although situate between the two, seem of a much less gentle disposition than either, nor are they much liked by them, which appears to me a little odd. At Noon Ohamoneno Harbour bore East, distant about 5 Miles, and the Latitude observed was 16°.44 ½’S.

On computing the Observations made in this Harbour, I find the Watch gives 208°.25'8"E which is only 1 2/3” in time different from what it gave last Year. I had 8 observations of distances of the D’s limb from the sun & stars in four of which the double Altitude of the sun’s Lower Limb was taken and in the other 4 I took the Time by the Watch and computed it. As the former gives too small a Longit and much less than the others I am apprehensive the double Alt. of the sun was not properly taken which is very possible as the person was not used to that sort of Observations. The mean of these give the Longit. 207°. 59’. 13½“ E. and the others 208°. 18’. 23” E. The Latitude by a Mean of three double Altitudes of the Sun on the Meridian is 16°. 45’. 34½“ S. and I made the Variation by 6 Observations taken on board 6°. 4 1/12” E. by a mean of two taken on shore it was 6°. 24¼’ E. What the reason can be why those Azimuths which I took here last year gave so little Variation I I cannot imagine.

By taking the Mean of these & those I had last year, and of the Longit. given by the Watch both times I make the Longitude of Ohamononeno Harbour 208°. 23’. 27½“ E. I believe it must be exceeding near the South.

Saturday, June ye 4th 1774

Weather
Mod. Wind & Flying Clouds

Remarks
At 3 I took Altitudes when Bolabola bore N. 3½ °E. & the west end of Otahaw N. 58°E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 5 oClock Maurua bore N.W. b. W ½ W. the West side of Bola-bola N.E. b. N. the North End of Uliatiah East and the North side of Otahaw N.E. b. E. ½ E. Hence it appears that Maurua bears N.W. b. W. ½ W. from the N.W. Point of Otahaw.
At 6 oClock shortened sail & brought too.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail and had a great swell from the southward. Variation by Azimuth 7°2’ E. Log.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 8 oClock Maulrua bore N. b. E. ½ E.
Longit. by Distance of the Sun & D. 207°. 27¼‘ E.
It appears from the above Remarks that the Latitude of the Middle of Bola-bola is 16. 25 2/3 S. Their Longitude, supposing that of Ohamononeno Harbour to be 208°. 23’. 27½“ E. will be 208°. 8 1/8” E. and 207°. 27 1/3’ E. respectively.

Weather
Do. do.

[Page 311]
Sunday, June ye 5th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Handed the mainsail hauled up the fore sail took in a reef of each of the Topsails and brought too Main Topsail to the Mast.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Let out all Reefs and made sail.
Variation by Azimuth 6°.00’ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Saw land bearing West.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At Noon the Extreams of ye. Island West & N.W. ¾ W.

Thursday June ye 6th 1774

Weather
Brisk wind & Cloudy

Remarks
At 1 oClock the western Extream of the Island N. 9°E. and at ¼ past the southern Extream bore N. 51½°W.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At ¼ past 2 the West Extream bore N. 33°E.
This is a circular reef, over which the Sea breaks in most places, and on it are several little Islands covered with Cocoa Nut & other Trees. We saw no Inhabitants, or signs of any. Capt. Wallis discovered this Island in the Dolphins second Voyage & Called it Howe’s Island. The Latit. of its Midle is 16°. 46½’ S. and its Longit. by Mr. Kendall’s Watch 205°. 55’; or granting Uliatiah to be in 258°. 23’. 27½“ E.; in Longit. 205°. 53 1/3’ E. It is not more than 3 or 4 Miles in diameter.

Weather
Do. Lightning
Do. do.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
At ½ past 4 A.M. bore away & made sail.

Weather
Do. Rain
Do. heavy rain.

[Page 312]
Tuesday, June 7th 1774

Weather
Squally with Rain
Do. do.

Remarks
Taken aback.

Weather
Little Wind & Cloudy
Lightning & rain
Do. do.
Little Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Set the Studding sails.

Weather
Moderate Wind & Flying Clouds.

Wednesday, June yr. 8th 1774

Weather
Little Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 7°. 55 1/3’ E.
Took in a reef of the Topsails.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Brought too Main Topsail to the Mast.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Bore away Lets out all reefs & bore away.
Variation by Azimuth 8°. 16 E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

[Page 313]
Thursday, June ye 9th 1774

Weather
Light Wind & flying Clouds
Moderate & Cloudy

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 8°. 00 2/3’ E.

Weather
Thick & Lightning

Remarks
Brought too main topsail to the Mast.

Weather
Lightning & rain
Squally with rain

Remarks
Bore away & made sail.

Weather
Moderate Wind & rain.
Light Breeze & Cloudy

Remarks
A troublesome Irregular Sea.

Friday, June ye 10th 1774

Weather
Little Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
A great rolling Sea

Weather
Do. Hazy

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 8°. 46’ E.

Weather
Calm do.
Little Wind do.
Do. Rains
Moderate Wind & showers
Do. Cloudy

[Page 314]
Saturday, June ye 11th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Took a Reef in each of the Topsails

Weather
Brisk Wind & heavy Rain

Remarks
Wove Ship

Weather
Do with swirling Rain

Remarks
Wove ship: A great Head Sea.
Bore away, let out all Reefs and set the Studding sails.

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy

Do. do.

Sunday, June ye 12th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail for the Night.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail & bore away.

Weather
Do. do.
Moderate Wind & Flyg. Clouds.

[Page 315]
Monday, June ye 13th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. By Dist. of sun & [indecipherable] 197°. 47’ E.
Shortened sail.

Weather
Moderate Wind, do.
Do. and flying Clouds
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail.
Variation by Azimuth 9°. 15½‘ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Tuesday, June ye 14th 1775

Weather
Little Wind & flying Clouds
Very fine Weather

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. [indecipherable] & D. 197°.50’ E. Do. by D & Spica 198°. 3’ E.
Variation by Azimuth 8°. 29½‘ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Light Air & do.

Remarks
Many Grampasses about the Ship.

Variation by Azimuth 8°. 19’ E.
Saw a Man-of-War & many Tropic Birds.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Served Bread. All our Bread Fruit & Plantains being done; a circumstances which would be regretted at any time, much more so now, as the bread is grown very bad.

Weather
Do. do.

[Page 316]
Wednesday, June ye 15th 1774

Weather
Little Wind & fine weather

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O & D 197°. 51°E.
Ditto by Dist. D & Spica 197.80 E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 9°. 14’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
I saw several Man-of-War Birds. Many sharks about the Ship; caught two very large ones.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 9°. 16½‘ E.
Saw Land to the Northward: bore away for it and set the studding sails.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At Noon the Western part of the Land bore N. b. E.

Thursday, June ye 16th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & fine Wr.

Remarks
At 1.50 the E. Pt. of ye Reef N. 73°E. The 6th Pt. of Land N. of E.E. and West Point N. 17°E. At 2h. 20 the South Reef S. 8½ E. The fourth Land E. as by the west Land N. 28°E. & West Reef N. 7°E. At 3h. 5 the West Land on with another at S. 86 E. At 3h. 13 it was on with a sound at 8’ 3 b. E. At 3h. 50 the Extreams of G Land & Bay N. 10°E. & S. 5°West.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. Sun & Moon 197. 44½‘ E.
Ditto. by Moon & Spica – 197. 51¾ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
This Land consists of a parcel of small low Islands situate on a sort of oval Reef, its longest Diameter lying nearly North & South, in length about 10 Miles: its shorter diameter is nearly 7 Miles. The Islands are all well covered with Cocoa-Nut & other Trees; but we saw no Inhabitants. Contrary to most of those we have seen before, the Water seemed very shallow within the reef and a long Shoal runs off from its Is.West Point which we crossed in very shallow Water and the Ship raised several hundreds of small Sharks, which lay at ye Bottom. Its Middle is in Latitude 18°.00’ S. and Longit. 196°. 39½‘ E. by [indecipherable]. Nineteen Lunar Observations 6 of which were taken before & thirteen after passing it give 197°. 8’. 26’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 10°.01’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

[Page 317]
Friday, June ye 17th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & fine weather

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O & D 195°. 07¼‘ E.
Do. D & Spica 195x 55½ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Many Man of War Birds.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 10°. 2 1/3 E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Saturday, June ye 18th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Little Wind, do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 10°. 26½‘ E.

Weather
Do. and fine Weather
Do. do.

[Page 318]
Sunday, June ye 19th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind fine Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O & D 192°. 04’ E.
Do. D & [indecipherable] 192. 28 E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Monday, June ye 20th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & flyg. Clouds

Remarks
It was thought by many that they saw high Land to the south. Shot for it until two oClock when finding it only clouds. They bore away. At 3 oClock Land was actually seen to the westward from the Mast Head..

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
A little before 5 hauled on a wind at which time the Land bore from W.S.W. to S. to W ¼ N.
At 4h. 38’ Long. by dist. O & D (East Observat.) 190°. 30¼’ E. Mr. Kendalls Watch give 190°. 22 7/8’ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Stood on a Wind until half past 5 in the morning and then bore away, the Northern Extream of the island bearing W. ¼ S.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At ½ past 7 A.M. Variation by Azimuth 9°. 38’ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 8 oClock the East Etream of the land at 34 W.
At ¼ past 9 the same Point bore S. 3 W.
¼ past 10 it was shut in by a Point on this side of it at S. 27°E.
At eleven oClock this last was shut in by a Northern Extream of the Island at S. 87 E.
At 11h. 21 another Point opened of the farthest we had hitherto seen to the North West at S. 25½ °W. and about the same time we saw many of the Natives running along the Rocks and heard them making a noise as if calling to us.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At ½ past 11 another Point opened of the last mentioned one at S. 16°W. at which time the Ship was brought on a wind with her head towards the Shore. The Boats were Hoisted out and the [indecipherable]. Some of the Officers and Gentlemen went on shore. My business on board the Ship at Noon did not permit me to make one, as I could have wished.

Weather
Do. do.

[Page 319]
Tuesday, June ye 21st 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & flyg. Clouds

Remarks
At one oClock bore away.
At [indecipherable] the North point of the Island was shut in by that off which opened the last but one opened when they bore N. 76 E. At 2h. 26, the Points which opened S. 25½°W. shut in at N. 87 E. At a little before 3 hauled on a Wind, as the Boats stopped and soon after we heard firing: tacked and stood on shore, and in little time saw the Boats put off. About 4 they came along side & were hoisted in, & at ½ past, bore away.

Weather
Light breezes, do.
Long. D. & Spica 190°. 33’ E.
Do. D. & [indecipherable] 190. 00 E.
Var. by Azim. 11. 25 E.
Do. do.

Remarks
We now learn that they had been attacked twice by the Natives. The first time they landed they took possession of the Island in form erecting the English colours etc. as is want on these occasions; but whether the Natives took umbrage at this or not is uncertain: certain it is they attacked them on the very Act & pelted them with stones and wether our people drove away the Natives or the Natives them is a little doubtful.
However after rowing several miles along shore they ventured to land again, not with intent now to take possession of any thing which belonged to the Natives but to leave them something on some Canoes which were hauled up on the Shore; but while the Capt. was doing this the Natives made their appearance again, and one threw a spear at him with such aim that he avoided it only by stooping. One of the Gentlemen fired at him in return; but with less aim, as it should seem, than he threw the spear or bobing would have been of no service had he tried recourse to it, which he did not. The action now became general on both sides, the Natives retired a little way into a high Rock where it seems they stood the fire of the whole Party for 6 or 10 members, and at last it was not certain that any were killed; however as their retreat was sudden & with a kind of howl it is most probably there were. This is the substance of what I had from Mr. Hodges whose intelligence I have made use of before when I was not present my self & dare say it is pretty Just.

Weather
Do. do.
Var. by Azim. 10°. 48½ ‘ E.
Do. do.

Remarks
At 4h. 40’ another point opened to the S.Wd. at S. 34°E.: between these there is a pretty deep Bay; and at ¼ past 6 the most southerly point bore S. 73 E.
From the preceeding Observations I gather that this Island is about 14 Miles long and 8 broad; and that its greatest length lies about N.N.E. and S.S.W. Moreover its Northern Extream is in Latit. 18°. 56¼ ‘ S. and its southern one in Latit. 190. 08½’ S. Its Eastern Extream is by the Watch in 189°. 50½’ & its western one in 189°. 50½’ E. By a mean of 20 Lunar Observations they are in 190°. 35 1/10’ & 190°. 23¾ ‘ East. The Island is of a Moderate height, has the appearance of great facility & is in most places covered with wood, but the shores seem almost everywhere inaccessible, & we saw no fruit trees on it except a few of the Cocoa-Nut kind.

Wednesday, June ye 22nd 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & flyg. Clouds
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by (D & Spica 189°. 41’) E
(D. & [indecipherable] 129°. 11)

Variation by Azimuth 11.08 1/3 E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 10°. 59’ E.

Weather
Do. do.

[Page 320]
Thursday, June 23rd 1774

Weather
Moderate wind & flyg. Clouds
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist D & Spica 188°. 16’ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Set the studding sails.
Variation by Azimuth 11°. 40½‘ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Friday, June 24th, 1774

Remarks
At ½ past 11 oClock hauled in a Wind with the ships Head to the Northward and at 2 A.M. bore away; but at 3 imagining that Breakers were heard, hauled on a Wind again to the southern. At 6 oClock bore away and half an hour afterwards saw Breakers and Land from the starboard to the larboard Beam. Hauled to the Northwards & soon after saw land & breakers right ahead. Then tacked & stood on a Wind southerly. As to those Island & reefs to the Northward I can say little except that when we tacked at 7 oClock an Island was seen from the Mast Head bearing N.N.W. And many Patches of Reefs & broken water from thence to W.S.W. Variation by Azimuth 9°. 21¾‘ E.
At 8 many more Islands & reefs were seen bearing S.W., these last proved to be five small low Islands situate in a sort of small circular reef which is the first of these form I have seen, and at ½ past 10 oClock the first, or most northerly one bore S.78°W., the second S.68°W., the third S. 59½°W., the fourth S. 45°West, and the fifth S. 30 W.
At 11h. 50 the first & 2nd Islands were in one & bore N.85°W. and the reef extended to the Northward several degrees beyond this bearing.

[Page 321]
Saturday, June 25th, 1774

Weather
Little wind & Hary

Remarks
A quarter before 1 oClock the second & third Isles were in one & bore N.76 ½ W

At 3 o'clock the 3rd Isle bore N. 39 deg W, the 4th. N. 57 deg W. and the 5th S.. 81 deg W.

Weather
Do Cloudy
Do
Do Calm & Hary

Remarks
The ship driving fast towards the Land.

At 4 oClock the Ship was not more than a mile from the breakers which lie off the point of the southermost Island; when very providentially a gentle breeze sprang up at South by which means we got clear, for this time. Variation by azimuth 12 deg 6 ½ E
At ½ past 7 a small cluster of breakers were seen S. 20 deg W. and the 4th & 5th Islands were then in one and bore N. 11 ½ deg W.

Weather
Little wind do

Remarks
At 9 H 23' an Island called Tellesages by the natives bore S.37W. and one called Tonamai S.66W. Two small ones between them S.46W. & 5.56W. at the same time sounded & found 40 fathoms, sand & shells. At 10 had 40 fath bottom as before. At ¼ past ten two small islands mentioned above bore bore S. 20 deg W & S 31 deg. W & Two Islands to the Northward called by the Natives Comargo and Comango-ette (little) bore N. 15degW. And N. 12 ½ deg W. At 11 H sounded again and had 45 fathom bottom Coral, sand, & shells.

Weather
Moderate wind & fly. Clouds

Remarks
At noon Tellesages S. 23 E. Tonamai S.deg 20 ¼ E. The Extremes of Annamocka N. 10 deg W & N. 30 deg W Comango N. 39 E Comango-ettee N. 32 E. & the Extremes of Comango N 36 E to N 47 deg E. Two small Isles south west of Comango were in one and bore N. 23 E. Many Natives on board and alongside with fruit & roots.

June 26th After sailing 2 ½ miles W. & N and one West Tonamai and Tellesages were in one and bore S. 41 E. The Southernmost of the two small Isles which lies South West of Comango was in one with the Point of the Eastern Bay when bearing S. 88 E. The two Annams has opeen off each other at N 70 deg E. A small Island on which grow five Cocoa-Nut Trees (very remarkable) was in one with the South End of great Annamocka at N 81 deg E. and on with the North End of litle Annamocka at S. 62 deg and also in one with the South Point of Little Annamocka at S. 40 deg E. The most Northerly of the five Islands South-west of Comango as on with the South side of Great Annamocka at S 60 ½ W. The West point of great Annamocka was on with the five Cocoa-Nuts at S. 10 deg W. The North end of Comango began to open off the North Point of Great Annamocka at S 88 deg E. and at 5 oClock we came to an Anchor under the North side off great Annamocka in fathoms Water after sailing N.N.W. 3 ¾ Miles, N.N.E. 3 ¾ and E.N.E.1 ¾ the wind being S.E. the whole Afternoon. When brought up the Extreams of the Island bore 88 3/4E. & 34 ½ W.

Ever since 9 or 10 oClock in the Morning we have had Natives round the ship in their Canoes from the different Islands as we came along, and who came without hesitation on board the Ship as often as asked to do it. They brought off with them the Yauva, or pepper-Root, Cocoa-Nuts Plantains Chaddocks Yams & fowls. As soon as we had Anchored the sea was almost covered with Boats bringing Roots fruit which we purchased for Nails; that Article of Commerce being as valuable here as at any place we have seen before.

In the Morning the Capt and Officers went on shore to look for water, and found three large Ponds or Lakes; but two were perfectly salt-water, and that in the third was very brackish, full of Insects, and stunk intolerably; so that Either they did not meet with Tasman's Pond (which I suspect) a great Alteration has happened in it (which is possible) or he has much misrepresented Matters, which we have not known of him before. In the Morning we saw to the Northward a great Multitude of Islands, all of which were small and low; and two to the North-West which were high. The Extreams of the larger of these bore N 40 1/3 °W & 33 ¾ °W. and the Middle of the Other N.29 ½ W. A large Cluster of ye low ones bore N ½ E. and four which were nearest us N.31°E., N.19°E., N. 15°. E & N12°E.
June 27th. This Afternoon I went on shore, and when we landed met the surgeon, who had been left behind in the forenoon. The Natives had by surprize snatched and wrested his Gun from him, and it was with some difficulty he kept them from Striping him by presenting a tooth-pick Case which they Mistook for a Pistol; but as soon as we appeared they left him and shifted for themselves. We walked a Considerable way in the Island & found the Houses and Plantations to be exactly like those of Tongatabu and Eaoowe, but not near so Elegant nor was the Island by much so well Cultivated, as the former of those, although from the Accounts of Tasman I expected to have found it more so. The Persons, Manners, and Dress of the People are also perfectly corrispondent to those of Tongatabu; and I cannot again forbear expressing My Admiration of the sweetness, softness & Melody of their singing and playing on their flutes & ten reed pipe, and as to the address & behaviour of their women it has a delicacy and softness in it utterly unknown to any other Indian Women whatever; I must however acknowledge that on a second review of both that in point of.

[Page 322]
The Island as far as I could perceive does not differ in any respect from other low Reef Islands, except that the Lakes or Lagoon in the Middle of it seems almost filled, or grown up, probably owing to the luxuriance of the Vegetation which is evidently much greater than the Consumption, as we saw vast quantities of fruit lying roting under the Trees for want of Gathering, and this I suppose must greatly increase the soil. Two salt springs were seen here, one of them which I saw appeared to me considerably above the surface of the sea & I am told the other was so likewise, a circumstance which think rather extroardinary, unless they proceed from some of the Inland Lakes, which perhaps by their being filled up may raise the water, above that in the sea, and so feed those springs. To us the Natives behaved with great Civillity owing probably to the Number of our Party.

In the Morning the Boats went again on shore to get Water, and trade for fruits, Roots &c, an Officer who went to superintend the Work had his piece seized, and several others were Robbed of divers Articles, On which several Guns loaded with Shot were fired from the Ship into that part of the Island, & the Capt went on shore with a party of Marines; seized two of their large sailing Canoes; and one Man who attempted to defend them was Much hurt in his wrist & thigh by a load of small shot; those proceedings terrified them so much that they immediately brought down both Guns & every other thing of any vallue which they had stoln & restored them, in return the Canoes were given up and Mr Pattin went on shore & dressed the Man's Wounds, and found them not very dangerous. They appeared it seems vastly pleased at the attention paid to the Man's hurt and both sides parted, seemingly with great good friendship to one another, and our trade went on as before; but without any Thievery.
28. The Capt and Mr Cooper being both on shore, and not coming off untill late in the Afternoon I could not wind the Watch up at the usual Time, and by some fatallity or other I forgot afterwards untill it was down; I have, two or three times before, been near let it go down on the same Account but luckily recollected before it was down. I took several Altitudes this Morning from whence I find it is 2h.10’41” slower than it was before; and as I had got several at this place before it was let go down no inconvenience can possibly Anise from this Accident; however as I had now kept it going two years I had begun to flatter my self with the hopes of carrying it home without any thing of this sort happening.

