Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales

Log and journal of HMS Resolution on Captain Cook’s third voyage, on HMS Resolution, 2 January-5 September 1778, kept by James King

[Page 7]
[Previous pages are covers and blank pages]
Weather &c. Friday Jany. 2 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh Breezes & Cloudy
5 In 1st. Reef Topsails
7 Do. Wr.
12 Do, Wr.
[AM]
4 Do, Wr.
6 Weighd. & made Sail
8 Fresh Breezes & fair Ext:m:. of the Land S ¾ & SEb.E.
10 Stowed the Anchors
11 Carpenters Caulking the Main Deck
12 Do. Wr. & Cloudy
Discovery Compy

[Page 8]
Weather &c. 3d. Jany. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. Breezes & Cloudy
4 Do Wr.
8 Squally with small rain wore Ship, fired 2 Guns & made the Signal to the Discovery
12 Do, Wr, Wore Ship
[AM]
2 Squally close & emp’d the Mizen Top sail
4 Mod. & fair
6 Made Sail fresh brees. & fine Wr.
8 Do. Wr.
11 Carpenters Caulking the Main Deck
12 Moderate & fair
Discovery in Comy.

[Page 9]
Weather &c. 4th. Jany. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. Breezes & fair Wr. with a NE Swell
4 Do, & Cloudy
7 Squally with small rain In 2d Reefs & handed the Mizen Top sail
9 Wore Ship Do. Wr.
12 Fresh Breezes & Squally
[AM]
1 Wore Ship
4 Mod. & Cloudy
5 Out reefs & Made Sail
8 Do. Wr.
9 Out all Reefs
12 Mod. & fair
Discovery in Compy:

[Page 10]
Weather &c. Monday Jany. 5 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod: breezes & fine Wr:
4 Do Wr. Swell from NE
7 In 1st. reefs
8 Light Breezes & fair
9 Hazey up Main sail
12 Hazey with rain
[AM]
2 Wore Ship dark squally Wr. with Little Wind at times
3 Drizling rain
4 Wore Ship
6 Out all reefs & made Sail
7 Mod. Breezes & Cloudy Wr,
8 Drizling rain
9 Exercis’d the Boat Crew at small arms
10 Mod. Breezes & Squally with rain
11 In 1st. reef Top sails
12 Mod. breezes & fair Wr.
Discovery in Compy.

[Page 11]
Weather &c. Tuesday Jany: 6. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & Cloudy with a great head sea
3 Many birds about
5 Squally
8 Shortn’d Sail
12 Mod. & Cloudy Wore Ship
[AM]
1 Small rain
2 Wore Ship
4 Do Wr.
5 Made Sail.
6 Unbent F.T.G sail & bent the Old one
8 Fresh breezes & Cloudy
9 Found the Main [indecipherable] broken Empd. Fix it again
11 Carpenters as yesterday
12 Serv’d the Maggellen Jacketts & Trowsers
Fair Wr.
Discovery in Compy.

[Page 12]
Weather &c. Wednesday Jany. 7th. 1780
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & fair Wr. with a head sea
4 Do: Wr:
6 Many birds about Ship
8 Do; Wr:
9 Shortn’d Sail
11 Squally with rain
12 Little Wind & Cloudy wore Ship
[AM]
2 Showers Wore Ship
4 Little Wind & small rain
5 Small rain
7 Pass’d a large branch of a tree without leaves
10 Exercis’d people at small Arms
11 Carpenters as yesterday
12 Fresh Breezes & squally with rain The F.T.G. sail split & blew to pieces, bent another
Discovery in Compy.

[Page 13]
Weather &c. Thursday Jany: 8th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh Breezes & Squally with rain
6 Shortn’d Sail
12 Do; Wr:
[AM]
1 Showers of rain
4 Do; Wr:
8 Little wind, & Cloudy
9 Fresh Breezes & Squally in 1st. reefs split the Sprit sail, Unbent the Main top sail to mend
11 Little Wind & hazey Wr.
12 Calm & fair
Discovery in Compy.

[Page 14]
Weather &c. Friday Jany: 9th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light Airs & Calms & fine Wr.
3 Bent the Maintop Gt: Sail
8 Do: Wr:
9 Light. Airs
12 Little Wind & fair Wr:

[AM]
4 Light breezes
7 Out all reefs
8 Do, Wr: Exercis’d the people at small arms with [Carts?]
10 Carpentrs. caulking the Main deck. Clean’d & smooth’d between decks
12 Serv’d turtle daily to S. Compy.
Do: Wr.
Discovery in Compy:

[Page 15]
Weather &c. Saturday Jany: 10th, 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & fine Wr:
8 Squally with rain
12 Cloudy
[AM]
2 Some Showers
4 Mod. & fine Wr.
8 Fresh Breezes & fair
10 Sailmakers repairing the Sprit sail
12 Mod. breezes & fair Wr.

[Page 16]
Weather &c. Sunday Jany: 11th, 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & fine Wr.
3 Saw several turtle
6 Saw a man of war bird
8 Do: Wr:
12 fine Wr:
[AM]
4 Mod. & Cloudy
8 Fine Wr:
11 Saw a turtle
12 Fresh breezes & fine Wr:
Discovery in Compy.

[Page 17]
Weather &c. Monday Jany: 12th, 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & fair Wr:
2 Saw, 6 turtle & Several Birds
4 Do, Wr. Showers of rain
6 Saw, a Man of war, Bird
8 Do: Wr: lost a log
12 Fresh breezes & fair
[AM]
4 Do: Wr:
8 Fresh breezes & fair
9 Empd. drawing & knotting Yarns & Making nippers
11 Carpentrs: caulkg: main deck
12 Fresh breeses & fair Wr:

[Page 18]
Weather &c. Tuesday Jany: 13th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & fine Wr:
4 Do: Wr:
6 Squally, In 1st. reef Top sails,
8 Do: Wr:
12 Squally with rain
[AM]
1 Mod. & Cloudy
5 Fresh breezes & fair
8 Do: Wr:
11 Unbent the Cables & Stow’d the Anchors
12 Fres breezes & Cloudy
Discovery in Compy:

[Page 19]
Weather &c. Wednesday Jany. 14th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & fine Wr:
2 Empd: pointing a new Suit of Topsails
4 Do. Wr:
6 Cloudy
8 Do: Wr:
12 Do: & hazey
[AM]
1 Small rain
7 Squally with rain
8 Fresh Breezes & Cloudy
10 Fresh Gales & fine Wr: Got the top Gallt: yds: down
12 Employed as before
Do; & Hazey
Discovery in Compy:

[Page 20]
Weather &c. Thursday.Jany: 15th,
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh Breezes & hazey Wr:
4 Do: Wr:
8 Do: Wr:
12 Do. Wr:
[AM]
4 Do, Wr:
5 Squally with Showers
7 Fine Wr:
8 Showers
9 Fresh Gales & fair Wr:
11 Got the new Sails, out of Sail room to air, people pickg: Oakum. Carprs: Caulkg.
Fresh Gales & fine Wr.
Discovery in Compy:

[Page 21]
Weather &c. Friday Jany: 16th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh Breezes & fine Wr:
4 Do. Wr:
6 Cloudy
8 Do. Wr:
11 Squally with small rain
12 Fresh Breezes & Cloudy
[AM]
1 Mod: Wr:
3 Squally with little wind at times
4 Little winds & Cloudy
8 Mod. Breezes & fair
9 Got the FF.Gt: yard across
10 People Empd: pickg: Oakum
11 Cut up the Small Bowr: Cable
12 Carpentrs: as before, Fresh Breezes & fine Wr.
Discovery in Compy:

[Page 22]
Weather &c. Saturday Jany: 17th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh Breezes & fine Wr:
3 Do. Wr:
4 In 1st. Reefs Topsails
8 Do. Wr:
12 Do. Wr.
[AM]
4 Mod. Breezes & fair Wr.
8 Fresh Breezes & fair Wr.
10 Carpenters Caulking
11 People Empld: as Yesterday
12 Do. Wr.
Discovery in Compy:

[Page 23]
Weather &c. Sunday Jany: 18th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & fair Wr.
4 Do. Wr.
8 Light Breezes.
12 Mod,: Breezes
[AM]
4 Light Breezes & fair
6 Saw land bearing NEbE ½ E
7 Hoisted out the [Joly?] boat and sent her Onbd: Discovy:
9 Out reefs Boat return’d
10 Saw more Land beag. NbW
11 Sounded 150 faths. no Ground
12 Do. Wr.
Discovery in Compy:

[Page 24]
Weather &c. Monday Jany: 19th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & fair.
4 Do. Wr: Extreams of the Westernmost Iles from NbW ½ W to NW ½ N.
8 Light airs inclible: to Calms
12 Do. Wr:
[AM]
4 Light Airs & fair
6 Et,ermost Isle N81. ½ E, a peak’d hill on the Middle of the N81 ½ W.
9 Saw another Isle bearing W.b.N.at 8. light breezes & fine Wr. Ext.ms of the Westermost. NbW & NWbN
12 At Noon. Mod. breezes & fine Wr. Extrms: of the Wt.ern Isle from N.70W.to N81W abt. 2 Ls. It being Hazey in the horis.n to the Et.wd. We could not see the Et.ermost Isles
Discovery Compy.

[Page 25]
Sandwich Islands
Jany: 19. 1778.
At Noon we were about 2 leagues from the land; hitherto its appearance was not very inviting; the part we stood towards was highland from the Sea, rugged & barren, & this appearance it continued to have to the NE, but to the Wt:ward the land appear’d prettily diversify’d with hill & valley or rather gently sloping from the rising grounds to the Sea side with intervals of deep Chasms, In the midst of our conjectures whether or no the land was inhabited by human beings, we saw two canoes pulling towards the Ship & that they might the more readily join us we shortn’d sail & brot. to. they paddled close to the Ship with very little hesitation, but could not be prevail’d on to come on board, two other canoes joind these, there were from 3 to 5 in each; they were naked except a narrow strip of painted Cloth, that seem’d to be made from the paper Mulbery plant, pass’d between the legs & round the waist, like the Maro of the Islands, the Captain sent them down some Medals, & they in return sent us up some Mackerel; they did not much regard the Medals, but made motions for some instrument to bore or cut, on which a small nail or two was thrown into their Canoes, and we soon observ;d that they had a knowledge of this metal; but that it must be scarce from their fondness of so small a bit of it; but what more that all surpris’d us, was, our catching a sound of Otaheite words in their speach & on asking them for hogs, breadfruit, yams, in that Dialect, we found we were understood, & that these were in plenty; this Specimen of the Natives were in Colour; between that of the Otaheite & the Friendly

[Page 26]
Sandwich Islands
Jany. 19th. 1778
Islanders & in this respect the nearest to the new Zeelanders; they were not tall, but of strong muscular make; & there was a great variety in the shape of their visages; some of them had beards, & their Hair was cut, in some short & in one the hair from the crown to the back was left thick & bushy whilst the sides were cut very short; which gave his head of hair the shape & figure of a light horsmans Cap, in others it was long; they had no ornaments about their persons except being punctulal’d a little in the Loins & thighs, If their knowledge of Iron made us suppos’d they had seen Ships, and people of our Colour, their expressions of astonishment & Surprise, were stronger marks that we were a new sight to them. At one oClock we bore away for the Lee side of the Island, steering within a League of the Coast, which for some length hereabout has a western direction, we had no Soundings with 50 fathoms line, till we came opposite a low point where we met with 16 fam. rocky bottom; from this point the coast tends a little Northerly; we pass’d a village containing about 20 or 30 houses, built near a small beach on the Sea side, the houses look’d at a distance like so many hay stacks, the sides were low & all close except a door which was generally at the end; There were 2 or 300, people about this village looking at us as we pass’d, & many in Canoes that tried to paddle after us, but we went too fast for them, when we came round the flatt point, we open’d a small high Island to the West which we had not before seen; the Country look’d better the farther we proceeded, & the Villages grew

[Page 27]
Sandwich Islands
Jany: 19th. 1778
thicker; we could see the higher hills, that were opening coverd with verdure, also spots cultivated on the rising grounds which. – we suppose to be potatoe fields, & a few others that had something growing higher, which we took for Sugar Canes, the people on shore kept trallooing to us, & holding up something. whilst many came off in their Canoes, bringing potatoes & Small pigs; for which they took small nails, & many rather than carry them away, would give them to the Sailors. We continued having Soundings, but seeing no break that might afford us Shelter & or any place that had good landing before dark, we spent the Night on difft:. Tacks to keep our station; At day light stood in with the Land, & sent two of our boats with one from the Discovery, all Arm’d, under the Command of Lieutenant Williamson to search for good Anchorage, Opposite a convenient landing place, where fresh water might be found, whilst the ship in the mean time went slowly on; we were soon Surrounded by Canoes, and many of the Natives came onboard; If yesterday we judg’d from their surprise that they had never beheld such bodys as our Ships, we were now the more convinced of it from their entire ignorance of every thing they saw, & from their singular behaviour in many instances; whatever was Moveable, they would Openly try to take away, & without expecting any resistance; but when they found that they were not sufferd to do that, they shew’d that they were as dextrous in theiving secretly as any of the other Islanders; We took some of them into the Gunroom to observe their behaviour & to put Questions to them; when we ask’d what this Iron was, & where it came from, they told us, they did not know, but that we knew; when we shew’d them beads they ask’d if they should eat them, or

[Page 28]
Sandwich Islands
Jany. 20
or what was their use, we told them only to hang to their Ears, on which they return’d them to us as useless, for their ears are not pierced; they also return’d looking Glasses, saying they did not know what these things were for, But of Iron they knew its use for boring & to make To.’c’s, (Hatchets) & wanted them large. they observ’d with attention our Cloaths, & seem’d to think the Substance different from their own; but at first they took Otaheite Cloth to be the same, however they soon tried if it would tear, which finding it to do, they did not care for it. They were quite ignorant of what our China Cups were made of, taking them for wood & asking for some that those on shore might look at them; they were very curious & doubtfull what our Ships sails &c. were made of - In their behaviour they were very fearful of giving offence, asking if they should sit down, Or spit upon the decks &c, & in all their conduct seem’d to regard us as Superior beings Before they came on board, many made an Oration, or prayer,, & brought small Pigs as if to make presents to some Cheifs, Others were extravagant in their joy at seeing us, & sung & made a few Motions with their hands like the friendly Islanders; By noon Mr.. Williamson returnd with an account, that he had seen from the boats over the Beach a pond which he was told by the Natives, was good fresh water, that there was tolerable landing near it, & good anchorage offit; & that as he was going to land at another place the Natives came down in Crouds to the boat, & were for taking away the Oars & fire Arms, & what ever its was moveable, & he at last became apprehensive they would haul the boat. on shore, as he could not make them

[Page 29]
Sandwich Islands
Jany. 20th. 1778
desist by fair means, he found himself under the Necessity of firing by which a man was kill’d who tumbled out of the boat into the water, the Natives on this quitted the boat, & fled, but not till they took the dead body & Carry’d it away, along the beach, singing a melancholy l song, notwithstanding they beckon’d, him to come on shore, & made room but he declin’d it, Mr: Williamson had no Idea of their intending him or his party any injury, But that it was their great desire for the new things they saw, which brought on them so unfortunate a business. A boat was sent to remain on the Spot for Anchorage; the Ship followed her, & anchor’d by 3 Oclock in 25 fathm: fine grey sand with the best Bower, & veerd out a Cable, the East point of the road then bearing by the Compass, S.61°: Et – West point N75W. & a bluff head near the watering place N42Et. about ¾ of a mile from the Shore. we had no sooner anchord, then we found an awkward reef to leeward of us, within less than ¼ of a mile, The Captn. went on shore with three boats arm’d, a croud of people were on the Beach, & he beckon’d to them to sit down, which after the endeavours of a few old Men they did, & these came into the Water in a prostrating posture begging us to land; on the Captn. jumping on shore the Crowd fell prostrate on their faces, a number of small pigs were laid at his feet & presently a procession of about a dozen men came with plaintains & the tops of sugar canes in their hands, & two small pigs, an old man made a long oration in which he was often dictated to by one or two men; he sometimes stop’d, as waiting for the Captns,, Answer & after a short time went on; after this had last’d 15 Minutes the green branches were laid down

[Page 30]
Sandwich Islands
Jany: 20 1778
A trading circle being soon form’d, with the Guard to protect them, the Captn: took some of us to go & see the fresh Water, two Indians went before & as we pass’d along, every one prostrated them selve’s & were afraid to cast a look at us; The river which comes down the valley, spreads it self upon the flat land near the beach, where the broadest part of it is about 150 yards over, & not more than a mans depth; it becomes suddenly narrow just before it empty’s its self into the Sea; it is not so convenient, on Account of the Surf, getting the casks on shore, & off again here, as lower down where the casks must be roll’d about 200 yards thro’ part of the Village, all sandy & Good rolling way, the houses are scattered about the beach & a little way in the Valley, The whole village may contain about 60 houses; There are Many breaks, in the hills or small valleys which we saw to the Eastward of this place, but none where the break is so conspicuous & amp; large as where this river comes from; to leeward there are no such Chasms, but the land is more even, & rises gently to the tops of the highest hills, This river is the only piece of water we saw Except a brackish pond about a mile to the Wt:ward of the river, that is near the beach & runs parrelel to it for about a mile, this pond is not noticed in any of our Charts of this place; the land to the Wt. ward, does not look so rich & there are fewer houses on it, then to the Eastward. these natural break in the land answering the purpose, much better for the Cultivation of Plantains, Tarro, (Eddy) &c &c -
I have hitherto taken no notice of the women, although there were many of them in their Canoes that came to us in the morning;

[Page 31]
Sandwich Islands
Jany. 20th, 1778
There is not so great a difference. as in most places we have been at, between the features & proportions of the 2 sexes, they are the soonest distinguish’d by wearing a large piece of cloth, that wraps round their waist & reaches to the knees; what we saw in the boat were harsh featured, but with exceeding good natur’d countenances; on Shore We met with many young women whose forms were beautiful, but few with fine features. They were very desirous of coming on board, & their motions were too unequivical to leave us in any doubt of their intentions of gratifying us in all the pleasures the Sex can give; It is perhaps improper & indecent to mention this failing in the Females, but it must be remember’d that a person has it not in his power to avoid marking the occurrences of Inclination, which nature has implanted in these people, & as hurtful as they may be in a well regulat’d society, they here seem to require the same latitude & indulgence as other appetites; nor do they imagine a Contrary practice obtains among strangers who appear to be equally entitled to the same indulgency, I do not mean that the women are void of all shame & Modesty; I saw instances to day on shore of true feminine modesty & Bashfullness & where a Contrary practice is observable, it is too often occasiond by our encouraging them in it; The Captn: had given strict orders, that no one should have any intercourse with the women &, he took many precautions to hinder it being very apprehensive that to these as well as to almost all the Islands he had hitherto visited, he should leave

[Page 32]
Sandwich Islands
Jany. 20 1778
the saddest disease that ever heaven in its wrath, plagued mankind with & the more tolerable to these nations, who do not consider their indulgencies as criminal.
21st: In the Morning the Captain with some Officers, & a guard went on shore & whilst some were attending to the watering duty, others trading for provisions, & some cutting grass, the Captain, Doctor, & Mr. Webber went up the Valley with the intention of Examining a wooden frame which from the Ships had the appearance of an Obelisk; but finding this to be the Opposite side of the river, they contented themselv’s with viewing a burying place, at one end of which was the same structure but much less in size, the former they judg’d to be 50 feet high, & this only 20 which was compos’d of four slender upright poles, inclosing a square of 4 feet, the poles were work’d round with twigs to the top, this they call’d, Hana-nanoo; near this place was a stage resembling the whatta’s at Otaheite, with pieces of plantains laid on it; this with carved wooden images on each side, gave the whole so much the appearance of an Otaheite Morai, that our Gentlemen began to enquire whether human sacrifices were not practis’d here as well as at the other Islands, & they were soon shewn the places where their Chiefs where buried, the ground being somewhat lower than the rest, & near these places, was an oblong space also a little sunkin, where they said their Tengata laboo’s were buried & they made signs, that they were

[Page 33]
Sandwich Islands
Jany. 21st, 1778
knock’d on the head one for each Chief, This barbarous & horrid Custom seems also more prevalent here, than in any Island we have visited as this morai was a very indifferent one, & that there were a great number, which by their size were of more consequence, particularly the Han’oo-na-noos that pile being also cover’d in part with white Cloth. the next thing that took their attention was a large house 40 long, ten broad & the same height, the entrance was in the Middle; the rest of the sides being close; opposite the door was a whatta (or altar) with two carv’d images of women, much preferable in the exicution than to the other carved images; one of these had a cap shap’d like the helmet of a light horseman, the other had on the head a turban, or exactly resembling the [To’mou?] of Otaheite the Natives had no objection to these figures which they call’d oa tooa [indecipherable] being examind; near this house were other square spots, some deeper than the common level, where seven Chiefs were laid, & near this another another place for the Tongata taboo’s the whole of this Morai was inclos’d with a stone wall, about four feet high. In the afternoon I went on shore to assist in the business going forward; as there appeard no chief of sufficient authority to keep the Indians in order where curiosity would often incommode us, I did not chuse to go to any distance; but from what I gatherd from those who went farther up the Country, I am enabled to proceed on with some remarks on it. The greatest part of the Village stands near the Beach, on the west side of the river or pond as we have before observ’d & consists of about 60 houses. but not reckoning stragling ones

[Page 34]
Sandwich Islands
Jany. 21st. 1778
which continue for a mile farther up, & there the Valley spreads, on the Eastside the river as well as the West, & both sides are interspersed with houses, for half a mile father were the Eastern direction of the Valey divides & diminishes in its Breadth; down the valleys run the rivers which join at the foot this steep hill, & proceed in one stream to the sea side overflowing the low land & making the piece of Water, where we fill’d our Casks. The land to the Eastward of the river & opposite the Watering place is of a moderate height, gradually declining to the Sea side where as on the West there is a tolerable border of low land before it rises to the hills, which on both sides are not wooded for two miles inland although the sides & tops of the highest mountains are tolerably well covered. The soil of the Valleys is of a blackish colour intermix’d with sand, & the ground about the Villages cut with ditches of Water intersecting in differant paths, & roads which are rais’d & seem artificially made, the interspaces are fields &c. of Tarro, (eddy root) which grow to a great size & are overflowed with Water; in the dryer places were plantations of Plantains, & the paper Mulberry tree, kept very clean and in good order; there were but few Coca nut & those small, with fewer bread fruit trees; the soil of the higher ground was of a red colour’d stiff Consistence & very good, but almost void of cultivation; there are now & then spaces of Potatoes beds & sugar canes, which however are generally in the Valley, this higher ground is doubtless capable of Cultivation, for the Grass is very high, & as we observ’d for a considerable

[Page 35]
Sandwich Islands
Jany 21st. 1778
extent it is clear of wood; this district they call Wy’.maia, the Island Atawi the larger one to the Wt.ward, Neehow, or Neehhuse-how, & the smaller one Oriehoua, & one we saw to Windward hooahoo,
22d, We had during the Night rain, & the Wind blowing from the SE & SSE, which sent such a popling swell in, as to make it unsafe to land for the Surf, altho’ we could not land; the Natives came often in their Canoes & brought hogs & vegetables to sell; towards noon it clear’d away, & the Wind came round to the East.
23d, But in the evening it shifted again to the Southwd; & was attended with rain; The Sea broke high upon the breakers astern of us & which were not more than two Cables lenths from us; we let go the small bower’ under foot & got down top Gallant Yards; towards the morning it was moderate weather, & a light breeze from the NE, & at 7 oClock we weigh’d in order to get farther out, but when we got under way the Wind came from the East which obliged us to make sail to get clear of the shore & when we tack’d in hopes to fetch the road, we found, with little wind, & a strong current to the Wt:ward, that we had fallen to Leeward, The Captain finding that we could not fetch, sent Mr. Williamson & me with the Launch Pinnace & Cutter on shore, for water & refreshments, & allso sent a Letter onboard the Discovery, which lay at anchor not having any wind to weigh.
24th, It was one oClock before we got on shore, when we could only see the Resolutions Topsails, I found a much larger croud then we had ever seen before, but no Chief that exerted any real power; whether there were

[Page 36]
Sandwich Islands
Jany. 24 1778
any present, but fearful of shewing themselves as such, we could not say we had got the name of their King, (call’d Tama’hahnoo) to whom they prostrate themselves in the manner they did to Captn. Cook, & we were always told he would be down the next day: they had brought down some very large hogs, but we had no Iron large enough to purchase them, A Laughable theft was commited by an Indian, to whom a young Gentleman of the Discovery had given a pewter Tureen with a roasted hog to carry on shore & he follow’d with the rest of the dinner, the Indian very composedly walk’d away with the Tureen, & getting among the houses before he was suspected escaped in a short time after he came to sell the roast pig to to the Sailors, We were as expeditious as we could to load the Launch with water & the other boats with hogs, Plantains, Potatoes, Salt &c. there was a very heavy surf, & it was with great difficulty, we got the things & our selves into the boats. It was between 4 & 5 before we set out for the Ship, whose T:Gt: Sails were now & then to be seen, as we had many heavy showers, we often could not see her at all, but there being plenty of Provisions in the Boats, & as we could always return to the Discovery, we continued on, the Pinnace & Cutter towing the Launch & between 8 & 9. got on board the Ship. Although there was no wind in the bay & we had showers of rain yet at the ship they had no rain & allways a light breeze of wind. during the Night very light airs & calm, & at daylight we found the Current had set us to the NW. so as to bring the west point of the Island (which) is called Atou’i) to bear East. the land trended away to the No.wd,

[Page 37]
Sandwich Islands
Jany. 24th. 1778
nor did we see either yesterday afternoon or this morning, the smallest break in the Land between the bay we anchor’d in & this west part of it to afford any shelter, but that the Surf broke violently againt the shore. at 8AM a fresh breeze sprung up, from the NNW., with which we steer’d SW. over for the Island call’d Nee hee how till [1/2 ?] past 11when being apprehensive, I suppose, that the Discovery might not see us & know our intentions &c. , tack’d & stood to the Eastward, At Noon the No. point in sight of Atou’i bore NNEt ½ E the South point E ½ No the high land of Nee hee how west 3 or 4 Leagues & a small Island to the Wt:ward of it NWbN ¼ No.
25th, At 2. PM. The wind dyed away & we had Calms & light Airs, variable till midnight, when we got a fresh & steady breeze from the ENE, with which we stood close haul’d to the SE. till daylight, when we wore & stood up for the road, in great hopes of fetching it, as we laid up No. for it, but at ½ past 10 we were close to the shore & could not fetch within 2 Leagues of the landing place which at tacking bore EbN ¼ N, the Discovery joind us, & from this time to the 29th, we try’d to work the distance to windward but we always lost Ground, if we got a little upon one tack we were sure to loose twice as much upon the other, till we got down upon Nee hee how, during this time we had no Communication except one or two Canoes that got on board, when we stood close in on the 25th, on
27th, the Night of the 27th. the Sergeant of the Marines fell overboard; he was a little in liquor & laid himself down to sleep upon the Gangway; the Ship had not much way through the water, & we toss’d overboard a pole that had a bell at one end & corks near the middle with a shot at the

[Page 38]
Sandwich Islands
Jany 27th, 1778
other end; this Machine was sent on board at longreach, & it was placed conveniently to be thrown overboard instantly; he got hold of this & kept the bell ringing, till a boat was hoisted out which pick’d him up: & also the Machine. That this is a useful thing the present instance prov’d, but it does not answer all the purposes the humane inventor meant it shou’d. the circular corks near the Middle were sufficiently large & extended for a man to sit upon, which by the shot sinking & keeping the probe upright, it was suppos’d he might easily do & the motion of the Waves wou’d then ring the Bell; but our most expert swimmers could never sit upon the Corks, in attempting it they always up set the pole; the only way to use it, was by holding any part in the hand, as if an Oar had been in the water: & by shaking it the Clapper would strike
29th, At ½ past 5 PM we saw asmall round Island, which we had not before seen bearing West, at the same time the N. part of Nee hee how bore NbW ½ W AM at & 8 being within a league of Ne hee how the Extreams of which bore N47W. & N25E; the Captn: sent the Master to examine for anchorage & a Watering place, we continued standing off, & on, till he returned with accounts of not being able to find water, but that there was anchorage off the Coast, we ran nearer to a Village we saw, & at noon came to with the best Bower in 25 fathoms fine grey sand, opposite the Wt: point of the Island; the SE point of the road bearing S75E & NW point being a remarkable Bluff head N & E of shore & 1 mile, the Island to the Westward call’d Teeora S51W. 7 Leagues, we learnt from the Discovery that she had weigh’d twice to join us, but had not wind to get out

[Page 39]
Sandwich Islands
Jany. 29th: 1778
that the day after we left the road of Atoui, the Chief of the Island came on board in a large Canoe with his Wife; that he was fearful of going on board, & would not go below; the people in the Canoes crouchd down while he passd them, the women only doing the same to his Wife & she to shew her inferiority frequently bended to her husband; the Chiefs Canoe without ceremony ran down, many Canoes of the Natives; the morning the Discovery left the road C: Clerke was told that the Chief had brought down to the Beach a present of Hogs, vegetables, Cloth &c. but he could not stay to receive it. We had no sooner anchord than many of the Natives came in their Canoes to see us; they were a more Miserable looking people then at Atoui; more disorderly in their manners & the Women remarkably immodest, the men readily came onboard, & shewd the same Astonishment & surprise as at the other Island. On C. Clerk’s coming on board & perceiving by some bustle in getting the Canoes out of his way, that he was a Chief those on board crouch’d down & did not rise till they were told, after staying onboard some time many desired to leave a lock of their hair on the deck after which they all left us. Mr. Gore went onshore to look for water & a good landing place. he found the best at the village but no Water nearer than ½ a mile which being but small & that indifferent & a very bad rowling way to it, could not answer our purpose those on shore bought a good many yams which this Island seems to abound in, principally & not in Hogs, or Plantains; they sold a sweet root called [Tei?], which has the size, shape, & much the resemblance of a large black yam, only the outside coat is rougher as if a good deal of the root adherd to it.

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Sandwich Islands
Jany. 30th, 1778
In the morning the boats were again sent with a Guard under Mr: Gore’s command, to purchase Yams, & Salt, which was here in great Quantity & got from a pond not far from the landing place, the Surf broke so violently on the shore, that Mr: Gore & the marines did not venture to come off in the boats that we sent for them, & for what they had purchas’d; most of it was lost & spoil’d in getting into the boats; the Captain was very uneasy at this staging onshore, being apprehensive, that his endeavours in hindering any connections with the women wou’d be now frustrated; the Wr. appearing unsettled although the Wind was light at 11 at night we weigh’d the Anchor & sail’d about ¾ of a mile farther out, & came to in 42 fathms: Water & veer’d a whole Cable, SE point of the road ESE, - NW. part N ¼ E.
31st, In the morning the boats were sent for the party onshore, but the Weather was now squally with rain Which threw such a Surf on the shore as to make it imposible to get near it with the Boats, bad as the Wr. was some sailing Canoes came from round the SE end of the Island, along side with Yams & a few hogs, in the afternoon the Wr. not mending; there was no sending for the people
Feby. 1, The Wr. became fair & Mod: & the boats were sent to a small Cove on the So end of the Island, at the foot of the Bluff, where they landed, & brought off the party. The Captain, went in the boat, & left on shore a he goat & two sheep, also a young Boar, & a Sow of the English breed, these were intended to have been left at Atoui had we fetch’d the road, which doubtless would have been better, as there is on this Island no superior Chief, the Natives

[Page 41]
Sandwich Islands
Feby: 1st, 1778
the Native saying the Island is subject to the Chiefs at Atoui.
2d, Fresh Gales & hazey PM, got down top Gallt: yards, at 8 the Ships drove off the Bank, hove the Anchor up & made sail, during the Night kept working to windward, the Wind at East, at day light we found ourselves considerably to leeward, so much as not to be able to fetch any part of the Island, we hoist’d an Ensign at the Main top Gallt: mast head, & fyr’d Guns for the Discovery to bear down to us, which at 11, we saw her dooing; got top Gallt: Yards up & stow’d the Anchors; the Wind fine & moderate, at noon the high land or Bluff the So part of Ne hee how S65E, high land on the North end N73° East Oree houa NbE ½ E, & Tarooa S10°W.
These new discover’d group of Islands which Captn: Cook has call’d Sandwich Islands extend from 22 ½ to 21 ½ North Latitude & in Longitude from 199 ½ East to 201 °,, 2’ Et, they consist of 5 that we have seen, & call’d by the Natives, Wo.’ahoo, Atoui, Nee hee how, Orahooa, & Taoora, of the first we only saw a point , & can only Observe, that the Natives speak of it as being as large as Atoui & abounding in the same productions, & govern’d by a separate Chief; Atoui is ten Leagues long & its breadth about six we did not see the No.ern side of the Island & therefore can not be so certain as to its demensions in breadth; we have already remark’d its appearance, in running a long the So. part of it its western side was hills rising gently to a great height, & to the No,ward it appear’d to be

[Page 42]
Sandwich Islands
Feby. 2d, 1778
broken & rugged, as it did also on the NE. part, the Quality of its soil may be better understood from its products then its appearance; the Vales & moist parts produce Tarro (or Eddy root) of a greater size & better flavour than we have ever met with, Plantains are very good but not in such plenty as in the Other Islands, & there are but few Breadfruit; a few coco nut trees & a few coco Palms, there are several large trees of the Dooi Dooi (The Oily nut used as candle) the arra or intoxicating peper which is used here as abundantly as at any place. there are great numbers of Gourds & of a variety of shapes & sizes; the sugar cane grows to a great size, & are equally produced in the rising grounds & vall’ys. In the higher grounds are also beds of sweet potatoes which are in great abundance of a vast size, many weighing 15 pounds & few left than 2 or 3, besides what we have mentioned, I am told there are many new plants & a variety of theese known to Botanists. The Quadrupeds as far as we know the same in number & kind as at Otaheite Hogs, dogs, & rats; adding fowls to these, we have also all their domestick animals we purchasd many bird of a beautiful cinimon colur, about the size of a gold finch; with along curv’d bill, but we saw none alive; we only saw large owl’s two large brown hawks or kites & wild ducks. but the Natives mention other birds, from which they get their red & yellow feathers, that are to be found in the mountains: of Fish we only saw Mackrel, common Mullets, a smal brownish rock fish, Cavalleys which they salt, & we found them very good, the shells were neither numerous, beautiful or uncommon:

[Page 43]
Sandwich Islands
Feby. 2d. 1778
We anchor’d of the SE end of the Island. the banks has regular Soundings & the bottom is good; to the Eastward of the road there is however fowl ground although this is directly to leeward, yet from the height of the hills the trade wind is obstructed in its course & takes a direction along shore; thus in the road the trade wind blows from the ESE which sends in a [ppopling?] Sea & to the Wt.ward the wind takes a NE direction from the same [cause?]; Nevertheless this is as good a road as that at Sta. Cruz in the Island of Teneriff, & equal to many roads that are deem’d sufficiently safe. The nearest part of Nee hee how which lies WSW 6 Leagues from Atoui & they distance of our two anchoring places was 11 Leagues in a WbS direction, the No. part of Nee hee how & that facing Atoui is high landing abruptly from the Sea, the rest of the Island, is low land, except a high Bluff on the So end, it has the appearance & is a barren Island, it however produces fine large yams in great abundance and a sweet root call’d Tee; Plantains are very scarce, & we saw no bread fruit we anchor’d of the Wt: end of the Island.
Ta: coona is a small high Island uninhabited; where the Natives go & sometimes catch sea birds, to the Wt.ward the natives say there is a small sandy Island almost covered with Water; were they go at certain times & catch fish, birds, & turtle. They call it Tummatta Papapa, it is pretty evident that there are no Islands to the Leeward of this that the Natives have any knowledge of, but it is not equally certain that they know of nomore to Windward; as we could not be positively sure whether some names they gave, & pointing to the Eastwd: on the other side of Attoui, were different districts of this Island.

[Page 44]
Sandwich Islands
Feb. 2d. 1778
or other Islands in that direction.
Oreetooa is a single high hummock of Land to the No, of Nee hee how, and joining to it by a reef & does not deserve being call’d a separate Island. The astronomical observations will more precisely determine the situations of these Islands, & what else may appertain to a more accurate Geographical knowledge of them.
Although these Islands abound only in the same productions as those to the south of the Line, yet their situation makes them of far greater consequence they are precisely in the Middle space between acquapulco in new spain, & the [Padsoni?] or Marian Isles, being somewhat more than 1000 Leagues from each; their situation therefore cou’d not be better for affording supplies to the trade, around or between new Spain & the Phillipines; It would be entering into two large a disquisition of the probable advantages they might be in facilitating any commerce that may in future be undertaken between the Western coasts of No. America, & the opposite continent of Asia particularly their use in case endeavours infinding a nearer & more practicable passage to Asia shou’d not succeed: but better conjectures may doubtless be made on this subject, when our voyage is finishd,. – I have already observ’d that these people in Colour resemble the new Zeelanders, that there is a great variety in their features, & no strong Characteristick mark; they have not the levity of the Otaheiteans, or the Gravity often seen amongst the friendly Islanders; yet they are

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Sandwich Islands
Feby: 2d. 1778
not so personable a people as either of these; their behaviour in general shew’d a sense of their inferiority, & of the advantages we had over them, notwithstanding some instances to the contrary; as there always will be found some insolent ill dispos’d people amongst a Multitude who will make themselves troublesome if their own Chiefs do not appear to keep them in order; & these did not appear, for they repeate’d the names of several to whom they prostrated themselves; We saw none of their diversions, except singing which they do in differant parts & tones very like, though inferior to the friendly Islanders.
Their dwellings instead of being scatter’d as the other Islands, are here connected into Villages; their houses of the resemblance of rather of Oblong cornstacks, than as I before mention’d haystacks, the sides are low & the roof joins them, & inclines to a ridge like our country Cottages, both the ridges are regularly framd, lathd & thatchd with long grass which is made in bundles, one end cut even & lashd to the lath work much after the manner of our Country People; these are of all sizes, from 40 feet long to 36 broad & 24 in height, to small dog houses, the entrances, are generally so small as to oblige one to creep in on all fours, & having no windows they are of course dark but when they want more light, they thrust aside the thatching & soon replace it; they have hay laid on the floor which is generally rais’d from the level of the ground, & on this there are placed matts, a few Gourds are generally their only furniture.
Their Canoes are very neat & of an excellent shape; the bottom pieces

[Page 46]
Sandwich Islands
Feby. 2d: 1778
are generally made of one tree which shews that they have large trees amongst them. this is hollow’d, & made tapering, to each end, on this is sew’d on each side a narrow plank or wash board, about 6 Inches in the Middle, & which meet at each extremity, but about a foot from the ends they are squeez’d togather & the tops lash’d with cords, which gives the ends of the Canoe a wedge like shape. the only difference between the head & stern is, that forward as much again of the wash boards are brought to join as [Abaft?]. they are of very different dimensions, one of 24 feet in length will be in breadth afoot & a half, they have short outriggers to their Canoes, the trunk is always painted of an excellent Glossy black & the washboards yellow, the double Canoes are two large single ones, lash’d by rafters to one another leaving a space between them equal to the breadth of the Canoe, the rafters are curv’d, lash’d in the sides of the Canoe; with the convex part up wards, on these are sometimes placed boards, on which they place their hogs &c – these double Canoes hoist asail of a triangular shape, the broadest aloft, & wich has a deep curve; that curve & the sides being longer in proportion to the base aloft, make the difference between their Sails & those of Tonga, some of their large single Canoes have also Sails.
Although we had no opportunity, of seeing the whole process of making e their Cloth, yet there can be little doubt of its being the same as at Otaheite since it is made from the same paper Mulbery plant, & their having similar instruments to beat it with; the pieces of Cloth are very narrow, but much thicker than what is manufactured at Otaheite; they have here some

[Page 47]
Sandwich Islands
Feby. 2d. 1778
thin Cloth, but it is full of holes, & not used as a dress; however inferior their Cloth may be in size & finness, it far surpasses any we have seen in the variety & beauty of its pattern as exhibited to our view. Tedious as it must be to stain all these various patterns by the hand as at Otaheite, yet it is more probable that this is done by hand than a pattern from which it its painted; & as on a close examination; it is to be perceiv’d not to be regular enough for a regular machine Besides the Cloth which does honour to the ingenuity of the Women, we must admire the ingenuity of the men, in their bowls, which they drink yava out of, in the fine polish of their spears, which are often barb’d & in their short wooden instruments much the shape & size of a dagger, with a string on one end to fasten round their wrists, & these two Weapons are all they have or we saw, besides the Sling. we have taken notice of the common Dress of their men & women, besides these they have ornamental ones, & some wore on particular Occasions; the women wear feather ruffs round their necks, made of red, Yellow & black feathers, separately, & variously combin’d, besides Bracelets made of thin plates of turtle shell strung together, the large teeth of Boars, & some of a fluted shape; also shell Necklaces. Neither sex wear Ear rings, as their Ears are not perforat’d; the singularity of wearing ornaments amongst the different people of the Islands we have visited. shew the absurdity of attributing from such trifling resemblances, nations being originally r the same for at the Friendly Isles they wear necklaces, but no ornament pendant from the Ear only stuck thr’ough two holes; at Otaheite they wear no Necklaces but hang beads to their Ears; At this place they have no holes in their Ears, but were Necklaces [indecipherable] many

[Page 48]
Sandwich Islands
Feby. 2d. 1778
yet there are better proof’s than can be often given that they are the same people. Their featherd Cloaks & Caps we supposed ornaments only on particular Occasions, they set a great value on & were unwilling to part with them; the Cap is a basket work cover’d with short red feathers, & streaks of yellow, black or Green intermix’d; it is made to fit close to the head, a small semicircular space left for the Ear, on the middle of the Cap is a protuberance of 3 Inches in height & breadth extending the whole length, the upper part forming a large curve & bends in the fore part, like a bill, this is often [covear’d?] with red feathers somewhat larger than the other parts, & gives the Cap a strong resemblance of the ancient helmets; it has a rich & magnificent look; the Crests & protuberant parts are differently shap’d in height & breadth.
The Cloak is made of net work, & feathers of various coulours are work’d into the mashes of the net; they are of different lengths & their shape is like most Cloak’s, wider considerably at the bottom than the top; they universally struck us as resembling the short spanish Cloaks one often see’s in print; the most valuable of these are made of red & yellow feathers, so dispos’d as to have a fine effect & a very splendid appearance, many are made of Cock’s & the feathers of Sea birds, but these are not so much valued.
There doubtless cannot be a subject more liable to error than in deducing the origin of people from certain resemblances, in their religious ceremonies, their their arts, & their manners; & the drawing conclusions, from similarity amongst the different Islands in these sea’s, would be very fallacious; for as they are nearby in the same state of Civilization, & as their Climates & Country have so much

[Page 49]
Sandwich Islands
Feby. 2d. 1778
resemblance, the effects of the former will be nearly equal in all, & the same wonts in the latter will produce like effects, from which a great similitude will arise in their arts & manners; & as to religious ceremonies, what with the difficulty of the subject & from the superstitious rights of uninform’d nations being built on a principle of fear of invisible beings, there will be often a great likeness in their ceremonies; although no solid inferences can be form’d from such conclusions; yet they may be brought in addition or at least not as contradicting an opinion p founded on better grounds.
The same language however hardly requires any other proof of those wh’o speak it being the same people & orriginating from the same Country; & that the language which is spoke at these Isles, at New Zealand, at Easter Island. & the Society & friendly Isles, is the same, is clear from the specimen of each Annex’d; not differing more than the provincial dialects of the same Nation; laying aside conjectures, from what Country these people originally came; It cannot but strike the immagination, the immense space which this Nation has spread; the extent of its limits exceed all Europe, & is nearly equal to Africa, Stretching in breadth from A’toui to New Zeeland. that is 70 degrres of Latitude or 4200 Miles; & in length from Easter Isl’d to the friendly Isles, 65. degrees of Longd:or 3115 Miles; at the Isl’s in the intermeadiate space are by their Affinity or sameness in Speach to be reckon’d as forming one people such are the Marquesa’s, Otaheite & the Society Isl’s; & 3 or 4 new discover’d Islands to the Southard of these; that there are more Islands, scatter'd in this space is certainly very probable, otherwise to account for the population of many

[Page 50]
Sandwich Islands
Feby. 2d. 1778
that are known will be a great difficulty.
The knowledge of this wide extensive nation, their Manners, their arts & of the different Islands they inhabit adds a lustre on our Nation, & gives it a decided advantage over all others, in her Naval skill & in the Spirit of their enterprizes; & which every good subject must rejoice to see, & hope, that no event will ever happen to abate or confine the influence of such a spirit.
Tides. At A’toui we Generally found a Current setting to the NWd: but cou’d observe no regular tide either by the Ship & the Shores. but at Nee hee how we found a regular tide setting SE, & NW., & running 6 hours each way, & so strong as to make the Ship, tend to the tide against a fresh breeze, we supposed the flood to come from the NW. –

[Page 51]
[Astronomical Observations not recorded]

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[Astronomical Observations not recorded]

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[Astronomical Observations not recorded]

[Page 54]
No.
One
Sandwich, Isles. – Ta hee
Easter, Isld: - Ko’ tahai
Marquesas. – Atta haie
Society, Isles. – Atta’ haei
Friendly, Isles. – Ta ha ei
New, Zeeland. – Ta hai

Two
Sandwich, Isles. – Rooa
Easter, Isld: - Rooa
Marquesas. – Ahoaa
Society, Isles. – E’rooa
Friendly, Isles. – Eooa
New, Zeeland. – Rooa.

