Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales
Sir T. L. Mitchell's field, note & sketchbook, 1828-1830 from Sir Thomas Mitchell - papers, 1708-1855
C 42
[Apologies to the reader for any errors: Mitchell's writing is very small, often in pencil and the nautical and survey tables are abbreviated with the then current custom. Reference to Wallaba page 38, Boural Yas or Yar, Burrulanglo (Belanglo?] Bomaraks page 23]
[Page 1]
[Title page]
[Two watercolour sketches of the profiles of Madeira and Porto Santo]
[Highest point] said to be 5500 feet -- Madeira 37 Long 11 broad miles -- 240 N. by E. of Teneriffe
[Watercolour coastline with pencil notes]
Porto Santo bearing E. by N.
[Watercolour coastline with pencil notes, most indecipherable]
113.11
25.35
138.46
[Indecipherable] mountain grey-
15+ Sienna [indecipherable] to top of Cliffs
[indecipherable] broken to purple grey
From the line between the two pics. Extreme E x W ptg Mada being ---72.27.
1st Observed exty [extremity] is Do [ditto] .---54.55.
N exty Pt. St. En. exty (extreme)-Madeira--138.46-Elevn. pic 0.43'
-------------------------
Elevn of Pic Teneriffe
Dist abt ½ a mile [indecipherable] 4.30'
5 [indecipherable] Sa Cruz
[Page 3]
1st Obsn.
N exty Porto Santo w [with] is E. Exty Madeira 56.50.
Do. Wrn. Exty Mada. 99.40 104.47
Elevn. Highest pt Madeira---1.30---
Exty Wrn [Western?] Promty Madeira---43.'---44.28
N & (Sward Promty) Porto Santo---14.30
Elevn highest pic Pto. Santo (6) .25.'
2d Obsn
N pty [promontory?] Pto Sto. w En pty Madeira 11.50
En pty Mada w Wrn. Pty Do. 51.23
Highest pt. Madeira---1.58
Highest Pto. Santo---.-30.'
N pty Pto Santo w Sn Do. ([indecipherable])---17°13'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3d. Obsn.
N pty Pto Sto w Ese ptg Madeira 83.3-
Do. w pic. Madeira---108.46
Elevn pic---2.18-
En pty w Wrn ptg Madeira---57.48-
Pic w Wrn ptg Do---32.25
N pty. Pto Sto. w pic Pto Sto---2.55
pic Pto Sto w pic Mada---107.35-
Elevn pic Pto Sto--- -35.'
4th Obsn.
N exty Pto Sto w En pty Mada. 100.15
Do. w pic Pto Sto---2.52
E exty Mada w Wrn Do.---62.16-
Pic w Do. 32.55
5th On.
E exty Mada. w Pic.---31.12-
Pic w W. exty---61.47-
Extreme E. exty w W exty---74.18-
N Pty Pto. Sto. w Extreme E exty---116.24-
Pic. Do. w Do.---114.5-
N Pty Pto Sto w S exty (island)-14.24
6th On.
Elevn. Pic Madeira---3.13-
1st En Exty in Pic w 39.15
Do. 1 En exty w Wrn Exty --44.25-
Extreme E exty w - - Do. --- 59.57
Pic. w - Do. --- 20.25
1 Exty E Madeira w last Exty Madeira 17.50
1st Exty E. Madeira w - pic Pto. Sto.---68.17
Elevn. Ht Swty---3.3
Highest pic. probly. That obsd. Before 3.16
No SW [indecipherable] 1 Exty E Mada. 22.6
[indecipherable] w Do. ---26-
[indecipherable] 21
[Down the right hand side of page 3 is a drawing of an island above which are the words:] Porto Santa discovered in 1418 by the Portugese
[Page 4]
To gaze on nature naked [Indecipherable]
Before the wanton hand of man had violated her virgin piety
[Indecipherable]
Avge. Rate of Barr. [barometer] at Sydney. 30.313. Thurs. Tabt. 62 degrees
[Below is a table with the month and date in the first two columns, description in the next column, then two columns for the time with the left column being AM and the right column the PM, a column for barometric pressure and the last two for something indecipherable but it may be Therm A and D]
May 21 - Stonequarry Creek -Time AM -Time PM - Bar - Therm A - Therm B
-------------------.------------7 ½[pm] 30.192[Bar] 68 (20)[A] - 60 (18)[B]
Th 22 Do 8 ½[am] 30.141[Bar] 57 (14) [A] 52 (11)[B]
" West Bargo 6 1/2[pm] 29.498[Bar] 58 (20) [A] 42 (6) [B]
S 24. 2 miles E of Cutter's Inn, Mittagong 7 ½[pm] 28.890[Bar] 57 (14) [A] - 52 (11)[B]
Sun 25 Road on summit Mittagong Range-11 ½[am] 28.128[Bar] 60 (16) [A] - 60 (16) [B]
" " Gibraltar (High Rocky Westn exty of Mittagong Range 1/2[pm] 27.753[Bar] 62 ½ (17)[A] 60 (16) [B]
" " Plain under Mr. Oxley's huts at Wingecarribbee 7 ½ [pm] 28.350[Bar] 57 (14) [A] 55 (13) [B]
" 27 Geloro mountain 3[pm] 27.632[Bar] 62 (17) [A] 58 (15) [B]
" " Tents under Geloro, about 200 feet above creek 9[pm] 28.658[Bar] 50 (10) [A] 48 (9[B])
June 2 Midway creek, at road passing to the new country 8 ½ [pm] 28.328[Bar] -47 (9) [A] 45 (7) [B]
" 4 Junction of Paddy's river with the Wollondilly 7 ½ [pm] 28.500[Bar] 49 (10) [A] 44 (7) [B]
" 5 Flatridge between Nandialla hill and the ravine on the Wingecarrabee called Burrajanglo 9 ¼ [pm] 28.154[Bar] 54 (13) [A] 59 (16) [B]
" 6 Stn. 2d-Ht. over Burrajanglo on the Wingecarabee (-Y-) 10 ½ [am] 27.600[Bar] 49 (10) [A] 52 (11) [B]
" 7 Nundialla hill 1 ½ [pm] 27.324[Bar] 47 (8) [A] 47 (8) [B]
" 8 On the Wollondilly, 4 miles above Paddy's river 8 ½ [pm] 27.928[Bar] 49 (10) [A] 55 (13) [B]
" 9 On the same River-4 miles S. of Stuckey's station 8[pm] 28.050[Bar] 54 (12) [A] 48 (9) [B]
" 11 Tourang Mountain (Z) a Trigl. Station 11 ½ [am] 27.291[Bar] 51 (11) [A] 44 (7) [B]
" 17 Marulan 3[pm] 27.570[Bar] 49 (10) [A] 45 (8) [B]
" 19 Flat on the S.W. side Marulan (at Encampment) 10[am] 8.520[Bar] 36 (8) [A] 35 (7) [B]
1829 Excursion Northward in July 1829 - with another barometer
July 9 Wedy On the Hawkesbury at Wiseman's 4[pm] 29.967[Bar] 61 ½ (17[A])
" At junction new and old roads above yt 5[pm] 29.313[Bar] 6½(14) [A]
Fri 11 Twelve mile hollow 5[pm] 29.572[Bar] 52 (11) [A]
Sat. 12 Hungry Flat 6 ½ [pm] 29.480[Bar] 54 (12) [A] +2
Sun 13 Young Wisemans on the Wollombi 9[pm] 29.632[Bar] -38 (3) [A]
Tu. 15 Camp on Sugarloaf Creek N. under Warrawolong 9[am] 29.730[Bar] 52 (11) [A]
[Ditto] Summit of Warrawolong at Station Theodolite 1 ½ [pm] 29.982[Bar] 61 (16) [A]
29 Upper Wollombi-3 miles below Pender's station and at the mouth of Cedar creek 1[pm] 29.550[Bar] 64[A]
30 On Black Creek a mile below Campbell's Statn 10[am] 29.600[Bar] 56[A] 13 [B]
NB. A portion of mercury has escaped & the instt. fell 120[Bar]
31 Found a portion of mercury between the bag & the brass bottom screw- returned it to the Cylinder then the rate was (on Wollombi at Rodd's Stn) 9[am] 29.787[Bar] 53[A] 12[B]
Augt. 13 Denis's Dogkennel - 7 miles from 12 mile hollow 10[am] 29.384[Bar] 65[A] (18 ½)[B]
[Page 5]
May 21-1828. Left Liverpool at 1/2 p.7 AM-reached Mr Oxleys at 1/2 p.10.-Mrs Oxley dressed in black & crying at intervals-Saw Mr Cunningham & Capt Coghill shown into Mr. Oxley's room - he was very weak - He said that in a few days it wd. be all over with him - He hoped the Government would give me an exact transcript of his Treasury Commission that I might know what fees to take. That they must still be taken at the office. He trusted the Govt at home would allow him the land he asked, that he had resigned, his health not admitting of his doing business - That I should have heard say about me, ongoing up the country, but that it wd be better for me to say to them at first that, I had a specific duty transcript first to propose. - He seemed quite a skeleton. It was necessary to move him in bed, and Mrs Oxley came on one side a servant on the other and they thus lifted him [Indecipherable] up, - I left him quite [Indecipherable]. I askd [Indecipherable] see him [Indecipherable], it was a very painful sight - Young Macleay MacArthur from Camden & a Mr. Murdoch called and rode some way on with me on my road to Argyle. Mr McArthur put me on a path which took me across the Razorback Mountains by a short cut. These are very singular hills - rising to sharp edges not more than six feet wide at top - the sides very steep. At 1/2 p7-overtook the [Indecipherable] of Mr Dixon by the carts & bullocks at Stonequarry creek, when I encamped, sleeping in my own tent. –
May, 22.-Started at 8, with the Carts &c, and rode with them for some time. They were much for the cattle at the steep parts of the road - rode forward with Mr. McLeod to the house of Byrne at West Bargo - a Township), having crossed 3 miles before I got there the Bargo river, a fine pure running stream running EW? The only one, besides Cox & Macquarie, R. that I have seen in the country a very [Indecipherable] place at the ford for Easts - Encamped with the party.
May 23, Thursday. In the night inside the tent the Therm. 47 - outside covered with hoar frost - Bought 4 bushls Indn Corn for my own & government horses at 12/- a bushel. Left the party and proceeded towards Mittagong, passing though Bargo Brush - a tract of tolerable land, covered with stunted trees, and thick Brushwood, scarcely penetrable to horses, The termination of it is known by a small cleared spot, called the little forest - Travellers generally hasten through this tract which extends about 14 miles - there being little or no water or grass - and there being no room for any cooling breeze through the brush, it is generally very hot. - Through this Brush the road is on even ground, but needlessly very crooked, a defect which is observable on all the roads of this country. Between Bargo brush and the Wollondilly there is an extensive tract of country which, from the impervious nature of the brush around it, is very imperfectly known. The road at length opens as the ground becomes hilly, and at length descends a steep hill to the fine valley of open forest land, in which the Inn of Cutter is situated,- fine soil in this valley. Beyond it the road ascends a long steep pull - being the Mittagong Range, (as I was told) - When I got about half way up, there is a weather board hut on the left hand side - at a spot from where the country towards the Illawarra & 5 islands is seen, there are [small diagram of hills with the words “5 Islds"] several hills in that direction viz. those on the coast, and a few on the right, those on the left being part of the range down which the road descends to Cutter, as already stated. The intervening country appearing flat, extensive
and
[Page 6]
and covered with wood, but being in reality intersected by some impassable ravines, and consisting of a soil good for little or nothing; - A river, (as the man at the hut informed me,) comes through the heights on the left, and sweeping round enters the Nepean, receiving the waters of the intersecting ravine abovementioned. - Ascending a little higher, several considerable hills of conical shape appear to the Westward, especially one, which seems to be that observed in this direction at Sydney - It is called the Sugarloaf - or Jellore - the rocks hitherto of sandstone, now appear of basalt on the hills which the road crosses - in small pieces mixed with a light clayey soil. On crossing the ridge and descending, the wood opens into river flats thinly wooded, and appearing capable of producing fine grass in favourable seasons. This is the character of the country to the village or Township of Mittagong Bong Bong on the Wingecarribbee which I reached (Bowmans) at 1/2 p 4. The Wingecarribbee is a mere chain of stagnant ponds. Sent a note to Asst. Surveyor Elliot, by Jo. Ward a famous bush traveller - requesting him to meet me at Mr Oxleys.
[Mitchell changes from brown to blue ink]
[The rest of the text on this page has a diagram drawn vertically on the left and titled "View Eastwd from the road ascending Mittagong". Comments from left to right on the sketch are as follows:]
Road to Bargo brush
Coal cliffs
branch of the Nepean
Extensive tract apptly flat but intersected by cuttings
Mittagong Range on the West
Kangaroo ground on the right.
Saty 24th Set out on the way back expecting to meet the carts, but reached the tents, still remaining at Mittagong, where it had been found necessary by Mr. Dixon to get a wheel repaired, and which was done at Cutter's Inn. I slept in the tent. Two of Mr. Elliot's men came in, in search of some provisions & corn - while I was at Bong Bong. I sent them on to meet Mr. Elliots carts which were with mine. - This evening, the situation of the fires, the men & their tent before the door of mine had a very picturesque effect. Found near our encampment, some huts recently left by the natives - they consisted of pieces of bark flattened & joined like the roof of a house so as to cover about a square yard, under this whh. Is about a yard high - a native contrives to sit & sleep before a small fire. The married people (or a family) continue to join a few bows of trees, which they cover with bark or branches, thus making a hut something like a soldier's bivouac, only lower. They have always a small fire quite close to each hut. The Inn at Cutter's I did not enter it seems better than most on this road.
Sunday 25. Moved again with the carts, but just as we started Mr. Govett rode after to inform me that a wheel was again broken and must be repaired, it was repaired at Cutters while the Teams were joined to draw the other Carts up the Mittagong Range. At the head of the pass I quitted the road, and continued along the range to its Western extremity. There is a naked rocky spot called by the stock people near Gibraltar at this exty [extremity]: there I took a Baroml. observn. Returning (Mr. McLeod & I) missed the direction, & found ourselves on a ridge descending further South. As I knew it must lead to the plain on whh our road lay, we followed it, and on getting into the plain, we fell in with the carts very near M. Oxley's station at Wingecarribbee. On my way down the hill, my horse stumbled on a round stone, and fell forward. It was so steep that he could not have risen with me, and I threw myself over his head, falling against a small tree, fortunately without being at all hurt. The party encamped on a flat piece of smooth turf on a rich piece of soil - about 400 yards - SW of Mr. Oxley's huts. This is a fine property, the fine swelling hills, and extensive flats - both of rich soil - render it valuable - I shd think even in this interior part of the country. Prepared to proceed with the baggage horses to the mountain
[Page 7]
of Jellore next morning. At 6 o'clock - Mr. Elliot joined me, bringing with him the finished plans of his work, which are very satisfactory. Dined on excellent Kangaroo soup.
Monday May 26. A very rainy morning, which made me continue at the tents. Laid down Elliot's work on the general map. Mr. McLeod shot two beautiful bronze winged pigeons which seemed to me the Transparent[?] birds I ever saw, from the deeply varying dye of the feathers in the wings. - A man of the name of Bert being an excellent shot, and also Mssrs. Govett & McLeod - we had plenty of birds, which being cooked by Sam, Mr. Dixon's cook, afforded us a mess which would have been coveted and a great luxury at Sydney. The Barr. Fell from 28.350 to 28.100.
[Mitchell changes back from blue to brown ink from here]
Tuesday May 27. Moved with the packhorses & some provisions a tent etc - to Geloro mountain (commonly called Jelore) and encamped on a low extremity of it, on the SE side. Ascended the hill by an ascent of nearly 40 degrees on the same side, guided by a Stockman of Mr. Oxley's named Taylor - Found the view comprehended an extensive tract of country, and saw with much pleasure, the heights named K. Georges Mount, and Tomah on the Blue Mountains. Decided on making a Panoramic view with the Theodolite. Descended at Sunset, - Baro. 27.753. (Caught a Kangaroo)
Wednesday, May, 28, Ascended the hill, having previously divided 16 pages of my sketch book into Section lines, for the degrees - and command a Panoramic view. - Two hills towards the Cockbundoon Range seem admirably situated for stations for the Theodolites. - Worked till sunset when I descended, having buried the Theodolite & stand. Yesterday evening, the men had cut down most of the trees on the summit, and this morning they succeeded in clearing the top of the hill. The whole of the sources of the Nattai appear at one view from it, and I recognised some valuable points on the mountains, which I took angles on from the lighthouse. Scarcely completed half the panoramic view. I could see distantly with my naked eye the wall of the new gaol and with Theodolite glass, the 2 new windmills at work, etc. –
Thursday May 29, Ascended again, and worked till sunset, but did not finish. - At sunset the effect was fine, and the relief by the light and shade exceedingly clean. Descended at sunset, and dined on some dry bread and tea without sugar or milk - the stock having been too little originally. Mr Coghill's stockman came to guide us back, but he had to wait till the morning.
Friday May 30, Rose at 5, and dispatched the men home all but two, (we had originally 12 with 10 axes) - and ascended the hill once more with Mr. Dixon; - At 12 completed the entire outline of the panoramic view, with angles taken with the theodolite on every hill and point. I was on the hill when the sun rose, at which time the effect was very good, throwing the shadow of the hill on the woody range to the S.W. as accurately as a picture of it - I had much satisfaction in thus completing the whole of the view and angles at Geloro - which would render it quite unnecessary ever to return to it. After the first day, we found an easier ascent than that the guide showed us, by keeping the extremity of the mountain, which descends from it on the S. and thus gaining the rocky part at about half way up. We left seven trees standing, on the summit for an object, at other stations, and on one of these, a man carved my name, and nailed a copper penny piece to it, shewing the head of His Majesty K. Geo. IV.-
[Page 8]
This hill consists of Granite near the base, - the upper part is of Grauwacke, a old red sandstone, and a stone which looks like compact Felspar. The grass is good at the foot of the hill but my horse had fallen into the creek of water, and when I rode him home, he felt very ill and weak. - While at this hill, the evenings were passed by the fire, as we had forgot to take candles, and the full moon shone brightly every night - The silence of the surrounding mountains was occasionally broken by the howling of the native dog - a sound the most expressive imaginable, of hunger and desolation - On returning in the afternoon towards the tents at Wingecarribbee, we met Mr. Coghill, just as we began to doubt which was the right direction of the road. - He had been kind enough to come on purpose, to show us; the men who returned with the guide in the morning, having told him that we should return that afternoon. - Made an excellent dinner, on returning to my own tent, which felt as much a home to me, as any house I ever lived in. - When within a mile of it, I sent Mr. Cordeaux's servant with a cart; - he informed us that Mr. Oxley was dead and buried!