Having Got a large Cargo of Yams, which I think the best root in the World, and Fruit, a few Fowls and two or three small Pigs, we weighed about 7 oClock, and after sailing N.N.W. 4 ¾ °, tacked, & stood S.W.b.S. 3 ½ Miles then tacked & stood N.N.W. 3 Miles to Noon, when we were close to a small sandy Island which lies N.b.W. from the place where we lay at Anchor, and I observed the Latitude 20°.05’50”S.
The People of these Islands resemble so much those of Tongatabu that it would be only repeating the same words were I to say any thing concerning those. Their Canoes also are exactly the same as those; but as I cannot find that I have there said any thing concerning them, it may not be amiss to do it now. They are from about 16 to 20 feet long & about 20 or perhaps 22 Inches broad in the Middle, and taper off gradually in breadth towards each end: One way they carry their whole depth, or at least nearly so to the very extermity but the other way they come off to nearly a point, the Keel or under part being taken away. They are Covered for about ¼ part of their whole length at ea. end, and in the Middle are open. They are formed of several pieces joined together with bandage in so neat a Manner that on the outside it is difficult to see the Joints, all the fastenings being on the inside & pass through ridges left, or rather worked on the several boards which compose the vessell at their edges & ends, for that purpose. No Canoes that we have seen in these seas can bear the least Comparison with these in point of neatness & workmanship. Besides these, of which every Man seems to have one, they have others, which are formed by fixing two very large ones, exactly resembling these in shape, together by Cross pieces: these have a Mast & yard & Carry very large sails of Matts, which Jibes round when they want to Tack in a very convenient Manner; but how the Manoeuvre is performed I could not see. In rigging these Vessells they employ Ropes near as thick as our 5 In Hawsers, which are laid in the same Manner with ours but, I think neater than any I ever saw before, the strands having so very regular and sharp a twist: I know not of what Materials they are made. Two or three of these Vessells & a vast Number of the small ones which also Occasionally carry a small Latine sail Accompanied us all this Day, and tacked when we did so that it is possible that some who have seen more of working various kinds of Vessells than I have may be able to describe in what manner those do it.

The Longit. of this Place as shewn by the Watch is 184°59’36” E.; but by a Mean of 27 Lunar Observations, 15 of which were Made before we came there, 3 at the Place, and 9 after leaving it, the Longitude comes out 185°29’01 E. Those Observations which were not made at the Place were reduced to it by the Watch as usual. The Latitude by a Mean of 4 good Meridian Altitudes with two Hadley's Quadts was 20°15’ S. And the Variation by a mean of 4 Azimuths and 2 Amplitudes was 9°47’ E. but this is considerably less than any we had taken for some time before at sea, possibly owing to the ship's head being a different way. I had no opportunity of determining anything concerning the Tides except that it was low Water about 20' past 4 o'Clock on Monday ye 27th which was the only time I had any opportunity of being on shore: By the Marks on the shore it should seem as if it rose about 5 feet but I know by repeated Experience how very fallacious this way of Judging is.

NOTE IN MARGIN OF PAGE
At Noon a small sandy Island on which grows a very remarkable Tree bore S. 80°E. about a mile. The Place where we lay at Anchor S. b. E. The first of the four low Isles sit from the Ship when at Anchor subtended with the abovementioned Tree an L of 24°to the right, the 2nd was nearly on with it, the 3rd subtended L of 15°to ye left & ye 4th an L of 32°. The two first of ye cluster of Isles to the northward was in one & subtended with ye Tree 47°. A 3rd subtended 54°, a 4th 56°, a 5th 60°, a 6th and 7th were nearly on with ye extreams of a pretty large one behind them & subtended 68°& 69°. An 8th 70°, a 9th 78°, a 10th 88°and the farthest 83°.

[Page 323]
Wednesday June 29th 1774

Weather
Little Wind & fine Weather

Remarks
The Natives who came on board informed me that the Lesser of the two high Islands to the Northwest is called Aggouland, and the greater Mattafoa.

Weather
Do Do

Remarks
Longit. by Distance D [indecipherable] & Aquila, 185' 42' E.
Sounded: no Ground with 60 fathoms

Variation by Azimuth 11. deg 49 1/3 E

Weather
Do Do
Do Do
Do Cloudy
Do Do

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 11 deg..08/[indecipherable] E.

At 9 H the nearer of the 2 low Isles which were in one yesterday noon bore S 74 deg E. & the other sublended with it on L of 8 deg the 3d.24. the 4th 26 deg the 5th 38 deg the 6th 17 ¾ deg 7th 30 deg the 8th 43 deg the 9th & 10th 57 deg &68° [indecipherable] wore nearly on with [indecipherable] Extreams of the great one beyond the; the 11th sublended 82 deg and was in one with a large one that lies further north than any seen yesterday. A Reef runs off from ye 11th & seemingly tends towards the last. I believe ye same order is preferred that I took them in yesterday; but am amongst such a number of isles, all so nearly alike as these are it is impossible to be certain.
.
At Noon ye New Island bore N. 55 deg E. the large distant one N. 80 deg E. the Eleventh N.32 E. the Extreams of Aggoan N. 26 deg W. & N 36 deg W. Those of Mattafoa N 46 deg W. & N. 71 W.

Thursday June ye 30th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
At 3 H ..30' Two Points on the South side of Mattafoa on one when S 28 deg W.
At 3 ..50 Two Points on y North side in one at N.85 deg W
At 4 The Extreams of Aggeau N.N.E. and N.10 deg W.

Weather
Do Do

Remarks
At 5..15 Two Points on ye N.W. side of Mattafoa in one when S. 40 deg W.
At 6.00 the Extreams of Mattafoa S. 8 deg E to S. 86 E. and those of Aggoau N. 53 E. to N. 74 E..

Weather
Do Do

Remarks
The Island Aggoau is an high, round, upright Peak or Spire. Tasman has got its Name Kaybay, and represented its shape very well only he seems to have supposed it a bare rock whereas it is covered with Trees and Bushes up to its very summet notwithstanding the steepness, on which account it seems difficult to conceive how Earth enough to nourish them can hang on it. Possibly Tasman was not near enough to see the Trees, and this consideration might lead him into the Mistake.
Mattafoa is much larger; but, I think, scarcely so high as Aggroa. It also is nearly round and on evey side appeared as if there were a hollow, or round Vally in the middle, out of which arose vast Colonies of black smoke all the Time

Weather
Do Do

Remarks
We were within sight of it, whence it is probably a Volcano.
The Smoke might however arise from the Trees & other Matters being set on fire by some means or other. The Greatest part of those on its North-West side seem to have been lately burned.
We saw no Inhabitants on either of them. –

Weather
Do Do

Remarks
At 6 A.M. saw The Island Mattafoa bearing E.N.E.

[Page 324]
Friday July ye 1st 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail

Weather
Do. & flying do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O & D 182°. 04¾’ E. Observed with Dollonds Quadr.
Do. 121. 59 5/8 E. Do. with Ramsdens do.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
A great swell from the S.S.W.

Saturday July ye 2nd 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Saw Land.
At 3h. 30’ the Extreams of the island N. 55°W. & N. 87°W. and a very small Isle or Rock was just on with the southern Extream. Bushes were now seen from West to South West.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 4 oClock hauled on a Wind to the Eastward at which time the extreams of the Island S. 57°W. & S. 88°W. This Island seems to be surrounded by a Reef like those of the Society Isles.

Weather
Do. and flying Clouds
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 12°. 47’ E.
Longit. by Dist.
(D & [indecipherable] W. 181. 49¼) E.
(D & O 181. 46¾)
(D & O 181. 59½)
(D & O 182. 18¾)
The three Distances of the D & O were observed with three several Quadrants.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 9H. 15’ A.M. the N. side of the Island opened at S. 58°W. & 4°V.P. bore S. 15°W. The Extreams of the Reef S. 5°W. & S. 54 W. At ½ past 10 the Boats were hoisted out & sent to examine an opening that appeared in the Reef. At Noon 5 Extreams of the Island S. 65°E. & S. 9°W. The Extreams of the Reef East and S. 41½°W. The Inside One of 3 remarkable Rocks (the Captains) S. 14 W.

[Page 325]
Sunday, July ye 3rd 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & fine Weather

Remarks
At 40’ past Noon another Point of ye Reef opened off that seen farthest west at Noon when bearing S. b. W. At 1h. 40’ the South Point of ye Reef which surrounds the Island bore East, and another Reef which is possibly that seen last night, extended from S. 30°E. to S. 11°W.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 12°. 09’ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 6 o’Clock the western Extream of the Reef bore S. 42°E. The Above mentioned Island is pretty high for its size and well covered with Wood amongst which appeared some Cocoa-Nut Trees. It does not exceed two miles & an half in length & half of that quantity in breadth. There were many Inhabitants on it who came off to the outer edge of the Reef to view us. The Boat did not find any convenient place to Anchor in, but saw many Turtles, on which account after Dinner the Boats were again hoisted out & sent to the Reef which lies off the South West Point of the Island to see if they could fish some but returned without success. This Reef is of a circular form with deep water within it. The Middle of the Island is in Latitude 19°. 48¾’ & Longit. 182°. 3’ E. by observation. The Watch gave 181°. 31½E. The Center of ye Reef is in Latitude 19°. 53¾ ‘ S. and Longit. 181°. 58’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
At 6 A.M. the Island bore N.E.
Variation by Azimuth 11°. 52½’ E.
Longit. by Dist. [Sun & Moon.] -
(182. 49 7/8 E. Dollond’s Quadr.
(181. 47¼ E. Ramsdens Quadr.
(182. 5 ¼ E. Mr. Clerke’s Quadr.

Weather
Do. do.

Monday, July yr. 4th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Do. do.

Remarks
Variation
(by Azimuth 12°. 17’ E.
(by Amplitude 12. 40’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 12°. 29¾’ E.
Longit. by Dist. O & D.
(180. 42¼ E. Dollond’s Quadr.
(181. 3¼ E. Ramsdens’s Quadr.

Weather
Do. do.

[Page 326]
Tuesday, July ye 5th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Hauled on a Wind under the Topsails.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Bore away and made sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 12°. 4½’ E.
Saw a Gannet.

Weather
Do. do.

Wednesday, July ye 6th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened Sail

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Hauled on a Wind under the Topsail.
Tacked

Weather
Little Wind, do.

Remarks
Tacked
Tacked

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Wore Ship
Bore away and made sail.
Saw a Gannet & several Tropic Birds.
Variation by Azimuth 12°. 17½’ E.

Weather
Mod. Wind & flying clouds

Remarks
Struck and unrigged the fine Top Mast in order to fix new Trussle Trees and Back Stays.

Weather
Brisk Wind, do.

[Page 327]
Thursday, July ye 7th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Rigged and swayed up the fore Top Mast.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Hauled on a Wind under the Main Topsail.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Wore & made sail.
Variation by Azimuth 12°. 59’ E.

Weather
Do. & drizzling Rain

Remarks
Got up the fore-top Gallant Mast and Yard.

Weather
Do. do.

Friday, July ye. 8th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Took in the Studding sails and Top Gallant sails & hauled on a wind to the Northward.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Little Wind, Lightning

Remarks
Made sail.
Variation by Azimuth 13°. 08’ E.

Weather
Do. & heavy showers

Remarks
Saw a Gannet

Weather
Do. & flying Clouds

[Page 328]
Saturday, July ye 9th 1774

Weather
Little Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by azimuth.
Shortened sail.

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail.

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Sunday, July ye 10th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 11°. 01’ E.
Shortened Sail & brought too.

Weather
Squally with Rain
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Bore away and made sail.
Variation by Azimuth 10°. 21 2/3’ E.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. do.

[Page 329]
Monday, ye 11th July 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail and brought too Main Topsail to the Mast.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail and bore away
Variation by Azimuth 10°. 28¼’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Tuesday, ye 12th July 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Brought too main-top-sail to the Mast.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Bore away and made sail.
Variation by Azimuth
(10°. 24 1/3’) E.
(10. 38¾)

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

[Page 330]
Wednesday, July ye. 13th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloud
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O & D
(170°. 10¾’ E. Dollond’s Quadr.
(172. 51½ E. Ramsden’s Quadr.
Variation by Azimuth 10°. 35’ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened sail

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail.
Variation by Azimuth 10°. 13½’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Thursday, July ye. 14th

Weather
Moderate Wind & fine Wr.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O & D
(172°. 18’ E. Dollond’s Quadr.
(172. 12 E. Ramsden’s Do.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Shortened Sail

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Made sail
Variation by Azimuth 11°. 03½’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

[Page 331]
Friday, July ye 13th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & fine Weather

Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O & D
(170°. 55¼’ E. Dollond’s Quadr.
(170. 51¼ E. Ramsden’s Quadr.
Longit. by Dist. D & Antares 171°. 14½’ E.
Shortened sail

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Brought too

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. & squally Weather

Remarks
Bore away & made sail

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Saturday, July ye 16th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind Squally Rain

Remarks
Saw Land, high & mountainous

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Took in the 1st & 2nd Reef of the Topsails.
The Extreams of the land from N.W. b. W. ½ W. to S.S.W. The nearest Land bore about W.S.W. at least 5 Leas.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Tacked
Handed the Mizen Topsail

Weather
Very strong Squalls

Remarks
Wore Ship: split the fore Topsail.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Got down the Top-Gallant Yards.

Weather
Strong Wind & Rain

Remarks
Tacked ship.

[Page 332]
Sunday, July ye 17th 1774

Weather
Heavy Squalls & Rain

Do. do.

Remarks
Tacked Ship

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Handed the Topsails.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Wore Ship

Weather
Do. Much Rain

Remarks
At 7h. 40’ the most southerly land in sight bore South.

Weather
Squally & Hazy

Remarks
A point opened to the N.W. at N. 88 W.
At 8h. 20’ two points to [indecipherable] Southward in one at S. 25 E.
At 8h. 51’ the West side of the Island, which is M. Bougainville’s Aurora opened at S. 23½ E. and we were about a mile from the Shore.
Sounded 50 fathoms & had no Ground.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
At Noon the North End of Aurora bore N. 29°E.

Monday, July yr. 18th 1774

Weather
Strong Wind & Showers

Remarks
At 2h. 3’ The East end of Leper’s Island S. 73 E.
At 3. 6 – N. 80 E.
At 3. 36 A point on this side in one with it at N. 70°E.
At 3. 46 Tacked the West End of Lepers I. 32 W. dist. 5 or 6 Leas. and a point nearer to us S. 29 W. about 3 or 4 Leas.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
At 7h. 36’ A.M. the north-east end of Whitsuntide in one with the East end of Lepers when bearing S. 55½E.
At 7h. 45’ the south end of Aurora on with [indecipherable] East End of Lepers at S. 63½°E. Two Points towards the East End of Lepers in one when N. 80½°E. & two towards the West End in one when S. 56’ W.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The South End of Aurora & North-East End of Whitsuntide open at 54½°E. The East Pt. & one beyond it on Leper in one S. 32°E. 7 or 8 Miles asunder and this last on with a further one at S. 23°W. dist. about 3 Miles.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
A little after 8 oClock seeing one of the Natives coming off to us in a Canoe tacked & stood in shore again. He rowed round the ship as did also another Canoe which had three in it, but neither would come on board us. There stood many on the Rocks, who had Bows in their Hands, and called & waved to us. They are of a very deep Copper Colour, wear plates of the Pearl Oyster Shell on their Breasts & strings of some kind of ornaments round their arms; but seemed otherwise entirely naked. Their Canoes are very mean ones.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At Noon the South End of Aurora S. 31½°E.

[Page 333]
Tuesday, July ye 19th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind with Showers

Remarks
The Shores of Aurora seem almost every where pretty high and steep so; there are, indeed, here & there small Beaches; but they are but of a short extent, and very narrow; beyond which the land rises suddenly as in the other Parts. The Land is of a moderate height, except towards the South End, where it is pretty High, and every where covered with wood; but not the least appearance of Civilisation: Some few Inhabitants where seen towards its South End, & many fine streams of Water.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 5h. 30’ Tacked the South End of Aurora S. 23°E., and the south side of Lepers N. 42°W. The East Point W.S.W. ½ W. Sounded 65 fathoms Sand and Mud.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Leper’s Island is exceeding high especially towards the Middle, from whence it descends in irregular Hummocks towards each End. Its Shores are mostly Steep, without the least appearance of Harbours or Inlets, like those of Aurora. We saw many Natives and some Plantations, which were a considerable way up in the woods, and fenced in with Fences not much unlike those of Amsterdam, etc.

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
At 6h. 32’ A.M. the East Point of Lepers N. 1°N. Its south side West. The No. End of Whitsuntide N. 62¼°E. & yr. So. End of Aurora N. 49½°E.
At 7h. 10’ the So. Pt. of Lepers came in one with a Point East of it when S. 82 W.
At 8h. 10’ the Pt. on Lepers East set bore S. 68°W. Its East Pt. N. 18°W. So. Pt. of Aurora N. 59°E. No. End Whitsuntide N. 85 E. Its So. End S. 31½ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 9h. 20’ So. Pt. Lepers Island S. 59°W. East Pt. N. 52°W. So. End of Aurora N. 85 E. No. Pt. of Whitsuntide S. 61 E. At So. End S.46°E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Shores of Whitsuntide Island are bold, without Inlets, like the former; the Land high and mountainous; but exhibits the most beautiful Prospect I ever saw, being cultivated up to the very summit, and divided into rectangular Fields by Fences which appear like Hedges from the Ship, so that one could scarce help imagining one’s self in sight of England, with an extensive view of enclosed Fields before one.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At noon the North End of Whitsuntide bore N. 65½°S. At the same time yr. following points subtended Angles by Hadley’s Quadr. as indeed, via No. Pt. Whitsun. & So. Pt. of Aurora 25°50’ Do. & Rocks off Aurora 40°20’. Do. & No. End of Aurora 74°20’. Rock off Aurora & Et. Point of Lepers 84°14’. Lepers Isle subtended 70°. Whitsuntide Isle 93°. So. Extension of Lepers & bluff West Pt. of Whitsuntide 103°. 34’.

Wednesday, July ye 20th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
At 2h. 00’ The West Point of Lepers N. 71 W., the East Pt. N. 23°W. The Rocky Point of Aurora N. 20 E. St. Pt. of Aurora N. 26½°E. The No. Pt. of Whitsuntide N. 31½ E. & the Western Bluff N. 61°E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 3h. 30’ St. Pt. of Whitsuntide & West Point of Lepers in a line S. 42°E. & N. 42°W.
At 5h. 30’ The West Point of Lepers N. 67°W. So. Et. Pt. of Do. N. 19°W. Gut between Aurora & Whitsuntide N. 13°E. So. End of Whitsuntide S. 33½°E. Bluff on Do. S. 50°E. & the No. Pt. of the Island beyond Whitsuntide S. 24½°E.

Weather
Do. flying Clouds

Remarks
Longit. at 4 N. 36½’ by Dist.
(D Spica 168°. 36 ‘ ) E.
(D & [indecipherable] Aquila 168. 52½)

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
At 6h. 40’ A.M. The No. End of Whitsuntide N. 7½°W. Its So. End N. 86°E. The opening between Whitsuntide & the Land So. of it subtended by Hadley’s Quadr. 46 1/3 °& the So. End of Whitsuntide & a round High Peak on the West Land 63¾°.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 19h. 50’ took Alto when yr. No. Pt. of Southern Island bore N. 88 E. & the opening between it & Whitsuntide subtended 38°. The Peak & Whitsuntide subtended 58¼°.

Weather
Do. flying Clouds

Remarks
At 10h. 9’ the Western Point of this last land was in one with a East Pt. a little way beyond it when S. 28 E. At 10h. 16’ Alaye Island began to open off the Low Point at S. 39°E. & was quite open when S. 52 E., at 11’ afterwards.
At 10h. 36’ another Island began to open off ye said Point when S. 62 E. & was quite open off another low Point beyond the former at S. 77°E. The time 11h. 2’. The two Low Points opened at 10h. 39’ when bearg. S. 65°E.

Weather
Do. hazy

Remarks
At Noon the East Pt. of Mr. Bougainville’s Great Western Land bore S. 31 E. from which the following angles were measured by Hadley’s Quadr. viz. to west end of ye 1st of yr. above Islands 22°. 4’ to its East End 35°10’ to west end of ye 2nd Isle 46°52’ to its East End 55°40’ to yr. last mentioned low Pt. 66°. 6’ to the round Peak 95°. 20’. The No. Point of this Island which was not in one with the S.W. Pt. of Whitsuntide 102. 45. Tacked close to Shore.

[Page 334]
July ye 21st.