Three
Sandwich, Isles. – Torao
Easter, Isld: - To rao
Marquesas. – Atoroo
Society, Isles. – Toroo
Friendly, Isles. – Toroo
New, Zeeland. – Toroo

Four
Sandwich, Isles. – Ha
Easter, Isld: - Haa
Marquesas. – Af’a
Society, Isles. – Ahea
Friendly, Isles. – Af’a
New, Zeeland. – Tofa

Five
Sandwich, Isles. – Reima
Easter, Isld: - Reima
Marquesas. – Aheema
Society, Isles. – Aonoo
Friendly, Isles. – Neema
New, Zeeland. – Reema

Six
Sandwich, Isles. – Onoo
Easter, Isld. – Hono
Marquesas. – A’ono
Society, Isles. – A’ono
Friendly, Isles. – O’noo
New, Zeeland. – Honnoo

Seven
Sandwich, Isles. – Hee doo
Easter, Isld. – Hiddoo
Marquesas. – Aweetoo
Society, Isles. – O’hei’too
Friendly, Isles. – Efeedoo
New, Zeeland. – Widdoo

Eight
Sandwich, Isles. – Waroo
Easter, Isld. – Naroo
Marquesas – Awahoo
Society, Isles. – Awaroo
Friendly, Isles. – Ewaroo
New, Zeeland. – Waroo

Nine
Sandwich, Isles. – Eeeva
Easter, Isld. – Heeva
Marquesas – Aheieia
Society, Isles. – Aeiha
Friendly, Isles. – E’eeva
New, Zeeland. – Heeva

Ten
Sandwich, Isles. – Asmee
Easter, Isld. – Amakooroo
Marquesas – Weemanoo
Society, Isles. – Ahooroo
Friendly, Isles. – Honga fooroo
New, Zeeland. – Anga horroo

A Canoe
Sandwich, Isles. – E’vaa
Easter, Isld. – Vagga
Marquesas – E’vaa
Society, Isles. – E’vaa
Friendly, Isles. – Wackka
New, Zeeland. – Te’wagga

A House
Sandwich, Isles. – Harree
Easter, Isld. – Te’harree
Marquesas – Te’wharree
Society, Isles. – Te’wharree
Friendly, Isles. – A’farree
New, Zeeland. – Te’farree

A Fish
Sandwich, Isles. – Aua
Easter, Isld. – Eeka
Marquesas – Eeiya
Society, Isles. – Eea
Friendly, Isles. – Eeka
New, Zeeland. – Eeka

A Dog
Sandwich, Isles. – E’eeo
Easter, Isld. – there are none
Marquesas – there are none
Society, Isles. – Ooree
Friendly, Isles. – Gooree
New, Zeeland. – Gooree

A Hatchet
Sandwich, Isles. – Toee
Easter, Isld. –
Marquesas – Toe
Society, Isles. – To’ee
Friendly, Isles. – To’ghee
New, Zeeland. – To’ghee

Beard
Sandwich, Isles. – Oo mee, oomee
Easter, Isld. – Oo mee
Marquesas – Oomee
Society, Isles. – Oomee
Friendly, Isles. – Oomee. Koomee.
New, Zeeland. – Goomee

Belly
Sandwich, Isles. – O’boo
Easter, Isld. – Ka oo poo
Marquesas – O’poo
Society, Isles. – O’boo
Friendly, Isles. – Fa too
New, Zeeland – Ko’poo

Drink
Sandwich, Isles. – A’ee noo
Easter, Isld. – Hy’noo
Marquesas – A’eenoo
Society, Isles. – A’eenoo
Friendly, Isles. – Ee’noo
New, Zeeland – Ai noo

Eat
Sandwich, Isles. – Ai
Easter, Isld. – Magho
Marquesas – Maa
Society, Isles. – Ai
Friendly, Isles. – Ky
New, Zeeland – E’kai

Ears
Sandwich, Isles. – Pa’pa’how
Easter, Isld. –
Marquesas – Boo a eena
Society, Isles. – Ta’reea
Friendly, Isles. – Talinga
New, Zeeland – Taringa

Eyes
Sandwich, Isles. – Matta
Easter, Isld. – Matta
Marquesas – Matta
Society, Isles. – Matta
Friendly, Isles. – Matta
New, Zeeland – Matta

Foot
Sandwich, Isles. – Ka’pooi
Easter, Isld. – A’wai
Marquesas – A’wai
Society, Isles. – A’wai
Friendly, Isles. – E’wai
New, Zeeland – Wai wai

Hair
Sandwich, Isles. – Ra’ooroo
Easter, Isld. – Tarreekan
Marquesas – Oo who
Society, Isles. – A’rou roo
Friendly, Isles. – La’hooloo
New, Zeeland – Hoo loo

Land
Sandwich, Isles. – Henooa
Easter, Isld. – Hennooa
Marquesas – Whennooa
Society, Isles. – Whennooa
Friendly, Isles. – H’enua
New, Zeeland – When’nooa

Little
Sandwich, Isles. – Oohoo, or Eetee
Easter, Isld. – Eetee
Marquesas – Ee’tee
Society, Isles. – Ee’tee
Friendly, Isles. – Ee kee, or gee (soft)
New, Zeeland – Eetee

Great
Sandwich, isles. – Nu’ee
Easter, Isld. – Noo ee
Marquesas – Ara hai dehy & nooee
Society, Isles. – Lahai
Friendly, Isles. – Lahai
New, Zeeland – Arabai, or Nooee

[Page 55]
Vocabulary of different islands in the South Seas. Continued.

Hair
Sandwich. Isles – Tana’ta
Easter. Isles. – Papa
Marquesas. – Tute
Society Isles. – Tata
Friendly Isles. – Tongata
New Zeeland. – Tongata

Mouth
Sandwich. Isles – Ava
Easter. Isles. –
Marquesas. – Eeva’fa
Society Isles. – Ava
Friendly Isles. –
New Zeeland. –

Nose
Sandwich. Isles. – Eehee
Easter. Isles. –
Marquesas. – Ee’hea
Society Isles. – E’hee
Friendly Isles. – Ee’hee
New Zeeland. – E’heoo

Sea
Sandwich. Isles. – Tai
Easter. Isles. –
Marquesas. –
Society Isles. – Tai
Friendly Isles. – Tai
New Zeeland. – Moanno

Water
Sandwich. Isles. – Evy
Easter. Isles. – Evy
Marquesas. – Evy
Society Isles. – Evy
Friendly Isles. – Evy
New Zeeland. – Evy

Woman
Sandwich. Isles. – Wa’heene
Easter. Isles. –
Marquesas. – Vehunee
Society Isles. – Waihune
Friendly Isles. – Ve’faine
New Zeeland. – Wahoine

Sun
Sandwich. Isles. – Er’rah
Easter. Isles. – Eraei
Marquesas. – Eree
Society Isles. – Eva, or Mahanna
Friendly Isles. – A’la
New Zeeland. – Ee’ra

Moon
Sandwich. Isles. – Maheina
Easter. Isles. – Maramarama
Marquesas. – Marama
Society Isles. – Marama
Friendly Isles. – Maheina
New Zeeland. – Marama

Friend
Sandwich. Isles. – Hoa
Easter. Isles. –
Marquesas –
Society Isles. – Hoa
Friendly Isles. – Whoa
New Zeeland. – Ehoa

Yams
Sandwich. Isles. – Oo whee
Easter. Isles. – Oo’hee
Marquesas – there are none
Society Isles. – E oo hee
Friendly Isles. – Oo’fee
New Zeeland. – there are none

Sugar Cane
Sandwich. Isles. – To
Easter. Isles. – To
Marquesas – To
Society Isles. – To
Friendly Isles. – To
New Zeeland. – (none)

Eddy root
Sandwich. Isles. – Tarro
Easter. Isles. – Tarro
Marquesas –
Society Isles. – Tarro
Friendly Isles. – Tarro
New Zeeland. – (none)

Sweet Potatoe
Sandwich. Isles. – Oo’warro
Easter. Isles. – Goo, morra
Marquesas –
Society Isles. – Oo marra
Friendly Isles. – Oo feetee (sweet yam)
New Zeeland. – (none)

Breadfruit
Sandwich. Isles. – Oo roo
Easter. Isles. – (there are none)
Marquesas – Mai, Ooroo
Society Isles. – Ooroo
Friendly Isles. – Meuhee
New Zeeland. – (none)

Plantains
Sandwich. Isles. – Mai ua
Easter. Isles. – Maia, & Foogee
Marquesas – Maia
Society Isles. – Maia
Friendly Isles. – Foodgee
New Zeeland. – (none)

Cocoa Nuts
Sandwich. Isles. – Neeoo
Easter. Isles. – (none)
Marquesas – Neeoo
Society Isles. – Arree, or Nee oo
Friendly Isles. – Nee oo
New Zeeland. – (none)

Hog
Sandwich. Isles. – Booa
Easter. Isles. – (none)
Marquesas – Booa
Society Isles. – Booa
Friendly Isles. – Booaka
New Zeeland. – (none)

What is that
Sandwich. Isles. – E’hanee
Easter. Isles. –
Marquesas –
Society Isles. – E’hane or E’ha terra
Friendly Isles. – Koi ha eea
New Zeeland. -

Howmany
Sandwich. Isles. – E’heea
Easter. Isles. –
Marquesas –
Society Isles. – E’heea
Friendly Isles. – A’faia
New Zeeland. –

I
Sandwich. Isles. – Ow
Easter. Isles. –
Marquesas – Wou
Society Isles. – Wou
Friendly Isles. – Ow
New Zeeland. –

You
Sandwich. Isles. – Outow
Easter. Isles. –
Marquesas –
Society Isles. – O’ee
Friendly Isles. – Koe
New Zeeland. –

Come here
Sandwich. Isles. – Hiddimey
Easter. Isles. –
Marquesas –
Society Isles. – Arramy
Friendly Isles. – How’enne
New Zeeland. –

Tomorrow
Sandwich. Isles. – A’bobo
Easter. Isles. –
Marquesas –
Society Isles. – A’bobo
Friendly Isles. – Abungee Cungee
New Zeeland. –

[Page 56]
No entries

[Page 57]
Weather &c. Tuesday Feby 3d. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod: breezes & fair Wr: Discovery joind us
3 Tk:d Ship
4 Light breezes, Extrs: of One hour from N.20E to S.44E and once [indecipherable] N77E off shore about 4 Leagues
7 In 1st. reef Top sails once how a N°: 68E. & the high land No of once how S42E.
9 Mod: & Cloudy
11 Light Airs & fair Wr.
[AM]
2 Fresh breezes & fine Wr:
5 Cloudy
8 Fresh breezes & fair Wr.
9 Unbent the Cables & took [indecipherable] Service
10 Carptrs: repairg. the Pinnace & sail makers mendg: Midl. Staysail
12 Squally with small rain
Discovery in Company.

[Page 58]
Weather &c. Wednesday Feby 4th 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & fine Wr.
2 Mod: & Cloudy
8 Do Wr:
11 Many porpoises about the Ship
[AM]
2 Squally with small rain
4 Mod: & fair
6 Unbent the Mizn: T stay sail to repair it.
8 Fresh breezes & fair Wr:
9 Cleand below people empd: pickg. Oakum & workg. up Junk
11 Carptrs: as yesterday
12 Mod. breezes & fair Wr.
Discovery in Compy:

[Page 59]
Weather &c. Thursday Feby 5th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fres breezes & fair Wr.
2 Bent the Mizn: T.M. stay sail
4 Do. Wr:
8 Do. Wr:
12 Do. Wr.
[AM]
4 Mod: & Cloudy
8 Do. Wr. unbent the Top sails & Courses & bent the new suit & reev’d the foul. Wr. tacks & [shails?], Sailmaker the Jibb Carptrs. the Boats.
12 Fr Wr.
Discovery in Company

[Page 60]
Weather &c. Friday Feby. 6th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. & fair
3 Fresh Breezes
6 Hazey Wr:
11 Mod: & Cloudy
12 Little Wind
[AM]
4 Mod: Breezes
6 Rain
8 fair Wr:
9 Empd: working up Junk
12 Light breezes inclinable to Calm
Discovery in Compy

[Page 61]
Weather &c. Saturday Feby 7th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light airs & Calm’s
4 Little winds & Cloudy
5 Wore Ship & made sail
12 fair Wr:
[AM]
3 Squally
8 Fresh Breezes & fair Wr:
9 Cleand & smoakd below
10 People emp’d as yesterday
11 Fresh Breezes & fair
12 Do. Wr.
Discovery in Compy:

[Page 62]
Weather &c. Sunday Feby 8th: 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & fair Wr:
2 A Great head sea; Unbent the M top Gt. sail to repair
4 Do. Wr.
12 Do. Wr:
[AM]
7 Fresh breezes & fair lost a log & two Lines, punish’d Job. Clay with 6 Lashes for Neglect of duty
10 Unbent the Sprits Sail to repair
11 Mod. & fair
12 Discovery in Compy.

[Page 63]
Weather &c. Monday Feby 9th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod; & Cloudy, bent the M.T. Gallt. sail
3 Saw several flying fish, Sheerwaters & a Grampus
5 Gloomy Wr. with Showers
8 Mod; & Cloudy
11 Small rain
12 Cloudy
[AM]
2 Drisling rain
8 light Airs
9 Empd: picking Oakum & makg. points & nippers, Carptrs. about the Boats, & Sailmakers the Sails
12 Light airs & fine Wr:
Discovery in Compy:

[Page 64]
Weather &c: Tuesday. Feby: 10th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Little Wind & fine Wr:
4 Do: Wr:
8 Cloudy.
9 Small rain
12 Hazey,
[AM]
4 Do: Wr:
6 Squally with rain
8 Fresh breezes & Cloudy,
9 People empd: making platts & nippers
11 Sailmaker’s repairing the Sails
12 Cloudy,
Discovery in Compy:

[Page 65]
Weather &c. Wednesday Feby: 11th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & Cloudy.
2 Saw a number of small black birds, like, Mother, Caryes Chickens
4 Do. Wr:
8 Bore down to the Discovery,
12 Mod: Breezes & Cloudy,
[AM]
4 Do, Wr:
5 Squally
7 Fresh breezes & Cloudy,
8 Fair Wr:
9 People Empd: as yesterday
10 Saw a Gull
12 Fresh breezes & Cloudy,
Discovery in Company,

[Page 66]
Weather &c. Thursday Feby. 12th 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & Cloudy,
6 Bore down to the Discovery
8 Do. Wr:
12 Do: Wr:
[AM]
2 Squally with showers of small rain,
4 Fresh breezes & Cloudy.
6 Squally with small rain
8 Fresh breezes & fair
9 Tk:d Ship
10 Empd; picking Oakum & working up Junk, Carptrs: repg: the Pinnace & Sailmakers about the Sails Recv’d new. M.T.M. stay S. Halliards
12 Fresh Breezes
Discovery Compy.

[Page 67]
Weather &c. Friday Feby 13th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & Cloudy.
2 Less Wind
4 Mod: & Cloudy
6 Small rain
7 Cloudy
8 Do, Wr:
12 Do: Wr:
[AM]
6 The Sea gone down
8 Out 1st: reef Topsails
9 People Empd: as yesterday
10 A Swell from the NE.
12 Light breezes & Cloudy,
Discovery in Compy

[Page 68]
Weather &c. Saturday Feby 14th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & Cloudy, with a Swell from the No.
4 Do, Wr:
9 Calm.
[AM]
3 Light airs
6 Taken aback
7 Tk:d Ship
9 Light breezes & Cloudy. Back’d the Mizon TM staysail for the Discy
11 Empd. as yesterday. Carpts. Caulkg: the after part of the 2. Deck at 10 furl’d the Mizn. Topsail
Light Breezes & fine Wr.
Discovery in Compy:

[Page 69]
Weather &c. Sunday. Feby. 15th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & fine Wr;
3 Clean’d below
4 Do. Wr:
10 Cloudy,
[AM]
2 Little Wind & small rain
4 Fresh Gales with showrs: & head Sea. I 2d. reef Mizn: topsail
7 Slings of the M. Yard ganway
8 Fresh Breezes & fair
10 Fix’d new Slings for the Main Yard
12 Fresh Breezes & Cloudy

[Page 70]
Weather &c. Monday Feby. 16. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & Cloudy Wr.
4 Do. Wr. Saw some Sheerwaters
6 Do. Wr:
9 Carried away the F. top sail & Jib Ties sliced them again
12 Mod: & Cloudy.
[AM]
5 Out 2d: reef Mizn: top sail found one of the Fore Shrouds, gone just above the seizing, of the puttock Staff, hook’d the fore Run: & Cast the Shroud off & spliced it.
10 Empd: pickn. Oakum & making Nippers. Carptrs: under the Gang ways Sail makers as before
Mod: & Cloudy
Discovery in Compy.

[Page 71]
Weather &c. Tuesday Feby. 17th: 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & Cloudy Wr.
4 Do, Wr:
8 Do, Wr:
11 ½ past back’d the Mizon top Sail for the Discovery filld Do.
[AM]
4 Do. Wr:
7 Out all reefs
9 Empd. as yesterday
12 Do. Wr.
Discovery in Compy:

[Page 72]
Weather &c. Wednesday 18th, 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & Cloudy
5 Fine Wr:
6 Shortned Sail
12 Fine Clear Wr:
[AM]
2 Cloudy.
6 Swell from the NW.
9 Empd: making nippers & pickg. Oakum Serv’d spruce beer to the People
12 Do Wr.
Discovery in Compy.

[Page 73]
Weather &c. Thursday 19th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod: breezes & Cloudy.
2 Cloudy with showrs: of small rain & as well from the NW.
4 Fair Wr:
5 Cloudy.
8 Fresh breezes & Cloudy.
12 Do: Wr:
[AM]
3 Mod Breezes
4 Do. Wr.
6 Cloudy.
7 Mod. breezes & fair Wr:
9 Empd: as Yesterday. Carpt. Caulking,
11 Serv’d fresh Pork S. Compy
12 pleasant Wr:
Discovery in Compy:

[Page 74]
Weather &c: Friday Feby 20th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & fine Wr:
4 Cloudy.
5 Bent the Sprit sail
6 Shortend Sail to single reef
7 Top sails
8 Do. Wr:
12 Fresh breezes & fine Wr:
[AM]
5 Mod. & Cloudy
7 Out 1st. reef F Topsail
8 fair Wr:
9 Out 1st. reef F Top sail
10 Greas’d the Top mast
11 Empd: pickg. Oakum Carptrs. Caulkg.
12 fair & pleasant Wr:
Discovery in Company.

[Page 75]
Weather &c. Saturday Feby 21. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & fine Wr.
4 Do: Wr:
8 Fresh breezes & fine Wr.
12 Do. Wr:
[AM]
4 Do. Wr:
9 Cleaned below, Carptrs: Caulking
10 Saw some Sheerwaters & other Birds,
12 Mod: breezes & fair
Discovery in Compy.

[Page 76]
Weather &c: Sunday Feby 22d. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & fine Wr:
2 Cloudy.
6 In 1st: Reefs Top sails
8 Fresh breezes & fair Wr:
[AM]
4 Do: Wr:
10 Hazey
12 Fine pleasant Wr:
Discovery in Compy

[Page 77]
Weather &c. Monday. Feby: 23d: 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & fine Wr:
5 Fresh brezes & fair
9 Heavy Dew
[AM]
4 Do. Wr:
6 Hazey:
7 Out 1st reef Topsails
9 Saw a number of Wales or Grampuses
11 Saw a Gull
12 Fresh breezes & Cloudy.
Discovery in Compy:

[Page 78]
Weather &c. Tuesday Feby 24th, 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod & thick hazey Wr:
2 Foggy saw a Gull
5 In 1st. reef Top sails & back’d Miz Top sail for Discovery
7 ½ past 7. fill’d Mizn: Top sail
8 Hazey,
12 Small rain
[AM]
2 Clear Wr:
4 Cloudy,
6 Swell from the NW.
7 Out all reefs
9 Empd; picking Oakum & workg. up Junk, Serv’d fresh pork Ships Compy.
12 Discovery in Compy

[Page 79]
Weather &c. Wednesday Feby. 25 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod: Breezes & foggy,
2 A swell from the WNW.
3 Hazey Wr:
5 in 1st. reef Top sails
6 Fresh breezes & hazey with Small rain at times
12 thick Misty Wr:
[AM]
4 Do: Wr
7 pass’d a large log of wood with branches on it,
9 Hazey Empd. picking Oakum & drawing Yarns. serv’d fresh Pork Ships Compy
12 Fresh Breezes & Cloudy
12 Discovery in Compy:

[[Page 80]
Weather &c. Thursday Feby: 26th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod: breezes & Cloudy. Wr:
6 Hazey
10 Fresh breezes & fair Wr:
[AM]
2 Very strong Northern Lights from NNW. to NE,
6 Cloudy
10 Empd: picking Oakum
12 fresh Breezes & Cloudy
Discovery in Compy:

[Page 81]
Weather &c. Friday Feby. 27. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & fair Wr:
2 Several Birds about the Ship
3 Saw a log of Wood
4 Cloudy
7 Squally
8 Fresh breezes & Cloudy
[AM]
4 More Moderate
8 Fresh breezes & Cloudy
9 Saw a log of wood & a few small pettrells, Dark Cloudy Wr.
11 Do. Wr.
12 Cloudy Wr:
Discovery in Compy.

[Page 82]
Weather &c. Saturday Feby 20th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. & Cloudy
3 Saw a Gull.
5 Light breezes & Cloudy
8 Do. Wr:
12 Mod. breezes & Cloudy.
[AM]
4 Do. Wr:
9 Cleand below
12 Cloudy A swell from the Eastwd:
Discovery in Compy

[Page 83]
Weather &c. Sunday March 1th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod: breezes & Cloudy.
6 Hazey Wr:
8 Light breezes & hazey
12 Cloudy,
[AM]
4 Do, Wr:
8 fair Wr:
9 Out reefs, sent aboat onboard the Discovery.
12 Cloudy
Discovery in Compy.

[Page 84]
Weather &c. Monday March 2d: 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light Airs & Cloudy, inclinable to Calm.
3 Sounded no Ground at 16 faths
4 Fine Wr:
6 In 1st. reef Top sails
12 Light Airs
[AM]
3 Little Wind
9 Bore Down to the Discovery
10 Light Airs A swell from the Wrd.
12 Light breezes & fair.
[Comments in side column]
AM. part of the Sea was cover’d with a slimy substance, & some small sea insects or Animals were Swimming about the Ship, one Globular like a little ball, and another smaller that had a white silvery appearance, & those were very numerous, some were taken up & put into a tumbler along with salt water, in which they appear’d like a scale or bit of silver, & in shape & size much like a small wood louse, when these animals began to swim about which they did with equal ease on the Belly, back or sides, they emitt’d the brightest colours of the, most precious according to their possition with the light; some times they appeard quite [pelucid?], at other times asuming various hues, from a pale saffron to a deep Violet coulour, which were frequently mix’d with a ruby & glow’d with a strength sufficient to illuminate the Vessell & water colour was most vivid, when the [indecipherable] was held up in a strong light, & [indecipherable] vanish’d on its subsiding to the bottom the animals then having a brown hue -

[Page 85]
Weather &c. Tuesdy: March 3d, 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & fine Wr:
3 Hazey.
4 Cloudy
6 Bore down to the Discovery.
8 Thick Misty Wr:
10 Taken A back,
[AM]
1 Mod. breezes & a thick Mist,
8 Cloudy.
10 Carpenters Caulking under the half Deck, Saw a Gull,
12 Mod. & Cloudy.
Discovery in Compy:

[Page 86]
Weather &c. Wedy: March 4th: 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod: breezes & Cloudy Wr:
4 Do: Wr:
5 Fresh Breezes.
12 Do. Wr:
[AM]
6 Hazey Wr:
10 Carptrs: empd: Caulking under the half deck.
12 Fresh Gales & Hazey
Discovery in Compy:

[Page 87]
Weather &c. Thursday March 5. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & fair Wr:
4 Do: Wr:
[AM]
1 Hazey.
4 Mod. Breezes.
6 Little. Wind.
8 Calm & Hazey.
9 Light Airs
10 Saw a Seal
11 Light Airs & thick hazey Wr: Soundded no Ground at 160 faths;
Discovery in Compy

[Page 88]
Weather &c. Friday March 6th: 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & thick foggy Wr.
2 Saw a Gull.
4 Hazey.
8 Do. Wr:
[AM]
3 Bore down to the Discovery.
4 Cloudy.
6 Mod; & Cloudy. Bore away & made Sail
8 Out reefs.
9 Pass’d the stump of a Tree
10 saw several Wales & Gulls
12 Cloudy, & a thick Haze in the NE a NW swell
Discovery in Compy.

[Page 89]
Weather &c. Saturday March 7th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & hazey Wr, a NW swell
2 Saw a Seal & some sea weed, bent the Bow or Cables, & [unsterv’d?] the Anchors, Sounded no Ground 160 faths.
6 Fair Wr: in 1st. reefs Top sails
7 Sounded no Ground, 160 faths.
12 Sounded no Ground at 160 faths.
[AM]
1 Do. Wr. saw several Whales
2 Taken Aback,
4 Mod. & fair Sounded no Ground 90. fathm. at 6 Outreefs Light breezes & Cloudy, at S light winds & Variable taken Aback, Sounded 90. fatm: fine black Sand, Unbent the M.T. Gallt, sail bent another, Soundd; 73 fathm.
10 Do. Bottom.
11 Several flocks of birds about.
12 At noon Light Airs & fair Wr.
[Comments in side column]
½ past 4 Saw the Land bearing NEbE.
At. 6 Extms: of the Land from NNE ½ E to S.EbE ½ E.
At Noon No. point of the Land NNE ¼ E, & So. point SE ¾ E of shore 5 or 6 Leagues

[Page 90]
Observations & Remarks. Saturday March 7th. 1778.
This part of the Continent of America has not as far as whe know, ever before been seen, for there is no certain accounts of any Navigators being so high as 44°. of Latitude excepting Sr. Francis Drake. & [Visraino?] ; both these Navigators landed on the Continent in 38° degrees of Lattitude, both were stop’d from proceeding farther to the North than 44, from the rigour of the Climate, the former so expressly although in june the latter had constant No.erly Winds, which partly stopt his proceedings; the Weather they met with we consider the more Extraordinary, as we in a much earlier season, have it milder then it is on the Eastern Coast of the Continent, not having as yet experienced any bad or Cold Weather, nay not even a rough or blowing day since we left the Islands in 22 No. the Thermometer will also show the uncommon mildness of the weather; the whole passage has not only been temperate, but what deserves Notice, almost free from any indications, of aproaching so great a Continent & our logs, are void of any Occurences out of the common road, the land is of a moderate height, & free from snow. agreably diversified with hills & Valleys, Extending along way back; their were no strong marks except a high flat hill bearing at noon ENE, the Northern point in sight. making like a point which we place in Lat: 44° 55’.Longitude 236.50 East.

[Page 91]
Weather &c. Sunday, March 8th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
{PM]
1 Calm & fair Wr;
3 Light Airs
4 Calm & fair Exts. Of the land from NNE, to SE ½ S of shores 4 or 5 Leagues.
7 Light airs & Cloudy. in 1st reefs top sails, Tkd Ship
10 Shortned Sail, expectg: to sail along the Coast, with this fair SW. wind. Mod: & fair Wr.
[AM]
2 Tk.d Ship
3 Fresh breezes & Cloudy.
4 Squally with rain
6 In 2d. reef of Mizn: top Sail
7 Exts: of the land NEbN to ESE
8 Wore Ship & made Sail
9 Fresh Gales & Cloudy. Extrs: of the land. from NbE. ¾ E to So bE ½ E
11 Tk.d Ship.
12 Do, Wr.
[Notes in side column]
the Table Hill NEbE ¾ E the So. part in sight SE ½ E & the No. part NNE of Shore about 6 Leagues

[Page 92]
Weather &c. Monday March 9th. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh Gales & Cloudy recv’d a new Jib stay; strong Gales in 2d. reef T Sails the Wr. F Topsl:[indecipherable] gave way [splered?] it.
4 Fresh Gales & fair Wr.
7 Squally with hard Showrs: of hail & sleet; split Midl: stay sail
9 Fresh breezes & fair Wr.
10 Little wind & a NNW. Swell
12 Mod. & fair
[AM]
4 Squally with Hail & Sleet
8 Very unsetted Wr:
10 recv’d new T. Topsail Braces & M. Top bowlines, out 2d reef M. topsail, unbent the Mid. stay sail & bent another, wore Ship little Wind & Cloudy. with Hail. a swell from the W. out sight Land
Discovery Compy.
[Notes in side column]
Our long continuence of milde Wr. seems to be leaving us, the Wind appeg. fixd to the Westwd: & blowing strong with wich we dare not come too near the Shore, So most Land in sight EbS. the Extrs: from NE ½ N. to SSE, & the nearest point of Land EbS 7, or 8 Leagues. at 5, tack’d but the wind shifting stood again to the SW. at 6, a great swell from the Westward

[Page 93]
Weather &c. Tuesday March 10th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light Winds, with hail & a NW Swell
2 out 2d. reef Mizn. Top sail
4 Fair Wr.
6 Very unsetted Wr: & Squally,
7 Tk’d. Ship
8 Mod: & Cloudy
10 Squally with sleet, I 2d. reef Miz. T. Sail
[AM]
4 Tk;d Ship
7 Found one of the Fore puttock Shrouds gone fix’d a new one. Mod, & Cloudy
10 Out 2d: reef F. Top sail hazey with Sleet, saw two ducks. & a bed of Sea Weed
12 Mod: & Cloudy. with a great Swell from the NW.
Discovery in Compy

[Page 94]
Weather &: Wednesday March 11th 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod: breezes with a Swell pass’d a Log of Wood.
4 Do: Wr: punish’d Peter Mason with 6 lashes for disobedience
6 Fresh breezes with showers of Sleet
7 Sounded 160 fath. no Ground ½ past Tkd.
8 Cloudy with sleet.
12 Squally with hail & Sleet, TKd: Ship
[AM]
2 Squals of hail
4 Mod: & Cloudy.
5 Hail & Sleet. try’d Soundgs: no Ground 40 faths:
7 Tk:d Sounded Ground at 55 fat. Muddy of Shore 7. Or 8. Miles, fresh Gales & Cloudy
10 Squally. with hail & Sleet. punish’d Job. Clay with 6 lashes for Neglect
12 Do, Wr.
Discovery in Compy:
[Notes in side column]
Extms: of the Land from Neb[indecipherable] to East ½ So.
Extm: of the Land from Neb[indecipherable] to S.e ½ E.
Extm. of the Land, N 1/3 E to SEbE
No.ermost point No. 5 or 6 Leagues So.ermost point SbE about 10 Leags at 8 Extms. from NbE, to So SE. Lon: by TK. At 9°:.07’56" = 235°:.48’S Noermost. Point of Land in sight NNE. & Soermost ESE off [indecipherable] about 7 Leagues.

[Page 95]
Observations Remarks &c. on Wednesday March 11th. 1778.
When we tack’d at 6am we were within two or 3 Leagues of the Shore the No. & So. extremities of the Land in sight making like points or Capes, the Northern was what made the Southern, the first noon after we made the Land; each of these appear’d to be about 6 or 7 Leagues distant. one bearing No. & the other, SSE; the North point, we place in Latitude 44.06 No. Longitude 235°,, 54’ East. the South Cape in Latitude 43°,, 30’ No.. we had 55 fathom water Muddy Bottom, At 9",, S’ Lon by TK. 235° 48’. 52" E the North point then bore N ¾ E, & the So: cape, SSE ½ E, each 7 Leagues distance and the nearest Shore 4 Leagues. In reducing all the Lunar observations taken between the 19th of Feby & 9th. of March, to the time of Observations on the Ninth & comparing the result with the Longitude given by Time Keepers; we find the Lunar Observations give a less Longitude by 14" ½ . we suppose the Time Keeper to have that Error, & in setting the situation of place on the Coast allow for it.
At noon when we were nearest the Shore, that next the Sea was of a Moderate height & Clippy; & many white patches, which some supposed Sand, & others Chalk. In standing off we saw the Land farther back well Wooded & rising into gentle hills; many of the tops of which seem’d cover’d with Snow, that seem’d lately to have fallen; the South Cape is made remarkable by rising perpendicular from the Sea, & higher than the land of each side, we saw no appearance of Harbours; & the Capt’n: was I suppose apprehensive of going too near the Shore, as there was a heavy NW swell roll’d upon it. Allowing for the Variation the Coast hearabout runs nearly No: & So:.

[Page 96]
Weather &c. Thursday. March
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & squally with showers of snow & Hail
4 Mod. & fair
10 Squalls of Snow & Hail ½ past taken aback
12 Squally with unsetled Wr:
[AM]
1 Fresh Gales & hard squals Snow & hail, broke the M.T. Stay sail &
split the Sail, in 2d. reef Topsails handed Mizen Topsail
4 Fresh Gales & Squally wth. Hail & Snow.
7 Strong Gales & heavy squalls with hail & Snow.
9 Got down TG Yards & close reef’d the Topsails Saw a Water Spout
10 Set the Miz: T sail unbent the Main T.Mt. stay sail sheets & reev’d new Sheets
12 Heavy squalls with Showers of & Snow, handed Mizn: T. sail
Discovery Compy:
[Notes in side column]
PM at ½ past 3 Lon. By TK.
the No. point set at Noon NbEt ½ E the S point SE.
At 6 the No. point NbE ½ E, South Cape Set ½ S. the Southermost land in sight SSE ½ E. 10 or 12. Leagues we think it probable that the Soermost point which the computed distance will place in Lat.43..10. Long 235..40E may be Cape Blanco de St. Sebastion so call’d by [Mr?] D’Aguilar in Jany. 1603; & Geographic place in 44 ½ a large opening or or river of which however we saw [nothing?] of.
½ past 6 saw the Land, the Bluff [indecipherable] bearing ENE ¼ E & the Soermost Land in sight Se ½ E, dist. 10 or 12 Leagues A great swell from the NW

[Page 97]
Weather &c: Friday March 13th 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Strong Gales with hard Snow & Sleet.
3 Hail & Sleet
4 Strong Gales & Squally Wr:
5 A Great Sea from the NW.
8 Fresh Gales & heavy Squals Snow & Sleet
9 Clear Wr:
10 Squally with Snow
11 More Mod. Set the Miz. T. Sail
12 Fresh Gales & squally with hail
[AM]
2 More settled Wr:
4 Fresh Gales & Cloudy
6 Sea gone down
8 Fresh Breezes & Cloudy Wore Ship
9 Out 3d. reef & Made Sail
11 Light Breezes, out all reefs Saw a Seal
12 Fresh Breezes & Cloudy
Discovery in Compy.

[Page 98]
Weather &c. Saturday March 14 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & Cloudy
4 Do. Wr:
6 Light breezes & Cloudy In. 1st. reef
7 Wore Ship
8 Light Airs & small rain
9 Tkd. Ship
10 Mod breezes & Cloudy
11 Squally with rain
12 Fresh Breezes, & Squally
[AM]
3 Heavy Squals with rain in 2d. reef T. sails
4 Squally with rain
6 Do. with hail & Sleet.
8 Hard squalls with rain
9 Close reef’d. Fore & M.T. sails
10 Tkd. Ship
11 Handed Miz. Top sail
12 Fresh Gales & Squally

[Page 99]
Weather &c. Sunday Mar. 15 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh Gales with heavy Squalls & Snow & hail, a heavy sea from NW.
4 Strong Gales & Squally
8 Do. Wr:
12 Do. Wr:
[AM]
2 Heavy Squals with Sleet
4 Do, Wr:
8 Do. Wr:
10 Strong Gales & hazey
12 Do. Wr: Wore Ship

[Page 100]
Weather &c. Monday March 16 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. Gales & Cloudy Wr:
4 Squally with small rain
5 Reev’d new F.T. Mt: stay sail halliards
7 Fresh Breezes & hazey
10 Mod. & Hazey set the Mizn: T. sail
12 Do. Wr:
[AM]
4 Mod. & Cloudy
8 Little wind & Cloudy
12 Light Breezes & fair up T Gt. yards
Discovery in Compy.

[Page 101]
Weather &c. Tuesday Marh: 17 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod: & fair Wr:
4 Do. & Hazey
6 In 1st reef Top sails
8 Fresh Breezes & fair
12 Mod. Breezes & Cloudy
[AM]
2 Drisling rain
4 Mod & Cloudy
8 Squally with small rain
12 Fresh breezes & hazey Wr:
Discovery in Compy.

[Page 102]
Weather &c. Wednesday Mar. 18 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh briezes & hazey with Showers of small rain
4 Do. Wr:
6 Mod. & fair
7 Wore Ship
8 Do. Wr:
12 Do. Wr. TKd. Ship
[AM]
4 Do. Wr. & small rain
6 Out 1st. reef T. sails
7 hard rain
8 Fresh Breezes & hazey & Small rain
12 Fresh breezes & fair TKd. Ship
Discovery in Compy.

[Page 103]
Weather &c. Thursday Mar. 19th. 1778
[PM]
1 Mod: & Cloudy Wr:
4 Do. Wr.
8 Light breezes & fair
11 Far’r Wr.
[AM]
7 Light airs & Cloudy
8 Light breezes & fair
9 Back’d the main T, sail hoisted the Golly Boat out & sent her on board the Discovery. ½ past 10 she return’d, hoist’d her in, fill’d the Main T sail
Light breezes & fair

[Page 104]
Weather &c. Friday March 20th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & fine Wr:
4 Do. Wr.
8 Do. Wr,
12 Light Airs & fair
[AM]
3 Calm & Cloudy
4 Light Airs
6 A Number of Wales & porpoises about Ship
7 ½ past TKd. Ship
8 Light Airs & Cloudy
10 Smoak’d the Bread room wh. Brimston
12 Light Airs & fine Wr.

[Page 105]
Weather &c. Saturdy. Mar. 21st. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Calm & fair Wr. a swell from the NW.
2 Light Airs
4 Do. Wr.
7 TK.d Ship
8 Do. & Cloudy
10 Calm & dark Cloudy Wr.
12 Light Airs & hazey with drizling rain
[AM]
3 The Discovery fired a Gun, which we answerd with a Light & bore down to her
5 Light Airs & Cloudy.
8 Light Breezes & Cloudy
12 Mod Breezes & hazey Wr.
Discovery in Compy:

[Page 106]
Weather &c. Sunday March 22nd 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & Cloudy. a swell from NW
3 thick Misty Wr.
4 Do. Wr.
6 Fresh Breezes & hazey. wh. hard rain
7 Squally wh. hard rain In 1st. reef T. sails
8 Mod. & Cloudy
12 Do. Wr,
[AM]
3 Fresh Breezes & fair
7 Squally with rain, at ½ past saw Land bearing NbE.
8 Mod. & fair hauld our wind fix’d new. M. stay sail sheets, Extms. of the Land as seen from the mast head from No. to ENE. of Shore about 12 Leag.
12 Fresh breezes & fair Wr. Extms. Of the land as seen from Mast head from NbW to EbS. & a low pt. highest land NNE

[Page 107]
Weather &c. Monday March 23d 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & Squally with hail
4 Mod. & Cloudy.
7 TK.d Ship
12 Do. Wr. TK:d Ship
[AM]
2 Sounded 43 fathm. black mud, Squally with small rain
4 Mod. breezes with rain
6 at 8., Fresh breezes & hazey with rain
7 at 10, Strong Gales, got down T.Gt yards
8 at 11. Close refit the Top sails
9 at 12. Fresh Gales & hazey with rain
[Notes in side column]
The Southermost Extm. of the Land ESE ½ E the Noermost NbW ½ W. off Shore 5 Leagues
the Land extending from NbW ½ W. to EbS ½ S. the nearest part about 5 Leagues at 6 the same extreems bore NbW ½ W. to ESE, a high round hill NNE. & a small hummuck which appeared like a high rock detach’d from the main bore N ¾ W. dist. 6 or 7. Leag. betwixt this rock & the Northern Extremity of the land, there appear’d a small inlet which we flater’d our selves woud prove a good harbour for us, but Night Oblig’d us to stand off, the Country had a very pleasant appearance, being in general lower than what we had seen, & the flat part very extensive, it was well wooded when we tack’d we had 48 fathm. muddy bottom it is here about, Geographers place the straights of Defouco but we saw nothing like it; the very bad weather which follow’d, made us very happy that we had got a good offing.

[Page 108]
Weather &c. Tuesday March 24th 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh Gales & Squally with rain
3 ½ past TKd. Ship unbent the Jib & bent an other
5 Do. Wr. & hazey
6 Squally a heavy Sea
8 Do. Wr.
12 Squally with showers of hail
[AM]
4 Mod. & Cloudy
7 TKd. Ship out all reefs
8 Fresh breezes & Squally with hail at times
10 Do. & fair, Sailmakers repairing the Middle stay sail
12 Got up T.G. Yards. Mod breezes & fine Wr.
Discovery in Compy.

[Page 109]
Weather &c. Wednesday. March 25 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. Breezes & Cloudy
4 Do. Wr.
6 Light breezes & Cloudy, TKd. Ship in 1st. reef Top sails,
8 Do. Wr. & hazey
10 TKd. Ship
12 Mod. breezes & Cloudy
[AM]
2 Misty Wr.
3 Squally with small rain
4 Do. Wr. & hazey, Discovery fired a Gun answer’d it.
7 Fresh Gales & hazey with rain.
8 Do. Wr.
10 More Mod. & Cloudy, a great swell from the Westwd:
12 Fresh breezes & Cloudy.

[Page 110]
Weather &c. Thursday March 26 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh Breezes & Cloudy Wr.
2 Carried away the Jib sheet
4 Do, Wr.
6 Mod. & fair TKd. Ship
8 Do. Wr.
12 Squally with showers of rain
[AM]
3 At 5 in 1st. reef main & Mizn. Top sail at 6 squally with showers of hail & sleet found the starboard Main swifter strand’d under the Collar of the main stay, stop’d it up with one of the deck stoppers, Mod. & fair
9 Out 2d, & 1st., reef of the Main & 2d. of the Foretop sail
11 Sailmakers repairing the Jib
12 Out 2d. reef Miz.T. sail a very gerat Swell from the WNW. Light breezes & fair Wr.
Discovery in Compy

[Page 111]
Weather &c. Friday, March 27th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & fair Wr.
4 Do. Wr.
6 In 1st. reef Top sails
8 Do. Wr.
12 Light breezes & Cloudy.
[AM]
4 Mod. breezes & Cloudy.
8 Do. Wr. back’d Miz.T.sail for the Discovery, ½ past fill’d. Miz. T sail, Westerly swell not quite so high,
11 Sailmakers repairing the Jib,
12 Fresh breezes & hazey
Discovery in Compy:

[Page 112]
Weather &c. Saturday March 28 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & Cloudy
4 Do. Wr.
8 Do. Wr.
12 Mod. breezes & Cloudy,
[AM]
4 Light breezes & Cloudy
8 Do. Wr. out all reefs
9 began to distill Salt Water
10 Thick foggy Wr. Sailms. Emtid: as Yesty
11 Mod. & thick foggy Wr. back’d the Miz T. sail for the Discovery.

[Page 113]
Weather &c. Sunday March 29th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & thick foggy Wr.
2 Saw 3 penguins
4 Do. Wr.
6 Distill’d 12 Gallons of Water
7 In 1st reef Top sails
8 Do. Wr.
11 Try’d Soundings no Gd. 90 fatm.
12 Do. Wr.
[AM]
2 TKd. Ship no Ground 100 fatm.
4 Mod. breezes & thick foggy Wr.
5 back’d Miz.T. sail for the Discy:
6 ½ past fill’d it again
7 ½ past TKd. Ship
8 Saw a Sparrow hawk, Fresh breezes & hazey.
11 Out reefs, a number of porpoises
12 Wales & Seals about, Do. Wr.
Discovery in Compy.
[Notes in side column]
AM at ½ past 9, Saw the Land appearing very high & covered with Snow,
At noon the Land extended, from NWbW. to East, the nearest part 6 Leagues; between the Extm. point it forms a deep Bay & appears broken.

