Report of the Expedition of L. Leichhardt Esq. from Moreton Bay to Port Essington, 1844-1845

Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales

Report of the Expedition of L. Leichhardt Esq. from Moreton Bay to Port Essington, 1844-1845
C 157, filed at Safe 1/294

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This is the original mss from which a small pamphlet a "resume of the Expedition" was printed - see the names of the compositions GK [Georgina King?]

Report of the Expedition of L. Leichhardt Esq. From Moreton Bay to Port Essington.

I left Sydney the 13th of August 1844 on the Shamrock, Captain Cape, the Steam Navigation Company having given to me and to my party a free passage to Moreton Bay. After recruiting my horses at Moreton Bay I went up to Darling Downs and stayed for a month at Mr Campbells Station, waiting for my provisions, which the Kind people of Moreton bay had volunteered to send up to the Downs with drays. Finding that my horses were not sufficient to move all the provisions and considering, that bullocks would form give at the same time means to move our provisions and form a good stock of provisions themselves, I bought 3 bullocks from Major North at Laidley plains, and 5 from Mr Hughs at Darling downs. My party consisted originally of 6 persons, Mr Roper, Mr James Calvert, John Murphy, Phillipps and the blackfellow Harry Brown of Newcastle. In Moreton bay a Negro Caleb and a blackfellow of Bathurst Charley joined me. At the Downs Mr Hodgson and Mr Gilbert increased the number of my party to ten persons. The two latter added 2 bullocks to those I had, and Mr Stephens and Campbell made us a present of 4 young steers and a bullock. Mr Isaacks gave a fat bullock. I started therefor from Fimba, the farthest station of Darling Downs to the Westward at the 1st Octobr 1844 with 16 head of cattle 17 horses and 4 Kangooroo dogs - Mr Hodgson and Caleb returned with 2 horses from KentsLagoon, about 70 miles from Fimba. We travelled at first through the system of water of the Condamine, which goes much farther to the Northward, than is laid down on the map, as I left it about the 26°44' of latitude. I past several creeks which evidently joined the Condamine

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in latitude 26°26', and 26°16' and 26°10' in a course NW from Fimba; and I have soon to mention that I came on westerly waters again in lat. 25°19' and 25°13', which to all probability go to the westward and Southward to join the Condamine or belong at least to the great basin of the Darling.
After having past the great plains of the Condamine, between Coxcens[uncertain?] Stations, Fimba and Rupells station we entered into a country, which was alternately covered with fine open forestland, well grassed and fit for cattle and horses breeding - and with long stretches of almost impassable Bricklow scrub, so called from the Bricklow (a species of acacia) being one of the principal components. Open Myalscrub was frequent, particularly along the Condamine. Though the Bricklow scrubs were frequently of great length and breadth, I do not think that they ever form uninterrupted lines of more than 20-30 miles so that they allways allow to be skirted. The frequency of these scrubs however would render the establishment of stations unadviseable, as they not only allow a secure retreat to hostile blackfellows, but to wild cattle. -

Following a narrow passage through a very extensive bricklow scrub, over a flat country, I entered into a new system of waters, which at first turnt to the WNW and NW, but about 70 miles lower down on lat. 25°36' turnt to the NEast. - I came on it in lat. 26°4'. I called the principal river "the Dawson". Fine flats extend along its banks and open ridges with sound ground are some miles off the River. Lower down however, ranges appear, covered with scrub and I suppose that the River where it turns to the NEast enters into a rather mountaineous country, to work its way into the flats of the East coast. A large creek joins it in lat. 25°34', which comes from the NW. and I called it Palmtree creek, as fine Corypha[?] Palms grew along its banks. - It is accompanied by rich flats and fine ridges and has a plentiful supply of water in the lached[uncertain?] holes, as the upper Dawson had. But these rich flats, which would delight the eye of the cattlebreeder, are limited towards the Ranges by thick

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Bricklow scrub. This scrub covers the hills to the southward between the creek and a long Range and is interrupted by plains, almost entirely grown over with Verrain, which made me call them "Verrain plains" whenever I met with them, even should this plant be less abundant.
In following up the Creek, I came again on a flat tableland and on waters which turnt to the SWest. Should the creek, I met in lat. 25°29' and which I called "Robinsons creek" belong to the Condamine, the watershed would be one of the most curious, which ever have been observed.- The shallow channels which form the heads of Palmtree creek (an easterly water) are scarcely 1/4 of a mile distant from the broad deep sandy bed of Robinsons creek, the latter turning to the SWest, the former collecting towards the East. Several sedgy swamps and lagoons covered with waterfowl are found at the left bank of Robinsons creek.
This Creek comes from a hilly country, which ~~high~~ more to the NW rises into Ranges of considerable elevation, giving rise to a great number of watercourses, creeks and gullies, all collecting into Robinsons creek. The whole country is openly timbered, the ridges at the upper part of it in part covered with silverleaved Ironbark, well adapted for sheep. Fine flats extend along its banks, where I first met it in lat. 25°19' and came again to Waters which turnt to the West and SWest - In pursuing a NW course I entered into a ~~mountai~~ knot of mountains, from which the waters flowed in almost every direction: to the East, NEast, North , West to SWest. Only long and tedious reconnoitres enabled me to find a passage through this intricate country, And even these would have been perhaps unsuccessful, if Providence had not thrown by an accident some light on our dark and difficult path. - In following a NEasterly creek to its head.