- see 21st
Saturday May 31st - My horse having fallen into the water at Geloro (the native pronunciation of Jelore) was very weak and ill. I therefore walked to the top of Gibraltar (the hill on the North of Mr. Oxley's station at Wingecarabbee, called by the natives Bourel [now Bowral]) and there I find about 30 points observed from Geloro - and also the true situation of Bourel itself - by an angle in K. Georges Mount - one of the Caermarthen Mountains. I got angles also on the two hills under the Cockbundoon range, whh are intended to be stations. This hill seems wholly comprised of the old red sandstone - which on the Western side takes regular forms like chrystals - and rests on granite, which appears on the lower extremities. - I returned in the evening well satisfied with the results of our Trigonometrical operations thus far, having succeeded in my attempt to connect Geloro & consequently the points to the South-wd. and with the Blue Mountains and the Lighthouse. After dinner, I learnt that the King of Nattai had "sat down" near my encampment, and in the evening I went to his fires; - there were several young men, at different fires - one black woman with her husband & child at another - and a widow with two children at another - Moyengully, the King, sat apart at another fire, he had a swelling on his right wrist and asked me for something to cure it - several native spears stood against a tree beside him, and as many more had been laid on the ground, but he got up and set these also against the tree. The young men, who lay between three fires were of a gay disposition that night, for they sang several songs, one was what they called the Bathurst song, another the Kangaroo song, - each line commencing "Kangaroo"-oo". - one commences, and the others join in the words etc - the old King added his bass voice occasionally to the strain. - One young fellow seemed one of the happiest beings I ever saw - without any covering but a skin over his hips, he lay on his belly on the ground - laughing heartily occasionally, and playing his legs carelessly about as he lay - his hair behind was filled with a profusion of black Eagles' feathers, which had a very appropriate & good effect - We wanted one of them to accompany us as a guide & interpreter to the Argyle country, but they all said they were strangers there. - They are at present much afraid of the Bathurst blacks, one of whom has been killed by the son of a Chief named Fry. - When we told them that as we were well armed, they would have nothing to fear, one of them said - "Ah - Shoot de B----rs"! -
[Page 9]
Sunday, 1st June, The King of Nattai having come to the tents, I could not resist the temptation of drawing his head, the profusion of woolly locks, seemed so very extraordinary. He sat to me very impatiently; I promised him a pair of trousers, and one of the men brought him a pair of Parramatta cloth, but he refused them saying they were not fit for a gentleman; - a good new pair, of grey cloth were then offered him, but he refused them also - saying he wanted a pair like mine pointing to them. I gave him a pair of thin ones, which he accepted and thanked me for. I would have drawn the feathered dandy too, but he had gone that morning towards the Cow pastures - "to look about" as the King said. - I afterwards wrote Mr. Elliots instructions, by which he is directed to trace the heads of the ravines entering the Shoalhaven river & the course of that river between the boundary of Camden and Barber's hut - on the road to Dr. Reid's. I protracted also this morning the angles fixing the principal points in advance, on the general map, in order to ascertain the situation of the hills - which I intend for my two next stations. I ascertain thus, that the next station is not, as I had been informed, on the North side of the Wingecarribbee but on the Argyle side, and therefore, instead of detaching the horses & men again as I intended - I decided on proceeding with the whole party - to where the road to Lake George etc, crosses the Wollondilly, and from that point to take a light party to the hill. –
Monday 2d. June Moved the party on the road to the "new country" - leaving Mr Elliots party at Bong Bong, - Mr. Elliot had that morning measured a base, & taking three bearings on my station at Gibraltar, for the purpose of connecting the triangles with the chain surveys of the colony. He had therefore to trace from the base to the junction of a small creek which runs from Mr. Oxley's to the Wingecarrabee, and I had to wait while he plotted this week at the Inn at Bong Bong. - There we found that the wheel of Mr. Govett's dray required repairing, and also one of Mr. Dixon's wheels. - As there is a Smith at Bong Bong, and Mr. Elliot would not immediately want his dray. I ordered the wheels to be exchanged, and to be repaired for Mr Elliots use without delay, at Bong Bong. - When I rode on, in the afternoon, I found the Bullocks had not got further than Midway Creek about 4 miles from Bung Bung! –
Tuesday. 3d. June, I rode forward to look for the hill in question, expecting the bullocks would reach Pebby's station near Nandialla hill in the evening. After riding 16 miles, I ascended Nandialla hill (with Mr. McLeod) - Nandialla Bill, who had come as guide took care of the horses below; I then found that the hill in advance[?] of which I was, - is situated between the Wolondilly and Wingecarabee rivers, - returned & having left the horses at Pebbys, set off at 5 PM - to hunt the drays, but after walking 5 miles, we saw nothing of them & returned in the dark, hungry, and tired to Pebby's bark hut, where we passed the night.
[Mitchell changes back to brown ink here]
Wednesday. 4th. June, Mr. McLeod walked back to the ploughed ground (a piece of ground having naturally an appearance of furrows,) - 7 miles, to find, as he thought, the carts: but he there ascertained that they had gone on, the preceding day, towards the Wolondilly! - We then
[Page 10]
proceeded to the Wollondilly, when we found them encamped at Paddy's river - alias Uringalla - The afternoon set in very rainy, and at the same time very cold. Mr. McLeod rode over to Mr. McArthur's, and there learnt that I had been gazetted as Survr. Genl. –
Thursday 5, June - Mr. McArthur called at the Tents. It was very cloudy and cold with rain; however I set out for the height observed from Jellore, supposed to be called Mulindroba - having Nundialla Bill for a guide. - We passed by the West side of Nundialla where I pointed out the desired hill to him, and he said it was on the other side the Wingecarabee, which I could not believe - We at length arrived on the precipitous bank of a ravine, and on the other side was the hill - We encamped here, arguably sheltered by high trees & the fall of the hill, from the bitter wind, and warmed by enormous fires, the fallen timber being very abundant. - As we arrived, the dogs were so fortunate as to kill a kangaroo. There was tolerable grass for the cattle.
Friday 6, June, - Left our horses, & also the three packhorses at the camp, and descended the rocks on foot; - crossing the ravine, the guide discovered that the hill was on this side the Wingecarabee after all. - We ascended the rocky cliffs with more ease than I expected, and the men having cut down the trees most in the way, I got a good number of angles: the Blue mountain points fixed from Sydney, were not, however, visible - I took, with the camera lucida, a sketch of the mountains on the Cockbundoon river, and I took angles on the principal points, meaning to fix them, from Nundialla hill tomorrow, for the purpose of finding the situation of the Cockbundoon River. This Hill consists of a stratum of conglomerated water worn stones - of Quartz, Limestone & mica, above it is a rock resembling Limestone, ( ) and beneath a similar rock ( ) - on which petrified plants appear. - Altogether it seems an interesting hill to the Geologist. - The country we passed through was upon the whole, very good for sheep, with favourable gullies for cattle, the rocks consists of decomposed Quartz chiefly. - The wood is open forest, generally.
Saturday 7, June, - Started early, and reached Nundialla by a perfectly flat and broad ridge, unbroken from the plain of encampment to the hill itself which it joins on the North side - We passed two small bare spots which are, in wet weather, little lakes, - the layout containing about 2 acres is called "the Race course", by the Stockmen - Took angles from Nundialla - on various points, having cut down trees for the purpose where necessary. –
Wrote Mr. Elliot this morning, additional instructions requiring him to insert the native names, (as many as possible in his map of that part of Argyle, assigned to him to survey. –
Nundialla hill is very good for sheep - It consists of forming cubes, prisms, wedges & the sides being very smooth and in most, very irregular. The base of the hill, and the adjacent country consists of Granite.
Sunday, 8th June, Mr. Hoddle called at the Tents, being as he said on his way to Sydney, to complain of bad pork lately supplied to him; - he had left all his plans at 'Black Bob's Creek! I ordered him to send them immediately to me, and sent a man with him to bring them. - Wrote by him to Mr. Laidley Mr. Cordeaux, and Mrs [Walker?]
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Started with the Dray's then at 2 PM; on the road towards the new country, by the right bank of the Wollondilly, Got about 4 miles on, encamping on the Wollondilly, - While at Paddy's river, one of Mr. Govett's Bullocks, (which had been supplied from Carter's barracks) was found missing, during my absence at Burrujanglo. I halted this forenoon till 2, & sent all the men in search of it, but in vain; it had been almost useless on the road, and was supposed to have died, but as it was not found, I am unwilling to think so, - I at first thought of leaving Mr. Govett and his party here until they found it; but on his representing that he could not get his dray uphill without the assistance of our team, I agreed to allow him to come on. - The spot where the road crosses Paddy's river (or the Uringalla) is so exposed to winds, that Mr Govett wanted to call it Eolian valley. - I was very glad to quit it. - I traced the road for two miles, from Paddy's river, with the pocket sextant & level staves set to six feet, ascertaining afterwards, the distance, by Dr Wollaston’s tables - this method I found to answer very well.
Monday, 9th June, Moved again, and as the carts proceeded by this road, with Mr. Dixon, I kept along the bank of the Wollondilly with Mr McLeod - who informed me that the spot opposite where we were was called [blank space].- The river was at this time a chain of deep ponds; in these the water is very clear and good - Ducks were abundant, of several kinds; - the ornithorinchus paradoxus, was also frequently shot. - The general colour of the ground was a pale red, from the parched grass - which covered equally the parts of the river above water, - indeed, the spots between the ponds, are so much elevated above the beds of the water, that there is no appearance of the continuous bed of a river, like one in Europe, and this singular character in a river running through a course of 200 miles, is the most striking thing I observed - The country on this part of the Wollondilly, is generally fine open forest land, - good, in favourable seasons, for sheep and cattle; The road from Paddy's river, along the East bank of the Wollondilly has never been made, and is consequently full of turnings. I visited the Limestone Reserve, which is about a mile NW, from Stuckey's station, - It consists of blocks of finely variegated marble, red, blue, & yellow; - occurring on a flat of about 200 acres in extent - in mass, resting on [blank space] – the present quarry has been laid open by the torrent which runs in the gully in which this marble is found, - In another gully about 200 yards N of this - the [blank space] occurs without any appearance of marble above it, so that the bed of marble seems a partial deposit. The same rock of [blank space] occurs generally in the bed of the Wollondilly, with a water worn stone resembling Limestone.
At Stuckey's the country has a fine park like appearance. Beyond it - Large blocks of granite, occur near the road. Encamped on the Wollondilly under the Eastern extremity of Cockbundoon Range, on a fine sheltered flat with tolerable grass.
Tuesday 10th June, Sent Mr. Dixon, with guns & axes to clear the hill on the East of the camp, observed on Geloro, for a trigonomtl station. I remained at home to make up my protracting. I also drew an eagle's head, & a view on the Wolondilly.
Wednesday 11, June, Ascended the hill (Toongobidya) and had a beautiful view of the country to the South. The Mulwanaa or Goulburn plains-extending towards the Southwest, and studded
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with cattle presented a new and pleasing variety to the scene, which had been uniformly woody until now. - Beyond lay a range of European looking hills, and further, far beyond these, appeared the finely pointed & broken mountains of St. Vincents Country, and the lofty range of Bendoura. I still saw, looking back - my station in Geloro - but no other point, save the subsequent stations and one on the High range (19), could be seen. - This hill which had looked like a pyramid from the North - had its elevated part on the Southern point of a wedge shaped summit, and consequently it was necessary to cut many more trees than I had thought would be necessary.
Thursday 12, June, The men still engaged cutting trees on Toongabidya - sketched 120° of the horizon. Toongabidya consists wholly of a very hard calcareous stone, full of veins of quartz.
Friday 13th, June, The wood being wholly cleared, I completed greater part of the view and angles, -
Saturday 14, June, Ascended Tongobidya, once more and completed entirely, the work to be done on its summit, - This day I sent Mr. Govett and Mr. McLeod to trace the water course on the East of this hill running towards the Wollondilly, they succeeded in this work to within a mile or two of the Wollondilly having found a fine chain of ponds with water. Mr. Allen J.P. called, and left a very kind note inviting me, and any of my gentlemen, to dine with him tomorrow also to send over two men for some fresh meat & vegetables to carry back.
Sunday 15th, June, Rode over to Mr. Allans, with Mr. Dixon, and dined there - Two men also went over and carried back a quantity of fresh meat for the men, Mssrs Govette & McLeod, and also for myself & Mr Dixon - 6. lbs of Fresh Butter, and a stock of fresh vegetables. Mr. Bradley, a neighbouring settler called. - We were very hospitably entertained - Mrs Allan, a very interesting woman, and very pretty healthy children. - It set in a dark rainy night, and we found our way back in the dark, through the woods with difficulty. - Mr. Allan assured me that there was plenty of vacant land on the plains, one thing he told me will be very troublesome to rectify; it appears that the land has not been measured as charted in the maps, in any part of this country, but by parallelograms, taking in the flats, and excluding the mountains. This was done by Mr. Ralfe first for Hannibal McArthur on his grant here, by Mr. Oxley's order, and then by him for the other settlers; but Mr. O. had ordered them to be charted differently on the map, and had said, that they should be remeasured according to the plan.- The plains, which I was upon this day for the first time, seemed to me a very pleasing sight, and the fine smooth turf looked like an extensive park.
Monday 16th June. Rode with Mr. Allan, Mr. Bradley & Mr. Dixon to the summit of Tourang, (the proper name of Tongobidya) with an intelligent native, who pointed out the principal hills & telling us the name of each, and also the direction of Lake Bathurst & George etc. - Informed by Mr Allan that there are various fine spots about the plains all vacant, also at Tarlo- he mentioned particularly a Reserve marked by Ralfe which he had proposed to Coll. Morisset & whh being marked as Reserve, I had refused, while at Sydney.
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Yas or Yar plains are very distant, but are much more extensive than these called Goulburn or Mulwarree plains.
Tuesday, 19th June. Moved to the base of the Marulan hill, & encamped on a flat there with good water, being accompanied by the native already mentioned. On the summit, the view commands the rocky precipices overhanging the Shoalhaven River, and the various summits to the Eastward of the Mittagong range. The whole of the lower part of Argyle is seen at once from the hill; I cut the trees on the North & S. East sides; and fixed many points towards Curroebilly and Gourock Mountains. - In the evening the natives sung a good English song, and also various native songs, one, the kangaroo song seemed very poetical, according to his description of it - one verse seemed to be a description of the implements, another the unsuccessful chase, another the night passing, another day break next day - another the chase and naming Worrong, Marulan & other mountains; and, finally the death of the Kangaroo. I got him to repeat the words slowly, and then, having written them down, I repeated them to him, when he said "Bel (not) stupid fellow you, like other white fellows." When I asked him, however to explain the meaning of each word - I found that one meant Kangaroo, another Emu, another limbs, another liver, heart, etc - which annoyed us a good deal, - this astronomy was full of figures of men & kangaroos; the moon was once a black cockatoo etc etc - In the morning he found some hostile marks on the neighbouring trees, which had been made by the natives of Lake George, on an incursion about a year before - they were cut with Tomahawks on different trees as follows - [three small sketches of tree trunks illustrating the “hostile marks"] This native left us on pretence of seeing his friends on a plain at Tongobidya and did not return. He was a very intelligent fellow. - his native name "Primbrubna" –
Wednesday 18th June. Went first to Natary, and then to the hill, where the wood was scarcely enough cut; took angles on the distant mountains to the S. East.
Thursday 19th June. Completed the angles from Marulan observing points on the Shoalhaven, Mittagong range etc. This hill consists wholly of the old red sandstone, and a conglomerate of a peculiar character. Ironstone occurs in mass near its base. It has 3 heads, and the connecting Tongues descending on the North, have much the character of the Pyrenean hills. The sources on the South & East sides seem those of Paddy's river, & some of the Shoalhaven gullies. The flats between the hills are well watered, and of good soil, the hills brushy & scrubby. To the N. & W. the land is open forest, and upon the whole, good grazing ground.
Friday 20th, June. Moved to Natary, & took some useful angles; then returned home. Natary is a small hill NW. of Marulan - consisting entirely of basalt. - Found Joe Wyld at the tents with a letter from Mr. Atkinson stating that the D. Commissy. Genl. had requested him to supply me with provisions & forage, & begging me to say what I should require, & when I should send, also that no forage could be found in the country. I answered that I should
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require rations for two surveying parties consisting of 14 men in all in about 3 weeks, and that Mr. Elliot would require half as much more very soon thereafter, - and that I should send about that time, if I did not previously hear from him to the contrary.
Saturday 21st, June, [1828] - Moved the party to the neighbourhood of Mr Allans, - I rode with Mr. Allan to look at the land on the Wollondilly, by Capt. Rossi's station and the Reserves. The ground between Rossi & the township which will be left vacant when his land will be measured, is rather rocky, but with little wood, and tolerable soil; but there are no alluvial flats on the river, nor Limestone, both of which are found on Rossi's and the ground between him and Langhorne. - On this last mentioned spot, there is a fine piece of alluvial land on the river, but the background is scrubby, & brushy. McAlister who once occupied this land says little in its favour. On the opposite bank there is a corner vacant by the manner in which McArthur & Moore's land has been measured, as it contains lime, query, whether it should not be reserved pro bono publico. Dined at Mr. Allans. - I also walked with him and Mr McAlister to look at the Township land - the situation seems most eligible on the flat at the junction of the streams opposite his house. It appears, however that Mr. Oxley had marked the ground below the junction for this purpose, and that Mr Allan having got the best of this ground measured to himself is therefore very desirous to fix it in this, or any other situation. - Mem. The roads from Bathurst, and the Wollondilly meet near this point.
Sunday 22d. June, Moved again, passing through Tarlo, and encamping near Church hill on a creek called Murray. - The ground on the Cockbundoon ridge is very good, and fit either for grass or cultivation - it is well watered - and the prevailing rock is basalt, - on which, generally, is the best soil. - This soil is of two kinds, the first quality is generally found on the hills, and is easily distinguished by its red colour; the other sort is very dark coloured, and occurs of the alluvial flats, and in the bottom of most of the ravines - the timber is very open; the hills steep. There are two bad ridges to be got over, on this road, the one is before reaching Tarlo, from Goulburn plains; the other at Church hill nearly opposite the break in the range, called Murrang. This day the carts were got across the first with great difficulty. In both, the difficult ascent is on the side towards Goulburn Plains. - This day discovered that the Barometer was unserviceable.
Monday 23d. June, Left the carts, with orders to proceed forward to Mr. McAlister's station, while I went to the break in the great range, where I had observed a hill from Jellore, being accompanied by Mr McLeod - From this I had a good view of the distant stations, and of the river passing through the range, which in this part is very remarkable, from the singular turning it takes in the very gap of the range. Took angles also from a station on the crest - which is here so narrow that we could only hold it with our hands as we climbed along the side. The stone is a very compact sandstone, the old formation, there being a tendency to chrystalization in the fragments. On returning to where the horses had been left below - Mr McLeod ran on to catch them, which set them off at a gallop, and they immediately disappeared amongst the woody
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gullies! Mr M. at the same time dropt the bridles, which circumstance occasioned some delay. - I set out, to travel on foot 14 miles, when, fortunately, I saw one of our tents at the old encampment. I went gladly to it, and there found Mr. Govett who told me that the bullocks could not ascend the hill, and that Mr. Dixon had therefore gone forward with the light cart to meet me at the place ordered. I now sent three men to look for the horses, and they soon found them but it was difficult to take them. Rode on by moonlight to the end of the journey, and reached Mr. McAlister's about 11. –
Tuesday 24th June, Mr. McAlister kindly sent his team of bullocks, to bring forward our carts, while we moved to Burraburra Lagoon and this team brought them the same night, only one of the shafts of the cart broke, so that Mr McAlister had to lend us the team once more to bring on the load of that cart. This morning Mr McAlister rode with me to Bura Lagoon, and shewed me some of the finest land I have ever seen in the colony, to the SW. of the Lagoon, adjoining Mr McArthur's land. It consists of extensive open alluvial flats, and hills of the richest soil, all on basaltic rock.
Wednesday 25th June,
Commenced a trace Nor Eastward for the boundary of Argyle, and after about a mile due East, we found the head of a small rivulet, which keeping an Easterly direction joins the Trialgong creek - At the place where these waters pop through the Cockbundoon range - These united from a river called the Guinyecor [now called Guineacor] - which follows the very direction in which a natural boundary was wanted. - The soil was excellent and the timber not thick along the banks of the ravine, until we approached the high range. - The bed then became very rocky and the banks very precipitous. The first hill we saw, was one (of easy access) - on which I had already taken several angles!. This was very fortunate.
Thursday 26 June, Sent Mr. Dixon down the Guinecor, to make a trace of it, while I moved along a road which crosses the Cockbundoon range E. of Mr. McAlisters Flat, Mr McA. rode with me, and I examined the ridges on the road to the summit of the range. We then went to look at the point over the Guinecor - it was then late and we hastened back, and found the tents about 2 miles under the hill. Mr McA. dined with me & then returned with his man Long Bill, who had guided the carts along the range.
Friday 27 June, Cloudy foggy rainy morning, went back to the station on the ridge with the men and axes, and then took as many angles as I could on the mountains enclosing the Guinecor. On returning I found Mr Dixon with Messrs. Govett & McLeod had come home, having got some way below the range, but then provisions were out and they were compelled to return.
Saturday 28th, June - Rode to the summit of Kingambulan, with Mr Dixon, the native Billy of Kerrawary and four men
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with axes, we cleared a part, and I took angles on various points. This hill proves to be 6 of Mulindroba, and overlooks the junction of the Cockbundoon with the Wollondilly. These rivers join among the descending slopes of Nerudialla Hills, in a very singular manner.
Thursday 29 June - rather rainy looking. I protracted some angles on the prepared folding map. Mssrs Govett & McLeod set out for the spot where Mr. Ralfe left off the survey of the Cockbundoon, with orders to trace that river to where the road to Arthursleigh crosses it. - Near the present encampment is the station of Mr Ellis, who went to shew Mr Govett the point. This station is on a chain of ponds which the road followed from the Cockbundoon range; it empties itself in the Guinecor.
Monday 30, June. Mr Dixon went with four men & a week's provisions to resume the survey of the Guinecor, and to trace the Wollondilly to where he formerly left off. I undertook myself the survey of the Wollondilly between the Guinecor and Paddy's river, and this day I went to the hills called Werrikinan and took angles on the Cockbundoon River, the native and his "gin" accompanying. - My horses shoes rather loose! –
Tuesday 1st July. [1828] A very rainy morning; protracted some of the work. - Mr. Ellis sent me a sheep.
Wednesday 2d. July. Very cold - Walked to Kingambulan with the native, and took angles from that point, and also from Donguin and Womangangally on the river: fixing the house of Arthursleigh etc etc - returned after dusk, and found Mr. Govett & Mr. McLeod without shoes, they having returned yesterday morning in consequence of the rain; and having got quite wet walking home in it; their horses being still where they left them on the river, as they could not find them! - I was by no means pleased at this, especially as this was a good day for surveying. - They had been unable to strike a light the second night, their timber being wet, and altogether the affair was very unfortunate.