The Shores of the Island, laid down by M. Bougainville, to the South-West of Whitsuntide Island, are on the North-West side exactly like those of the former three, bold, and without Inlets; but on the south west side they are flat. The land is very high and to wards the North Point is a very high Hill which I am convinced is a Volcano, as it continually vomits up vast Columns of black Smoke; but I heard no noise: Some say flames were seen in the Night. The Whole Is well covered with Wood, but I saw no Plantations or Inhabitants; however Smokes were seen in many Places. Its south side was flat & more regular, and seemed indeed very beautifull; but we passed at too great a distance to distinguish any thing Particular.

Soon after we had Tacked at Noon we discovered the Appearance of two very good harbours in the land to the Westward; on which the Boats were hoisted out & sent to Examine that to Leward. There were several Hundreds of the Natives on the Shores viewing us, and several Canoes which ventured off a little way. They were all armed with Bows & Arrows & small Clubs, which they slung across their shoulders. They seemed to look at us & our Boats with Admiration but did not attempt to come near or meddle with them. After due Examination the Boats made the signal of there being a good Harbour and safe Enterance, on which we bore away for it and about 5 oClock Anchored in 20 fathoms, bottom sand and Rocks; being sheltered on all sides by the Land & reefs except about 5 or 6 Points to the Northward & that might be shut up by going farther in. We had not been long at Anchor before many of the Natives came round the Ship seemingly in a very friendly manner, but would sell nothing except now and then an Arrow, and I observed that every man had his Bow lying in the Canoe, ready bent and several Arrows beside it. Towards the Evening two or three came on board the Ship; but I was then bussy below & did not see them: they stayed about the ship till near 8 oClock & then went on Shore.

In the Morning several Canoes were round the Ship by Day light; but still refused to barter any thing whatever; and soon after several hundreds sworn off to her and came on Board, so that in a little Time the Decks & rigging were full from the topmast head to the Chains; but none had any Arms who came on board that I saw except one, who had a small neat Club slung at his back. They are universally a small and ordinary race of People, not quite but very near as dark as the Negros, and do something resemble them in their Countenances, although neither their Noses are remarkably flat or their Lips Thick. Their Hair also is quite short & curled like theirs, but not so soft and woolly. They go entirely Naked except the Penis for which they have a very fine Case, fringed; & a String to the end of it by which they tye it up to a sort of Belt or String that goes round their Wast so very tight that the shape of their Bodies is not much unlike that of an over-grown Pismire; but their limbs are well shaped & Clean made enough.

Most of them had a wild Boars Tooth, or some such like thing bent circular round their right wrist, and a round piece of wood with a hole through it on their left: the hole was so small that it would barely come over their hand. Some had very large Scabs or blotches on their Arms & Legs; but this was far from being general.

The People who kept the Boats along side had orders not to let any of the Natives come into them for fear of their stealing any thing: but one, more positive than the rest insisted on doing so, and when the Man pushed his Canoe of with the Boat hook, pushed a long Bamboo at him, and the Man, then, pushed the Boat hook at him; on which he very deliberately laid down the Bamboo, took up his Bow, and picking, very carefully an Arrow out of his Quiver applied it drew it up to the head & was taking Aime at the Man, and would, I make no doubt, have shot him dead if Capt Cook had not at that Instant discharged a load of small Shot into his face & shoulders, on which he droped his Bow a little, just wiped his hand across his face, and then took it up pointed it at the Capt but before he could get Aime to his mind one of the Officers fired another load into his Breast & Shoulders, on which he disisted & rowed off. Several Arrows were now shot over the Ship, and all the Natives who were on board her leaped into the sea & sworn on shore: and a Great Gun being fired amongst the Trees, which reechoing from all the Adjacent Woods & Mountains made a most terrible Report and frightened them Much; however no farther Mischief was done, and so ended Affair the first. The Man had shot his Arrow long before Capt Cook was ready with his Musquet had it not been for the Motion of his Canoe which hindered his taking Aime, and he several times turned round with much Anger in his looks to scold the Man who Managed her for not keeping her steady, by which time some of those in the ship had leaped overboard sworn to him, & catched hold of his Bow with intent to stop him; but he seemed resolute, shook them off & would, I belive certainly have executed his purpose had he not been fired at.

Their Canoes are hollowed out of one Tree, have no side-boards, and may be from 10 to 15 feet long & perhaps 15, 18 to 20 Inches wide: They are fitted with an out-rigger, as is usual in all the other Islands in the South Sea, and rise a little towards ea. end; but not so much forward as aft.

After Breakfast the Capt, Lieut and the Lieut of Marines with his Party went on shore With People to Cut wood: It was then about Low-Water, so that the Boats could not come near the Shore. The Capt leaped into the Water & walked towards the shore without Gun where several Hundreds of the Natives were Standing with Bows Arrows and other Weapons: but when they saw him advance alone without Arms, one who seemed to be a Principal Man amongst them gave his Bow & Arrows to another & came into the Water to Meet him, and spreads his Arms open as if to receive him; and when they met took the Capt by the hand & led him on shore.

[Page 335]
The Officers and Marines followed him armed and were drawn up on the Beach, and the Natives stood with their Bows & Arrows as a Counter-guard, all the time they were on Shore. The Capt made the Chief understand he wanted Wood, and he made signs for them to cut down what they had occasion for. At Noon they came on board again without having had the least squabble; but the Natives would not suffer any of our People to go of the Beach; but always stopped them when they offered it and pointed to them to go back to their Company.

July ye 22d. This Afternoon we had no Natives Came near the Ship: The Capt and some others went up the Sound & found the Ground & soundings every where good: in short that it was a most excellent Harbour. The Shores were in many places Swampy and covered with Mangroves; but they did not meet with any fresh Water. A Plan of it taken as well as I could from on board the ship is Annexed.— In the morning Weighed & got underway but it falling Calm we were scarce clear of the Harbour's Mouth at Noon.

As soon as they saw us get under way they became much freer & seemed willing to part from any thing even their Bows, of which they had hitherto been very Carefull. They seemed most pleased with Marbled Paper & some of them immediately converted it, before our Eyes into a Covering for the only part which is covered about them. In this traffac they exhibited remarkable proofs of their honesty & Integrity for the ship at first had good way through the Water, by which means several of them droped a stern after they had received what they had agreed for & before they had time to deliver their part of the Bargain in return, and it is almost incredible to conceive what efforts they made to Come up with us again & deliver it. One in particular did not get up before it was Calm & the thing had been forgot; he came up however a long side & held it up, several offered to buy it which he absolutely refused untill he saw the Person he had before sold it to to whome he gave it & when he offered to give him something else he refused to take it & shewed him the thing he had before received. . . .

The Bows used by these People are about 4 or 5 feet long, and formed of a stick split down the middle for the one stick to split makes two bows. They are very Elastic, & the spring very strong; but I know not of what materials they are made. The form of the Bow is not circular but like the small written S. The arrows are from three to four feet long , made of a reed & headed with a long slender piece of ebony Signum-Vitae or other hard wood, and some are topped with Bone worked perfectly round and taper with a point almost as fine as a Needle; but none of them that I saw were barbed. Most of these latter had their Points smered over with a sort of Gummy matter which we took to be poysonous. Indeed they seemed to Intimate as much by the cautions they gave to some who bought them. It should seem that they once were acquainted with the Art of poysoning; for the soldiers who were on duty yesterday on shore being thirsty & much distresed for water; their officer made it known to the Chief who met Capt Cook on the water, and he instantly sent for some & when it came he made the Person drink of it first showing them that he did so & then gave it to our People to drink.

There were seen here Cocoa-Nuts Bread fruit & one or two Oranges: We saw and heard plenty of Fowls & got one Pig which the chief made a Present off to the Capt. Several others were seen; but they would part with no more. I believe it to be a very plentiful Country could we have seen it. The Shores, as far as we have yet seen are flat for a considerable way in land, after which the Country rises gradually to a considerable height, and has a very beautiful appearance. The Natives told us they called it Mallicola, and that the Name of that Island on which the Volcano is is Ambrym, and the large Island which first opened off its south west End is Called Ahpe

The Coast as far as we could see northward tends away N. 29 W. from the Harbour’s Mouth: to the southward it rounds away gradually from about E.N.E. to S. 22°E. When a small Island begins to open off its South Point and at Noon the most Northerly land which could be seen bore N. 47°W. The North point of Ambrym N. 10 E. The small Island of the South Point mentioned above S. 11°E. & the Place we sailed from W. b. S. ½ S.

The Latitude of the Place where the Ship lay, which is very near the Mouth of the Harbour is 16°25 1/3’ S. and its Longit. by Mr. Kendall’s Watch 167°. 21’. 25” E. By a mean of 10 Lunar Observations, taken before we arrived here its Longit. is 167°. 56’ 3h.”. Two taken at the Place it is 168°. 12’. 37” and by a mean of 20 taken after leaving it 167°. 52’. 57” E. The mean of the Three is 167°. 52’. 57” E.

[Page 336]
Saturday July ye. 23d 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
At 4H .4 took Altitude when the small Isle set a noon bore S. 10 W. The West end of Amboyne N. 2 ¼ °W. and its Southern extreme N 80 °E. Longit by Distance of the D & Antares 168°.17 ½ E.

A little before 5 oclock the South Part of the Main as we had taken it to be began to separate & appear in the Islands. At 5 oclock the north point of the most northerly one, the S & S.E. Points of ye Main were in a line and bore S. 29 ½ deg W.

Weather
We were here st by a Curent to y So St. ward: we all along weathered what the Ship ran for.
Do Do

At ½ past 5 the Southern extream of ye above mentioned Island was in one with ye Southern extream of the one behind it and they bore S. 29 ½ deg W we had therefore run exactly the breadth of the first Isle in the direction of our course. The Northern extream of the further island came open of the fourth side of the first at S 36°W. The So Pt. of ye main came open of ye fourth side of the first isle at S 43 & W. The north point of a third Isle, which is that we saw at Noon came on with the So Point of ye main at S.52° and its south Point is so at S.61 W. There is a fourth Isle with lies between the 1st. & 3 °and is in one with the 2d at S 76 W. The 1.st 3d. & fourth are nearly in a line & lie S 37.E 2 N. 37 W. Land at a great distance opened of the South Point at S. 78. West .- At 5H.. 4.'5 the Extreams of Ahpe bore N. 87 E. & S 53 E. The Extreams of the other Island which opened off Ambym immediately after it N. 78 °E. & N. 66 °E. The Extreams of Ambrym N. 7°W. & N. 55 °E. & the most Northerly Part of Mallicola N. 45 W. –

At 8 A.M. the Extreams of Alopa N. 20 ½ °N. 58 ½ °E. Two small oness near it N. 50 °E. 2 N. 61 °E. The Extreams of a pretty large one south of these N. 68°E. & N. 71 °E. And the extreams of another, remarkable for three high Hills which are on it, S. 78°E. & S. 57 °E. There were several others which I did not now get. –

All our Mess ( the Gun-Room) and those of another have been much allarmed to Day at the effects of a Fish we had eaten that was caught in the Harbour: Not one who had eaten of it but who were seised with a Vomiting & Violent Pains in the Head & bones, attended with a numness in the Joints. The Surgeon & myself who had eaten little were but slightly affected affected, compared to some others. One Hog & several Dogs who had eaten the Intestines are also exceeding bad. A reef, in which are several Rocks above Water, lies off ye S. End of 3 hummoch Island.

Sunday July ye 24th 1774

Weather
Moderate Breeses & Cloudy
Do Do
Light Wind
Do Do

Remarks
We did not come near enough to Ahpso to know anything of its Fertillity &c. but its Shores seem bold, and the Land every where of a moderate height, and not very irregular. There are a prodgious Number of small ones which lie in the Neighbourhood of it. Three Hummock-Isle and these are all very high and steep too, their sides being almost perpindicular; but both their Tops & Sides are mostly covered with Trees, Bushes, &c. The Shores of 3 hummoch Isle are low and flat, rising with a very gentle Ascent to the foot of the Hills which are very steep and high especially two of them. On its N.W. side is a fine Bay into which we stood a considerable Distance. Its shores are every where covered with Trees & Plantations, and had a most beautiful appearance. We saw many People on the Shores. –

At 2H..12' the Extreams of 3 Hummock Island bore 530 °W & S 38°E. the Northern Extream of the other large Island N 40½ E. The western Extream of Ahpo N. 52 ½ °W Two small Islands between those N.33½ ° E and N. 29 ½ E. The two small Islands set at 8 o'lock this morning bore N. 23 ½ °W & N. 16 °E. & the latter was on with ye Eastern End of Ahpa. Four small Islands between 3 hummock Isle & the other large one bore N. 69 °E.: N. 85 ½ °E; N. 89 °E. & amp;& S. 80 ½ E.

Variation by Azim. 11 °.. 24' E.

Weather
Do Do

At 8 H..6' A.M. Took Altitudes When the Extreams of 3 Hummok Island bore S. 79 °W & N. 76 °W the Extreams of the other lay on N 28 °W. & N. 9 °W. and ye 2d. of the four small ones was on with this last. The first of the four bore N. 4 °W. & the other two were in one & bore N. 6 °E there are besides these two or three large Rocks. –

At ½ past 8 saw more land to the Southward. The Upturns of a large high Peak East of 3 hummoch Isle are in onN. 73°W. with its Southern Extream at N. 80 °W. & amp;

At 9H..40' took Alts. When ye Extreams of ye last mentioned Peak bore N. 47 ½ °W & N. 55 ½ W. A bole Peak S 34 °W & ye Monument S. 21 °W. At Noon the Monument bore N. 6 °E. The Extreams of ye Large Peak N 12 W & N. 17 W. The Dble Peak N. 39°W. The Extreams of an Island to ye Southward S. 34 ½ °W & W. g W. The middle of a 2d. S 4½ W [indecipherable] the Extreams of a third Isle S. 18 ½ °E. & 28 ½ °E.

[Page 337]
Monday July ye 25th 1774

Weather
Light Winds & fine Weahr.
Do

Remarks
The Gentlemen who are bad with Eating the Fish have been rather better to Day but yet complain of a severe Head-Ache & great Pain. Numbness & Weakness in their Limbs. For my own Part I fortunately ail scarce anything in the Daytime; but in the nights am troubled with a sort of stupid head-Ache, as if I had drunk too much Liquour the Evening before, and a strange3 kind of Numbness in my Legs & feet. –

At 4 H.. 0' Took Altitudes. When the Extreams of the first Island bore S. 6°W & S 29 2/3 W. The Extreams of the second S. 27 ½ °W and S. 13 °W. And the Extreams of the third S. 13 ½ ° E. The Dble Peak N . 28 ½ W, and the Monument N. 11 ° W. – Variation by Azimuth 9 °.. 3'6 1/3 E.

At 7 H ..3'o A.M took Altitudes when When the Monument bore N. 49 °E. & the two high Peaks of 3 Hummoch Isle N. 8 °E & N.1½ °E. The Extreams of the first of he neighbouring Isles S. 23 ½ °W & S 49 ½ °E. this last is the Point set

The Islands we are now off consist of One very large one; three of a moderate size & some small ones & Rocks all the Bearings hitherto taken are of the three middling ones. It is impossible to express the beautiful appearance which those Isles have from the Ship. The Shores are mostly low & flat, from whence they rise with a gradual ascent to a moderate Height, and every where seem covered with Plantations & fruit Trees; and as far as we can be able to Judge their fertility richly rewards the Planters Toil. –

Weather
Variat. By Azim 8 °.. 4'4 2/3 E
Light Wind Do
Do Do

Remarks
The West side of the first Island was on with ye West side of the Main or largest Island when bearing S. 34 W.

Two Points on ye East Side of ye 1st Island are in one at S. 45 °E. at which time the 2 d Island just began to appear off ye southernmost of them & was quite open when [indecipherable] S. 31 °E.

The So Point of ye first Island came open of ye No. P. of ye Main at S. 80 W. At Noon the Bluff Head of the first Island bore N 63 °W. & its other Extream S 88°W. The Extreams of the second Island West & N 72 °W. of the 3d Island N. 20 ½ °E and N. 29 ½ W. A round high Peak on it bore N. 10 °E. A small Island near the Main, from which a Reef appears to run both ways along the Coast, bore S 16 °W. - These Reefs and small Islands seem to promis very good shelter for ships in case of necessity. –

Tuesday, July ye 26th 1774

Weather
Little Wind & fine Weather

Remarks
Those who have been hurt by eating the Fish are to day all of them much worse: the Hog, and some of the Dogs are dead.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 2h. 15 the dble peak came open of yr. East point of the third Island when N. °W. The Monument N. 24½°W. The other Extream of the 3rd Island bore N. 48°W. & the Peak on it N. 43½W. The Extreams of the first Island N. 58°W. & N. 73°W. & yr. Is. 2nd Point of yr. Main S. 40°E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 4H. 30’ took Altitudes, when the Monument bore N. 26½°W. The dble Peak N. 32½°W. The Extreams of the 3rd Island N. 43½°W. & N. 76°E. and the latter was in a line with the Bluff head of the first Island. The Round Peak of yr. 3rd Isle bore N. 58°W. and the Extreams of the Main S. 25°E. and S. 86°W.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 5h. 45’ the Bluff Head on yr. first Island N. 68 W. the round Peak on yr. 3rd N. 56 W. the Monument N. 32°W. & the So. 2nd Point of the Main S. 10¼°E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
A.M. saw More Land to the Southward.
Variation by Azimuth 9°. 18¾’ E. Long by Dist. O & D 169°. 33¼’ & back.
At 7h. 42’ took Altitudes when the Bluff Head of yr. first Island bore N. 67½ W. The Peak on yr. 3rd. N. 62°W. the Extreams of the Main N. 72°W. & S. 80°W. The point set last Night S. 10½ °E. bore now S. 33 W. I think this is the same Point but am not certain.
The Extreams of the New Land S. 12°E. & S. 23½°E. This last is a very remarkable Hill like a Saddle.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
At noon the Extreams of the Southern Land S. & S. 16½ E.
The effects of the Fish less Painfull than yesterday, but the Pain and Numbness in yr. Legs, Thighs & Arms still continue.

[Page 338]
Wednesday July ye 27th 1774

Weather
Moderate wind & fine Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 4 h. 48’ took Alt. The extreams of the Land bearing S. 1°E. & S. 19½°W.
Variation by Azimuth 9°. 02¾‘ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Little Wind, do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 12°6’ E.
Longit. by Dist. O & D. 169. 31½ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 8h. 20’ took Altitudes when the Saddle Hill bore S. 47°W. and the Extreams of the Land S. 26°W. & S. 62½°W.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At Noon the Saddle Hill S. 38°W.

Thursday, July ye 28th 1774

Weather
Little Wind & fine Weather

Calm, do.

Remarks
At 4°36’ took Altitudes when the Saddle Hill bore S. 29°W.
Variation by Azimuth 12°. 12 2/3’ E.

Weather
Little Wind, do.

Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(10°. 7¾‘ E. Knight’s Compass
(8. 43 E. Ship’s Compass
(8. 47 E. Gregory’s Compass
Longit. by Dist. O & D 170°. 08’ E. The Saddle Hill S. 51½°W.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At noon the Saddle Hill S. 61°W.

[Page 339]
Friday, July ye 29th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & fine Weather

Do. do.

Remarks
At 4h. 34’ Took Altitudes: the Saddle Hill bearing S. 53½° W.
Saw more Land to the Southward.
Variation by Azimuth 12°. 19’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Little Wind & fine Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
At 7h. 5’ the Saddle Hill bore S. 46 W. A small Island that lies off it S. 49½°W. the Point of the Saddle Land S. 28½°W. the Extreams of the land S. 13½°W. And the new Land S. 1°E.
At 20h. 57’ took Altitudes when the Saddle Hill bore S. 41°W.

Weather
Do. do.

Saturday July ye 30th 1774

Weather
Calm & fine Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At ½ past 5 o’clock the Exts. of yr. Land S. 5°W. & S. 62 W.
Variation by Azimuth 12°. 26’ E. Gregory’s Compass.
Do. do. 12. 37½ E. Knight’s do.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Light Winds, do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(11°. 19¾‘ E. Gregory’s Compass
(9. 38½ E. Knight’s do.

Weather
Calm, do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O & D.
The Saddle Hill S. 12°W.
(168°. 45½’ E. Dollond’s Quadt.
(170. 41¼ E. Ramsdens do.
Longit. by Dist. O & D
(169°. 4 1/3 E. Ramsden’s Quadt.
(168. 38 E. Dollond’s do.

Weather
Do. do.

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Sunday July ye 31st 1774

Weather
Little Wind & fine Weather

Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(11°. 27 2/3‘ E. Knight’s Compass
(11. 26 1/3 E. Gregory’s Compass
Variation by Amplitude 11°. 03¾’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 12°. 11’ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O & D
(168°. 41 5/8’ E. Dollond’s Quadt.
(169. 31 7/8 E. Ramsden’s Quadt.