[Page 114]
Weather &c. Monday March 30th, 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & hazey.
[Remarks]
We observ’d that off the S.E. end of the land. there were breakers, & as we approach’d the land, we saw the appearance of two inlets the one bearing N ½ W. the other ENE, as we could not [indecipherable] the first, at ½ past 1 we bore away for the second, & as we approach’d the land had soundings; about 3 pass’d some breakers that lay 4 or 5 miles from the Shore, we had 18 & 20 fatm. abrest, & about 1. mile from them rocky bottom, but as we stood in further to the bight of the Bay found deeper water, It was near 4 before we were certain of its being any more than a deep bay, we than saw from the Mast head water over the low land to the NE of us. At 4; the Extreams of the Land from WNW ½ W. & SE ½ E. & the entrance NEbN. [28?] off Shore, Soundgs: 30 fatms, fine Sand. at 5, having got close in with the West Shore, & it falling little [indecipherable] hoist’d out the Boats to tow; we now saw ourselv’s at the entrance to appearance of a deep and extensive sound, with deep arms running up to the No. & NE, stood away for the latter, & night coming on, at dusk dropt the best Bower, in 86 fatm: water soft mudd, & steadied the Ship with a hawser from the Shore, the West part of the Sound seen from the ship, SW ½ W. off shore ¼ of a mile.
When we were at the entrance a boat came to us with one off the Natives, this was soon followed by another, & by the time we had got into the Sound, we were surrounded by 30 or 40. It will require the assistance of ones imagination to have an adequate Idea, of the Wild, Savage, Appearance & Actions of these first Visitors: as it is dificult to describe the Effects of Gesture & Motion. Their dark coppery colour’d bodies, were so cover’d over with filth as to make it a doubt, what was really their proper colour; their faces were bedaub’d with red & black paint & Grease, in no regular [indecipherable] but as their fancies led them; their hair was clotted also with dirt, & to make them selves either fine or frightful, many put on their hair the down of young birds, or platted it in sea weed or thin stripls of bark dyed red: the Dress of some was a loose skin thrown round their Shoulders, & which was not seemingly intended to hide their private parts, which in many were expos’d; others had [indecipherable] Cloak’s with a hole just. big enough to put their heads thro’, which came half way down their arms & a square garment which wrapt round their waist, these were excessive filthy, made like, & seemingly of the same Materials as the New Zeelanders dresses: their boats were of different [size?] & holding from 2. to 7 people, much resembling the shape of the Norway Yawls; they were row’d by paddles, the first men that came wou’d not approach the Ship very near & seem’d to [indecipherable]

[Page 115]
In King Georges Sound
with astonishment, till the second Boat came that had two men in it; the figure & Actions of one of these, were truly frightful; he work’d himself into the highest Frenzy, uttering something between a howl & a song, holding a rattle in each hand, which at intervals he laid down, taking handfulls of red ocre & birds feathers, & strewing them in the Sea; this was follow’d by a Violent way of talking seemingly with vast difficulty, in uttering the harshest & rudest Words, At the same time pointing to the Shore. Yet we did not attribute, this incantation. to thretning or any ill intention towards us; on the contrary, they seem’d quite pleas’d with us; in all the other Boats, some one or other acted nearly the same as the first man did.
After we had anchor’d the boats came along side without hesitation but none of the Natives chose to venture on board; one boat larger than the rest had as we suppos’d a Chief in her, or at least a man whose dress & manner were singular; he stood upright in the middle of the boat, & upon a plank laid across to be more conspicuous, the naked part of his body & his arms were painted with red & his face with a whitish paint, his head was wildly ornamented with large feathers which were tyed to a stiff string or sinew & fastned to the hair, so that they hung in different directions projecting from the head; to this man Captn. Cook offer’d a piece of [bay’s?] but he did not seem at all desirous of it, nor would he for some time accept of it, but kept repeating Sike mily which with some motions he made soon convinced us it was some tool made of Iron that he wanted; the man who first visited us, whose outward appearance I have mention’d was given some Medals & beads he took them very thankfully; he often repeated the word. Macooke; he threw into the Ship in return some dry’d herrings; the greatest number of the Canoes remain’d in a cluster around us till ten Oclock & as they had no arms & appear’d very friendly, we did not care how long they staid to entertain them selve’s & perhaps us, a man repeated a few words in Tune & regulated the meaning by beating against the Canoe sides, after which they all join’d in a song that was by no means unpleasant to the ear; a young man with a remarkable soft effeminate voice afterwards sung by himself, but he ended so suddenly, & unexpectedly, which being accompanied by a peculiar gesture, made us all laugh, & he finding that we were not ill pleased repeated his song several times: as they were now very attentive & quiet, In listning to their diversions, we judged they might like our music & we order’d the fife & drum to play a tune; & these were the only people we had seen that ever paid the smallest attention to those or any of our musical instruments, if we except the drum, & that only I suppose from its noise & resemblance to their own drums; they observ’d the profoundest silence, & we were sorry that the dark hindered our seeing the effect of this music on their countenances, not to be outdone

[Page 116]
King Georges Sound on the
in politeness they gave us another song, & we then entertaind them with French horns to which they were equally attentive, but gave us no more songs in return & soon after went away, excepting a few boats that kept paddling round us all the night, which was a very cold one, the Thermometer in the morning being 34°. the decks & shore cover’d with a hoar frost, the boats of the Natives were seen coming from the Wt side of the sound, & the greatest part of them stop’d on board the Discovery. which lay in their way to us.
At 9 Captn. Cook sent the masters of the two Ships & my self in search of a snug harbour, advising me not to look far, if there was another than that near the villages of the Natives, one of which we saw close to the West point in coming in; while the masters were ranging the Islands laying in the middle of the sound, we went to the N.W. side, & soon found an exceeding good cove abreast of the No.. of a range of some Islands stretching to the West point. where the Ships might be made fast to the shores, there was a very convenient river cross a narrow neck, which neck shelterd the cove from the NE, as a small Island opposite the entrance did from the S.Easty. winds; this neck would be very convenient for repairing the Mast & placing the Observatory,.
There are doubtless many well shelter’d harbours & coves between the Islands & the main all the way to the Village; but as our orders were to find one as far as possible from the Village we were satisfied with this & made haste back to the Ship, which we reach’d soon after noon; in the mean time the Captn, had been in search of a harbour on the NE side & found a cove very near the ship, which would answer all our purposes, & which he determin’d to move the Ship into, particularly as the wind was somewhat unfavorable to go to our cove; on the neck forming the No. part of that place was a house of the Natives, it was of an oblong shape; built up with boards on the sides & top, also, which was flat; there were two door ways on the corner which made us suppose it to be the residence of two families, the boards were as black as soot; an old Woman stood at the door. & began her incantation with all the frightful gestures that one can conceive; she was averse as were also two men to our going into the house, or examining it nearly, & we did not chuse to disturb them, we did not in the afternoon warp into the cove, but unbent the sails Struck the Fore top mast & set the Carpenters to work caulking the ships sides. the natives have been more numerous about the Ship to day than yesterday, bringing their goods to sell, but nothing for the mouth except dry’d herrings; we found that Macook: is will you trade which they very

[Page 117]
Western. Coast of North America.
eagerly repeated, & we found them sharp & keen in their dealings, but open & honest enough in letting you examine their things; they brought a variety of skins but in such small pieces so filthy & dirty, that very little were purchased of any value, their other dresses were so very nasty that it was impossible to bear them near one. they had many masks of human faces & heads of animals & birds, some not contemptibly done; they brought their war instruments to sell, amongst wich we found the exact shape & resemblance of a New Zeeland Patta Pattow; the bow’s arrow’s spears &c. – Most of them had a small crook’d knife, made of a very white sort of Iron; but they set too high a value on them to part with them. for these curiosities we gave Nails. Iron made in the shape of the iron in a plane but thicker, for they did not like our hatchets, next to Iron they value brass, & they were fond of Tin & pewter.
31st, In the morning we warp’d into the Cove dropt the S.m. Bower in 20 fatm; to the Eastd: & steadied with hawsers from the bows & Quartors to the trees on each side the Cove, our stern was about 50 Yards from the shore where the run we water’d at came down, in weighing the Br. before we warped in, we found notwithstanding the soft mud we made the ground to be by our lead & its great depth, that there are rocks, as our Cable was very much damag’d, & also the hawsers that steadied us, fastned to the trees: The Carpenters were kept busy on the sides; we ha’d never more boats of the Natives about us than to day, we counted 94, in the largest were 17 men, in the least 2; we judged, on an average that there might be 5 in each, or near 500, in all; all reserve’d doubt if ever they had any, was vanish’d, & we had more onboard than was convenient, mixing with the people in all parts of the Ship, with perfect confidence; we should have had reason to be well satisfied with their behaviour, had they not been such abominable theives; alth’o they had not the quickness & adroitness of our South sea friends, yet their impudence, perseverance, & cunning & above all having knives, made them more Mischievous; they have already stolen the fish hook cutting it out of the rope, a piece of Iron of great weight, also all thimbles & hooks of blocks & every thing within their reach they have contrived to carry off, the boats are fairly strip’d of their iron work about their rudders, alth’o there are men in them to guard, yet they continue very cunningly to keep them in talk whilst an other steals, we continued to be entertaind with their Songs to which they allways kept excellent time, by beating on the sides of the Canoes, & our attention is sometimes engag’d by some of the putting on a frightfull mask & making many antic Gestures; from these circumstances, one would suppose them a lively set of people, which however, they have perhaps the least pretensions of any set of men living; for the Major part are seen

[Page 118]
King Georges Sound on the
sitting in a heap in their boats with the gravest countenances regardless not only of what their own people are doing, but what ought to raise their curiosity of what we are about; indeed they are a most singular people, one will often observe these very phlegmatic folks rise up without any apparent cause, & work himself to a rage, repeating at somebody sentences of the harshest words the ear ever heard with the most violent exertion of the Muscles of all their limbs & on a sudden sit down & drop into the most torpid state, nor has this deamenour which made us stare, seemingly the smallest effect upon their hearer’s.
April 1st. Set the Observatory up upon a rock on the No. part of the cove close to the Ship; fixed up some instruments in it: The rigging of the Fore mast was lifted for the Carpenters to repair the bibs, we had found the starboard one at sea to be sprung we now also percieved the larboard to be in no better condition & the larboard trussel tree sprung; Whilst the Carpenters were repairing these defects & caulking, the parties on shore were cutting wood & making a convenient place to water at: the armourers had the forge set up to repair Iron work & make hoops for the Truss & trees.
The natives were not so numerous but we had every day new visitors, who generally came in large boats & apparently from some distance; on their first coming they all ways perform’d what seem’d a necessary ceremony which was pulling & making a circuit round both ships with great swiftness & their paddles kept in exact time, one man would stand up in the middle with a spear or rattle in his hand & a mask on his face sometimes the figure of human faces, at other times, those of animals, & kept repeating something in a loud tone, at other times they would all join in a song that was frequently very agreable to the ear; after all this they always came along side & began to trade without ceremony.
4th, In the forenoon our wooding & watering parties hail’d the Ship for more arms as the natives were arming themselves; we immediately observ’d them all to collect on shore & those wh’o had neither knives, bows, or spears, to lay hold of clubs & stones this so far alarm’d as to make the Captn: order those onshore to collect themselves on the rock where the observatories were, & we sent them an additional reinforcement & we on board

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at our small arms & a few Guns towards the natives who perceiving that they had alarm’d us, made signs that they expected their enemy or as they repeated weena wash, (weena signifies stranger,) to come around the South point of the cove, against whom were intended these preparations & we saw that they had boats which were looking sharp out for something: in a short time a party of about ten boats, made their appearance & stop’d short at the point; our old friends had got their boats hoisted upon the shore & their arms in readiness, but there appeared no order amongst them, nor any people wh’o acted the part of a commanders; there were two or three boats that pass’d between these parties; & since we could not be positive as to their intentions the Capt. sent me in the Pinnace to look up to the Sound to the No of the cove, or to see if any more boats were collecting; after dinner seeing that these two parties began to mix together we concluded that matters were made up between them, but we observ’d that on their offering to trade our old neighbours drove them away, & from the Canoes that had traded a little, took not only what they received from us, but what else they had left: this violent proceeding we had observ’d being done before; & we saw plainly that the different parties in this Sound ware not cordial friends; & it seem’d clear that those who first came to us claimed us as their exclusive property: about 3 the strangers left the Cove, & the others staid rather later then ordinary.
5th. At day light a few canoes about us received some intelligence which made them paddle away very expeditiously round to the No. point, we soon after saw the party that had been hinderd from trading yesterday afternoon, coming round the South point, they with great parade paddled round the Ships & sung in excellent tune; & afterwards traded with us till 7 or 8 oClock, we Observ’d that they had scouts looking out & at that time they got into their boats & collected togather, & pull’d towards the entrance; In a short time a party appear’d composed chiefly of our old acquaintance who drove the others away shouting & singing, but these again in a short time appear’d well arm’d with spears, & paddled gently towards our friends & kept singing in consert & flourishing their spears; they approach’d within a few yards of one another & we expected every instant to see them , an altercation ensued which appear’d aggravating as it was covered on with violence; it ended by our neighbours snatching up their spears & singing a new song with great vigour & spirit: when they ended, the strangers threw a stone at them, paddled gently round & went their way, they came singing & shaking their spears, probably challenging their opponents to follow them where they might not be hindred by us; be that as it may;

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our old acquaintances went aboard the Discovery which was the nearest to them; & we were surpriz’d at the Observatory in seeing them soon after pull away round the No. point in two different bodies & in a great rage; on enquiry we found, that a quarrel had happened, one man demanding a skin from another wh’o not chusing to grant the request, a skuffle ensued, & one of the men was wounded with a knife; this private quarrel engag’d the other Canoes wh’o took different sides, & a great uproar soon arose which ended with throwing a few stones & finally paddling away perhaps to decide the dispute out of our sight. The Cove was left with only 8 or 10, boats in it belonging to a set of people wh’o both yesterday & to day appeared perfectly unconcern’d at what was going forwards: -
The Carpenters having finish’d the repair of the bibs & trussel trees, we rigg’d the foremast; the head of the Mast was found [gall’d?] which made it necessary to fix a piece on to fill up the cap, but when they began to cut away the head of the mast for that purpose, they found both the cheeks so rotten that there was no posibility of repairing them but by fitting in new ones, which could only be done by our getting out the mast; it was evident that when the mast came on board first it was bad as one of the cheeks had been defective, & that part cut off & a piece fix’d in, which weakend the head of the mast, & our carpenters say helped to rot the rest: those that were anxious, as I believe all were, to prosecute our discovery’s, could not but feel chagrin’d at this defect as by the Captns.. declarations, we should in a very short time have gone to sea whereas now all the labour about the mast has been to no purpose; it however was consider’d as a lucky circumstance, that this should happen here where such proper wood is to be got; for in this Cove is a considerable quantity of drift wood, which is sufficiently large & well seasond for our purposes; we set about unrigging the fore mast & also the Main Mast, & in the afternoon had the mast unrigg’d & sheers erected for getting out the Fore Mast; the Carpenters were sent on shore to look out for a proper tree for Cheeks.
7th, In the morning got the Fore Mast out, & in the Afternoon hauld it on shore conveniently to work upon, we have hitherto taken no notice of the weather, since it has been invariably fine & moderate from our entring the sound till yesterday it became cloudy & foggy & this night came on to blow in squalls & attended with rain. on the 8th, a tent was spread over the Foremast for the Carpenters to work under, the wind from the SE increased & in the afternoon it blew in exceeding hard squall’s. right into the cove; in one of these squalls the head of the Mizen mast gave way under the rigging, owing in part to the mizon top.

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7th. mast spring stay being rather slack as well as the shrouds; as a good many of our Power shrouds were also found very bad we began fixing a new set of main shrouds from an 8 inch hawser, & took the best of the main & Fore shrouds for rigging forwards, in the night the wind abated, but had exceeding hard rain; notwithstanding the bad weather we had always some of natives came every day to see us, & they became very useful bringing us fish.
11th. The wind westerly & moderate but a good deal of rain; notwithstanding, they got the new main rigging over head.
12th. In the morning got spars from the shore, with which we erected sheers & a derric to get the Mizen mast out; as it was lowering down, the head of the mast fell off, it was so very rotten; we thought it a fortunate circumstance, that in the Gale it was sprung, otherwise as we could not see its defects under the rigging, we should have gone to sea
13th, with it, in the afternoon busied in cutting a proper tree for a mizen mast: not supposing we should want such a thing, the wooders had cut up stacks that would have answer’d better than a green tree. & on board got the main top mast rigging over head & set up the lower shrouds.
14th. The wind increased to a hard gale with rain; in the morning got the tree cut for for a mizen mast down to the water side & conveniently placed for the Carpenters to work upon it.
15th. The fore mast being finish’d we got it along side, but owing to the badness of the weather did not get it in till afternoon, many of the Natives were along side who regarded this piece of duty with an attention & astonishment that is far from common with them; since the 6th, the number of the natives have been much less than before these times as the most of them are now accustom’d to us, they are remarkably quiet or rather dull & heavy in their behaviour, & by no means became more sociable from a longer acquaintance, & very few will venture themselves between decks alth’o sometimes prest; but sell their fish & oil (the last the Capt. purchases for the use of Lamps) as dear as they can, & often make good bargains by meer dint of perseverance & tyring one out; I have observed half a dozen Canoes close together & not heard a single word spoken by any for an hour or more; this silent conduct.

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April 15th. of theirs is apt to strike us the more, as being so very different from the behaviour of the Islanders we have visited; whose perpetual din is the most tiresom & vexatious circumstance with them.
Strange Canoes now & then visit us & generally bring skins to sell, or rather trust the sale of them in the hands of our old acquaintances who are too honest to prefer us before their countrymen, In a boat that came yesterday, were a set of more comely & cleanly looking people then we had before seen, their dreses were also better & in every thing appertaining to them they appear’d superior to these we had seen; by their pointing, they came from the South Eastwd: these had either the skin of the middle of their noses rubb’d off or marks lately healed; with the blood that came from the wound they besmear’d their faces; two of them ventur’d down into the Captns: Cabbin & I believe were the first of the Natives wh’o chose to venture themselv’s there; they observ’d every thing with that vacant & heedless countenance which is common amongst Indians; & nothing fix’d their attention but the brass stove the poker & tongs: & these they seem’d much to admire & covet instead of their faces being bedaub’d with soot & Grease, they are more cleanly adorn’d with red paint & lead.
16th. We had to day both hail & rain; after the trussel trees were fix’d we rigged the Foremast & got down the sheers, whilst we on board were Empd. in rigging the mast forwd: the Carpenters were busied in making a mizen mast, but when they had nearly shaped the mast, they found the stick sprung so as to be unserviceable, suppos’d to be done in its fall, they had their labour to renew, & it took near a day before another tree was cut & pull’d down to the water side. –
19th. We had a fine day the first since the 7th. got the Top masts & Top Gallant masts an end, lower & top yards across, & rattled & set the rigging up. The fine Weather has also brought togather a great number of the Natives most of them are old faces their present sterngth keeps many others from coming to us, as we saw an instance of it yesterday when a party came to the entrance of the cove, but return’d as we imagin’d thr’o fear of them although at times a single large Boat comes, with whom they are either friends, or whose tribe is too strong for them to oppose, & whose manner’s shew a superiority: even with

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these some speeches past & ended generally in the strangers receiving in their boats one who use’d to manage their trade for them. In one of them we were surpris’d at seeing a couple of silver table spoons, hanging down a mans neck, they were evidently not English make; the man pointed to us that they came from the Southwd: as did his boat: but we could learn nothing farther, & as he sold the spoons for a pewter washand bason, he did not know the value of Silver, & could hardly have himself any knowledge of civilized people, except only in the cursory way he had of us.
20th. The Captn: went with a party to examine the Sound, they first visited the village round the west point before which is an excellent harbour; & they found a continuation of snug Coves between small Islands & the main from thence to the Sea cove I discovered the day after our arrival, which is about 2 miles from the Village & make the North of these well shelter’d places. when they had row’d about two Leags. from the entrance of the Sound they pass’d an arm running to the NNW & soon afterwards another in the same direction with a moderate sized Island before it; about a mile from this was a deserted vilage & near a place of remarkable short fir trees; they now went across the sound & pass’d another arm running in a NNE, direction & were happy in finding that the Cove, where the Ships lay, in was a large Island & that they had not to row back again; they landed at a tolerable large Village upon the main about 3 miles from the east end of this Island, & No. of it where they were but sourly receiv’d & very different from their reception at the Wt. village. From their Observations, the Island close to which we lay, takes up a great space in the Sound, on the West side of it are a number of scatterd Islands, of different dimensions, but I may be more particular in a discripsion of this Sound.
21st. Got the mizen mast in & rigg’d it, & got the Topmast an end; the Carpenters making a Fore top mast in the room of the one carried away, & from this time to the day of our Sailing, busily employed, in stowing away wood & water, setting up the rigging, bending sails, paying & Greasing masts, getting onboard the spare Topmast, Spars, & Timber, for sawing into Plank, also the Observatory & instruments, during which we had fine weather.

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A Description of the Sound.
Capt Cook has honour’d this place with the name of King George’s Sound; it is call’d by the natives, Nook’ka; it lies on the east side of a bay that the sea coast forms (which however has but a moderate bend & scarce deserve’s the name of a bay) the SE part of which has rocks & breakers off it, there are also breakers / close to which we pass’d off the NW. side & lying 2 miles from the shore; the entrance of the Sound is in Lat. 49. Long. & lies between two rocky points, & runs up to the N.E. 3 or 4 Leagues, not taking into account the different arms, 3 of which stretch from the North part of the Sound, & one large arm from the East; the middle space of the sound. is fill’d up with one large Island & several smaller ones to the westwd: but none to the NE. or Se. of it, part of this large Island is form’d by a narrow strip of high broken land; & the Cove where we lay is on the SE side of this neck & within half a mile of its South part; it is open to the SE winds, & has nothing I know to recommend it in preference or even equal to the harbour on the NW side except its being far removed from any settlement of the natives; none of the arms or inlets in this Sound were examin’d But there doubtless must be many excellant harbours in them
Description of the Country,
The land round the Sound is very much broken into high precipicess, & deep chasm’s, wooded to the water side where the shore is steep & rocky; the few level spots one meets with are only bogs & swamps, & the whole has a melancoly prospect; not even the marks or sight of animals, nor are birds either to be seen or heard to give some little animation to the woods of King. George’s Sound; the high mountains which rise on the back & far in the country are many of them bare & serve s to heighten & finish es the picture of as wild & Savage a country, as one can well draw in so temperate a climate: but this is only to be understood of the Sound, for both to the NW. & SE of it the land is of a midling height, level & a good appearance, particularly to the SE, where the country is flat for a considerable distance; & then rises gradually to the mountains, & this level country begins immediately round the East point of the Sound, whare are found a number of well beaten paths.

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Its Produce
The productions of this Country will be the best guide as to the Nature & quality of its soil, in this Sound the pine grows to a vast size, one was measured 40 feet in circumference near where we lay: besides the different species of pine trees which are the prevailing production of the Earth, are the Birch, Maple, & poplar tree’s, the arbor vitae, & Yew tree; of these which produce fruit, are the Cherry & elder Tree; & the Goosbery & rasberry bushes: of Esculent plants I know only of the Strawberry, onions & [nettles?]; there are fern’s which the Natives use; although vegetation has made considerable progress, the currant & Gooseberry bushes being on our departure in leaf, yet the spring had not advanced sufficiently to show what variety of plants & shrubs there were in this part of america, & our bounds were also limited to a very poor part of the Country; neverthe less the soil was loamy & rich, & as the Climate is milder than on the opposite coast of america; it must certainly be a better country than that; but in simply saying it has the advantage over east america in a like latitude, we do it great injustice; for in a much more southern latitude then 49 ½, the Earth there is not free from snow & Ice the begining of april, whereas here there was not the smallest appearance of either; Grass had already shot up to some height, the bushes were budding & the air was temperate, the Thermometer never being lower (except the morning we came in) then & after up to; for the first 8 days the weather was remarkably fine & clear, there was no judging how the wind then blew, as its direction was so. alter’d by the land, & although in our logs it is put down S. Easterly, yet by the motion of the Clouds it must rather have blown from the N.W; for 10. days after this we had as bad weather as what was before fine, the rain we had here fell in snow showers upon the neighbouring hills or mountains which before were clear; the wind was cirtainly during the rainy time Southerly, & in the heavy gale of wind we had, from the Eastwd: after this spell of bad, it was succeeded by fine weather for the remaining time we stay’d; what afterwards may be said respecting the dress of the inhabitants & their houses may also prove that this part of america is situated in a temperate climate & fit for Cultivation.

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April 21st.
Animals, Our excursion’s were so limited that had we been inclined to have disregarded the consequences of meeting with the natives, who were but few in number, yet the nature of the country would have stopp’d us, the land being so much broken, & as the number of trees that were fallen down impeded all attemps to proceed in any one direction; no wonder therefore that we saw but few Animals, & these were only the racoon, pole cat, and squirrel: If the woods were free from Animals, they were equally so of Birds; possibly the earliness of the season makes them as yet scarce; Crows, Ravens, & Jack daws were numerous & common particularly about the habitations of the Natives, the Tit mouse & wren
[In column] Birds,
were also common, beside these, our sportsmen kill’d Jays which are as noisy as ours, a beautiful thrush with a red breast, & the Natives brought us a great many humming birds, all of one kind & very beautifull, their breast exhibiting in the sun a red gold colour I am told they are common on the east side. the white headed Eagle & a smaller Eagle are often seen; we have seen flocks of geese & other’s of swans; sand pipers of an ash colour keep in flocks, & were the only birds that were kill’d in any plenty for the dish, their flavour being excellent; Of sea fowl I know only of Gull’s & albatrosses; it is amost singular circumstance that meeting with the latter; as in the western atlantic ocean they are never to be seen to the North of the tropic of Capricorn nor so far, not being a bird that inhabits hot climates; & yet sometimes he must have [pass’d?] the line; or otherwise he could not be here; we however met with but very few, & these solitary, whereas to the Southwd: they are very numerous,
[In column Fish,]
We were greatly disappointed in not getting an ample supply of fish, which would have in some measure corrected our salt meat diet & been a recompence for other wants & we were a little doubtfull but that either by our own nets & lines, or by the help of the natives we ever should get a plentifull supply, in this we deceived ourselves, & that not owing to our own idleness, but to the scarcity at this time of fish; the Natives had got lately a tolerable quantity, but only brought a small fish resembling, & is I suppose, an anchovy; which are very good, an insipid flat fish & sometimes bream, & what are call’d a rockard which was coarse rank & ill flavourd; however in proper seasons, fish must be more abundant

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April 21st. as the natives had plenty of dried herrings; all the rivulets had [weirs?] laid across them; but possibly their grand supply is in seals, sea beaver, (or sea otter) the skins of which is so valuable at China) Whales & porpoises.
[In column - Insects,]
The early time of the year is I presume the cause why we saw so few belonging to this division, as the most of them are troublesome & obnoxious, one might wish there were never more. The Musquitoe’s that constant tormenting companion of damp uncultivated places is here large & I doubt not exceeding troublesome, there are different sorts of flies, the large bee; & other flies, those not winged are Lizards neut’s & harmless snakes.
[In column - Shells,]
I know of no uncommon ones. here, if any but muscles & limpets, having gone through a short description of the natural productions of the land & Sea, there remains somewhat more to be said in addition to what has been already related concerning the inhabitants.
[In Column - Description of the Inhabitants]
It will readily appear that so situated as we were, we can form but a poor judgment as to their numbers; any scale of proportion drawn from observations in so apparently wild apart of the Country, will be [firstly?] in estimating the population in other even contiguous places; there are on the parts of the sound we visited 5 villages, two, much smaller than the other three, the large ones were one round the west point of the Sound, another on the NE & the third & largest in a deep bay on the East side; the two first of these were visited; the number of habitations noted, & from these observations – were supposed to contain each 700 Souls, the largest one we may suppose 1000, & the two small ones 100 each; which will make 2600, inhabitants in the whole, to explain the manner & subsistence, the ease & plenty, or otherwise, with which it is to be procured would be the best rule to judge of their numbers, but of this we can say but little; the Land certainly yields them next to nothing, as they do not cultivate it, nor do they make use of its good natural productions such as onions; & the only use we saw them make of any of its productions was eating the lily root & chewing the rosin from the pine, that a part of

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their subsistence may be got from the Wild animals is cirtain from the skins we saw; & from supposing that their mask’s of the heads of these animals were used as decoy’s; but the principal supply must be from the sea; their implements of Fishery were numerous, & what we saw them live upon was from the productions of the sea; which may afford a very large & easy supply, & makes them on the sea coast numerous; but leaving the wild field of conjecture to others to range in, I shall go on to describe these people; Their colour is of a lighter brown
[In column] Colour
than any of the Islanders in the South seas, & I doubt not were their women kept clean & not exposed but that they would be as fair as the portuguise; some of us even thought that they were naturally as white as ourselves; & that their dark brown appearance was entirely owing to the perpetual crust of grease & paint surrounding their bodies; & in some of their women, thr’o this filth we saw sometimes part of thei’r skin free from dirt of a good white colour; bit I observ’d that one of the fairest of these after being well scrubb’d & washed, was much darker than before, or rather that the filth set off & gave a whiteness to that which was clear which is lost when all is of one colour: at the first sight I represented them as of a coppery colour, but their I was deceived from their painting, for if I might judge they have scarce any connection, but are of a dull whiteish brown Complection.
[In column} Features,
There is that variety in their form of their features which makes it difficult to reduce them to a common standard; yet to describe them generally they are broad face’d with high cheek bones, their noses small & neither flat nor prominent, little mouths, small Eyes void of fire, & in a natural state their faces project out towards the chin & have an unusual flatness on the fore head; but by art this is much attir’d; I saw some young chilldren who by the care taken of them were of note, that had their heads squeezed so as to make the length of the top of the head out of all proportion, & some of the skull’s we saw had the same shape.

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They are under the middle size, & we saw very few above that standard, in general coarse & ill shaped particularly about the knee’s & legs, owing as we suppose to their being much in their Canoes & sitting upon their heels, there were some stout muscular well made short men, but oftenner otherwise.
Their hair is black of uncommon strength & wore long, sometimes tyed in a Club oftener loose & very frequently twisted into a number of [Queues?], which by the addition of a vast quantity of dirt makes this head of their’s look like a swab; they take no small pains in adjusting their hair, & giving it a sufficient quantity of paint & grease, & lastly in powdering it with the down of birds, which is carried in bags or machines. Their ears are perforated all round thr’o which they hang Copper ornamentals, some of them are flat, others cylindrical pieces of wood about 3 inches long, covered with thin copper, pieces of bone, & whatever small thing they got famous, as buttons &c. & those who are not rich enough to ware the above ornaments have strings knotted. Pendants from the nose were not general, nor had many holes thr’o the cartilage but had small flat pieces of copper shaped like a cresent hanging by it, few others, had cilindrical pieces of Copper hanging by strings through the nose, our neighbours who were not a set of as respectable looking people as many of the strangers, were obliged to content them selves with rubbing their face over with a composition of bears grease, & soot, & then with their fingers they made different lines as their fancy’s led them; but the others had often the forehead daub’d over with red paint, & the chin & lower part with black lead which I observ’d was the most valuable as it was the scarsest article of their finery: We must on this article of dress take some notice of the women, who however contrary to our custom do not take half the pains in decorating themselves that the men do, they were satisfyed with simple grease & dirt, had no ornaments hanging from the ears & noses, but round their arm’s would have sometimes bracelets made of Copper or Shells; the stature of the women was very little, & they had a more general characteristic face then the men; round & flat faces, high cheek bones, plump cheeks, little mouth’s, noses, & Eyes; on the whole

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their features ugly & the expression of their countenances unmeaning; their limbs were delicately made, & very small hands & feet; many of the men & women were punctulated, but in no particular shape or part of the body & that very little. There were some elderly men with thick long respectable white beards; although it seems to be a practice to pluck the hair out as it grows, so that the greatest part have no beard, or but thinly scatter’d on their chins; but as other parts of the body are by no means wanting of hair, naturally, these people would have the same sign of manhood on their cheeks as our selves, which will make a distinct race of this people from the general race of Indians. inhabiting this Continent, who are universally represented as having a smooth skin in all parts of the body.
[In Column] Dress,
I shall defer the rest of their dress till we give some description of the [manufacturies?] &c. only observing, that excepting the loose skins of animals thrown as a cloak about the men, the other part of their [habiliments?] are the same in both sexes.
[In Column] Disposition & turn of Mind
It might be imagined that there can be little difficulty in describing the tempers & manners of a set of people, who are unacquainted with the various artifices by which civilized nations learn to hide their real dispositions; but as we are amongst the latter, on our guard, against deceptions; & also better acquainted with the windings & turnings of mens minds educated as ourselves, our judgments are not perhaps so liable to err, as in examining those of a very contrary nature; we came here more unprepar’d & have not that test within ourselves, whereby to judge, of the working of the human mind in its rude state; or rather few of us are capable of seperating the invariable & constant springs by which we all are moved; & what depends on education & fashion: There are besides many other difficuties in our way; as we cannot be said to converse with the people, we can only judge from outwards actions; & not knowing all the causes that give rise to them,

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we must constantly be led into error, this also leads us to form conclusions on the narrow confined space of our own Observations & what has immediately happen’d to our selves; whence one person will represent these people as sullen & obstinate & mistrustfull, another will say they are docile, good natur’d & unsuspicious, the former will prove his assertion from their Phlegmatick temper, from their unwillingness to comply with what has the smallest appearance of compulsion, & from their manner of bartering examining with the greatest suspicion our articles of trade, & not relying on their own judgment but making them pass the same examination amongst not only all in the same boat, but all the Canoes along side, at the same time holding their own goods fast & which they would not trust out of sight; neverthe less they are on the whole honest in their dealings; he will all so instance, the perpetual squabbles amongst themselves, & their taking by force things from one another.
He wh’o supports the contrary character, will say that they have a nice sense of affronts which their passionate & quick tempers immediately resent, that this makes them sensible of a courteous behaviour, & which is return’d on their parts with perfect good nature: that they are easily to be gained by a mild flattering carriage: & that a different proceedure will be highly [risented?]; that all this is very contrary to a sullen & obstinate character; that the quarrels amongst them selves, are mostly between different parties; & that they are the freeest from all invidiousness & from all deception in their actions of any people in the world; shewing their resentments instantaneously, & totally regardless of the probable consequences of so ill timed an appearance of their displeasure; & these are strong marks against the charge of a sullen & a mistrust full carriage. The facts on which the above reasonings are founded are true, I will add some other transactions between us which may enable any one to make what conclusions he pleases in all our intercourse with Indians, we never before gave so great a latitude to insolent behaviour as we did to these, & this was owing entirely to its being evidently on their parts, the consequence of some supposed affront, which the person himself resents without his Country men taking, the smallest share in his Quarrels; This independancy of,

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King Georges Sound on the
April 21st,
of spirit claimed our admiration, & as we saw that there was no danger from any combination, we took the greater pains not to offend individuals, or not to be hasty in chastizing them, & particularly as their behaviour to us was the same as to one another, for having no conception of our superiority over them in our weapons, they were equally ready to Quarrell with us, as with their own countrymen; no people had higher Idea’s of exclusive property; they made the Captn: pay for the grass that he cut at the village, although useless to themselves, & made a merit after being refused payment for the wood & water we got in the Cove of giving it us & often told us that out of friendship they had given these articles to us; nevertheless they did not act up faithfully to the rule laid down by themselves; for we never met with more audacious thieves, but consious of acting wrong when detected they suffered them selves, & very quietly to be used roughly; & it was very frequent for them to inform against one another; indeed we saw no instances of sympathy & kindness towards their brothers, but a regardless & indifferent behaviour to their distresses & wants the Captn: once found it necessary to fire a load of small shot at a man who had stolen an iron stanchion, which wounded the fellow, & his boat pull’d out of the cove, amidst the hootings of his countrymen.
In their thefts they differ in one respect from our Island friends, that here they only stole what was useful to them, for our linen & cloaths hung up on shore many nights in the midst of them & untouch’d.
On the whole these Americans are of a phlegmatick constitution, with a very high independant spirit, which makes them quick in resenting affronts, & at the same time void of all feeling & sympathy for one another, looking to themselves alone for protection & support.
We saw no instances of either tenderness, or hardness in their treatment of their women, indeed we had very few opportunities of observing them together; we had the good fortune, in near a months intercourse, of having no serious Quarrel, whereby any of them lost their lives or were hurt, excepting the wounding a fellow with

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shot; but I can hardly conceive, that a like good fortune will attend any future Ships that may visit them, & have so free an intercourse at the same time; their thefts in the first place, but more particularly their high spirit, making them so frequently pull out their knives, or laying hold of some other weapon to defend themselvs; will draw upon them a severe Chastisement.
The instruments with which their Houses Canoes & other arts are perform’d are wedges made of hard wood, (these may be properly be call’d their own), knives & Chisels; the former are of a curious shape, being the segment of a circle, the convex part matching the sharp side, or like our cheese cutters, if hollowed in the inside; these are but small & fix’d to a wooden handle, & they cut from them instead of towards them as we do; The Iron amongst them is of a very white kind, & the instruments made of it are evidently of their own manufacturing; these & other large pieces of Iron made something into the shape of a Spontoon, for killing whales with, are in too many hands, & too common to suppose that this metal has been supplyed by any chance vessels putting in here or on the Coast; the supply must be from a more certain source of a long continuance, although but in small Quantities.
[In column] Houses,
As places of abode, we may call them so, but not as resembling otherwise our Ideas of houses, they are rather long booth’s not open in front, or rather covered passages enclosed at the ends & sides. The village at the west end where our gentlemen were suffered to examine & very civilly invited into their houses, consisted of three rows of these buildings, making some appearance of streets between them, & of alley’s at the ends; the frame of the building consists of three rows of rough posts, with large tree’s laid upon them the whole length of the building; on these are laid loose boards which serve for a roof, & is neither Wind or Water proof; the boards, making the sides & ends, were fix’d to the upright posts, & so inartificially done, as also to be no proof against the weather; the largest of these buildings was about 140 feet long, between 30 & 40. broad & 8 in height; & this had many separate divisions, the more general size were about 50 feet in length & 30 in breadth; the boards

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King Georges Sound on the
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were mostly 30 feet long & from 3 to 5 broad & form’d by splitting large trees; many of the buildings were up on the banks by the sea side, & part of which rested on a flooring of logs supported by stout posts; upon one of the buildings on the west town, was a tree supported by two posts of an immense size capable of making a mast for a first rate, it must have required no small force to have placed it, although they could perceive no use or End that it could answer, The entrance is at one corner, in the front of which are boards running parralell to the end of the buildings & making a double end to half its breadth, which obliges us to turn to the right & left before one gets fairly in; In these buildings where there are partitions on each side they are divided from one another & from the passage by boards 3 or 4 feet high, In these which have only a division on one side, the passage is close to the opposite side, for the most part there are four families in the larger & two in the smaller buildings, by which means each family has a part of the side side & wall to hang their bundles up, on these sides their appartments are a little raised by boards, & matts placed on them; where they sleep, sometimes their will be two stages raised one above the other; In the middle of each division is the fire place; round which, as well as in the passage, are the fragments of their meals, stinking fish, and all other nastiness, suffered to remain; they have holes to let out the smoke, sometimes in the sides, & in some under the boards thr’o the ground; for sight they very easily remove part of the roof. their furniture consists of boxes (which are rather two boxes, each wanting an end, & so to slide into, one another) wooden bowls, platter’s, horn spoons & matts, every part of the building is hung with fish; to sum up all, they are the worst adapted & filthiest houses that can possibly be in this world; as they saw no appearance of their ever being made more defensible against the Weather, many concluded that these could only be thei’r summer habitations, & that in the winter, they went into the Country, where they had houses better adapted to the Season.

[Page 135]
Western Coast of North America
April 21st. Canoes.
I have before mentioned that their Boats, resemble in shape Norway Yawls they differ from them only in being larger in proportion to the breadth & in the rising of their head & stern; the midling siz’d ones are 35 feet long, 6 ½ broad & near 3 deep, they have a hollow in their prow for laying the spears, darts, harpoons &c. in, the large ones on the outside are painted with figures, from forward: to the middle, that have no resemblance to any known animal, but uncouth out of the way shapes of birds, sometimes animals, & often a mixture of both; some of the largest are hollow’d from a single tree to less than 2 inches in thickness & others have the bottom dug out of a tree, & the sides raised with plank, pegg’d & lash’d to the Bottom, & to one another, these were not so common as those compleatly hollow’d; the greatest number of people; we ever saw in one boat was 40, the smallest will hold 2; their paddles are about 5 feet long, sharp and pointed at one end, (which makes it no contemptible weapon of Affence.) broadest in the middle & tapering gradually, to the handle; there is not the smallest appearance of their ever using sails, nor could we perceive they had any idea of their use; they seem’d to spend a great deal of time in their Canoes; for there were many who could hardly night or day have been out of them all the time we stay’d; all the Strangers brought in their Canoes the boxes we have observ’d as a part of their household furniture; these are not badly carved, nor inelegantly ornament’d with bones & teeth indented; besides these boxes they have leathern bags to keep their things dry.
Fishery.
For this principal part of their subsistence, they use wears, Nets, hooks & line, harpoons, & Gig’s, & other appendazes for the whales as bladders &c. – their hooks are made of wood & bone & are indifferently good, but their Gigs do credit to their ingenuity; they are made of two pieces of bone lash’d across, at one end between them is inserted half a muscle fill’d with rosin & made very sharp, in the other is the stick with which it is thrown, a sinew about 2 fathom long is fastn’d to the Gig, & to the handle, which seperates it from the Gig when the fish or animal is struck, & serves as a buoy; they had an extraordinary instrument to catch Small fish, which was something of the shape of an oar; about 15 feet long & 4 inches broad, with teeth made of bone fastn’d along both edges for 2/3 ds of its length;

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King Georges Sound on the
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We never saw them use any of their fishing Geer, & therefore can not say how they handled this or their other implements or whether they are very dexterous.
Weapons, They have the Bow & arrow & seem more expert in using it, these would be suppos’d but as they are indifferantly made, & weak at the point of the arrow & are made dangerous, having a sharp muscle shell, or copper, or Iron, fixed to a barbed piece of bone which takes up about ½ of its length; for a closer fight, they had spears which were not remarkable for their length, but for being pointed with a stout well polish’d bone tapering to a sharp end, for still closer Quarters, they had short weapons like bludgeons, that are made of whale bone, & exactly like the Patta pattaow at New Zeeland, & a short kind of a Tomahawk, this has a short handle with generally a human face carv’d at one end in the mouth of which was fix’d a piece of bluish black stone meant to represent an enormous tongue belonging belonging to the face, & to make the resemblance stronger, hai is fix’d to the carv’d head, these are all the offensive weapons we saw, except their knives which have been already described; all these objects of their art (excepting the houses) are neatly executed, & well adapted for their purposes, but their chief skill is display’d in their masks, & many of these both of the human face & of birds & other animals had an expression in them which do honour to their genius; in all their masks it is not their intentions to follow nature, but to represent it distorted in various ways; Their inventions in sculpture were almost entirely confin’d to the human face & heads of birds & animals; besides these meerly ornamental arts, they have combs the wideness of whose teeth make them, we should suppose, useless but they are carved neatly & wore in their heads;
[In column Dress]
having finished with their arts, we will proceed to their Manufacturies, & a description of the dresses of the Natives. Besides the skins thrown loosely about them which serves as an entire dress, they have an other composed of a short cloak, close all round with a hole just large enough to admit their heads through coming over the shoulders as low down as the [elbow?], & a square piece of the same materials which comes over one & under the other & ties across

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Western Coast of North America.
April 21st.
the breadth; this fell 1/8 way down below the knee; in warm & fair weather the upper is generally thrown aside; we never saw them wear anything to keep their legs & feet from the inclemency of the weather, although their head were admirably well provided againt it, by a hat made in the shape of a flower pot with a cap often made within that, which fitted better to the head, this hat is well made of basket work & painted, which effectiedly keeps out the rain; they are sometimes of very beautifull conical shape with a ball at the top; & on these are generally represented their whale fishery. The whale is shown as half out of the water & a man in a Canoe in the act of striking it, who has his large bladder & other things in his boat well represented, 5 other boats are in a line each having hold of a rope from the other; they are all black & represented in a white field; the top has alternate circles of black & white, which, were they clean, would make their hats a very beautiful covering.
The dress which we have described is made from the bark of a Pine tree, which they beat into a hemp like consistence with the same wooden oblong instrument as they use at the Islds: for a like purpose; the women in their houses were seen at work upon these dresses, & they proceeded in the very same manner that the New Zeelanders do in their A’hoos; the tops were generally a strip of fur of the sea beaver, & the bottom was edged with a narrow strip of their woolen manufactury, the same dresses were also made of a mixture of hair & wool, the grain was so woolly that we sometimes suppos’d that they must have Sheep or animals like them to afford that substance; but the natives often pointed to the wild Cat. the Fox, & Wolf, but to which the hair belong’d & to which the wool we could not learn, there were different degrees of wooliness in these yarn threads, some partaking more of the hair than others, these were not worked so loose as that made of pine bark, but the horizontal threads were laid close togather & crossed by others so as to make a close work & much resembling our coarser coverlids; the threads were often dyed of different colours, & in some of their dresses made of this stuff the fur of the sea beaver was work’d upon it, or as we call it thrumbed into it, which had an excellent effect, & in one dress

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King Georges Sound on the
April 21st.
they had represented, as in our tapstry, a human face; these kind of dresses were the property of the strangers & I doubt not had we been lucky enough to have found a harbour a few degrees to the Southward, but we should have had a better opinion of the arts & manufacturies of these people.
Occupation & Amusements
Ships of our size & people of our colour & manners, must be such a novelty to Indians who have not before been visited, that during the short time they generally stay all regular labour & occupations end, & the time is given up to dissipation; we therefore seldom can see them at their daily toil, & here again we had a less opportunity by being coop’d up in a Cove far remote from the villages & from any open view were they might be seen any otherwise then as visitors to us; we however may conclude that the arts which we have described & the [procuring?] sustenance for their daily wants & winter stores must in this Country keep them pretty constantly employed & also that these laborious parts fall to the share of the men; & that the Cleaning of fish, hanging them upon poles many of which are erected before their houses, & the manufacturing of their dresses belong to the women, because they have been seen busied about these things; Their cookery is the joint work of both sexes & consists of broiling, boiling, & baking; the first is simply a wooden skewer stuck thr’o a fish & held over the fire, which as we have said is in the middle of their apartments where a number of round stones are placed to put the wood on; they boil their fish in wooden bowl’s or trough’s by means of these hot stones which they throw in amongst the water & fish, & take them out with a wooden tongs; when it is sufficiently boiled they sup the broth with horn spoons, & when it is cold enough apply their hand to the platters eating all out of the same dish: in these two methods as customary they are as dirty & filthy as they can well be; but their baking surpasses all, after cutting the fish into junks & throwing it down in the midst of stinking Gutt & bones they remove the whole wood on the fire from the stones which are first made sufficiently hot, & throwing these junks upon part of them in that dirty condition cover them over with the remaing hot stones & ashes, & in order to

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keep the heat they clap over all their old greasy habits that are seen swarming with lice, old mats & what else is at hand; these stones continue their heat a long time after the fire is out & serve also to keep them warm the longer.
Amusements. Their amusements as far as we saw consisted of songs, & dances accompany’d with singing also; To welcome a friend, as well as to defy or frighten an enemy, is anounc’d by songs; & we who could not understand the words, perceived no difference; seemingly the necessary ceremony of paddling round the ship singing & shaking their spears, might be meant as a sign of friendship, or as soon taken for a mark of enmity, & we at first doubted to which to attribute it.
A few days before we left this place; a large party came to the entrance of the Cove & stop’d there, fearful as we supposed of approaching nearer, we had thoughts of sending a boat to them; but we found that they were only preparing to give us this mark of amity in a grander stile than ordinary; they took a large circle round the Ships, paddling their Canoes with great rapidity & their strokes taken exactly togather; they all joind in a song that had a variety of tones & a harmony that equally surpriz’d & pleas’d us, at certain times they struck their paddles against the sides of their Canoes so exactly together as to make only one stroke, & which was represented so as to answer to our half time; but the parts often ended with a savage howl; There were generally some in their Canoes who did not paddle but stood up & accompanied the song with rather violent actions; One Canoe was man’d with naked youths (their heads were curiouly adorn’d with leaves) whose song was truly harmoious & unaccompanied with the howl; besides these ceremonious songs, they at parting paddled away singing & shaking the saws & other Iron tools they had purchased. The dances of the men which we saw were performed by only one man, to give him room to exhibit, a plank usd to be laid across two Canoes, The motions were equally with the hands & feet, & indeed the whole body, & indeed little more than the antic tricks of a mountebank, often shifting their masks & dresses, one of which was a leather jacket, with a number of deers hoof’s fastend to it; which the dancer shook about & often in his hand held a rattle

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King Georges Sound on the
April 21st,
in the shape of a bird, this & a pea whistle were all the musical instruments we saw amongst them, the spectators joind in a song to the dances, keeping measure by beating with their paddles or hands against the sides of the boats, nothing could be more rude then these specimens of their dances, but probably on shore where there is room, a number might make up the dance, when some regularity might be observable; for in the Village were the men behav’d rather rudly to our gentlemen, the women got together & entertaind them with a dance.
Government. We observed very little distictione in rank amongst them, & could only guess at some people’s being chiefs; That they are divided into a number of independant separate communities is certain, & were given instances that the controls amongst them are very frequent & probably bloody, since the day of our arrival [indecipherable] was purchas’d from them many skull’s & dried hands with the muscles of the arms adhering which we imagin’d were kept as trophies of their prowess; that they were not the skull’s of people dying a natural death, was proved from there being evident marks of violence on some of them; these skull’s were bare; we suppose it also to be a custom amongst them to make their prisoners slaves, for a man brought on board a boy of about 6 years old & wanted to sell him for some Iron; at another time a young girl was hawk’d about, but finding that we were not pleased with the proceedings they never afterwards plagued us. The man who brought the boy made motions of knocking the child on the head which being observ’d by some of our gentlemen they conceiv’d, the fellow brought the boy to sell for food, & made motions to the man [indecipherable] they should eat the boy, which he nodded his assent to, but I was present & rather conceived that the mans motives signified only that he wanted Iron to cut with, & it is certain he only wanted a hatchet; therefore it would be cruel either to charge, or bring this as any proof of so horrid a Custom as devouring their own species.
Religeon. We can do nothing better than conjecture on this subject; we imagin them idolaters & that they pay some worship to the works of their own hands; for in the largest house in the West Village on the top of which we have Observ’d was

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April 21st,
suspended supported a prodigious tree, in the inside at the middle & the No. end were two trees the upper parts of which had the figures of human faces, every feature of which was strangely distorded & out of proportion & of a vast size, these were sometimes covered with mats & there was such a serious maner in their shewing it, which with their saying a great deal concerning it made one conclude that it had some relation to their religious notions; the natives would sometimes bring, strange carved heads & place them in a conspicuous part of the Ship, & desire us to let them remain there & for these they would receive no returns; we also observ’d them frequently in their selling us their masks which would be covered closely up, they would use a misteriousness & often as secretly, bringing them as slily to us, which showed they were consious of committing perhaps an impious crime in selling to us their Gods. At the time when the Captain prevail’d on some of them to venture down into his Cabbin, they carried 4 wooden busts, which they placed in a particular order in the Cabbin & also a carved screen work that folded & which stood up about the height of a fender almost allround the Cabbin; & in aranging these things, they look’d very grave & address’d themselves to us pointing to the images & the skreen work, the words they used where the harshest possible; in expressing of which they had themselves great dificulty, & it is not in the nature of letters to be so combined as to express the sounds of them; & these are all the appearances of religion we observed in them. -
Tides.
It is high water at 20 minutes past 12. the perpendicular rise 2 days after full moon, is 8 Feet,, 9 In. but the Night tides must be considerably higher, then those in the day, at least 2 Feet. & which gave us some trouble, as it floated away the Cut wood, & drove trees foul of the sprouts & Warf that in the day time where in no danger this often obliged us to clear the Cove, in the early Morning tides of wood that the Night ones had set afloat; It is our oppinion that the flood sets into the Sound rather from the NW. then SE, because the heavy Gale of wind we had from the SE. did not raise the Water, but we though the Contrary; I had forgot to Mention that at the head of the Sound where the large inlet ran in, they found the Water brackish. which is against a Supposn: of their being a commun: into Sea, thro this Inlet.