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I found an easy mountain pass and came on the heads of a creek going to the Northward. I foll These are in lat. 25°5'. In latit. 24°54' this creek, which I called "Zamia Creek" from fine arborescent zamias (or lgias [uncertain]) growing on its flats, turns to the NEast. Its deep channel gets very shallow as it enters a flat country of very great extend, almost unbounded by any rise towards the NEast. The creek is accompanied by small flats and thick scrub. But the flats extend more and more and this scrub receedes, as it approaches the large flat country, which appears openly timbered, and well grassed in the proper season. When we went along it, the 4-8th Decbr. 44. the grass was all burnt and the country looked black, with some few exceptions of old burnings, which was covered with luxuriant grass. The creek has very little water. ~~I burnt~~
I turnt round a Range at the left of Zamia creek, its 2 most conspicuous mountains we had seen long time ago, the one, a sharp peak covered with scrub I called "Aldis's Peak" The other Domeshaped I called Mount Nicholson. They are excellent landmarks and must be seen for a great distance from the NEast. This latitude is about 24°52'30". The Range to which they belong I called "Expedition Range". Travelling along its Eastside ~~past~~ I crossed several creeks. The largest of which I called Expedition creek. Palmtrees were again frequent. Another creek, which from the abundance of Erythrina trees, I called Erythrina creek was amply supplied with fine reedy waterholes. - The country is openly timbered and well grassed: but I fear that all these creeks get very dry, as they leave the mountains.
I crossed the Range, The passage is very difficult. The stock of the Range is basaltic, the spurs and subordinate Ranges are sandstone. The Basaltic part is openly timbered, arborescent Zamias very frequent: the sandstone spurs are covered with scrub and underwood, peculiar to this ~~rocky~~

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description of country. - From the NWest side of this Range our view opens over a large valley bounded to the West and NW by distance Ranges, which I called the Christmas ranges. It is almost entirely filled with scrub, the extend of which was well calculated to try a man's courage. Some few plains were visible and isolated hills rose in different directions out of this sea of scrub.- Lat. 24°45' Lat. 24°26'[in margin] The watercourses very different from those of the other side of the Range, were dry near the Range but contained fine waterholes within the scrub.- I followed a watercourse through the scrub in a NNE direction and came to open Boxflats and openly timbered basaltic ridges which however soon changed again with scrub. - The creek led me to a small river lined with fine casuarinas and flooded gum. I called it "Comet River" as I saw the fine Comet (of the 29th Decbr 44) in travelling along its banks. It comes from Downs and Plains to the westward and is accompanied by a narrow strip of open forest land, hemmed in by scrub, which lower down takes entire possession of its banks, until it joins a fine River (the Mackenzie) well supplied with water, its waterholes forming broad stretches of 2-3-10 miles full of excellent and various fishes and of fresh water muscles which appear to form the principal food of the natives - The Comet River with is badly supplied with waters. From lat 24°25' to almost 23°41' its bed was entirely dry, small waterholes supplied by late thunderstorms assisting us to pass over this thirsty country. As it approaches the Mackenzie the supply of water increases and from lat. 23°41' - 23°34' fine numerous waterholes are found in the bed of the creek. The valley of the scrubs between Expedition and Christmas Ranges over the Comet River are not available for any pastural purpose. - The sports man alone would be remunerated by rich sport in the detached patches of scrub surrounded and by a [Verrain?] and low thistle plains, which teem

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with Kangooroos.
The Mackenzie comes from the westward. I should have followed it up to its head of the scrub which lined its banks had not made it adviseable to follow it down in order to come to a more open country.- The heads of the Mackenzie are however a very interesting point, as they will lead to a watershed between eastern and western water. It is the only easterly water I past with the exception of Comet river, the heads of which remained unknown.
The Mackenzie winds through a peculiar country. The valley is deep and narrow: on its left side a high level country extends, near the river with belts of scrub, farther off with plains and open forest generally Boxforest, but these plains and open forests are again lined by scrub.- From time to time sandstone crops out in the deep cut creeks, which join the river, or in the banks of the River itself. In one of these sections several layers of fine coal were found, identick with the formation of the Newcastle coal. Rounded pieces of coal had been found in the bed of the River, where we first come to it, evidently showing that the coal formation extends higher up the River. The windings of the Mackenzie are numerous and large: it was difficult to make out its general course: lower down however it becomes more regular: it seems to enter the flats of the East, similar to those I mentioned at Zamia Creek: its course is NEast according to the blackfellows who are very numerous but behaved very friendly to us.
I do not think that that part of the Mackenzie, we past, is well adapted for the establishment of cattle or sheep stations. The scrub is too frequent and too thick, but the water, the variety and richness of the grasses, the fine plains and open Boxforest are very inviting. I have reason to believe that the scrub is less frequent lower down the River.