Weather
Moderate Wind, do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist O & D
(169. 43 E. Ramsden’s Quadt.
(169. 2 E. Dollonds Do.

Weather
Moderate Wind, Do.

Remarks
At Noon the Extreams of the land from S. 57°E. to S. 12°W. A Point North of the Saddle was on with yr. Peak of it and bore S. 53°E. The Small island S. 67°E. off shore 2 leagues.

Monday, August ye 1st 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & fair Wr.

Remarks
The Point on with the Saddle peak at Noon comes on with the Extream Point of the Saddle Land at S. 59°E. & on with the small Island at S. 77½°E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The above mentioned Point was shut in by another at N. 74°E. and it by a third at N. 68°E., the third by a fourth at N. 35°E. and this last by a fifth at N. 19°E. From yr. first point to the 2nd might be about 4½ miles, the others were at inconsiderable distances of a mile each at most.

Weather
Little Wind, Do.

Remarks
A point on the N.W. side of the island opened of the last of them at S. 7 S., the Distance between these two may be nearly 3 miles & between them is a pretty deep Bay in which we sought for Anchorage but the Soundings were not proper. Here we saw many people on the Shores, and some ran into the Water towards us & called to us. They had almost all of them spears and some Bows & arrows; but we were not near enough to distinguish whether or not they are the same sort of People with those of Mallicolo. We saw many cocoa nut Trees and Plantains etc. etc. The Shores were cliffy & high with a shingly Beach at the Bottom.

Weather
Calm, Do.

Remarks
On leaving this Bay another Point opened at S. 14 E.
At 4h. 26’ took Altitudes when the Two Points of the Bay bore N 8°E and N 17°E., the one about 2 & the other 5 miles Distant. The So. Extream of the island S. 15°E. dist. 5 or 6 miles.
Variation by Azim. In the Evening 11°. 38½’ E.
Variation by Azim. In the Morning 11°. 06½’ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist O & D
(168°. 50 1/8’ E. Dollond
(169. 24 7/8 E. Ramsden’s.

Weather
Little Wind, do.

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Tuesday August ye 2nd 1774

Weather
Light Winds & fair Weathr.
Do. do.

Remarks
At 4h. 49’ took Altitudes when the Extreams of the Island bore N.36°E. and S.12°E.
Variation by Azimuth 10°. 53 5/8’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
Variation by Amplitude 10°. 10½’ E.
Do. by Azimuth
(8. 8 )
(8. 49 2/3 ) E.
The Little Isle came on with the South point of yr. Main Land at S.20 E. & the Saddle Hill then bore S. 7°W. & ye. N Extream of yr. Land S. 79°W.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Longit by Dist. O & E
(169°. 10¼’ E. Dolland)
(169. 26¼ E. Ramsden)
The Saddle Hill S. 16°W. The Extream of the Island S. 80°W. & S. 16°E. & the Little Isle S. 3°E.
The Little Isle is on with the So. Point of the Saddle Land at S. 3°W.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At noon the Extreams S. 71½°W. & S. 18°E. The Little Isle S. 12½ E. and the Saddle Hill S. 6°W.

Wednesday, August ye 3rd 1774.

Weather
Little Wind & fine Weather
Do. do.

The fourth East Point of the Land & Saddle Hill in one when S. 32½ E. Two Points of ye Saddle Hill in one at S. 32½° E. & two Points to the Northward in one at N. 44°W. At ½ past 5 came too in 17 fathoms, black coarse sand. The little Island bearing N.E. ½ E. The most northerly land in sight N. 43°W. & the Point of the Saddle Hill N 70°E.

In the morning the Capt. with some of the Officers went in the Boats to search for a landing Place and see if there was any likelihood of getting Wood & Water. As they rowed along Shore the Natives every where followed them in great numbers seemingly both much surprized & pleased at our arrival amongst them. At length they found a place at land at, and the Natives received them seemingly with great kindness; brought them some Cocoa-Nuts, yams & fresh Water to drink; but they met with no other any where in the Bay & knew not where they fetched this from. When they were preparing to put off again the Natives seized one of the Boats & wanted to haul both it and the People up onto the Beach & ran away with two of the Oars. What further they would have done is not known had they not been fired on by which means two were killed dead on the spot; and two others lay for some time and then crawled up into the Bushes, how many more were wounded could not be known. On this they attacked Our People with Spears & Stones from behind the Bushes, which being covered with a Bank of Sand from the Boats they could not be dislodged but continued their attack as long as the Boats stayed & Capt. Cook thought it better to leave his Oars than run the risk of having any of his men killed. They use their Spears as missle Weapons & throw them with such force that one of them striking a Man on the Cheek, gathered up the Skin & flesh before it, passed through both folds of the cheek although the point was as blunt as ones finger. They have it seemed Bows & arrows, but trust chiefly to their spears which though most pitifull looking things to appearance, yet if we may judge from the only one which took effect are not to be contamned. One of their arrows hit the Master full on the Breast, it made a small impression on the skin but did not I believe draw blood: I suppose it must have been spent.

These People are, it seems stouter, better made & much more hansome than those of Mallicola; but it does not appear from their behaviour that they are half so upright & honourable in their dealings. The Country seemed almost every where cultivated, and the several Plantations formed in much in the same manner as those of Tonga-taba etc. We saw yams, Cocoa Nuts & Plantains, and we had reason to believe that the Country is very rich and fruitfull; and extreamly popular.

The Coast to the northward of the Hill which I have hitherto called the Saddle; but which since this affair Captn. Cook has named the Traitor’s Head is steep and Cliffy; but to the southward as far as we have yet seen, rather flat & the Country more regular rising by degrees to a moderate height, and the whole well cultivated & very beautiful. Some of the Northern Parts in land are considerably higher than the Traitor’s Head but on account of its singular Form & running so far out into the Sea, it is by much the most conspicuous on all Points where it can be seen for the Others. I make the Latitude of the Ship at anchor 18°. 43½’ S. Its Longit. by three Observations taken on the Spot 169°. 05’. 40” E. by 17 before we got thither 169°. 17’. 37” & by 5 taken after leaving it 169°. 30’. 58” E. The Mean of the Three is 169°. 18’. 05” E. Mr. Kendall’s Watch gave 168°. 40’ 19” E. About 9 oClock weighed & Worked out of the Bay.

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Thursday, August the 4th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & flyg. Clouds

Remarks
At 3h. 23’ Took Altitudes, when the little Island bore N. 33°W. The North End of the Traitor’s Head N. 68°W. Two Points on its South side down a deep Bay were in one & bore S. 78°W. And in a few minutes afterward the Eastern Extream of a distant Island came open off the southern Point of this, at S. 18°E. and its western Extream came open when they bore S. 1°W.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
A more southern Point of this Island came open of that which had hitherto appeared the most southern one at S. 48°W. and at half past 6 oClock this last Point bore S. 79½°W., that is West true.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 12 oClock hauled on a Wind & at 1 A.M. Tacked. At four oClock saw Land ahead. It was a flat low Island, which we must have passed pretty near to on the other Tack. Tacked again & at ½ past 6 oClock A.M. The Extreams of this Island bore N. 10°E. & N. 15°E. distant 10 or 12 Miles. The Traitor’s Head bore N. 33°W. An Island which I take to be that seen on Saturday morng. S. 4°E. bore now East, and the Extreams of the large Island seen last night were N. 75°W. & S. 5°E. On this Island is a Volcano, which was seen at night to throw out flames, and this morning vast columns of black smoke with a noise as loud as most Thunder I have heard.

Weather
Do. do.
Do., Cloudy

Remarks
A little before 8 an opening was discovered in the great Island a head which seemed to promise a good Harbour. Tacked & stood to Windward, hoisted out the Boats & the first Lieut. & Master went to sound & examine the Harbour, which they found pretty good, on which the Capt. stood in & came to an Anchor about half a mile within the Entrance & prepared to warp her farther in, in doing which we got a Ground on a Rock which has not been discovered, but as she did but just touch no damage ensued. Many of the Natives came about the Ship in Canoes & several hundreds stood on the Rocks looking at her all armed with Bows & Spears, but were very quiet yet.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. and flying Clouds

August ye 5th After dinner the Capt and Officer of Marines landed with the Party. There were vast Numbers of the Natives on the Beach all Armed with Spears, Bows & Arrows & Clubs, who drew close to our people as soon as they got on shore; and it appeared to me, for we saw every thing from the Ship as plain as if we had been with them, that they were irresolute & knew not whether to Attack them or not. They shewed the Capt a Pond of Water close to where they landed at which they filled three or four small Casks, and then Came on board. They carried no more Casks with them as this was intended only as a Coup d'Essai, and the Water Casks served as an Excuse. When our People reimbarked, the Natives gathered Close round the Boat & we then fully expected an Attack, and everything was ready for it on board; but they yet were too irresolute & seemed as though they had not had time to pre-concert a Scheme for so that this time the Boats all got safe on Board without a skirmish.

All night the flames from the Volcano were very visible over the hills. The Mouth seems not to be above 4 or 5 Miles from the Harbour, about West from it. In the Morning Many of the Natives Came again round the Ship in their Canoes. Amongst the rest one old Man who had the day before made many trips for Cocoa Nuts Plantains and Yams, continued to do the same now untill he was interrupted by the following Accident. A Man who had been very Insolent in brandishing his Club, striking the Ship & Committing other Acts of defiance, at length Offered it to the Capt for a Medall, or some such thing, but on receiving it refused to give his Club, and rowed away with it; and after repeatedly Calling & Making signs to him to bring it back the Capt fired a Charge of Small Shot at him which hit his face & breast; but notwithstanding this he still Continued to paddle away as fast as he Could & being now at a great Distance the Cap1 ordered One of the Wall-Pieces to be fired at him, which was done with such good Aime, although he was a quarter of a Mile from the ship, that the Ball struck not a Yard from him. Several others were fired at him untill he got on Shore & though none hit him yet every ball fell very near him even when near f of a Mile of, and caused so great a consternation and Astonishment in all the Rest that in an hour Afterwards the Abovementioned old Man, was despatched off to us with Green boughs & other Ensigns of Peace, and a present of a large Bundle of Sugar Canes, which was accepted, and a very Considerable present Made to him in return. The Capt at the same time endeavouring to make him understand why the Man was fired at, and that we wished they would throw away their Spears & Bows &c & be friends with us, in which Case we would hurt none of them. When he got on Shore they all gathered round him & he seemed in very earnest discourse for some time but to what purport or effect was impossible to know.

Soon after the Capt gave Orders for another trial to land, which now seemed a serious Affair, as I believe some thousands were on the Beach on each side of the Watering Place all Armed. The Ship was brought broadside too by means of a Spring, and all the 4 Pounders which could be mounted on that side were loaded & brought to bear on the Place where the Landing was intended to be made. When the Boats drew near the shore, the

[Page 343]
Capt made signs to them to draw back. The Old Man, our friend also was there & two others who endeavoured to make them do so but no purpose, on which a Musquet was fired over them which made some run; but one more Audacious than the rest set up his backside at them & claped his hand on it - this was not to be put up with a Musquet was fired at him & some others amongst the Croud who yet staid & the Officer on board thinking the battle general, gave orders to fire also; 5 four-pounders, some loaded with round, and others with Grape Shot, four or five Wall pieces, and two or three Swivils were fired from the Ship, which cleared the beach so that not a Man was to be seen in two Minutes time except the three old Men who had endeavoured to make them retire, & these never stirred, so confident were they that we would not hurt those who we thought our Friends. But what is most remarkable we had no reason to suppose that any Person was much hurt by all this firing, notwithstanding there were so many: and was a very happy Circumstance as it Answered our Purpose without. The People then landed, filled a Boat Load of Water & then returned on board.

August 6th. This Afternoon I went on shore with the Boats which went for Water, which happened as near as I could determine at 4h 48' and to look at the Place which was said to be Absolutely improper to establish a Post on; I did not see any reasons to be affraid of trusting my self on shore there with a proper Guard; but as I cannot be supposed a proper Judge of these Matters, It was my duty to submit to better Judgments & Contrive some means of getting at least the Rate of the Watch without staying on shore All Night. I did not Judge it safe to Carry the Watch backward & forwards every day for fear of Accidents, as we had to land in a surf on a flat shore, and, since the Misfortune which happened to my Pocket Watch1 it did not seem easy to do it without. There was no way but by Signals; & those must go through three hands beside my own, which must render the Method Precarious, but it was better than none, and I resolved to make use of it only with this precaution to venture the Watch on Shore the first & last Day, & be as carefull as possible in the others; being certain of one steady hand to assist me always in it.

When we got on Shore there was not one Native to be seen; but in about an hours time they began to make their Appearance on the Beach & by degrees drew nearer; but there was not one who brought a Weapon of any sort; but all left them stuck up at a distance, and we endeavoured all in our power to convince them how happy we were at it & how little occasions they had for them on our Account; and before we went on board a sort of Intimacy & dependance on each other began to come on. Besides filling a Boat Load of Water, the Sean was hauled with great good luck several times & we encouraged them to run amongst & help us and at ye same time gave them some fish which pleased them much but at the same time the Guard was not remitted in the least; We brought on board about 20 dozen of fine fish, mostly Mullet, which furnished the Whole ship's Company with a fresh Meal.

The Water is taken out of a Pond, at the back of the Beach; it is very high Coloured but exceeding frish and sweet. The Country round the Harbour is covered with Cocoa-Nut Trees full of fruit, of which the Natives seemed to make no Account for if we only pointed to them one of them would run up like a squirrel, and clear the tree in an Instant whilst others would gather & throw them to us, without expecting any thing for them for they seem not to have the least notion of Buying & selling neither were they fond of, or indeed willing to touch any thing we had.

All beyond the Beach, which in some places might be about 40, in others not more than Ten Yards broad the Country seems one entire forrest of low Trees and Bushes over-grown with a sort of vine which makes it almost impenetrable except by some narrow tracks, or Avenues, made by the Natives. I went up one of those about a ¼ of a Mile & saw in two or three Places patches of Plantain Trees which seemed to grow wild but not one House or Native. However as the Path was very narrow & crooked I did not chuse to go far for fear of surprize.

In the Morning I took the Watch & Astron. Quadt on shore & got Altitudes: I moreover made many trials of the Dip of the Needle & found that its south end dipped 44°51’. I changed the Poles of the Needle between every 4 or 6 trials. - By taking equal Altitudes I found that the Low-Water was at 11h 42' and the Latitude by the dble Alt of the Sun, taken with Hadley's Quadt from a Quicksilver Horizon was 19°32’18”S.

7th. In the Afternoon finished my Observations of Equal Altitudes & was fortunate enough to get the whole 6 Wires. The time of high-water, as near as I could Estimate, for the Guard did not stay for me to take Equal Altitudes, was at 5h. 50’ & the water flowed 3 feet. It cannot, I think, be wrong much above an Inch as the swell of the surf was not above 4 Inches. We had many of the Natives round us all day, some with Arms, others without; but they were in general very quiet and good natured, giving us any thing they had except their Arms, which they refused to part with but for ours, which I thought but reasonable. In the Evening the Sean was again hauled but with very indifferent fortune as we did not catch above 5 Dozen of Fish & most of them small. All the Morning it was Cloudy so that I got no Altitudes nor the Meridian Altitude at Noon.

8. This Evening the Sean was hauled again; but with less Success than Yesterday. In the Morning it was very fine & Clear and I got Altitude for the Time by the Watch and also the double Alt. of the Sun on the Meridian which gave the Latitude 19°.32’.33”S.
Yesterday and to day the Volcano has ceased to make that horid noise it used to do; but yet vomits forth vast quantities of black Smoke, and in the Night flames of Fire are sometimes seen. Many pieces of Pumice stone have been found in different parts of ye harbour; but none have been seen to fall since we came in; nor have we been able to see any thing of the kind come out of it with the smoke. One of the Natives came off with us, and dined on board the Ship.

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9th. This Afternoon I got but two wires of the Corresponding Altitudes & those were rendered useless by some Mistake Committed on board the Ship in the Times by the Watch, so that this Day's Labour, and it is not a little, is entirely thrown away. In the Evening hauled the Sean three times and caught three sea Spiders, a small Bream & a little sting-Ray. Some who went to get Ballast to day scalded their fingers in a stream of Water which bubbled up amongst the stones they were gathering to carry on board the Ship.

In the Morning the Sean was hauled again and they caught about a dozen fine Mullets; but this & some other things hindered me from getting on shore till near half past ten oClock, and of course the Observations of to day cannot be much depended on. This way of going to work is very inconvenient as my whole time is taken up in trying to get a few Equal Altitudes since there is no getting on board again for several hours after I have done, & have no way of spending my time but in sauntering too & from on the Beach for I dare not go inland on account of the Natives.- It has also another bad tendency, for having nothing else to do, I write down all the Nonsense that comes in my head & thereby swell my Journal, as Falstaff did his Belly, out of all reasonable Compass.

10th. It came on Cloudy at Noon, so that I got no more than three Wires of the corresponding Altitudes & those gave the Gain of the Watch 10’81’. After I had done Observing, as I could not get on board, and having long had a great desire to make a short Excursion inland, I prevailed on two of the Officers to accompany me, so taking our Guns we struck into a Path which seemed to lead right across the point of the Island, and had not gone a quarter of a Mile before we came to some of their Plantations, through which we walked near half a Mile before we came to any of their Houses. These Plantations consisted of Yams & Tarro (an excellent Root met with at Otahitee & all the Society Islands) and several other sorts of Vegetables which we were utter strangers to. There were also great numbers of Plantain Trees almost all of which had fruit on in one state or other: There were also Cocoa Nut, Fig & Nectrine Trees all with fruit on, & many others with which we were not acquainted. The Ground appropriated to the Roots was formed into Beds as is usual in England & the Mold was very rich & fine as if it had been sifted through a sive. The Yams were planted in a large, high, round heap of very fine Earth, at one End of the rectangular Bed which appertained to them along each side of which were reeds stuck up and others laid across from those for the Plants which are of the Viny kind to run along and Cling to. At the End of this range of Plantation we came to a Place, where there was no bramble or under-wood; but many very high spreading Trees under which was a sort of Village Consisting of about 20 houses in which there were a prodigious number of Inhabitants, both men & women. The Houses are about 10 Yards long & three broad & mostly built in form of a semi Cylinder, by setting the Ends of sticks in the Ground & bending them together & tying them at the Top; but there were some built like the roof of an English house without any Walls: both sorts are thatchd with Palm-tree Leaves. We saw many exceeding fine Hogs & plenty of Fowls feeding about the Houses so that those People seem to abound in every thing that is need-full for life. They seemed a little alarmed at our first Coming on them so suddenly; but when they saw we were so few, made signs of friendship & were carfull not to meddle or come near any thing, they seemed much pleased & were extreamly civil & obliging. We told them we wanted to go to the farther side of the Island & look out for more Land, and an old man stepping out from amongst the rest made signs for us to follow him & led us the way quite across the Island, several others followed us but not one brought a weapon of any sort along with him. When we got to the farther side we saw two Islands but I believe there are four because they gave us four Names & pointed different Ways they called the two I saw Irroname & Amatum the other two Names were Etonga & Fotona. Irroname is, I think, the same which we saw to the Eastward the Morning we came into the Harbour, but I could not be certain as I had no Compass; if it be not, that we saw then is called Fotona. Having satisfied our Curiosity here, we returned with our Guides, the Old Man still leading the Way, and answering such questions as we put to him in the best manner he could. Indeed they were all very civil & obliging Answers and shewing us every thing they could, and were very ready to get us specimens of any Plant, Tree or fruit we passed by untill we came back to the Village, where our old Gentleman stoped and a young one came on with us and shewed us a much shorter track down to the Beach than that we went by, and I returned exceedingly delighted with my Afternoon's Excursion.

In the Morning I got on shore something earlier than usual & took two sets of equal Altitudes. While I was observing some of the Guard Called out the Volcano! The Volcano; and turning round I saw a prodigeous Column of black smoke, Earth & large Stones rising up into the Air to an amazing height, and presently after heard an Explosion greater, I think than any Clap of Thunder I can remember. There were several Explosions after this, but none so large; nor did I afterwards see it emitt any thing but smoke.

11th. Got Corresponding Altitudes at 10 Wires; but on computing them found they made the Watch's Gain since Yesterday, almost 20", whereas yesterday's with the first made not quite 11" and of Course there must be a great error in some of them, as the Watch never yet varied half that quantity from one day to another. Indeed I begin to despair of doing any thing to the Purpose here, and yet am so great a slave to it that I have scarce time to eat.

In the Morning it was Cloudy till near 10 o'Clock so that I could get no Altitudes before that time and soon after came on a Shower of Mire, I can call it nothing Else, as it was Compounded of Water Sand Earth, and some other matter like small particles of Asbestos. I make little doubt but it came from the Volcano although Wind blew now directly from the Opposite Quarter & from the Sea; Moreover I dare say these Sort of Showers are not unfrequent here as all the Trees, Bushes Plants &c are covered with the same Matter.