[Page 142]
Observations on the Dipping Needle in King Georges. Sound.
[Observations not recorded]

[Page 143]
King Georges Sound.
During the first five days of observations of equal altitudes, for finding the rate of the Clock & Time keeper, the latter was found going nearly a mean time, but for the 15 following days. its rate of losing was from 5" to 10" pr. day, a difference that we never before observed it to have; the Mean of the last 15 results where taken for its true rate & was 7" losing or mean time pr. day, & on the 16th. April slow for mean time 16",, 58"..45 the Longd: on that day allowing Greenwich rate 235° 58’,,45. according to the rate found at the Society Isles 234°,,9’,,3", assumed true Longd: being 233°,,17’,,30". The clock was found losing 2",,83, on siderial time
On the 16th. April 12h,,47’.44", Astronemers apparent time Emersion of 2, Satellite [Jupr:?]:
[Further observations not recorded]

[Page 144]
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]

[Page 145]
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]

[Page 146]
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]

[Page 147]
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]

[Page 148]
A Vocabulary of the Language at
Yes, - Ai, or Aio,
To exchang or barter - Ma’cook.
Give more for it - Tlaue’mai or Kyo’mai.
To paddle - Kootche & Kotche.
White buggle beads, - Ta’wailuck.
To. eat. to chew, - A’ook, & Cha’mis,
A Hatchet or mail or
rather Iron of any sort- Seeke’maile.
This - Ah’koo, & ah’ko.
Give it to, Let me look
at it, or Examin it - Ka’a’ & K’a’a Chelle.
Will he not do it - Wook’hak.
No, let it lay - Wook & Wik
Take it - Ma & Ma’a’
A hatchet or hacking tool.- Chake’up.
Displeasure, - Etche, & A’beesk.
Food - Ha’oome, & Ha’ooma
Bad, - Tak’ko – as
bad or thin Iron is, - Tak’ko, Seeke-maile
I – me,? - Chelle.
Broke - Kaseo
I say. – Friend - Heakye Alle.
Keep it, It is not good
I’ll not have it, - Kl’ao’ appe & Kla’o’
Long, or large, 2 as long as this,- As, ko
Cloathing in General - Fla,kooesh’maish.
Will you not do it. - Wick’ hak.
A metal button a Earing - Tah’quo’c’ & Took,’quo’o’c.
Calling to one perhaps you.- Wae.
Cha’uk - Water.
Sparkling (Iron) sand they
sprinkle on their faces - Week, eeta’teish
To Give, Give me - Pa’cheitle, or Pa’ chatle.
Friendship, Friend - Ha’weilth, & Ha’.weilsth & [Haweeth?]
To paint or mark with a pencil - Klees’ eett
Friend, speaking to one,
as I say. To Go away or depart- A’beetsle.
To remain or Abide - Shee, sook’to.
The large bone point of a
Whale Lance, or a weapon - See’eek.
The wood of the depending pine - Ta’ak,
To drink - Leek’sheet, & Leek’ sheitt
A Tree or Wood - Soochis.
A Broad Leaf shrub, or underwood - Hasee’aipt & Halacee’Aipt.
Vergated pine, Silver Pine - To’humbeit
The depending pine or Cypress - At’lieu
Canadian Pine - Koce’klept.
Go - Cho
The Sea - To’palszthl, & Toopils.th.
A Paddle - Oo’whabbe
A Canoe - Sho’pats, & Shapitz, & Chapas,
The seed of a plant. a pine top - Sateu.
The Teeth. - Chee’cheetsh.
The Tongue. - Choop.
The Eye - Keep’see, & Koss’see.
The Nose - Neets,
A Whale harpoon & rope, - Flooks qua too [indecipherable]
Chimera Menstrosa - Ko’mook.
A Sea Otter skins - Quat’leek, S. Quot’ leek’ ak.

[Page 149]
King Georges Sound.
An Oblong wooden weapon 2 Feet long - Ma’a’ senulsthl.
A Wooden Mask of a huma face - Ho’ kooma.
Seal Skin - Too qua’cumilsthl.
Let me see it - Cha.
A kind of haddock of a Reddish brown Colour - Sooma.
An anchovy, - Ja j Aei’a
A wolf skin dress - Ko ee to’ ak
A woolen garment - Kup’ slee tokozl
Pine bark - Iss’ eu,
Cat skin - Wan’ shee.
A common & also a fine Master - Chas
A little round Wooden cup - O,o’ koomellothl.
A human skull - Kooametre
A skin bladder & to fish with - Keehl,wak’moot
A. concil cap, of mat they wear, - See a’ poop & Tsee a’ poox
A rat by which name they call a squirrel - Summeto
A deers horn - Malsthl.
A Carv’d wooden Bird with rattles, - Kook’ minne
Friendship or a term of Friendship - Na’ hee j, Nehees,
A male - Ja’ kepo.
To sip with a spoon as to sip Whale oil - Kol’ sheek j Kol’ shee al
The name of a thing - Cash.
[Tied?], powder & ore - Quah’ mess
A Herron or its bill - l’ness.
What is your name - A’cha sla fee, chak’loth
What is his name - A’chal la’ha
What is the name of that. - A’kashe’ha J, & A’kashex
A wooden sabre - Hais Musselk
A Bone weapon like a pato, - Ma, eeto’ alulth.
A Fish fin - Kook a’lixo.
A Fishes tail - Nalcha
The horn of an animal - Ma’a’bz thl.
The hoofs of an animal - Ma’a’bz thl
A Bracelet - Kla’ klasen.
None – not any. (having none) - Wik’ ait.
An article to give validity to another word - Ko.
The Name of A birch - Kloolsthl
He gave it me - Pa’chas.
A yellower red fox - Qu’aee, aits’aak
A stone - Mook’a
A small sweet firn root. they eat. - Ahhete.
The strawberry plant - Kish, kill hip.
What is this - Ak’kaka or Akak.
The hand. - Kook E’ lixo.
A Cloud. - Klai’wah’mess
Full satisfied with eating - Ta eitcha.
A carv’d wooden head decorated with hair - Tehoo’quopim.
A Feather - Malsth a’ pait
A carv’d wooden Vison - Moo’ watche
Give me somthing - Klao’kotle
To taste or smell a thing - Klee, kos’meet.
To kill - Seek’skeetl
The tail of an animal - Teceta
To go away - Chook’ wak

[Page 150]
A Vocabulary of the Language at
To bear a thing - Keet’keeshelzoth
A knot - Metzsleo
To loosen, or untie - Kluck’selzsth
Shall I keep it - Whaihai
I’ll go or shall I go - Ya’ast
Iron. - Nai cook ets,
Very large. - Toone
A humming bird. - Sa’senne, or Sasin
A Candle or lamp light - Neit or Nut.
The smoke of a lamp - Neet a pox.
The flower of a plant - Kleet seeh.
Alder tree - Tu weibt
Rasberry bushes - Ka’weebt.
Large wooden Image placed at one end of
the house - Klumma.
Fire. - Eee neek, or E’bek,
Flax stuff they make their Garments with - Aszle mupt.
An expression of piece of friendship
which is often used - Wak’ash.
A House - Maltai
A twig basket - Ka’obs
The roof of a House, or boards, - Ia ook
The Ground - Kous’sama
Land or a Country - Neeh’chu or. Nooh’chu
Excrement - Ats’miss
Straw - Straip’ma
A Chest or large box - He qua nuck
A square wooden drinkg. Cup - Chah’quanna.
A’ with (fastning plank made of bark - Mar’luu
A wooden wedge to split wood. - Klet nut.
A Fish - A min’ulszth
The particular names of two of the
Monstrous Images called Klumma
in one of their houses - Netch’koa & Mat’seeta.
The Nipple - Enema.
The thigh - Enatze
The Arm - A’apso
The face - Es’les lozth
The name of three Men. - Yat, eine quoppe
Ke kalla
Kee hee’ took
The name of a Woman - Sats up cheek.
To go that way - Houa.
What does he say - A Chichilik
The name of the Sound where we lay - Hootha
To Steal - Apt sheetle
To break - Quo u up.
A general Song - Weck. ka.
Thanks - Kai
Give me something - Keita
Give me something in Exchg. - Naima
A spear - At leu, or A’tehatow
Keep it. - Ia wak.
A Woman - Sloots’mar.
A Button or Trinket - Tooquea. or Tooqua
of,or bellonging to me will you barter, for
thg. belong: to me - Co naka.

[Page 151]
King Georges Sound.
One - Isa’week.
Two - Ah’kla
Three - Rat’sitsa
Four - Mo. & Moo
Five - So’chak
Six - Nof’po
Seven - At’sleepoo
Eight - Atta.’quolthl
Nine - Tsawa’quolthl
Ten - Ha ee oo
The Ear - Pa’pai
Forehead - Up’uppaa’ & eek’piukl
Cheek - A’Amiss
Chin - Eek’thlux
Beard - A’paxim
Penis - Rai’mees
Fingers - Koo’quai’nux. or. Koo’.quainuxpo
Nails of the fingers - Chush’Chush
Neck - Tsu’koosnutz
Throat - Seek’utz
Thigh & Leg - Klush’klinne
Foot - K’lak timme
Thumb - Aiah’komeetz
Fore finger - Ko pee ak
Middle finger - Ta ee’ ai
Ring finger - Oat’oo, or ak, kuk’ luk
Little finger - Kash. he’ka
The Sun. Moon or any thing light- Opulszthl
Sky - Nar, or Ee na aht nas
A mountain, or hill - Nooh, chai
Rocks. or the Shore - Mook’see
The little cloak they wear - Klu’tunck
The head - Oo oo mitz
A Bear skin - Kleet hak
Muscles - Klo’chimme
A wooden box they hold their things in Oh’kullik
Coarse matts of bark - h’sleuak, asl or Stai’halszth

A square groov’d peice of bone.
with a handle used to beat bark to
make their garments - Ees’ee
The Moddel of a Canoe - Cha’pitz, koole
A bag made of Matt - Kla pa tuketeel
The Eye brows - A’atchee
A Man - Tan’ass, or Tanas
The hair of the head - Ap’soop
To spit spittle - Tah’miss
To cough - Wa’suk’sheetle
Common moss - Wo’ap
The wind - Okum’ha
A bag made of Seal skin - Chutz, qua’bulst
A kind of Sea weed sticking to the small rocks - Konne’eemis
To sit down - Quao,okl. Tikl putt
To rise up - Kleek eisihl or Quo eloth
To walk - Tsoo kee ats
To run - Kum. mutch, chull

[Page 152]
A Vocabulary of the Language at
To strike or beat. - Kluts’klau
To throw a stone - Tush chutt
To rub, or brighten Metal, or sharpen it- Teilsth’tee
To cleave, or strike hard - Tsooh
The Lips - Ee, thlux’ooth
The Nostrils - Kloosh kooute’klahtamai Mah’katte
A Fur of Sea Otter skin - Eu’mahtame
The largest fish hooks they use. - Chee’maine
A Bow - Moos talle
Dead - Kah sheetle
To shoot with a bow - Kleish’sheetl
An Arrow - Tsee’hatte
A flaxen Garment finely Wove, &
knotted wore as the Common Dress - Katshak. & Katzhak.
A plain Venus shell - Hish’cheene
A bag rattle - Kooh’minne
A plain bone point for striking Seals with.- Ak’u’uk
Attat - Tsua’poox
Bracelet of white beegle beads. - Cheeta’kull’hei’wha.
Things of skin, they wear about the
waist & Neck - Mitle mulsth
Pieces of Copper rold on a bit of wood
like a handle they wear in their Ears - Tai o’pox.
To sneeze - Neesk’sheetl
A combe. - Such’kas
Small feathers, they strew upon their
heads as powder - Seehl
Twisted thongs & sinews they wear about
their Ancles - Wax mukte
Veins under the skin - Kutsee,’oa’taia
The Skin - Took’quick
Pain - Musth’sle
To Sleep - Wa’eetch.
To Yawn -Ashee ark sheitl
To breath or pant - Sep’saimaha
To, weep - Tieh’sheitl
A, Song -Oo’nook
A, Fly - Mats’koot
To, Fly - Ma’took
Snow or hail - Koo’ees, or Quo,’ees
To whistle - A’opk
An, Instrument of two Sticks,
standg: from each other with barbs - Astht, tleck
A scar of a wound - Chee eeakis
Throw it down, or to me - Teehso
No. - Wik.
A wooden Instrument with many Bone
teeth to catch fish with. - Cheet, kooke’kai or Cheekkoaik

[Page 153]
King Georges Sound.

[Page 154]
Weather &c. Monday April 27th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light Airs & Cloudy Weather:
3. Working out of the Sound. Weigh’d the S, Bore: tow’d the Ship out of the Cove & maid Sail; sent c/y boat to assist in towing c/y Discoy: out of the Cove. Light airs & Calms
8 Mod. breezes with rain, & at ½ past squally in St. reef. F & Main T sails, handd Miz. Topsail squally. with hard rain. Split the Jibb & it blew to pieces: fresh Gales & Squally
[AM]
1 Lightning to the No.ward
4 Fresh Gales & squally
5 Brough to. M. T sail to mast for Discy.
6 saw nothing of the Land
7 Bore away set, Miz topsail & unbent the Jibb: Storong Gals: & hazy
9 Stow’d c/y Anchors, Carp: makg: Spare Top Mast, Sailms: puttg: a foot rope in the M.T. sail, bent another Jibb, handd: the Main sail, Strong gales & hazey, In. 2d. reef F.T Sail, handd: Miz T Sail
Discovery in Compy.

[Page 155]
Weather &c. Obs: Tuesday April 28th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Strong gales with hard squalls, Ship’d several heavy seas, upon our decks, Double reef’d the Top sails, handd: Miz. Top sail, got down T.Gt. yards.
6 Do. Wr. with a heavy sea.
8 Strong Gales & Squally
9 Shipt. several heavy seas
12 Strong Gales & heavy squalls & rain handd: Fore top sail
[AM]
2 At ½ past, the Discovery, made a Signal with a light answd; her with another at 3, the Discovery, fired a Gun. Answd: it
4 Mod. & Cloudy
5 Set the F.T sail double reef’d, & made Sail
8 Fresh Gales & Cloudy.
9 Fresh Gails & hazey, got the Sails out of the fore sail [indecipherable] to dry. got the stoves between decks, to air the Ship
12 Sailmakers repairg: the M.T. sail
Fresh breezes & fair, handd: c/y: M. sail
Discovery in Compy.
[Notes in Column]
We were somwhat alarm’d on finding the fish room full of water, but on a little search we both heard & saw c/y water rush in from the Starboard buttock wire we had sprung a leak, there was no passage, thr’o the bulk heads, separating the fish room, nor any [limber?] holes, so that the water could not find its way to the well; the people were put to watch & watch, & hands set about bailing the fish room out; and trimming the buiscutt close aft for fear of its damaging, by Midnight the water was pretty well out of the fish rooms, & a place clear’d, so as to make what came in at the leak go into the well; & we had the satisfaction to find that one hand pump going kept her free.
We were sorry to find our Barometer useless & that by some sudden motion as we supposed the ship had given it such a shake as to let the air into the tube & we are apprehensive that some other instruments in the bread room may also. have receiv’d damage as the Ship is so universally leaky;

[Page 156]
Weather &c. Obsns: Wednesday April 29th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1. Fresh Gales & fair Wr.

2. out 2d. reef Main Top sail

4 Do Wr.
6 Fresh Gales & hazey Wr.
7 Close reef’d the topsails
8 Do, & Cloudy
10 Strong gales & Squally wh: rain
12 Fresh Gales & hazey.
[AM]
4 Fresh Gales & sqeally with rain
5 Out 2d. & 3d. reefs. Main Top sail
6 Squally with rain
7 Out 3d reef F Top sail
8 Fresh Gales & Cloudy
9 Fresh Gales & squally wh. hail & rain
11 Set the Main sail & Miz. T sail
12 Fresh Gales & squally

[Page 157]
Weather &c. Obsns: Thursday April 30th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh Gales with flying Showers
3 Squally, In 2d. reef M. Top Sail & handed Miz Top Sail
4 Do. Wr.
7 Do. Wr:
8 More Moderate
12 Fresh Gales & Squally with rain handed the Main sail
[AM]
4 Mod. & Cloudy Wr: out 2d: reef
5 Main T. Sail, & got the M.T.Gt. Yards across, Light Breezes & fr.
8 Light Breezes & fair Wr.
9 Out all reef’s got the F T. Gt. yards across & set the M. sail, Carptrs. making a spare Top mast. Sail makers repairg. the M. sail
12 Mod. Breezes & fine Wr.

[Page 158]
Weather &c. Friday May 1st; 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod: breezes with Cloudy Wr:
4 Do, & fair
6 Do, with showers of rain
8 Do, Wr:
12 Do. & Cloudy
[AM]
3 Hard showers of rain
4 Do Wr:
6 Hard rain
8 Light breezes & Cloudy
10 Squally with rain saw a swan
11 People Empd: workg: up Junk
12 Carptrs: making spare T. mast Do, Wr.
Discovery in Compy.

[Page 159]
Weather &c. Saturday May 2d: 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod: breezes & fine Wr:
4 Do, with Showers of hail & Sleet
6 Mod. breezes & fine Wr:
8 Fresh breezes & squally, In 1st. reef
9 Top sails, & handed the M. sail
12 Do. Wr:
[AM]
4 Fair Wr:
8 Squally with hail & sleet
9 Saw some Sea Lyons & flocks of Birds

[Page 160]
Saturday May the 2d, Continued
At ½ past 7. saw the Land bearing from N. ½ E to ENE, 12 Leags. or more distant, we again saw it at ½ past 2 from NbW. to NEbN, & at ½ past three the land extended from NbW ¾ W. to ESE the nearest part dist 6 Leag. at this time we were abreast of an Inlet the N. part of which bore ENE ½ E, as the day advanc’d & we approach’d nearer, we observed that to the Noward of this Inlet it was broken & had appearances of many harbours or shelter’d places, every 3 or 4 Leag; & at ½ past 11 we were abreast of a group of small Islands lying under the land a little to the Southward of the South point of a large bay, that had an inlet in it running to the Nortwd:, To the No.ward of this bay, which is also the Northernmost point, insight, a Cape projects it self a good way into the sea, which is made very remarkable from a beautiful circular Mountain that rises over it or rather within it. To avoid confusion I shall distinguish this Cape, Mountain & bay, by adding the letter A with them from others, & in the same manner proceed along the Coast. at noon Cape A bore N. 32 °:W the mountain A N. 15 W. the No point of the Group of Isles No. 54 E, in the above inlet in bay A No. 5 Et,
We shall place these Islands in Lat. 56. 48: Cape A. in Lat 57. 4’, Longd: 224° 7’ East, From the land seen in the evening to Cape A the direction of the Coast is NWbW ½ W, & SEbE ½ E, by Compass, the Summit of the mountain is cover’d with snow as are all the high hills on the Coast, but the lower grounds are free, & cloathed with wood to the waters edge; in the large bay A & its inlet the land appeared of a moderate height by the sea extending into rising hills & valleys as far as the eye could reach; & not so high broken or rugged as the sea coast to the Southwd: of it, & which we have Observ’d had so many appearances of harbours.
Tschirikow is said by Muller to have made this Coast & to have anchord off it in 56° Lat. & there he found it rocky. steep & free from Islands lying off it, & no appearances of harbours, we we can neither add to his testamony nor detract from it, as we only saw that part at a distance; but it is reasonable to suppose him right, as he must have been accurate & carefull in keeping his reckoning, we only suppose him out 2 ° in Longitude, & by which Quantity he places that part of the Coast too far to the West. whilst it was the conversation of the Capt to put into the first harbour, to repair our leak, we were in hopes it might be hear abouts,

[Page 161]
Saturday May the 2d, Continued
and that providence could lead to us some of the 14 Russians, which Tchirikow was Obliged to leave behind, but as the leak became of little consequence, & the wind favorable to proceed in examining the Coast, we did not stop; humanity now must therefore make one wish that if any of them are living, they may never know of Such Ships as ours being on the Coast, nor so cruelly flatter’d with hopes of a return to their Native Country.

[Page 162]
Weather &c. Sunday May: 3d: 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes with rain
3 Fair Wr:
4 Do. Wr.
8 Mod. & fair. hauld up the Courses & Shortned Sail
12 Mod. breezes & fine Wr:
[AM]
2 Made sail
4 Fair Wr:
8 Fresh breezes & fair Wr:
10 Fine pleasant Wr: inclinable to Calm hoisted out the Joly boat & sent her onboard the Discovery, Jolly boat return’d, hoisted her in, fine Wr:
Discovery in Co.
[Notes in column]
From Cape A the coast takes a NNW direction; for about six Leagues, at that distance or in Lat 57°:.22’ is another bay with Islands in the entrance & an arm of this bay tended to the Southd: which may possibly meet the Inlet in the bay A & so make Cape &:mount A an Island, at 8, PM. Cape A SEbE ½, the above bay No.77E a point to the North west No. 35 between this bay & point is an other bay & an Island seen off without this, was land seen at a very great distance. 4. AM, the point set at 8. to the NW. bore N73E, the Mountain A. S,77°E, the entrance of a deep sound (B) (not before) N.26E & the farthest point Cape E. N.34W Dist 8 or 9 Leagues, the most advanc’d land to the No-ward N.55W which appearing of an immense height we take to be Mount. Elias. the mount distance from

[Page 163]
Sunday May 3d. Continued
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
From the bay in 57° 22’ to Cape C, the direction of the Coast (excep a little to the Southward of the sound, when it is more northerly) is NWbW ½ W. & SEbE ½ E. the sound is about 3 Leags wide, & extends in a NNW direction, farther than we could see, the land to the Northwd: of the Sound, is composed of a more uniform ridge of snowy Mountains, rising nearer the sea, then what is to the Southwd: a few patches that are free from snow, are seen cover’d with wood.

[Page 164]
Weather &c. Monday May 4th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light airs & Cloudy.
4 Do, Wr:
8 Do, Wr:
12 Do, Wr:
[AM]
2 A swell from the Southwd:
4 Do. Wr:
7 A swell from the SE
8 pleasant Wr: Tkd. Ship at ¼ past 8.
10 People Empd: picking Oakum & Seawing Yarns, Sailmks: repaig the F.T sail, Do, Wr.
[Notes in column]
At 8. the Western extreem of the land. (which appears as a high Mountain & which we suppose to be Mount Elias) N44W. the extreams of the Sound (B) N60E, tkd East. Extreams S.85E, dist from the neerest land 6 Leagues.
At 4AM the mountain set last night N28W. the NW point of the sound (B) N52E. dist of Shore 10 or 12 Leags. at 8 the western Extms: being a Mountain exceeding for height any we had yet seen. which we suppose must be the true Mount Elias in mullers map, which we shall call bore N34 ½ W, the peaked mount C N24 ½ E, at noon mount Elias N40W. Mount E, N28E. the Extrm: of the land N50W. & N.57.E which last is the NW point of the sound (B) dist. 10, or 12 Leags.
The mountain as far as we can to the WNW. continue in the same ridge all covered with snow down to the very waters edge, but the most remarkabe circumstance is that we do not perceive the least rising beyond these mountains, or rather over the valley between Mountains some of which are not very high, which might make us suppose that either the Sound (B) runs behind them, or that their is Water & not land to Eastward of them.

[Page 165]
Weather &c. Tuesday May 5th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & fine Wr: a number of Wales Seals & flocks of birds about.
4 Do, Wr:
7 Bore down to the Discovery.
8 Do, Wr:
12 Light breezes & hazey.
[AM]
4 Light breezes & fine Wr:
5 Tkd. Ship
8 Fair & pleasant Wr:
10 People Empd: as Yesterday
12 Do. Wr.
Discovery in Compy:
[Notes in Column]
Mount St. Elias N59°.W. the Mount C N45Et. about 9 Leag. & the Eastermost land insight No.73Et
Mount Elias NW ¾ W the Mount C. NEbN. & the Easternmost land in sight NEbE ½ E.
The West most land in sight N43W. the Etmost N46°:.E the Mount C N39E.
Cape St. Elias N60W the Mount C N43 ½ Et,

[Page 166]
Weather &c. Wednesday May 6th: 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & fine Wr:
4 Do Wr:
7 Tkd: Ship
8 Do, Wr:
12 Light Airs & fine Wr:
[AM]
7 Fair Wr.
8 Do Wr,
9 Thick hazey Wr.
10 Back’d the Mizn. T sail for the Discovery, Unbent the F.T. Sail & bent another
Light breezes & fair Wr:
[Notes in Column]
Mount St. Elias N61W & Mount © N58Et. off Shore 4 Leagues
Mount St. Elias NWbN. & Mount © NEbE ½ E.
Mount St. Elias N57.W & Mount © N63 ½ E.
At noon Mt. St. Elias N54 ½ E Mt: © N82 Et, the Wtermost land in sight WbN. distance off shore 4 Leagues.

[Page 167]
Weather &c. Thursday May 7th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light Airs & fine Wr.
2 Soundd: 77. fatms: Muddy bottom
3 Set up the F &F.T. mast rigging
4 Do. Wr.
[AM]
10 Soundd: 82 fatms: Muddy bottom, hoisted out a boat & sent her on bor’d the Discovery
Discovery in Compy:
[Notes in Column]
At. 4. the Westermost land insight No 70 ½ W. Mount St. Elias N56W & Mt: (©) N.30 ½ E off shore 5 Leag. At 8. Mount St. Elias N.52W. & mount © N.80E off. shore 5 Leagues.
At. 12. Mount St. Elias NW ½ W. At 4. AM. Mount St: Elias N44 ½ W. the West Extms; N23 ½ W.& Mount (©) N82Et. Et. most point S.88E off shore 6 Leags. At 6.AM. a bay to the West of which lies a small Island.
Mount © whose bearings have been so often taken & which is so Conspicuous from its being peak’d, & also the highest of the ridge [of That is?] Extg. from the sound to the NW. is in Latd. 58.50 No. & Longd. 221°: 54’Et. the Coast in that Lat. projects out, but being rounded, does not make any conspicuous point except when to the SE at which time I have Call’d it Cape © its Longd: is 221°.30’.E. the the direction of the Coast from the sound to the Bay, set at noon is WNW, & ESE by Compass from this bay it tends WbS ½ South.

[Page 168]
Weather &c. Friday May 8th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & pleasant Wr:
2 a long swell from the SE. hoisted the Boat in
4 Do, Wr:
6 Light airs inclinable to calm
8 Light Airs & fair.
12 Light Breezes & fair
[AM]
4 Do Wr:
8 Light Breezes & fair Wr:
10 Empd: working up Junk
11 Tkd: Ship
12 Do, Wr:
[Notes in Column]
Mount St. Elias N25 ½ W the Western Extms: in sight N.74 ½ W dist. off shore 5 Leag.
Mount Elias N25W. the Western Extms. N69W, the Eastn: Extm: N89E distance off Shore, 6 Leags. an appearance of a Bay bearg: N6E ½ E & to the NNW. the coast fall’s back to the No ward.
The Wtermost land in sight NWbN ¾ N.
Mount Elias N2W. west part of the land in sight N56W. off shore 7 Leagues.
The Gentlemen of the Discovery were shooting at sea birds about us but we perceiv’d they had little success. the birds being very wild
Mt. Elias N25W. Wtern Extm. S58W. dist off shore 10 or 12 Leagues.

[Page 169]
Weather &c. Saturday May 9th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & fair Wr:
4 Do, Wr.
7 taken aback Soundd: ground at 115 fathm: muddy bottom., Do. Wr:
9 Tkd: Ship
12 Calm & fine Wr:
[AM]
1 Hazey.
3 Sounded, no Ground at 120 fathm.
4 Do, Wr.
7 Sounded no Ground at 120 fath.
8 Hazey Wr.
10 Got all the Chest up & cleand between decks
12 Light airs & fine Wr.
[Notes in Column]
The Wt. Extm: N63W. Mount St. Elias No & the East Extm: No. 40 East
Mount St Elias N15E the Western Extm: N45°:. West
Mount St. Elias N21E the Western Extm: NWbW ½ W. off Shore 6 Leag
The Wt. Extm: appearing as an Island N74 ½ W. Mount Elias N22E dist off shore 7. or 8 Leagues.

[Page 170]
Saturday May 9th, Continued.
(After Noon) There is much the appearance of a deep inlet to the N.W Mount St. Elias, not only the highest mountain on this Coast, but perhaps the highest on the Western coast of North America, is in Latde: 60°., 18.N, & Longitude 219° Et; the base of this mountain is on the ridge of the high. mountain stretching from the Sound to the Westward of this Mount; with this difference that from the Sound to the Bay whose bearings was taken the 7th. at noon, & is nearly in Latde: 59.23No. & Long 201 East the ridge rises from the sea coast, from thence to mount Elias, it continuing farther in Land, & still farther to the westward of this mount. The whole was covered with Snow, & that in all probability is perpetual, the summer heat not perhaps melting more than is accumulated in the winter, but beyond the Valley’s between the Mountains, we never saw any back Country; on the 8th. & 9th. when we were passing the ridge which extends farther back we were not sufficiently near to observe the nature of the Cove close to the sea, only that we could as we came nearer make it black from whence we conclude, that it is free from Snow, & wooded in some parts from the foot of the ridge down to these were sometimes immence spaces made uniformly level by the snow.

[Page 171]
Weather &c. Sunday May 10th: 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light Breezes & hazey.
4 Do Wr:
12 Light Breezes & hazey.
[AM]
2 Calm at times
3 Soundd: no ground at 110 fathms:
4 Do, Wr:
12 Fine pleasant Wr;
[Notes in column]
PM at 4. The Wtmost land insight (supposed an Island at noon) N39W. Mount St. Elias N29Et. at 8 more land appearing to the west like a group of Islands from N74W. to S.85W. the East Extm: N42E. the body of the land set at 4, as the west land No.60W.
AM at 8, what at 8PM. we took for a group of Islands is only one Island extending from S.71 ½ W. to N76W. the So. part making in a high bluff hill., To avoid confusion will call this Island (E) & what we imagind to be an Island yesterday Noon which we now are less sure, wether it is so or only joining to the main & making a neck of land. & making a neck of land. & shall be call’d point (E) round which is a bay distinguish’d by bay (E) at Noon we saw the Extm: of Isle (E) N74W. & So.62W. a small rock to the So therd of the Isle (160W) the NW point (E) N53W. & the extm: of the Continent in sight N72 ½ W. & N76 Et, off shore 5 Leagues.

[Page 172]
Weather &c. Monday May 11th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light Airs & fair, a great many whales & Seals about the Ship
4 Light Airs & fair
8 Do. Wr:
10 Calm Soundd: 35st. & 36d. fathms:
12 Tkd. Ship Soundd: 37 fathm.
[AM]
2 Soundd: 32 fath. Lost a deep sea lead & line, Soundd: 27. fathm:
4 Light breezes & hazey.
8 Light Airs & fair Wr. set the Main & main top mast riggin up.
12 Calm & fair Wr;

[Page 173]
Monday May 11th. Continued
At this time, the Bluff point in the So. part of Isle (E) S.56W. the N.Extm: N72Wt. & Point (E) N40W. we were about 2 Leags; from the land at 6 we had 43 fathm; Muddy bottom, the Extm: of the Isle (E) S47W to N70W. we saw two rocks in the Middle of the passage between point (E) & the No end of the Isle (E) which bore N68W. point (E) N32W. off shore 2 Leags. At midnight the bluff point So39W, & point (E) N19Et, at 1. had 37 fathm: &c. as Pr. Log.
AM, at 4, The Island (E) from So.40W, to N52W, the two rocks N36W. & point (E) NbE, the Capt. would have gone thr’o the passage close to the rocks, had not the wind came scant to sail thro; we therefore at ½ past 4 we bore up in order to sail round the So. end of Isle (E), At noon the Bluff point S42W. the rocks of the So end of it So39W. the two rocks in the Channel N3W. & point (E) N20Et. the East side of this Island runs in the direction SbE & NbW, it extends about 24 miles in Latd. the South Extremity being in 59°.48’, & Longde: 215°,0’Et, to the Eastwd: of its Northern point, is a neck of land or the point (E) in Latd: 60° 5’, forming between them a passage about 5 leags: broad, with two rocks in the middle, beyond this passage is a deep Bay extending to the NE point of (E) in the bottom of which appear’d places nearer detach’d than the main which are probably Islands.
On the 8th, at 8. PM I have remark’d that there was an appearance of a deep Bay, which will be in about the Latd: of 59°.40’. Longde: 199 ¾° Et, from that bay to point (E) the direction of the Coast is WbS ½ S. & except there may be in this & in the bay in 59°.23’ Latde., there are no other appearances of any shelter’d places between the sound (B) & point (E) & from the sound to these bays we are able to say there are no harbours, but to the No:ward of these bays, till we got sight of the Island (E) that is during the 8th. & 9th. we were too distant from the coast, to speak with precision; at present the appearances of the Country are very difft: from that we have pass’d, The Island we are off is in many parts wooded, as is also the low land near the Sea; the mountains back in the Country still continue cover’d with snow but they form double mountains as far back as the Eye can go, & are not in a regular ridge, as are the mountains some way to the Westwd: & a considerable distance to the SEt. of mount St Elias: Captn: Cook went onshore on this Island, they found it difficult to proceed in the Country from the steepness of its shores, had a tolerable soil on it, tho in general a barren spot, there were signs of natives being there, but a fox was the only Animal they beheld; the Discovery’s Gentn: entertain’d themselves with fowling in the Boats & shot an Albatross, they judg’d from the wildness of the sea birds, that the inhabitants were numerous, it may be naturally supposed that Muller’s Account of Bearings expedition was often read & examin’d & also a short account of later Russian neighbours publi-

[Page 174]
Monday May the 11th. Continued.
publish’d under the inspection of Dr: Matty with what is call’d an accurate Map affixd, tending to prove that [he?] brings Ideas of a continued continent, extending from the Latde: we are now in to the SW. is false; we doubtless hope to find this last account true, & the broken land raises our expectations that it will be so; but with all our pains we are not able to reconcile Mullers account & his chart of where Bearing landed either with one another or with what we have Observ’d; those who are guided by the Map in preference to the account suppose this to be the Island he anchor’d off & the bay to be that where he sent Steller & his Master, but as the Map is not reconcileable in the smallest degree (excepting Mount Elias being tolerably well fix’d.) of which there is no mention in the publish’d Account,) to what we have seen it would seem the justest to attend to some facts in the account, which says that Com. Bearing got sight of the coast in 5S, ½ N & in two days after having [indecipherable] variable breezes he anchor’d under an Island near the land &c. now the coast in that Latd: is distant from this Island & bay 70 Leags. therefore on any suppositions he must have sailed 50 or 60 Leags. in these two days, with light & variable winds; which is certainly improbable; it is therefore more likely, that he anchord off an Island in the bay which we place in 59°. 23’ or in that of 59.40, & we were too far distant from the latter, to pretend to say that there might not be Islands on it; on the whole it proves how dificult it is to mention nautical remarks that shall be useful & at the same time not intolerably tiresome to any other but to him who wants to compare them with the realities & with out Behring’s own remarks or drafts, it is endless to try to reconcile his Discoveries with ours; Behring as well as Tchiri’kow place the Continent in 58 ½ two degrees too far to the west which is only 22 Leags wrong an inconsiderable distance. –

[Page 175]
Weather &c. Tuesday May 12th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light Airs & fine Wr: hoisted in the Cutter, a great number of Whales & seals about the ship.
4 Do. Wr:
9 Soundd: 30 fathm: Muddy bottom
11 Soundd: no Ground at 30 faths:
12 Mod. breezes & Cloudy. Soundd: no Ground 40 fathms:
[AM]
4 Fresh breezes & hazey.
7 Brought too the M.T. sail to the Mast & soundd: 53 fatm: Muddy bottom at 8 Cloudy Wr. bore away.
12 Fresh Breezes & Cloudy
[Notes in Column]
PM. at ½ past 7. We were abreast of the So end of Isle (E) & had 25 fathm: muddy bottom, about 1 ½ Mile to the So: ward. is a remarkable rock standing up like a pillar with a level top; to the SSW. of this rock for 2 miles runs sunken rocks over which the sea breaks, we now saw the main land opening with rock bearing N60°W. at the same time the Bluff head N12W. about 4 Miles dist. we could not see to the No. it being hazey in that Quarter we only Observ’d that the western end of the Isle, is in the same direction of the Coast, & that it is not more than 9 Miles from E to W.
AM a little before 5 the No extreem of the land N69 West & the So most part of the Island (E) in sight S76E; & what looks like a high round Island from N22W to N2 East At 8, the round Isle from N to N28E.

[Page 176]
Tuesday May the 12th. Continued
dist 6 or 7 Leags; This Island lies to the WNW. 6 Leags: off the No. end of Isle (E) & between them is an entrance into the bay (E) which we now perceive to run deep into the Country in the direction NNE. at 10, the weather clear’d away a little, & we saw the land extending to the WSW. & the points of what seem an extensive bay or sound. N45W, & N.
At Noon the land, (set at 10 WSW) making the SE point of a large opening. bearing West 5 Leag. the western extremity insight S40W. about 12 or 13 Leags; west point of the bay or sound N. & from the Bay (E) to the point bearing N, the land runs into deep sounds & inlets, or is however very broken, from that point to the point of the opening its direction is SWbW. & NEbE & is a pretty strait shore, The snowy Mountains are not in such connected ridges as before; & the sea coast which is tolerably high has patches free from snow, & which were always well wooded: we have D. Matty’s map of the Northern Archipelago constantly in our hands, expecting every opening to the northwd: will afford us an opportunity to separate the Continents, & to enable us to reach the 65° of Latd. where we understand we are to accurately to examine every inlet; we are kept in a constant suspense every new point of land rising to the So.ward damps our hope, till again revived by some fresh opening to the Northward. –

[Page 177]
Weather &c. Wednesday 13th., May, 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh Breezes & Cloudy Wr:
4 Fresh breezes & thick hazey Wr.
11 Fresh breezes & thick hazey Wr.
[AM]
12 Thick hazey Wr:
[Notes in Column]
At ½ past 12, bore up for the large opening set at noon W. at 2 the SE point of the opening N41W. the land on the western side from N72W. to So. 39W. distant 2 miles from the Eastern & nearest shore, At 4, it came on very thick hazey & nasty Weather, which made it unsafe to proceed farther up this inlet, we there fore hauld round for a bay on the East shore, whose outer points bear N34W & 34 Et. about 3 miles apart, near the middle of the entrance inclining more to the Northern: side is a Cluster of rocks; & with in the South point is a Cove, into which we luff’d up & anchor’d at ½ past 5, in 8 faths: muddy bottom. The entrance of the bay extending from S72W. to N50W. the middle of the rocks NWbN. 1/3d of a mile from the bottom of the Cove –

[Page 178]
Wednesday May 13th, Continued
Immediatly on anchoring. Mr: Gore went in a boat to shoot Ducks curlews & other water fowl which we saw in great numbers about the rocks in the entrance, & I went to the Beach to haul the sun, but our tackling was too rotten to catch fish; the boat return’d on board & Mr. Gore was follow’d by some Canoes who paddled gently after him towards the ship, but were very fearful of approaching too near, but they landed & soon after came & row’d round the ship, sung & danced much the same as the Natives in King George’s sound; some of them stood up extending their arms at right angles to their bodys, over their heads & cross ways; we judged all these to be signs of peace and meant to show that they had no conceal’d weapons, for when they first pull’d after our boat, many of them had wooden armour round their bodies & were well arm’d with spears; although we answerd all their signals of peace yet they would not come close along side, & on our offering them some trifles they threw a dart into the ship (first desiring us to stand aside & taking of its point) to tye them to; but whilst one of the boats staid by us another went to the Discovery, & we saw them along side trading with them; they left us at dusk, One circumstance should not be forgot, that they held up, a rude stick with a few feathers tied to to it which emblem however unlike the Calumut or pipe of peace of the north American Indian was here doubtless meant to answer the same purpose. –
At, 10h we began to heave up our anchor, the ground was so holding that we broke our [mysenger?]; by ½ past we got under way & made sail, the weather was so thick & hazey, that we saw but a little dist: at noon when the extreams of the bay we have left. bore N25E & So.13E about 3 mile from the NWt. part. the westermost Island in sight SWbW.

[Page 179]
Sandwich Sound.
Thursday. May 14th. 1778.
The weather became still more hazey & attended with rain, whenever it somewhat clear’d away we could see high land in different direction’s but divided by large openings; to the NW. it was the freest from land, & we did not like to give over our hopes of Sailing thr’o Behrings continent; we steer’d since noon 7. miles on a NW. & 11 miles on a NNW. Course, with the wind at E. & ESE. which brought us by ½ past 3 abreast of a pleasant looking Island, hardly two miles in circuit & well wooded; the body of it bore NEbN. & we were about 3 miles from it; the wind increas’d & oblig’d us to reef, & to get down T.Gt.yards we had also heavy showers of hail & Sleet, we haul’d round this Island, & steer’d NbW, No. & close upon a wind (which was still at ESE,), as in these directions the openings appear’d most favourable; but we now perceived that there was more land to the No:ward. than in any other direction, we saw also broken land to the Westwd: the weather on every account was too bad to run in the night amongst such uncertain openings, for it must have occurred to every one that hazey weather makes every valley, have the appearance of a passage; the Captn: therefore was looking to which part he should steer in order to anchor for the Night; to the No.ward there were appearances of deep bays, but to go into them was running to leeward; we had pass’d a little to the NE, of the above Island, what had the appearance of a very snug Cove. to this we were resolv’d to work up, & after taking a second reef in our. T sails, we hauld close upon a wind & steer’d towards it, at ½ past 5. we were abreast of the Cove into which we work’d carrying regular soundings from 25 to 6 faths:, & at ¼ past 8 we anchord in 8 faths: with the Best Bower the SW point of the Cove WSW. & the NE point N ¾ E, off shore ½ a mile.
Before it was dark two cover’d boats came to us from round the SW: corner, one had two men in it, the other only one, the single canoe was precisely the shape & size of what I have seen amongst the Esquimaux, & only differing from the figure of the Groenland Kaiacks, in Crantz’s history that the hole wherein the man sits is not just in the middle, but nearer to the after part, in both this part is the widest & tapers to

[Page 180]
1778 Sandwich Sound.
May. 14th. Each end, surrounded with a hoop to which part of the mens dress is fastned wh’o therefore may be said to make a part of the boat; they are the same materials, being composed of a frame of slight timbers lash’d to gather with sinews & whale bones, & the whole cover’d with whale or seal skin; the one with two men in it; differed only in having two circular holes at about 1/3d. the distance from each end.
The men had on furr jackets & over that one made of the guts of sea animals; their Caps were the same as we saw yesterday & like those at King Georges Sound: These came along side without much hesitation & after receiving a few beads, went away well satisfied, & made motions that they should return tomorrow, which they accordingly did very early, accompanied, as I should suppose, by the whole tribe, they were all in their cover’d [Slaiacks?] except one open boat that held about a dozen people; these have timbers but no planks, instead of which are skins covering the timbers: These are also on the same principle as the large boats of the Greenlanders, differing a meer trifle in the shape, the middle part rising a little & having a peculiar curvature at the bow: alth’o they came along side after singing & cutting capers those in the large boat would not venture into the ship without somebody in their [boat?] They soon convinc’d us they were arrant thieves; for this vice we might easily have forgiven them; as it was only what all the nations we met with were guilty of, but in these it was accompanied with impudence, & a refusal to render back, what we found out they had stolen, they also shew’d a spirit that was still more dangerous & [instant?] it in design’s that however bold they shew’d them to be, & the contemptuous light in which they held us, was yet too laughable & ridiculous to raise our indignation, the first was no less an attempt than to take possession of the Discovery; we observ’d very soon after (all excepting two boats that stop’d at the Discovery) they had been along side, that on some conversation passing between one fat man who appeard as acting in the large boat, & a man wh’o had come from the Discovery, all the boats left us & went to her; we concluded that some article of trade had been seen onboard there, which engaged their fancy, & that they left us for a better market: but in

[Page 181]
1778. Sandwich Sound.
May. 14th. this we were deceived, for the boats that had stop’d by the Discovery, finding only two young gentlemen upon deck, judged, I suppose, that there were not many more; they sent therefore intelligence of this, & after they had collected together, those onboard began with great composure to hand out of the ship whatever was moveable, & upon a young. Gentleman stopping one of them from handing out a boats rudder, he with great deliberation took a dagger or knife from under his jacket, fix’d the string which is fasten’d to the handle round his wrist, & by force accomplish’d this theft; others also arm’d themselves; however in a very short time the men between decks were call’d out, who coming up with Cutlasses, those on board immediately made known to their comrades their mistake, & by making motions with their arms were telling them the length of the Cutlasses, on this they all got into their Canoes & paddled away, we observ’d them coming again towards us; in this interval our master had been sent to examine round apeak of land up in the bight of the Cove, & on the chief’s getting intelligence of this; he directly set out with all his little fleet; as our people had no arms we were going to send a boat arm’d to the master, although we had little apprehension not knowing any thing of their attempt on the Discovery but we were eased of any further trouble by seeing the Cutter come round the point in their return, before the Kaiacks had got there; the old chief did not chuse to give over all hopes of taking a prize, for no sooner had the men left the Cutter, excepting two to take care of her, then the Chief jump’d more nimbly than his fat bulk promis’d into the boat, cast off her painter & handed it into his boat, he was followed by two or three other men who with spears kept our men from hindering what was doing, we had muskets & Cutlasses upon deck & in an instant some of them presented at the Indians, who either knowing their effects, (yet this is hardly credible, or surely they would not have made their attempt,) or [seeing?] us in a great bustle, left the cutter, & the old chief with the greatest composure beckond to us to lay down our arms, & he to mollify us began to dance & sing, stripping himself naked & throwing round him a garment with pieces of hoof’s, that made anoise as he shook it about, & afterwards continued trading with us as if nothing had happned; on the

[Page 182]
1778 Sandwich Sound
May 21st,, triangle will be nearly in 61°N.& points to the inlet that Mr: Gore examined & which he saw as high as 61°:.10’; on the east, or the perpendicular, side there are three deep bay’s or Inlets at pretty nearly equal distances from one another, the south where we first anchor’d tending away to the EbN, the 2d and the widest. to the Eastwd:, & the third, round the south point of which is snug corner cove, trends to the ENE; near the vertex are Islands, close to which was our Northernmost anchoring ground, & the main there abouts is broken into smaller bays. – On the hypothenuse side, or western coast of the bay, are the group of Islands near the middle; to the NW of which is a very deep inlet: In the middle of the south side or base, is the Island (F) & the two passages which it makes into this sound, which I shall call the Eastern & western passages; the Course into the sound by the eastern one is due No. it is 3 leagues broad & form’d by the NE point of the Isle (F), the opposite point of the main bears due East from it, the length of this passage can hardly be said to be of any distce: as we are no sooner in it than in the sound; the middle of this eastern passage is in Lat. 60°. 15’ No & Longde: 213°. 0’ E; but the western passage is very different, extending some way in length, & haveing the same direction that the Island (F) has, because the coast opposite the Island takes a like direction, & which is NEbN ½ E about 17. Leags. the distance from this Island to the main is generally six leagues, the entrance in this west passage to the sound is in 59°48’ Lat. & 211°, 40’, Et Longde: it is form’d by the SW. part of Isle (F) & a high Island, with another, & two smaller ones that stretch in an East line from the main, & a narrow’s this entrance to less than 3 Leags; to the No. ward of this passage is what I have call’d flat Island.
The very descriptions that I have already given will serve to give an Idea of the appearance of the land about this Sound; when one only adds that it is universally mountainous & cover’d with snow; on the lesser hills, & to a tolerable distance on the sides of the mountains, one perceives the Country to be wooded; the Islands in the Sound are Clear of snow; but those in the Wt.ern entrance are very high & coverd with it; the large Island (F) which I’ have mentioned as being about 16. or 17. Leag in a north Eastern direction is only 4 Leag broad; it is composed of an uniform & very high ridge of snowy Mountains; extending from one and to the other, & the snow remaind close down to the water side. -

[Page 183]
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]

[Page 184]
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]

[Page 185]
Weather &c. Thursday May 21 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
4 Light breezes & small rain
8 Do. Wr:
12 Do. Wr:
[AM]
4 Light airs inclinable to Calm
6 a number of Whales & flocks of birds about the Ship
8 Light breezes & fair Wr:
12 Fresh breezes
[Notes in Column]
the SW part of Isl (F) N86.E & the Body of the high Island NbE ¾ E dist off. shore 2 or 3 Leagues.
At, 8, AM, the SW. part of the Island (F) N50E high Island N24E & the SW, & extream in sight S.54W Noon, the SW. part of the Island (F) N43E, the Wt. Extm: S54 ½ W. dist 6 or 7. Leags: the land to the Wt:ward is a continued ridg of high mountains riseing from the sea side & cover’d with snow, the rocks are barren.