Thursday 3d. July. - Showery. - Protracted angles. –
Friday - 4th July. - Snowing in the morning, I directed Mssrs. Govett and McLeod to trace the Banemir creek (on which we were encamped to its junction with the Guinecor. I set out myself with the intention of extending the survey of the Wollondilly trigonometrically to Paddy's river. I took one man, Bates, and Billy, the native, carrying also as I thought a sufficient supply of provisions for that day & next morning, I crossed the Cockbundoon, 3 miles above it in intersecting the different turnings of that river, and fixing myself by means of the station pointer, at different stations on my way, and finally descended to the bed of the Wollondilly as the sun set. - Passed the night very comfortably, Bates made a good fire, and cut boughs of the gum tree, making me a good cover above, - to enable me to sleep off the ground, I had sleepers cut about two feet long, and about as thick as a mans arm, Gum leaves being strewed on these, and a stone placed at the head and foot, to keep them together, and to form at one end a pillow I slept very comfortably in my cloak: my feet being obliquely towards the fire. The fragrance of the gum leaves dangling in my face added a charm to this bower, the spontaneous handiwork of a robber, and a savage; my only companions; while the murmur of the waters of the Wollondilly lulled me to sleep.
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Saturday 5th July - This morning presented a scene which would have formed a fine study for Salvator - The romantic crags overhanging the Wollondilly, while their pointed tops were gilded by the rising sun were buried in a grey or purple mass of shade below; where the breadth was preserved and encreased by the dark shade of the clear stream, and the shady river oaks, which generally grow on its banks. - The white fantastic stumps of this tree in a state of decay, here and there deepened the shades, by striking contrasts, and, blending with the most picturesque masses of white rock imaginable, gave a closer resemblance to Salvator Rosa's landscapes, than I had hitherto seen in nature. The sublime solitude had probably never been before interrupted in that part by man! - No human being was, perhaps, within a distance of many miles: - A surveyor cannot afford time for the contemplation of scenery - however. We scrambled up the precipices to the most favorable points - over rocks, where the Warrang, sat basking in the morning sun, apparently without fear - secure in the rocky recesses there. A tantalizing sight to the native, who had brought no spears with him. After some laborious work I got to the last hill on the Wollondilly, between these rocks and Paddy's river - overlooking the house of Mr McArthur, - it was now 1/2 p 2 - we were very hungry and fatigued - but we had about 15 miles to walk home over a tremendous country - The native had forgotten his pipe & tobacco bag, and in order to seek for it, he took as a road, crossing the high hill where he had left it, by which direction, we had to cross several very deep ravines, the sides of which were so steep that it was dangerous to follow each other on account of the falling fragments of rock - I do not remember ever having felt more tired than I did on ascending the last ridge; this was chiefly owing to hunger however for the servant Sam, had only put up four cold mutton chops, which I had to divide on the previous evening with the native and I had eaten nothing from that time. The Cockbundoon River on descending to the Wollondilly runs in a bed so deep beneath the surrounding country, that the only means of conveying us across it, is by bringing carts to meet on the opposite banks, and carrying the goods to be transported, by men across. - Unlike the mountains of Europe, which are generally steepest near the summits, here the lowest part of the hills, or ravines is the most inclined and the immediate banks of the Wollondilly and Cockbundoon etc are, in this manner, impassable, in proportion to the magnitude of the river and length of its previous course - It is here that the Wollondilly first assumes this formidable character; above Paddy's river, it flows nearly on the level of the surrounding country. The ground is not rich, but it affords good pasturage, and the cattle of Mr McArthur overrun the right bank of the Cockbundoon. - A Mr. Ellis has a station in the country lying between that river and the Guinecor. It was near our encampment, and he kindly sent me a sheep - some lamb and some preserved quinces, while I was his neighbour; and although I told him on my arrival there, that I was not aware of any right he
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had to fix himself there etc. The tract of country between the Guinecor, the Cockbundoon, and the Wollondilly, is accessible only on one side, namely that next the Cockbundoon range - It is intersected by ravines, which are at the upper part shallow and flat with good grass, but which become rapidly steep sided and deep, descending to the different rivers. Nearly its whole extent between the range and the Wollondilly, is intersected by a small chain of ponds called the Banemir creek, which when near the Wollondilly turns abruptly to the left, descending amongst deep gullies to the Guinecor, under a hill called Kerrier. - It is down this valley or chain of ponds that the road of communication from the Cockbundoon range descends - leading to Ellis's hut, - and thence along the ridge of Womangangally and Perimbunagully to the Wollondilly, which it crosses a mile below the junction of the Wingecarribee, and ascends the opposite hill to Bullio. Another branch turns to the right from Ellis's to the bank of the Cockbundoon river - at which point - a cart road meets at the other side, but neither carriages, nor even horses, can pass the river. - Near the Wollondilly the granite appears and the strata which on the Cockbundoon inclines to the interior, here dips towards the Sea or from the granite, according to Geological theory. The hills are stoney, and the good parts are not by any means so good as the upper side of the range. On returning home found Mr. Dixon had arrived having completed the survey of the Guinecor, and the Wollondilly between that and the junction of the Wingecarabee. - Letters had also arrived by Will - a constable, from Mr. Allan, Mr. Atkinson, Mr. Laidley, & Mr. Elliot.-
Saturday Sunday. 6th July,- Wrote to Mr. Atkinson enclosing Requisitions on the Commissariat at Liverpool for provisions for Mr. Dixon's & Govett's parties for three months, or to the 4th Novr. and for my party to the being six weeks more - also a receipt to Mr. Atkinson for six weeks forage for the Government horses, informing him, that in about two weeks I should send to him for the provisioning, and that should any be supplied by him, I should be glad to give him any other receipt necessary! Wrote a note also to Mr Allan, saying that I should probably be able to visit him for a day in about two weeks. During the remainder of the day, protracted angles.
Monday. 7th July. *[see bottom of next page] Sent Messrs. Govett & McLeod back to complete the survey of the Cockbundoon with a week's provisions; Mr. Dixon to survey the Wollondilly from the junction of the Guinecor to where he formerly left off, and I proceeded myself to complete the survey of that river by surveying its banks between the Wingecarabee and Paddy's river. - I therefore proceeded to the hill called Perimbunagully, and took angles from it and another.
Tuesday, 8th July. Set off early for the purpose of reaching the junction of the Wingecarabee, and connected that and Mr. Dixon's survey with the trigonometrical operation. The sky threatened some terrible weather and I hastened all I could: but the hills become more favourable and numerous for my operation as I approached these rivers, which in-
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duced me to delay so much, and so unavoidably, that at 5 o'clock, I was still near the junction of the Wingecarabee, I then completed satisfactorily, my work and made what haste I could to gain the line of marked trees, but ere I could make them, having taken a near direction across a mountain range for that purpose, it was quite dark, and rainy, - so that I could only see the compass by making Bates, who was with me, strike his flint above it. I thus groped on from mountain to mountain for some time, knowing the road lay along the heights, (and it would have been dangerous to have ventured into the ravines on account of the precipices and deep gullies,) - our progress thus was so slow, in proportion to our distance from home, that I was beginning to be reconciled to a night in the bush - when I thought I heard the report of a gun, and some time after I felt certain I heard another; this convinced me that we had made good progress towards home, and that the course I had travelled by compass, was the right one. Still I was not acquainted with the hills on which I was, - at length Bates found "a marked tree"! - sometime after, another, then another; but then we lost them, and were just giving up the search, when on the opposite side of the hill we found another! - Again we advanced groping from one tree to another, till no more could be found, and I then decided on remaining there till daylight- , - hitherto I had felt sure of having at least, a fire, and we looked or rather felt for a fallen tree; we soon found one, and proceeded to strike a light, but the tinder was not in a box, and the spark could not be directed on it in the dark! - We hobbled the horse and took off the saddle - and lay down beside and as close to, the old tree as possible, the wind roared and the rain poured in torrents till morning; I managed however to sleep in it, as cold and sodded, as the earth on which I lay, or the dead who lie under it, I watched impatiently til morning, and felt some anxiety about finding my horse; but the first object I recognised was my horse standing motionless within a few yards of me with his tail to the storm. We soon saddled him, I found the marked trees immediately, and discovered that I had passed the night within three miles of my tent.
Wednesday 9th July. Protracted part of my work on a clean sheet. The day was showery.
Thursday 10th July - The native Billy, (whose services would have saved me from the wet night in the bush,) returned, and partly agreed to remain with me for another ten days, on condition of getting a blanket for his gin (or wife).
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*This morning the ten days agreed on being out, (the number was originally explained by holding up the two open hands.) Billy the native asked for his blanket and I gave him an order accordingly on Mr McAlister's stockman, and he went off with it.
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I readily agreed to this; for he was very useful in guiding me through the woods home after dark - these people seem to have an instinctive knowledge of the ground and a recollection or idea, as true as the magnet, of the direction in which every spot within their knowledge lies. The hills of New S. Wales are not connected like European features, but are generally connected by low necks sometimes on the broad side of a long hill, or in others, where one would expect to find a gully or stream, - Without search a native follows the proper slope and direction, never failing by night or day, to guide either by the best or the most direct road. - This morning I returned to the Wollondilly, surveying that portion East of Kingambulan, thereby joining my work, and completing the whole line of the Wollondilly. On returning found Messrs. Govett & McLeod had returned, having completed the trace of the Cockbundoon as far as required, west to about two miles below the great turn Eastward of that river. Received also a letter from Mr. Allan with the late newspapers and some fresh butter. This day I was enabled to ride, Sam having managed to put a shoe on my horse.
Friday, 11th July. This morning while I was at breakfast Mr. Dixon came in, having completed his portion of the Wollondilly - thus the plan of that river is complete from its sources to the Sea. Moved the greater portion of the party back to Burabura, our provisions being out, Mssrs Govett & McLeod tracing on their way, the Banemir creek to its source, and Mr Dixon returning direct to plot his work; - I proceeded along the hills on each side of the creek, and laid in about three miles of the Cockbundoon, to meet the work of Mr. Govett - encamping at the foot of the Cockbundoon range. This morning, the native refused to go again to the hills, and rocks, as he said; his gin was heavily laden, and he had been making spears etc for the last day, so I was obliged to make the best shift I could without him. I believe his gin was the cause of his going off.
Saturday 12 July. - Proceeded with the Theodolite to the most Northern station on the Cockbundoon range called Meenberry [or Munberry], (or 12) and having seen Jellore I took a number of valuable angles, - as well as from the hill immediately over the head of the creek and the road, which formed a base for the points of the detail on the Guinecor. - I also took the angle of elevn. or depression of various points on Jellore - Mulindroba, and Nundialla. Returned, at dusk to my headquarters on Burabura lake. The carts were supplied in passing with another sheep, according to orders left by Mr. McAlister with his stock keeper at the huts.
Sunday 13th. July - A rainy, very cold day. Protracted some of the work on the Wollondilly River.
Monday 14th. July - Moved the carts and baggage to Mr. McAlister's station, while I and Mr. Dixon proceeded with the trace of the County Boundary - continuing the measurement from the E [symbol like a reverse "c"] of Burr-burra Lagoon, shaving along
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its S. Eastern side to a tree marked on four sides - at its S. C - continued the Line S.S.W. along the dividing range - which I kept, tracing it this day nearly seven miles - SSW. and South - took a direction E.N.E. by compass, and brought the party thus straight to our own new camp a Mr McAlisters after riding about four miles. On passing the hut, I found Mr. McAlister had come home, and I went after dinner to his hut, to hear the news - he had called at my house in Sydney, and left word where letters might be sent him for me, but he got none! –
Tuesday 15th. July - Sent Mr Dixon and Mr. Govett to complete the trace of the Karrawary rivulet - (the 2d branch of the Cockbundoon river) - Mr. Govett having left that unfinished on surveying that river - but they returned without having done and tracing - not having been able to find Mr Govett's marked tree! - This day I had been with Mr McAlister to the hill over the head of the Guinecor (Sth. of 12 Sth.) and took angles then and sketched the ground. This morning I dispatched the drays to Mr. Atkinsons for provisions, with letters to Mr. Allan and to Mr. Elliot - They took with them one dray broken to be repaired at Mr. Allan's - and seven bullocks - carrying also to be repair left at Mr. Allans - the heavier articles of baggage previous to my movement, by the dividing range towards Lake George - In my letter to Mr. Elliot I sent instructions for him to survey the rivers of Black Bob, and Paddy - and also that branch of the Wollondilly above Mr. Allan's, which comes through the plains. Our provisions being short, I sent for six weeks only, or half the supply drawn, and requested Mr. Atkinson to send some one to guide them to Lake George - where they were to meet me (at the N.W. corner). Here I paid 1 pound for boots & mending shoes for the men. –
Wednesday 16th. July - Went to a hill about 5 miles S.E. of Mr. McAlister (on which I had taken angles from the lower side of the range.) and there, the men having cut a few trees, I took angles on several hills which I recognised towards Goulburn plains, and also on the fixed points, which enabled me to fix this important point with all possible accuracy; a most desirable object, not having any other fixed point on this side the high range, which could be seen from the South. From this station I saw Mulindroba and Nundialla, across the Cockbundoon range.
Thursday 17th. July - Set out on the survey of the great dividing range between the Waters of the interior, and those which enter the Pacific - taking with me a light cart, drawn by one horse and two bullocks - and also two pack-horses - Mr. McAlister had kindly presented me with another sheep - (making the third since I came to this part,) - and also lent me 120 lbs of flour - to enable me to wait at Lake George for the arrival of the drays - He also, at my request sent a shepherd to conduct the cart etc - by a road to a part of the ridge where we should pass, while I, with Messrs Dixon and McLeod, proceeded to the place where the trace from Burraburra had left off on the former day. On arriving in this manner at the road crossing the range, we saw the track of the cart, which had passed across the range!! Notwithstanding the repeated injunctions given to the shepherd, to leave them on the range - which was the sole object I had in view, in asking for him. Mr. McLeod rode forward down the range, and fortunately overtook them several miles on, going at a good
[Page 22]
[Page in ink]
pace towards some rocky range in the interior! - I had delayed some time where the road crosses the dividing range, owing to this circumstance, and when Mr. McLeod returned we proceeded with the tracing, marking also the trees (which we had done from Buraburra) - the cart Mr. Govett was ordered to conduct after us, following the marked trees. We reached, in following the ridge, the identical hill, in which I had taken angles the previous day - it being on the dividing range, a circumstance which neither Mr McAlister nor I, were, at the time, aware of. We found the range took a direction forming only an acute angle with that already traced - I ordered the party to stop tracing for the night, at 24 chains from the abovementioned hill, having traced this day - 3 miles 58 chains. - On looking back for the cart we found the tents pitched near the road abovementioned, the cart having been overturned on coming back to this part, and it was too late for it to proceed further.
Friday 18th July. - This morning I intended to have rode forward to examine the range before the measurement with the chain but unfortunately my horse could not be found. I directed the party to proceed however, and went forward on Mr Govett's horse; (he came on with the cart). As Mr. McLeod’s horse and one of the baggage horses were also missing, part of the load had to remain behind. I ordered the cart etc. to proceed forward, however, and left three men to look for the horses, and one to remain with the load, where we had encamped - desiring them not to return without the horses, which I was sure they would look for as they had no provisions. - The direction of the range this day was very favourable, leading in a straight to another hill, which I had fixed by intersection, and finally to a second, - these hills were however difficult for the cart to ascend, and covered with brushwood; I was obliged to halt the cart occasionally and look for a good direction round the base of each, which I fortunately found, by turning to the left of each; and, having rounded the second I selected a snug encampment before a fine old tree which gave us a blazing fire all night. This day we traced 3 miles, 34 chains. - The hills we crossed, consist of a ferruginous conglomerate, so entirely calcimed, that many of the stones, had the appearance of melted ore, with a shiny metallic lustre, on one hill the magnet was useless being attracted from the trace direction, 60 degrees. - There was good grass, however, in the valleys, and what soil there was on the hills was not bad.
Saturday 19th July. Started early, the horses having been found, and brought forward yesterday afternoon (by Mr McLeod who had gone in search of his own.) - I rode with Mr. Dixon to the summit of a hill, about a mile to the left which seemed thinly wooded; from this hill I got angles on several adjacent hills, and also on one or two, observed from Tourang. - Descending we found the cart had reached the line of marked trees by a direction which I had pointed out to Mr. McLeod - Mr. Dixon resumed his chaining operation, and we thus traced this day 6 miles and 68 chains. The last mile however, led to an abrupt
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termination of a tongue of land which I took for the main ridge, extending from a low green hill under which we encamped. After two miles tracing we passed the ironstone hills above mentioned, and the dividing range opened into fine flats of open forest - on which we saw several kinds of cattle, it could only be known as the dividing range by the slopes of the watercourses falling both right and left; little hillocks of granite gave it rather the appearance of a valley than of a range dividing the waters of this singular continent. - On rounding one of these hillocks a native approached us with an air of confidence, and asked where we were going, and whence we had come, in very tolerable English. I explained as well I could, he then asked for a little tobacco, declaring that he had had none since he left Bathurst. We gave him a little, he then asked me to come with him, and see his family. I rode round the hills with him, and suddenly came on several children, who were practising with small spears and bomeraks, throwing at pieces of wood in the air, which they hit with wonderful dexterity. The evening was beautiful, and these boys seemed as happy and comfortable, and in as high spirits, as any youths at cricket on Westminster playground. No awkward air of rustics was to be observed about these savages, but, eyeing our subordinate grades with something like contempt, they seemed perfectly satisfied with their state of naked independence; - the women however are slaves, they are loaded with all the effects of the family, children and all, on their backs, like so many donkeys or other animals of burden. One girl I saw, about 7 years old, nearly white, a half-cast, she was quite naked. - The clothing in general consists of the skins of the opossum neatly sewn together, forming a cloak like the roman toga, two corners fastened across the breast; besides this, a species of sash, formed of threads of the wool of the opossum, encircles the loins, a long end of this sash, hanging down exactly before and behind. I saw one of my guides, (Billy of Kerrawary) kill one of these animals in the forenoon, and, stripping off the wool, he roasted the body and ate it, - the wool he fixed in a piece of thin bark, and spun it with a small hooked twig, just as Spanish and Portuguese shepherds spin; - in the evening the sash was complete.
Sunday 20. July. The direction of the last measured mile, (South) having led towards the gullies, I directed Mr. Dixon to trace on a S.W. line, but when he had gone about half a mile, I had ascertained by riding before him, that it would be ended soon like the former. I then ordered him to return, and remain at the green hill, with the cart until I could ascertain the direction of the dividing range. I set out, with Mr McLeod, and took a course due West for about three miles, when I reached the Wollondilly, a very fine little brook - with small ponds, the rocks of granite, and fine open forest around, with good grass and soil. I here got a bearing on the hill called Wayo - I pursued the course of this stream North Westward, and North, then N. East, in which direction I at length reached the head of the Wollondilly, a round green flat of 8 feet diameter. There I carved my initials on a tree, and being thus on the
dividing range having kept the Wollondilly more than three miles, I calculated my course homeward to be S.E. by S. which I accordingly
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steered, through the pathless woods, and had the good fortune, though it was a very dark, and rainy day, to hit upon the cart, which I found still standing loaded. The day being now decidedly unfavourable in point of weather, and nearly ended, I ordered the tents to be pitched on the spot, and in a quarter of an hour, I had protracted my work, snugly seated in my tent, before an enormous burning tree, although it rained and blew like thunder. –
Monday 21st. July. Very stormy and rainy. The bullocks, not to be found. - At 1 o'clock, Bates, the man in search of them, having lost his way, reached the hut of Mr. Bray, a settler who, according to the records of the office, is entitled to take possession of 640 acres in this direction - He came to the tents with his stockman, and offered to look for our bullocks, and also to lend me a pair if necessary, for two days. - As his grant is quite isolated here, and its true situation unknown in the map, I sent Mr. Dixon & the chainmen, with him, to connect the South Line, traced on Saturday, with the house of Mr. Bray, which was accordingly done; - the station lies about S.E. from this encampment, distant about 2½ miles, and is, as I understand situated on the flat ridge which connects the dividing range with the Wayo hill. Bray has a good cart road to Mr. Allan's, which is about 15 miles off his station, by the Sully creek, which runs thro' Hanl. McArthur's ground to the Wollondilly. A shorter road to Bong Bong, is by Tarlo, across the Cockbundoon range, but it is not a good one for carts. The stockmen went with the men in search of the bullocks, but without success. This day I protracted the angles of part of my work on the Wollondilly.