[Page 345]
12th. The same dissagreeable kind of Shower continued almost without intermission the Whole Afternoon; only the Matter fell dry. I collected a quantity of it which fell into My Quadt Case & on the head of the Cask which I used for a Quadt Stand & find by comparing it therewith that it is the same Matter which Composed the Beach all round the Harbour. It was with the utmost Pain & difficulty that I got 3 wires of the Equal Altitudes on this Account, and thought I had entirely lost my Eyes in the Evening with attempting to get the Dist. of the Moon & Antares because the Star was so near the Zenith. The Sean was hauld this Evening & we caught a considerable quantity of Fish.

In the Morning it was Cloudy, yet I made a shift to get 10 Wires, out of two or three sets of Altits. By conversing with some of the Natives on the Beach I learned that the name;of the small Island which lies of the Harbour's Mouth is Immer, and that of the Island where we Anchored a day or two before we came in here is Irramango. I believe that I forgot to mention that the Name of this we are now at is Tanna.

13. Cloudy all the Afternoon so that nothing could be done. And as I could neither leave the Beach were my Instruments were nor get on board the time was wearysome enough, for Amusement, I got some of the Natives to throw their spears at two stakes which had been driven down to fasten the Boats too. One of them hit a Stake which was about 6 Inches broad & 20 high several times. This Stake was of soft rotten wood about 3 Inches thick and the Spears went quite through it several times; he stood at 11 & 12 Yards from it; beyond which none of them choose to stand; nor could they throw with any great aime at much longer distances; although when they throw only for distance they can throw them 50 or 60 Yards with great force. The abovementioned Person threw with much the best Aime; others threw several times (one 7 or 8) and hit the Stake but once. However, at the distance of 8 or 12 Yards they seemed all of them Certain of hitting a Man's Body. The other stake was of white Pine: It was a piece of a Studding sail Boom & perfectly sound: those spears which struck it full went into it about an Inch. I got one man to shoot Arrows at a Cocoa nut which I set up on a stick at about 8 Yards distance: he shot four or 5 times but never hit it and came but once within the Compass of a Moderate sized Man. It is probable he might be a bad shooter, since one of them, I am told, shot a small fish swiming in the Water, or possibly this last might be mere Chance. I have been more particular on this head as we may hereby form some estimation what Execution they can do with their Weapons. I measured all the distances, so that there can be no deception on that head.

In throwing their Spears they use a short stiff String platted of Rushes, or some such thing, which at one end has a large Knot, and at the other a small Noose which goes onto the fore finger. They take a turn round that part of the Spear where it is nearly on an Equipoise, bringing the noose End over the Knot, which when drawn tight by the finger jambs the Knot against the Spear, and thereby holds it fast. They hold the Spear between the Thumb and the remaining fingers, which serve only to give it direction the Velocity or force being communicated to it by the string & forefinger, the former, on account of its stiffness, imjambing & flying off from the Spear as it becomes slack, which will be the instant there is no more occasion for it, viz. when the velocity of the Spear becomes greater than that of the hand. This Evening the Volcano flamed out more than usual.

In the Morning it was cloudy with drizzling rain so that no Observations could be got, and having long had a desire & probably might never have another opportunity I embraced this of going up the Mountain towards the Volcano, in Company with several Others, all imagining it not to be above 4 Miles off; but after we had climbed Hill after Hill, and gone near that distance from the Ship, we did not find ourselves in a jot better situation for viewing it, but were to appearance as far off as at first setting out. Not above half a Mile from the Shore, on the side of the hill next ye Bay are several places where smoke issues from Cracks & Fissures in the Earth, and which we had hitherto taken for fires made by the Natives. These must, I am now convinced, be at least 6 or 7 Miles from the Place where the Principal Appearance is, and there are vast tracks of Plantations, and Many Villages between them. The Ground where these Smoking Places are rised up like a Mole-Hill of two or three Yards diameter. The Earth is a bluish Clay, soft & wet, as if with the steam of boiling water, and crusted over on the outside with a Substance in tast like Allum, and in many places are little heaps of real Sulphur, of which those places smell very strong to a considerable distance. The Trees Shrubs & herbage are exceeding fresh, green & flourishing close to the place where the Smoke rises, and some low fig-trees, loaded with green fruit hung directly over one of them yet seemed exceeding fine and healthy. I dug a hole in one of those Places in which I put a Thermometer of Fahrenheits construction made by Mr Ramsden & Covered the Bulb for some depth with the Earth that I dug out, and in one Minute it rose to 210°. It remained in 2 ½’ but did not rise higher; and I could have wished it might have stood longer; but as the Thermometer was the property of another Person who did not chuse it should, & having none of my own which go high enough I was obliged to be content with this Experiment, which I do not think quite satisfactory, because I know by experience, that a Thermometer carried into a greater degree of heat will rise at first higher than its natural State and after some time fall to it, and it may be, that in such extream degrees of Heat as this was, the Aberration I am speaking of may be considerable. Below this place, and close to the Shore I am told there is a spring so hot as to boil Perriwinkles, which I intend to try with a Thermometer the first Opportunity I have of landing there for there is no going to it by land.

We found the Natives here far less friendly than on the other side of the Harbour, where I made my former Excursion. Here they opposed our proceeding farther with their spears, Bows & slings, all ready Charged; and although we got past them one or twice yet they slipped through bye-ways and formed a-head of us again, and we found at last that we must either desist or come to blows with them, which we thought no-ways Justifiable as our Errand was little more than shere Curiosity. It is but justice to add that when they found we had given up the Point, and were returning in earnest they called to us to stop & brought us Sugar Canes and Cocoa-nuts; and a bunch or two of Plantains, and then made signs to us to go away, which we did.
But the greatest satisfaction this Ramble gave me was in an irrefragable Proof of the fallacy of a Notion some had taken into their heads that the Natives of this Island were sodomites. This opinion they grounded on one

[Page 346]
of the Natives endeavouring to entice certain of our People into the Woods for a purpose I need not mention. I had at first presumed to undertake their defence, and argued that they might possibly mistake those Persons for Women, as had been the Case with some of our Own People, and particularly one at Otahitee where we are much better acquainted than those people can be supposed to be with us: but there are People who, either through Custom, Education, or something worse, are not capable of defending the Whims they Adopt otherwise than by It is so.- I know it. and falling into a violent passion because their word is not taken in Cases where no man can give his word with certainty: and some of this Cast have asserted, and I make no doubt written down as Dogberry says that most of the People we have lately been among are Sodomites, or Ganibals, or both, in which last predicament stand the poor Souls we are now with. It hapened moreover unfortunately for the retailers of those Opinions that no person had been attempted who had not either a softness in his features, or whose employment it was to Carry bundles of one kind or other which is the Office of their own Women, and of this sort was the Instance I am going to relate. The Man who carried Mr Forsters Plant Bag had, I was told, been two or three times attemped, and he happening to go into the Bushes on some occasion or other whilst we were set down drinking our Cocoa-nuts &c. I pointed it out to the Natives who sat round us, with a sort of sly look & significant action at the same time, on which two of them Jump'd up and were following him with great glee; but some of our Party bursting out into a laugh, those who were by (suspecting it I suppose) called out Erramange! Erramange! (Its a Man! Its a Man!) on which the others returned, very much abashed on the Occasion, and the mistake was so palpable that every one present, and there were some of the most positive on ye other side of the question, were obliged to acknowledge that they had taken him for a woman, and had not the least notion of executing their purpose, after they found it otherwise.

14th. Capt Cook being desirous of seeing the Place where the Natives dwell who are so friendly I went with him to the Village, where I began now to have some little Acquaintance. Some of my old Friends met us at the Enterance & seemed much pleased at our Coming. They shewed us all round their little Village which is a perfect Paradise in the rural tast, and at every house almost we were desired to sit down, and Victualls of several sorts brought us to Eat & Cocoa-Nuts to drink, and when we had staid with them as long as we thought proper, two or three were sent along with us down to the Beach to carry some fruit they had pulled for us, a Yam or two & some sugar Cane. In the Morning it was Cloudy; but I got a few Wires of the Equal Altitudes & afterwards employed my self in taking a draught of the Harbour; in doing of which I found at one Corner, under the Hill where the Smoking Spots are a stream of Water running out of the Rock which seemed to me nearly as hot as boiling Water; but having with me no thermometer I could not then determine its Absolute heat.

15th This Afternoon it came pretty Clear, so that I was Employed the whole Afternoon and Evening about my Observations. In the Morning I borrowed a Thermometer of Capt Cook as I had none Graduated high enough intending after I had got the morning Altitudes, to try the heat of the Spring I saw yesterday; but got it broke so strangely in carrying out of the boat that I was not less surprized at the Manner, than vexed at the Matter of the Misfortune. - This Morning the Chief of the Island, came down to see us. He was a very old Man of the most open Countenance that I have seen amongst them, unless we except that of the old Man who so early became our friend and benefactor; but then his was a merry open Countenance, which seemed as it could laugh at all the Pomps and Vanities of this World, whereas this Man's was rather solemn & beneign. He was not distinguished from the rest by any thing that I saw unless it was a broad red & white Checkered Belt that he wore round his Wast. The material & manufacture of which seemed the same as those of the Otahitee Cloth. His name was Geogy, and his Title Areki.

16th. The Afternoon & Evening were very Cloudy and so hot that the Thermometer stood at 83 a little after sun-set. The Morning also was very cloudy untill near 9 oClock, when it began to clear up & Continued fine untill Noon.

17th. This Afternoon Capt Cook tried with a Fahrenheits' Thermometer the heat of the Spring which rises on the Shore opposite the Ship and found that the Thermometer rose to 191. 1 could not now go with him; but his Account of the Matter was so distinct that I have no doubt of the experiment.

In the Morning while I was observing the Altitudes Capt Cook tried the Hot-Spring, which rises opposite the Ship again; but the Thermometer rose no higher than 187°. These Experiments were made by digging a small into which the water ran, and immersing the Thermometer in it; but it occurred to me that this method is exceptionable, for the water at the Bottom of the Hole where the Bulb of the Thermometer lies will grow Cold, and the hot water as it comes out of the Spring only run over the Top of it. I therefore proposed that in trying that we were then going to at the corner of the Beach, the Thermometer might be laid along in the Stream, with but a small Elevation above the Plane of the horizon, with its bulb close to the hole in the Rock where the Water Issues & but just below the surface of the stream: It was necessary the Stem of the Instrument should be a little elevated to be sure the Mercury did not run along it by means of its gravity. This method was now used & the Thermometer had not been in quite 2 Minutes before it rose to 202 ½ . It staid in 6 or 7 Minutes & fell only half a degree. I think it is not possible to have a fairer Trial than this was.

I estimated the time of Low-Water this Morning at three quarters past Eight o'Clock.

[Page 347]
18th. The time of high Water this Afternoon was at 2h55', as determined by equal Altitudes of the Water, and it rose 3 feet & one Inch, which is higher by an Inch than on the Day of the Change. By estimation the Time of low-water in the morning was at half past 9 o'Clock, after getting of which, and the Altitudes, an Opportunity offering I went on board the Ship to make some Calculations and presently after one of the Natives was Shot by a Centinal for drawing his bow at him. he had drawn it, it seems once before; but not liking the Arrow he put it bye & chose another & as he was drawing it the Man fired & shot him through the left Elbow Joint into that side, among the Ribs, and the Ball broke one of them in its Passage. He walked a little way, and then Staggering Side-ways fell into the Water, whence he was drawn by some of his Country men & carried off a little way. The Surgeon was sent for Instantly, but the Man was dead before he could well examine him. The Circumstances relating to the Wound I had from Mr Pattin on his return; the rest from Mr Whitehouse, one of the Mates who was present at the time it happened.

19th. By equal altitudes the Time of High water was at 3h50', and it flowed 3 feet 5 Inches. This Evening I met with a young Fellow (It was he who dined on board the Ship) who could throw a Spear with exceeding good Aime & great velocity 20 Yards. I believe he could be morally certain of hitting a Man at that distance, and miss him but very seldom at 30 Yards, but it did not appear to me that any great danger was to be apprehended by us who are cloathed in the latter Case, unless it happened to be attended with some accidental Circumstances. He could throw it 60 or 70 Yards when he attempted to throw as far as possible, and once threw it over a Cocoa nut Tree which could not I think be less than 15 or 16 Yards high, and at last threw it so far into one of die Nuts which were on the top of that tree that it hung there. It was a very light spear that he used on this Occasion. I saw no other who could throw a Spear so well as this. He found fault with me, in Shooting with a Bow & Arrow for drawing the Bow too much, and I observe they draw it but little when they shoot at a Mark; but they throw their Spears with all their Might, let the dist. be what it will.

I must confess I have been often lead to think the Feats which Homer represents his heros as performing with their Spears A little too much of the Marvelous to be admitted into an Heroic Poem, I mean when confined within the straight Stays of Aristotie; nay even so great an Advocate for him as Mr Pope acknowledges them to be surprizing. But since I have seen what these People can do with their wooden ones; and them badly pointed and not of a very hard nature either, I have not the least exception to any one Passage in that Great Poet on this Account. But if I can see fewer exceptions I can find an infinite number more beauties in him as he has I think scarce an Action circumstance or discription of any kind whatever relating to a Spear, which I have not seen & recognized amongst these People as their whirling motion & whistling noise as they fly. Their quivering motion as they Stick in the Ground when they faU. Their meditating their aim when they are going to throw & their shaking them in their Hand as they go along &c &c.

As to the Persons of these People they are in general pretty well made, but I think rather low, very brisk & Active as indeed most Indians are, probably from the Joints not being Cramped, or their bodies cumbered with Cloaths.

Their hair is chiefly brown, and curled but not short, and they seperate it into small locks & bind, or wold them round with the rind of a long slender plant or Shrub down to within about an Inch of its end, and as the hair grows they continue the binding so that it appears like a parcel of small Strings hanging down from the Crowns of their heads: They have brown Eyes, are very dark Complexioned; but cannot be called black nor have they the least characteristic of the Negro about them. The men go entirely naked except the Penis which they wrap up in a bundle of leaves or Grass and stick the End of this Covering, which they sometimes make half a yard, or two feet long into a String or belt that goes round them. The Women wear their hair Cut short, which is an universal fashion with that Sex throughout all the South Seas, except at the Islands of Tonga Tabu, Annamocka &c, and have all a kind of Pettycoat made of flags or some such thing that reaches below their knees, except such as are not arrived at the Age of puberty, and who have many of them only a few flags hanging down before like an Apron.

I have described their habitations already; but to what I have said of their plantations may be added that their whole time is employed about them, or at least between that labour & the Exercise of their Arms in which they are exceeding dexterous: Every Man is a Warrior, and after we became acquainted, seemed to take great pleasure in shewing us dieir skill in that Art; but more especially in the use of their spears in which they seem to place their principal dependance. They have some Canoes large enough, perhaps 30 feet long, two broad and three deep: they carry a sort of latine sail like the smaller sort at Tongatabu &c & have out riggers like them; but the Workmanship is very rude when compared with those of that truly ingenious People. The Bottoms of them are mostly of one Piece, and the boards which compose their sides are sewed on with bandage as they are done at Otahitee &c; but the Joint is covered on the outside by a thin battan, champhered off at the edges, over which Strings pass.

The fruits of this Island are Cocoa Nuts, Plantains, Breadfruit, Oranges, Figs, Nectrines, Wild nutmegs and many others whos Names I know not. Their Roots are Yams, the largest by far that I ever saw, Tarra Root & a sort of Potato, and they have great Plenty of large Sugar Canes. Fowls & Hogs are in abundance; but they would part with none. Indeed we had nothing which they seemed to place any Value on, and they were even afraid to touch any thing that belonged to us, so that there was no great danger of their thieving. In the morning we weighed & sailed out of the Harbour without any Accident happening, although the Passage in & out is I believe very intricate & dangerous full of Rocks and Shoals, and has an ugly bar across which causes a great swell and in bad weather is in some places near breaking. As soon as we were out the Ship was brought too the Boats Hoisted in and at 11 am made Sail when the Extreams of Tanna bore N. 50 W. 6 Lea. and S 33° E. The Harbour S. 29°E. In the Middle of Immer N. 22. E. We ran [indecipherable] 4 Miles to noon and then the Extreams of Tanna were N. 66 W. & S. 9 W. the Harbour S. 16° W. The Island [indecipherable] S. 87 E. and Immer N.5 E.

I found that Mr. Kendall’s watch was gaining here 13”.928, and gave the Longit. on O August ye 7th at Noon 168°. 52’. 88” which I propose to keep on, and only change the rate of the Watch from that Day. The latit. by a mean of dble. Alts of the sun on 4th Meridn. is 19°.32’.23½” S. By 20 Lunar Observations taken before we came here the Longit. is 169°. 37’. 35”. By 5 at the Place it is 169°. 48’. 48” & by 20 after leaving it it is 169°. 47’. 22½”. The Mean of the Three is 169°. 44’. 35” E. The [indecipherable] . The Needle was 7°. 14 1/5’ E. & the Dip of its South End 45°. 02 1/5’.

[Page 348]

Saturday August ye 20th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
At 2 oClock the Middle of Immer bore N. 52°W.
At 5h. 36’ Inaname or Fotons bore S. 59°E. & the Extreams of Tanna S. 46°W. and S. 77°W.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 6h. 44’ Fotons S. 45½ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 10 oClock Fotons or Innaname S. b. E. ¼ E.

Weather
Do. do.

Moderate Wind Do.

Rearks
At 18h. 57’ Fotons bore S.32 E.
At 19h. 24½ Took Altitudes when it bore S.45°E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At Noon the Traitor’s Head bore N. 46°W. The Extreams of Tanna N. 76°W. & S. 76½°W. The Harbour S. 82°W. Fotons or Innaname N. 74°E. and the Extreams of Enaturn S. 6¼°E. & S. 18°E.

Sunday August ye 21st 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & flyg. Clouds

Remarks
At 2h. 16’ the two Points which bound the N.E. side of Tanna were in one and bore N. 52°W. and the Extreams of Enaturn were S. 36 E. & S. 22°E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Two points on the East Side of Tanna bore N.10°W. and two points on the south side were in one at N. 58°W.
At 5H. 3’ A Point opened off the latter of these at N. 45°W.
At 5H. 52’ Another Point opened off this last at N. 30 W.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 3 oClock this last Point bore N. 23°E.
And at 9h. 45’ the Northern Extream of Tanna bore N. 59 E.
Long. by D. & Antous at 5h. 4’ was 170°. 05¼’ E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
At 18 h. 18’ The Extreams of Enamanga S. 65°E. & N. 48°E.
Variation by Azimuth
(10°. 25¾’ ) E.
(10. 20 5/6)

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 19h. 19’ took Altitudes when the Extreams Enamanga bore S. 59°E. and N. 76°E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At Noon the Traitor’s Head S. 66°E.

[Page 349]
Monday August ye 22nd 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Saw the beautiful large Island we were off July ye 25th & 26th being N.E. At 4H. 00' took Altitudes when the south end of the Island bore N. 32°E. and the Western Extream N. 55°W.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 5H. 36' the South Point bore N. 76°E.
At 5.54 the Point of an Island or Peninsular on ye West side bore N. 22 W.
At 6.20 the said Island bore N. 40°E. & and opening which separated it from a second N. 48°E. A small Isle lies in, or before this Opening. The other extream of ye 2nd Isle bore N. 70 E. And the appearance of a third Island N. 80°E. dist. 3 or 4 Leagues.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 7H. 28' a small Island opened when N. 11°W. of the West point of the Land & a few minutes afterwards shut in again.

Weather
Brisk Wind do.

Remarks
The West side of this Island does not appear at all inferior to the Eastern one either in fertility or beauty. It seems to be every where in a high state of cultivation. Nor is there any reason to fear but that within the above mentioned Islands there are exceeding good & convenient harbours. In short so far as may be judged from what we have seen from the ship this is one of the most beautiful & desirable Islands we have yet seen in the South Seas.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 6H. 15' A.M. the south Point of Mallicolo bore N. 4°E. & 3 Hummock Isles S. 88°E. At 7H. 58' took alts. the Extreams of Mallicolo N. 36°E. & N. 35°W. and at the same time another Point was opening off this last.
Variat. by Azim. 20°9¼' E.
At 8H. 45' the So. Pt. of Mallicolo N. 56°E. A point which appeared like an Island N. 27 E. Another Point on ye Main N. 20 E. An Island N. 12°E.
The above Point on ye Main in one with yr. Eastern Island at N.E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The South Point of ye Westerly Island in one with ye sd.. Pt. at N. 58°E. & on with the South Point of Mallicolo at N. 68°W. The bearg. on ye 23rd of July in ye evening must therefore have been of some of ye Island hills; those Points being probably too low to be seen so far.
9H. 45' the last mentioned Isle clear of yr. Main at S. 85°E. At 10H. 45' opened a deep Bay round ye So. Wt. Point which makes that Pt. a long narrow Peninsular & not an Island as it first appeared to be. A small Isle lies in the mouth of ye Bay.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At Noon The So. Wt. Point of Mallicolo S. 35°E. No. Pt. of ye deep Bay S. 52°E. A small Isle which forms another Bay N. 77°E. A pretty deep Bay to the north is N. 15°W. & ye Western extream of the Land N. 43°W.