[Page 186]
Weather &c. Friday May 22d. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod breezes & fair
4 Light breezes & fair Wr:
6 a great quantity of drift wood & rock weed pass’d us
8 Do. Wr: in 1st. reef T sails
12 Do. Wr:
[AM]
2 back’d the mizn: T sail for Discy:
3 Fill’d the mizn. Top sail
4 Fresh breezes
5 in 2d. reef Mizn. T sail
6 Fresh Gales in 2d. reef F.T. Sail & handd: Mizn: T sail
8 Fresh gales, & squally, In 2d. Main. T sail, & down T. Gt. yards
10 Close reeft the, T sail & handd, fore Top sail,
12 Set the F.T sail. Fresh Gales & Cloudy
[Notes in Column]
Extm: of the land in sight S54W. to N19 ½ E of shore about 4 Leags.
Another point of land opening with the west Extm: set at 6 o clock S61W. East Extm: N18E. & the rocky Island set at noon due No. of shore 5 or 6 Leags
Extms: of the land in sight from N7.W. to S31°:W. off. shore about 10 Leags: at 9 Extm. of the land in sight from NWbW. To N ½ W. the nearest land NWbN. 9 or 10. Leag at 10, saw the land bearing. SW.
At noon Extm: of the land to the So.ward from S.W ½ W. to WSW. the nearest land to the No ward, NW. dist: about 12 Leag. we saw no land in the space between WSW. & NW.

[Page 187]
Weather &c. Saturday May 23d: 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & Cloudy Wr:
3 Modt: out 3 & 2d, reefs F. & M.T. & set the Mizn. T. sail, fair Wr:
6 Tkd. Ship
8 Mod, breezes & Cloudy
[AM]
1 Fresh gales handd: Mizn. T. sail
2 Set the Mizen T, sail
4 Do. Wr:
8 Fresh Gales & fair, Cleand between decks & made fires, to air Ship
11 Tkd, Ship
12 Fresh breezes & fair.
[Notes in Column]
At 4 PM, the land to the southwd: appear’d like a detach’d Island & is of a mod. height & almost free from snow body of the Island W. ¾ S, I shall call it (H) Island, at 6 saw more land to the SW. at 8 the above Isle (H) its Extm: from S64W. to S.78W. about 6 Leag. dist. the Nomost land NNW.
Extm: of the No.ern land N.11.E & S.76W 6 Leag. at 11. Extm. of the land from N23E to S60W, of shore 4 Leags, At noon saw more land to the Soward, the Extm. as set from the deck from N.21E to S.53W. of shore 5 or 6 Leag. this coast we were abreast of on the 21st. at noon being now about 16 Leags. farther to the westwd: its appearances the same.

[Page 188]
Weather &c. Sunday May 24th, 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh Gales & fair Wr.
4 Do. Wr:
6 Hazey Wr:
12 Light breezes & Cloudy.
[AM]
2 out reefs & got T.Gt: yards up.
4 Do, Wr,
6 Light breezes & fair Wr.
8 Do Wr:
12 Light airs & fine Wr:
[Notes in Column]
4 P.M. Extms: of the Noern land N76 West to N7.E, at 8 PM the So. part of Isle (H) which makes a bluff cape N.30 ½ W. dist 8 Leags:
at 4 AM Extms: Isle (H) S.75W. & S.48W. & land bearing SSW ¾ W. at 8AM, The Soermost land S12 ½ W. & bluff, cape of Isle (H) S65W, dist 3 Leags: Extms: of (H) Island S61°:W to N78W. which we make the No. land & land extending from the back of the Island as far to the southwd: as S.6W. Dist 14. Or 16 Leags: This very far distant land is entirely cover’d with snow, The Island (H) is of a mod. height, & what is singular has not, as we can see any wood upon it; it looks of a brown colour of a barren soil, as there is yet a great space to the NW. where we have seen no land, we do not like to give up all hopes of braking thr’o this as we hope imaginary continent although this high & snowy land to the southward damps ones expectations, & our maps are perfectly irreconculable to any thing that we have

[Page 189]
Sunday May 24th, Continued,
seen, as to what bearing saw from Mullers simply saying without dates that opposite to Cape. Elias there was to the SW. a Cape St.[Therniogeness?], betwen which there is a bay; we can only suppose, that this Isle (H) is that Cape, & that from leaving the place where we anchor’d, till he pass’d this Island, he had constant foggy & bad weather, which made him miss sandwhich Sound, & the clear space that is to the NW of us.

[Page 190]
Weather &c.
Monday 25th. May. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Tkd; Light breezes & fair
2 Tkd, Ship
8 Wore ship
12 Calm
[AM]
3 Light airs
6 Mod. & Cloudy
7 Soundings from 32 to 20 faths;
10 Fresh breezes & squally, in 1st. reef Top sails,
12 Do, Wr:
[Notes in Column]
The Bluff Cape of (H) Island & No.62W. & its N Wind West 4 Leags. of shore,
Abreast of a detach’d rock which we saw yesterday noon from the Mast head: (H) lies NbW 2 Leags. from the No end of (H) Island, Ext. of (H) Island: S4°, E, to S32. W. off shore 2 Leags: distant land to the NNW.

[Page 191]
Monday May 25th, Continued
At noon, East end of (H) Island S37.E, a small rocky Island to the Northwd: of that rock we were abreast of at 7, S10W. a point, on the land that we now see extending to the Northwd: from the back of (H) Island, S63W. about 5 Leag: high distant land coverd with snow, W. The land seen at 8 to bear NNW. is a group of black barren looking Islands extending from NW. to NNW ½ W, thr’o these is an opening for which we steer; a point on the Northermost land N.24E,. This northermost land, from the western entrance into Sandwich sound to were we now see, is in a line with the west. of the group of Island [running?] in the direction of SWbS ¾ W. to NEbN ¾ E, In the morning of the 22d; we were in the same parrelel of Latitude we are now in, only we are 15 Leag, farther to the Westwd: the coast on the back of (H) Island; extends as far as the Eye can reach in low land to the NW. it differs widely from the distant mountains which we saw to the So:ward of that Island yesterday noon; being of a mast height near the Island, & pretty clear of snow; & in the low land we saw smokes, a certain sign of inhabitants, & which some of us think intended as a signal for us, which however we are the less inclined to believe, as in the many Islands we have visited, we were convinced that the smokes we saw were not intended for us. all this land is entirely bare of trees & has a brown & barren look like (H.Island). As we are ready to catch at every appearance, & turn it to our wishes, we are willing to suppose that there will be found some sea to divide land so very different in their nature as this to the NW. from what we have seen to the N.E, although in the straights of Magellan on the No:ern Continent or side, one part is wooded & the other quite bare which shows that it is not contrary to the nature of things, that such differences should exist, in the same connected piece of Earth. -

[Page 192]
Weather &c. Tuesday May 26th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & fair Wr:
3 Soundings from 17: to 36 faths:
8 Cloudy Wr.
10 Calm
11 Light airs
12 Do. Wr:
[AM]
2 Fresh breezes & fair Wr:
8 Tkd. ship.
12 Fresh breezes & Cloudy,
[Notes in Column]
We directed our coast for the widest passage, which is between the Middlemost of the Group of Islands to the No:ward, at ½ past 4 we were in the midst of them, but finding a strong tide, & the wind bafling us & sometimes calm we bore up & sent to the So ward & Westwd: of the whole; at 7. Long. by TK. 207°. 14’ at which time we were within 2 miles of some rocks laying near the Western Islands; which Islands therefore we shall place (correcting the TK.) in Longd: 207°:,, 28.Et, & the Noermost parts of this Island, in Lat 59° 00’N, this group of Islands consisting of 6. were in an East & West direction & extend about 5 Leags:, the Wermost is the largest, & the S.Et most the smallest, the most remarkable being a high Sugar loaf shap’d hill; they are all perfectly barren; there

[Page 193]
Tuesday May 26th. Continued.
is not the smallest bush or Verdure to be seen, & the Earth appears of a loose crumbling consistence, By 8. P.M the west part of the group bore S64 ½ E dist: 3 or 4 miles, the high mount to the West, which by its shape. I shall call mount Sugar loaf No 75°:W. & the No. point of land in sight N7.E. at 4 AM, the west part of the group of Islands S.55E, & Mount sugar, loaf N77W, At 8, the Extms: of the Land to the Wt.ward.N17W. to S.14E & the sugar loaf N64°W of that & the So, Extm: 5 or 6 Leags:,The Western Extm: which will bear from another, nearly as they bear from the ship,, form a deep bend, that after taking for a few Leags: from the So. point a S,erly direction, makes a regular & circular sweep, running behind the sugar loaf Mountain, which we take to be an Island, the Coast appears bold, & free from openings, The Mountains kept the direction of the Coast are very high & coverd with snow, but have very gentle desents to the sea side there is a wood on the side of all these mountains, which however does not totally make us despair of the wide & promising opening to the No. separating the eastern & Western Coast At noon the sugar loaf mount N84 ½ W. the So.ern land S15W. the channell for which we are standing extends from N30E to N24W. the Group of Islands S.81E, the So.land or western point of the inlet, & which has two remarkable peak’d hills, takes a So. direction, as well to the Eastwd: as Westwd; which circumstance, & its being so different in its appearance, we imagin will make the low land to the NW. of (H) Island, to be also an Island.

[Page 194]
Weather &c. Wednesday May 27th, 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & fair Wr:
4 Do, Wr;
6 Tkd, Soundd: 23 faths: sand & mud double ruft T, sails & down T. Gallt: yards, fresh Gales & hazey, with small rain & sleet
10 split the Jibb
12 Tkd: mod breezes & fair
[AM]
4 Hazey with small rain
6 bent a new Jibb out all reef’s
8 Light airs with small rain
12 Thick rainy Wr:
[Notes in Column]
When we tack’d we were in a bay near the E point of the inlet & about 2 miles from the shore the point of this bay, were in a line at S.48E; there was an appearance of a good harbour a little to the NE of us; the south point of this bay making the nort point of its entrance, The Capt. was inclined to have anchord for the night as the wind was foul for our proceeding up the inlet, the weather was bad & look’d worse.
From the state of the Wr: we can see no land to the West of the Inlet, the East point bears S64E & another point on the same shore, N37.E, dist. from the land 4 Leagues,

[Page 195]
In the Great River.
Thursday. May 28th, 1778,
As we find that we are in tides way & have been Obliged to Anchor, I shall till we get into an open sea again, leave off the log form & substitute the Journal mode & time.
Light breezes with rain at times, At 2 PM, got top Gt: yards across; we had observ’d a strong tide setting to the No:ward, which now chang’d to a contrary direction. At 4 the Sugar loaf mount bore S55W, the East point of the inlet S36 ½ E; we now saw low land, to appearance unconnected with the high land to the East, extending from No.3W. to No35 ½ Et. At 6 what had the appearance of a small bay or harbour under the high land bore S73E the group of Islands S.W. off shore 4 or 5 Leags: At 8, sugar loaf Mountain S58° Ward the point of the small bay S29°Et, off shore 5 or 6 Leags.; Since noon we have steer’d NbW. with the Wind at So, at 1 ½ or 2 miles an hour, but since 3 we have done little more than stem the tide, we have Sounded every ½ hour from 23 to 25 faths: water; I have before observerd on the Noon of the 25th, that the high land to the East had from the entrance of the western passage into Sandwich Sound a SWbS 3/4 W, direction to the East point of this inlet; this Coast then changes its Course & trends to the NWbN. for about 3 or 4 Leags: (in this space is the bay we tack’d in on the 27th.; on the 27th. at 6PM, we saw also the appearance of a harbour to the Soward of that bay, & we afterwards saw just to the No.ward a break in the land:) where it stretches away to the NNE, & makes between it & the low land to the Noward of us a spacious passage; At noon the tides began to run strong to the southwd: & the wind also changed to the NE with but little of it, continued Sounding during the night, from 23 to 33 faths: At Midnight saw a fire on the Eastern shore, At 3AM the wind came to the Eastwd: but still only little of it, so that at 5 we found we did not stem the tide; we therefore dropt’d the stream anchor bent to an 8 inch hawser which parted on bringing the Ship up to ride by it, dropt the Best, Bower & veered to a whole Cable, The

[Page 196]
In the Great River.
May 28th. 1778
Extms: of the low land to the East from N22 ½ Et dist 6 Leags: to So83Et, 1 Leag. & the nearest land 2 or 3 Leags: farthest high land to the Eastwd: S35 ½ E, the Extm. of the land to the Wt.wd. N31W, & S51W. The Longde. By T. Keeper. whilst at Anchor 207°:. 23’E true Longd: 207°:.32’ Latd: 59° 50 ½’, At ½ past 11. the tide slack’d, we weigh’d & dropt up with the tide to where we nearly thought we had dropt the stream Anchor, & at noon came to again with the B.Bower, in 26 faths: The extreems of the low land N.15E & S51E, Lat by Obsn: 59°. 51’.
29th, We sent the Master to sweep for the Anchor but he return’d without finding it. At both times of anchoring we had carefully mark’d the lead line & kept it to the ground; & found that the flood set to the Northwd: & that the tide rose 10 ½ feet, we also made it high water at ½ past 11. in the forenoon; but we observ’d with our glasses that it was high by the shore at least 2 hours sooner; there were remarkable rocks & stones on the sea shore that enabled us to be tolerably accurate as to the time of high water there. We also weigh’d a bottle of water at both high & low water, but found no perceivable difference in their weight. After giving over all hopes of our anchor. at 8 we weigh’d, & with a Mod. breeze from the Eastwd: steer’d north; at midnight the wind came round to the Northwd: which Obliged us to make short boards, carrying our Soundings from 33 faths: in mid; channel to 25 on each side; at ½ past 4 am, we dropt the B.Br. in 24 faths: & veer’d away a Cable. The extreams of the low land to the Eastwd: N25E & S26 ½ E off shore 2 or 3 Leags; a low point on the W. side of the Channel N32W. our suppos’d Latd: & Longde: 60°. 10’N. and 207.50Et; we find the tide to run very strong; we again weigh’d a bottle of water at high & low water, but found no difference in its weight, yet the rapidity of the Ebb, the muddyness of the water, the low land that begins to rise upon us on both sides are I doubt too sure signs that we are only in a large river; but there are those amongst us of very different opinions; & as, yet, there is 5 points (from NWbN. to NNE) open where there is noland, & as the depth of water is nearly the same, we are willing

[Page 197]
In the Great River
May 29th, 1778.
to hope for the best.
May 30th, 1778
At 1. we weigh’d with a fresh gale from the Northwd: & came to sail under double reef’d T, sails; we worked to windwd:, our passage being about 5 Leags: broad, till ½ past 6 when, the flood tide being done, we anchord with the Bt,Br: in 19 faths: The Extm: of the low land on the East shore are in a line & bear N11W, & S11E, the nearest land to the Westwd: which we take to be an Island WNW. & SSW. the No point on the western shore N23W. distant from the East shore 3. or 4 miles; Lat. of this Anchg: place 60°:.24’. Long: 20°:8’0" Et, we were visited by 2 men in the Cover’d Canoes; they were rather wary in their approach, & staid but a short time with us; these were the first we had seen in this inlet, & do not differ in appearance from those of Sandwich Sound. the ebb ended by 1AM & ½ past we weigh’d with a fresh breeze from the NNE & kept working to windwd: by 4 we had pass’d the Island to the westw’d: & widen’d our space for working, to near double it what it was before; we also deepen’d our water having 30 fath, but this gives little prospect, for we can see that a few leags. farther to the Northwd: the points of the East & West shore appoach, & make a narrower passage to appearance than the one we have pass’d; besides the land on the west begins to be flat & low near the sea side, and the hills do not (as to the Soward of the Wt.ern Island) rise so directly from the shore, this low land both to the East & West, is free from snow & of a good aspect, at ½ past 6, the flood being done, came to anchor. in 19 faths;, the low land to the East from N12W. to S25Et, & the westn: Island S28W. to S45W, we now see land to the Northwd: in the direction of our passage; this with the land on both sides becoming more extensive flat & low, & coverd with wood, begins to stagger the opinions of the most sanguine; & as an additional proof of our being in a river, the same bottle of water to day fill’d at high water was heavier than that at low water, Our Lat. by Obsn: 60°.37’. Longd: 208°18’E
31st., At ½ past 1PM we weigh’d & came to sail, with the wind at No.. a mod. breeze & fair Wr: At ¼ past 5 Long. by T.K. 208°,01’. Lat 60°.42’, at this time we were

[Page 198]
In the Great River.
May 31st, abreast of two forelands, that project from the low lands, on the Eastn: & Westn: shores that to the eastwd: has been uniformly set, at the No, Extms: of the low land to the eastwd: for some time past, makes the narrowest part of the inlet which is about 10 miles broad; these forelands lie in the same parallel, that is in 60°43’N. Lat.; & the Eastn: one in Lon. 238°,,20’ corrected; Variation allowed, The inlet, which has hitherto had a North direction, after passing these foreland trends away to the NbE ¾ E by Compass (or to the NE true), the low land to the east stretches away to the NE, & afterwards to the N, & the westn. shore is first in a NNW & then bends round to a NE direction, by which means the river widens considerably; this with having had above 40. faths: in the narrows & seeing a clear course to the NNE, still gives confidence to some of us, The wind freshend & we had a great ripling in the mid channel which Oblig’d us to make short boards; at 8, the flood tide being finished, we came to with the Bt. Bowr. In 15 faths: sand & stone; The East foreland S.15Et, the West. Foreland S11W. a sandy head on the west & nearest land NWbW ½ W. dist 2 or 3 miles; a high mountain to the Northwd: due N. the Lat of this anchoring place 61°.N. & Longd: 208°.30’Et, at ¾ past 1. AM the ebb having done running at ½ past 2, weigh’d with a light breeze down the passage, we carried from 30, to 15 faths: water, at ½ past 9. the tide ended setting to the No. & we came to anchor in 16 faths: the South Extm: on the west shore S57W, the body of a small high Island N.65E; the Northernmost point of the Eastn. low which is now seen to trend to the Eastwd: S.88W., an opening in the high land N80Et, the high mountain to the North NNW ¾ W. off the nearest shore 4 or 5 miles, Lat61°:.10’No. & Long covrd: 209.00E, the water we weigh’d at the high & low tides, were considerably different in their weight; but every circumstance as well as this proves that we are only in a large river, to the Northwd: it is very low land, & ending in mud banks.
June 1st., Our Cutter with the Discovery’s were sent with the master to proceed & examine the opening to the NNE, on both sides of which was low land, we had to day

[Page 199]
In the Great River.
June 1st, two or three large boats, & many smaller ones about the Ship; they brought us excellent salmon, but had very few skins; these were more painted than at Sandwich sound, & although they cannot be a different people from there, yet, we thought they were a shade darker, & tho’ perhaps only owing to their being painted, had more of the make & face of the people of King George’s Sound, some of these as well as the ornament of bone in their lips, had beads pendant from it, also a piece of bone about 3 or 4 inches long. & of the shape of a bow run thro’ the Cartilage of their nose; others had beads only hanging only there; These Indians were civil but would not venture onboard the ship; at 4 we weigh’d, having light airs Wind westly:, & at 2 Came to with best bowr: in 17, faths: being 3 leags farther to the Eastwd: then when we weigh’d, the No point of the low land to the E. bearing Et: the farthest land to the Southwd: on the west shore S46 ½ W At 2AM the master return’d; he had proceeded about 5 Leags. to the entrance, & 5 Leg.beyond it & determin’d the opening, to be a branch, of this river, whose mouth was about 2 mile wide, the water when they first got there was quite fresh, & they found the river to widen after passing thr’o this narrow entrance, & that also it chang’d its direction from No turning to the NE, & running between distant mountains; the banks as far as they went we could see were of a mod. height, & the Country well wooded with trees of a mod. size, this lower ground was free from snow; they remark’d that the green grass grew tolerably high & that the spring was tolerably advanc’d; they kept sounding and carried from 15 to 11 faths: when it deepend, till in the entrance, of this branch, they had 18. & a few Leag. farther 16 faths: At 4 we weigh’d with a light breeze blowing down the NE opening; to which we work’d up, & thr’o which we had observ’d the tide to run much stronger then in the opening to the Northwd: where the Master was; we kept the Boats ahead sounding; & as we came near the little high Island (which lies off the point of the main, that seperates the two openings) we found our water shoaling, we had Soundings from 12 to 6 faths:, but after passing it, it deepn’d again, at ½ past 10, Came to with the Bt.Br. in 10 ½ faths: sand & stone, veered a whole Cable, the No. point of the East shore, SWbW. ½ W. the Extms: of the Opening NEbE, ¾ E, the

[Page 200]
In the Great River.
June 1st, the west part of the small high Island WNW. the high Mountain to the NW. dist: off the Eastern or neerest Shore 3 miles,
A little before we anchor’d the Captn: sent me to examine this Eastern branch, to land on some point & note the tides, &c; but the tide now set so strong out, that after pulling near 2 hours against it the Captn: call’d us back by signal, when we had got about 2 Leags: from the Ship for the last ½ hour we could only just stem the tide; I’ could therefore only join for a certainty the low Eastern land to the high snowy Mountains which in the narrow part of the branch rise directly from the water side; for till now, what from the appearance of this low land to the Southwd: (where it was seperated from the high mountains by a wide inlet) & from its changing its direction (to the Northwd:) It remaind a doubt, whether all this flat land on the Eastern shore was not disjoin’d from the land on the back of it,
Our Lat. by Observation at noon was 61°.05’.30". & Long. 209°..35’, deduced from Longd: by TK, taken in the offing at anchor,.
2d, As all prospects of finding a passage to an open sea by this inlet, is now given over & which I believe every one was satisfied to be only the entrance of a large & possibly extensive river; the Captn. before his return out of it, sent me to the North point of the Eastern low land, there to take possession of all the Country in the name & for the use of his Majesty & his successors; in our way [theether?] we call’d on board the Discovery & took their Cutter with us, in which was Mr: Bailey & the Doctr:, as we came near the shore we saw about a dozen of the Natives, on the top of the rising ground, extending their arm’s & inviting us on shore; they however appeard in much agitation which put us on our guard; when we landed a dozen on the beach retired; th’o doubtless thr’o fear, seeing a good many of us, & arm’d; they halted on the side of the brow at some distance; I made our folk’s remain on the beach, & as they beckon’d me to come to them, I went, & they placed a skin upon the Grass for me to sit down upon; but their fears returned on seeing that Mr. Baily. & the Doctr. follow’d me; how ever as they & I made motions that we had no arms about us; they remaind Quiet

[Page 201]
In the Great River.
June 2d, & were very civil in their manners, yet suspicious; a few trifling presents were made & received, they prest me to go alone somewhere with them, but their refusing to let any one to accompany me; was a sufficient reason for any not chusing to rely on their good faith; after some time we return’d to our party; & perform’d the Ceremany of taking possession by hoisting colours, & drinking his majesty’s health, in good English porter, as also did three of the natives, who repeated what we said; (& what we did not expect,) were fond of the liquor; they had also the empty bottles, we contriv’d to place a bottle that the Captn: had given us, (with a parchment scroll in it) not in a conspicuous open place, for that the natives would find, but under some rocks by the side of a stunt’d tree where if it escapes the Indians, in many ages hence it may puzzle antiquarians. as we wanted Earth, & Grass, for some New Zeeland plants & flax, & for the Goat, & there was none of it near the beach, we all except 4. went up to the top of the hill; this frightne’d the Natives, although we tried to make them understand what we wanted; & were not a little surpriz’d in seeing that their wooden Armour, which they put on & which goes round the body, is exactly the Shape, size & make of our cork Jackets; their Bows & Spears, were hid in the wood, for they were in a moment arm’d; & we saw them running about the woods evidently frightn’d, we however took no notice of them; but applied ourselves to what we came upon the Hill for; & when we had finish’d returnd to the boats; had the Natives shown a less suspicious behaviour I might have ventur’d to search for their habitations. which we wanted much to have seen in order to compare them with those at King George’s Sound, but to have done it, so alarmd as the natives were in a woody Country where we could not always be in sight of one another or in any compact body, would have been folly; when we left the hill, the natives appeard on the side, & then walk’d down after us; one of them had a dog with him which the Doctor purchas’d with a pair of Buckles, this dog bit him as he was handling it which vex’d the Doctor so, that he desired he might shoot him, alth’o I was averse to what might have the appearance of cruelty yet I consented, intending

[Page 202]
In the Great River.
June 2d, to observe closly how the Indians would behave in seeing so certain a proof of the effects of our weapons; he accordinly fired at the Dog at some distance, & shot him thr’o the head, which kill’d him instantly. I had my Eye on an old man, whose figure at this time thoroughly convinc’d one that he never had seen or heard a Musket before; he Eyed the dog, his companions & us alternately, & without speaking a word retired sideways as did the others; & when they got some way from us, they quickend their pace’s, nor would all our shouting or laying down our arms: avail, not one would come near us, had it been the intention for the Ships to remain longer here, I by no means conceive that this Circumstance would have hindred the Indians from coming nigh us; they must, after the first surprise & fright, have recollected that our behaviour had been to them very friendly, & that they had no reason to fear our making use of our weapons without provocation on their side, & I think it is very certain that it would have made them cautious in giving us offence, & it always appeard to me that as early as possible an opportunity should be taken to show Indians your superiority by some act that does them no injury, & it should, if it can without evident cruelty, be by taking away the life of some animal; for they are so very little inclin’d to reason upon an effect, that simply showing them the force of your ball by firing at any inanimate thing makes but little impression.
These men were drest in loose Martin skin cloaks, feather’d & hair skin jackets, It was a warm day, & they had nothing on their legs; there were in all about 40; some were of a middle or rather above the middle size, Muscular, well made, with manly countenances; they truck’d their Cloathing with our people, for any Metal, but were the fondest of buckles, we saw no sea Otter skins among them.
The soil on the top of the hill, was only a foot deep, black & loose, underneath was sand with a small mixture of Clay, there were growing different species of birch & many of Willow; a few poplar & Elder trees, & Pines which were seemingly in

[Page 203]
In the Great River.
June 2d, a young state; there was also on the side of the hill, rose & Currant bushes.
By 6h we got onboard, the Ship had at 4 weigh’d, but not finding the wind sufficient to stem the flood they dropt anchor just before we got onboard.
At ½ past 10. PM. weigh’d & made sail with the wind from the Southwd: the first time it has been so since our Entring this river, which we cannot but think unlucky as we are likely to have a foul wind up & down; at ½ past 4. the ebb being done came to in 17. faths:, Point possession. N.61.Et, the mount to the NW. N5W. off shore 4 Miles. At 10 weigh’d the wind at SSW. soundings 18, & 15 faths:, Latd: at at noon by Obsn: 60°,,59’,,25"N. Longde: 208°:.37’Et. the East foreland S.16W, the sandy head W ¾ S 2 or 3 Leags: dist.
3d, Deepend our water from 18.fm to no ground at 40 faths:, & then shoald it again, which being not sufficiently attended to, & having an ignorant marine at the lead, at 2 we struck on a sand bank, & found a head of us only 2 faths: & 2 ½ at some dist. about the Ship, as the tide was ebbing we were oblig’d to remain fast till the flood, floated us off, at 5 oClock we drove up with the tide into deep water, by ½ past 6. we came to with the Bt. Br: in 16 faths: the East foreland S10Et., sandy head N36W. 4 or 5 miles off the north part of the West shore N2E, we went upon the bank so very gently as to be hardly perceivable, & The Ship received not the smallest damage, whilst we were aground the East foreland S25E, the west foreland S16W. & sandy head NW ½ N. in passing this bank on the 31st, PM. we observ’d a great ripling in the water which this occasion’d about 2 Leags: in a Northerly direction; this bank is exactly in mid:channell its South part, as we suppose, (for our boats were sounding) is about 2 leags: to the No:ward of the foreland, & its greatest extent is in a northerly direction & is 3 or 4 Miles broad; there is doubtless a channell on either side, although we pass’d only to the Westwd: of it, the part we touch’d, we place in Latde: 60°:.54’ No. & Longde: by T.K; taken whilst a ground, 20°:S.12’ Et. & add 10 gives the Correct Longde, to the West-

[Page 204]
In the Great River.
-ward there is the appearance of a small river, At half past 11. weigh’d & made sail, the wind from the Southwd: & fine Weather; at ½ past 5 ancherd to wait for the tide, we had from 10. to 20 faths; as we work’d across the East foreland N56Et. sandy head N7 ½ Et. A bluff head on the west forland WbS 1 ½ Mile; we were visited by many of the Natives, wh’o came from out a small rivulet or Brook; that seems to run behind the Bluff, they brought us some excellent Salmon, a few skins; & berries that must have been preserv’d during the winter; we doubtless should have had many more of the Natives, had not the tide run so very rapid, & we always moveing our situation, At ½ past 10 weigh’d the wind SSW. Soundings from 7 to 13 faths: at noon Latde: 60°.38’ No. Longde: 208°.04’ Et., the East foreland N27 ½ ° Et, the West No31W. & the low Island, on the west shore South, & nearest dist: from the west Shore 2 or 3 miles. –
4th, Light breezes & fine weather, wind SbW, we kept standing on a wind to the SEbE, but when the No part of the low land bore S38W. about 5 miles off we had shoald our water gradually to 5 faths: at this time the forelands bore N10E & N33W. This made us stand to the NE till we deepn’d our water, & we then stood over to the East shore where we were sure of deeper water; when we had got into 10 faths; we tack’d & stood close to the wind to the westw’d:, at ½ past 6 came too with the Bt,Br: in 16 ½ faths:, the South part of the low land to the East, S13E, the East foreland N11.W. At Midnight we weigh’d, wind at SbE, & at ½ past 6 AM came to again, At noon our Latde: 60°.09’.30’, Longde: by T.Keeper; (observed in the morning.) 207.42 + 10 gives correct Longde: at this time a remarkable peak’d hill which some of us take for a Volcano, from either smoak or Clouds resting on it, S50W. the low Island N42W., the South point of the Eastern low land S30E off shore 5 Leags:, we weigh’d at noon & work’d to windward. –
5th, Mod, breezes & fair, Wind So: working to windward with the Ebb tide which ending at 7. dropt the Bt.Br: in 20 faths: Sugar loaf mountain S26W, & the

[Page 205]
In the Great River.
June 5th, South point of the low land to the Eastwd:, S.43Et, the Volcano S71W., At Midnight we weigh’d & dropt down with the tide, for it was Calm, & at 7AM, came to an anchor, the Sugar loaf mountain S30 ½ W, So point of the low land S82 ½ Et, & the Eastern Extream of the river or inlet S33 ½ Et. This being nearly the spot where we lost our stream Anchor,, the Captn:, un willing to give the 8 inch hawser ower for lost, sent the Master to sweep for it, at ½ past 10 we weigh’d & stood off & on for the boats. At Noon Latde. by observation 59°.51’No, Longde: corrected 237°38’ Et, So, part of the low land S82 ½ E Sugar loaf Mount, S26 ½ W. & the East of the river So.35Et. –
6th, Mod. Breezes & very fine Wr: wind SW. At 1. the boats returnd from sweeping for the Anchor but were so unsuccessful as not only to miss the Anchor but in addition lose a grapnell; many of the Natives came off to us from round the South of the low land, & barter’d their things with us as usual, it was remark’d that these had a great number of Otter skins, whilst those farther up had hardly any, but again theese had not much salmon, at 8 we anchord in 32 fa: the Volcano Mountain bore N65W, the sugar loaf mountain So.60W. the Extm: of the group of Islands S9Et. & S30E. dist. from the East shore 7 or 8 miles Variation Obsn: this afternoon At midnight we weigh’d with a fine breeze from SWbW. & WSW. & at 8 we were abreast & pass’d to the Eastwd; of the Group of Islands of which we were to the Westwd: going up the river, at noon Lat. 58°.37’. ¾ No. Longde. 207°.28’Et, the group of Islands NW ½ N. the point of the western high land W ¾ So, & (H) Island S.58E, about 8 Leags, dist.
On the 25th, of last month we were nearly in the same place as now in our way up, as we then suppos’d, an inlet, but what, to our great Mortification, has proved a river; by which we have lost (to us) a deal of very precious time; & also a good wind (for the first half time of our search) to have ranged & proceeded along the Coast which now we are apprehensive will stretch along to the SW as far as St. John’s in Latd 53 So. according to Mullers map, & if this

[Page 206]
In the Great River.
June 6th, proves so, I fear by the time that we get to the 65°Latde.., when I understand our particular search for a passage is to commence, the season will be so far gone as to oblige us to leave a farther examination to an other Year, in which case we shall have lost two seasons, however it will be soon enough to lament when that happens.
It may be ask’d why we tried & afterwards persevered so long in this inlet; to those wh’o have read the Russian accounts (since Bearings time) of these parts, & who chose to place any the smallest confidence in a map of their last discoveries, publish’d under the Eye of Dr. Matty, must allow, that it was highly probable if not certain that a good deal of what Bearing suppos’d to be continent was broken into Islands, which even now if it proves so in part we may yet not be too late,) in which case it might have appear’d strange not to have tried all large openings, & certainly would have been said that every one we did leave unsearched, was a passage which would have led us to our wishes, & it is clear that had not the examining these been the Captains plan; it would have been better to at once to have shaped our course, from King Georges Sound round Cape St. John’s, or rather to have steer’d from the Society Islands to St Peter & Paul in Kamchatka, there to have taken in water, & from thence to have proceeded to the Noward; but as this was not the plan, & as when we came on the American Coast we found it to have a tolerable regular direction to the NW. to 60°Latde. after that to have gone to 50 Latde: & left unexamind all large Openings would have been a very extraordinary proceeding; It cannot therefore I conceive be judg’d any way strange, that we should have proceeded up Sandwich Sound, or this river; why we persever’d so long in the latter place was, I think, rather owing to some Officers not being so soon convinc’d, as, I have reason to believe the Captain himself was of its being a river, & after all our pains, to have left it a doubtful matter would have been vexatious indeed: we were peculiarly unfortunate in having a Contrary wind on our return, as well as our going up; I shall finish with giving a more general description of this river, allowing for the Variation of the Compass.
The entrance is 15 Leags: broad, that is between the East point & in

[Page 207]
In the Great River.
June 6h, Latitude 59,, 26 No. Longde: 208,,00 East (which is the (SWt.ern extreamity of the high mountainous land that extends from Sandwich Sound in a WSW direction) & the west point in Latde. 58°:.57N. Long.206.28. East (which is also high, & connects with with the Snowy mountains. that we saw to the Soward of (H) Island; on this part are two remarkable high peak’d hill’s) these extremities bear from one another N73Et, & So.73W: between these, but to the Soward, with all, are the group of barren Islands; they are to the SW of the East point 4 or 5 Leags: The direction of the river as high as the heads which I have call’d the forelands in Lat. 60°:.43’ No is NNE; its breadth to 59°,,45’ Lat. Is unequal from the deep bending on the western shore (in which is the high sugar loaf mountain) & from the NE direction of the Eastern high land, but in that Lat. the western Coast takes a regular course to the NNE & continues as before, compos’d of high snowy mountains) rising from the Sea; but on the eastern shore, the coast takes an eastern direction making with the high land that runs NE a deep inlet, & also a NNE course up the river, & this is all of a mod. height, free from snow, tolerably well wooded & of a pleasant appearance; the high ridge of snowy Mountains runs in the same direction, but a good way back: from 59°:.40’. to 60°:.43’. the breadth is from 10 to 8 Leags: in about 60,23, on the west shore there is a peak’d mountain that we supposed to be a Volcano; here also is a low flat Island on the west shore of 4 or 5 Leags. Long, that narrows the passage to the Eastwd: of it 5 Leags.; between the forelands it is 4 Leags. broad, from hence the river widens to 5 or 6. Leags. & alters its direction to NEbE ½ E, to Lat 61°.10’No. when it is separated with two branches; the one running NNE the other EbS: from the Forelands, the Western as well as the Eastern shore of the river is low land, with the Snowy mountains still farther back, as one goes up; keeping the same NNE direction they had below the foreland, & leaves a very flat level country on each side in the course of the Northern branch; but in the Eastern

[Page 208]
In the Great River.
June 6th, branch it is every were surrounded with high snowy mountains, & which seem’d to terminate the direction of this branch; from the nature of the Country in Sandwich Sound in nearly the same parallel of Latde. which is only distant 18. or 20 Leags from as far as we can see in this East branch, many are led to conclude that this branch of the river runs into that Sound; the length of the river from its entrance to where our Boats went in, is about 180 Miles, almost all of the Eastern Coast is a level Country & perhaps fit for culture; & to the No.ward of the foreland, that is for 80 miles, the western coast is so likewise, the Weather has been temperate & equal, The Thermometer very rarely lower than 42, & seldom higher than 45, with the So,erly wind it was fine Wr. & dry; with the No.erly wind overcast; & if to the Wt,ward. attended with rain & dirty: In our navigation up, the only danger we met with, was the bank to the No.ward of the foreland, possibly there is a shoal to the No.ward of flat Island on the west Shore, where we shoald so suddnely to 5 faths: as far as the forelands we kept the East shore aboard, having always deeper & more equal Soundings, but to the No. of the foreland. we kept the west shore onboard for the same reason.

[Page 209]
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[Page 210]
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[Page 211]
Weather &c. Sunday June 7th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & fine Wr:
2 Little wind & hazey,
4 Light breezes & fine Wr:
8 Light Airs & fine Wr.
10 Caught a great number of halibut, taken aback,
[AM]
8 hazey Wr:
12 Do, Wr.
[Notes in Column]
At 6. we saw a large smoke on the low land to the Wt.ward, on nearly the same place as we saw it on the 25th, At 8 (H) Island, S40Et. the rock to the Noward, of it S69 ½ E, 2 Leags: the small rocky Island N84W, the No point of the low land N73W. the land immediatly to the NW. of (H) Island form’d into many small bays with rocks laying off them.
Halibut were seen swimming on the surface of the Sea.
At 8. we saw seals, Shags, & divers & other common birds, also a sort of a Sea fowl, about the size of a duck, of a black colour with a red & white variegated bill & face they flew frequently close to the Ship
From the haziness of the Wr. we can only see distinctly (H) Island the Extm. of which are N19W. to N36W, distance 10 miles,

[Page 212]
Weather &c. Monday June 8th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light Breezes & hazey.
2 taken aback,
4 Light Airs
7 In 1st. reef Topsails
8 Mod & Cloudy.
12 Fresh breezes & Cloudy Tkd. Ship
[AM]
4 Do. Wr.
8 Tkd. Ship,
12 Mod, & hazey, Tack’d Ship,
[Notes in Column]
At 4, the land to the NW. seem to run in to broken bay’s, & gives the low land to the Noward of (H) Island where we saw the Smoke, much the appearance of being an Island, it is also more free from snow, then what we saw to the So.ward the whole of it is very broken,, free of wood & a dark brown barren appearance – At 8 the East end of (H) Island N30W. the Soermost land in sight, S ½ Et. off shore 5 Leagues.
At 4 the So.extms: S.10W. & (H) Island NWbN, about 6 Leags: saw a great number of Seals, Whales, porpoises, large flocks of birds, Divers, shags, & Gulls, flyg. about, saw also a great Quantity of the common rock weed, & of that stalk’d sort, which we fell in with, on the first making the American Coast,
At 8. a broken rocky point S25W. 4 or 5 miles. a high black hill which appeard to be an Island, W ½ S, breakers SWbW ¾ W. 2 or 3 miles, the Isle (H) N2Et, the So. extm: So.19E, a little to the Wtwd: were rocks in the entrance of a deep inlet, at noon (H) Island N48W. the black head S71W. & the So. extm: S25W. dist. from the Island 7. Leags: (H) that is so conspicuously situated & whose bearings are so often taken is in Lat58°:.14’N. Long, 207°50’. East. -

[Page 213]
Weather &c. Tuesday June 9th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & cloudy Wr.
4 Do. Wr:
7 Tkd. Ship.
12 Do, Wr. Tkd, Ship, lost a log. & two lines
[AM]
2 Squally with small rain
4 Do. Wr. Tkd. Ship,
8 Do. Wr.
9 Tackd Ship
[Notes in Column]
When we tack’d the black hill or Island, WNW. a small Isld: with rocks about it, SW ½ W. 3 mile off, set as breakers, At 8 AM, the So cape, that has rocks running some distance off, S.30°: Et, (H) Island N5, East,
The Land is of a mod. height very unequal & full of breaks, on the back are snowy mountains.

[Page 214]
Weather &c. Wednesday June 10th. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod, breezes & thick hazey Wr.
4 Do. Wr:
5 Tack’d Ship,
8 Do. Wr:
10 Back’d Mizn. T sail for Discovery,
12 Do, Wr:
[AM]
1 fill’d the Mizn. top sail
4 Do. Wr. Tkd. Ship & back’d Mizn. for the Discovery,
6 fitt’d Mizn. T, sail
8 Do, Wr:
12 Do. Wr. Tkd. no Land in Sight
[Notes in Column]
Saw the Land from NbW. To W. = SW; about 2 miles dist. from a low rocky point, which we yesterday at 7 PM. call’d the So. Cape its Latde. will be about 57°,,30’ No, Longitude 207°,, ¼ . Et,

[Page 215]
Weather &c. Thursday June 11th, 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & thick hazey Wr.
4 Do. Wr:
8 Do. Wr: Tkd. Ship Soundd: 30 fats: black sand.
10 38 faths: Do
11 50. Do
12 Do. Wr:
[AM]
4 Do. Wr: Tkd: Soundd: 50 fats: Coarse Sand.
6 Fresh breezes & Clear at times
7 Soundd: 55 faths: Sand,
11 Fresh breezes & thick hazey Wr.
12 Soundd: 43 fatm: Corral & sand,

[Page 216]
Weather &c. Friday June 12th. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes, thick misty Wr: & mizling rain, Soundgs: 39 faths: fine sand,
4 Do, Wr: 42 fatm sand & Shells
6 Light breezes & hazey Wr:
7 thick foggy Wr: the Discovery fired a Gun, answer’d it,
9 Do, Wr. at. 8, made the Signal wore Ship, Soundd: 84 faths:
11 ½ past 10. the Wr: cleard up,
12 Light breezes & Cloudy, Soundd. 72 faths:
[AM]
3 70 faths:
4 Do. Wr: Cleand below & air’d the Ship with fires.
8 Do. Wr:
12 Do, Wr: Tkd. Ship, Soundd: 41 faths. Sand & shells,
[Notes in Column]
½ past 10, saw the land, WbS ½ S, about 4 Leags: dist. at 12, land WbS. 4 or 5 Leag: at 4, land from W. to NW. 9 Leags: at 8 land from Wt. to N13W. about 6 Leagues.
At noon, the No. extms: which is what is call’d the So. rocky Cape, on the 9h, & 10h, N. 15Et, 10 or 12 Leags:, the SW. extm: which is a high round head; S43W. the nearest shore 3 or 4 miles, a point within 4 or 5 miles N10E, & an other to the So. ward S37.W. between these are those rocks lying about a mile from the Shore, the Coast from rocky cape trends SWbS, which is nearly at right angles to its direction to the No,ward of that Cape. the appearance of this part does not differ much from what we saw to the Noward of rocky Cape, except with respect to the snow, which seems in a much smaller quantity towards the Sea, & even on the highest hills; Some of the Vally’s here are pretty extensive, & in some parts the tops of the other hills could be seen beyond those which forms the Coast. A sloping land runs from the foot of most of the hills towards the sea, & has an agreeable appearance; but the Shore it self is cliffy; except where in some places there appears small Inlets & harbour’s, the Country however is evidently alter’d for the worse since we left the river, as the surface is cover’d only with what we suppos’d moss excepting some of the sloping grounds, where there is here & there a Group of trees, & that only on the main near (H) Island. -

[Page 217]
Weather &c. Saturday June 13th. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & Cloudy,
2 Out 1st. reef T. sails
4 Mod. breezes Tkd. Ship,
6 Do. Wr:
7 Tkd. Ship 61 faths. water sand. & shells In 1st. reef unbent the Jib, & bent another,
11 Fair Wr:
12 Do. Wr:
[AM]
3 Fresh breezes in 2d. reef Mizn. T sail
4 Do Wr.
6 Tkd. Ship,
7 Out 1st reefs T sails
8 Fresh breezes & hazey,
9 Shifted the T. sails with the old ones, reev’d new main Top sail hall yards,
12 Fair Wr: Tkd.. Ship,
Discovery in Compy.
[Notes in Column]
At ½ past 6, Tack’d, the rocky Cape N23Et, the round head S54W. off Shore 2 or 3 Leags. & land seen farther to the Soward which we take to be an Island, S33 ½ W., & what at noon bore S37W., bears now S57 ½ W. dist 5 Leags:, At 6. AM. hazey Wr: saw the land but indistinctly, At 8. the suppos’d Island S63W. 8. or 9 Leags:
At Noon, the North extream being the same that yesterday noon bore N10E. bear now [at?] 29Et, the round head N41W. 3 or 4 miles off the Island (only suppos’d so till now) S8 ½ W, the So extm. which is a low point, S50W. The high round head, whose bearings we have often taken, is I believe an Island, & the coast within it, takes a considerable bend to the Noward, & form an Inlet or bay, between the large Island to the Soward & the main, there are many small rocky Islands, & the Coast trends still more Wt.erly.