Tuesday 22nd. July - The snow 2 inches deep on the ground; sent off 3 men with a native boy, in search of the bullocks, while Mr. McLeod & another party went in another direction, Mr McL. having a pocket compass. - Several natives came to the tent during the forenoon, but no promise of blankets or tobacco would induce them to go in search of the cattle. - Three kangaroos made a circuit quite round the tents - the dogs were sent out after them and in about half an hour - Thunder, Mr McLeods dog returned quite gorged, and bloody, having killed but the prey could not be traced. In an hour more, a bitch belonging to Sam (the cook) returned with her lungs etc laid open, having no doubt been scratched by the hind claws of another Kangaroo for she chased one in a different direction from Thunder. It is supposed that the other dogs killed a third, but none of them could be found. I was very glad that the dogs got a mess however, for it was quite painful to see them, scarcely able to run after the Kangaroo, from starvation. Our provisions running now very short, the men were served out only 1lb of flour each instead of 1½lb - the usual ration, a greater proportion of meat was allowed in consequence, from the mutton presented me by Mr. McAlister - In the afternoon both parties returned without any account of the bullocks. The day continued snowy, until about 1, when it cleared, but the wind was high, and the air very cold - In the evening the snow began to fall again. - A very intelligent native came in the afternoon - (Billy, alias Noyo) who agreed to accompany us to Lake George, and promised to look all round for the bullocks early in the morning. - This day I succeeded in fixing all the points of my survey on the Wollondilly.
Wednesday 23rd. July. Mr McLeod proceeded with Noyo in search
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of the bullocks, as did also Mr. Dixon in another direction, but in the evening, they all returned without any amount of them. Mr Bray called in the afternoon, and agreed to let me have a small supply of provisions for which I gave him my receipt, and a letter to Mr. Laidley. - The weather being better today I resolved to move next morning. This day I laid down the Cockbundoon River on my sketch - of that part of Argyle.
Thursday 24th July. Received the supplies from Bray, who also lent me a pair of bullocks to draw the cart. Mr McLeod went again, in the direction in which we had come, for several miles having tracked some bullocks in that direction - I went forward with to Mr. Dixon along the dividing range. I overtook him about three miles on rather amongst the ravines, and I took him back a mile and set him agoing on the range again. At night we encamped on a flat round the head of the Wollondilly, having traced about 6½ miles. - This day I began to number the trees at each mile from B.Burra, having commenced with the 26th about 1 mile SW of where we crossed the stream of the Wollondilly - each tree being marked with the number in Roman numerals on the East side, and on the North side with a large N, and chipt on the two remaining sides - In the evening Mr McLeod came in with some news of the bullocks - that they had been seen by a native named Simon (he whom I first met) who had promised to show them to him next day - This morning, when about to start, the native Billy Noyo said he would go to exchange his cloak and return in the evening, but he never returned, after having been fed by us, while on short rations ourselves, for two days, for the express purpose of guiding us round to Lake George! –
Friday 25th July, Mr McLeod returned once again in search of the bullocks - This morning I detached Mr Govett and his party, with instructions (in writing) to trace the Wollondilly from the marked trees to the grant of Capt Currie, etc, etc, allowing him one of the packhorses to carry his tent and luggage, and directing him to enquire for Chisholm's station where he would find further instructions as to his mode of rejoining my party. I proceeded along with Mr Dixon along the dividing range which became very scrubby. - The snow began to fall heavily, and, after tracing about four miles, we were obliged to stop. - It was at first found impossible to strike a light, but I took a specimen of Quartz rock which I had in my pocket, and succeeded in lighting the tinder, - meanwhile we remained in a hollow tree, the men making a fire, and just at this time, the cart came up with Mr McLeod, and the lost bullocks, already yoked with the others. Simon the native, had pointed them out as he promised, and had come along with them, in order to claim the blanket which had been held out as a reward. - The afternoon cleared up, and we traced two more miles - encamping afterwards on a fine flat of forest land, near where two roads crossed the dividing range from Cottlewaly towards the interior - they are from the station of Mr. Vine. - Gave Simon a blanket & promised him a tomahawk when he came to Sydney.
Saturday 26th July - Continued the trace of the dividing range if a fine flat forest tract, sloping on each side may be so termed, and, ascending gradually, we reached an elevated forest hill
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from whence I saw Goulburn plains, Tourang and many of my old points. - A magnificent range of snow topt mountains appeared also to the South West, and as this proved them to be clear of timber, a thing so rare here, the sight was very pleasing, as well as novel. - The tents were pitched on a fine flat of forest land which the line crossed before we ascended this hill. - I made quite sure of the bullocks, by fastening a strong rope to their hobbles so that even when not accustomed to a tether rope, they might feed without feeling one.
Sunday, 27th July. Set off early with Mr. Dixon and continued the trace across some fine forest land - this day we completed the 45th mile, and encamped on a good situation for a station about 200 yards East of the 45th marked tree.
Monday 28th July. Being near my point No. 117, observed from Tourang, I took the Theodolite and four men with axes and proceeded to the hills near us. - We soon got to it, and found it a small knoll of basaltic stones, nearly clear of timbers. - I took a number of valuable angles there, clearing a few trees, - and, from thence, measured, according to a bearing of Mr. Dixons, towards the 43d. tree, by observing the angle of a six feet rod, I reached the line of marked trees within 100 yds of the miletree, at a distance, by this measurement, of 2526 yards from the hill.
Tuesday 29 July - Just as I was about to mount my horse, two housemen approached the camp, one was Mr Fop, agent for Capt Currie & the other one Peters, whom I had seen before - Fop wished me to measure the land of Capt Currie as a Dispute existed between him, and Mr. Dixon about the boundary. I answered that I came not there to settle disputes, etc, - but if the grant had not been measured, it should be shortly, - that I should examine the papers in the office on the subject. After tracing This morning the men asked me for some tobacco, and stated that they were out of tobacco and soap, and that they had eaten their weeks flour in three days. I had no tobacco, and only a weeks flour, and therefore could only tell them to take better care of their rations in future. After tracing two miles, found ravines before me, and it was necessary to return 1 mile, and take a nearly Westerly direction to get upon a high range I saw on my right, and extending towards the South, the direction of Lake George. I got upon it, cart and all, but found after measuring two miles of its summit, that the highest and most Southern part of it, was entirely separated by a deep steepsided ravine, in which was a chain of ponds and a rivulet running Westward towards a very broken country amidst deep gullies and ravines! - It appeared that the water course which now impeded my further progress was supplied from the ravine which first stopped my course this morning, and the waters of which, instead of entering the Wollondilly as I had first imagined, - flow towards the West. The range I was upon, however, took such a favourable direction and was of such a marked character, that I did not regret having run the boundary line along its summit, and I encamped in a ravine near the rivulet already mentioned, and nearly
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parallel to the 50th mile tree. This day the men killed a large kangaroo. –
Wednesday, 30th July. Descended the ravine to the rivulet, which I crossed, and ascending the flat bed of the torrent from the opposite mountain, the cart was enabled to ascend without difficulty to the summit. There I took angles on various fixed points and determined the station. I then descended the mountain looking for the connecting ridge, and soon fortunately found it on the S.Eastn. side - by which side the cart was easily got down afterwards, and we proceeded with the tracing of this range till sunset. About that time we found ourselves over a deep gully, in a dry barren spot, and thus at once terminated our hopes up the dividing range in that direction, and also our hopes of water and food for the cattle that night. I turned the party back with all haste, and led it to a rather open flat, pitching my tent at a large tree, the night was very cold: In five minutes the tree was made a blazing fire, and, when there seemed no chance of finding water nearer than some miles; we found in the hole left in the earth by the torn up root of the same tree a sufficient quantity of good water for every purpose! - This providential transition from a barren scrub & impassable ravine, to a fine flat & a comfortable encampment, was one of the most pleasing circumstances in this excursion.
Thursday 31st July. Mr McLeod having rode down the flat last evening while the tents were pitching to ascertain what water might be found, discovered that the flat took a N. Eastern direction; this induced me to look still to my right hand for the dividing range. I therefore took a direction S.E. and fortunately came upon it. - We had not chained far in this direction when we found ourselves over deep ravines apparently descending to the Wollondilly - then coming to a high round head, I ascended it and found it to be one observed from 147 of Tourang - I then found by the sketch I had made at that Station the probable direction of the ranges we were upon and directed the party to take to a ridge on the right - this we kept for some miles, until I saw the gullies on each side descending towards the West - I then rode forward alone and soon came to the extremity of the ridge, where I found some wood sawn & split for fencing. Even this object discovery was pleasing, after wandering so long in these pathless wilds - I also the 3d plain of Bredalbane at no great distance. Finding this ridge, terminated by a gully running to the West, I suspected, from the appearance of the woods, that the dividing feature was a low connection which branched from the side of the ridge I was upon, from under the highest point of it. I turned the party back to that hill (near the 58th tree) and then descended this ridge to the Southward. I crossed several tongues of land, with flats falling Westward, which have their gentle decline convinced me that I had the dividing range not far distant on my left - in fact, at 2 miles, I got upon it - and saw the gullies going down to the Wollondilly. We encamped on a fine forest flat with good water near the 60th mile tree, having traced to the 61st. –
Friday 1st August. [1828] Near the 61st mile I found it necessary again to leave the ridge I was upon, and follow a low neck branching from it to the S.E. - precisely in the same relative situation as that which
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which I had been obliged to take on the former day, but on a smaller scale - Some way further; again another slight branch to the left on a scale still more diminutive, brought me to a piece of elevated ground at the 63d. mile tree, where I had a good view of Bredalbane plains, and also the banks of the Wollondilly - From this hill the ground was slightly timbered, and the ridge straight and not to be mistaken- I was now between the Bredalbane and Mulwary or Goulburn Plains. - Further on the ridge, though not very elevated consisted of a sharp edge of Quartz Rock. We gave over at the 67th mile tree, near the top of an elevated part of the ridge, and encamped on a well beaten road which leads from Curries & Chisholm's stations, to Bredalbane plains. From near the part where the tracing terminated, a very low connection branches to the right, and continuing Southward to the point 15 of Tourang on the ridge of hills named "Coanburma".
-We now again beheld the paths of civilized men, and were delighted with the sight of even the print of a horseshoe! - Two stockmen (of Capt Currie) came to the tents, and informed me that Mr. Govett had gone on to Lake George, whether also the dray had also gone up from Bong Bong with the provisions.
Saturday 2d. August. Sent the carts on to Wallagorang a station of [space] - about 4 miles distant, and I proceeded on foot with Mr Dixon and some men with axes to the summit of the elevated ridge to the S. of our camp - Coanburma; these points had been observed from Tourang and I, by moving along them, was able not only to fix each successively by angles on distant fixed points, but also to sketch them at the same time - In this operation I reached the hill North of 15 - and there descended - on going down I saw smoke in the woods at about 5 miles off. I concluded it was that of our camp, and moved directly to it - at length one of the men saw a light through the trees, and some thought it a star only. We followed it however, after walking two miles it became larger - and we at length reached the border of Wallagorang Lagoon, and saw two fires which we were convinced were those of the camp. That we had seen however, was that of a black woman encamped beside the tents. I found here, waiting for me Mssrs Hoddle and Ogilby, Mr Balcombe Snr. and one Brodie Mr McLeay’s Stockman! - Mr. Hoddle had been 2 months idle at Sydney preparing for service, and he had now recalled Mr. Ogilby from St. Vincent country, and come up to me without any orders; without his instruments, leading these gentlemen in search of me all over the country - The reception he met with from me under these circumstances was not of the most civil description. Mr Balcombe alone dined in my tent, and all slept together in that of Mr. Dixon. - Early in the morning, a native who had his family at a fire near us, awoke me with "Massa! day-light jump up" - get up massa"! - "day-light jump up". - The party in the other tent simultaneously d----d him - and told him to "go and knock it down again". - I had sat up till past 12, writing instructions for Mr. Hoddle, and this early summons was by no means agreeable to me either.
Sunday 3d. August. Delivered to Mr. Hoddle detailed instructions for the survey of St. Vincent county, gave Mr. Ogilby leave
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[This page in pencil]
to go to Sydney for a week to get fitted out, he having no clothes. I proceeded to Lake George where I found the dray & provisions, also Mr Govett waiting, he having completed his survey of the Wollondilly. - The flour however was extremely bad, & Mr. Allan had sent me 50 lbs of his own, out of compassion - I here received letters from Mr. Mitchell, Mr. Cordenna Lawley, etc etc - and newspapers, and, at this Ultima Thule of the present colony - I at once heard from My mother, my brother my wife and my sister! - My way to the Lake (the N.W. corner or bay) lay through land on which there is a station of a Mr. Rose, - it is a beautiful tract of well watered land - fine open flats, and forest hills, comprising an extent of about 15000 acres of good land.
Monday 4th August, - Measured a base on the flat at the North entry of the Lake, - the rods which I used in this operation, were 2 sets of tent-poles (of English Deal) the one 9.11 inches, the other 10.2 inches in Length, being about 2 inches in diameter; - a cord was first stretched along the ground, and the few hollow parts were levelled - the rods were then laid to each other, by the coincidence of lines on pieces of tin attached to the ends, the measurement of the rods in the first instantce, was performed by means of a standard brass scale of Ramsden.
Tuesday 5th August. Sent Mr. Dixon with the men to clean the timber from a hill on the North of this flat, (named Colegdar) - while I completed the measurement of the base - which I made a mile in length - Took angles also with the theodolite from both sides on the hills around –
Wednesday 6th August - Went with Mr Dixon & the men with axes to Terrilmimo (17 of Tourang) and there cut, in the first plan, avenues which unmasked both ends of the base, on which I took angles. - Mr. Hume came to the tents & remained for the night.
Thursday 7th August, while the men were employed clearing the timber on Terrilmimo. I proceeded with a man carrying the theodolite to the hill Colegdar, and then took the angle with the base and also others on the points around - A native guide to whom I had promised a blanket, on condition that he should remain with me two days, was with me. –
Friday 8th August. - Wrote to Mr Cordeaux, Mr. Atkinson, Mr. Mitchell and Mr. Allan, and sent off this morning two men, with the two bullocks lent me by Mr Bray to his station - They were directed to call at Mr Allans with a 3d bullock and bring up 2 packsaddles which had been left behind - also to look & enquire for Mr. Govett's horse which he had lost in the woods near the burnt hut. - Despatched Mr Govett on the Survey of the Went to the hill Terrilmimo (17 Tourang) - and there took a sketch and all the angles I required. In the evening wrote instructions for Mr. Govett in surveying the chain of ponds which water the flat of this encampment, and also the Western shore of the Lake. - A man named Gorsse was hurt today by the fall of a branch in cutting the trees Terrilmimo - Lat. of the Tents observed this day 35°, 0'
Saturday 9th August, Sent Mr Govett on this survey abovementioned. I sent Mr. Dixon to trace the Eastern shore of the Lake, first giving him a point in prolongation of the base fixed with the theodolite - from this he chained to a tree due West - which was marked and shewn to Mr. Govett as the point where his work was to join - Mr G. went with one troublesome packbullock -The camp moved to a sheltered spot 2 miles beyond outlying point. - In the afternoon it blew and rained tremendously.
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[Note it is now 1829. The previous entry was Saturday 9 August 1828]
Wiseman's 17th. January 1829. - commenced the survey & laying out of a new line of descent from the road on the ridge North of the Hawkesbury at Wisemans - the whole being at an angle of 4°. –
Stn. 1st (Bearing West-) Rod 0°. 55' 375
< Angle 190.17
2
N.B. All the angles are from the Ridge - or outwards -
3 0.50'
<178.28
4 1.13 412
<197.37 282.5
5 1.28 234.4
<245.55
6 4.34 75. -
<213.24
7 1.2 332.7
<175.8
(Depn. 1°.35') 8 2.32 135.7
<149.55
9 2.15 152.8
<196° -
(Depn. 5.10) 10 2.14 153.9
<204°. - .
11 2.30 137.5-
<147.51
12 12.2 28-
<96.40
13 1.21 254.7
<112.56
14 2.20 147.3
<244.10
15 9.24 36. -
<121.52
(Depn. 6.40) 16 1.8 303.3
<224.50
17 3°. - 114.6
<215.14
18 3.36 95.4
<203.36
19 1.30 229.2
<180. -
20 1.28 234.4
bridge< <62.54
21 2.6 163.8
<177.17
(Depn. 1°.20) 22 2.20 147.3
<23w21-168°
Depn. (4°.47) 23 1.44 193.3
<24w22. 171.13
(Depn. 17°.12') 24 6.28 50.-
<23w25. 130.11
25 3.1 114.-
<26w24. 220.40
26 3.30 98.2
<27w25. 190 -
27 w q shut w hut E11 - 78.12 -
28 4.48 74. -
Gully - < <29w27- 138.32
29 1.44 193.3
<30w28- 169° -
30 1.45 196.5
<31w29- 175.10
31 3.2 113.3
<32w30. 197.40
32 1.37 212.7
<33w31.. 186.10
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[This page in pencil]
33 4.2 85.2
<34w32. 195.32
34 4.10 82.5
<35w33. 191.53
35 3.15 105.7
<36w34. 202.24
36 8.41 36. -
(Wgavil) fw4. 21.21
Dwq. 61.24
11. 107.55
q w Divisions (32) 41°.33' -
Dw 5 tree opp. qt. 40.27
37w35 - 191.17
SV 37 Rod 0.54' - 381.9
<38w36. 151.48
38 3.55 87.8
This Stn. (38) being Stn. 5 of the survey of the other road being at the angle of the first-traveria SV. 4 of that Survey forming an angle with 37 of this of 146°. 19' - Bearing of D. S. 11°. 15' - West -
(Faint pencil for the rest of this page)
15/6070/464 feet Elevn. feet 6070.4
606 Yards 2023.4-
78 1760-
166 m m 263-
1.5 1/2 or -1 - 333 yds
Diff. 70
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Monday 7th July 1829 - Set out from Sydney for the purpose of deciding on the best line of road Northward from Wisemans - having with me five packhorses - and six men with provisions for 5 weeks - being also accompanied by Asst Surveyor Stapylton (attached to me,) and Mssrs. Abbott and Rogers - reached Best's at five oclock - having left Sydney about 12. –
Tuesday 8th. July - Reached Wisemans at 2 o'clock - met. Mr. Percy Simpson, and walked with him and Mr. Wiseman up the new line of road - which had been opened since my former visit. Observed the height of the barometer at the Hawkesbury and at the juncture of the New and old roads. - found the Proximate Ht. of the latter to be 574.5 feet above the Hawkesbury. –
Wednesday 9th July - Rested here awaiting the arrival of the party.
Thursday - 10 -- Mr Stapylton arrived in the afternoon - and also Mr Abbott and Mr Rogers - but it was too late to think of setting out. Mr Ogilby also arrived, and joined us at dinner, - also Horton James came to the house with Dan. Cooper etc. –
Friday 11th Set off about 12 from Wisemans, ascending by the old road, leaving the drays at Wisemans, with my small tent & various articles - also about 15 bushels Grain whh. Mr Wiseman said he would arrange to allow us corn for from his sons at the Wollombi. Mr Stapylton accompanied me. Abbott & Rogers being left to refresh the bullocks, and to measure the new and old roads - reached the 12 mile hollow. at Sunset. .
Saturday 12th Left the encampment at ½ p.8. and travelled along a very bad path along the range - so bad that one of the horses named Sharper - making a false step - fell, and rolling was precipitated from rock to rock till he was out of sight, while the crack of his fall from rock to rock was still heard. To the surprise of every one he was afterwards found below still alive, and subsequently carried his load! being only injured by a severe cut on one of his thighs - which made him lame a little. – My table and seats were broken into small pieces but the rest of my load, consisting of my tent etc bedding, was uninjured - We continued with difficulty, along the ragged crest of a winding ridge, Sharper falling down again & the other animals requiring frequent adjustment of their loads, so that we made with difficulty at Sunset, a poor open spot, clear of timber from mere sterility - called Hungry Flat, where we encamped for the night. The distance travelled being only 10 miles. –
Sunday 13th While the animals were loading, I went to the top of a hill to reconnoitre the country - Saw Werrewolong, apparently distant about 12 miles - but from the sinuosities of the ranges I thought it would be better to proceed to young Wiseman's and then strike across to it. - Before we left the camp, I sent back an Overseer with a note to Mr Abbott requesting him to come by the Mangrove road, this being so bad, - and I directed this man to conduct them as near as he could to Werrewolong - and then find out my encampment and conduct the party to it. - It having appeared to me that the road by Mangrove must be both a better road and a more direct road to this mountain. - We travelled this day on a rather better path: the ridges here being nearer the division of the waters were less rocky and abrupt - the flats between the highest parts being more extensive & less profound. - At about eight miles, we seemed to descend towards the head of the Wolembi and arriving at a spot of forest ground with good water - (called Dennis Dogk Kennel - we halted a few minutes. - The country immediately assumes a different character on descending the north side of these ranges - and an open flat of rich land, is soon gained after
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descending by some rocky declivities, that side of the range; and it is here that the formation of a good road would be most difficult. - A mile and a half further we reached Young Mr Wiseman's, who came out to meet us, and most obligingly tendered me every aid which he could think off for the furtherance of the operation proposed, supplying us with bullocks, and grain, and sending fowls, butter & milk; supplying us with guides and offering himself to accompany me to Werrewolong. - I should here observe that his father also gave us every assistance we required, having had two bullocks & two men of his the whole way to this station. - Having satisfied myself as to the impracticability of the road for the passage of drays in any manner - I wrote this morning accordingly to Mr. Abbott - and to Mr Swinburne saying that I had given up the idea of moving them across. In watering my horse this afternoon about 4 oclock at the head of the Wolembi - I was surprised to find thick Ice on the ponds.