Tuesday, August ye 23rd 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
When off the south-west Point we saw many of the Natives on different parts of the shore some of which attempted to come off to us but we went at too great a rate for them to overtake us. The Shores there abouts are narrow Sandy Beaches, and the land behind them of a moderate height and does not seem a jot less beautiful or the Verdure less luxuriant than on that part where we anchored July ye 21st.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 2H. 5' the bight, or Bay bore N. 56°E. At 2H. 15' a low Point opened off the most westerly one at noon when N. 38½°W. At 4H. 00' another Point opened off the low one at N. 4°W.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 5H. 30' the Extreams of Mallicolo S. 20½°E. and N. 12°E. The south west Point of M. Bougainvilles Northern Land N. 52°W. At 5H. 45' another Point on Mallicolo opened to the Northward at N. 33°E.
The north-west parts of Mallicolo are pretty bold shores, the Land of a moderate height, and very beautiful; but not so well covered with Wood as the Eastern & southern sides were. The Soil appears to us from ye ship to be a Red kind of Clay, or soft Loam. All down this side are many little Creeks & small Coves in which a Ship might probably take Shelter in case of necessity.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
All night stood too & from & were at Daylight in the Straights of Mr. Bougainville at which time the Western Point of the Northern Land, which now appeared to be a group of Islands bore N. 80 W. & the Extreams of Mallicolo S. 40°W. & S. 53°E.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.

[Page 350]
Wednesday August ye 24th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
At 4H. 43' took Altitudes when the North Point of the Land in sight bore N. 50°W. The Island set N. 22½ W. at Noon N. 35°W. Another Island which lies off the mouth of a Bay or Sound N. 78½°W. A third Island between those N. 56½°W. & the southernmost Point of Land in sight S. 11°E.

Weather
Do. and fine Weather

Remarks
At 6H. 26' the South Point of the above mentioned Bay bore S. 32°W. The North Point of it S. 68°W. The Island off its Extream S. 48°W. The Island North of the Bay N. 89°W. & the Island which was ahead at Noon N. 50 W.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
A bluff Point, called above yr. North Point, N. 48°W. A long low Point runs off from this to yr. Eastward which was shut in by the last mentioned Island at N. 54°W.
All those Islands are flat table land & covered with with green Trees, but of what sort I cannot tell, probably they are Mangroves.

Weather
Do. & Cloudy Weather

Remarks
At 5H. 46' A.M. the Island off yr. Bay bore S. 15°W. The Island North of it S. 39°W. & that which was ahead yesterday noon S. 70°W.
The Bluff Point came open off yr. No. Et. Point of the last mentioned Isle when S. 87½ W. and the low Point when S. 50°W.
At 7.00 the most northerly Land in sight bore N. 73°W. I did not see it open.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 21H. 30' took Altitudes when the Low Point & Island (now beyond it) were in one & bore East the most Northerly Land in sight N. 66°W. & we were now off the Entrance into a very large & deep Bay the Eastern Shore of which seems pretty straight & to run S. b. W., and I make little doubt but that it is Quiros's Bay of St. Phillip & James.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
At noon the East Point of the Bay bore N. 86°W. the West Point, or North Point of the Land N. 58 W., a Point within it N. 58°W. & one within it N. 54°W. A high Hill with a flat Top S. 22°E.

Thursday August ye 25th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
At 2H. 9' took Altitudes No. Wt. Point bore N. 52°W. and ye East Point N. 81°E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At 4H. 45' the east Point bore N. 56½°E. The Table Hill S. 25°E. A low Point on the So. Wt. Shore S. 3°E. about 4 or 5 Miles the most northerly Point which was in sight on ye Western Shore N. 26°W. and soon after it came in one with one south of it at N. 22½°W.
Sounded 88 fathoms.

Weather
Little Wind & Do.
Do. & flying Clouds
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 11°. 26¾' E.
At 7H. 47' had Altitudes when yr. East Point bore N. 48°E. & the Point set last night N. 26°W. bore now N. 32½°W. Longit. by Dist. D. and Aldebaran 166°. 44½' E.

Weather
Do. Do.

[Page 351]

Friday, August ye 26th 1774

Weather
Calm & fine Weather

Remarks
At 4H. 25' took altitudes when the Table Hill bore S. 19½°E. & ye Et. Pt. N. 10°E. At ½ past 5 bore away; being then about three miles from the bottom of ye Bay. The Table Hill bearing S. 22½°E. dist. 5 or 6 leag. The East point of yr. Bay N. 7°E. & the most northerly Point in sight on ye West side N. 36°W.

Weather
Little wind Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Var. by Azim. 9°. 48' E.
Do. by Azim. 10.52 E.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
This Afternoon the Boats were hoisted out and the first Lieut. And Master sent to sound the bottom of the Bay and examine the Shores which are low for several Miles inland, and the Shores are fine sandy beaches without Rocks; but notwithstanding this the water is very deep close to them viz. 50 fathoms at a Cable's length & half, the bottom a blue Clay. Towards the Eastern corner is a pretty large Brook running with great rapidity into the sea & at some Distance a small stream or two of water ousing through the beach: but these can never fare be the Rivers Quiros writes off, if they are he must have far exceeded the Poetica Licentia and I fear much that even the Priviledges of a Traveller, extensive as they are generally said to be will [indecipherable] bear him out. However this may be it is certain we saw not the least appearance of his Port of Vera Cruz which would contain a thousand sail of ships, and were even unfortunately enough not to find anchorage for a single Ship at any prudent distance from the Shore. It is possible this may not be ye. Bay of St. Phil. & James; but the first he mentions, & if so we shall find it round ye. North-West point of this Bay.
While we were lying too for the Boats 3 Canoes with 5 or 6 of the Natives came off to us, and with much waving approached near enough to take some Medalls, Nails, & pieces of Otahitu Cloth which were lowered down to them by a string. They began to gather courage & would I believe soon have ventured on board had they not seen our boats coming off, on which they all made off. They seemed of a small size, having short black frizzled hair like those of Mallicolo which are not to black; but I must postpone what I have to say further of them for want of room.
At sun-rising a strong appearance of Land was seen at N.E. b. E. & were probably Quiros's Sana. De la Luz. At 19h. 17' Longit. by O D 167°. 20½' E. by D. & Aldeb. 167°. 19¾' E. by D & O Pegasi 166°33¾ ' E. The East Point of yr. Bay bore S. 68½°E. The No. Wt. Point N. 60½ W. the 2nd Point on that side S. 2°E.

Saturday August ye 27th 1774

Weather
Little Wind & fine Weather

Remarks
At 3H. took Altitudes when the North West Point bore S. 36°W. and the second Point on that side S. 37°E.
At 4H. 42' the two above mentioned Points came in one at S. 46°E. & two others westward were opening at the same time & bore S. 12°W. there was a small Island between & just open of both.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
A third Point opened off the last mentioned one at S. 8°W. and another off that at 6 o'Clock when they bore S. 5½°E. Moreover at the same time the North Point bore N. 67°W. & ye second of ye New ones S. 27°E.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
I here take the Opportunity to conclude what I had to saw concerning the Bay of St. Phillip & James, and by the bye, it is now clear that that we have just left is what was called so by Quiros, seeing that we have not the least appearance of any more land either to the southward, westward, or Northward.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The Dress of the Natives who came off to the Ship consisted only of a String which was tied very tight round the Waist, and a long narrow slip of Cloth, which, I think, passes between their legs and under their girdle from whence the two ends hang down both before and behind, almost as low as their knees. To this may be added a sort of Coronet of Cocks feathers which they wear on their head. If I interpreted their signs right they seemed to be very friendly inclined and endeavoured to understand and answer such Questions as we put to them: and amongst others told us the Land which formed ye West side of the Bay is called Tasonia, but they gave us three or four different Names for as many different Parts of it.
At 19H. 34' Longit. by O & D. 167°. 17 3/8' E. by E & Pollux 166°. 31½' E. by D 2 O Pegasi 167°. 44¼' E. At yr. same time ye No. Point bore N. 40½°E.

Weather
Do. do.
Variat. by Azim. 12°14¼' E.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
At Noon the North Point bore N. 26½°E.

[Page 352]
Friday August ye 28th 1774

Weather
Calm & fine Weather

Remarks
At 1H. 15' Land was seen through the Haze bearing S. 47°E., and a Rock which lies about a Mile from the Shore bore S. 85°E.

Weather
Little Wind Do.

Remarks
At 4H. 54' took Altitudes when the North Point bore N. 26°E.
Variation by Azimuth 9°. 15' E.

Weather
Calm Do.
Little Wind Do.
Calm Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 11°19 1/6' E.
At 19H. 45' Longit by Dist O & D 166°. 49' 26½" E. At the same time the North Point bore N. 16°E. & the southernmost Land in sight S. 42½°E.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At Noon the North Point bore N. 19°E. & the southern one S. 42°E.

Monday, August ye 29th 1774

Weather
Calm & fine Weather

Little Wind & Cloudy

Calm Do.

Do. Do.

Do. Do.

Remarks
At 6H. 20' the Extreams of the Land N. 13½°E. & S. 64½°E.
At 7H. 25' took Altitudes when the said Extreams bore N. b. E. ¾ E. and S. 76°E.

Weather
Little Wind Do.

Remarks

Longit. by Dist. O & D 165°. 44¾' E. Dollond's Quad.
Do. Do. 166. 26 3/8 E. Ramsden's Do.

Weather
Moderate Wind Do.

[Page 353]
Tuesday August ye 30th 1774

Weather
Brisk wind fine Weather

Remarks
At 2H. 45' Tacked about a Mile & half or 2 Miles from the Shore when three Points to the Southward were nearly in one & bore S. 37½°E. and the North Point bore N. 15 W.
Sounded: 75 fathoms.

Weather
Moderate wind Do.

Remarks
At 4H. 56' Tacked & took Altitudes when the south Point bore S. 60°E. & the northern one N. 3 or 4 E.

Weather
Variation by Azim. 9°. 00' E.
Do. Do.

Remarks
The west side of this Land, which is no doubt the Terra del espirito sancto of Quiros is exceeding high and mountainous rising almost perpendicularly from the Sea in most Places. Here and there indeed there are Beaches with flattish Land at the Back of them, and wherever this is the Case such spots are entirely covered with beautifull Plantations of Cocoa Nut Plantain & other Trees. The Cliffy Parts are all white like Chalk; but the Beaches are covered with a fine Brown sand.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Whole Country high & low is covered with Wood of one sort of other.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
A.M. the most northerly Point in sight came on with the most northern one of the three mentioned to be in a line last night when bearing N. 5°W. they are therefore the two which opened S. 5°E., the Evening we came out of the Bay of Phil. & James.

Weather
Longit. by O & D 166°. 36¾ ' E.
D & Aldeb. 167. 12 1/8 E.
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
The South Point of the Main, and North Point of the Island beyond it in one at N. 73½°E.
At 10H. 20' Tacked about 3 or 4 Miles from the Shore, when the south point of yr. Main bore N. 79°E. & the most northerly Land in sight N. 29°W. There is a pretty little Bay about 7 miles No. from ye Point.
At 10H. 50' yr. South Point of a Table Island opened. Of yr. south Pt. of yr. Main at N. 65°E. & ye No. Pt. of ye said Island opened at N. 58½° E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At Noon So. Point of ye Main N. 52°E. Its North Extream N. 12°W. Table Isle N. 55°E. to N. 58 E. Isle No. of M. Bougainville's Straits N. 65 E. to N. 75°E. 2 Mallicolo extended from S. 64°E. to S. 82 E.

Friday August ye 31st 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & fine Weather

Remarks
Two Points on the south side of the Main were in one at N. 45 E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
The South Point of ye Table Isle and a distant Point on the Main on one at N. 49°E.
Three Points on the West side of ye Main in one at N. 37°W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 3H. 12' took Altitudes when the Western Point of the Main bore N. 31°W. The Point bounds a pretty deep bay on yr. South side N. 15°E. the most Distant Point on the Main N.E. ¾ E. The Table Island N.E. ½ N. The Extreams of the Isle which makes Bougainville's Passage E.N.E. ½ E. & N. 85½°E.

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
At ½ past 4 P.M. hauled to the southward and quitted the Land.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Longit. by D & Aldebarn 166°. 33' E.
Do. by O & D 166. 29¼E. Ramsden's Qdr.
Do. Do. 165. 58¾E. Dollonds

Weather
Do. Do.

[Page 354]
Thursday, September ye 1st 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 8°. 38½' E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Friday September ye 2nd 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 10°. 01 5/6' E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Drizzling Rain
Little Wind Do.

[Page 355]
Saturday Septemr. Ye 3rd 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 9°. 23' E. by Gregorys Compass.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Amplitude 10°. 21' E. Log Book
Variation by Azimuth
(9. 44 2/3 E. Gregory's compass
(10. 23½ E. Knights Compass

Weather
Do. do.

Remarks
Saw High Land bearing S.S.W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At Noon the Land was seen from S.30°E. to S. 69°W: the nearest part 6 or 7 Leagues Distant.

Sunday Septemr. ye 4th 1774

Weather
Little Wind & Flying Clouds

Remarks
At 3H. 27' took Altitudes when the furthest Point of land that we could see to the southward bore S. 41°E. The No. Et. Point of the Main S. 68 W. A Pt. within that S.59 W. The Extreams of a pretty large Island S.75°& S. 87 W. & another small Island N. 89 W.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
Sounded: no Ground with 150 fathoms.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 6 P.M. the abovementioned So. Point bore S. 45°E. The south point of the Reef something like those of Otahitu etc. S. 8 W. The No. Pt. S. 70 W. the Point within it S. 60°W. A Point of the Reef to ye Northward S. 75 W. The Extreams of ye Northern Island S. 78°to S. 84°W. & the small one S. 88°W.
At 7 A.M. bore away when the Southern Point bore S. 5 E. the Northern one and the Point within it S. 75°W. & ye East End of the great Island to ye Northward N. 84°W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Point of the Reef to the Northard was on with ye North Point of ye Land at S. 78°W. & on with inner Point at S. 75°West.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
About 8 oClock came off an Opening in the reef about 1½ Miles wide which seemed to promise a Good Harbour within. The Boats were therefore hoisted out and sent to examine it. About 9 they returned & reported that the passage was clear, and the soundings within regular from 14 fathoms downward: the Bottom sand with Coral intermixed. There were a great number of the Natives in their Canoes, which carry a foresail & mizen, made of Mats, who seemed to be fishing on the Reef; but seeing our Boats go towards the opening they drew up towards both ways & lay on the two Points of the Reef, admiring them all the Time they were employed sounding, but never attempted to meddle with, or come near them. One indeed that came from the Shore & had it seems one of their Chiefs on board went up to the Boats without ceremony & in the most friendly manner took several fish of their own Boat & hove into ours Boat' & the Officer who was in her

[Page 356]
presented them with some Medalls, & such other Trinkets as he happened to have with him with which they seemed Pleased & went off.

On hearing this Report, the Capt. Sent a Boat to lie on the Point of the southern reef & hauled the ship close round because the Tide of Ebb set very Strong to the northward. These precautions were no more than necessary for we did but just go clear of the Northern Reef, the point of which lies somewhat within the other. All this time the Natives to the number of 10 or 12 Canoes lay on the two Points of the Reef seemingly wraped in astonishment at the address with which so large a body was turned & twisted about, and as soon as we were past them, they all up with their sails & followed us so that (to illustrate small things by large ones) we seemed like a Man-of-War, with a large fleet of Merchantmen under Convoy. We sailed thus between three & four Miles; the soundings being from 12 to 14 fathoms Clean Ground, and then came to the point of another Reef which extended South Eastward & seemed to Join the other about 5 or 6 Miles higher up. Over the end of this we passed in 5 & 6 fathoms, having all the Way a Boat a head sounding & Making signals. Within this reef lies a small sandy Island, under the Lee of which the Capt proposed to Anchor, and for that purpose made two or three boards to windward, the Natives following us all the time, tacking when we did, and making signs of friendship, & satisfaction at our arrival.

5th. Between 12 & 1 o'Clock we anchored in 5 fathoms; the small Sandy Island, mentioned above & on which I now proposed to Observe the Ensuing Solar Eclipse bearing S 88° E dist. about a Mile; The most easterly point of ye Main in sight S 68’ E. The Point of the Inner Reef N. 11 ½ E and the Opining in the outer one N. 4 or 5 W for it could not be set with Certainty. The most Northerly point of the Main in sight N. 76 W. The Extreams of the large Island to the Northward N. 69 ½ W., and N. 61 W., and a small one between it & the Main N.70 ½ W.

We had not been long at Anchor before the Natives ventured so near as to take from us pieces of Otahitee Cloth which were lowered down to them by a String, and before night many of them Came on board the Ship with a Confidence surpassed by nothing but the Behaviour of the People of Tonga-tabu, Annamocka, on the like occasion. They appeared perfectly good natured, friendly & honest which is more than can be said of any others in these seas on our first Acquaintance with them. They are quite naked except for a bit of Cloth or a leaf which they tye round the Penis, and which sometimes does not cover above half of that. Some of them fasten the end of this covering up to a string which goes round their waist but in General they let it hang down. Some few have a bit of Cloth tied round the forehead but not many. In short those People approach nearer to the Dress of Adam before he sewed the fig leaves together, than any we have seen before. They are an hansome well-made People enough, and like all other naked people very Active and nimble. Their Complexion is a very dark Copper, with Jet-black Hair & Beards. Their hair is very much frizzled, and most of them keep it cut quite short so that at first sight it looks very much like that of Negros, but on examination I found it as strong & coarse, if not more so than ours. I think the Hair of the Mallicola People is not so strong & hard as that of those, in other respects they are exactly Alike. Their Weapons are short Clubs, Slings, and Spears which they throw in the same Manner, as the Tanna People do but these are much more neady made & more desperate Weapons.

Their Canoes, are all double, with a very heavy Platform over both, on which they have a fire hearth, & generally a fire burning. The whole Boat is very clumsey & heavy, which enables them to carry so much sail as they do; but they move very slowly without. They do not Paddle, as all the other Nations in these seas do, but work them with large Oars, which pass through holes in the Platform, in the same manner that small Boats are sometimes done in England by a single Person with an Oar over its Stern; which I believe is generally termed sculling it along.

In the Morning I landed on the above mentioned Small Island, and got Altitudes for the Time by Mr Kendall's Watch, and also of the Water for determining the time of low Water. Seeing us land here, a great number of the Natives came over to us in two Canoes & landed on the Island; but thinking them too Many, and that some of them might take away things which I could but 111 spare, I made signs to them to go away, and they all Instandy retired to their Canoes which lay half hauled up on the Beach, and there sat and observed our Operations.

About Noon it was Low-water, and nearly dry between the Island & the Main. When 40 or 50 of the Natives Chiefly women & Children walked over to us; but these were no great trouble to us for we needed but look toward them and they would all run into the Water: 'tis true they grew bolder by degrees, and in a little time some of the most Audacious would stand & look at us untill we came within half a score Yards of them, before they ran.
The dress of the women is a sort of fringe, made of a Substance not much unlike hemp twisted into strings, and passed at least 20 or thirty times round their wast; it is cut very even at the bottom & reaches not more than half way down the Thighs. This is all their dress except that some very few wear a small piece of Cloth like the Men tied round their forehead but this is not common, and may probably be some mark of distinction.