[Page 218]
Weather &c. Sunday June 14th, 1778,
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & fair, in 1st. reef.
2 Topsails,
4 Do. Wr: Tack’d Ship
5 Tkd. Ship,
6 Do Wr.
8 Do. Wr:
12 Do. Wr:
[AM]
2 Tkd, Ship
3 Soundd: no Ground 75 faths:
4 Mod. & Cloudy,
7 Fresh breezes saw a Swan, ¾ past Tkd: Ship,, Soundd: 28. faths: Sand & Gravel,
12 Do. Wr:
Discovery in Compy.
[Notes in Column]
The South Extm: of the Island S64°W. the No. Extm: in a line with the So point of the Main set at noon S56W. At 8, the S. point of the Island S11°W. a low point to the west set at noon S63 ½ W. Noermost land in sight N20E, the high round head NbW ½ W. dist from the Shore 2 or 3 miles.
At 8. AM. ¾ past 7. I had the low point to the Westwd: S87W. the Island extending from So.10E to S48 ½ W. N point of the main, N9E, about, 3 Mile from some small Islands, which lie between the large Island & the main, A skin Canoe the same sort as in Sandwich Sound came with 2 people near the Ship, but we supposed its bloing fresh made them return back,
Noon the large Island bore S87W. to N43W. 3 Leags:, the high round head N9W. about 10. Leags:, -

[Page 219]
Weather &c. Monday June 15th, 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & Cloudy Wr.
4 Do Wr. Tkd. Ship
7 out 1st. reef Top sails
8 Do. Wr.
10 Thick hazey Wr. book’d Mizn: Top sail for the Discovery, ½ past fitt’d, Fresh breezes & hazey Wr.
[AM]
1 Split M.T.G. sail, unbent it & bent another, hazey, with rain.
4 Misty Wr:
7 In 1st, reef Mizn. Topsail,
8 Fresh Gales & hazey, with rain
11 In 1st. reef F Top sail, strong Gales, split Mizn: T sail in 2d. reef F.T. sail& 1st. Main T. sail
[Notes in Column]
At 4, the west point of the Island N67W. & the East point N28W. of which runs some rocks, 2 or 3 miles to the N.Et.; this East point is in Lat. 56°.32’ No, & Longde: 205°:40’ & bears from the low west point of the main set at ¾ past 7.AM, S74W. 8 Leags: At 8, the Island from N5W. to N52W. 4 or 5 Leags: off, the East part of the land in sight due No.
From the present appearance it is uncertain wether this is an Island or Islands, as there is, now we are to the Southwd. opposite the middle of it, much the signs of a passage dividing it,
At 2.AM, ½ past saw a low Island bearing from NbW. ½ W. to NbE. 3 or 4 Leags:, At 4, the low Island from NbE, to NNE ½ E,
Noon, From the state of the Wr: & our Course, we have had no sight of the main, since 8PM., nor of its western Extremity since 8AM, on the 14th, it then appear’d to trend away to the Northwd:,
The Coast here abouts is perfectly distitute of wood; The Island is lower than the other part of the Coast is,

[Page 220]
Monday June 15th, Continued.
June 15th, Almost free from Snow, & covered with a mossy, or some substance that gives it a brownish cast,; some of us imagine this to be Bearings foggy Island; It is however too near the Coast to be it, according to Mullers Chart, supposing it so, it is dificult to say whether what we have seen is more favourable for his suppositions of the land near it being a continued Continent, & so continuing to St. Johns, or that of Stellings Account publish’d by D. Matty, who places foggy Island as one of those that have no wood on them, & belonging to an Archipelago of Isles,: we certainly believe that what we have seen is yet a continued Continent; but we hope that some truth will be found in the former accounts, although hitherto there is no such thing as reconciling either of them & instead of doing us service, I think they have done us a deal of hurt. -

[Page 221]
Weather &c. Tuesday June 16th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh Gales & hazey with rain
2 hauld over Wind
3 Double reeft the T sails
4 split the fore sail
5 Shifted the Courses for y. best Suit
6 Do. Wr: bent another, Mizn. T, sail
7 Soundd: 120 fat. Mud. Close reeft Mizn. T sail & set it.
9 Light breezes & hazey.
10 Out reef’s Soundd: 72 fatm: sand & mud, a great swell from, ESE.
12 at 11. wore Ship, Hazey Wr:
[AM]
2 Light Airs, Soundd. 45 fatts:
3 sand & mud, Calm
8 Mod, & hazey, out all reefs
11 Little wind & Cloudy Sounded 65 faths:
[Notes in Column]
¾ past 2. Saw the Land bearing NWbW ½ W. 3 Leagues,
Saw a high bluff. Island SWbW & more land WbN, which seem’d to be part of the Continent
¼ past 3 saw the land SEbE ½ E, at 4, the Isd: set at 9PM. which I shall call Bluff Island No.17 ½ W, the So Extm: S66 ¾ W off shore 6 or 7 Leag
A group of detach’d rocks S43W. dist 4 leag: a remarkable point call’d pinnicle point N67W, Extm: of the land from NW ½ W. to W ¾ No. off Shore 6 Leag noon pinicle point N46W. the detach’d rock N81E, Bluff Island N17 ½ W, the So Extm. S66 ¾ West off shore 6 or 7 Leagues.

[Page 222]
Tuesday June 16th, Continued,
In casting our Eye over the winds & weather since yesterday, the rate we were going at the time, & what we now see of Islands, & detach’d rocks, we have reason to think ourselves very fortunate, although when we had steer’d from 8AM yesterday till near 3PM. this day, on a W & NNW course, we thought that the land was taking a favourable direction, & on our then falling in with it we judged it other wise. –
The land we saw at ½ past 3AM. we only just had another view of at 5, but it was too hazey & foggy to either say it was one or more Islands; for the same reason its situation will not perhaps be so exact as the other lands; we place it between the Lat. 56. & 56 ½ N. & Longde: 202°:.50’ or 203°:, & is about 10 leags from the main; pinnacle point is a very remarkable land, being composed of three very bare & upright spires, rising from high rocky Cliff’s close to the Sea; the Coast to the NE of pinnacle point, we saw but indistinctly, it however seems to [hand?] with the general direction of this part of the Coast, which is from the land we fell in with in the fog. In 56.32, = 202 ½ to Pinnacle point, SWbS & NEEN. Lat 56°12’ N. Long. 201°20’. from this point as far as we see to the SW., it is perhaps as broken, rocky, barren & dreary looking a place as can well be conceived, the exceeding ridged & entirely barren Cliffs. that rise from the Sea, are sometimes free from Snow, but further in land the mountains rise to a great height & are as completely cover’d as what we saw in 58. & 60, to the Eastwd; of Sandwich Sound; here indeed are appearances of harbours, To the NNE of pinnacle point about 5 or 6 Leags: are three Islands, one of which is what we have call’d Bluff, Island, being considerably higher & larger than the other two, which are A little better than rocks; the detach’d rocks are 10 Leag. from pinnacle point in an ESE direction.

[Page 223]
Weather &c. Wednesday June 17th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light airs & Calms
4 Unbent M.T.Gt. sail, bent the old one,
6 Soundd: 65 faths: fine Sand,
8 Do.
[AM]
3 Mod. & fair,
6 Sailmakers repairing the old Mizn. Top sail.
12 Light airs & fine Wr.
Discovery in Co.
[Notes in Column]
the Bluff Island NWW, pinicle point N28W. the N point of a spacious bay N87W. the So. point of Do, S83W, a hummock making the Sermost land the same as at noon, & which appears to be a small Island S73W.
at 4AM, Bluff Island N2W. pinicle point N15W., the hummock Island S88W.
At noon.The pinicle point seen only from the Mast head N5E, the small hummock Island N32W 8 or 9 leags. Extms: of the Main as seen from the deck N5W. & S79W since 8, we have seen more land to the Southwd: which we now perceive to be a group of Islands extending from So80W. to S42W.

[Page 224]
Weather &c. Thursday June 18h. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & fine Wr:
4 Do: Wr. Soundge: 96 fatms: soft mud
8 Calm,
12 Light Airs & Calms
[AM]
12 Light Airs & fine Wr:
Discovery in Compy.
[Notes in Column]
At 8PM,, the Extms: of Islands which we believe to be those call’d by, Bearing. Shumag’ins Isles, S10W. & S49W. Extms: of the main S80W. to NNW. the hummock Island N44W. at 4.AM Schumagins Isles S15W. to S57.W., the hummock Island N50W.
Noon, the hummock Island N29W. 10. or 12 Leags: the Extms: of Schumagins Isles S10°:W. & S52W. about 8. or 9 Leags the No part of the land in sight NbE ¾ E, our situation at this time is little different from yesterdays, & our dist, from Shore, has been to great to say much about it; only that from some parts of the coast appearing Blacker & more free from Snow, then others, we imagind that there might be many Islands, or otherwise projecting points, into bays & harbours on the Coast; to the NW. of the high hummock’d Island or rocks; the Coast seems to bend in Considerably. –

[Page 225]
Weather &c. Friday June 19h, 1778,
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light airs & Calm.
4 Fine pleasant Wr.
8 Do. Wr.
[AM]
7 Mod & Cloudy
8 Do, Wr.
12 Do, Wr. & Cloudy
[Notes in Column]
At 4PM. Schumagins Isles S6W the Wt, point of the main. S86 ½ W hummock’d Island. N25W. dist 8 Leags: 4,AM, the No. part of these Isles, S47W & the Wt. point of the main S,77W. as we proceeded on, we found that the Islands, which seem to be scattred from all this part of the Main, joind the group we have call’d Schumagins Isles, so as to make no very wide channel; but as the wind is at East, & came to SE after all the foul winds & variable Wr:, the Captn: was enabled to push for any channel & by noon we were in a passage, having the Island that is much the largest, to the Southwd: as also, all the Island we have hitherto calld, Schumagins; to the Nowd: those which we are not certain, except two, wether they join or no the main; In this Channel, there as in the Middle: a remarkable rock, which at noon bore S62W. 3 miles, & the point that was set at 4, as the N part N49E, this point is on the largest Island, & the Nomost part of it at a dist, this large Island being composed of bluff heads seperated by low lands, appears as many distinct, Islands, there are to the SE. 6 or 7. Islands besides detachd rocks laying off, at Noon. Lat. these Islands are rugged & barren they rise in uncouth cliffs, & make a [antic?] appearance this was still, senic I [indecipherable] them, but not near in [indecipherable] Quantity, as on the inland Coast. which may be [indecipherable] to their being of a mod. [indecipherable] & most small. -

[Page 226]
Weather &c. Saturday June 20th, 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & pleasant Wr:
4 Do. Wr:
7 Soundd: 40 faths; Gravel
[AM]
3 ½ past 3 Soundd: 35 faths: rocky
12 Little Wind & fair,
Discovery in Compy.
[Notes in Column]
Standing through the passage, at 4 a high bluff head which made the So. point of the main or Island near it So.60W. & the SW point of the large Isld, S25E dist 5 Leags: about ½ past six were near the high Bluff Head, which now appeard to be the SW part of the land within us; we were greatly alrm’d at the Discovery (who was half a Leag: astern of us) firing three Guns, & making the Signal to speak us, & bring to; we concluded as there was no evident danger in the passage that some sudden leak had happen’d. A boat was immediately dispatchd to her, & return’d in a short time wh. an account that it had been done on purpose to make us bring to till C. Clerk should inform Capt. Cook of a rather singular circumstance that had just happen’d on board his Ship. several Canoes had followed the Ship for some time & at last some of our people thought those in the Canoes made signs to come on board us in the manner of Europeans, which induced them to throw a line, & a person in one of the Canoes fastend a small wooden case or box to it which the Man wh’o took it threw aside

[Page 227]
Saturday June 20th. Continued
without any suspicion of its containing any thing, but after the Canoes were gone & was accidentally taken up, &, the string being cut, that tyed the two pieces of wood, found to contain a piece of paper folded up, & carefully laid in, which had on it some some lines wrote in the Russian Language, with the date 1778, affix’d, & in the body of the note was something that refer’d to the year 1776, which was all excepting some name that could be understood, for as some onboard could read the Language; most of our people were of opinion that some Russian Sailors had been Ship wreck’d here, & that they had taken this method, on seeing us pass by, to inform us of their situation, but if this was the case it is very extraordinary, if they had any desire to be reliev’d from their distress that none were eager enough to come out in Canoes & secure to themselves what they must long have wish’d for; The most natural method I think of accounting for these notes being in the hands of the Indians, is that the Russian Vesels doubtless carry on a traffic amongst them for furs, & that, when they touch at any particular place favourable for that purpose, it is usual to leave a note of information, to the next that may come, & the Indians knowing the practice seeing us pass by were determind to give this note supposing that we might be Russians & that it would make us stop; these I believe were also the Captns: Ideas, we however enquired no farther about this matter, nor would our time & situation allow us to have made further enquiries. –
At 8PM the bluff. head N25E, & the SW of Schumagins Island S60E, off shore 3 Leags: the farthest land insight to the westwd:, which look’d like a high Island bore So70W. the Bluff head Wt. makes the NW. point of the passage in Latde. Long to the SSE of it about 4 miles diste: are a patch of rocks of a Mod. height. we pass’d between them & the Bluff head. –
½ past 3AM. as the day appeard we observ’d breakers about 2 miles

[Page 228]
Saturday June 20 Continued
within us & continuing on in the line of our Course, at 4 the Bluff, head N48E, the high Island set last night N2. to N20W. a very deep inlet N32W, a very high snowy & peaked mountain N50W; a reef of rocks extended from NNW. to W. at about a leags: dist, & the body of an Island within the reef bore NWbW ½ W. hauld off. from the breakers; The morning was remarkably fine & Clear, & we could see a great dist, from the mast head, but no end to the inlet to the NWbN., The main land was entirely covered with snow, but the Isld. had none on them, at 8 saw more rocks & breakers ahead hauld off, there looks as if there was a passage between these & the detach’d breakers, we were near the breakers at 4 oClock S2W. 3 miles, the SW point of land insight S65W. & the high Island North 4 Leagues.
Noon, A distant hummock like an Island S51W., the west Extream of the main S88W. & the East Extream being the Bluff head in Schumagins passage N25E, In the intermediate space between these extreems, the land is exceeding broken, forming very deep inlets to the Northwd:, one particularly which we noted this morning. which now bears N21W. the Island within the reef N10W. & the high Island N4W. the semicircular reef of rocks from N75. to N42W. these lay 5 or 6 Leags: from the main, but those we pass’d in the morning not more than 2, from this account of these reefs it will appear, that this is an exceeding dangerous coast to fall in with, in thick or dirty weather, or by night.

[Page 229]
Weather &c. Sunday June 21. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light Airs & fair Wr:
3 Soundgs: 30 fats: gravel & Sand
4 Do Wr:
12 Calm & Cloudy Wr.
[AM]
1 Light Airs & hazey Wr:
10 Soundd: Ground 35 faths
12 Light winds & fine Wr.
[Notes in Column]
the hummock or Island N93W. & the W extm: the same as at noon, N81.W. off Shore 8 Leags; At 9. some breakers, which lie between the Circular reef of rocks & the Hummock N60W. & the hummock S62W.
AM at 4 the Hummock’d Island N77W. the west land N46W. we now saw three exceeding high Mountains the one seen yesterday at 4AM bore N17W. the two others N50W. & N85W. at 8 the north mount N12W. the Hummock N88W. The hummock we now perceive to be a barren high head land on the NW part of an Island which is every where else very low, & about surrounded with a deal of very low broken Land & rocks; this low land, was entirely free from snow & barren, except in some spots where there appeard something like a few diminutive Shrubs, we were not

[Page 230]
Sunday June 21st. 1778 Continued
2 Leags: from the land, & observed the Sea to break with great force on the rocks, as we got a great Quantity of Halibut’s, the name of the head or Island were call’d after them the Latde. of the head is & Longde: Over Hallibut Island we could see the main land covered with Snow, but particularly the four large mountains, all of a prodigious height, the northermost one, seen yesterday, is a double hill & we place it in Latde: & Longde: the next is a high round peak & bore N37W. the land in that direction is very much broken, & great appearance of deep inlets. the third hill is irregular in its Shape & terminates in a flattish top & bore, N77W. the fourth or westermost, is near to the third & is not more remarkable from its being a Volcano, (the smoke from which, Issues out, on one side near its top), than from the exact regularity of its conical shape; both these hills on many parts near the top, Were free from Snow; this last bore N80W. there are not perhaps in the world, four such snowy mountains & so very remarkable; their appearance was grans beyond description. –

[Page 231]
Weather &c. Monday June 22 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light Airs & Calms caught a great many fish
4 Light Airs
8 Light Breezes
12 Hazey Wr:
[AM]
5 Do. Wr. large flocks of birds about the Ship,
8 Light Airs & hazey.
11 People working up Junk,
12 Light Airs & Calms
Discovery in Co.
[Notes in Column]
During this Calm our people caught about a 100 halibut some of which were 100, & none to appearance less the 20, at 4PM, west point of the low land S82W. dist. 3 or 4 Leags: At 8 the Volcano mountain which smoak’d prodigiously N73 ½ W. Halibut head N15W the low shore & rocks off it, from N15E to N74W. Halibut head is in Latde. Long
At 4AM Halibut head N15W. 9 or 10 Leags: the hazyness of the Wr: hindered our seeing the main coast. except the Volcano which bore N25 ½ W. At noon the Volcano Mount N52W. & its estimated distance 25 Leagues, Halibut head N9W. dist 14 Leags: saw a great many Whales, Seals, Porpoises black Sheerwaters, divers, Shags, Gull’s, & a beautifull Bird which has been very common along the Coast since our leaving the river; it is somewhat less than a duck of a

[Page 232]
Monday June 22d, Continued,
black colour, except the sides of the fore part of the head, which is white & from above, & behind each Eye arises an elegant Yellowish white crest revolved back wards like a rams horn; the bill & feet are red.
At 2PM a Canoe, with one man, came off, who on approaching the Ship bowed in the same manner as those who visited the Discovery on the 19th. We were convinc’d by him that the Russians have an immediate communication & traffic with the Natives along the Coast, not only from the bowing, which has doubtless been borrowed from them, but from his having a pair of green breeches on, & a Jackett of black stuff under his own, which he frequently shewed, & pointed to the shore as if to say it came from thence, or that such things were there, he also made motions that somewhere behind halibut Island, or in the deep Inlet to the NW. were harbours for such Ships as our’s. We could not but remark that his bringing only one grey fox skin, & a number of fishing implements to barter, were also certain signs, that the Russians, were, or had been, in the Neighbourhood; for the man knew well enough the Sea Otter Skins,, but made us understand that there were none left where he came from, his fishing harpoons the head of the shafts, for a foot & ½ were of bone, neatly made & carved; he used the double Bladed paddle as we had seen in some Canoes in Sandwich Sound; although they there mostly used a single bladed one; this has nearly the resemblance of the Esquimaux, from being less pointed he offered us a bladder full of something, perhaps oil, as he opend it, took a mouthfull & fastned it up; this well behaved personage resembled exactly many of these we saw in Sandwich Sound, as to size & features, but was quite free from paint of any kind, & had the perforation of his lip made in an oblique direction without any ornament in it, but he did not seem to understand any of the common words us’d by those or the people of any other places we had been in when they were repeated to him, such as Keeta Naima Soueka &c.; he wore one of the frocks made of Guts, & had a kind of Cap differing from what we had seen before; as it was only a rim. with a projecting curv’d part forward; it would be only ornamental except

[Page 233]
Weather &c. Tuesday June 23d: 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light Airs & hazey Wr:
4 Small rain,
6 Light breezes & hazey Wr.
8 Do, Wr:
12 Do, Wr:
[AM]
4 Light Airs & Calms, large flocks of Sea parrotts about,
8 Light winds & hazey
9 Little wind & [dble?], Tkd Ship
10 Sailmakers repairing the old foresail.
12 Mod, & Cloudy,
[Notes in Column]
Halibut head. N7W. 13 or 14 Leags:

[Page 234]
Weather &c. Wednesday June 24th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & Cloudy.
2 Tkd. Ship,,
8 Bore down to the Discovery
9 Hauld our Wind
11 Tkd. Ship, Back’d Mizn. T sail for Disy
12 Tkd. Ship,
[AM]
1 Hazey Wr.
3 Small rain
4 Do. Wr:
8 Fresh Breezes & hazey
10 Tkd, Ship
12 Mod breezes & Cloudy,
Discovery in Compy:
[Notes in Column]
The main from NEbN. to NWbN, 8 or 9 Leags:
a remarkable point nearest to us NWbN ½ W. 4 Leagues.
Noon., the Extms: of the main land NbE ½ E & NWbN ½ W. a Cluster of small Islands from S71W. to S80W. dist 5 or 6 Leagues.

[Page 235]
Weather &c. Thursday June 25th, 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & hazey Wr.
4 Tkd: Ship,
7 Lost a log & line; ½ past Tkd: Soundd: 42 fatm: black Sand
11 Soundd: 50 faths:
12 Hazey with small rain,
[AM]
8 Light breezes & Cloudy Wr.
10 great many Whales & birds about,
12 Mod. & Cloudy.
[Notes in Column]
A great number of Whales & Seals about PM at 4, the Ext. NNE. & NWbW. ½ W.dist. 7. or 8. Leags: at ½ past 7. Tkd: the remarkable point off, which we touch’d at 10AM N2W. the westermost land in sight which is lowish land & terminates in a perpendicular Bluff with some rocks off it N77W., the Extms: of the Islands S37W. & S59W. although the Main land is not here so broken, as to the NE near the Sea, & is more even, yet it almost entirely coverd with snow; & is as barren of wood as the rest of the Coast; the Island are pretty free from snow, but appears equally barren, AM at 6. saw Volcano Mountain mention’d on the 22d, which bore N & the irregular flat topp’d mount to the Et. of us N13E, at 8 the Exts. of a cluster of Islands S55W. & S81 ½ W. the low Bluff on the Wt. point N67W. we steer’d with an intention of passing between the main land & the Island, but at 10 in finding more land to WNW. open with the low Wt. Bluff the Capt. hauld off, to go to the So: of the Islands alth’o from the direct, & sharp manner in which. the Coast seem’d to turn to the Northd. Made him have a strong Idea, that the continent supposing all that we had hitherto seen to be a continued land which is certainly doubtful (would [indecipherable] here), this Bluff is on Lat & Longde at Noon the Cluster of Islds: N56W. & S69W. the low Bluff fro: on [indecipherable] No40W. dist. from Isld, 3 Leag

[Page 236]
Weather &c. Friday June 26th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & hazy Wr:
4 Do. Wr:
8 Fresh breezes & hazey Wr: in 1st, reef Maintop sail.
10 at ½ past 10, the Weatr: being foggy hauld of the land
12 Fresh breezes & foggy.
[AM]
2 ½ past 1. bore away.
4 Light Breezes & thick foggy Wr.
8 Fresh breezes & thick foggy Wr:
12 Light breezes & thick foggy Wr:
[Notes in Column]
At 4. the Extms: of a rang of Islands. Extending nearly East & West. – N10E to N85W. the nearest point 4 or 5 Leagues of the Et. Extm: as set yesterday noon S69W. the Extm. As set at 4. from N33E to West.
The Wt. Extm: set at 6. N84W. & a point that opend at noon with the East Extm: N39W. dist 5 Leags: ½ past 8 saw more land to the WSW. like 2 Islands the Soermost the highest. at ½ past 9. the Wt. Extm. (set at 8.) WbN.
When we bore away, we steerd parellel for the range & direction of the Islands seen in the Evening & as we had by hauling off for 3 hours increas’d our distance near 3 leags:, we had not much Apprehension of falling in with land, alth’o it was so very thick & foggy, but ½ past 4 the watch on deck were alarm’d with the noise of water beaking on a shore, resembling

[Page 237]
Friday June the 26th. Continued.
the noise of a surf, the Ship was wore. & finding soundings from 20. to 25 faths: course black sand, it was judged the Wisest method to Anchor. accordingly we let go the best Bow. & veer’d to a Cable, it was so thick that although the Discovery. could not be seen, yet common discourse might be heard from ship to ship & they were told to follow our example; at 7. the fog clear’d away, & we were equally astonish’d & thankful on finding our selves not ½ a mile of the Shore in a snug bay, & that we must either have came in between, or very near some rocks, that lie in the entrance of the bay; the narrowness of our escape, & the consequent feelings, made us universally call this providence bay. The No point of which bore N ¾ W. about 2 mile, an Island lying off it N ¼ W. a sandy beach SW, 1 mile. a high rock lying near the South point of the bay SEbS 1 mile, & some small rocks above water E ¾ S, 1 ½ mile, sent the Pinnace to cut grass & Examine the Country.

[Page 238]
Samganoodha Harbour.
Saturday 27th. The first & middle part of the 24 hours cold raw foggy Wr,: the latter part, the fogg. Clear’d away. The pinnace return’d & The Gentlemen reported that the Island was covered with a good soil which yielded a tolerable grass & many other small plants of which they brought different sorts, but there was no appearance of shrubs or trees, except a small willow, they found no shells or shell fish on the beach,; there were scarce any sea fowls about nor any others except two sorts of Eagles. Our Gentlemen perceived signs of inhabitants being here. From the state of the weather we remaind at Anchor till 6AM; when the weather being clear we weighed, & stood round the No point of the bay, & between it & an Island lying off it, which makes a channel of about 2 mile wide, in which were soundgs: from 25 to 30 faths.; we had got but a little way round the point when the wind failing us & the tide being also contrary, we at 10 anchord in 34 faths: the No point of providence bay SEbS 1 mile & the Island off it N22E, 1 ½ mile we saw an open passage to a clear Sea as far as the Eye could see to the NWbW ½ W. dist. about 5, leags: To the Eastwd: of us where different Islands the larger ones having high hills the tops of which were coverd with snow; to the westwd: the land had a very broken appearance & looking either like different Islands, or one Island cut into very deep inlet & bays, on our turning the point we saw some Canoes of the same size & shape as we have lately seen, one or two come towards us, but returnd as if thr’o fear, & the most of them went to assist in towing, round a point to the west, a whale which they had either previously kill’d or found dead on the water; soon after we had anchor’d some of the Canoes with the Natives came along side, made us very respectful bows, they were however shy & soon left us. They had nothing to barter except their fishing implements.

[Page 239]
Samganoodha Harbour.
Sunday June 28th. 1778.
At 1PM. we weigh’d & stood for the passage to the NW. with a light air from the NE. at 4. the point of Providence bay S55E dist 2 leags: at 6 that point bore S45E 3 leags:, & the Extms: of the passage we are going thr’o N49W. to N67W. Soundd; 27 faths: at 8 the wind failing us & the tide setting contrary, came to in 35 faths: sand & shells. the Entrance of the passage N45 ½ W. & N64W. the No point of providence bay S55 ½ E, 3 or 4 leags, the nearest shore 2 miles. To the Eastwd: the same appearance of different Islands as before, but to the westwd: the land as yet seems to form an Island.
At 3AM, with a light breeze, we took advantage of the turn of the tide which runs very strong to get thr’o the passages, & at 7 we brought to, the tide making rapidly thr’o the narrow passage in which we were; we veer’d to a whole Cable in 28 faths: the No point of Providence bay, S54 ½ E. distant 4. or 5 Leagues.
We were under some apprehensions for the Discovery, which seem’d to have got the tide before they were well aware of its force, & which had drove them to the SE, we saw them for some time in a race, & in a situation that made their Vessel perfectly unmanageable we however after a little time saw them stretching clear of danger, & they anchord soon after us, but at a great dist. between 10. & 11 we observ’d them weighing. & standing for the passage.
We found by our log, the tide to run 5 ½ miles P hour. the Sea was still open to the No. & gave us great hopes of proceeding uninterrupted in that direction: however from the break of land on the west shore, it bid fair for a snug harbour; which, as we wanted water, the Captn: resolv’d to examine & go intoit ; we accordingly got the launch out, & at noon weigh’d & tow’d the Ship into the harbour;
Monday 29th, At 2PM. we anchord with the small bower in 8 faths: & steadied the Ship with a small anchor. The East point of the harbour North, the West point NNW. we sent the boat to assist the Discovery, & she came in & Anchord by us at 6.
In the morning began watering the Ship, which we compleated, having fill’d near 30.

[Page 240]
Samganoodha Harbour.
June 29th. tons, by the Afternoon & then hoisted. the Launch in.
30th. At 4 in the morning weigh’d the small Bower Anchor. & carried out hawsers to warp the Ship, but at 8. the wind freshning, were obliged to let go the Bowr: which however was up again in half an hours time; we continued warping & towing as the wind & Tide serv’d till the Evening. –
At day light we renew’d our labour, but it coming on very thick, foggy, nasty weather at 7AM we dropt the Bower & veer’d to half a Cable.
July 1st, The East point of the harbour NNE & the west point NW. about 1 mile. The boats were sent to pick Greens.
2d, First & middle part thick foggy Wr:, latter little wind & clear, at 6AM. weighed with a light breeze at SE, & tow’d out of the harbour with all the boats aheadtowing , at 8, stood out of the passage, the entrance of the harbour bearing S25E, 2 leags: the west point of land making a Bluff head S73W. the NW. point in sight, N13 ½ E hoisted the boats in, Our course & dist. from 8 to Noon NNW 12 miles. Noon Latde 54°.20’N – Longde: 193°.34’ the Bluff head making the NW point of the harbour S17.E, distce 7 Leags: the SW. part of the land in sight S33W. & a high steep head on the farthest land to the NE 70 ½ E.
Before we proceed farther to the Northwd:, in which direction we are very sanguine in our hopes of meeting with no more of Bearings Continent to stop us, I shall give some description of the place we have left, and an count of what intercourse we had with the Natives: Making first one Observation, that we were so much busied in compleating our water & in getting out of the harbour that we had little leisure to look abroad. –
The name of either the harbour or the Island, for which, we cannot possibly say, is Samgonoodha; the watering place near the bottom of the harbour is in Latde:53°.55N Longde:190 having reduced the lunar Observations to this place, & also taken some whilst there. we sup-

[Page 241]
Samganoodha Harbour,
July, 2d, suppose the Error of the Time Keeper to be 15 too little. The entrance is on the west side of a passage, two miles broad, form’d by the points of this harbour & a small Island, thr’o which there appears a clear sea to the Northwd:, off the South point of Samganoodha harbour are a few detach’d rocks, & round the N point the land forms a small bay & sandy beach, the distance between these points is 1 mile, & the direction into the harbour is SSW. for about 2 Mile, & afterward is W for 2 more. off a remarkable bluff head, where the harbour takes this almost right angular direction from its first course, runs a spit of Sand near ½ a mile from the shore with 2 or 3 faths water on it, this is the only danger to be avoided. The Soundings are gradual from 20 in its entrance to 7 off the Bluff head, & then in the west arm from that to 1 faths:, within ¼ mile of the Bottom. The land on each side the harbour is high, broken & in a little inland rises to high detach’d hills whose summits only had some remaining snow on them, To the highest & most peak’d of these hills I went, but had the mortification to be overtaken with a thick fogg, which effectually hindred my seeing the inlets &c. of this & the surrounding Islands; although the lower parts were lost in this thick haze, yet, when I was on the top The Neighbouring Mountains were clear, & I could see none of those in a NWy. direction, from where we conjectur’d that no land was in that line: The tops of the hills are bare & free from Verdure, owing to the melting of the snow carrying away with it what otherwise would grow, for on the top of the peak was a pleasant green spot; by this melting of the snow from those higher parts, the Country is cut into very deep gullies & it may not be improper, to mention an accident that befel me, as a Caution to others; on one of these that was cover’d with Ice & snow I was heedlessly walking and fell in, very providentially, at a little distance I saw an opening & walked under the Ice to it, for the gully was at least 8 feet deep, & a little stream of water run in it; I had no one with me, & it was impossible to have got out of the hole I fell in at: These places must be very dangerous when the Ice & snow is in a melting state, & when all is of a level on these gullies, the sail appeard, towards the top, of a loose black gravelly

[Page 242]
Samganoodha Harbour.
July 2d, nature, but two feet down I frequently observ’d, even some way up the hill. A strata of frozen snow & Ice; in the lower parts it is of a black loamy kind; there is not the smallest appearance of trees or shrubs, except a few Willows & rasberry bushes, which were now only budding, & some in flower. We pick’d for the use of the people, great quantities of angelica, wild pease, sorrel, & some celery, The difference of the Climate & soil here, & about King. Georges. Sound, will not fail to strike one; the nature of this Country concurs in many respects with the accounts given by Authors, of that of Kamchatka.
Besides the Sea birds, we only saw here the same kind of ducks that were in such plenty in Sandwich Sound, & are here if possible still more shy.
of land birds. there are two or three small ones of the wren & Tom tit kind, a small species of grouse, Hawks, Sea Eagles, & Ravens.
of Quadrupeds we saw only Foxes. excepting Halibut we got but few fish; the natives sold us some trout, but the Salmon fishery, which was in such high season in the river, was here not yet come on; the harbour was full of Cod, although we got but few of them, we remark’d that the Halibut sometimes chased them into the shallow water. A few rock & flat fish were also got of the Natives, we purchased a few dried Salmon, preserved since the last season, & dried Halibut of this & the last Year.
The shyness with which we Observ’d the Natives at first to approach us, wore entirely away when we came into this harbour; It admitted no longer of doubt. that the Russians have a frequent & perhaps constant intercourse with these people; one who had upset his Canoe alongside on our coming in & had remain’d all the day on board, knew of Kamchatka, pointed to where it lay & made us to understand him, that from there came people like our selves & others resembling more their own colour; he also gave us to understand that they wore crosses to which they paid a peculiar reverence; this & others knew many Russian words & spake sentences to us in that language, & express’d their surprise at not being understood, till we told them that we came from a contrary

[Page 243]
Samanoodha Harbour.
July 2d, part of the world to Kamchatka; besides these undeniable proofs of their Connections with Russians, they universally were fond of snuff, & all chew’d tobacco which they told us came from Kamchatka; we saw the policy of the Russians in introducing such acquired taste’s which although it may take some pains to make general, yet the trouble is sufficiently paid by the fondness which is contracted for it, & by its becoming a necessary part of their subsistence, & the effects were visible, for the natives had not only. no skins to barter, but it appeared evident that they could not afford any for their own Cloathing, which was almost entirely made of the skins of birds, their women only wearing Seal skin dresses; In these dresses they would have small stripes. by way of ornament of the Sea otter. One man brought the Captn. a Russian note with the same date as the one he received to the Eastwd: this man had in his Canoe a Sea Otter’s skin the only one we saw, but he would not part with it, & kept only pointing to the note & alluding to it in something he said; we saw many even extraordinary effects arising from their communications with more civilized people; all the natives of the different places we had heitherto been at welcom’d us with shouts & many actions of surprize & astonishment; here their behaviour was exceedingly modest & quiet, they exercised their politeness in pulling of the hat & bowing not only to us, but to one another, & all their actions amongst one another were very friendly & chearful. They never shew’d the smallest inclination to theft. although it was often in their power to gratify it. The whole of their behaviour gave us a good opinion of their Masters who seemd to have thought it worth the trouble to correct [their?] passions, & to make them better members of Society, yet there were many appearances of these people being abridged in their freedom, & against whom force must have been used; we scarce saw a bow or any offensive weapon, although they perfectly knew & seem’d well acquainted with the use of what we got in Sandwich Sound they had no large boats that we could see; & we often understood them, that they

[Page 244]
Samganoodha Harbour.
July 2d, were under great subjection to those wh’o came from Kamchatka; it will appear that they were fearful of selling us things, for they had not permission so to do.
Their dress was a frock boots & an outside frock of Gut the same as at Sandwich Sound, & the most of them had holes in their under lip, but few had any ornaments in them; their bodies were very clean as was everything about them, & the boats & fishing implements were exceedingly neat & highly finish’d although we saw no Iron tools amongst them except one knife which every person has about him in a leather case.
Although they brought no women onboard yet some that our gentlemen met with on shore were very civil & most readily granted all the favours the Sex can bestow; we were a little surprised at finding no scruples of this sort amongst them as the Russians could not have encouraged such a practice; & in these cold climates we had not, hitherto, observe’d much desires of this kind; the Men are entirely free from the passion of jealousy, & were in these matters totally unconcern’d. The description of the Men & Women will be the same nearly as at Sandwich Sound, a short well set race of people, large heads, high Cheek bones, small Eyes, a good deal of red in their cheeks & of a brownish hue; as they people keep their faces clean, it is much the fairest part of their bodies being, I suppose, bleach’d by the weather. There were some women that had very regular Oval faces & sweet countenances, but their Eyes are universally small the men have blackish hair hanging down to the shoulder the fore part cut round, & coming near to the Eye brows; The women have their hair long & tied in a bunch at the top of the head. Although the most have holes thr’ough the lip & cartilage of the nose, yet not all wore bone ornaments in them; these ornaments differ a little amongst themselves, & more widely in the Shape & form their Eastern Neighbours, I cannot tell the reason why they were in general more averse to parting with these ornaments then with other things belonging to them; what the men have thrust through the hole in the under lip has the resemblance of two bores tusks, or two pieces of bone 1 ½ Inch long, joining in the middle of the lip &

[Page 245]
Samganoodha Harbour.
July 2d: & then seperating, by means of the tongue they can move these bones, & make them point up or down; others have a single polish’d round bone, shaped like of & the size of a large stud. The women have long bones thr’o the nose & lower lip, & both sexes wear beads & other ornaments in their ears. They were very fond of beads, but preferred those colours & sizes that came nearest to what they had from the Russians, such as blue, white, & brown, about the size of a large pea, these as well as those in Sandwich Sound shew’d a kind of jealousy of our beads being equally good, as they differed from what they had been used to.
The Men are fond of dress, & their frocks made of birds feathers were elegantly ornamented with trimmings of fur & exceeding neat work of difft: coloured leather upon difft. parts, such as I have seen the Esquimaux women do: They would not part with these dresses: but their chief pride is in their Capor hat. This has an oval snout & a rim that surrounds the head; the Whiskers of the sea Cat or sea horse, are stuck all over it & strung with beads a bone image is fixed on the upper end of the snout & behind, which in some is not inelegantly carved, It is a human figure sitting, & not more than 2 inches in height. The women only, have their faces punctuated, which with their bone ornaments disfigures what otherwise would be agreeable if not handsome features.
Some of our Gentlemen in their walk over the hills on the East side of the harbour came to one of their Villages, consisting of seven or eight houses. The men very politely came to meet them, & accosted them with bows & led them to the entrance of their houses, but they thought it was not agreeable to these people, that they should descend in the inside & they therefore contented themselves with looking in; their houses are of an oval form & of different sizes, some of the largest about 40 feet long & 20 broad, appearing about 8 feet high above the ground, but are dug about 5 feet lower than the level; the middle part within seems common, & divisions are made in the sides with raised benches, or places to sleep on. These seperate parts were neatly cover’d with mats, but the middle part part was filthy. on the top of the houses

[Page 246]
Samganoodha Harbour.
July 2d. were mostly two holes; one seemingly to admit the light, & the other was the entrance which admits a post cut in notches so as to serve the purpose of a ladder, the outside of the house is covered with a clayey mould, & grass, which becomes indurated & excludes the wind & rain; the common road is over it to the entrance or ladder, & from the weeds growing about them, & their throwing on the sides & top all kinds of dirt; their houses look rather like small hillocks of old manure. –
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]

[Page 247]

[Page 248]
Weather &c. Friday July 3d. 1778. Obsns:
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & hazey Wr:
4 Do, Wr
8 Fresh breezes & hazey.
10 hauld the wind, in 1st. reef T. sails fresh Gales, double reeft. Top sails
12 Fresh Gales & hazey.
[AM]
1 wore Ship,
2 Small Rain.
3 Wore Ship. broke the M. Fore top Mast Stay sail stay, Strong Gales & thick hazey Wr. handd: Miz. T sail
8 Fresh Gales & hazey.
10 Set the Mizen top sail.
12 Mod & hazey,
[Notes in Column]
PM at 4, The high steep head set at noon S78E 7 Leags. & the SW pt. of the Island S19W. At 6. the steep head S44 ½ E. & a high mountain which from the haziness of the weather we do not join to other land N72°E at 8 no land in sight. ½ past 6, land to the ESE at 8 no land in sight being very hazey. at Noon the land extending from S ½ E. to NEbE, 5 or 6 leags:, The land we are now abreast of is mountainous & coverd with snow, its shores are straight, & do not seem to have bays or harbours in them; the direction of this Coast is NE & SW. that is the same direction of what we saw on the 24th. & we make therefore this a narrow strip of land of not more than 13 leags: bread; was the weather clear we should certainly see some if not all the four remarkable Mountains of which we took Notice & described on the 21st, as we Cannot be more than 13 or 14 Leagues from the Volcano mountain.

[Page 249]
Weather &c. Saturday July 4th 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & hazey with Squalls
4 Mod breezes & hazey,
8 Mod, breezes & hazey, Soundd 45 faths: fine brown Sand. –
12 Do. Wr: back’d, Main T. sail for the Discovery. Made Sail Sounded 45 faths:
[AM]
6 A swell from the WSW.
7 Soundd: 35 faths: black sand.
8 Mod. & hazey.
9 ½ past 9, thick foggy Wr: hauld off Soundgs: from 32 to 30 faths.
11 Calm caught a number of Cod.
12 Light breezes & hazey. made Sail.
[Notes in Column]
PM, at 3 the Eastmost land in sight EbN. at 6 saw high land appearing like an Island bearing East, AM at 2 saw the above Island bearg: S16E at 4 the Island S, & distt. land EbN. at 8 the Extms. of the land from ENE ½ E to S ½ E dist off the nearest shore 7 or 8 Leags. Noon the land extends from S10E to to EbN. & the Island S17W. off the nearest shore 6 leags, this land alth’o mountainous, does not appear to be so much cover’d with snow at least not near the Sea, as either what we saw yesterday, on the opposite shore of which we remarked, many rocks to lay [indecipherable] & the land broken on the 20th, but on the side it appears a straight shore yet it is to be Observed that between the South. extm. now in sight, & which ends in a point, & the Eastmost land seen yesterday in a space of 8. or 10 Leags. where we here saw no land, & that it is not improbable, but there may be a passage thr’o this neck of land to the NW. of halibut Island, yet as we were on the 22d. & 23d. so far from the land on the opposite Coast, this can only be conjecture, The coast still presents the same direction as on its South side.

[Page 250]
Weather &c. Sunday July 5th. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod, breezes & fair Wr. a Swell from the SW. Soundd: 41 fath
4 Hazey Wr:
8 Mod. breezes & hazey. Sounded 43 fats. Sandy bottom
10 Shorten’d sail. Soundd: 43 fath.
11 Shack’d Mizn. T sail for y Discy.
12 Misty Wr. fill’d Mizn. T sail
[AM]
1 Sounded 45 faths.
2 Soundd: from 44 to 42 faths.
4 Light breezes & hazey with small rain, Soundd: 34 faths.
6 Coarse black sand.
7 Soundd. 38 faths.
8 Mod. breezes & hazey, Soundings 38 to 40 faths.
10 drizling rain.
12. Mod. breezes & thick hazey Wr.
Discovery in Co.
[Notes in Column]
A great swell from the WSW. is a clear proof. that there can be no large land in that direction, we therefore take it for granted that no continued continent can exist so far to the westwd: as what Bearing imagind; &. we have given over all hopes to reconcile D. Matty’s map to what we have hitherto seen; our hopes of proceeding to the Northwd: are hal’d in, since it is not possible we can long continue in this direction.
PM at 4, the land which at noon bore EbN. bears S76°E, & which appears a point & dist 9 or 10 leags. at 6 the above point S68,E & the So. land in sight S43E, AM at 5 saw land bearing NEbE ¾ E at 8 the land in sight extending from NEbE ½ E to SE ½ S. about 6 leags. the So.ermost land is a point, & it is to be observ’d that between this point & the East point set at 4PM. there is a space of 10 or 12 leags: that we saw no land the Wr: being hazey, & also being a tolerable dist. from the land; this space will be opposite that part of the coast we saw on the 19th. AM, & when we remarked there being an exceeding deep Inlet Noon the N. point of land in sight N70E, & the nearest point of land EbS ½ S. about 4 Leags. we are opposite the broken coast to the NE of shumagin’s Isle

[Page 251]
Sunday July 5th, Continued.
and are now passed all the very high mountains, none of which we have seen on this side, owing to the constant haziness of the atmosphere.
The remarks we made yesterday of the land, will serve for what we are now abreast off.

[Page 252]
Weather &c. Monday July. 6th, 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & hazey. with small rain
3 Soundd: 36 faths. black sand,
4 Light Airs & Calms,
8 Thick Misty Wr. Soundd: 37 faths:
10 taken aback Soundd: 34 faths.
12 Light breezes & hazey, Soundd: 35 faths.
[AM]
2 Soundd: 37 faths.
4 Mod. & hazey Wr.
8 Do. Wr: Tkd. Ship Soundd: 37 faths. black sand, at 9 sent a boat onboard the Discovery, Sailmakers repairing the old M. sail,
12 Mod. breezes & hazey, Caught many Cod.
[Notes in Column]
Noon, From the state of the weather, could but see the land very imperfectly, as we now caught more Cod. than sufficient for present Consumption, The Captn. put the Ship’s Company to 2/3 of alowance of provisions & the boat was sent to the Discovery for Capt: Clerk. to do the same.