Monday 14th. Sent the party with Mr. Stapylton onwards by Mr. Finch's farm to the head of the Sugarloaf Creek under Warrawollong while I proceeded to that hill more directly, across a ridge guided by Mr. Wiseman Jr. - We reached the summit about 2 o'clock having ascended from the north side leaving our horses tied in the valley and the saddles etc - planted, - The view was very extensive, commanding Lake McQuarrie, Taggerah [Tuggerah] Beach etc on the Sea Coast, Jellora on the South & the Mittagong Range - Tomah - and the Blue Mountains on the West with Yengo [National Park] and Werong - & many similar hills further West. - On descending we found the party encamped where we had left our horses & Mr. Wiseman returned home. From Warrawolong I at once saw the direction of each of the roads, and that this mountain & surrounding gullies left no room for another in the intermediate direction. - Wrote Mr Simpson requesting him to send 20 men & axes with provisions for ten days to clear the hill, and requesting him also to pass the bearer of the letter one of the men assigned to me, (Griffiths) - on to Sydney having retained one of his bullock-drivers in his place- This man seemed a very dissatisfied character, always abusing my servant, - and had declared that he would not cut trees on the hill - etc. - I retained also Doughty an asst. overseer whom Mr. Campbell had sent with me a very pushing useful fellow, and my men being young hands - A native accompanied us to the hill.
Tuesday 15. Dispatched Griffiths with the letters - and returned also the bullocks Mr Wiseman & Mr. Simpson had lent. - Ascended the hill accompanied by Mr. Stapylton - We had also 6 men & axes, but a very large tree took the whole day to cut - however its fall made a considerable breach in the wood on the summit - opening Jellore to view from the centre of the summit - etc. - The day as hazy. In the evening I found that the appropriate height of this mountain above our encampment at the creek below was 1575 feet*- and 1786 ft. above the Hawkesbury at Wiseman's -: - that Gellore was 950 ft. above my camp on its side, and 2414-ft. above the Sea Tourang - 2738 ft. above the Sea. - Wrote a note to Mr. Finch requesting the loan of a cross cut saw, & thanking him for a cheese she had been so good as send me.
Wednesday 16th Ascended the hill early with the intention of taking an azimuth, but the sky became cloudy about 12 so that it was impossible - and it began to rain - The men cut some trees and burnt some old stumps, but the axes supplied from the Lumber Yard were of such bad quality that they soon became useless, - The steel being either wanting - or not welded into the iron so that it came off - I endeavoured in the afternoon to sketch the ground to the Southward - but the air was bitter cold - Mrs Finch lent me a saw, & sent me bowls of cream, butter etc.
Thursday 17th July - Ascended the mountains on the North of this valley accomp. by 2 natives & Mr Stapleton and traced the range N.West, by taking angles & bearings to Wollowolong and Yengo - found this range continuous, and easy to walk over along the summit, which I followed for about four miles in hopes to come to its extremity
* since found to be Geomy. 1608 feet.
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overlooking the Wolembi – but in this I did not succeed, the day being nearly closed- The natives brought us back by the shortest road and we reached home as soon as it was dark. – On my return I found a private letter from Mr. Hay, one from Percy Simpson Esq enclosing a Newspaper. One from Mr Duncombe transmitting the List of lands to be measured on Hunter’s River – two for Mr Stapylton, and two for Mr. Abbott. – Wrote a note to Mr. Simpson.
Friday 18th July. – Ascended the same hill I went up yesterday, accompanied by a native and his gin and two boys. – and traced the same range I was on yesterday Eastward- Arrived at a rocky point where I could see the ranges joining Warrawolong on the East – this point is called Bungowally – and presents the only impediment to travelling along this ridge – it being necessary to descend on the North side about 100 yds. from the point and thus reach the continuation of it Eastward. – It began to rain and I changed my course homewards and got there in good time. – These natives were uncommonly civil and obedient.
Saturday 19th July - Ascended Warrawolong but the day was very unfavourable – rainy & cloudy and very cold, - I commenced a sketch of the hills lately traversed and took some angles with the pocket sextant. A road party of 20 men sent by Mr Simpson arrived.
Sunday 20th July. – Again ascended Warrawolong – the men having been sent up also and they began to clear. – Sketched part of the country to the Southward, but the weather became unfavourable.
Monday 21st July, - A fine day, set out with Mr Stapylton, and attended by Bert and two native boys, for the purpose of exploring the head of the Sugarloaf Creek, and the connection of the ridges to the Eastward with Warrawollong: - We came upon a line of marked trees on a range running S.E. after forcing our way through a myrtle brush & across a rocky gully – but although we endeavoured to follow this line we could gain no eminence from whence a good observation could be made on any fixed points to determine our situation, and we returned guided by the natives. It soon became very dark, and but for the clever way the native boys kept up a light made of the stringy bark which served for a flambeau we certainly must have found it extremely difficult to avoid the rocky precipices we past. – On steep places they also set fire to the grass trees which immediately blazing up – gave a light to some distance around. We reached home about seven, very much fatigued, the rain having also set in, which with the long wet grass made us quite wet. Five of the road party were this night lost in one of the gullies in descending Warrawolong where they had been cutting the trees. – They were heard cooying all night but it was impossible for anyone to find them.
Tuesday 22nd July. It being very cloudy with slight rain I remained in my tent, and endeavoured to lay down my sketching of the hills – but I did not succeed well as the small pocket compass was not sufficiently accurate for such purposes. Found the want of a [Indecipherable] – Calculated the heights observed last year to the Southward. Two men came in seeking Mr Rogers – they had come from Parramatta – Wrote Mr Abbott.
Wednesday 23rd July, - Sent Bert with two men by the line of marked trees to look for Messrs Abbott and Rogers – I ascended Warrawolong and took some observations of the [Indecipherable]’s Altitude, and equal altitudes for the purposes of determining the latitude, and ascertaining the angles of the true meridian with Jellora. Afterwards drew part of the ground on the South, with the Theodolite. On my descending, found Bert had returned - he having failed in his search for the line of marked trees. The angle of the mern [meridien] seemed to be 150°.54’ – the elevn – the Sem. [Indecipherable] 72°.41’ ½ =36.25’.30"
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Thursday 24th Ascended Warrawolong early – and took eighty degrees of the horizon – the timber was but partially cut by the road gang – and the overseer complained to me of several of the men who would not work at all. Bert returned having been unable to penetrate through the brush – or follow the marked trees which suddenly terminated – ? Eln [Elevation] 9-2) 73°.6. ½=36°.33
Friday 25th Sent Bert off by the road by Hungryflat to follow Messrs Abbott and Ogilby till he found them – I ascended the hill early – and got the angles and Panoramic view of eighty degrees more ? Elevn 737deg;.30’ – ½=367deg;.45’ – In the evening Mr Abbott reached our camp accompanied by a native.
This morning I was struck by a very singular effect of the refraction. Several gigantic masses of mountains overhung with trees & glistening with rocks appeared on a part of the Western Horizon which I had already sketched – and which I had not seen there before; - I looked with my glass, and saw trees & rocks very distinctly, but soon to my astonishment some began to change shape, and one fell away in the middle – and I soon found that the whole was an effect of refraction occasioned by the suns rays on the vapour ascending from the earth.
Saturday 26 July. Gave Mr Abbott a note for Mr Rogers (& a plan) appointing him to meet me at the junction of the Wategan creek with the Wolombi – shewing him also the situation of the Plan camp proposed. Wrote also by Mr Abbott a note to Mr. Rodd and Mr. Walter Scott both at Newcastle – as to rations and the obtaining a dray instructed Mr Abbott to proceed with the cattle of one dray to Newcastle; and sent instructions to Mr Rogers to proceed with the others to join me at the junction of the Wategan creek with the Wolombi [This is about 100 metres east of the Laguna Community Hall, alongside the oval]. ? Elevn 73°.54 ½=36°.57’ – Mr Finch joined me on the hill.
Sunday 27th. Ascended Warrawolong very early and worked hard all day completing the whole circumference by ½ past one o’clock. Then took with the Theodolite the bearing, and distance (by the angle [Indecipherable] by a six feet road) – Along the summit of the mountain & downwards to the camp – where I marked a tree on two sides, with a ? – In this manner I ascertained the direction and also the height perpendicular, - When half down the hill the sun set, and I was forced to leave this till next morning. – On the summit I marked the station of the Theodolite on the nearest tree thus
N74W
25Ft
and also marked by a square patch, the other trees near it which ought not to be cut down.
Monday 27th July – Packed up to move, and then reascended to where I had left off, and proceeded downwards to the camp where I [Indecipherable] a tree with the mark by marking it [triangle shape] as above mentioned, - On my progress down the hill I was joined by Mr. Finch, who accompanied me on foot to my place of encampment in the evening – On the lower part of the SugarLoaf Creek. Found the distance by the line of ascent, from my camp to the summit of Warrawolong to be 8792 feet. The perpendicular height above the camp – [space left in diary] – I had climbed this hill ten times.
Tuesday 28th July – Proceeded on along the Sugarloaf creek to its junction with the Wollombi, and ascended the upper Wolombi, the path to Wallis’s Plains – The rocks projecting overhung
The angles of the creek which winding in all directions renders the line but an indifferent one for a road. – Passed several huts made for the Veterans – that of one man (named Black) is built on a swamp with overhanging trees etc – instead of being placed on the rising ground. Mr Stapylton did not come up
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up this evening. I ascended, after halting the baggage, a hill on the North of the creek and obtained a sight of Warrawolong, angles and various important points of the high ground. Mr Pender a settler 2 miles on sent me a bottle of cream, two fowls, and some fresh butter – heard that Mr. Rogers was there.
Wednesday 29th July, - Determined to move forward without waiting for Mr. Stapylton – and wrote him accordingly by Mr. Rogers who came up – requesting him to proceed to Sydney; Sent Mr Rogers to Mr Finch, to measure the flats & ravines in that neighbourhood; wrote also to Mr Abbott directing him to trace the new road from Wallis’s plains to near [Indecipherable], and then to then to move with his dray & provisions by the North of the Broken Back to Mr. Ogilby’s station – there to await further instructions, and plot his late surveys. I left my camp at one and reached in the evening, Campbell’s station on Black Creek. Went down the creek about two miles, and encamped near a waterhole. The road seems not in the best direction along the hills, frequently topping them when a slight detour might avoid them altogether, not a blade of grass here for the horses – although in Sugarloaf creek the grass was abundant.
Thursday 30th July, moved as soon as I could and followed a course through the bush W, 30° N. by which I crossed very even ground for about twelve miles – but it was occasionally broken by dry gullies rather difficult to cross – their course being about East – saw detached abrupt mountains on my left, but none like the hills in was in search of viz: the summit of Broken Back Ridge as observed from Warrawolong. Not a drop of water to be seen in any of these hollows. At length I arrived at Hewitts station where the only water was in two holes, and very bad in quality – proceeded about four miles further and reached the Wollombi brook – at Rodd’s station – when I encamped, the horses without any grass. Picked up a petrified gum leaf on Sandstone (deep yellow clay)
Friday 31st July – Sent to Mr Blaxland’s for some straw, but he was from home, and there was none there: - the overseer however sent me half a sheep - some vegetables – butter and milk – on which we feasted, - I ascended the yellow Rook Hill on the S.East with great difficulty. I did not see Warrawolong but Mt. Tomah – Murray’s Mt and Yengo – also the fine Cone towards Mudgee. Took angles on these & many points on the other side Hunter’s River, - found a curious substance like Hatchetine or Amber in some red earth on the summit, thinly covering the almost naked rock, - also in ascending a piece of sandstone, with the feet of small kangaroo such as are known by the name of Wallaba & which now inhabit these rocks – descended with some difficulty & danger after sunset.
Saturday 1st August. [1829] Moved along the Wollombi towards the last projecting head over this brook on the West – which point was observed from Warrawolong, and also from last station – Reached Mr. Blaxland’s station, where there is a considerable establishment: much cleared ground & building. The soil being the rich (whinstone) red sort, extending for miles along the Wolombi. Continued through a level country. The mountains in succession breaking off abruptly on the West side of the Brook. Passed a small settler living by himself at a hut on nine acres of William’s land – then by Omeo’s land and along a flat, crossing few hollows, till I reached a creek with a few water holes where I encamped – very cloudy – said to be but 4 miles from Jerry’s Plains – The mountain to the West
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Monday 2d August – Although rainy proceeded with some men, the Theodolite and axes, in search of the point of mountains observed from Warrawolong and the last station. I ascended a very difficult rocky point, and after climbing to a higher mountain I ascertained that the point I was in search of was on a separate range or extremity – It rained hard and I sat some time under a rock. We found abundance of the fruit resembling a nut, which is yielded by the dwarf palm, so general on these mountains. I gathered some with the intention of planting it in my garden, also some roots of a highly aromatic plant; - We descended by the rocks again holding by hands & feet, (& sometimes by my standing on Dougherty’s back.
Monday 3d August – Ascended the right hill (0) by a long tongue of hill which leads to its summit, extending nearly 3½ miles – (having discovered it yesterday) – the worst part was a hill covered with thorny brushwood, which being dead & hard, was extremely difficult to go through: - Saw my two late stations from the top, but the day was rainy & cloudy. The men cut some trees – I took them off early & led them round by the summit to where Yengo was intercepted by the trees, so that I could not see it from the Station, but it was so far about (5 miles) that I had no daylight, and we made what haste we could downwards by the descent already mentioned; it was seven before we got home, (I found my way by the small compass) – I was sadly knocked up, and lay all the evening at the fire – feverish thirsty *& not hungry. This morning I had sent Bert to Mr. Finch for my parcel of letters.
Tuesday 4th August – The men early at the hill, great part of one side cleared – opening a splendid view of the whole district of Hunter’s River – The Cone W. of the [Indecipherable] Oxley’s Peak & the boundary range of the Colony – I ascended but it was so raw & cold, & the hills so hidden with clouds that I did but little. A cloud covered Mt. Royal the whole day, (a proof of its great height.) and in the evening when it became visible, it was white with snow. That mass of mountains looked fine at sunset – the distant hills faintly blushed with rose tint & faint blue, the nearer with the same tints stronger until the bright yellow green & shady dark green of the foreground made a glorious contrast to the pink & blue: - Here & there patches of cultivation appeared on the immense plain of Hunter’s River district, with wheat presenting the whitest green imaginable, like an emerald on an old table. This vast amphitheatre of fine land, bounded by stately mountains might be a second Tempe, but for the scarcity of water. At this hill I am encamped five miles distant from it, merely for the sake of water which cannot at present be found at a less distance from it; - they say men must travel ten miles, besides climbing a high & ragged mountain; to work them as hard as a road party in cutting trees. Bert returned in the evening about the time I did, bringing the parcel which contained letters from Mrs N Coll Snodgrass – my mother, brother, D. Roebank etc etc – with newspapers. Wrote Mr McLeod by Mr. Finch’s man.
Wednesday 5th August – Rode part of the way up the hill sending back my horse; the men cleared all I wanted; and I lead them again round to the point already mentioned, where the trees intercepted the view of the Yengo – I marked the trees which would I thought clear it, but it was too late for them to do it this evening.
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Thursday 6th Augt – Ascended the hill early, and set to work on it at ½ past ten. – Found on my way up that the breccia of which the rocks were composed was in many parts calcareous, took specimens – Worked without intermission till ½ past four when cutting party joined me from the other hill, where they had all day been employed cutting trees, but without accomplishing the object intended, which was to open the view of the Yengo at this station, - I completed this day 160° of the horizon. Found a man from Mr McLeod on my return to the tent with a letter and a plan of part of the Goulburn River. Also that Mr. Bell Jnr had called & very kindly offered anything his station could afford & asked me to go there tomorrow. This day I had sent Bert in the forenoon to Mr. Blaxlands, and he had brought home a fowl, round of beef & some butter & milk. Wrote Mrs Col Snodgrass & Mr. Nallen
Friday 7th Aug. – Left this encampment about ½ p. 10. and moved back to the Wollombi – I rode forward to Mr. Blaxland’s Southern boundary in order that I might see the situation of the village reserve to be taken from the Government Reserves there. I found that the Southern half of the nich of frontage was the best and therefore I decided on taking half of the mile of frontage to the two Reserves on each side of the Wollombi; - The overseer gave me an excellent lunch and rode with me & showed me the boundaries; he also pointed out to my attention in the bed of the Wollombi – a fine seam of coal – also a curious salt spring & some remarkable stones of different kinds; - He had a number in his house intending to [Indecipherable] them [Indecipherable] but on trying them with the test, they would not effervesce. I showed him however a small grain of excellent Limestone, which are about the size of small marbles & in great abundance in the ridges of those singular natural undulations of the ground commonly called ploughed ground, (which the resemble) – and which occur on the rich red soil about a mile North West of Mr. Blaxland’s station – These grains occur in the ridges, not in the furrows between, and are similar to some I picked up last year in the rich black soil at the North end of L. George. The Overseer promised to send me some petrified trees with the bark on - & a press of the mastiff [Indecipherable] which they have at this station. This day our people in passing also got a part of a sheep, some vegetables and milk.
The Overseer whose name is John Taylor also informed me that he has purchased 100 acres from Earle adjoining the Church Reserve at Patrick Plains (Parish of [space not filled in]) about which the Archdeacon wrote to me, and that he would have no objection to exchange it for land equally good – he has found it on one side. – He gave me a specimen of the rock of whh Yengo consists, and which lays in loose heaps on its summit, and he informed me of some curious prints of feet of animals on some hard rocks on Blaxland road – at about 12 miles from Finch’s.
Saturday 8th Augt moved down up along the Wollombi – the first part very bad – at the rocks overhanging the angles of the creek – but the direction seems the most eligible for a line of communication between Sydney and Hunters River – reached Mr. Finch’s station at 4 and on going forward to young Wisemans I met Mr. Rogers, who informed me Mr. Abbott was a, having traced the road, encamped on the old ground near young Wisemans, at whose
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house I dined.
Sunday 9th Augt – Took a walk to the summit of Kutenbern with Mr. Wiseman and took some angles with the pocket Sextant. On returning found Mr. Rogers at my camp – he dined with me, and Mr Finch came afterwards.
Monday 10th Road forward to near Denis’s Dog kennel (9 miles) by the road and reconnoitred the country discovered a good line of road up a swamp. Took angles from several hills.
Tuesday – 11th Augt – Sent the baggage forward to Denis’s Dog kennel, and measured & observed the elevation of the new line, also marking the trees, having got two of Mr. Rogers men for this purpose – got as far as the mouth of the swamp when sunset compelled me to stop. We were lost on our way home, but I climbed a hill took a bearing on Wollowolong, & by the knowledge I had acquired of that country the previous day, I with the aid of my compass – got my way to the tents.
Wednesday 12th August. Went back to the foot of the swamp; having previously examined well the ridges & hollows to the left of this line but found them unfavourable – measured & marked to the hill at the head of the swamp. On returning found Mr. McLeod at the tents – he remained for the evening.
Thursday 13th Augt – Mr. McLeod accompanied me in the morning I rode back to the head of the swamp & took angles on the different hills. – At that at the head of the flat I parted from them he returning to Mr. Finch’s place – I directed him to survey the road which I should mark, on his way to Sydney. – I continued marking the Line & carried it along favourable ground to about a mile & a half on part D. Dogkennel – being along flat scrubby land for a mile – quite direct - reached D. Dogkennel in the evening.
Friday 14th August. Set out back early, & taking a direction by compass, made my way through a scrubby flat – gained the range, got to a spot I left off & continued the marking. – Found on my returning a tract of flat brushy land, by which I marked the road, to go level & in the due South direction for several miles, so as to cut off all the hills, & much shorter the road. Saw at a distance Mr. Baxter, Judge Dowling, magna ceterva comitante [translation from Latin: accompanied by a great retinue]. This morning I dispatched Bat to old Wisemans (a rating for 8 men for five days.
Saturday 15th August, Went forward towards Twelve Mile Hollow to reconnoitre the country – traversed several ridges descending Westward from the principal one on which the path is, with a view to reaching Twelve Mile Hollow, or rather the range above it more directly, but in each case, my hopes were cut off by a profound gully with a running brook of sparkling water, - took the principal ridge and from several stations took angles with the Theodolite, (which Dougherty carried, he accompanying me). I finally succeeded in ascertaining the best possible direction for the road for a few miles on from my present camp. – Bert returned in the evening with the rations, but bringing no papers or letters of any kind.
Sunday 16th August, - A cloudy morning (in consequence of the full moon). Set out backwards with some men & axes and marked from y camp to the part already marked (about two miles back) – an excellent level line of road, cutting off a great detour of the present path & some bad hills. I then ascended a high hill over the old path (N.W. of the original hungry flat) and there, from a projecting rock, I had an excellent view of the summits observed from Warrawolong and I was occupied nearly two hours with the Theodolite – returned to the camp at one o’clock and ordered the baggage to be packed up immediately. I then went forward with the men & axes, marking the road towards 12 mile hollow (which I had chosen yesterday) – and the packhorses coming up in good time to the spot I described to them. I encamped about sunset on the E. side of a mountain over a very deep ravine, into which I shewed the man a way to lead the horses, where they hobbled them after they got down. – This day while occupied making the men mark Capt. Pike passed me on the road.