6th. The unfavourableness of the Weather hindered me from seeing the beginning of the Eclipse, and it continued so untill near the Middle, when it became pretty Clear and continued so to the End, which I got with great Precision at 3h 28' 4½ " Apparent Time. I was very sorry on account of the Cloudyness of the Weather because it hindered me in some Measure from Exhibiting a new and I think important use which may be made of Hadley's Quadr., more especially at Sea, where it is impossible to apply any other Instrument of the sort, and that is a most excellent Micrometer, and even at land it may be of great use where a more perfect one is wanting. The greatest objection which can be made against and indeed which might in this Case might principally to be attended to is the side, adjustment as it is generally called, for as to the Common one it will always be Corrected in

[Page 357]
this sort of Observations by taking them alternately before & behind D or the first diversion of the Quadt. and as to any other Errors they must be very great indeed to affect those small Arches. However the side adjustment may be either the Sun or Moon when at full, which are the two principal Objects where an Instrument of this sort is wanted, be rendered sufficiently exact; but it cannot in the common way by holding the plane of the Quadt. parallel to that of the horizon & estimating when the reflected Horizon in the quick silvered part of the horizon Glass & direct Horizon beside it coincides. But supposing this error could not, as I think it may, be exactly enough rectified, yet as the Diameter of the Sun or Moon may always be measured either at the time, or both exact before and after, and as from thence the ratio between that & the distance measured may be had exactly enough and which is mostly the thing wanted or if not those diameters themselves well enough known from Theory to exhibit a scale for the Instrument this Error can be of little Effect. The repetition which this Instrument admits of is a great advantage, as an Experienced observer may always repeat his Observations of this sort in 2's or 3's of time. It was the exactness with which the Sun's diameter may be measured with yr. Hadley's Quadt. that gave me the first hint of this for I am convinced from much Experience that it may almost always be had within 4 or 5 seconds and sometimes less; And although I do not propose this Instrument in its present form and Construction, as equal to Dollond's Micrometer, yet if we may Judge from the Measurements which were taken with the latter by different Persons of the Sun's diameter & diameter of Venus at the late Transit of that Planet over the Sun's disk, it does not seem to assure much great Exactness. I am indeed far from thinking Dollond's Micrometer so perfect as it has been supposed, and that chiefly on account of the great nicety which is required in adjusting the Tellescope to the eye of the Observer, and my Objection is founded on a supposition that the Eye of the Observer is liable to change its figure, either by some change in the habit or state of the Body, or fatigue of ye. Spirits; but more especially long attention to observing such as was required in the late Transit of Venus, and in Solar or Lunar Eclipses. However, be this as it will, I have found constantly that if a Telescope be adjusted with the utmost care to the Eye of any Person with the Micrometer & the O's diameter or any other Object be measured by it carefully; and the Micrometer & Tellescope stand for a few hours, 5 or 6 for example, & the same Object be then measured again it will generally be considerably different from the former Measurement; and of this I remember to have complained to the Reverend Mr. Maskelyne, his Majesty's Astronomer Royal at my return from Hudson's Bay, and if I am not mistaken he told me that he had observed something of the same kind himself. If it was proposed to use a Micrometer on these Principles at Land, some alterations might easily be made in its form, by which means it might be applied to a propper Tellescope and possibly constitute the most perfect, certainly the most extensive, Micrometer we yet have.

The time of Low water, as appeared by Equal Altitudes was at 00h.18' and I made the Latitude of the Island by the Sun's Meridian Altitude 20°17' S.

In the Morning as early as possible I went on Shore at the Watering Place, which is a small Brook sw of the Ship to have got the time of High Water, but found that at 18h 50' it was past the water having then fallen about 2 ½ Inches as appeared by a stick which was set up last night. It was easy to see how high it had been by the Wet part of the Stick as there was not the least surf.

7th. At Noon I went to look after the Low-water but found the Natives had taken away my mark, so that I could determine nothing relative to the quantity the Water fell, but the time of Low Water was at 58' past Noon. I set up another Mark in another Place; but when I went again in the Evening it also was gone.

This Afternoon I took an Opportunity which Cap Cook offered me of going with him a few Miles down the Coast in the Boat. We landed opposite one of their Villages, which consisted of 6 or 7 Houses: But there were very few Natives about them I suppose they were up at the Watering Place & on board the Ship. The Houses were all circular; about 6 or 7 Yards diameter as I judged by steping across them. The Upright sides may be about 5 feet after which the roof begins and runs up to a pretty sharp point and so high as to make two stories of about 7 or 8 feet each into which they are divided by a flooring of Sticks laid Cross-wise. The upper one seems appropriated to a sort of Store house for their Arms Utensils &c &c. The Walls are made by setting pretty strong Posts in the Ground, to which are fastened Rails, or Cross-pieces all round at different heights. Against those rails on the outside Reeds are placed upright, which are fastened by putting long slender Rods all round on the out side directly opposite to the Rails or cross pieces which are within & the two are tyed tight together by strings which pass between the Reeds at short distances from one another, and there by keep the Reeds in their Place. These Walls may be about 3 or 4 Inches thick & the Reeds are laid in very close. The Roof is thatched in the same Manner, and is at least 6 or 8 Inches thick so that it readily appears that their houses are not only neat & convenient but also very warm; but notwithstanding this and the temperate Climate they are in, there are none of them without a fire Hearth; but they have no Window nor so much as a hole to let the Smoke out on which account they must be dark, and very disagreeable. The Door-way is about 2 feet or 2 ½ feet wide, and the same height with the upright part of the Wall. Instead of a Door, there hang down a great many Flags like a Curtain, which they put aside each way when they want to go in or out. The Door posts are in general two Terms, the Faces on which are not badly Executed; and all the difference between them & those we meet with in English Architecture is, that the Sheath or Stem, is here a semi-Cylinder, carved into Shells & c whereas those of the latter are I think usually square & plain. Round some of the Houses were Plantations of Yams, Tarro Roots, & c but these were rare & the Plantations small. There were Cocoa-Nut-Trees round most of them - but not many, and they were all small and low. Indeed the Soil of the whole Country seems sterile, being a dry Sandy mold, that produces no underwood, but is every where covered with a long dry Grass. The Trees, are chiefly of one sort, whose bark is very white & hangs in rags, the leaves also, which are long, narrow & few in number, are of a very pale dead

[Page 358]
Green, so that at a distance they look only like dead Trees & the Country quite bare. This is to be understood of the Country in general, for there are exceptions, where the Ground is low & swampy, and all these parts are covered with Mangrove trees which are of a very lively Green & look beautifull enough at a distance; but when you come amongst them it is much the worst part of the Country, unless we except again the tops of the Mountains which are bare Rocks, very full of Mundic. I should have mentioned that the White Tree above Mentioned is an exceeding hard wood & a very fine aromatic.

The Inhabitants boil their Victuals in a large long Earthen Pot which they set over a fire on three stones with its mout inclined side-ways, I suppose for handiness in getting things in and out. These Pots are very neatly made of a fine red clay, and they seem tolerably Cleanly about them. Their Principal food seems to be fish which they catch on the Reefs, and the Bark of a certain tree which they roast, and are almost continually chewing; it is of a very insipid tast; but some of our people who chewed a good deal of it said it began to be very agreeable. In short this Country seems to be no Land of Canaan. However if little can be said in Praise of the Country, much may of the goodness of its Inhabitants. Their honesty is the greatest I ever saw; and it is certainly from principle, for they are as fond of our things as any other People whatever: that of the Tanna People was supposed to proceed from their contempt, or rather dread of touching any thing we had, even when it was given to them for few would take it otherwise than in a leaf, or some such thing. Nor is the Good-nature, Friendship, or hospitallity of these People a jot inferior to their Integrity: and I’ll befall the Person who ever gives them Cause to act otherwise. To what I have before said relating to the Manner in which those People wear their Hair, may be added that many of the men have a lock on each Temple left long, which they dress up into two such Wings as our Jemmy Mercurys at home did a little while ago; but in point of cleanliness our present neighbours have much the preference; since I have not seen any of their wings clogged with a pound-weight of greasy Past, as was generally the Case with the others.

In the Morning Equal Altitudes of the Water were taken by two Marks, and the top of high Water marked on each. The High-Water was at 19h.29’. The Marks now made Use off were two Trees which had been blown down and now lay fast in the sand with their branches standing up, one is in the Mouth of ye Brook & the other a good way out to seaward, for the shore is very flat & the Water Ebbs out in some places near half a Mile. I made choice of these because I think it not Easy for the Natives to remove them.

I have learned from some of the Natives that the Name of the large Island we see to the Northward is Ballabea, & that the small one on which I observed the Eclipse is Pudyoua, but I cannot find out that they have any General Name for the Main land. It is divided into many districts over each of which there is a Chief whom they entitle Areki. The Name of that District off which the Ship lies is Ballade, and its Areki is called Teabooma, who has been on board. The little Island Pudyoua also belongs to him. The Areki of Ballabea is called Teaby, and besides it, he is Areki of a province on the Main, or the little Isle which lies between Ballabea & the Main, I could not tell which, but believe it is the latter; however be it which it will, it is called Caddy and I shall therefore distinguish that little Isle by this Name. I got the Names of 12 or 14 Districts or Islands with their Arekis, but as I was neither certain of the Extent, or even order of them it is to no purpose to Enumerate them.
8th. It was low-water, at least as near as I could Estimate, at 5' or 10' past 2 o'Clock, at which time I fixed a Rod up at the Place, and by means of the Astronomical Quadt found the difference of height between the two high-water Marks of this Morning, and the Low-water mark at this time, which were 2 feet 11 Inches & ¼, and 3 feet no Inches & 7/8 of an Inch. I then removed the Rod to a Place where the low-water had been marked on a Rock the Day before & found the difference between that & the two high water-Marks, and found them 3 feet one Inch & a quarter, and three feet: It is obvious that the two former & two latter ought to have been the same; I know not why they are otherwise, - perhaps the differences are pardonable. It is true; as the distance of the low-water-mark was, in the former case but about ½ a Furlong from one high-water-Mark & about ½ a Furlong and ½ from the other, the Error of the Line of Collienation (if any) will make a difference. This Error when at Otaheite last was 21 ½” to be subtracted from ye Zenith Dist.. If we suppose that Error to exist now the Quadrant would give the rise of the Water too small in the first case by 1,2 Inches & 0,4 Inches. The second low-water-Mark was nearly at equal distance from the two high-water-Marks, and as near as I could guess, about a furlong: therefore 0,8 of an Inch must be added to each of these, and the above 4 Numbers so encreased will be 3 feet 10 Inches & an half, 3 feet 1 In. & 2/3, 3 feet 0 In. & 8/10, and 3 feet 1In. & 2/3 respectively.
To Day the Launch & Cutter were sent with ye 3d Lieut. & Master to examine & survey ye Western Part of the Land.

9th to the 11th. We had strong Wind & Cloudy weather with Rain at times, on which Acount and the scarcity of Boats I had no opportunity of getting once on Shore at either the Times of high or Low Water but I made a shift to get many astronomine Observations with the results of which I shall close my Account of this Place.
The Longit. of the Ship at Anchor by a mean of 20 Observations taken before we arrived & reduced by the Watch was 164°45' 52" by 8 Do. taken while there 164°. 42'. 06½" and by 20 taken after leaving it 164°. 32'. 32". The mean of the three is 164°. 40' 11" E. Mr. Kendall's Watch gave 163°. 56'. 40¼"E. The Latitude by a mean of 7 Meridian Alts. is 20°17' 58" S. Hence I deduce by means of the Bearing & distance the Latitude of ye little Island Pudyoua 20°. 18'. 10" S. & its Long. by Observation 164°. 41'. 13" E.; by the Watch 163°. 57'. 42¼": But by the single Observation made on the Spot on Tuesday ye 6th its Latitude was only 20°. 17' S. & Long. by K. 163°. 57'. 6" E. The Variation of the Compass I made no more than 8°32'. 32" E. but it ought to be remarked that this is considerably less than any I had observed for a considerable time either before we went in or after we left the Place.

[Page 359]

Monday September ye 12th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
At ½ past 6 A.M. weighed and got underway with a moderate Wind at East and after running North about 3 Miles the low Point which was the farthest point from the Ship bore S. 88°W. & the Inner or Saddle Point West. The Point of the reef which forms the Passage was on with the farthest part of yr. Reef we could see at N. 31°W. When in the Passage the Saddle Isle S. 80°W. & at Point within it S. 75°W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 8H. 40' the Saddle was on with yr. Point of yr Main Reef abovementioned at S. 45°W.
At 9.30 the Saddle S. 35°W. & the above mentioned Pt. of yr. Reef S. 18°E.
At 10.30 the Saddle S. 5°W. & the little Island between Ballabea & the Main S. 18°W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At Noon the Extreams of Ballabea S. 17°W. & S. 6°E. and we saw the Reef as far as W ½ N.

Tuesday September ye 13th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & fine Weather

Remarks
At ½ past one o'Clock Land was seen through the clouds bearing S. 25°W. and a point of the Reef was seen as far as W. 6 N. ½ N.

Weather
Long. by O & D
(164°. 13¾' Dold.
(164. 00 3/8 Ram.
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 2 oClock Land was seen through the Clouds S 75°W.
At 4 oClock Land was seen S. 65°W.
At 4h. 45' An opening was seen in the Reef S.S.W. 6 or 7 Miles distant and Land in spots from S. 50°W. to S. 87°W.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
At ½ past 6 A.M. bore away. Ballabea S. 18°E.
At 7h. 40' a point of the Reef bore W. b. N.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 9 oClock Land seen in Spots from S. 48 W. to S. 85°W. Several openings or Bays bore S. 55°W., S. 75°W. & S. 81°W.

Weather
Do. Hazy

Remarks
At Noon the Land was not visible on account of Clouds.

[Page 360]
Wednesday September ye 14th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
At one oClock the Extreams of the Land S. 24½°W. to S. 62°W. a bay or opening S. 50°W.
At 2 oClock Land was seen S. 53½°W. & S. 56°W. through the Clouds.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist O & D
(163°. 46' E. by Dolland
(163. 24½ E. by Ramsden.
Variat. by Azim. 10°. 36½'. Log Book.
At 4h. 45' the Land was again seen in Patches from S. 25°W. to S. 53½ W. and the Reef as far as N.N.W.
At 6 oClock the Reef was seen N. 71 W.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 10. 52 5/6 E.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Reef seen N.W. b. N.
At 10h. 30' Land was seen from the Mast-head S. b. W. & the Reef from N. 75°W. to S. 87°W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At Noon a small Sandy Isle was seen S.S.W. ½ W. dist. 6 or 7 Miles.

Thursday September ye 15th 1774

Weather
Light Airs & fine Weather

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O & D
(163°. 38½' E. Dollond
(163. 53¼ E. Ramsden

Weather
Calm Do.

Remarks
The ship sitting fast towards the Reef hoisted out the boats & sent them ahead to tow her off.
Variation by Azimuth 9°. 01 2/3 E.

Weather
Light Airs Do.
Do. Do.
Calm Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(11°. 06' Knights Compass
(10. 11¼ Ships Compass
(10. 2 1/3 Gregory's Compass

Weather
Do. Do.
Little Wind Do.

Remarks
Hoisted in the Boats.

[Page 361]
Friday September ye 16th 1774

Weather
Little Wind & Hazy Weather
Calm Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 9°. 22½ E.
At half past five o'Clock Land was seen S. 70½°W. & S. 55°W. Also more S. 26°W., S. 6°W. and S. 3½°E.

Weather
Do. Do.
Little Wind Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Saturday September ye 17th 1774

Weather
Little Wind & fine Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

[Page 362]
Sunday September ye 18th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Taken aback.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. drear long Rain do.
Do. Do. Do.
Do. Do. Do.
Little Wind do. Do.
Do. Do. Do.

Monday September ye 19th 1774

Weather
Little Wind & Hazy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
A round Hill very remarkable bore South.

Weather
Light Breeze & fine Weather

Moderate Wind Do.

Remarks
At 6 A.M. the Hill bore S. 71°W. the northernmost Land in sight S. 78½°W., and the Eastern Extream about S.E. ¼ S.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Longit by Dist.
(D & O Aquila 166°. 6½' E.
D & O Anitis 165. 33½ E.
Variation by Azimuth
(10. 52 E. Knights Compass
(10. 3 5/6 E. Ship's Do.
(10. 2 E. Gregory's Do.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At Noon the South East Extream bore S. 40½°E. the West Extream N. 86 W. the Hill S. 86 W. and another Hill S. 48°W.

[Page 363]
Tuesday September ye 20th 1774

Weather
Little Wind & fine Weather

Remarks
At 3 o'Clock a Point bore West.
At 3h. 41' took Altitudes when yr. 2nd Hill bore S. 71½°W. and and the S.E. Point S. 46½' E.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 5 o'Clock an Island came open of yr. North Point when N. 80°W. There were at the same time three other small Isles or Rocks between that & west which seem to be on a reef; and I think I saw this reef extend as far as S. 75°W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(10°. 00 1/3' E. Ship's Compass
(10. 40 2/3 E. Knight's Do.
(9. 53 E. Gregory's Do.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 6 P.M. several Bays, or Islets, bore S. 10°E., S. 15 W., S. 78°W., N. 85°W. and two Points to the Northward were in one & bore N. 70°W. The former of these Points is that off which the little Isle lies the latter is called by the Capt. Cape Collnet after the Person who first discovered the Land.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 10°12' E.
Longit. by Dist. of
(166°. 20¾' E, D & I Aquila
(165. 37 E. D & Aldebaran

Weather
Calm Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
At Noon the Point off which the little Island lies bore S. 89½°W. and the Extreams of the Land were from N. 82°W. to S. 41°E.

Wednesday September 21st 1774

Weather
Little Wind & fine Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 4h. 4' took Altitudes at which Time the Point of which the Isles lies bore N. 83°W. Longit. by D & O Aquila 166°15½' E.
Variation by Azimuth 9°. 58' E.

Weather
Calm Do.
Little Wind Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation
(by Amplitude 7°. 59' E.
(by Azimuth 7. 52 5/6 E. Gregory's Compass
At 19h. 5½' took Altitudes: the most southerly Land in sight bore S. 83°W. Longit. by D & Fomalhaut 166°29¾' E. by the Moon and Aldebaran 166°46 5/6' E.

Weather
Moderate Wind and Do.

Remarks
At 8h. 38' A Bay or Islet bore bore S. 35½°W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At Noon the above mentioned Bay bore S. 51°W. and the Extreams of the Land N. 88½° W. to S. 36°E.

[Page 364]
Thursday September ye 22nd 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & fine Weather

Remarks
At 2 oClock the Bay S. 66°W. & a high point or Island S. 35°W.
At 4 o'Clock the High Point or Isle bore S. 60°W. & a low point which runs off from there S. 67 W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 6 oClock the Extreams of the Land S. 42°E. to S. 75°W.
Variation by Azimuth
(9°. 12' E. Ship's Compass
(8. 22 1/3 E. Gregory's Compass

Weather
Calm & Do.
Little Wind & Cloudy
Do. do.

Remarks
At 18h. 3' the south East Point bore S. 31½°E. the Point within it, which the Capt. calls Cape Coronation, S. 29°E. A Bay or Islet S. 15°W. another W. 69°W., the Extreams of an island S. 51°W. to W. 35°W. distant 10 or 12 Miles.
Variation by Azimuth 9°. 00' E.
Long. by D & Aldebaran 167. 05¼E.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 7h. 52' took Altitudes when the south East Point bore S. 28¼°E. & the Northern Extream S. 68°W.
At 9h. 25' took more Altitudes when the south Extreams bore S. 25°E.
At 10h. 15' the Extreams of yr. Island S. 52°W. & S. 68°W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At noon the Extreams of the Island S. 60°W. to S. 77°W. & the South East Point S. 22½°E.

Friday September ye 23rd 1774

Weather
Little Wind & fine Weather

Remarks
At 3h. 59' took Altitudes when the south East Point bore S. 4°E. Cape Coronation S. 52 W. and an Inlet S. 83°W. Low flat land runs off from the south east Point 5 or 6 Degrees.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 6h. 10' the most northerly Extream of the Land N. 72°W. the south-east point S. 5½°E. the extreams of the Low Land S. 9°E. & more low land which I take to be Islands, was seen from yr. Mast Head 3°or 4°without this.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Variat. by Azim. 11°32½'
Do. Do.
Do.

Remarks
The appearance of the Land hearabouts is materially different from what it was near the Place where we Anchored. Here the Trees & verdure are of a fine bright Green and seem chiefly to grow in the higher parts of the Land; but the greater part, even here, is almost certainly destitute of this lovely cloathing and seems to a redish Clay or Rock. The Shores, in most places, and all the low land spoken of above exhibits a most extraordinary appearance and seems as if it was full of exceeding high, upright, ragged Pillars of Wood or Stone; but which nevertheless I take to be Trees of a singular Nature; they are, if trees they be, certainly such as we have not seen before. One Gentleman in the True Spirit of the Ancient Philosophy asserts & swears to it also that they are Pillars of Bazaltes such as compose the Giant's Causeway in Ireland & that he can see with his Glasses the points very distinctly. I have often been struck with surprize at the Excellency of this Gentleman's Eyes & Glasses or the imperfection of my own. He has seen Oranges & Lemons growing on yr. trees at 3 miles Distance & seen positively [indecipherable] Bird flying at upwards of one. I think it ought to be mentioned to the honour of Mr. Ramsden that the Glass these feats have been done with was made by him & is a common & [indecipherable] Astronomic Spy Glass.
Longit. at 19h. 47' by D & Aldebaran 168°14' E. Do. by D & Fomalht. 162°12' E. Ditto by Longit. moon 167°08¼' E. both observations.
At Noon the Bluff which has always been set for the South East Point bore S. 27½°W. The Low Land ran out about 5°or 6°more Eastward.

[Page 365]
Saturday September ye 24th 1774

Weather
Little wind & fine Weather

Do. Do.

Remarks
At 5h. 40' the South East Point S. 24°W. the Northern Extream E. 74½ W. Cape Coronation S. 59°W. A high Island not seen before S. 35°E. ahead one S. 3 W.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 18h. 40' the South Et. Point S. 38°W. The High Island S. 36½E., the low one S. 22½°W. The Inlet between the Capes S. 54½W.
Longit. by D & O Pegassis 167°53 7/8' E.