[Page 253]
Weather &c.. Tuesday July 7th. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & fine Wr:
4 hazey Wr.
8 Light breezes & Cloudy. Soundd. 31 faths. black sand. ½ past 8 tack’d Soundd. 29 faths. Sand.
12 Little wind & hazey.
[AM]
4 Light Airs & Calms,
7 Tkd. Sounded 32 faths. black Sand
8 Light Airs & fair,
11 Calm & fair caught. a few Cod.
12 Light winds & fair,
[Notes in Column]
At 4PM. Extm. of the land EbS ½ S & SSE dist 8. or 9 leags: at 8, the Wt. much clearer. Extms: S20E & N57E a deep bay N60E. & another but not so remarkable lies S.60E. AM at 8. The Extm: N71°:E, & S19°:E Noon. Extm. of the land N65 ½ E to So.43E, the deep bay. S.80 ½ E dist. about 9 leags: Excepting the being farther from the shore, we have not this 24 hours altered our situation, much in regard to the land, but we now from the Clearing of the Weather, see more of the nature of it than since our leaving Samganoodha,, the coast is more broken, that what we have hitherto past, & as we have approach’d to the Northwd: snow is free’r from the shore, the direction of the coast, still trending to the NE, & in a line to the unseen parts on the South side of the Great river, gives room to a variety of conjectures, & of hopes & fears.

[Page 254]
Weather &c. Wednesday July 8th. 1778.
[PM]
1 Light breezes & fine Wr.
8 Tkd, Soundd: 20 faths: black Sand
11 Soundd: 19 faths: at ½ past Shortn’d Sail & Tkd. Soundgs. 17. fatm. brought to with MT. sail to the mast. at 1.
[AM]
2 wore Ship & made sail, at 2 Soundgs. from 16 to 21 faths.
4 Light Airs & fair Sounds. from 21: to 23 faths.
6 Sounds: 24 faths. Caught a few Cod.
8 Do, Wr.
10 Sailmakers Empd: as yesterday
12 Hazey Wr:
[Notes in Column]
PM at 4 the Extms: of the land S15E & N62E. off shore 7 Leags.,
Extms: N55 ½ E to S3E, what was set as the N. Extm. at noon & which makes a high hill now bears N59 ½ E, the nearest land dist 4 Leags: the N point of the bay, N72E.
AM at 4. the land from N5E to N55 ½ E dist 3 leags: at 8 the land extending from N57E the Hill set at 8PM. N76E dist from the nearest low land 3 or 4 leags; At noon the Extm: from N61E to S20E, the Hill N83°E dist. from the nearest shore 4 or 5 leags: this black appearance being free’r of snow may possibly be a detached Island; the snowy hills rise inland, & leaves a good space of flattish land by the sea side which in many place’s is free from snow.

[Page 255]
Weather &c. Thursday July 9th. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & Cloudy.
4 Do. Wr:
8 Light Airs & Calms
10 Tack’d Ship.
12 Calm & Cloudy.
[AM]
1 Light breezes.
4 Do, Wr:
6 Hauld more off the land & made the signal for the Discovery to make more sail.
10 & from 19 to 15 faths. from. 10 to 11. 14 & 15 fath.
12 Mod. breezes.
[Notes in Column]
PM. Extms: of the land SE & SSE dist. 6 or 7 Leags: we could see only the land indistinctly.
Extm: N71E & S19E off Shore 7 Leags
Saw a point of land bearing NE as we proceeded we found low land rising a head, & which Oblig’d us to haul off more to the Noward. we saild along the shore which is of a Moderate height & free from snow, till 9 when we pass’d

[Page 256]
Thursday July 9th, Continued.
some low land about 3 leags. distant, & which some of us judged to be an Island, as the higher land on its back had large break’s in it, & one so deep, that from the Mast head one could not see its end, by noon we were abreast of a continued strait shore of a Moderate height, & somewhat Cliffy towards the Sea; we could not perceive any wood, although it had a Verdure on it, & being pretty free from Snow had a pleasant appearance, which perhaps was heightend by the dreary Coast we had lately been accustom’d to; on the back of the level land rose high & craggy hills, which were not in ridges, but detach’d; amongst these are two Conspicuous for being the highest, & one of them for being coverd with snow, whilst the other equally as high, had a black appearance & little or none on it; A high round hill at noon N73°E. the point of low land set at 6 S79°E. 3 or 4 Leagues off. the Etreams North & South. The Change of the direction of the Coast, & which till Yesterday has been almost the same as on the South side of this neck of land, & the Shoaling of the water are to many of us proofs that it will never reach the river, or stretch any farther in a North, Easterly direction.

[Page 257]
Weather &c. Fridayay July 10th, 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod, breezes & fair
2 Unbent the M.sail, & bent the Old one
4 Do, Wr:
8 Do, Wr:
9 Tkd,
[AM]
2 Bore away, & haild the Discy. to go a head.
4 Do, Wr:
8 Mod. breezes & fair
11 Bore away ½ past the Discovery the signal for Shoal water hauld the wind, Tkd. Ship
[Notes in Column]
PM at 1. saw more land bearing NbE which Obliged us to haul still more to the No: we continue running about 3 Leags from the land, which becomes lower & more compact, the shores are full of White Cliffs, although we can distinguish no wood yet there are many pleasant looking spots, we observe a tide to set against us. At 4, the Northermost land in sight N ½ W. the high snowy hill set at noon, N87 ½ E a point of low land S44 ½ E, At 8. we saw some high land bearing N80W. the Snowy hill that bore S77 ½ E we we now Observed the tide to set in our favour, this & other appearances would have been suficient proof of our being near the entrance of some river, or inlet but by 9, we were [accularly?] convinced of it, being stopt in the Course by a low point which bore NNE ½, E 5 miles, round which we Observ’d the river to turn & run in an Easterly direction into the

[Page 258]
Friday July 10th, 1778,
Country; nor was this river or its entrance of any considerable breadth. not more than a League, Thus we were once more stopp’d in our Northerly course, we could trace this river a good way into the Country in its Easterly direction, & it seem’d to preserve the same breadth, as far as we could see, as at its entrance; the land on each side was of a moderate height, or rather low, from our having 11. faths: within 2 leags: of its entrance, & seeing no obstructions in the passage, this River may perhaps be navigable some way in the Country; we could not guess as to its probable course inland, for all the coast from NW. to NE was low & level; the entrance of this river is in Latde. & Longde: It is dist 128. miles in the same paralel of Latde: from the great river opposite; Till 12. we kept our wind, as it came more Northerly, but at ½ past 1, seeing low land bearing NNW. We bore away; At 4AM, the snowy hill bore S76E, the SW. point of the low land N52W, about 2 leags: the Wt.ern Extm: which appeard high N79W, we saw prodigious quantities of Salmon jumping about us, which made some of us wish that we had spent one day in the river, where doubtless we should have got an excellent supply of that rich & wholesome fish. I tryed if they would rise at an artificial fly, but did not succeed, neither would they take any bait, at 8 the low land, set from the Mast head, bore west about 5 leags: dist: at 11, the low point set at 8. N69W. seeing no more land to the SW. bore away, which we had hardly done, before the Discovery made the Signal for Shoal water, on which we hauld our wind, at noon the low point N75W a point farther to the westwd: N80W. the nearest point NW 3 leags: the high land seen last night to the Northwd: N60W. this land is much like that we have left to the Eastwd: & about the river that is generally low, only in different spots, & hummocks of a moderate height.

[Page 259]
Weather &c. Saturday July 11th. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light Airs & fine Wr:
4 Light breezes
8 Hazey Wr.
[AM]
2 Hazey with small rain.
4 Tkd. Ship
6 large flocks of birds about c/y Ship
8 Mod. breezes & thick foggy Wr.
12 Thick foggy Wr.
[Notes in Column]
By ½ past 1. it fell a Calm & perceiving our selves to be in a tides way, & that the Soundings were in all directions irregular, we dropt Anchor in 12 faths: sandy bottom mix’d with Clay; the Wt.ermost point of land N79 ½ W. 3 leags: the No. point N36 ½ W. 4 leags: at 4 a light breeze springing up, we weighed & sent the boats ahead to sound, whilst we steer’d on the ESEterly course we shoald our water to 6 & 5 fatm. but soon after when we steerd S & SbW. we deepend again to 13 faths: whilst we were at anchor we Observ’d the tide to set from the Northwd: at nearly the rate of 2 miles an hour at ½ past 7. the wind becoming less & the tide setting from the So,ward, we Came to with the Best Bower

[Page 260]
Saturday July. 11th. 1778. Continued.
in 16 faths: the weather was so very hazey, that we could see no other land but some high hills that bore N77W.
The tide having slacken’d by 2.AM, we weighed & made sail, we observed that the tide had rose during our Anchoring 12 feet: The fog was so thick, that although we Could not see the Discovery, yet we could hear her motion thr’o the water, & at 9. we haild them to follow our example & to drop their Anchor which we both did in 24 fathm: water, we observ’d no tide here, which we supposed owing to our distance from the land.

[Page 261]
Weather &c. Sunday July 12th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & hazey Wr.
2 Tkd. Ship.
4 Mod. breezes & hazey Wr.
6 Light breezes.
8 Light Airs & [Stble?] with hazey Wr.
9 a swell from the SW.
10 Taken aback
12 Light breezes & hazey with Thunder & Lightning.
[AM]
2 pass’d large beds of feathers
4 Mod. breezes & hazey,
8 Little wind & hazey
12 Light breezes & hazey Wr.
Discovery in Co.
[Notes in Column]
Saw some high land NW ½ N
Saw the land at ½ past bearing NW ½ W.

[Page 262]
Weather &c. Monday July 13th. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & fine Wr.
8 Mod. breezes & hazey
9 Tkd. Ship
12 Do; Wr:
[AM]
4 hauld off the land, sent the boat a head to sound, & the Discovery to lead,
8 Do. Wr:
12 Light breezes & fair
[Notes in Column]
At 1.PM the Wr: fine & Clear, which at last enables us to speak with some cirtainty concerning the land, to which we stood towards at 4, the round hill bore N45W, 4 or 5 leagues, by 8; the round hill, which we now perceive to be an Island, bore N68W. 5 miles, & when we tack’d at 9. it bore N88W. 4 miles & the Extm; S70W. & EbN.; this Island we judge to be 3 or 4 leags; in circuit there are two smaller Islands to the Westwd: of it; the main land between the extm: forms a deep bend or spacious bay. in the bite of which there appears some Openings; the nearest part of the main is of a Mod. height interspersed with hills, & valeys. to the westwd., the land rises into

[Page 263]
Monday July 13th. Continued.
more broken & higher hills, the tops of some of the highest are covered with Snow,; there is a haze over the land to the Eastwd:, which hinders a perfect sight, but it looks to be of the same low land that we saw still farther to the Eastwd: on friday last; although we can see no wood on the land, yet the Sea is covered with great quantities of sticks, small junks of wood, Grass, & feathers, that keep in lines by the direction of the tide, whose influence we perceive our selves to be under, we can only account for the sticks & pieces of wood, by supposing some Rivers in the Neighbourhood, the freshes of which by the melting of the snow, has brought from the interior country, these its productions,
At ½ past 2 shoaling our water suddenly, we hauld our wind to the Eastwd: till we got the cutter ahead to sound, & we ordered the Discovery to lead, after which we again we stood to the SW: at this time the round hill Island. bore N12W. 4 or 5 Miles, & the Wt, Extm: the same as before S79W. at 8. round hill Isld. N15 ½ E, more land to the westwd: & which widens the bay N86W. the other Extm: N22E, at noon the round hill Isld, N45E, last night Wr. Extms. N43 ½ W. the Westermost Extm: N87W. the two Islds: to the westwd: of round hill Island N6°:E & North, the land extending between the present West Extm. & what was set last night is a good deal broken, & also forms a deep bay. we have made use of our trawl & at one haul got up a number of flat fish & some Cod, but did not afterwards succeed so well; beside these we brought up some common round stones, dried sea eggs, & diffit: sorts of crabs.

[Page 264]
Weather &c. Tuesday July 14th, 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light winds & fair.
3 Caught a few flat fish wth: Trawl
4 Do W
8 Do. Wr:
12 Calm & hazey.
[AM]
8 Calm & hazey,
10 people Empd: picking Oakum.
12 Light Airs & hazey.
Discovery in Compy.
[Notes in Column]
Round hill Island N22E. the Wt. extm. No32W. & the Wt.ermost land N69W.
Round hill Island N24E. the point set as the west Extm. yesterday PM. N40W. & the Wt. Extm. in sight N74W.
Noon Round hill Island N35 ½ E the point set as the west. Extm: yesterday PM N24W. & the Wt. Extm. in sight N70W. about 9 Leags.

[Page 265]
Weather &c. Wednesday July 15th, 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light Airs & fine pleast: Wr,
4 Do, Wr:
8 Light breezes
12 hazey Wr. Tkd. Ship
[AM]
4 Calm & hazey.
[Notes in Column]
PM at 8. round hill Island N39E, the Westermost Extm. N77W. & the west as set on the 13, N20W. off shore 5 leags: AM at 4, the west Extm: as on the 13th. N10 ½ W. & the West point N80 ½ W. dist off shore about 4 leag. ½ past it falling calm & finding a tide setting from the SW. at the rate of 2 miles an hour dropt the Sm. Bower in 18 faths: at 8 the tide setting from the NNE which is directly out of the bay, hove up the Anchor, & made Sail; Noon. from the haziness of the Weather, we can see but little of the land, the Extm. of what is seen bears N61 ½ & N25W. off shore 4 leags: The land which we have

[Page 266]
Wednesday July 15th. Continued.
been abreast of, since the 13th. forms two bays, one containd between the Extm, as set that afternoon, three Islands, the Eastmost being the round hill Island, whose conspicious figure has made its bearings so often taken, The distance between these points is near 20 leags: bearing from one another WbS. the Other in the bay, whose Extremities, are the points which have been set as the Western extreems, & which bear from one another SWbW. About 8 Leags. This bay bends in deeper than the other & turns away both to the East & West, the Latitude which makes the western Extremity of one & the Eastern Extremity of the other Bay is & Longitude the land becomes more rugged & off a worse appearance as we approach to the westward.

[Page 267]
Weather &c. Thursday July 16th. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light Airs & fair Wr.
4 Do, Wr:
6 Little Wind & thick foggy Wr.
8 Do Wr: made c/y Signal. Tkd.
9 Fired a gun which was Answer’d ½ past repeated Signal
12 Do Wr:
[AM]
4 Light Airs & hazey.
8 Light Airs & fair Wr:
10 hoisted the Cutter out & sent her on Shore
[Notes in Column]
Found a Tide running to the ENE
Saw the West Extm. as set on the 13 PM. N50E, a small bluff head being the nearest land N18W. 5 Mi.
At noon the Westermost Extm: N34W. the small bluff head set at 5. N44E, the So. Wt. point of the second bay. N61E.

[Page 268]
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]

[Page 269]
Weather &c. Friday July 17th. 1778.
[Metrorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light Breezes & fair Wr;
7 The Boat return’d hoisted her in, pleasant Wr:
12 Light Airs & hazey,
[AM]
4 Light Breezes & hazey.
8 Do Wr.
12 Light Airs & fine Wr.
[Notes in Column]
At 6PM. the Cutter return’d. Lieut Williamson & the Gentm: with him informd us, that from the Top of the Wt.ern high land, they found the Coast round it to take a sudden direction to the Northwd: & to the Ned: it seem’d to trend into large bays. & harbours, the land proved as barren as it appeard; there was a very thin soil on the rocky surface, which was of a black & Clayey nature; towards the top of the hill they ascended, they met with little else than loose stones; in the Valleys, which are neither wide nor extensive, there was a tolerable Verdure of different herbs in Flower, of wild celery, & Cresses, they also saw in the Valleys small Willows, & berry bushes, but neither trees nor other shrubs; in two places in the neck of land, were small ponds surrounded

[Page 270]
Friday July 17th. 1778 Continued.
with sea birds; there were only a few small land birds on the top of the hill; they came suddenly upon a deer with a young fawn, The deer had no horns, & of a moderate size, they seem’d very wild, these were the only Animals seen, alth’o the track & dung of both Foxes & deer were numerous, At the ship we were entertain’d with the sight of many sea Horses & the decayed teeth of these Animals were in great Quantities upon some parts of the shore. Captn: Cook, with great politeness told Mr: Williamson, that the Cape which he was on, should be call’d after the name of any friend of his; it was therefore named in honour of Sir Edwd: Newenham of Ireland, -
At 8.PM, the SW. Extm. of the second bay N54 ½ E the small Bluff head ENE, AM. at 4, Cape Newenham N41E small Bluff head N86E, & the No. land N1°W off shore 5 or 6 Mile Noon Cape Newenham. S36 ½ E, the Northermost Extm: which is a round hummock N8.E a projecting point which is the nearest land N55E dist 5 or 6 Leags:
There are deep bays or inlets on both sides the nearest point, which run into the Eastwd: The Noermost one is much the most extensive, & bends so far in, as to make the land about Cape Newenham, to be either an Island or joining to the main by an istmus; as we pass some small drift wood & grass, we suppose that there may be a river in our Neighbourhood,; During the Calm we have been driven 4 or 5 miles in, towards the North opening.

[Page 271]
Weather&c. Saturday July 18th. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light Airs & fair Wr:
4 hazey Wr:
8 Light Airs
10 Tack’d Ship.
12 Light Breezes & fair
[AM]
4 Do. Wr.
8 Tack’d Ship
12 Light breezes & fine Wr:
Discovery in Compy
[Notes in Column]
At 8, find scarce any tide the Noermost Extm: N9°.E & Cape Newenham S30E dist from the shore 5 or 6 Leags: the wind Obliging us to steer nearer to the shore we soon shoald our water from 15 to 10 faths; on which we tack’d & stood off, by 12 we had deepend to 13 faths: & the wind Caning to the Eastwd: be bore away, steering wide of the direction, of the Coast, at this time Cape Newenham bore S27.E the Northermost Extm: N8 ½ E, a small hill shaped like a sugar loaf. N45 ½ E off shore 4 or 5 Leags. AM at ¾ past 7. shoald our water suddenly to 5 faths; & saw, shoals without us extending from South to NW. which obliged us to haul our wind to the NE we now opend more land to the Northwd: the farthest of which bore N33E, Cape

[Page 272]
Saturday July. 18th. Continued
Newenham S43 ½ E the hill N88E off shore 5 Leags. sent the boats from boath ship to sound a head, & by ½ past 8. We deepend our water, & bore away keeping the Boats a head, At Noon Cape Newenham or the high land about it S33E, the hill S64E dist 4 Leags: from the nearest shore, which is a projecting point that bears S76E.

[Page 273]
Weather &c. Sunday July 19th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod, & Cloudy back’d Mizn. T sail for the Discovery to go a head
4 Light breezes & fine Wr:
5 Made the signal for the Discovery to anchor, & sent a boat to examine the Channel to the Northwd:
[Notes in Column]
At 4PM. we continued our course inclining towards the shore, the boats finding deeper water than farther from the shore Cape Newenham or the high land near it S24E the hill S45E ½ past 4 the boats making the signal for 4 faths: made the Signal for the Discovery, that was a head, to anchor, & for the boats to come on board, which were afterwards sent to examine the Shoals; at ½ past 2 Came to with the small bower in 7 faths: in bringing the ship up, the Cable parted close to the clinch, let go the Bt. Bower & veer’d to half a Cable, Bearings the same as at 4, for the tide running strong, down, we had drove a good distance before the Bt. Bower could be let go, the Extremity of the high land to the No. ward N28E, we see low land extending without this as far as NbW. dist. from 3 or 4 Leags: At 9 it was low water; & we saw our selves almost surrounded with Shoals, To the NW. about a leag: dist, was a bank quite dry; from what we saw & from the boats examining we found that the shoals were to the East & West of us, leaving only to the Southwd: an open space from SSE to SEbS, & the No, ward there was a channel with 5 faths: water open between NbW. & NWbN. through this opening the the tide ran somewhat more than 2 miles an hour, About 4AM, it was high water we began with the assistance of the boats from both Ships, to sweep for our small Br: Anchor.
Two small skin Canoes, like those before seen, came within a ¼ mile of the Discovery. & returned again onshore; we thought the tide was to strong for them,.
The bearings of Cape Newenham, & the farthest land we see to the No,ward will be nearly [indecipherable] & allowing variation No & So. from each other, & distant about 27 Leagues, The Northermost land lying in Latitude 60°, Longde: 197°. 40E, We have Observed that to the Northwd: of Cape Newenham, the coast runs in to the NNE, & forms deep bays, & inlets, but from

[Page 274]
Sunday July 19th, Continued.
The Latitude of 59°: the land has a direct course No to 59°.30’ where it bends in, considerably, alth’o gradually; we however could distinguish nothing like a harbour along the Coast to the Northwd: of 59, all this Coast is equally as high as that about Cape Newenham. & the height of the hills may be judged, by our seeing them very plain although 20 leags: dist.; There is no snow upon what we now see,, & the whole has a pleasant verdant appearance; The land by the sea side appears of a Moderate height, & the hills rise gradually higher as they are more distant, we could not be sure that we saw any wood growing although there were black patches that had much the appearance of small wood, we did not succeed this fore noon in finding our Anchor.

[Page 275]
Observations on Monday 20th, July 1778.
PM we got hold of the anchor, but an expert diver offering to go down to see in what manner our hawsers had hold of it, he accordingly dived & coming up told us that we had only swept a rock, upon the faith of which the hawsers that could not be disengaged were cut; In the Morning considering the improbability of a small rock being just situated in the one spot where we might expect the Anchor to be & there being no rocks any where else we thought, rightly enough, that the fellow might be deceived; we therefore set to work again & soon swept the same thing, which we were now determind to endeavour to purchase, & accordingly, after getting the clinch of an 8 inch hawser over it, & bringing one end to our Capstern, we in the afternoon hove & brought the Anchor up to the bow’s.
21st, Whilst this fatiguing duty was carrying on, the Cutters, with the Masters, were sent to examine the shoal to the SW. & to see if we could find a passage in that direction; but they return’d after having gone a considerable way to the Southwd without without at all being able to find sufficient water for the Ships any where to the Wt.wd: finding not more in any Swt.erly direction, than 6 & 4 feet water, The Anchor being stow’d & the Boats return’d we hoisted them in, & at 4PM, weigh’d the Bt. Br; & steerd so as to go down by the way that we came up; we however had the caution to send the Boats ahead to sound, by 7. we shoald from 7. to 5 faths. & the Boats made a Signal for shoal water, on which we immediately came to; at this time a strong tide was running down; The Boats came suddenly on a shoal with only 5 feet water on it about ½ a mile to the westwd: of us; Sugar loaf Hill bore SEbE ½ E, the point that was the Northern extream on the 17.th. NE ¾ N. We were here Visited by by 24 skin Canoes, with [indecipherable] men in each, wh’ich came from the land to the Northwd. of

[Page 276]
Observations on the 21st. July. 1778.
us; They were very vociferous & barbarous in their Manners; after a few signs of frienship on both sides by the extending their Arms, they came along side, & barter’d a few pieces of Fox & martin skins, with their Caps, boots, gloves, & implements of war & fishery, for nails & beads; in this barter they often tryed & sometimes succeeded in cheating us, & made off with the price of goods that they would not deliver up, they were as savage in their general appearances & countenances as lawless in their actions. we seemd to strike with no awe or superiority, but the Contrary, & their general manner was contemptuous, resembling those in Sandwich Sound, as they also do in size & shape; only that these seem’d to have a wilder look manner, & were a poorer looking people in their dress &c. every one of these had his hair cut very short, & many of them wore a Cap, or rather cawl, on the crown of his head made of a speckled mouse or rats skin, that is common in all this part of America; there were some that had a lack of hair left long, & from this, & a resemblance of a flat tartarian face, with high Cheek bones, and a smallish eye, made some of our Gentlemen conjectur’e them to be a tribe sprung from the Chinese,. Their colour did not differ from those at Sandwich Sound & Samganooha. After remaining an hour with us, they went all to the Discovery, but neither with us nor on board there would any venture on board indeed as they are single in their Boat they could not well leave them. The striking difference between the manners of these people & those at Samganoodha, shew that here they have never seen Russians; it is not necessary that they should have had a personal knowledge of them because they are acquainted with the use of Iron & know beads. these had holes in the lower lip & had bones in them; we saw no Sea Otter Skins amongst them; there dress were chiefly of hare & martin skins & the speckled mice; they had the gut frock over their other jackets. at ½ past 11, weighed with the Boats ahead at Noon the NE. extream set at Anchor. NNE ½ E., the Hill S63E, off shore 4 or 5 Leagues;
22d, We kept steering to the SE with the wind at WbN. expecting to meet with a better Channel nearer in shore than the one we came up, & in this Idea we imagin’d ourselves

[Page 277]
Observations Wednesday July 22d. Continued. 1778.
22d, right. by our deepning our water to 15 faths: but by ½ past 1. we shoald our water again to 5 faths., on which we hauld our wind to the SSW. carrying from 5 to 7 faths: & having the boats always a head; by 3, we observ’d the tide to set against us, on which we let go the Bt. Br, in 7 faths, the Hill shap’d like a sugar loaf bore S62 ½ E & the nearest point of the low land East dist 3 Leags. at 6 the tide being slack, weighed, & the wind springing up from the SSE, we were obliged to work to windward, & make short boards in the Channel between the reef, which stretches about 2 leags: from all this part of the Coast, & a reef to the westwd: of us, & which lies between our present track that we made going up. This Channel is about 4 miles broad, we stood on each side to 6 faths; water & in the middle had 13,. At 8 Cape Newenham S29E, the hill S63 ½ E, & the No. Extm. set on the 17th. at noon N31 ½ E – at 9 we Anchord for the night, Cape Newenham bearing SSE ½ E, & the hill E ½ S, off shore 3 leags. At 6 AM. weighed & stood to the SbW. close on a wind which was SEy: we cross’d our track in going to the Northward, & we soon expected, having by that circumstance got to the southwd: of the middle shoal, to get into a deep & clear sea, but by ½ past 9 we shoald our water from 17. to 7 faths: the Boats made the signal for shoal water & we onboard saw a ripling which the tide made upon the shoal ground; we therefore tacked & stood to the ENE sending the Discovery’s boat ahead of us; the above shoal is a Continuance of the western shoal that we observ’d when to the Northwd. at noon we dropt our Anchor, finding the tide against us. the Hill N63E, the N. Extm. (on the 17) N17E off shore 5 or 6 Leag.
23d, Mod. breezes & hazey Wr: at 5 PM. we weighed & steer’d close hawld to the Southwd: with the wind EbN. the boats a head sounding at 8 Cape Newenham bore S49E, 5 or 6 Leags: the hill N46E, & the Northermost Extm: N13½ E, at 10 we shortened sail for the night. ½ past 11, Cape Newenham bore ESE 7 Leags: soundings from 19. to 22 faths: at ½ past 2AM [with?] be fresh breeze EbN. we bore away & steerd SSW. at 4 Cape Newenham

[Page 278]
Thursday July 23d, 1778, Continued.
23d, S79E dist 7. Leags: Noern Extm: N50E, at 5 we shoald our water to 9 faths. which made us a gain hawl our wind to the SSE, when we deepend our water at 8. Cape Newenham N69.E dist 8 Leags.
At noon a strong breezes & hazey we could only see Cape Newenham which bears N39E, dist 11 leags., as we have at last got clear of these shoals, & are forced to quit the sight of the coast, I shall, before I begin the log, take a general view of our Navigation since leaving Samganoodha harbour, & which has been to us a third disappointment in our attempts to get to the Northwd: D. Matty’s map as well as that in muller’s, are totally irreconcileable to what we have seen; as we have already saild over a great space where Muller places a Continent, we can no longer frame any suppositions in order to make our Charts agree with his; & the land about St. John’s, which both Behring & Techirhow fell in with, can be only Islands, nor are they of any great extent, since we have always observ’d the only great sea & swell to come from the S.W.; There is no saying positively that Dr. Matty’s map is equally faulty, since he places a chain of Islands to the 66, degree of Latitude, only that as far as we yet can judge, there never was a map so unlike what it ought to be.
The SW point of the narrow Peninsula, the So side of which we coasted before our Arrival at Samganoodha, & the No. side, afterwards, makes with Cape Newenham, the Extm. point of a very large bay, these bear from another N23E & So 23W. dist; 85 Leags: in the bottom of this bay is a river whose direction & breadth we have mentioned when within a few miles of its entrance; Cape Newenham bears. W 3° N. from it, and is about 46 Leags, distant, whilst the other Extremity of the bay. is distt: from it 110 leags, in the direction of S55°:W.
The Latde. of Cape Newenham is 58.40 No. & Longitude determined by many Lunar Observations 197°.42’ Et. The Peninsula from 54°: ½ to near 57° of

[Page 279]
Thursday July. 23d 1778. Continued.
23d. of Latitude, where its breadth is only from only 10 to 15, leags, only is, as we have observ’d, composed of very high Mountains, remarkable in figure, & from the Wt,ermost of them being a Volcano, & also from their being entirely covered with snow. The South part of this Peninsula has many Island extending from its shores the whole coast is very much broken, & of an exceeding rugged & barren appearance.
On the No, side, the Coasts are more even, hardly any Islands off it, & more free from snow,, I have before observ’d, that this Peninsula may it self be only a congeries of Islands; it is of little moment to us, or to Geography, whatever it be. In the 57 degree of Latde, the Continent begins to widen very considerably & as we approach to the river in 58 ½ , the land assumes a much more favourably appearance the hills grow less, & the snow melts away, till the land becomes only of a Moderate height, of a verdant appearance, & entirely free from snow; It continues this appearance for some way to the west of the river; when it begins to rise higher, becomes more broken, & about Cape Newenham is of a rugged, barren, & black appearance, but almost entirely free from Snow, The Coast to the No.ward of Cape Newenham its direction & its extent as far as we saw, & its appearance, has been touch’d upon & also the causes that hinders us from proceeding along in sight of the Coast: That we might have proceeded farther, is very certain, but none, I believe, suppose that it would have led us into any open sea, but only into some other river, or amongst dangerous shoals in the entrance of it. whoever will reflect on what we have already encountered for these last 5 days, will allow that we have been in no small danger, which might have prooved very serious, had not the weather all that time been remarkably fine. –

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[Meteorological Observations not recorded]

[Meteorological Observations not recorded]

Weather &c. Obsn: Friday 24th July 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & Cloudy Wr.
4 Mod. breezes & Cloudy.
8 Do, Wr.
12 Do, Wr:
[AM]
4 Do. Wr:
8 Do. & foggy with small rain,
10 Many sea Otters & seals about the ship – Cleand between Decks. Light Breezes & Cloudy.

[Page 284]
Weather &c. Obsns: Saturday July 25th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & hazey Wr:
4 Do, Wr.
6 small rain.
8 Hazey Wr:
12 Do. Wr:
[AM]
4 Do. Wr:
6 Thick misty Wr, backd the mizn: T. sail for the Discovery
8 Do, Wr. fill’d the Mizn: T sail,
11 The Discovery fired a gun. Answerd it, Mod. & thick foggy Wr:

[Page 285]
Weather &c. Obsn: Sunday July 26th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & thick foggy Wr:
4 Do. Wr:
7 Fired 2 Guns as a signal to the Discovery. Answerd. Bore down to her. thick foggy Wr.
12 Do, Wr.
[AM]
4 Do. Wr.
5 Many whales about [indecipherable] Ship.
6 Light breezes & hazey.
[Notes in column] Weigh’d & made sail.
8 Foggy Wr.
10 large flocks of birds upon the Water.
12 Light Airs & hazey.
[Notes in column] Anchord with the Bt. Bower in 30 ½ faths: & veer’d to ½ Cable

[Page 286]
Weather &c. Obsn: Monday July 27th. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]

[PM]
1 Light breezes & Cloudy. a number of whales about the Ship.
4 Light Airs & Do.
8 Light Airs & thick foggy Wr:
12 Light Airs taken aback,
[AM]
2 foggy at times.
4 Light breezes & foggy.
8 Mod. breezes & hazey.
12 Mod. breezes & thick, foggy Wr.
Discovery in Compy.

[Page 287]
Weather &c. Obsn: Tuesday July 28th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & foggy Wr.
4 Do. Wr:
8 Do. Wr.
12 Do, Wr: tack’d Ship,
[AM]
2 Tkd. Ship, back’d the Mizn. T sail for the Discovery.
4 Fresh breezes & Clear Wr.
8 Do. Wr.
10 A great many Whales & birds about the Ship.
12 Mod, breezes & fair Wr:

[Page 288]
Weather &c. Obsn: Wednesday July 29th. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & hazey Wr:
2 Thick foggy Wr: In 1. reef T sails
4 Do, Wr:
6 Fresh Gales & thick foggy Wr:
7 Split the Jibb. unbent it & bent an other, Do. Wr:
11 Tack’d Ship.
12 Do. Wr:
[AM]
2 Wore Ship,
4 Mod. breezes & hazey
6 Fair Wr.
8 Cloudy the Sounding coarse brown gravel.
11 Tkd, Ship,
12 Thick foggy Wr:
[Notes in column] At ½ past saw high land bearing WbN.
The land [indecipherable] appear’d as an Island extending from W ½ S. to WNW. dist about 4 leags: the No. point ending in a very high bluff head, A great number of Divers, & sea parrots about the Ship, when we tack’d, the No. point as set before N15E, the Wt. Extm: in sight WbS, the nearest point N42W. 2 Miles at 12. the No point N45W. & the point set for the nearest pt. at 11, N80W. 5 Miles.

[Page 289]
Weather &c. Obsn: Thursday July 30th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light Breezes & thick. Wr: with small rain.
4 Do; Wr; sent a boat on board the Discovery,
6 Tack’d Ship.
8 Do. Wr:
9 Made the signal & wore Ship.
10 Hazey Wr: -
12 Do. Wr:
[AM]
3 Clear at times
4 Light breezes & hazey.
8 Thick foggy Wr:
12 Do Wr.
[Notes in column] the No: extm: as set at noon N44W. & a small high Island laying off the West extm: S73W. 2 Leagues.
the No. Extm: N38W. dist 2 leags.
the No. Extm: NW ½ N. 2 or 3 Leags,
the No Extm: NWbW. 5 leagues.
Saw the Wt:ern Extm: bearing W ½ S.

[Page 290]
Weather &c.. Obsn: July 31st. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light Breezes & foggy Wr.
4 Light Airs fired two swivels as a signal to the Discovery. & anon Ship
8 Light Airs & hazey.
12 Mod. breezes & hazey
[AM]
4 Do. Wr:
6 Thick hazey Wr. out all reefs.
8 Fresh breezes & Cloudy.
10 Made the Discovery’s Signal to make more sail.
12 Fresh breezes & Cloudy.
Discovery in Compy

[Page 291]
Weather &c. Obsn: Saturday, August 1st. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & hazey Wr:
4 Do. Wr.
8 Do. Wr:
12 Do. Wr:
[AM]
4 Mod breezes & Cloudy, pass’d by the [leaddy?] of a large tree
6 Light Airs & [Atble?] passed a good dea of drift wood most of which seem’d to have been long in y water
9 at 8. Light Airs inclinable to Calms, a swell from the SW.
11 Sent a boat on board the Discy: unsetted Wr: in 1st. reef T sails
12 Do. Wr. Saw 2 wilde Geese.

[Page 292]
Weather &c. Obsn: Sunday Aug 2d. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & Cloudy Wr.
4 Do. Wr:
8 Do. Wr. tack’d Ship.
12 Squally with rain,
[AM]
4 Fresh breezes & Cloudy.
6 Much drift wood passing us, hard rain Tack’d Ship.
8 Little wind with rain,
9 Out 1st. reef. of Main & Mizn T sails a head sea & a tide setting to the Eastwd: drift wood passing us
12 Some trees appear’d to have been lately broke off, saw 2. Geese

[Page 293]
Weather &c. Obsn: Monday August. 3d: 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Little wind & hazey. with a swell from the Northwd:
4 Calm with light Airs at times
6 bore down to the Discovery.
8 Light Airs & hazey with small rain.
10 Cloudy
12 Light breezes & Cloudy.

[AM]
2 Bore down to the Discovery.
4 Do, Wr.
6 Out 1st; reef F.T. sail.
7 Saw 2 birds supposed to be Shaggs, & some Gulls
9 at 8. Mod & hazey with rain.
10 Cleand between Decks
11 Fair Wr. People Empd: pickg: Oakum
12 Light Winds & Cloudy.

[Page 294]
Weather &c. Obsn: Tuesday August 4th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & hazey Wr,
4 Do, Wr:
[Note in Column] Saw low land bearing W ½ N. dist about 8. Leags: The land bore S84W.
8 Fresh breezes & hazey. In 1st. reef of the T sails.
10 Shortend Sail
12 Fresh breezes & hazey.
[AM]
2 Squally, with small rain haild the Discovery to make sail a head & sound.
5 at 4, Do. Wr. made sail
7 Fresh Gales & hazey wh: rain,
9 pass’d by a large tree, it had no bark on it.
12 Fresh gales & hazey wh: rain
Discovery. in Compy
[Note in Column] Saw low land bearing W ½ N. dist about 8. Leags: The land bore S84W.

[Page 295]
Tuesday August 4th, 1778 Continued
At ½ past 3PM. died Mr: Anderson our Surgeon: his decline was too rapid, since our leaving the Society Islands, not to be observable by all; but he himself, long before that time, knew that his lungs were affected; & his sound knowledge in the Physical art, would not suffer him to entertain that hope which seems to be sent as a constant companion to consumptive people, in compassion to our nature, to hide from them the insupportable Idea of so gradual a dissolution; Very happy for himself, & a pleasing melancholy l reflection to his friends, he had little reason from past actions to give a false [byass?] to his professional Judgment; he foretold, for a year before his Death, the different stages of his disorder, & knew the time nearly of his existence; & yet so very little an alteration had this on the equality of his temper, & the serenity of his mind, that his Messmates knew nothing of his complaints, till his emaciated body gave occular proofs of them; So much true fortitude, in such trying situations, I will venture to say. will never be surpassed if equall’d, & which arose not less from a conscience at ease, then in the hopes resulting from a firm belief of revealed religion: his death is a sad loss to his friends & relations, but a still greater to the public, for his knowledge was by no means confined to that part belonging to his profession; it took in all natural objects; his application was constant, & regular, & far too great for his health; the spirit & temper with which he applyed & studied the the different sciences of Natural history, & of the human specie, that came within his inspection in the course of the Voyage, was such as must give a real pleasure to good men & men of science; & which might be perfectly relyed on., he was the free est from that narrow confind spirit, which is fond of hiding its light under a bush, of any man I ever knew; most ready at all times to inform others of what his superior knowledge of the natives made him better acquainted with. Although he was himself much dissatisfied with his endeavours, Yet I am sure, his friends will only lament that his sad state of health hindred him compleating his plans, & the public at large will be the looser that he did not live to end the Voyage; & this the more, as he has left no person in, I believe, either of the Ships, that can even on a small scale continue in making

[Page 296]
Tuesday August 4th, 1778. Continued.
observations on the objects of natural history, that may occur; If we except our Commander he is the greatest public loss, the Voyage could have sustaind; The Island which we saw 3 hours after the Death, the Captn: call’d after the deceas’d as we saw no land in the morning the d body was committed to the deep, otherwise the Captn. h wish’d to have enterred it on shore

[Page 297]
Weather &c. Obsn: Wednesday August 5th 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & thick hazey Wr.
2 Made the Discovery’s signal to keep a head & sound. Much drift wood passing by us, the Discovery made the signal for seeing land
6 at ¾ past 3 tack’d ship in 12 fat.
7 Made the Discoverys signal to Come under our stern.. Thick hazey Wr:
11 Hazey Wr:
[AM]
2 Squally with rain.
4 Mod. & very hazey.
8 Do. Wr:
9 hoisted out a boat & sent her on board the Discovery.
10 at 10 when the boat returnd made sail & Tkd.
12 Mod & hazey.
[Notes in Column] Saw the land bearing from No. to WNW. dist 6 leag: the Westermost land ending in a high Bluff head. bore W ½ S, & some low land extending to the NE, as the soundings became irregular, it was judged prudent to Anchor which we did at ½ past 7. In 13 fath: soon after the Wr. becoming a little clearer we saw an Island. which although nearer to us than the Main yet we had not before seen, it bore WbS, & the Wt. high Bluff of the Main NWbW ½ W. At 2 AM found a strong tide setting to the WSW. At 9 weighed in order to Anchor between the Island & the main till the Wr. cleared up we carried from 13 to 9 [faths?] At Noon the Extm: of the main from NEbE ½ E to NW ½ W. & the So end of the Island. SSW ½ W. about 2 miles; Latde. 64.7 Long 194°:

[Page 298]
Weather &c – Obsn: Thursday August 6th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & thick hazey Wr hoisted the Boats out & sent them a shore
8 The Boats returnd.
[AM]
4 Mod. breezes & Cloudy.
5 Tack’d Ship.
6 Fair Wr:
8 Light breezes & hazey
10 out all reefs
12 Cloudy Wr. & hazey at times
Discovery in Comp.
[Notes in column] At ½ past noon Came to with the Bt. Bowr. in 7 fath. & veer’d to ½ a Cable, the wind SbW. & the weather hazey, the body of the Island bears SbE ½ E & the main extends from N55°W. to N58°:E. the Captn. went onshore upon the Island, the shape of which is somewhat Singular,It being pyramidical & its base making a square, the length of whose side, may be ½ mile, we landed upon the only small flat piece of ground, which was opposite the Ship, on the shore of the Island; the hills rising in all other parts Abrupt. whilst the boats crew were cutting grass on this flat patch, on which grew also angelica, wild pease, celery & on the Beach Mugwort. (All

[Page 299]
Thursday August 6th. 1778 Continued.
which we carried on board the Captn. & my self walked up to the top of the hills, on the sides of which are huge rocks & stones thrown one upon another, so as to have an extraordinary appearance between some of the stones was sometimes loose mould collected & at other places soft & thick moss fill up the spaces; the top of the hill, which was a flat surface, was also plentifully strewed with large stones. the other parts of its surface was in many places bare, in others moss & in a few places where the water has been preserved, was surrounded with a loose black turfy soil; we saw a flock of plovirs but could get no shot at them, & we only kill’d a small bird; we saw one fox that appear’d very. lank, on the flat spot where we got the grass, we were soon convinced that, barren as this Island is, it is visited, for we trod on something that had better been avoided, & the people afterwards found amongst the grass a sledge; it was neatly shod with bone & came with a curve to the fore part, three arch’d pieces of timber were let into the sledge, which supported the seat made of small pieces lashed cross ways like lath work, which extended the whole length of the sledge & was 4 inches narrower to the bottom of the sledge; the seat was 10 feet long & a foot & ½ broad, the shape of which made us suppose that it was rather a provision s sledge, than for people to ride in, a rail work went along the seat, the different parts were fastend togather with whale bone & sinews, & neatly executed; there was also some part of the little drift wood burnt, & on the opposite side of the Island a few poles sticking up, which we supposed they might cover with skins, & so make a temporary habitation, it was by by no means favourable [indecipherable] to have an extensive view of the opposite land, we however saw an extensive flat Country with a number of ponds that mostly ran parallel to the sea & not far inland the hills rise a considerable way back & were lost in the haze we saw some posts & what we supposed some Indian Villages; the Country had no snow upon it, & look’d green and pleasant, but not the least appearance of a tree or shrub, we differ as to opinion p of what the land may be; the Captn, with great reason supposes it a continuation of the land we left

[Page 300]
Thursday August 6th. 1778. Continued.
to the Northwd: of Cape Newenham, although we are 4 degrees to the Northwd: of what we then saw, & this from our finding the water to shoal in going to the Eastwd:, & from our Observing the tide to run constantly to the westwd: although by the shore it rises & falls; which seem to require in order to account for it some large river to the East, the circumstance of the sledge is also some proof that the opposite land is the Continent; for it proves that the natives have dogs, which we did not find at Samgonoodha, although we did at Sandwich Sound; seeing it here serves also to prove that the sea between this small Island & the main, a dist of 2 leags: or more, is frozen over in the winter, The map of stelling places the large Island of Alashka in this latitude & therefore many suppose this to be it.
We return’d on board in the Evening with the boats well loaded with grass & vegetables, during our absence some changes had taken place in consequence of the Death of Mr: Anderson, Mr; Law Surgeon of the Discovery taking his place, & Mr. Samwell our Dr. mate here went on board that sloop in the room of Mr Lane –
At 3AM, weighed & made sail, at 7 saw more land to the NW; at [indecipherable] the Westermost land in sight N28W. 7 or 8 leagues, & the Island S72E. 2 or 3 Leagues, Noon the West Extm: as set at 8. N11.W. off shore 3 or 4 leags: it being so hazey to the Eastwd; could not see the land to set it.