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Monday 17th August. Went forward early with the men, and shewed them a line to be marked – leaving them to do so, under Doughty’s directions in returning from where we had come out on the old road about three miles forward; while I, with Bert and Tomahawk reconnoitred the hills to about 3 miles from 12 mile hollow, and ascertained the best direction for the road, which whn returning Bert marked with the Tomahawk. On the way I me Mr. Finch’s man who delivered me two letters one from Mr Dunscomb, the other from Mr. Perry (a private letter) informing me of his arrival on the 3d instt [means the current month] and dated the 12th.
Tuesday 18th August. Sent Doughty and Bert to mark better than they marked yesterday – I moved forward accompanied by Rose with the Theodolite. The baggage and the other men moved by the old road to the Twelve Mile Hollow I took angles from different heights and ascertained the best practicable direction for the new line to join the road already made from Wisemans to the Twelve Mile Hollow – Very glad to reach the Twelve Mile Hollow with the road thus far determined: My boots all worn through, my clothes ragged, my legs cut with the scrub wood and even the leather of my saddle torn – I lay down on the cool refreshing ground, tired feverish, and fully determined, not to undertake a further survey of this kind until I should reap some credit from this.
Wednesday 19th August. Went up the side of the hill N.E. from the Camp in 12 Mile Hollow and marked with the Tomahawk the best ascent, connecting the line with Mr Simpson new road down the SW side of the Hollow – Having sent Doughty with five of the road-gang with axes to mark from where we left off yesterday, I went on till I met them – continued shewing them the line till we came upon the marked trees of this morning. I there had [Indecipherable] waiting with the Theodolite (one o’clock) and Bert to take home my horse – and I proceeded to the top of a very sharp rocky cone half a mile to the Eastward – from whence I saw at once K. Geo’s mt Mt Murray. Tomah – Yengo – and Warrawolong – got therefore some very valuable angles – and thus completed together this Survey and the marking of a new Line of Road to the Twelve Mile Hollow. Wrote a letter to Mr. Rogers, to whom I sent two of the pack horses and also a private note to Finch.
Thursday 20 August – Proceeded to Wisemans leaving the baggage to follow – took angles from a hill over Twelve Mile Hollow – and from a hill over my road descending - reached Wisemans about 3 o’clock – met Capt Lethbridge and his brother there – dined alone and put some of my work in ink.
Friday 21 August – Set off at ½ p. 8, and rode on to Berts which I reached at one. Stopt half an hour and then continued onward, and arrived in Sydney with my horse quite fresh – at 7 o’clock – the distance is said to be 57 miles.
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[Pencil drawn plan of what appears to be a barn or large room with storage areas in rooms on the side – writing describing purpose of the rooms is unclear. However the comments below the drawing might imply a hospital room. They are as follows:]
Clerks. Ward – Staff costs 3/6 a Day
Correspondence etc
Holy land – 1/6 Priest
Another – no salary – Prisoners
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[Note the year is now changes to 1830. The previous entry was for 1829. However the 29th May 1830 was a Saturday. The 29th May 1829 was a Friday. So not sure of the year. Perhaps Mitchell corrected the dates on 10 July when he dates Friday and Saturday as 10 July. Saturday 1830 was 10 July.]
Bathurst Road
Fr. 29th May 1830 – Set off at 1 o’clock from Craigend – a gig of Mr Innes accompanying me – The horse started at the driver having struck one side of the gate near the miller’s – and threw the driver out – setting off at full speed: he was caught beyond the new jail one of the shafts being broken. Left Goodwin to get the thing repaired and rode on myself to Paramatta which I reached at 5 o’clock. Put up at Mrs Walker’s. – Ascertained that the Govr whom I wished to see had been that day & the day preceding at Sydney. – Wrote a note to Condamine, who assured me that the Governor would not return till Saturday Evening. I enclosed to Condamine a letter for the Governor.
S. 30th May – Having learnt from Mr Innes that the Governor would arrive early this day, I postponed the journey – but he did not arrive till late in the evening. During the day I occupied myself writing a letter about the Great roads of the Colony – to the Sydney Gazette signing – Viator. I sent it to Snodgrass whom I requested to alter erase – send it or not as he thought best.
Majr Loveday called this forenoon
31 May – Sunday – Called at government House at seven o’clock – Governor not up – Mr Condamine sent me a word he would see me at ten o’clock – Called then, saw Condamine, then His Excellency – who stepped up and said he would explain what I complained of in a few words – that I had finished various elaborate plans of improvements which were very good but which could not be acted on at present – for instance that of the allotments round the Domain. I told His Exy that was done by express instruction from the Coll Secy – in His name and that I had in a former report stated that unless the measure was to be adopted – I need not make a detailed plan, and that I then received a letter requiring the plan to be made! – That all these plans were so much of my duties accomplished. – Then Govr alluded to the general distribution stating his approbatum [approval] of it. I also explained the nature of the roads reported on more fully, when His Exy seemed persuaded of the reasonableness of my representations. We parted on very good terms – the Governor wishing me a pleasant excursion and directing me to send him word what would be requisite to open the road – and desiring me to inform the Bathurst people that He would keep his word, and put from 160 to 200 men upon it as soon as I sent him word how many would be required. He expressed his regret at the delay which had occurred between my
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my going to Bathurst and the instructions to me for that purpose – which he counted was 7 months ago.
I finally explained how the survey was always carried on during these road excursions – and that several new hands were now going with me. He asked how long I should be away and I said 6 weeks or 2 months as I had a great hiatus in the map to fill up the Northward to which district I meant to pass.
Innes and I then set off about ten o’clock – and reached the Weatherboard Hut in the evening – having stopt to dine at the Pilgrim – where I met Mr Elliot – Memm A very good road may be made up the gully to the left, looking from Sydney of the Lapstone hill road – so as to come out at the Pilgrim. Mr. & Mrs. Rankin at the Weatherboard Hut Inn – Just as we got in a violent shower of rain came on, the weather having suddenly changed from a beautiful evening. My baggage was waiting here for me.
Monday 1st June. Rainy the whole day. I copied my letter to the Ed. Sy. Gazette – and also wrote to Snodgrass and to Mr. M. – handing it to the police told me in the evening he was to take the mail the next day.
Tuesday 2d. June – The rain having cleared a little, I went with Mrs. Rankin, Mr. Rankin & Mr Jones to see the Cataract near the Weather board hut – the wild scenery of the Valley into which it falls was very striking. We amused ourselves forcing a large loose rock over the precipice which cost us nearly a full hour to effect. Moved on afterwards to encamp at the foot of the present Mount York road – Very rainy all the evening.
This morning Mr. Innes returned to Sydney to attend the Supreme Court as a witness of the 4th inst.
Wednesday 3d. June. Raining the whole day. Mr. Elliot called – I did little but read.
Thursday 4th June – The morning fine, set out with men & axes, and soon found the best descent from the mountains to be along the tongue on the Southward of Mt York – by which a gently inclined road could be made by lowering a narrow crest of loose rock which joins two parts of the ridge together, - Came home by Colletts new road behind his house, just got to the house before it was too dark for finding the way down the hill. The road attempted on the side of it very badly [Indecipherable] – spoiling the face of the hill entirely. Dined at Colletts where I met Mr. Dixon. Afterwards road to my camp under the steep road – and Darling Causeway.
Friday 5th June. Went up again to the new line with Mr. Elliot to whom I shewed it – and we traced marking trees down the road between Collett’s and Cox’s river. Having shewn the line to Dougherty also
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Saturday 6th June. Ordered Mr. Elliot to plan Plumby’s gang – and that lately in charge of McDonald on the new line – the former in the valley under it, the other on the high ground above, between it and the road. I went onwards across the River Lett – along the intended line, accompanied by Mr. Dixon – it came on to snow and was very cold. I continued the line across that, already opened – under rocks like the ruins of Babylon – so as to head the gullies which render the lately opened line almost impassable. Rode on beyond to Mts Kirkly and Bowen – two hills across which Major Lockyear crosses – then turned and proceeded along the road to Mr. Walker’s – reached his house about eight o’clock after some difficulty. Found Mr. Walker out but Mr. Bowen, and young Rodd there. We had some mutton chops and tea. Mr. Walker came in afterwards from a remote cattle station.
Sunday 7th June. Rode to Honeysuckle Hill accompanied by Mr. Walker and Mr. Bowen, also Mr. Dixon – from there endeavoured to find a good descent to Cox’s River but without success. Mr Walker’s party and mine separated in the bed of Cox’s River when Mr. Dixon and I found our way up the gullies by Mt. Bowen to our encampments – since having removed to the River Lett – near where the new line is to pass.
Monday 8th June. Continued to the marked trees of the new line across the River Lett – to the Lockying line – and along the Ruins of Babylon, to across the gully under Mr. Bowen and along the Southern face thereof to the Road of Majr Lockyear – returned after dark.
Tuesday 9th June – Went onwards to the foot of Mt Walker without finding a good passage of Cox’s river although I marked the road down to it – returning home we lost the marked trees and had to wait till the moon rose, when by returning we found them again and got home about 8 o’clock. Received a letter from Mr. Elliot abt the insubordination of No B gang and he not having the power to punish the offenders.
Wednesday 10. June. Wrote instructions to Messrs. Dixon Lewis and Butler – then ordered my dray round to Bathurst by the old road – while I proceeded along the new line of my trees – the pack horses following them afterwards. I explored the country beyond Cox’s river and in the evening found my tent pitched exactly where I had appointed my baggage to come – Very comfortable here, with the summoning music of Cox’s river close at hand.
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Thursday 11th June 1830. Sent Wood to Mr. Kirkly requesting him to send me any letters coming from Bathurst – Crossed Cox’s River, and had the good fortune to find that the ridge led to Honeysuckle Hill in a tolerably straight direction – the only water to be crossed being Solitary Creek, which where I crossed is a little babbling brook with good forest land on the banks.
Cox’s River requiring, where my road would cross, a bridge of about 140 feet – which would be above all drift timber & floods – the ascent requiring some making, especially on the side of the steep hill in which the ridge of the road terminates on the river, but the ridge is so good in other parts and the direction to favourable, some pains may be well bestowed on the passage at this place.
In the evening the moon rather past the full, rose about 10 o’clock and the effect produced by her rays was fine – herself partly hidden by a deep mass of River Oak – the rays shone along the smokey condensed air of a frosty night, so as to give a floating milkiness to the half shaded space between me and the mountain ridge which blended its steep outline with the spangled sky – ornamented with a most luminous planet also – (Jupiter) – near the horizon. Nearer on the left, the moonbeams just rendered visible the white stems of some tall gum trees – behind my tent which having a light in it, contrasted well with the bluey light of the moon. To the right a profound mass of shade softened into broken half shade – and finally so as to show at distance through, the searching yellow light in a silvery mass with stalks of gum trees near the ground. The river “most musical, most melancholy", gurgled along – to complete the romantic beauty of the scene. The irregular sound, seemed, frequently, as accompanied by voices, which often deceived the dogs making them bark. It was very hard frost but I could not avoid sketching an outline of the locality [Indecipherable] to this memm for the effect to be attempted some time in a picture.
Friday 12th June – Received by the hand of Wood a packet containing letters from Perry, & copies of some official communications – Went back to complete the marked trees to Mt Kirkly. Having ordered the baggage to move to Solitary Creek. On returning after passing the spot of my recent encampment I overtook Cussack beside the road of one of their horses (Farmer) which had slipped in a bank of very little acclivity and lay dead having broke his neck!
Worthington was to return with one of the other horses for the load, and Cussack waited for him. Named the creek or water course requiring a bridge under Mt. Walker, Farmer’s Creek as the only memorial of the poor horse. He was very old & had a sore back which probably occasioned the catastrophe.
Passed the new encampment on Solitary Creek, and after trying two other ways, found at length a very good ascent by the side of Honeysuckle Hill. Returned at dusk and found all the baggage arrived. The spot where a bridge would be required is very good soil – and rather pretty. Solitary Creek at this time made a whispering murmur just heard from my tent: these are deep pools however of the purest water.
Saturday 13 June. Moved off with the baggage accompanying, having left a note for Mr. Dixon on Solitary Creek directing him to make a plan of the ground, as the spot seems favourable for a village, or for the depot to be established half way between the Blue mountains & Bathurst – the grass was the richest I had yet seen, the horses showed great unwillingness to leave this spot. A little hill on the
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right I thought a good site for a public building such as the barrack would be. Found the ridge leading to the Honeysuckle Hill, even more favourable than I thought it when there with Mr. Walker. The side-cutting required near the summit, is necessary to render a road passable at that part – but there is no rock to be blasted, and the steepness is not above 14° or 20°. On rounding the hill, the whole of the ground appeared, very much beneath our level, however I found one descent at the inclination to which I limit the most acclivitous parts of the road, say about 1 in 12. I continued some way along a ridge N. ward ( on which there were trees marked, which convinced me it was the Dividing Range traced by Ogilby) – but I at length discovered what I had in vain been looking for before – a ridge branching more in the direction I wished to go – being to the N.West. I returned a considerable way, to a rather spacious flat part of the range (with large trees & good soil) and there struck off my marked trees gradually sloping down the side of this ridge, I was led notwithstanding along one or two heights connected with it, and finally encamped in a valley to the left, leaving off marking with a forest[?] hill before me.
Sunday 14 June – gave Worthington a dollar and sent him to buy mutton or beef where he could. Mr Innes’s two men being without rations. I set off with the men & axes and marked the road a considerable way towards Bathurst. I turned the hill where I left off the preceding evening by the right – and beyond it I followed a tongue of hill which led me in the direction I wished to pursue, by a gradual descent to the comparatively gently undulated forest[?] land – and continued for some miles – having crossed a pretty little rivulet running amongst [Indecipherable] – Soon after I reached Hayes’ station, when I was for a little misled from the proper line by the most stupid or knavish overseer I ever met with. I soon however saw the proper direction, and continued some miles beyond the station, having to my great satisfaction, found across what I thought a ridge at a distance – fine open forest[?] land – very gently undulated. On my return at dusk found that Worthington & Wood, having finally set off for Mr. Walkers had not returned – Fired three shots but no sound of them although I at one time I imagined I heard a distant “cuey" – Therm 28°
Monday 15 June. The two men not having returned, I was obliged to do with 2 axes marking trees – the baggage having to follow – found a good line for the road to under the Stoney range where I encamped – with much satisfaction, having traced a road which must be nearer by many miles to Bathurst than any other – this is so entirely my road too, that although I marked it plainly on my sketch submitted nearly 3 years ago – and Majr Lockyear was ordered to make it, still no one ever hit upon it – and yet it is the only way by which the numerous steep hills abt Mt Blaxland, the [Indecipherable] River can be avoided. My only anxiety this evening was about the two men also had not returned, when, long after dark, the dogs who had been with them made their appearance – then the men – Worthington bringing a whole sheep – from Mr. Walker and having left some potatoes two miles back. This completed my satisfaction – and it being my birth-night, I gave them some rum witht telling them this however. I certainly felt almost as well pleased with my ten days exertions, and the new line of road, as a General could after gaining a victory.
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Tuesday 16 June – Bates who was with me in Argyle came to the tents and told me he was now free, and a Sawyer [saw miller] there – he also wished to persuade me to adopt a road by his sawpit – and I went to see it, but it was neither so straight nor so good as the one I was about to mark – marked the road again from the Sawyers which I passed yesterday – and found an excellent descent to the spot of my camp – I marked further down along the rivulet – but it set in to rain, and I moved forward with the baggage till I fell in with Begrie and the dray near Mr McKenzie’s station. Mr Walker called late in the evening, but did not come in, or send his name till he was gone. Wrote to Snodgrass, Perry, Bank of Australia – Coll Secy abt mechanics – and also to Mr Gregson requesting him to lodge some of my money to make up my balance at the bank.
Wednesday 17th June. Mr Walker & Mr McKenzie called before I was dressed, asking me to dine at the house of the latter. I said I was going out about the road and could not answer for my time of returning. Went forward though an indifferent day towards the Stoney Range in a straight direction – marking parts of the line which I thought would do – at Mr I.P. McKenzie’s station came on an excellent ascent from the hollow there to the stoney range – and also a good line close under the hill of Stoney Range – so as to cross the little creek at my old camp and, by proceeding up a low extremity opposite joined my former marked trees, thus cutting off those marked towards the present ascent. In the evening went to Mr McKenzies: it rained very hard. This day I received letters from Coll Snodgrass, Perry
Thursday 18 June. A heavy fall of snow confined me to my tent. I was also ill from drinking so much weak negus at Mr McKenzie’s and two boils lately come out on my left thigh were so painful as to disturb my rest. Wrote answers to Coll Snodgrass & Perry, sent this day by the post. I passed the rest of the day sketching the moonlight scene under the Haunted Hill. Leg very painful.
Friday 19 June. The day was clear, and returned to where left the marking of the road, and continued it into the plains of Bathurst – passing nearly on the line between Aspinal & Brown and crossing the ridge of the plains at nearly the lowest part – drove stakes across the plains as no trees could be marked. On returning, found Mr Geo. Innes’s servant with a letter for me in which he stated that the Govr had said that he had nothing to do with the roads and desired him to remain in Sydney, to proceed with Mr Cordeaux in the Reports on Cumberland. He asked me which he was to do, that or come up? I wrote him saying that of course he must obey the Governor. Mr Rankin & Mr Walker came over to me from McKenzie’s in the evening, and took some grog – Mr Rankin asked me to dine with him next day which I agreed to.
Saturday 20 June. Mr McKenzie came to me in the morning, accompanied me during the forenoon. I returned to the top of the
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plains ridge, and marked the line to Bathurst. I then called on Mr Brown, Majr McPherson – and transacted business with Mr Howard – D.C.C.Genl. – Turned in to run to the Supt of Police (Lt Evenden). Then rode over part of the township with Mssrs. Rankin & Walker. Dined at Mr Rankin’s – Met Mr Walker & a young man – relation of Mr Howards – Rodd jnr came in in the evening – m. – My camp in the evening in Mr Rankin’s field
Sunday 21 June. Divided on the plan, the portion of Reserve to be given up for small settlers etc at Bathurst. Majr McPherson called and asked me to dine with him on Monday.
This day I dined with Lt Evenden where I met a Mr Hawkins there etc, etc.
Monday 22, June. Wrote Instns to Mr Dixon also various letters to Sydney, made a copy of the small plan of Allotments at Bathurst. Dined with Majr McPherson – met Capt Piper[?] etc.
Tuesday 23 June. Wrote Mr Evenden enclosing plan of Allotments & requesting him to give publicity to an arrangement of mine that the solutions should be communicated by letter to me early on or before Tuesday the 5th Instt – At length about 2 o’clock Mr Rankin & I set out in a gig for Wellington Valley, and reached that night – Charley Booth’s – a hovell on Dr Richardson’s farm dist 24 miles; The dray following us on this tour and one pack horse – the whole nearly of luggage being left at Mr Rankins, as well as the remaining packhorses & Wellington – who being ill with boils, I directed to remain at Mr Rankins & look after the horses – Raining.
Wednesday 24 June – A rainy morning – we started however and after a few hours reached Summer Hill – a Mily [military] station – we rested our horses a little – a very tidy soldier’s wife seemed to keep her hut very neat – the husband & comrade came in soon from kangaroo hunting. We continued and in the evening reached Molong – a Govt stock station 28 miles from Summer Hill or 38 from Charley Booths. A Corpl and Private of the 39th were also stationed here, and we passed the night in their hut. The soldier Oliver – or Quin – having been once in the Buffs – and being now desirous of settling when his 20 years are out, was very obsequious to me. At Summer Hill this morning – one of the “specials" as they are termed – was pointed out to me – He had been a Lt in the navy – I now saw him in the rain with a Paramatta Jacket on, & his cuffs turned up – feeding some pigs – He was a rather good looking young man – In the evening we explored a cave – (recent [Indecipherable])
Thursday 25 June. The morning rather rainy – it cleared up however, very soon – we had a pleasant ride, and were met, some miles from the settlement by Mr Kinghorne who conducted us to Wellington Valley where a nice blazing fire in a rather handsome bow fronted room was awaiting us, and we soon had a very comfortable dinner.