Weather
Do. Do.

Do. Do.

Remarks
At Noon Cape Coronation N. 78 W. the South East Point S. 51°W. the southern Extream of ye Land S. 37°W. The Inlet between the Capes S. 55°W. the high Island S. 38½°E. the low one S. 22°W.

Sunday September ye 25th 1774

Weather
Little Wind & fine Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 2h. 25' a Point Came open off the south Point at S. 41°W.
At 3h. 38' the high Island bearing S.50°E. A new one S.S.E. another south, a third S.84½°W. & the former had one S.29 W: these four are all small & low. The southern Extream S.49°W. The South East Point N. 63 W. Cape Coronation N. 53½°W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 4H. 48' the high Island bore S. 47½ E. the 2nd of the low ones S. 22°W., the 3rd S. 45 W. & the former low one S. 53°West. Hauled on a Wind to the Eastward in order to go round the high Island, as there appears nothing but Reefs & broken Water all the way between it and the main.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
A.M. a Point on ye main opened off that which came open last night at S. 47°W.
Variation by Azimuth
(9°. 11 1/3' E. Ship's Compass
(8. 45 2/3 E. Knight's Do.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Land which forms the Point just above mentioned appeared to be an Island & came open off ye main at 8h. 5' bearing them S. 50°W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At noon the Extreams of the high Island were S. 24 E. to S. 3°E.
A round hill in its middle, being the Part hitherto always set bore now S. 13½ E.

[Page 366]
Monday September ye 26th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.

Weather
At 4h. 21' took Altitudes when the Extreams of the high land bore S. 12 1/8°E. and S. 10½°W. A small Island which is probably joined to the other by a low Isthmus bore S. 20½°W. and Cape Coronation N. 76½°W.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. squally

Remarks
The large Island we are now off is in general low land with a pretty high round Hummock in the middle of it. It is almost everywhere covered with those very extraordinary trees, or Pillars as some were yet have them to be, and many are exceeding large & high.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 9h. 40°Tacked: the Extreams of the Island bearing S.W. ½ W. & N.W. ½ W., the Hills W.S.W. ¼ W. A small island S ½ E. and there is another small Island between this & the Large one & all three are joined by a Reef.

Weather
Do. & flying Clouds

Remarks
At Noon the Hill bore S. 53°W. & the Extreams of the island S.73°W. and S. 38°W.

Tuesday September ye 27th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & fine Weather

Remarks
At 3h. 54' took Altitudes the Hill bearing S. 48°W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 5h. 45' Tacked about 2 or 3 Miles from the Shore when the Western Extream as set at Noon bore N. 58°W. A point within it N. 66 W. dist. 3 miles and the small Island mentioned above S. 6°E.

Weather
Do. Cloudy

Remarks
I am now perfectly convinced that those four extraordinary appearances are Trees as we were very near some of them but nothing of the sort ever sure had so singular a form. They must be also amazing large as every other thing on the Isle appeared but as so many bunches of Reeds when compared to them.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 9h. 50' the two small Isles mentioned above were in one & bore N. 85°E. The point of the Island nearest to them N. 1°E. and a little Island on the West side N. 45½°W.
At 10h. 08' the Hill bore N. 10°W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 10h. 48' Two Islands bore N. 25°W. & N. 43°W. The West Point of ye Large Island N. 19 W. & ye innermost Isle on ye East side N. 64°E.
At Noon two Islands bore N. 19°W. & N. 33°W., two others (set above) N. 7 E. & N. 19°W. That set at 9h. 53' was in one with ye East Pt. of ye Island bore N. 68 E. & one with ye Hill bore N. 45°E.

[Page 367]
Wednesday September ye 28th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
At 0h. 33' that which was on with the hill at Noon & that which bore North were in one & bore N. 83 E.
At 1h. 50' the two Islands set at Noon N. 19°W. & N. 33°W. bore N. 78 & N. 75½E.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 2h. 55' the south Point of the Main bore N. 64 W. and soon after another point opened off this at N. 56°W.
At 3h. 7' took Altitudes when ye south-east Point of the main bore N. 16°W. & two Islands not seen before West and S. 70°W.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 4h. 15' the two last mentioned Islands bore N. 45½°W. and N. 54½°W.
At 4h. 25' another Isle not seen before bore N. 73°W. & ye Hill N. 68°E.
At 4.30 Tacked when ye above Island bore West: All Reefs & broken water ahead and on both Bows.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 5h. Tacked: and at 6 Tacked again: sounded & had 40 fathoms.
We passed the night standing too & soon amongst these terrible Reefs expecting the ship to be brought up by some or other of them every minute: to mind the matter, it turned out exceeding such, and I really think our situation was to be envyed by very few except the thief who has got the Halter about his Neck.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
In the morning bore away with intention to take shelter under the lee of a small Island to leeward untill an opportunity offered to get clear of this dangerous Place.

Weather
Do. & flying Clouds

Remarks
A low Island which I think is the same I have mentioned in ye 24th& 25th came in one with south-east Point when bearing N. 22 W.
About ½ past 10 came to on Anchor under the Lee of ye Prepared Isle which then bore N. 88½ E. the Extreams of a Reef which surrounds it N. 77°E. to S. 67°E. The Low Isle mentioned above N. 25°W. A small Sandy Isle on ye Reef N. 27°E. Another surrounded by a Reef N. 83½°W. An opening in the Eastern Reef S. 65 E. & two small Reefs to the southward S. 31½ W. & S. 3°W. The cutter was immediately hoisted out and the Capt. went in her to see if the Island or Reefs afforded us any Refreshment.
Longit by Dist. O & D
(167°. 48¼' E. Dollond's Quadr.
(167. 47½E. Ramsden's Do.

Thursday September ye 29th

Weather
Moderate Wind & fine Weather

Remarks
Soon after Noon the Boat returned without having seen either Turtle or Fish of any kind on the Reef. They landed on the Island, cut down one of the remarkable Trees, of which there were many, and brought it on board, it proved to be a Pine, and of the spruce kind; the Branches are exceeding short small and numerous, and much of a length all the way up which gives them that singular appearance.

In the afternoon the Boats went again & the Carpenter to cut down some of ye smaller Pine trees for the Ship's use. I also went amongst others and picked up a large quantity of an herb known commonly by ye name of Lamb's Quarter, which is a most excellent Green & much resembles [indecipherable]. A great deal grows on the Island. There were many sorts of Trees on this little Island beside the Pines, particularly the Etoe Tree. We saw many sea Gulls some Curlews, Pidgeons and large Hawkes, all which soon left the Island after we began to fire at them. Although there were now no Habitants on it, it was plain enough that it is often visited as it is full of Tracks and had fire places all over it where they had dressed their victuals which appeared to have been chiefly Turtle, as many Pieces of ye Shell which had been roasted on ye fires were scattered round these Places.

Weather
Do. do.
Do. do.

Remarks
The Island is not more than ¾ of a mile round. It is everywhere surrounded with a Reef of Coral Rock which runs out in a Shoal to a considerable distance. It abounds with very large Snakes whose skins are disposed in rings, alternately black & white, of about an Inch & half or 2 Inches broad. I cannot tell whether or no they are venomous, they have large fangs; but I believe they are only of that sort usually called water [indecipherable]. They are a very torpid sort of Reptile.

Weather
Do. Do.
Variat. by Azim.
(8°. 34' ) E.
(8. 39)

Remarks
After getting on board we had a rich repast indeed off our Greens & a piece of salt Pork. The fear of being affected by eating after so long an abstimiousness from them induced one to eat rather sparingly, and accordingly I felt no bad effects from them; but some of those who ate very plentifully suffered very severe gripings attended with a looseness.

Weather
Do. Do.
Tacked a small Reef right ahead & [indecipherable]
Do. Do.

Remarks
I must not omitt to remark that the circumstance of the Pine Tree is no inconsiderable addition to the Value of this Discovery since many of the Trees on this little Island would have made a good mizen [indecipherable] for the Resolution, and they appeared exceeding small from the Ship when compared with many others which we saw on the Main & large Island: and I believe no Trees of this kind have been before met with in those seas.

[Page 368]
Friday September ye 30th 1774

Weather
Light Breezes & fine Weather

Remarks
Sounded: 75 fathoms.

Weather
Calm, Do.

Remarks
Sounded: 120 fathoms
Variation by Azimuth
(10°. 12¾' E. Ship's Compass
(10. 11 2/3 E. Gregory's Do.
(11.19 1/8 E. Knight's Do.
Sounded: 154 fathoms & no Ground.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Sounded: 130 fathoms

Weather
Little Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Sounded: 55 fathoms
Sounded: 75 fathoms

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy

Remarks
Took in the 1st Reef of the Main & Mizen Topsail.

Weather
Brisk Wind & Rain

Do. Do.

Saturday October ye 1st 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & fine Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Took in the 1st Reef of the fore topsail.

Weather
Do. Do.
Rain
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Set out the Reef of the Top sails.
Longit. by Dist. O & D
(169°. 32 7/8' Dollond's Quadr.
(169. 58¾' E. Ramsden's Do.

Weather
Do. Do.

[Page 369]
Sunday, October ye 2nd 1774

Weather
Little Wind & fine Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(9°. 52½' E. Knight's Compass
(9. 52 E. Gregory's Compass

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Squally with Showers

Remarks
A great Head seas.
Split the spot face, & unbent it.

Weather
Do. Do.

Monday October ye 3rd 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & fine Weather

Remarks
A great Swell from the South-West.

Weather
Moderate Wind, Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(9°. 19 1/3' E.
(9. 43 1/6 E.

Weather
Squally Weather
Do. Do.

[Page 370]
Tuesday October ye 4th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & foggy Weather

Remarks
Split the Main Top Gallant sail: un-bent it.

Weather
Squally with Rain

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 10°. 29' E. Gregory's Compass.
Bent another Mizen top-gallant sail.

Weather
Moderate Wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Squally Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 11°. 22½' E. Gregory's Compass.

Weather
Moderate Wind & fine Weather
Do. Do.

Wednesday October ye 5th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & fine Weather
Squally & Cloudy

Remarks
A great head Sea. Took in the Top-Gallant sails and a reef in the fore and Main Topsails: Handed the Mizen Topsail.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Little Wind Do.

Remarks
A very great Swell.
Variation by Azimuth
(14°.10' E. Knight's Comps.
(12.58 E. Gregory's Do.
(13. 40½E. Ship's Do.
Set out the Reefs & set the Mizen Topsail & Top Gallant Sails.

Weather
Do. and fine Weather
Do.

[Page 371]
Thursday October ye 6th 1774

Weather
Cloudy Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(9°. 50' E. Knight's Compass
(10. 26 1/3 E. Gregory's Do.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth (11°. 17 5/6' Gregory's Compass

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Friday October ye 7th 1774

Weather
Calm & Cloudy Weather
Moderate Wind & Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth
(13°. 53' E. Knight's Compass
(13. 54 E. Do. another Compass
(12. 47½ E. Gregory's Compass

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. & fine Weather

[Page 372]
Saturday October ye 8th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & fine Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. D & O Aquila 170°. 52' E.
Variation by Azimuth
(12°. 11' E. Gregory's Compass
(13. 16½ E. Ship's Compass
(13. 54 E. Knight's Compass

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Struck a Porpoise & got him on board: many about the ship: He made a feast for the whole Ship's company.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Sunday October ye 9th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & fine Wr.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. O & D
(168°. 51 5/8' E. Dollond's Quadr.
(168. 48 E. Ramsden's Do.
(168. 41½E. A Bird's Do. of Capt. Cook's

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Showers

Sounded 22 fm. Sand & Shells

Remarks
Saw Land to the S.W.
At 18h. 00' the Eastern Extream bore S. 5°E. and a point beyond it had been shut in by this a few minutes before when bearing S. 7°W.
At 18h. 50' took Altitudes when ye highest part of the Island bore S. 5½°E.

Weather
Do. and flying Clouds
Sounded: 24 fathoms

Remarks
The Island appears of a moderate height and extremely beautiful; being every where almost covered with Trees many of which seem Pines & pretty much like those very remarkable ones we saw at the last Island.
At 21h. 47' took more Altitudes when Hill bore S. 27°W. (Long. by Dist. O & D 158°21½' E.
At 23h. 22' Tacked: the Hill bearing S. 32°E.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At Noon the Extreams of ye Island S. 50°E. & S. 7°W. The Hill S. 12°E.

[Page 373]
Monday October ye 10th 1774

Weather
Moderate wind & fine Weather
Do. Do.
Long. by O & D at 4h. 30', 168°. 6¼ ' E.

Remarks
The Boats being hoisted out I took the opportunity of seeing our new Discovery, and found the Shores exceeding Steep and Rocky, and in most places inaccessible on that Account. In one Place we found a short beach composed of very large Pebbles; but here there would have been no landing on Account of the surf, had it not been for some high Cliffy Rocks which stand at a little distance from the shore and break off the Sea in some Places, making it thereby tolerable landing, especially towards low-water, which as near as I could Judge would happen to Day between 5 & 6 oClock.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Near the shores the Ground is covered so thick with the New-Zeeland flax-Plant that it is scarce possible to get through it. This Plant was now nearly in its greatest perfection, the flowers being just opening, and as might naturally be expected from the Climate vastly more exuberant than at New Zeeland; but a little way in-land the woods were perfectly clear and easy to walk in. The Soil seemed to be exceeding Rich and deep resembling that of New Zeeland, and like it probably formed chiefly by ye decay of its Vegetable Production. The Pines mentioned above are something, but not very different in their Foliage from those we saw at the last Islands; but the wood is of a very different Texture having a red coarse Grain; whereas the other is close white and fine, and the Wood it seems, very tough. I saw many trees which were as thick, breast high, as two Men could fathom and at the same time exceeding straight and high: I believe much larger Ships than the Resolution might on Occasion supply themselves with Main-Masts.

Weather
Do. Do.
At 17h. 15' the Est. of ye Island S. 52°W. & S. 83& W. ye Hill S. 76°W. Sounded: 20 fm. At 17h. 55' the Extreams of ye Island N. 57½ W. & W. 78 W. The Hill S. 80°W. The small Islands S. 47°W. & E. 65 W.
Do. Sounded 29 fathoms
At 19h. 19' took Altitudes above the south point & one of ye Isles [indecipherable] one & bore N. 84½°W. A small Bay was on with ye Hill & bore N. 64½°W. The other Island bore S. 72°W.
At 9h. 15' the 2nd Isle on with ye hill at N. 52°W.
At 20 oClock ye 2nd Isle on with ye hill at N. 28°W.

Do. Do.

At 10h. 20' So. Pt. of ye Land appeared off ye Isle at [indecipherable].
At Noon ye Hill N. 4°W.

Remarks
I took on shore with me a Bag which I soon filled with Wood sorrel Sow-Thistle, and samphire, with which the shores in some places abound; but the greatest rarity we met with here was the Cabbage Tree, of which there are many, and we brought the Cabbages of several on board. Those Trees are of the same Genus with the Cocoa nut Tree & not readily distinguished from them at first sight; but they bear no Nuts at least none that are fit for use. What they call the Cabbage is properly speaking the Bud of the Tree, of which as the Tree has but a Stem without Branches Each tree produces but one Cabbage, which is situate at the Crown, where the leaves spring out, and is enclosed in their Stems. This Vegetable is not only wholesome but extreamly palatable also, and proved the most agreeable repast whe had had for some Time. Variat. by Azim. at 18½ hours 11°28¼', 11°;25 2/3', & 10°°15 1/3’E.

Tuesday, October ye 11th 1774

Weather
Moderate wind & fine Weather
Do. Do.
Variat. by Az.
(11°. 19' Ship's Comps.
(10. 51 1/3 Knight's Do.
(9. 47½ Gregory's Do.

Remarks
The Island we have Just left the Capt. Calls Norfolk Island after the Dutchess of Norfolk. It abounds with Rails, Parrots, and Pidgeons; the latter are exactly like those of New-Zeeland, and are perhaps the largest in the World, and as fine flavoured, when young. The Parrots are I think rather smaller than the Parrots there but their Plumage is more beautiful. Besides these there were many sea Birds such as Gulls, Gannets, Divers &c.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
We saw no Inhabitants nor the least reason to believe it had ever been trod by Human feet before.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
The Island is nearly triangular, each side of which is about five Miles. The highest Part (denominated above The hill) which is towards the North west Corner is in Latitude 29°. 51¾' S. The Longit. by the Watch is 167°. 21'; but by a mean of 28 [indecipherable] Observations fourteen of which were taken before & fourteen after leaving it, its Longit. is 168°. 16'. 25" E. There are soundings several miles off from it on every side that we were on from 20 to 33 fathoms, the bottom mostly sand & small shells; and there are two small Islands on its south side one at about a mile & the other 4 Miles dist. from it.
Longit. at 3 p.m. by Dist. O & D.
(167°. 37¾' Dollond
(167. 35½ E. Ramsden

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azim. A.M. 10°. 54¾' E.

Weather
Do. Do.

[Page 374]
Wednesday October ye 12th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & fine Weather

Do. Do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. Sun & D.
(167°. 36' E. Dollond's Quadr.
(167. 29 E. Ramsden's Qdr.
Variation by Azimuth 9°.35' E. Log Book.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 8°.53' E. Gregory's Compass.

Weather
Do. Do.

Thursday October ye 13th 1774

Weather
Moderate wind & fine Wr.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. of
(D. & Pegas. 168. 42¼ E.
(O & D 168. 18¼ E. Dollond
(O & D 168. 68½ E. Ramsden
D & Antares 168. 50½ E.
Variation by Azimuth 8°. 29' Gregory's Compass

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 8°. 47 2/3' E. Gregory's Comps.

Weather
Do. Do.

[Page 375]
Friday October ye 14th 1774

Weather
Moderate Wind & fine Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Longit. by Dist. of
(O & D 169°. 29' E. Dollond
(O & D 169. 43¼ E. Ramsden
(D & Antares 170. 17 E.
(D & Pegas. 168. 58 E.
Variation by Azimuth 10°. 29 1/3' E. Knight's Compass.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. small Rain
Do. Do.

Remarks
Variation by Azimuth 10°. 18 5/8' E. Knight's Compass.

Weather
Do. Cloudy
Do. and fine Weather

Saturday October ye 15th 1774

Weather
Brisk Wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. Do.
Do. & drearling Rain
Do. Do.

[Page 376]
Sunday, October ye 16th 1774

Weather
Brisk wind & flying Clouds
Do. Do.

Remarks
Tried soundings: no Ground with 140 fms.

Weather
Do. Lightning & Rain
Squally Do. Do.

Remarks
Split the Jib and top-gallant stay-sail.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Saw Cape Egmont bearing S. b. E. to E. Sounded 75 fs. Mud. Set ye studding sails.
Took Altitudes at 19h. 18' Mount Egmont bearing S. 17°E.

Weather
Do. Showers

Remarks
Hauled down the Studding sails.
At 22h. took more Altitudes, Cape Egmont N. 72 E.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
At Noon Cape Egmont bore N. 33°E. and the Extreams of the land bore N. 22°E. & S. 71°E. Dist. from Cape Egmont abt. 4 Leagues.

Monday October ye 17th 1774

Weather
Strong Wind & Cloudy
Do. Do.

Remarks
Carried away the Jib stay & halbard and split the Jib, great part of which blew over board & was lost.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Close reefed the fore and main Topsails, hand in the Mizen Topsails, got down the top-Gallant Yards & hauled on a wind. Carried away the weather fore topsail sheet: closed up the sail and knotted it.

Weather
Do. Do.

Remarks
Saw Stephen's Island S.E. b. E.
Carried away the Main Tack: closed up the sail and lent another.

Weather
More Moderate Do.

Remarks
Bore away: Stephen's Island S.S.E.
Let out the 3rd reef of the Topsails & got ye Mizen Topsail.
At 20h. saw Breakers extending from point Jackson to the [indecipherable] Bars & bore away.

Weather
Do. Do.
Do. Do.

Remarks
At 21h. found that the breakers did not extend so far as we imagined & that great part of what we took for them was caused by a strong Ripling of the Tide: stood through it, and then hauled up for Queen Charlotte's Sound. Soon after which we lost the [indecipherable] Wind by the intervention of the Hills, which caused it sometimes to be quite Calm & at others it blew in most violent gusts from almost every point of the Compass, so that the People were obliged to stand continually [indecipherable] braces to them the sails every 4 or 5 minutes as occasion required. In this manner we made a shift to scramble up within 3 or 4 Cable's length of ye anchoring Places, [indecipherable] finding the gusts come considerably out of the [indecipherable]. The anchor was let go in 16 fm. until a more favourable opportunity.

[Transcribed by Judy Gimbert, Judy Dawson, Robin Matthews, Helen Monaghan, Rex Minter, Ray King for the State Library of New South Wales]