[Page 301]
Weather &c. Obsn: Friday August 7th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & thick misty Wr.
4 Calm & thick foggy Wr.
6 Little wind.
7 Tkd. Ship
[AM]
4 Light Breezes & hazey.
6 Hoisted the Pinnace out & sent her to sound found 7. & 8 fatm. for a Mile round
8 Light Breezes & foggy
12 Light winds & thick foggy Wr.
[Notes in column] At 1PM. saw an Island bearing N85W. dist 7. or 8. Leag. at 4 the Extms: of the main from East. to NbE the Island we Anchor’d off S70E off. shore about 4 Leags:
At 6 the Extms. of the main from N20E to S75E & the Island seen at 1. o clock S82W at 7 when we tack’d Ship. saw more land to the westward bearing NW ½ W. at 8. Anchord with the Bt. Br. In 7 faths. & veer’d to ½ a Cable
The Island to the westwd: S70W. 6 leags; the west part of the main N52°W. the west point of the low land N25W. the west extm. set at noon N22W. the Et. part of the main S75Et. & the Island we anchored under S.64E off shore 4 or 5 Miles

[Page 302]
Friday August 7th. 1778 Continued.
We Anchord because of the night, & from Observing that the tide set us near the land into shoal water, we this afternoon passed another Indian Village, or at least what we take to be such; we could see but indistinctly the form of their houses, & indeed only judge certain riseings to be them, from their being surrounded with post’s, & with the teeth of Sea Horses, & bones of Whales stuck into the Earth. What we could see of the main land, from the hills of sledge Island to the Eastwd: had an ENE direction by Compass, & from the Main a little to the Northwd: of that Island to the nearest point, the direction of the coast is WNW. & SSE, the Sea Coast has not the smallest break but runs perfectly strait to this nearest point, but the coast appears to run more to the Northwd: & to form a bay with the west Extm:
The land for a good way back, is low & level, & rises gradually to the hills, which are seen one above another as far as the Eye can reach; no appearance of trees & shrubs: during the night the current ran to the NW. following the direction of the coast, At 6AM.sent the Boat to sound, found. 7. & 8 faths: ½ a mile all round the Ship. At 8.AM weighed & made sail

[Page 303]
Weather &c. Obsn Saturday August 8th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & thick hazey Wr.
2 Tkd. Ship
4 drizling rain. Tack’d Ship.
8 Fresh breezes with rain. In 1st. reef Topsails
12 Fresh breezes with hard rain
[AM]
2 hard rain with little wind at times, shoald our water bore away. thick hazey Wr. with rain
12 Fresh breezes & hazey.
[Notes in column] At 4PM. it clear’d away a little & gave us a sight of the land; what we judged to be the western extremity yesterday at Anchor bore N22W. & the westermost land in sight N50W. which is detach’d from the other, at 8. the above point of land bore N36W & N55W. off shore 3 leags:
½ past 2AM, we bore away for what we supposed some opening or between the points set last night, but shoaling our water at ½ past 4. hauld our wind; the thick weather clear’d away so as to enable us to see the land, bearing NWbW, to formg a bay; the Island to the SbW.
Coming on little wind, & finding that the Current set us fast on shore, we Dropt anchor in 12 fath; the westermost Extm. making a high peak’d

[Page 304]
Saturday August 8th. 1778. Continued.
hill N80W. the Eastermost Extm: which is the west point of the bay N48 ½ E, the nearest point of the shore NNW 2 miles & the Island S10W.
At 8. weighed & made sail, & stood on towards the land in order to determine whether it afforded a good shelterd place. but we found it only a deep bight, low land connecting the high Bluff Capes that are about this part of the Coast, & which has therefore a different appearance from the land to the Southwd:
At 10 we stood away to the westwd: for that extremity of the main, which makes one bluff point, & which at noon bore N65W. the other extremity E ½ S. the nearest part N11.Et, 3 miles, & the bluff, point about 4 leags. dist. the Island to the westward SbW. 6 Leags. The direction of the coast from this bight to the west Extremity is WbN. from the bight to the coast opposite our anchoring place on the 7. Its direction is NNW ½ W. & SSE ½ Et. -

[Page 305]
Weather &c Obsn: Sunday August 9th 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod breezes & hazey Wr.
4 Fresh breezes & hazey with rain Tack’d Ship
8 Fresh breezes & rainy Wr:
12 Do. Wr.
[AM]
4 Light Airs & hazey.
8 Squally. split the Mizn. T, sail unbent it. In 1st. reef of the T. sail Bore down to the Discovery. at 9, fresh gales & squally with rain wore ship set the main Sail, unbent the Top sails and bent others at 12. Do. Wr. wore ship.

[Notes in column] PM. at 4, saw a high steep rock bearing S88W. & also more land stetching to the NW. & which bore N2E the Bluff point N18E dist off shore 2 leags: we continued working to windward in very thick and dirty weather keeping the lead constantly going; as we approachd the low point that makes the western Extremity, our water shoald, but which, from the thickness of the weather, we did not see till 9 when we were about 3 Miles from it in 10 fath, we stood in for the land intending to Anchor close to leward of the low point that

[Page 306]
Sunday August 9th. 1778. Continued.
runs off & which with the present wind would have sheltered us, but when within 1 ½ mile we shoald our water to 5 faths: rather suddenly, which Obliged us to stand off again till we deepend to 17. faths: when we let go the Best Bower; we could see but little of the land till 4 AM. when we saw the high steep rock bearing N52W. an other & larger Isld. to the Northwd: of it WbS ½ S, the bluff point S59E, & the point of low land, which is the west extremity of the main N29E a remarkable peak’d hill bore S84E off shore, 4 miles, a great hollow swell set in upon the shore, & the weather look’d lowering, we therefore got under way at 8; but we saw that the Discovery had great difficulty in weighing the Anchor ½ past 11. saw the low land bearing from ESE to EbN.
Noon the Island WbS ½ S. 4 leags: high rock SWbS, & some part of the land near the peaked hill SEbE ½ E, The land near which we were at anchor. is but a narrow flat sandy slip that projects out into the sea, on the flat main land & joins this to the hills, which begin to rise at some distance from the sea side; we saw several Villages i & like the others they had about them post’s erected, & long bones as we imagine for the purpose of drying their fish & nets; we saw none of the Natives; Although the form of the Country was agreeable enough, the hills rising gently, & there being extensive grounds of level country, yet the brown appearance of what the soil produced look’d poor.

[Page 307]
Weather &c Obsn: Monday August. 10
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Strong gales & hazey wh. rain
2 set the Main top sail double reef’d & fore top sail close reeft down top Gt. Yards, at 2 bore away. to the westwd:
6 at 4 hard squalls.
8 Do, Wr.
11 more moderate
12 Do, Wr.
[AM]
2 Wore Ship
4 Fresh gales & Cloudy. Set the Main sail & mizn. Top sail
7 Mod. & fair out all reefs
12 Light Breezes & fine Wr.
[Notes in column] PM at 2 we bore away for the Island; the Capt. thinking he might find, under the [lee?] of it, sufficient shelter against the bad Weather & strong gales; but as we approach’d it we found that what we had taken for one tolerable sized Island, was two Islands, & the passage between them, which might, in Easterly or Westerly winds, afforded good shelter, was in the present case open; at 4 we were under the lee of these Islands, & within a mile and a half of the East & & smallest one; at this time the high rock bore S.E about 3 leagues. these Island are [barr?] on spots

[Page 308]
Monday August 10th. 1778. Continued.
with very little verdure on them, at 6 the high rock bore E ½ N. & the Islands extended from NbE to NE 3 or 4 Leags. At 7 we saw more land to the WbS at at 8 its Extm. were SW ½ W. & NW. & at 10. the So. Extm: of the land bore SW, & the No. point of a deep bay WSW 3 Leags. At 4AM the Extms. of the land from NNW ½ W to SWbW ½ W. & the pt. of the bay WbS. 3 or 4 leags. At 5 Land bearing No. at 8, the land set at [6?] N16E the Extm. as set at 4 from No to S40W. & the point of the bay S85W, off shore 2 or 3 mile At 10 Came to with the best Bower in 10 faths. & veer’d ½ a Cable, the No point of the bay N16E, the So. point S31W. a Villiage N31W. 2 miles, The Island we pass’d NE ½ E.
We had no sooner got round the point of the Bay than we saw a Villiage, & were h also seen by the Natives, many of whom, we observ’d, were walking over the hills, & carrying burthens with them. It appear’d evident that they dreaded a visit from us, & were h removing their Children & Effects; this great appearance of suspicion & distrust, did not hinder the Captn: from taking this this opportunity, of fine Weather & light winds, (which was a time that little progress could be made) to take a view of the Country, & of its inhabitants; the Capt. landed & perceived that the natives had, to the number of 50 or 60, assembled upon some high ground near their houses, & were well armd with spears, bows & Arrows; they made signs of peace & friendship, but seem’d a verse to our people joining them; however the Captn. proceeded, & the rest of the Gentlemen followed, & likewise the Boats Crew at some distance; when the Captn. came near the Assembly of Natives, they extended a thong, in Order doubtless to keep the strangers

[Page 309]
Monday August 10th. 1778. Continued.
on one side of it; which however the Captn. did not Observe, or did not chuse to take notice of but whent under it & amongst the throng of the Natives, who by degrees perceiving that nothing was intended, threw off in a great measure their fears, took away the thong, & suffer’d our people to mix with them; they never the less kept their Arm’s in readiness, & would on no account sell their Bows, or spears, & at first would not suffer them to be examin’d; they barter’d; with great honesty, their garments, which were jackets, Trowsers, & boots, made of dogs & deer s skins; they also sold some fox & wolves skins; for these they took any thing that was Offerd them, bullets, Buttons, our knives, & Cloaths, indeed none of our officers or men carried any thing for trade; besides the above Articles, were purchas’d exceeding neat carv’d work, made from Sea horses teeth, of birds, seals, &c. & it was observ’d that their spears were very neatly inlaid & ornamented with bone, Copper, & most had Iron points, they had also knives of the shape, & the same kind of blue beads, that we saw at Samganoodha, they also sold their outside garments made of gut, their winter hoods of Deers skin with the trimming of dogs hair, & their gloves made, both of prepared leather, & fur, & like unto ours. also excellent drest white leather not inferior to our ladies gloves; besides this they had well prepared leather of the Sea Horse; a deal of this last was purchas’d by the Captn: for the use of preserving the rigging, In the two hours our boat was on shore, they seem’d to have purchas’d specimens of all their industry, except Arms, the ingenuity which does them great credit; Their dresses were very clean neatly work’d, & exceedingly well adapted for their seasons; These people were h of a Coppery colour, stout, & muscular in their make; they were almost all above the Middle size, & many tall different from the other Indians we had yet seen about america, they not having such high cheek bones large head & small Eyes as are in general found amongst the American Indian

[Page 310]
Monday August 10th. 1778. Continued
about Sandwich Sound. neither had these any ornaments or holes in their under lip or nose, but they had holes in their Ears.
These people were h so satisfied with the behaviour of Captn. Cook, & his attendants, that they entertaind them with a dance, in which there was nothing very singular, & to this dance. two old people kept beating on a skin that was brought tight round a hoop like the top of a drum.
There are two different kind of houses in the Village, one above ground, in which they live during the summer. & their winter habitation is under ground, very much like those at Samgonoodha, only that the Common entrance seem’d to be in at the side; these houses were fill’d with their sledges, traps, & what seem’d to be their winter furniture, their summer houses, were h built up of drift wood & whale bones, made into post’s, that were inclind, & on these, cross post’s with supporters so as to make them have not quite a conic shape, but rather an oval, There were no small skin Canoes seen, but two of the large open skin Boats, & a Model of one was bought which resembled much those at Sandwich Sound, these were coverd with the skins of Whales.
The appearance of this land is very like that which we have just left, there is not the smallest semblance of a shrub; the hills are of a Moderate height, rise very gently, have flat even sides, & extensive valley’s between them. the tops of the hills, & also the sides, are very barren, being little else than stone. but in many places in the Valleys, the green appearance spoke in favour of the soil & near the Village i it was found to very good, & to yield good grass & great plenty of scurvy grass.
We saw another Village at the Bottom of the Bay; which bay extends

[Page 311]
Monday August 10th, 1778 Continued.
from the high rocky bluff point that makes its Northern boundary, WN:W, direction (Variation Alowed) dist 4 or 5 Leags:; except the breaks at the bottom go in some way & carry deep water, this bay can hardly be call’d a safe place for a Ship, being exposed to the East & SE. winds; besides from our shoaling our water rather quick, it is most probable that there is no going much farther down the bay; it would doubtless be of Moment to have a good harbour in these Latitudes, so much nearer to the grand Object of our Voyage, but neither the nature of this coast, nor the one we have left. seems to promise any such thing.

[Page 312]
Weather &c. Obsn: Tuesday August 11th. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & fine Wr:
4 Do, Wr:
8 Mod. breezes & fine Wr.
12 Do, Wr:
[AM]
12 Light breezes & Cloudy.
[Notes in column] PM. soon after the Capt (at ½ past 2) we weigh’d & saild out of the Bay, & afterwards to the NE, at 8. the No point of the bay S37W, 4 leags: & the No Extm. N19W. the high rock N69E, & the 2 Islands extending between N, & N44E dist 3 leags, At 12, the No. extm: of the two Islands NE ½ E, the Noermost Extm: of the land on the west side in sight NNW ½ W 3 leags: this now appears a Moderate sized hill, & we do not see that it is conected with the other land as it ends to the westwd: in low land, & low land seems to run out their? from the Main, it is therefore most probable that a neck of land joins the two. Noon. the high rock S9°E the 2 Islds: S8°:W, & S16°:W. 5 or 6 Leags: the extm: of the land, on the West side mentioned at 12 S53W. & S69°:W. the peak’d hill we Anchord under or the 9th. S43 ½ W. & more land to the NE of y low spit of land which as yet makes the Wt.ern point of the Main bearing S78°: Et.

[Page 313]
Weather &c – Obsn: Wednesday August 12 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & fine Wr:
4 Do, Wr:
12 Do. Wr.
[AM]
4 Mod. breezes & fine Wr.
8 Light breezes & Cloudy
12 Do, Wr.
[Notes in column] PM, we were willing to steer so as to keep sight of the Eastern land on the Eastern Main, which seem’d from the flat point to trend way to the NEbE, but shoaling our Water to 5 faths:, We brought to after standing ½ an hour back again in 6 ½ faths: The peak’d hill bore bore SW ½ E, the Northermost or Eastermost land in sight due East, the two Islands S86°:W, & the extm. of the land on the Western shore the same as set at noon S65W. to S74W. we sent the boats to sound between us & the

[Page 314]
Wednesday August 12th. 1778. Continued.
shore, & they carried 5 faths: & a little less to ½ way between us & the Land, ½ past 9 having a light breeze we weighed, at ½ past 10. it fell calm, & finding we shoald our water, we dropt the Bower, which hardly had been done before a breeze sprung up, & we weighed it again & stood to the WNW. from the shoal water, & in a short time deepned it gradually to 10 faths.
At 4AM the two Islands S ½ W. & SWbS, At noon the peaked hill on the Main S44E, The two Islands S.14E & S8E the So. Extm: which has hitherto been the Noern Extremity of the West shore S30 ½ W. & the No. Extm: which has not been before seen S75W.

[Page 315]
Weather &c. Obsn: Thursday August 13 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & Cloudy Wr:
2 Got Top Gts. yards across.
4 Do, Wr.
7 Tkd. Ship
8 Mod, breezes & hazey
12 Do, Wr. Tack’d Ship.
[AM]
4 Do. Wr:
8 Little wind & fair,
10 Sailmakers repairing the old main sail, people picking Oakum. Calm & fair Wr.
Discovery in Compy:
[Notes in column] At 4 the peaked hill S40E, the Island S7E. 7. or 8. Leags: the So extm: of the West, (the same as at noon) S30W, at 7 as we came near this East main we shoald our water gradually from 27. to 15 fatm. on which we tack’d. – at 8. the peaked hill S34E & the Islands S12W. about 8 Leags. AM at 4, The Islands S4E & the Extm. of the land on the west shore, the So. Extm. being the same as before S19W & S34W, At 8. the Islands S26W. dist 10 leag. Noon the peaked hill S29E, the Extms. of the west shore

[Page 316]
Thursday August 13th. 1778. Continued.
from S27. to S34W. 12 leags: The Net. Extm: of the main being either a part or a continuation of the low land seen at Anchor on the 12PM. S82E. –
Those who are of opinion p that the land to the East of us is the Island of Alatchka, as placed in Matty’s Maps, imagine a the land to the west, to be a part of Asia; again, those who think the East shore to be a continuation of the Main from Cape Newenham, suppose, if there is any such Island as Alatchka, that that to the west must be it; although it agrees in Longitude tolerably well, with Mullers situation of the Eastern Extremity of Asia, as seen by Behring, which conjecture is right yet, we can not determine, but we are in high spirits on seeing the land to the Northwd: of these Extremities, trend away so far, one to the NE & the other to the NW. which bespeak’s an open sea to the Northwd: free of land & we hope of Ice, as we have hitherto seen no signs of any & as the weather is tolerably mild.
The Latde: of the low point which as yet makes the Western Extremity of the land to the Eastwd: is 65°:.,46’No. & Longde: 191°.,48’, & the Latde: & Longde: of what is the East Extremity of the west shore, & which is a moderate high cliff joind as we have great reason to suppose by a low neck to the other land, is in 66°.,5’N. 190°:.20’E these two points bear from one an other dist 12 or 13 Leags: & in the middle of the Channel which these two points makes are the two Islands in Latitude 65°:.50’, to the SE of these about 4 Miles is the high rock.

[Page 317]
Weather &c. Obsn: Friday August 14th 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1-3 Calm & fair,
4 Light Airs
8 Mod. breezes & fair
12 Fresh breezes & Cloudy.
[AM]
4 Squally in 1st. reef. Mizn. T. sail
8 Fresh breezes & Cloudy.
10 Hazey Wr. with squalls & rain
11 Split the Jibb, unbent it & bent an other sing reeft. the T. sails
12 Fresh Gales & hazey.
[Notes in column] At 8PM. the N Extm. of the land to the Eastwd: S70°:E, dist 12 or 13 Leags AM at 10, saw the land bearing from N67 ½ E to N14W. At noon the Extms. of the land in sight from E ½ N. to NE ½ E, 2 Leag. we could see at times, as the fog. would blow away, that the land is low towards the sea side, quite strait, gh & exactly resembling what we last saw of the main land on the 12 at Anchor, & although we have not quite joind that land there seen to this, yet the little space that is left from the similarity of the low land, the direction of the higher hills, & from our Shoaling our water as we stood in to the Eastwd: are proofs sufficient, that it is yet a continued Continent from at least 64 ½ to 67 & ¾ No.

[Page 318]
Weather &c. Obsn: Saturday August 15th. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh gales & thick hazey Wr.
2 Tkd, Ship. double reeft the Topsails
4 Do, Wr. wore Ship
[Notes in column] PM. at 4, when we tack’d. the Extm: of the land from EbS. to NWbN, A round hummock bore NEbE 4 leags: the nearest point 3 leags: No., although the extm. appears low land, yet we can see high dist. land over them, & which also runs on the back. As far as we can see of the low land near the Sea, the Coast forms a bend, in the bight of which we were in at 10AM.
5 Wore Ship
[Notes in column] At 6. the Extm. of the land NbW ½ W. & E ½ S, dist about 5 leags.
8 hazey with rain
12 Squally with rain
[AM]
2 handd: the Mizn. Top sail. Close reeft. the T, sails & handd: the F. Ts.
4 strong gales with hard squalls got down T.Gt. yards, found the Ship leaky, a good deal of water in the spirit room, Empd. baleing it out., At 8. fresh Gales & squally
10 More Moderate
12 Fresh gales & Cloudy, out 3d, reef Main T sail & set y. F.T.Sail Close reeft. Bore away.
[Notes in column] Noon, it would not have been prudent or safe in the very bad weather we have had since last night, to have steerd away more to the Northwd: we judge ourselves to be some distance from the land by our Soundings,

[Page 319]
Weather &c Obsn: Sunday August 16th. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh Gales & squally.
12 Do Wr. hauld the wind,
[AM]
1 Bore away
4 Mod. Gales & thick foggy Wr.
5 hauld the wind. More Mod
6 fired a gun as a signal to the Discovery. w. was Answd:
8 at 7, it cleard away, out reefs
9 bore away. Fresh breezes & hazey.
12 Do. Wr.
[Notes in column] At. Noon we were guided in our proceedings this day by the weather, bearing away, & hauling our wind, as it was more clear or thick, all our sanguine hopes begin to revive & we all ready begin to compute the dist: of our situation from known parts of Baffins Bay.

[Page 320]
Weather &c – Obsn: Monday August 17th. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod, breezes & hazey. got the top Gallant yard up.
12 Fresh breezes & Misty Wr.
[AM]
2 hazey with small rain
4 Cloudy Wr.
8 Fresh breezes & Cloudy
12 Fresh breezes & Cloudy, In 1st. reef Topsails.
[Notes in column] the run of more than 60. Miles this 24 hours to the No, gives us high Spirits, which were a little checque’d on Shoaling our water to 10 fatm: which we knew to be an infallible sign of Approach to the Continent, nevertheless, we had no reason to think its direction would be Unfavourable, but a little before Noon we observ’d an Extraordinary. white appearance in the Sky near the horison to the NW. which seems to extend. to 4 or 5 degrees in Altitude.

[Page 321]
Weather &c- Obsn: Tuesday, August 18th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & hazey.
3 Tkd. Ship, at ½ past Tkd. Ship
4 Do, Wr. Tack’d Ship.
8 Do. Wr. Tack’d Ship.
12 Do. Wr. wore Ship
[AM]
3 Tack’d Ship
4 Fresh breezes & hazey with sleet
6 Showers of snow & Sleet
7 Tack’d Ship
8 Fresh breezes & hazey
12 Fresh breezes & hazey Tkd. Ship
[Notes in column] The appearance observ’d in the forenoon, was soon accounted for. & although we were h very unwilling to listen to the accounts of those who had had experience in these things, yet by 1. we were all satisfied, by seeing a very extensive field of Ice covering the sea from NWbW ½W. to NE. & as far back as the Eye could reach from see at the mast head. At ½ past 2 we tack’d close to the Ice; we observed it to be a good deal broken towards. the edges into small lumps, & doubtless, Ships better prepared than ours, might have forced thr’o a great deal of it, but from appearances at the mast head it became

[Page 322]
Tuesday August 18th. 1778. Continued.
More solid; on these detach’d lumps, were many Sea horses (or Morses). Noon, when we tack’d, we were pretty exactly in the same Latde: as when we tack’d from the first Ice. At ½ past 2 PM. our situation is now only 6 leags: farther to the Eastwd: butt by the bearings of the Ice it is evident that it is in Motion, all the space that we have traversed since yesterday noon being quite fill’d with a firm body. & is inclosing e us fast, what we now are near, is a Compact & solid body, & about 8. or 10 feet high, not estimating its highest parts, as its surface is very uneven, for the whole body seem to be what the Greenlanders call pack’d Ice; we can see from the Mast head a number of small ponds or pools of water; we remark’d yesterday afternoon, that many of the detach’d lumps of Ice, on which were Sea horses, were of a dirty & black Colour; & we Observ’d as far back as we could see, that part of the Ice was also of a dark hue, now this we rather [conceivs?] to be owing to all the Ice in sight having been formaly more broken but now pack’d to gether, for we do not perceive Sea, Horses, in the Ice, but either on pieces or on the Edges of firm Bodies as at present.

[Page 323]
Weather &c Obsn: Wednesday August 19 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & hazey
4 Do Wr. with Sleet
6 Tkd, Ship
8 Fresh breezes with Snow
9 Tkd, Ship at ½ past.
12 Mod. breezes & hazey. with Sleet.
[AM]
4 Mod. & hazey with Snow & Sleet.
8 Tkd. Ship, Mod & hazey. unbent the Mizn: T. sail, & bent the old one.
12 Mod. breezes & Cloudy.
[Notes in column] ½ past 5. saw a low patch of land extending from East to SEbS the nearest point ESE about 3 miles, this was very low land & a sandy beach on which the surf broke & breakers ran from the No. part, At 6 the Discovery being to leeward of us. got into very shoal water, & was Obliged to tack to clear her self, which made us also stand to the No. after her till ½ past 7. when we tack’d & stood to the So.ward, at 8. the Ice extending from NNW. to NEbN. at 12 we found ourselves very comfortable, having got clear of the land & Ice. In the Discovery they considered them selves in iminent danger as the Ice was drifting down fast to the Soward, At noon in the midst of loose Ice.

[Page 324]
Weather &c Obsn: Thursday Augt: 20 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & hazey
2 Tkd Ship
4 Do, Wr.
8 Do Wr. & Showers of Snow
12 Mod. breezes & hazey Wr. sleet at times
[AM]
3 Tkd, Ship
4 Do Wr. with a thick fog at times
8 Mod breezes & foggy.
12 Little wind & thick foggy Wr:
Discovery in Compy
[Notes in column] As we were now drifting amongst lumps of Ice, with prodigious numers of Sea horses upon them; we hoisted out our Boats to kill some of them, this was a divirsion which considering the sameness of our way of life was Eagerly coveted by all. Although the greater part appear’d a sleep & were so, yet on every peice there was always one or two that were awake, & & as we came, near, waked his next neighbour with its tusks, so that although in some of the first attempts we got close upon them before they got into the water, yet our success was not very

[Page 325]
Thursday August 20th, 1778. Continued,
great, for those behind, in their haste to get into the water, shoved in these on the Edges which we had kill’d with the Balls, but which had no effect, without they went thr’o the head of The Animal, they in the water put on the appearance of making us repent our game by following the boat. & as we receded their boldness always increas’d, & their numbers, their noise, & their motions full of anger & rage might have alarm’d us, had we not heard, & soon proved, that this was all bravado, for on stopping, firinge a little powder, or making the point of pushing them with staffs they kept their distance.
They are also remark’d as being the most affectionate parents, which we had instances enough to corroborate, & which made this a cruel sport & spoilt the satisfaction we should otherwise have had; on one piece of Ice we had kill’d a young one & its mother would not leave it, but tryed to take it under her fore fins, & had dragged it a little way where our men had got upon the Ice, & fired at her, this made the poor Animal retire a little way, but the strong call of nature made her return, & she stood at Bay, & defended herself most gallantly, till with repeated Balls & the strokes of hatchets she was killed; We brought on board 9 Sea horses, I observed many small pebbles upon the Ice & in opening the stomachs of these Animals, the same kind were found, In general they had very little in them, & that little was grass & gravel.
At ½ past 2 the Discovery saw the land from NE to SE, they judged themselves 4 or 5 miles from it.

[Page 326]
Weather &c Obsn: Friday August 21: 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light winds & hazey.
4 Do, Wr:
6 Light Airs & thick foggy Wr.
8 Do, Wr.
12 Hauld our wind to the Southwd:
[AM]
1 Mod. breezes & foggy shortn’d sail,
4 Do. Wr:
8 Do. Wr.
12 Light breezes & fine Wr:
[Notes in column] Saw Ice, the So:ermost part bearing W ½ S., Large flocks of Birds flying to the Southwd: heard, Sea horses to the No. of us pass’d some pieces of drift Ice.
Many sea horses about, pass’d large pieces of Ice. –
At ½ past 10 the fogg clear’d away, & we saw land, from ENE ½ E. to SEbE ½ E. made sail, At noon the Extm: of the land S ½ W. to NEbE ½ E nearest part 7 leags. off. At Noon the direction of this land is by Compass NNE, it is very like that to the So,ward, that is low towards the Sea, & a strait gh shore hilly on the back, & free from Snow,

[Page 327]
Weather &c Obsn; Saturday August 22d. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light Airs & fine Wr:
4 Do. Wr: taken a back
6 Unbent the Courses & bent the Best suit, hoisted the small Cutter out & sent her to try the current, At 8. Do. Wr
10 taken aback,
12 Light Airs & fair
[AM]
2 Calm & fair.
4 Light Airs & fair Wr:
6 Light Airs & thick hazey Wr:
8 Do. Wr: with small rain,
12 Mod. breezes & hazey Wr:
[Notes in column] The Extms: of the land from EbN to S ½ W. off shore 6 or 7. leags:
The Extm: of the land in sight from NEbE to S ¾ W. off shore about 6 leags, the boat came on board found a small drain from the NNE.
The Extm: of the land in sight from S10W. to N73E off shore 8. or 9 Leagues.

[Page 328]
Weather &c Obsn: Sunday August 23d. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & thick foggy Wr:
4 Do, Wr:
8 Light Airs & foggy.
10 Calm & foggy.
12 Do. Wr:
[AM]
1 Light breezes & foggy, heard a noise like surf, Which we supposed to be the Ice, wore Ship & stood off pass some drift Ice. Do. Wr.
12 Light breezes & thick foggy Wr.

[Page 329]
Weather &c Obsn: Monday August 24th. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes, & hazey with rain,
4 Mod. breezes & thick hazey Wr.
8 Fresh breezes & thick hazey Wr: In 1st reef Top sails,
12 Do, Wr:
[AM]
2 Showers of Snow
4 Fresh breezes & Cloudy,
8 Do. Wr.
10 Hazey Wr. Clean’d between decks at 12. fresh breezes & Cloudy.
12 put the S. Compy. to full allowce: of all kind of Provisions, but. bread,

[Page 330]
Weather &c Obsn: Tuesday August 25, 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & Cloudy.
4 Mod, breezes & Cloudy.
6 Squally with showers of Snow
8 Do, & hazey.
10 Snow.
12 Mod. & Cloudy.
[AM]
2 Snow,
3 Tack’d Ship,
4 Mod. breezes & Cloudy.
5 Saw the appearance of land to the SE. Tkd: Ship & stood Towards it, at ½ past 5. it proved to be a fog. bank at 6, Tkd: Ship,. at 8. fresh breezes & Cloudy.
11 Sleet & Small rain
12 Fresh breezes with sleet at times
Discovery in Compy:

[Page 331]
Weather &c Obsn: Wednesday August 26 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & hazey Wr.
2 handd: Mizn. Top sail,
4 Fresh gales & hazey.
6 pass’d some drift wood,
8 Do Wr. wore Ship.
10 Close reeft the Mizn: T. sail & set it
12 Mod. gales & hazey.
[AM]
4 Fresh breezes & hazey Wr:
6 Out 2d: reef Mizn; T. sail, several land birds flying about Ship
8 Mod. breezes & Cloudy, out all reefs
12 Mod. & Cloudy.
[Notes in column] Saw the Ice from the Mast head extending from NbE. to WNW ½ W.
the Ice extending from NbW. to NEbN. dist. from it 4 or 5 miles

[Page 332]
Weather &c Obsn: Thursday August 27. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & Cloudy.
3 pass’d. a great Quantity of drift Ice. Do, Wr:
6 the wind coming round to the SE. hauld off. from the Ice, being ½ a mile dist.
9 at 8 Light Breezes & hazey.
10 Mod. breezes & Cloudy. In 1st. reef of the Top sails,
12 Fresh breezes & Cloudy.
[AM]
4 Do. Wr. Tack’d Ship
8 Fresh breezes & hazey.
10 Punish’d Jno: Boyd with 6 Lashes for neglect of duty, & Mathew daley with 12. lashes for theft. Mod. breezes & fair.
[Note in column] The Ice from NNE to S ½ W. dist 2 or 3 Miles

[Page 333]
Weather &c – Obsn: Friday August 28. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & hazey Wr:
4 Do, Wr:
6 Light breezes & thick hazey Wr: with rain. Tack’d Ship.
8 hoisted out the Boats & sent them to kill some Sea horses,
12 Thick foggy Wr. Tack’d Ship,
[AM]
3/4 Calm. Light Airs & thick hazey Wr.
5 Tack’d Ship,
8 thick hazey Wr.
10/11 Calm.
12 Little wind & foggy Wr:
[Notes in column] At 8. PM. the boat return’d, we had an instance how carefull one ought to be in dispatching boats amongsts loose Ice. in these Climates, where fogs come very suddenly; the boats had lost sight of the Ships & the fog was so thick & the drift Ice was altering its situation so fast, that they were at a loss which way to pull, some advising an exact contrary course to what was followed.
The Captn: inform’d the Ships company that he should leave the Ice as fast as he could, & that

[Page 334]
Friday August 28th. 1778, Continued.
the next year should come up amongst it again, he advised oeconomy in all articles, as the only method to enable us to perform Effectually. the service we are sent upon, Those who have been amongst Ice, in the dread of being inclosed in it, & in so late a season can be the best judge of the general joy that this news gave.

[Page 335]
Weather &c – Obsn: Saturday August 29 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & thick foggy Wr.
4 Do, Wr.
5 Made Sail Do Wr.
6 Tkd.
8 Fresh gales & hazey. got down top Gtt. Yards, & double reeft the T. sails
[AM]
2 Calm with a head sea.
3 Mod. & hazey, with showers of rain & sleet. Many Sea horses about the Ship, out 2 reefs of T sails & got the main T. Gt. Yard across
10 Fresh breezes & dark gloomy Wr.
11 thick fog’s & showrs: punnish’d Richd. Lee wh. 12 lashes for drunkeness. Do. Wr.
Discovery in Compy:
[Notes in column] Extms: of the Ice from No. 10 SSW
Tack’d to clear the Ice, the East point bearing SbW, 1 Mile & stretching a great way to the SW. on every part were h a number of Sea horses, - by our Attention to killing these Sea horses, we are now nearer being enclosed with Ice, than we had yet been, & the pieces are very large
At 8. fresh gales & hazey. the Discovery being near the Ice made the signal to tack, wore Ship, Ice bearing NW,
At 2 Calm with a head sea at 3 many Sea horses about the Ship, Ice extending N to WbS, At 10, saw the land bearing SSW ½ W. to SW.

[Page 336]
Saturday August 29th. 1778. Continued,
The high lump which makes the No. Extm: of the land from S55E. 5 miles to N85W 3 leags. the nearest part SbW. dist 2 miles.
This farthest Extremity of the Coast of Asia which we saw at 8, the most distinctly projected out a little & was high & broken, some of us supposed it might be an Island, be that as it may, we place it in Latde. 68°.55’ No. & Longde: [indecipherable]
The similarity of appearance of this land of Asia to that opposite to it in America, is very strikeing; the same shoaleness of water on approaching it, the same low land towards the Sea, & strait gh shores, & the high hills on the back, only that here there is a ridge of Mountains beyond these hills which have a good deal of snow upon them; the nature of the soil as far as we may judge from sight seems nearly the same.; there is not a bush to be seen, on the sides of the smaller hills: towards the top we remark’d it to be very barren & little else than heaps of black stones, the lower parts had a brownish hue, & sometimes a bare red soil could be seen., in the low grounds the productions of the soil was of a greener colour, but on the whole the Appearances were not very inviting e; from the Mast heads, we could see an extensive piece of water just behind the flat sandy sea coast, & it continued parrelel to it.

[Page 337]
Weather &c - -
Obsn: August. 30th, 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & hazey wh Snow
2 Tack’d Ship
4 thick foggy Wr.
6 Tack"d
8 thick hazey Wr. with snow
10 hauld. the Courses up & brought to with Main T sail to the Mast
[AM]
1/2 bore away & made sail
4 fresh breezes & hazey..
5 out 1st. reef of the M.T. sail
8 Do, Wr. with very thick snow
11 the Wr: a little Clearer.
12 thick hazey Wr.
[Notes in column] at 5 PM. the extm: of the land SE & WSW.
AM at 10. saw the land bearing SSW.
Noon. the Extm: of the land W ½ & ESE the nearest part SbE. 3 or 4 Miles, we tack’d within a mile & ahalf of a point round which we thought was an opening into a pond on the back of the beach, & we conjecture that [the?] piece of water observ’d yesterday is a part of this formg a lake., & emptying it self into the sea; the snow has entirely altered the face of things, & made all the land of one colour, we are very glad that our backs are turn’d upon this forerunner of a Miserable cold season.

[Page 338]
Weather &c – Obsn: Monday August 31st, 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & hazey Wr.
2 out 1st. reef of the Top sails
4 Do. Wr.
6 Cloudy.
8 Do, Wr:
11 hauld the wind " & stood off
[AM]
3 bore away,
4 Mod. & Cloudy.
6 bore away many sea horses about the Ship
8 Mod, & hazey with Snow & Sleet
12 Mod & Cloudy.
Discovery in Co.
[Notes in column] at 8. PM, the extremity of land WbS ½ S. to SSE ½ E, the nearest point S.bW. 2 Leag.
At 8AM, The Eastermost land we set, is an Island & bears S25E, the west Extremity of the Main SWbS, the nearest part SWbS. 3 or 4 leags:
Noon the Body of the Island which is high & Cliffy S7W. the west Extremity of the [Terain?] SSW ½ W 6 leags: the main land is higher than what we pass’d yesterday, & not so even & flat an appearance, but more diversified with hills & valley’s in many parts near the shore it is free from snow, the Island has no snow on it.

[Page 339]
Weather &c – Obsn: Tuesday. Septy: 1st: 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod breezes & Cloudy
4 Hazey Wr.
8 In 1st. reef of the Top sails
10 Tack’d Ship,
12 Squally with hail & sleet,
[AM]
2 Tack’d Ship,
4 Fresh breezes
7 Showers of snow, large flocks of Birds flying past
9 hazey Wr.
12 Mod. & Cloudy.
[Notes in column] ½ past 5 saw more land bearing S77E on which we hauld off the land & [pept?] on a wind, at 8, the Eastermost land making a point EbS ½ S 6, leags: & the Island N79W. 6 or 7. leags: the coast between the land in the parellel of the Island, the Et. extremity makes in a bend.
At 10. not being able to weather the East extremity Tack’d, at ½ pass’d 1. Tack’d the Island bearing NW. at 4 the Island N87W. the East Extm the same as at 8. S69.E At ½ past 8 saw a head land or projecting Cape which bore EbN., At Noon. the East land or Cape N87 ½ E a small low Island near the main S9E about 5 mile dist the Wt.most land in sight SWbW. the land that we are now running past, is of a [Mod?] height free from snow near the Sea [indecipherable] high Mountains which are coverd with snow rise s on the back.

[Page 340]
Weather &c Obsn: Wednesday Sept. 2d. 1778
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & Cloudy.
4 Do. Wr:
8 Do. Wr.
12 Do. Wr.
[AM]
2 Bore away
4 Fresh breezes with Sh.owrs: of Snow
8 Hazey & thick Misty Wr.
10 Cleand between Decks
12 Mod. & hazey with Showrs: of Snow
Discovery in Compy:
[Notes in column] PM. at 6. The Cape S74E. & the low Island S44W. the nearest part SEbS. 2 or 3 leags. at ½ past 6, a dist: head land opend with the Cape at S64Et. At 8. the Cape S54E. the East Extm. or head land S61E, & the west SWbW ½ W.,
AM at 2 the Cape SWbS ½ S. 3 or 4 leags: & the head land SbE ½ E, At 6, distt: land which appears a detach’d Bluff. SE ¾ E. the Eastermost connected land SE. The Cape W ½ S. & the head land SWbS. Noon. the point set as the Eastermost Extm: of the connected land. at 6, S43E, to the NW of which the land is broken & forms bays, the detach’d land at 6, which we now perceive to be joind to the

[Page 341]
Wednesday Septr: 2d. 1778 Continued
Main by low land S59E, the Cape No80 ½ W. dist. 2 or 3 Leagues.
Today we may be said to have certified many of our doubts; for the remarkable Bluff head, which is now our East. Extremity. is no other then. what we were off. on the 11. of August; It is therefore the Eastern Extremity of Asia, as far as is known for any certainty.

[Page 342]
Weather &c. Obsn: Sept. 3d. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & fine Wr.
4 Do. Wr.
8 Do Wr
12 Do Wr.
[AM]
4 Fresh breezes & fair Wr:
8 Do, Wr.
12 Light breezes & fair Wr:
Discovery in Compy.
[Notes in column] At 3. saw more land. bearing S72E.
At 4. the NW. land in sight N82W. the Bluff head S59E, the nearest land SWbS. 7. Miles, At 8 the Bluff, S19W. The East. point S73E, there are 2 or 3 rocks near the Shore S63E, At 8. the East land in a line with the Bluff, the Bluff, head S80W. off shore 3 or 4 Miles, At 10, standing round the Eastermost part of this land, or what we call East Cape, at 12. the Extms: of the land in sight from WbS. to NW ½ W. off shore 4 Miles. At 2. AM we could now see the low neck that joins the high bluff land (which forms the East Cape) to the main which we could not entirely join

[Page 343]
Thursday Septr: 3d: 1778. Continued.
on the 11th, when we were last here, this low neck bends & makes the same form’d bay on the North side of it as it does on this South side
At 8. the No. point of the road S64W. 4 or 5 miles, & the East Cape N11E, at 10. sailing by the road & in sight of the Village Captn. Cook visited.
At noon the No. point of the road N11E, the South point S64W. 2 leagues an inlet in the Bottom of the road N56W. the Soermost land insight SSW.
the Coast takes round the So, point of the road, a very westerly direction & runs as far back as the Eye can reach forming bays &c. –
In August 10th. the N point of the road would be placed in long by Time keepers 109°. 20’E when as It now gives the longitude of that point 109°,50’E It has therefore in 24 days gained half a degree, a greater error by far than it has ever hither to had; the knowledge of this its error will enable us to make allowances, & to be accurate in the comparative situations of the ship amongst the Ice; but as yet we cannot tell how much the longitudes by Time keeper differ from the truth, as we have had only one days Lunar observation (on the 17 Aug. which gave less than time keeper by 20’) since the numbers taken to the Northwd of Cape newenham from July 17 to 20th & which gave more by 16’ than T.K.
The long by dead reckoning in this time has erred five degrees, which is too great an Error to be atributed to any other cause than to that of a currant setting to the westwd.

[Page 344]
Weather &c – Obsn: Friday Seprtr.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & fair Wr.
4 Do Wr.
7 Mod & hazey.
11 Shortend Sail
12 Do, Wr, hauld the wind
[AM]
2 Bore away.
4 Fresh breezes & Cloudy.
8 Do. Wr. Soundd: no Ground at 25 fat.
12 Mod & fair.
[Notes in column] Sent the small Cutter to try the Current or tide, found a small drain from the NE. the East cape N13E. the No point of the road N10E, the So. point N40W. 5 or 6 Miles, & the Soermost land insight South 22W. At 8. PM. the No pt. of the road N9E the So. point N17.W. 3 or 4 leags: & the Soermost land in sight SbW ½ W. to the West is a very deep Inlet extending deeper than we can see to the So.ward of that the Coast also forms a bay, but we can trace the land surrounding it; all this

[Page 345]
Friday September 4th 1778. Continued.
broken land is very barren & rather high, rising e abruptly in most places from the sea. At 4 AM. the No. point of the road No.. the So point NbW ¾ W. 5 or 6 leag. & the So.ermost land insight SbW. At 8. The No. point of the road N5E the So point N7W. the Soermost land in sight S4W. the So. Extm: is rather a low point, but to the No, are broken cliffs & deep bays, A small Island near the Shore S27W. on this point we saw some stages for drying fish, at 11, we shoald our water to 11 faths. & afterwards to 7 fatm. hauld off & deepend gradually, At Noon the No land in sight N40W. the So. part as set at 8. S21W. dist 6 leags; the Island seen at 10, S64W. 2 or 3 leags: low land off the So. extm: seen from the mast head SbW. The land where the stages are on the No. extm: projects considerably out, for to the South of it, as well as to the North, the Sea runs into the west, & makes deep bays; particularly to the South which we are now abreast of, only from our shoaling our water so quick in approaching the Shore, it would seem that these bays, may not have sufficient water to make them good shelterd places.

[Page 346]
Weather &c Obsn: Saturday Septr: 5th. 1778.
[Meteorological Observations not recorded]
[PM]
1 Light breezes & fair shoald the Water hauld more off
3 Bore away.
4 Do, Wr.
8 Do Wr.
9 hauld our wind
12 Do, & hazey.
[AM]
4 Mod. breezes & Cloudy.
8 Do, & hazey
9 Misty Wr.
12 Fresh breezes & hazey.
[Notes in column] high land opening with the So extm: set at noon S36W. the Soermost land in sight S46W. the So. extm, as set at noon. S56W. dist from the low land that lies off it 6 miles, at 6, the Soermost land S51W. the Noermost N44W. 2 or 3 leags: saw a small Island bearing SEbS. This Island is what Behring has call’d St. Laurence At 8. the Extms. of the land in sight from N54W to S57W. & the Island St. Laurence SE ½ E, off shore 4 or 5 leags we now haul’d our wind fully convinced, (from the westerly direction this land takes & from the above Island, as also from the general outlines of this Coast, & its situation agreeing tolerably well with

[Page 347]
Saturday Septr: 5th 1778. Continued
that of Behrings in Harris Collection of Voyages), of this land being really the Etern extremity of Asia, & the same as that Navigator as far as 67°, coasted; it remaind therefore only to know whether the opposite coast was America, or the Island call’d Alatchka in Matty’s Map, & as there is a large space between 60. & 64 ½ , yet unexplored; it will till something more is done there abouts, be always made a point of dispute, whether or no we have traced the Continent to above 70°, & it becomes the more necessary to examine that part, in order to form the best plan for our proceedings the next year. we are, I believe, going to clear up these doubts, & before we take our leave of Asia, I shall just give the direction of its coast’s; as far as we have gone, & its appearance & figure.
From the No,ermost part we saw, in 68°.55’. Latde; & 181° Longde: the direction to what we have simply call’d a Cape, Septr. 1st & 2d, in Latde: 67°, 4’ Longde: 188°. 12’, is S55E, & N55W. In all this track with very little deviation it is a strait gh Course, the only break of consequence is 6 or 7 leags: to the WbN. of the Cape, off which lies a small low Island, another larger Island lies of this coast in 67°. 45’, & to the SW. of it the coast makes also a bend.
This Cape was the end of Behrings Navigation, he seeing the Coast take this direction judged most wisely that it would continue so to do. till it joined the known parts about the river Kolyma. I may at another time from Mullers own account, & what we have observed, try to prove that this Cape (or this East Cape) is the very [Ilutskoi Noss?] he labours to prove to be so much farther North, The trending of the land between the Cape in 67°, 5’ & East Cape is S42E, & N42W. true, tis also a strait gh shore or nearly so. This East Cape most remarkable for being; I believe, the Eastern promontorey of all Asia is in Latd: 66.5. Long. 190°. 18’.E. it is a high bluff peice of land joind by a narrow low neck to the main, & off its NE point are 3 rocks, from this East Cape to the No. head of the road we anchord in, the course is S45W. & N45E, true. the head is in Latitude 65°,40’, Long. 189°, 10’ Et this is also a strait gh shore, not regarding the bend the low neck makes; from this head to the projecting point

[Page 348]
September 5th. 1778. Continued.
of low land in Latde. 64°. 45’. Long. 187°. 50’, where we saw the fish stages, & off which we were at 10 AM., the course is S35W. & N35E, true, The intermediate space is full of breaks, the 1st. is the road we anchord in, & we observed at the Bottom of that road was a break that seemd to run to the NE; if there is water sufficient that place would doubtless be well sheltred; round the So point of this road r a very deep & broad inlet ran in West; the same remarks may be made in regard to this as on the break on the road, about the projecting low point the land was broken, but we had reason to suppose, that if there are sheltred bays, or coves, there is no approaching them from the Shoalness of the water, From this projecting point to a very low spit that seem’d to extend a good way off, the course is SSW. & beyond this it turns sharp round to the WSW. where we lost it, this last mentioned spit of low land is in Latde. 64°. 18’ N. & Longde: 187°. 15’. Et. all this part of Asia, has not a tree or shrub. on it that we saw to the No.ward of East Cape it is generally low towards the sea side, after which it rises into hills & Valleys, & beyond these are high Mountains seemingly: covered with snow in all seasons; to the So.ward of East Cape, as far as the projecting point, the land rises into Cliffs & Bluff. heads directly from the sea. from this point as far as we saw [sea?] it becomes low, & like the land to the North. The season of the year might be expected to make every thing have a brown hue, But I believe at any time the greater part is not blest with a rich soil & produce.

James. King.

[Transcriber's list of abbreviations:

Do. Wr. - Ditto Weather
&c. - et cetera
Compy - Company
Emp’d - employed
Caulkg - Caulking
Carprs/Carptrs - Carpenters
Beag - bearing
Tkd - Tacked
Extrs/Extms - Extremes
Repg/repaig - repairing
Noermost/Soermost - Northernmost/Southernmost
No.ward/So.ward - Northward/Southward
2d. - Second
Sailms - Sailmakers
Discy/Discoy - Discovery
Soundd - Sounded
Puttg - putting
Answd - answered
Wh - with
Fatms - fathoms
Reeft - reefed
Latde/Longde - Latitude/Longitude
Extm - Extreme
Bt. - Best
Gt. - Gallant]

[Transcribed by Gary Cook for the State Library of New South Wales]