Friday 26 June – We set altogether, rather early to examine the caves. First Mr Rankin descended into one lately discovered by Mr Kinghorne but after some time he returned breathless, and nearly knocket up; having been occupied the whole time ascending & descending a narrow crevice just
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just wide enough to admit his body. We then went to the great cave the descent into which is easy, and I was astounded and gratified at the grand and simple proportions of every part of this cavern: first we enter after winding along a broad & lofty passage – the great gallery named the chapel where there is also the altar – steps, font etc – wholly the work of encrustation of stalactite – the height of the roof is full sixty feet – the length 80 feet breadth 50 feet – the floor consists of a soft red earth – like impalpable dust – it was extremely interesting to contemplate amid the silence which had rained here for several thousand years – (for the natives have a superstitious dread of caves & never enter them) – the splendid work of nature – and with the inexplicable circumstances of the bones found on my mind, it was impossible to behold this altar without a new sensation of awful reverence for the mysterious works of the Deity – No bones occur in this cavern while a few yards distant is the cave full of them! Passing by the back of the Altar we descend rapidly and enter a smaller gallery which terminates on the brink of a dark precipice called “the well" where there is water the surface of which is 30 feet below. The depth has not been ascertained. On the left hand side of this smaller gallery we ascend by some very gigantic footsteps apparently in Stalegmite covering fallen earth – to one still smaller, where some beautifully chrystalized Carbonate of Lime were found. The floor was covered with stalagmite - but on cutting through we reached solid rock. On breaking the greater stalactites opposite to the well a small holeway was formed, by which another chamber was entered by crawling on hands and knees or sliding; in this the stalagmite of the floor was pretty even, and as it sounded hollow I directed the men to cut and at nine inches below we found brown earth, but entirely free from bones! We dug to the rock which we reached about 3 feet below the stalagmite, - One of the most remarkable phenomena of this cave is a very peculiar white ashes looking sort of dust which covers part of the floor – and into which at one part (behind the altar) Mr Rankin sank to his middle, it looks like the ashes of burnt bones, and it may be observed that a very peculiar smell pervades this cave to its very mouth – and somewhat resembles that of burnt bones. I also dug in the red dust at the outer end of the Chapel but found a few bones only very much broken. Mr Brown 39th Reg* has informed that when he first entered the cave, few had preceded him – and that at that time – this this substance now white was dark coloured, and very light, that it ignited, by the drops from the flambeaus, and that smoke was seen at the mouth of the Cavern for some time after. I am not quite satisfied on this point however as I saw none of that black earth remaining.
I next descended the cave where bones are found – which appeared to be entirely different in character from the others; these are commonly in solid limestone and the entrance is usually easy, but this is merely a hole as if formed by the earth or rocks falling in. The bones are found in a red ochreous cement which appears like the matrix
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of the Limestone block which hang in horrible airiness over one heads as we descend. The mouth of the cave consists chiefly of the bone brecchia which seems to be the same as that of Gibraltar – it is also in abundance below, with large rocks of Limestone intermixed in a very irregular manner; wedged in some places together and so supported, so as to overhang, in others – adhering to the brecchia which alone retains them overhead. This brecchia is of a hardness between that of stone and that of earth – in general its outward texture is peculiarly rough like a swallows nest or rough mortar – the bones in many places project or are slightly attached to its outward surface, and it would therefore seem clear that this cement was [Indecipherable] in a very liquid state – the largest bones are generally found outside – and the small ones - & little fragments dispersed equally throughout the mass. The lower part of the Cave terminates in two little chambers – with separate entrances, both of which have a floor of what appear alluvial soil; I dug into both but found only few bones – these being apparently of the same sort as those found in the brecchia – the chambers are terminated or rather choked up by this diluvium. In the smallest and upper one, the bones occur in the face of the rock, encrusted in a thick stalagmite crust, stratum of limestone. I took specimens of this, and also a drawing shewing the position of the bones – and the face filled up with dilluvium.
We then went to a third cave a little distance from the last; the entrance is amongst the blue limestone rocks, and tolerably easy; it soon however becomes steep – and has more the appearance of the Argyle caves than the others – being moist – There was a peculiar sort of stalactite like a cock’s comb in graceful drapery like folds. At the lower part – water terminates the descent – probably connecting with the River Bell – as the water was much lower when Mr Rankin visited the cave during the dry season. I found very pure iron ochre in some of the fissures, but no bones. We returned in the evening very tired to Government House.
Saturday 27 June. A native having told us there was a large cave to the Northward of the Macquarie about 12 miles we set out to explore it, with the native on horseback behind another man. We rode hard – and only reached the hole about 2 oclock – when it turned out to be merely a sinking of the earth, forming a hole of about 12 feet diamr at the top, and 30 ft diamr at the bottom which was about 40 feet from the surface. we saw only a large goanna at the bottom – I was the first to descend by a rope, but In was disappointed to find no subterraneous passage to go further – the rock consisted of blue clay slate; the country was rather flat – and as I found some thin nodules of magnesian limestone near this, I concluded that this aperture was occasioned by some chasm in some limestone below. This day we rode at least 45 miles without much advantage. We saw a clear topt hill to the N.East which being conspicuous also and isolated, is a good point for the survey, the native name is Wingewarra.
Sunday 28th June. We were all rather tired this morning. I wrote letters to Mr M. and to Coll Snodgrass – We drove out to the Caves at 1 o’clock and looked at them a little.
Monday 29th June. We set out for the caves early, determined to have a good day’s work – I surveyed first the large cave with the compass, and a line of 20 feet – then I commenced a view of the large gallery with the great altar etc – then I measured the bone cave (80 feet) and surveyed it – commencing also a view of the little chamber already mentioned. I this day set men to dig where the
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brecchia seemed to come to the surface, at some distance from the bone cave, and there also they soon found bones – the brecchia being very hard, seemed only a species of limestone rock.
Tuesday 30th June – Went with Mr Kinghorne and a man on horseback carrying the theodolite across the River Macquarie to a high hill named Bingalyjan – about 5 miles east of the station at wellington – On our way we touched at a cave in a low situation in the Limestone rock – and in the earthly sides in the mouth I found the same red earth or cement and containing bones. The cave had also like the bone cave at wellington, the appearance of the earth having sunk or slidden down – the lower part being nearly perpendicular & its footing near the edge of loose earth – I could not descend for want of a rope and a light. I was much struck however by the analogy in character between this & the bone cave at wellington both seeming like holy formed by a sliding in or sinking of the earth – and neither being at all like the other limestone caves. There was another cave near into which the bats when scared from the other cave descended.
From Bingalyjan I took angles on the Conobolas, and on various hills at Wellington – we also saw some very remarkable peaks at a great distance Northward – these, I concluded were on the great range extending from the interior to Cape Hawke. The country to the Westward of Wellington seems gradually softening into a level & unbroken country although I saw some hills to the Westward which were rather conspicuous. A vast plain of good land is stated to be at a place named Bogan – to which the natives are very desirous that we should extend the Colony. They are a civil & obliging race of blacks.
Wednesday 1st July. [1830] Sent my things to the tents near the caves, and proceeded, accompanied by Mr. Kinghorne to the heights Westward of Wellington and took angles from two stations across the country on both banks of the Bell – I then proceeded to a little [Indecipherable] hill E. of the Bell and also took angles there – returning in the evening to my tent. I afterwards went down into the Big Cave and completed my view of the beautiful Stalactite named “the Altar". Returned home at ½ p. 12.
Thursday 2d July. Commenced early with the theodolite at a tree on the bare ground near the caves (V) – and proceeded across the Bell to the high ground on the West – and traced the summit of the ridges – as far as my station of yesterday. In the evening went into the bone cave.
Friday 3d July. Surveyed the River Bell from above the caves to its junction with the River Macquarie about 2 miles. This evening I was examining the top of the swell in which the caves are, and tracing the outcrop of the boney red earth – when I came upon a [Indecipherable] exposed to the weather on which were embedded several bones forming a beautiful & rare specimen. These bones appeared to be the shattered remains of a human being, but so shattered and disjointed that only enough remained to identify the order of being to which they belonged.
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Like the last remains of a shipwreck – they lay a melancholy vestige of a tremendous storm; and I could not behold these vestiges of a being once animated like myself, but which had existed long prior to the earliest Egyptian mummy without the most elevated and interesting reflections. Could this being but be reanimated - what light could it not throw on this most puzzling question – How & whence comes the red earth always containing bones? This might have been a body from Asia, and at least was as ancient as Noah! As I was anxious to complete my survey of the river while the weather continued good, I could not remain to examine the hill further as I wished to do. I sent Mr Rankin and Mr Kinghorne who went to the hill & pulled the stones about but found nothing more, - On returning from the Macquarie, dined with Mr Kinghorne and in the evening saw a fine Corrobory behind his house. The natives imitate in these dances – various animals – as, the native dog and the manner in which they kill the Kangaroos: the Kangaroo and the natives hunting him – also birds – as the crow for instance – and the Emu – also - and even they imitate the wind. which was the finale, in a very good taste – by taking each boughs of trees and crossing their hands rapidly as wind blows branches, according to the music, to which they also keep time by a kind of breathing sigh – which suited well with a representation of trees waving in the wind. This beautiful idea of natures own children was a greater treat to me than any ballet I ever saw on the stage.
I mounted my horse again at 9 o’clock, and rode to the camp (3½ miles) – I then descended the bone cave in order to detach some specimens of the incrustation of bones in one of the chambers – but on descending, I found some bones whh seemed human, projecting from between two limestone rocks – and I attempted in vain, till it was twelve o’clock, to detach these bones so firmly were they wedged in, and I was obliged to leave them there at last, with the exception of some fragments which I brought away. I at length got to the spot below where I wanted the specimen – but I found the aperture filled with a mass of fallen rock which had come down from the yawning sides since I had been there before – however we got the specimen I wanted . On returning, I could not help stepping to the right, and taking a sketch of the overhanging rocks mixed with red-bone earth which looked tremendous – as if every moment they were coming down: finished this at ½ p. 1. and left the Cave.
Saturday 4th July. Got up early to pack my specimens, Mr Kinghorne having kindly furnished me with boxes, wool etc and I was engaged with this from daylight till 12 o’clock. Then I breakfasted, Mr Rankin having waited for me from 10 o’clock. Then I took a sketch of the mouth of the big
N13. Mr Maxwell exchanged my poor bullocks for an excellent team.
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big cave, while Rankin waited very patiently as we were to have set out on our return at 10 o’ck. While I was drawing Rankin read a poem he had written in which he noticed most flatteringly my survey drawings etc at Wellington, I remarked that is was most encouraging to me to finish the drawing with some pains, & not mind[?] time – as I could not otherwise deserve the credit he had given me in the poem. Terminated at 1 oCk – and we proceeded in Mr. R’s gig towards Molong.
On the way we met Mr Walker, who returned with us, and we all slept at the Soldier’s Hut at Molong – havg arrd abt 9 o’ck.
Tuesday 5th July. very rainy morning – We proceeded nevertheless to Buree – a Govt station about 12 miles off. There we saw Hunt – Thurtell’s friend – Mr Rankin begged him to sing, but he excused himself saying he was hoarse. He held my horse for me, and put my foot in the stirrup. (Prodigious!!!) – Oliver an overseer conducted us to the limestone ridge about six miles east of the Govt station and I found this the most romantic spot I ever saw in my life. Although the day was very rainy, we soon got into fair weather under the bridge – where there is a spacious esplanade with the most romantic scenery. The bridge is 125 feet span of solid Limestone – the height about 60 feet. The breadth of fine dry space is very considerable under “the bridge" – rocks (looking Westward) topple up in the style of Salvation – to the left is a covered terrace very commodious where we took up our abode and this extends into spacious caves or chambers, lighted in the most romantic manner by small openings to the daylight – There are, however, on the other hand, dark recesses, and badgers seem very numerous – living in holes made under ground. In one dark cell we found fresh remains of a fire - and the mark of a foot with a nailed shoe – very fresh, as the as the badgers had not marked it with their feet. We were rather alarmed at this – as it was well-known that bush-rangers are about this part of the county. We however discovered nothing of the kind. Oliver went back to the station for some provisions as we had resolved to remain there for the night – We therefore did so and I passed it tolerably well with a Kangaroo cloak brought by Oliver, who returned to us after dark.
Monday 6th July – Made a sketch of the interior view of this bridge – completed it by ten o’clock, and we then mounted and descended the stream a mile to the other cave, this is also adjoining the rivulet – and a tributary coming through the cave joins at the entrance. The Subterranean part is still, narrow, and deep. The cave is of a different character from those we had seen, (which indeed all differ from each other) – the Stalactites joined columns much like Gothic Work – and the appearance from the interior is very
[Page 56]
picturesque – apertures above, lend “a dim religious light to it, which entering among the smoke form a fire we lighted gave this effect. Under a remarkable mass of stalagmitic crust – under which were various stony (not lime) encrusted we found lumps of salt petre embedded, and I have no doubt that it might be worked here – no cave of importance appeared with the exception of the narrow [Indecipherable] which the stream has its course. Up this Mr Rankin & Mr Walker proceeded – (I remained to draw) and were absent a long time; at length they made their appearance from the outside – having ascended by an outlet to the opposite side of the hill. They found the passage long & dangerous; the stream so deep that they could find no bottom – and across this they had to stride in moving up – having taken off their shoes to preserve a footing on the rock on each side. To these gentlemen’s perseverance I am indebted for the discovery of the “red ochreous cement" (containing bones!) in this cave also – Just as they were about to ascend, by a rough & very steep ascent in a crevice, their light being nearly done – Mr Walker noticed a bone in the side of the opening – and soon they broke out more & brought them to me. The hole by which they ascended to day-light was precisely one of the fallen in kind – loose stones & red earth with bones, from the lowest depth to the surface. The hole at the surface, with a perpendicular opening, resembled exactly the bone cave at Wellington and beyond the Macquarie, and on descending to the first footing place, 10 feet from the surface I soon found bones in the earth at the sides. From one little spot I found a great number wedged in tightly – and then in another place – others – especially one that seemed like a humerus & ulna of the human skeleton. It may be observed that in this and the former cave, we found small bones encrusted with lime – and in this the same kind of bones lay without any encrustation thick on the surface – so as to crack & sink under our feet like shells on a sea beach.
In the last cave we also found recent marks of an inhabitant embers – and a tied bunch of reeds as for a bed in the interior of the cave. We now mounted and returned home to Molong. I gave Oliver two dollars for his trouble. I was much incommoded by the boils in riding back. On our arrival at Molong we found a Dr. Henderson waiting for us – by the bye we found it difficult to cross the river – which is I believe the Bell or a branch of it – the other at Buree with the bridge etc empties into the Lachlan. Dr Henderson seemed a very odd personage – he walked with a black boy – he said there was no granite, nor any primitive rock in the country – that he was making a section of the strata etc etc. He was going to Wellington and wished to have gone 70 miles further he rode on drays to carry him over the rivers – He read a book of his to Rankin – on financial arrangements and said he was come from Van Diemen’s land where he had done much good, to set us right too, for we were all wrong etc etc.
Tuesday 7th July. Mr Rankin set off to get home that night to Bathurst 56 miles, Mr Walker with Mr Henderson went
[Page 57]
Wellington Valley, I required a little rest & quiet, but I should nevertheless have gone on, but that they had arranged to let the bullocks go astray, I therefore continued in the tent completing the plan of the Wellington Valley. By Rankin I wrote to Coll Snodgrass and Mr. M. The day was rather hot.
Wednesday 8th July – took a walk in the morning to same limestone rocks about 500 yards West of my camp near the side of the river – there was a small crevice or [Indecipherable]-like-hole in the rock, and I found it half-filled with the red-ochreous cement – and on detaching a portion from the roof, a small bone appeared adhering to the rock – in fact I found again here the same brecchia of bones. On looking into another crevice that too was half-filled. The surface of this substance having the same rough appearance as at the other places where I had seen it – resembling a swallow’s nest something. There was a crust something like that at Wellington and I think the boney mass was all above it – I took specimens of both. This was therefore the fourth place where I had found this singular earth – or limestone – always containing bones. These small holes both [Indecipherable] with the surface above. Moved forward with the dray following – towards Bathurst, and reached an old station on a good large rivulet abt 12 miles from Summer Hill.
Thursday 9th July – moved onwards – got to Summer hill about 2 o’ck – ascended a hill North of the station, and took some angles on the Conobolas and Mt Lachlan etc. The dray on crossing a rivulet in a swamp just beyond this station sunk a wheel – and wetted both the boxes containing specimens. Got the length of Charley Booths (Dr Richardson’s land) - distce – Travelled 22 miles. This night the thermr was 26°
Friday 10th July – Detained a little in the morning unpacking & repacking the large specimens from wellington – then we started and reached after dark Mr. Rankin’s paddock – called at Mr. Rankin’s – met a Mr Lambert there & his daughter who is very pretty – Mr Rankin sent to Bathurst for my letters, and for medicine for me.
Saturday 10th July. Took salts, and finished my plan of Welln Valley. Mr Brown 57th called, and delivered me a packet of English letters, he had received from Mr. M. – whom he had seen the week before at Sydney, all well – At Mr Rankins in the evening.
Sunday 11th July – commenced an outline of the sketch of the bone cave – Capt Piper invited me to dine, I sent an excuse being ill & taking physic – Major McPherson called.
Monday 12th July. Took salts. Continued the drawing of the bone cave – very cold & snowy.
Tuesday 13th July – Wrote various letters. Mr. Rankin called.
Wednesday 14th July – Drew till 1 o’clock – then received my letters, one from Snodgrass, announcing the decalcification of Gregson who has £150 of my money! – Wrote answers
Thursday 15 July – Wrote till 12 o’clk then sent off my letters. They were just in time – having been interrupted in the morning by Capt Steel with Capt Piper who came to [“visit me" – this appears at the top of the next page] Mr Hawkins Jnr also called abt land.
[Page 58]
visit me. The former of course about his land.
Friday 16th July – Commenced a drawing of the little cave of incrustation of bones. Mr Gosling called on land business and detained me a long time. Two men & a pack-horse came in to me in the evening in search of Mr. Rogers who had sent them on from Sydney.
Saturday 17th July. Completed the drawing of the bone Cave
Sunday 18th July. Commenced an outline of the view of the entrance to the great Cave – in the evening scrolled[?] the heads of a letter on the Act proposed for the regulation of the towns.
Monday 19th July – Drawing the entrance to the Cave – rather rainy.
Tuesday 20th July – Completed the entrance to the Cave
Wednesday 21st July – Received letters from Coll Snodgrass, Laidley and Perry – the first enclosing me my 2d bill for £100 with a letter of advice Laidley having caught the fellow on his arrival. I was as much pleased with this bill as if it had been a gift. Wrote a letter to the Secy abt the department generally etc etc. One about Elliot etc. Mr. Rogers arrived, bringing his plotting & letters.
Thursday 22d July. Got upon my horse, a man following with the Theodolite, and called on Capt. Piper, then went to the hills behind Bathurst and took angles – then went into the Settlement and called on Majr McPherson, Mr Evernden, & Mr. Howard the Commissr.
Friday 23rd July – A beautiful morning – protracting my angles when Brown called – he rode with me to the hill near Bathurst which I reached after one o’ck. We met Majr McPherson who went with Mr. Moon 39th to look at my specimens at my tent. Mr Moon pronounced the bones to be human, he having been bred[?] a Surgeon. On the hills till Sunset. On reaching home heard Mr Rankin had returned. Wrote Mr Rogers instructions. He had been this day employed tracing the houses of the present settlement – Went up to Mr Rankin in the evening.
Saturday 24 July. Packed up all the Specimens carefully – breakfasted with Mr Rankin. The dray moved on to Bathurst where a months rationing were procured – it then went forwards on the road to Sydney. Obtained from Mr Evernden, the loan of a team to draw Mr Rogers’ rations to Molong – he being instructed to proceed with pack horse and 20 days rations – on surveying the trips leaving his stores at Molong – with one man near the Mily Station. I had a busy day surveying the hills Westward of Bathurst, which I fortunately completed about 4 o’clk. Then called on Majr McPherson, Mr Evernden (with whom I left the sketch having inserted the names of Selectors[?]. Dined with Brown meeting Mr. Rankin. The night was very dark (abt 9 o’ck) when I set forward for my camp on the road to Sydney. Brown sent a dragoon with me – otherwise wd not have found the road. Reached my tents at abt 12 from Bathurst. The soldier stayed all night. Found my tent most uncomfortably pitched – door right towards a very high wind blowing, and being also exactly under some overhanging rotten trees. At midnight the wind roared & it rained incessantly till 10 next morning
Sunday 25 July. Very uncomfortably lodged – the bad weather induced me to remain however and I completed the [Indecipherable] sketch of
[Page 59]
Bathurst ground. This afternoon Mr Lewis’ team came up going to Bathurst for rations, and I received a letter saying that he had also required two more bullocks.
Monday 26 July – morning rather fine – packed up and proceeded forward accompanied by Wood on a horse with the Theodolite. When near Lowe’s hill met a man with a dispatch for me – it contained a letter from Perry enclosing a copy of a letter from the Coll Secy – acknowledging receipt of my Report on The Bathurst road – in no complimentary terms but informing me that the part I proposed for a descent near Mt York was not to be adopted or commenced etc. Although much vexed at receiving such a letter after my late exertions I proceeded to take angles from Lowe’s hill with the Theodolite – found a tree with Mr Dixon’s initials. Took a sketch also of the hills opposite on the North. In the evening, found the dray had just come up – encamped under Lowe’s Hill. That evening sat up late putting together the heads of a reply to the letter.
Tuesday 27 July. Retouching the reply before I got out of bed. Left the dray to come and went forwards to Colletts – saw Mr Dixon there.
Wednesday 28 July – Drew a rough sketch from Mr Dixon’s survey of the two roads mine and Lockyear’s on each side of Mount York – Very rainy – my dray arrived in the evening. Mr Lewis called with Mr Dixon & gave me their sections of the road also plans.
Thursday 29 July – Very rainy – moved out to the tent. Wrote fair my reply respecting the road & enclosed it with the sketch & sent it at night to Colletts for the post – Recd a letter from Coll Snodgrass.
Friday 30 July – Wrote Mr Perry, also Coll Snodgrass & Mr Blunt – sent Mr Dixon’s report on the mountains to be enclosed in my official letter – also an errata of six words to be added to my letter. Sent all these by one of the road party messengers. Went to see the rock now[?] throwing[?] now[?] now on the new pass of Mt Victoria – a good deal done. Went into the huts & saw the men at dinner – bread very good – In the evening Mr Rankin came with Dr Bielby although it was near sunset I rode up with them & shewed them the pass of Victoria - of which they highly approved.
Saturday 31 July. Went up to level this line of ascent from the flat ground upwards accompd by Messrs Butler & Davidson. Very cold work – got as far as the rock by ½ p. 3. Sent the youngsters home and sketched the rock as it stood half demolished – returning found no horse where I left a man with him – I had to walk half way home – which made my ankle bad again – found the horse had run off after the other horses & the man after him.
[Page 60]
Sunday 1 Augt [1830]. Copied with the Camera Lucida and tinted the view of the rock of the pass. Mr Walker came late in the evening. My leg being worse and the weather also bad & likely to continue so, I determined on going soon down to Sydney.
Monday 2 Augt. Proceeded with Messrs Butler & Davidson to complete my section of the ascent of Victoria – explained the nature of tracing ridges to them – got this work completed & returned in good time. Met Dougherty on the range who had returned from Mr. Maxwell with his house! The dray had also returned from Parramatta without gunpowder or tools! Sat up late writing Instructions for Messrs Dixon, Lewis and Butler.
Tuesday 3d Augt. Got my bill from Mr Colletts £2.9/6 & gave Mr Elliot a £5 chk on B. of Austa he giving me the difference & to pay Mr Collett. Packed up every thing gave Mr Butler a packhorse & 2 buckets corn & Mr Dixon 2 buckets corn for the old pack horse- and then started for Sydney with Wood on a packhorse carrying the plan case etc – also a musket. Messrs Elliot and Dixon accompanied me to the top of the ranges, and Dixon took me to a cleared station near Bunton’s hut ([Indecipherable]) whence, with the Theodolite, I had a good view of Mt Hay & Mt Walker getting the Eln & depn also some other very useful angles. This was the first time I had seen Mt Hay since it was cleared. The weather to the Westward was so strong that although I waited half-an-hour, I could not see Honeysuckle Hill. It blew very hard with sleet. Proceeded along this road to Sydney & reached the Weather Board by 7 o’clock.
[Page 61]
[This page is not connected to the preceding one. It comprises a short note and a sketch]
The present road subjects him to constant [Indecipherable] owing to its winding nature & running through the cultivated part of his farm. Proposed line perfectly level & better in every respect.
[A sketch showing the road from Cow Pastures to Argyle and the Nepean River. A curvey line is marked as “Present Road" and two names are written “Rumker" to the west of the Nepean R. and Mr Harpur to the east]
[Page 62]
[Blank page with ink blotches]
[Page 63]
[A set of tables “printed by R. Mansfield for the Executors of R.Howe" and headed:]
Table, shewing the distances at which different angles are subtended by a body, six feet long.
[Below this heading are columns headed:]
Angle in Minutes [and] Feet
[Page 64]
[This page is a hand written version of the previous page with the same headings and exactly the same numbers]
[Page 65]
[This page comprises two sketches and notations. One is upside down. The first sketch is “½ inch scale", shows the Hunter River and a property with the name Wilkinson written in it. Other notations numbered from a to f are explained as follows:]
a. Richd Clarke 80 Acres, pr gt [private gate?] reported on and approved by HMR. No 113/28
b. Greyburn 50
c. Parnell 50 [The following comment is bracketed applies to both Greyburn and Parnell] ordered by Col. Sec Letter to be taken at Maitland
d. d. E Kealy 100 to be reported in the next Half Monthly
e. a vacant spot just selected by Mary Granger but ordered to be reserved
f. Phelm Hughes 40 – ordered by the S.G. [Solicitor General] to be chartered on that spot
[Second sketch. This is an enlargement of “e.the vacant spot" above with two more plots marked a and b]
a. Jas Moody 4.3.36°
b. John Rotten “
[Page 66]
[This is a page of 26 surveying records (numbered 1 to 26) with most difficult to read. A few examples of the data provided are:]
Elv [Elevation] 16 SV[?] 6°.10’ Rod 1.17 <[Indecipherable] 152.25
Elv 17 SV 4.10 Rod 0.47’ <17w18 159.3
Elv 18 SV 5.10 Rod 1.20 <18w19 165.56
Elv 19 SV 3.40 Rod 1.7 <19w20 239.40
Elv 20 SV 4.12 Rod 2.50
[Page 67]
[This is possibly the back of an envelope with the word “Immediate" written and a few numbers added together with no wording]
[Page 68]
[This is a continuation of page 66 with elevations from 27 to 31. Also difficult to read]
[Page 69]
[Appears to be an envelope with some numbers added up but with no comment or description of what they are. Written in ink is:]
Major Mitchell
Sydney
[and another name that is Indecipherable]
[Page 70]
[A torn page with lists of numbers added up but with no comments]
[Page 71]
[A list of elevations numbered from 1 to 38. Similar in detail to the list on page 66 but with different numbers for each elevation. The purpose of this list of elevations is expressed below.]
From the Position the Cross occupies in the Heavens – the hour of the night may be determined – and as the bearing of this remarkable and easily known Constellation may be useful to travellers in the Southern Hemisphere, the following Diagram and Table have been invented by Mr Rainker and by him presented to Mrs Darling to whom this who who has been pleased to sanction its publication for general utility
[Also on the page is an address:]
Harper Shipwright
Works at [Indecipherable] suite
Sussex Street,
[The diagram referred to does not appear]
[Page 72]
[This is a receipt]
Barrah Barrah July 17th 1828
Received of Major Mitchell Surveyor General
One Pound for 6 pr Boots 42 pr shoes repairing for his men
Thomas Taylor
[Page 73]
[A drawn and coloured in map showing an unnamed river that is the Nepean, and farms, farmers’ names and acreage owned. The names that can be read are as follows from l to R, top to bottom:]
Dr Rutherford 2560
I.L.[Indecipherable] Gillisrady[?]
F.Stranger 400 for 640
H.D.Owen 1100
T.V.Bloomfield 2000
Richd Clarke 80
W.B.Wilkinson 1000
Mary Hunt [? seems the same plot as occupied by Mary Granger referred to on page 65]
Maloney [the area is missing as the page is torn]
J. Rotten [Indecipherable]
J.J.Maugham 1230
Johns 99
F.McDougal 900
Beardman 60
Smith 140
Goldingham 500
P.Allen 150
Riley 64
Mitchell 116
Mitchell
Martin Clayton 80
Eckford 100
Eckford 100
Eckford 100 [ie he has three plots of 100 acres each]
Griffiths 250
I.F.Wickham 646
F.Close 2050
Saml Marshal 60 acres
[Page 74]
[Written upside down at the top of the page]
Gravel apparently deposited when diluvial currents were subsiding in the valleys of the Bell & Macquarie
This situation being in the angle formed by the confluence of these rivers.
Rocks of which hills are composed
10 June 1830 – The bed of Cox’s river under Mt Walker – a black rock of the trap kind very hard – say Basalt – the ridges of it crop out on the Western toe of the Mountain running in a direction nearly North. It is remarkable that the hills above this - between the river and Mt Bowen for instance – consist of Granite – passing to decomposition.
The rocks on the River Lett (S. bank) where the road crosses
Granite, those on the brow of the hill N side, trap.
There is a good bit of soil – just opposite the W, bend Cox’s River – under Mt Walker in a nook – say 20 acres.
Specimens 1 and 2 are organic remaining from the hollw rocks named by Dixon – Rivers of Babylon – on the line of road to Bathurst N of the River Lett – 3 is also from them – 4 is a piece of the trap in the bed of Cox’s River just above my bridge site.
12 June. The ridge ascending from Cox’s River is slaty till we reach the hills under Honeysuckle Hill which are of trap.
13 June The bed of Solitary Creek where the line crosses trap (5) appearing like strata much inclined. Towds the East – further up in the S. side of Honeysuckle Hill there is a breccia (6) and near the top the very fine grained white sand stone (7). Immediately under the hill on the Western part of the ridge granite occurs and in the bed of the little rivulet between that and Hayes – very compact pieces of Whin or Trap (the rough coated kind) – and at Hayes Stn Granite appears again – and is also on the line of road descending to the hollow below it.
15 June – Granite appears in the hollow just before ascending that ridge which connects with one towards the Fish River and also on the N.ward of Hayes I found different hills covered with different sorts of stone -: that first to the NW. of the hollow crossed by the road, East of these being the head of the long valley from Hayes – found a rather curious stone with layers of silex & sandstone (10)(2)
16th June. The hill last on the Walking road – West of [Indecipherable] range is composed of a stem something like the Burr stones 911). The plains seem to be chiefly decomposed Granite, no water worn pebbles are found but angular fragments such as pieces of quartz (12) which was probably a constituent part of granite before its decomposition.
17th June. The hills descending towards Bathurst consist of Quartz Rock (13) – a compact Schist (14) and mica slate (15)
[Page 75]
Specimens from the upper part of Kingdom Ponds
1. Fossil wood found on Tullong Downs broken form a stump (Limestone)
1a. Do Do found detached (not lime)
1b. Do Do Do
2. Livingstone found these in large Boulders – this was from an irregularly pointed piece of about half a cubic foot.
3. Rock forming the ridges l and m of my sketch near the Volcano (near the bottom of the gully)
4. A conglomerate – found in some parts of the beds of the gullies (neat 1st Str on the West) – generally so soft as to be cut like soap, but this was found near the Volcano. (2 spns [specimens])
5. From the high hill over the Volcano – (a)
6. The matrix of the rock forming the upper part of the hill West of the Volcano.
7. Singular specimen found among the agates in the black soil – South over the Volcano – between it and the little hill of Trap.
8 to 22. Specimens of Agates from the same spot.
23. A hollow specimen which once probably contained water.
24. Chalcadonic specimen from the same spot.
25 to 28* Conglomerate forming the base of the hills North of the Volcano, the specimens were found near the gully from the Volcano – at the plan where water is found, and contains shells which I have only seen in this situation.
29 Breccia – from near the Volcano.
30. From the plains near the Kingdon Ponds and West of the hills where the burning hill is.
2a 2b Limestone from Tallong Downs (see 2)
47-48 Volcanic
49 From Stn 1st
50 Base of these mountains (from the gully W of Stn 1st
51. 52 Limestone forming a conic hill 3 miles S of Volcano, also 53. 54.
55. From 4 miles S of Volcano
[Page 76]
31. Rock on the road some miles above Mr Scotts land.
32. From the hill behind Segenhoe (Ridgemount)
33. From the bed of a little creek on the road from Bowmans McLeods to Scotts
34 Do Do
35 From the bed of Pages River at Segenhoe
36* The Rock under the house at Segenhoe
37 From the bed of the river there
38 Do Do
39 Near Pages River
40 Do Do
41 Basalt from the Breccia in the bed of a creek (see 33 etc)
42 ,strike>and 44 & 45 From Pages River.
46 From Kingdon Ponds
47,48 Volcanic
56 From bed of Kingdon Ponds
Wataikan – Sugarloaf Creek
Warrawolong – (The Wullawolong of Jellore Stn)
[Page 77]
[Some Aboriginal language and meaning]
[Indecipherable] – alsa cumncha (waal [Indecipherable]) war
kangaroo eat it spear joy – head throwing
Yadte bucanal bewan muringo [Indecipherable]
[Indecipherable] jag fat ribs sinews
Tonbero cudtakango colars thure
Tail head leg old woman
narronghopmurrow alongho mekileiko
arms hand eyes
Skinno murringh tambulo [Indecipherable]aiko
Feet ribs muscles heart
Toko nao curro par [Indecipherable]
Lights Liver testicles whiskers young kangaroo
Piang Thurra narraan curwur murre – curwa
old woman large old woman young man old woman
Curroban mando wilhe warrong cundra
Monkey Bandicoot opossum paddymelon cat
Cannema pelin-kang mewer-re carrakang
Kangaroo rat flying squirrel emu ringtail kang
menungtia eu-yu pattowa koko pelin
little fellow fly away
Compelwa curratok pudtanbang palaan
Bustard Native companion duck watermole
Wurrumbal malanghan moyoling waak
Woodduck eel large eel fish
Branghur, cuikekan, tinhak, wongwa
Laughing grass, little squirrel, Swan, -
Mulingang pokarre moikke wakarra
- - black cockatoo
By Billy Yerramagung
Burro burro burga la alganda alai
- - algaba ondula alai
Gubi gubi gay ganba regay
Alu gan ba geba gure guien gay
Spear thrown but miss the kangaroo
gnardyon - Water
[Page 78]
Arabun uma enimya aray inglay
Wanumbula ingay enimile ingay
Can’t find the Kangaroo gangaroo
Mid me durga en ga ma mega la
[Indecipherable] inmuderra [Indecipherable] nalluderra enbra
Kangaroo looks but sees nobody
Burrunburgawindeginye uringango
Kuto kutovringa hun beringang [Indecipherable]cumbiaga
Kangaroo [Indecipherable] away & the native kills it
Moruda yerraba Tundajkirrara[?] Bis
road goes Creaking [Indecipherable] shoes
Moruda yerraba meniginging white ma la Bis
Road goes uncle & brother white man see
He who has left Brittania’s happier shore
For these vile woods, may think with heart full sore
On that lov’d isle and sigh
Sigh for the earthly heaven he once posest
As lovers languish for the lips they prest,
Then let me pray nor be my pray’r in vain,
To see thy shores Britannia once again
To meet old friends beneath thy hills of snow
To drink the limpid streams & see the primrose grow
Content and happy there to live and die
To view thy verdant fields & bless thy cloudy sky.
[Page 79]
[This is a detailed map with about 30 detailed survey references. On it is written:]
Trace of the Road from Paddy’s River towards Goulburn Plains, by the right bank of the Wollondilly.
The distances are in feet measured by the micrometer
[Page 80]
[Continuation of the map on the previous page together with survey statistics]
[Page 81]
Wants in the Bush July 1829
Horse shoes & nails
Rasp, hammer & pinchers
Iron for linen
A spade
Salt
Curry Powder
Rice
Raisins
Ham
A Dozen small files for axes
Some small wedges
Hemp & Rope & Awls for mending harness
½ a dozen Curb Hooks
Sage & onions
Good axes & Tomahawks
Candles, a good stock
Loaf sugar in paper broken
Onions
Spare yokes & bows
[Page 82]
1828-29-30
Sir T. L. Mitchell
Field Note and Sketch Book
Madiera – Maitland – Jellore – Wiseman’s Ferry
Wellington Caves
[Indecipherable]
[Transcriber’s notes:
The Buffs – Royal East Kent Regiment.
Bell River – joins the Macquarie River on the NW edge of Wellington after running along the W edge of the town.
Breccia -a rudaceous rock (coarse grained) consisting of sharp fragments embedded in clay or sand
Buree – now called Borenore Caves, about 20 kms W of Orange.
Calcareous – containing calcium carbonate; chalky.
Camera Lucida – an optical device used as a drawing aid. It superimposes an image of the subject on the surface upon which the artist is drawing.
Cape Hawke – presumably the Cape Hawke on the coast near Forster, NSW.
Chain – a chain is 22 yards, 80 chains per mile.
Chalcadonic - translucent to transparent milky or grayish quartz with microscopic crystals arranged in slender fibres in parallel bands giving a stripey appearance when usually cut.
Cockbundoon – Mitchell clearly writes the name this way but it now appears to be spelled Cookbundoon, about 15kms NE of Goulburn.
Conobolas – Mt Conobolas is about 30km W of Bathurst and 15 kms SW of Orange. It is an extinct volcano and is 1,390m high. Could not find anything about Mt Lachlan.
Cordeaux – William Cordeaux (1792-1839) came to NSW in 1818 and became Deputy Assistant Commissioner General. One of his duties was joint commissioner for apportioning the territory to divide NSW into counties and parishes, to make a valuation of all the waste and unoccupied land in each county and to reserve a seventh (in area and value) of each tract of land for the Clergy and School Estates. He and the other commissioners were accused of working too slowly and their positions were abolished in November 1830, their function being taken over by the surveyor-general. Cordeaux was a director of the Bank of Australia and a member of a Protestant committee in opposition to Government schools and secular education. He received considerable land grants and made his home at Leppington, Liverpool.
Diluvial - superficial deposits formed by flood like movements of water and contrasted with alluvial deposits formed by the slow and steady movements of water.
Eolian valley - Aeolian or Eolian processes pertain to wind activity and its shaping of the surface of the earth.
Farmer’s Creek is about 1.5kms NE of Lithgow on the N edge of the suburb of Morts Estate.
Gig - a light two-wheeled carriage pulled by one horse.
Hatchetine is Hatchettine or Mineral tallow; a waxy substance, commonly of a greenish yellow colour.
Grauwacke is the German spelling of Graywacke, a variety of sandstone characterised by its hardness and dark colour.
Kingdon Ponds – about 8kms N of Scone.
Macquarie River runs across the Nand NW of Wellington and is joined by the Bell River on Wellinton’s NW edge.
Molong – the cave referred to is discussed in The Molong History News Vol II, Spring 2016 as follows: “Mitchells Cave? From several descriptions provided by Historical Society members it seems clear that the most likely site of Mitchell?s cave visit was the one near the corner of Watson & Molong Streets, opposite the silos. This corresponds to an older description from the Wellington Times & the Bathurst Times in May 1920, of a cave being on “the rocky slope off Watson Street opposite the railway goods yard". Mitchell arrived there after a long 38 mile journey on 24th June 1830 & only stayed overnight, so wouldn?t have strayed far from whatever accommodation was nearby on the flat area."
Negus - a hot drink of port, sugar, lemon, and spice.
Ornithorinchus paradoxus – a duck billed platypus
Capt Pike – 1870-1863, Lieutenant John Pike first came to New South Wales with Colonel Lachlan Macquarie and the 73rd regiment in 1809. He then went to Ceylon in 1814 returning a Captain to NSW in 1825 with his wife and daughter. He was granted 2000 acres of land in the Hunter River area which he called Pickering, and also applied for permission to purchase another 4000 acres adjoining the grant.
Mr Rankin - - was apparently a magistrate and businessman from Bathurst and was the first person to report the bone caves at Wellington, in the Sydney Gazette.
Ramsden – Englishman Jesse Ramsden made optical instruments like telescopes, theodolites and sextants during the middle of the 18th century. One such instrument, was a sextant much prized by Captain Cook in his voyages of discovery in the Great Southern Oceans. Probably the finest 18th century instrument maker was the Englishman Jesse Ramsden.
Ruins of Babylon – possibly now called Hassans Walls.
Salvator - Salvator Rosa (1615 – 1673) was an Italian Baroque painter who was active in Naples, Rome, and Florence. He is best known as "unorthodox and extravagant".
Schist – medium grained metamorphic rock with medium to large, flat, sheet-like grains in a preferred orientation ie grains are roughly parallel so often giving a stripey appearance to the stone or rock.
Tempe – the reference is to Tempe a valley in northern Thessaly, between mount Olympus at the north, and Ossa at the south, through which the river Peneus flows into the Ægean. The poets have described it as the most delightful spot on the earth, with continual cooling shades, and verdant walks, which the warbling of birds rendered more pleasant and romantic, and which the gods often honoured with their presence
Trap rock - a name for any dark-coloured igneous rock used to produce crushed stone. Basalt, gabbro, diabase, and peridotite are the most common rock types referred to as trap rock.
Ultima Thule - in medieval geographies denotes any distant place located beyond the "borders of the known world".
Warrang – rock wallaby
The Weatherboard Hut – Pitt Park in Wentworth falls now covers the site of the Weatherboard Inn rebuilt in 1826 after a fire. The Weatherboard Hut was completed at the site on the eastern side of the Jamison Creek, approximately at the rail embankment below the road bridge at Wentworth Falls. It was used to house the men and tools as they pushed the road forward (Blaxland Road). Wentworth Falls was originally known as Weatherboard because of the weatherboard construction of the first building in the area. On 8th October 1814.
Whinstone – a term used in the quarrying industry to describe any hard dark-coloured rock. Examples include the igneous rocks, basalt and dolerite, as well as the sedimentary rock, chert.]
[Transcribed by Robert Woodley for the State Library of New South Wales]