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At lat 23°21'30" I left the Mackenzie and travelled again in a NW direction. In an extend of 25 miles we past long stretches of thick scrub, of fine open narrowleaved Ironbark forest of Box flats and of plains; the latter of a rich blacksoil strewed over with pieces of fossil wood changed into Ironstone and Silex. Some of the finest country with rich grass and herbs, plenty of water, open forest and plain, with honey sweet like that of Flymettus[?], with plenty of game, the air fragrant with wild thyme and Majoram - lined with dense Bricklowscrub extending for more than 25 miles, interrupted only by creeks which appear all to belong to the system of the Mackenzie. A fine Range of Peaks was seen from almost the only hill of this country in a NW direction. As I approached it, other lower Ranges appeared and 2 fine creeks, lined with Casuarina with ready waterholes, running to the SWest lay in our course. These creeks are accompanied by fine open Box and narrowleaved Ironbark flats the latter however generally with rotten ground. I followed one of the creeks up to its head and going up a Sandstone spur I came on a fine tableland, where plains with rich black soil covered with luxuriant grass and herbs were separated by narrow strips of sandy Ironbark forest. The plains enlarged as I advanced and a series of magnificent cones and ranges rose from their level. I called this range "Peak Range" and gave to the most prominent Peaks separate names. They are composed of Domite[?], whilst the ridges to the east and SEast were of Sandstone and the ridges, varying the plains to the westward of Basalt ic. - The latit. of Peak Range is 22°56'54" its longitude about 148°19'. The plains and Downs extend far to the westward, where another Range of Peaks was observed. There was good water in a sandstone creek with rocky waterholes running to the SWest, but the plains were badly watered. The young grass, late burnings and smoke

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rising to the eastward of the Range showed evidently that this fine country was well inhabited. Blackfellows were even seen by some of the party. At nearer closer examination would detect more water, and this procured no country would better adapted for pastural purposes than the plains and Downs of peak Range and the whole country to the East which I have seen.-
Numerous creeks go down to the Eastward, either coming from basaltic ridges and winding through small plains of a blacksoil, or from sandstone ridges passing along between them, until they enter the flat country to the East and NEast, which I had twice occasion to mention. Many of these creeks are well provided with waterholes though not near the Range, but farther down The waterholes are generally rocky basins.
I travelled through the country during January and february 1845 - there was no continuous rain, but only occasional thundershowers which frequently filled the empty waterholes to give us a stepping stone over a dry [word deleted] country.
I travelled from lat. 22°43' to lat 22°23' in a Northerly course over Sandstone Ranges, (spurs of the tableland) between which creeks come down frequently accompanied by grassy plains or wellgrassed open forest. The Ranges were so rocky and their slopes so steep that I determined to follow one of the easterly creeks down.- I called this creek Hughs's creek. Between the ranges it was well provided with fine waterholes, in the flat country which it entered after leaving the sandstone ranges, it was almost entirely waterless. At the upper part of this creek the drooping teatree was first observed. We found it afterwards at every creek and every river; it was generally the companion of water and its ~~dottre~~ drooping foliage gave a rich shade.

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The flat country which we had entered, was covered with narrow leaved Ironbark, with Box and a new species of gum which we called Poplargum as its leaf and its foliage resembles very much in form and verdure the trembling poplar of Europe. The ground of the Ironbark forest is generally rotten, that of the Box is sound, as the box grows on a stiff soil, which is also the case with the Poplar gum - Patches of scrub appeared as we come lower down the creek. Some ~~wat~~ puddled waterholes of the scrub give us the necessary supply of water.
The flat country continued, the scrub increased and formed belts of various breadth along the creek. Fine open undulating country, interrupted however by bands of scrub extend to the North and NWest. This creek brought us to a River, with a broad sandy bed and high banks, lined by fine flooded gumtrees and casuarinas. It was entirely dry, but in a rushy swamp parallel to its banks fine water was found. I named this River, "the Isaacks". From lat. 22°20' to lat. 21°35' we travelled along the Isaacks in a NNWesterly course, following it up to its heads.-
The bed of the River was dry with some few exceptions, until we came to the Sandstone Range near its heads. Blackfellows wells were frequent and the presence of fine waterholes in a more favourable season was indicated by a wreath of reeds surrounding dry basins.- The waterholes which supplied us with water were parallel to the River, or in little creeks joining it, with a puddled the rainwater being collected in puddled basins, these waterholes were generally at the outside of scrubs.
In latit. 22°11' a Range extends at the left side of the River parallel to it. I named it Coxens Peak and Range. It forms an excellent landmark.

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The River breaks through two Ranges, striking from NW - SEast and its heads are at the Northside of the most northern one in an st undulating country. Flats 1-2 miles broad accompany the River. A belt of scrub, sometimes very narrow separates them from a more undulating or hilly openly timbered country farther off the River. Silverleaved Ironbark is the prevailing timber of the hills and ridges.- Between the 2 Ranges of the upper course plains extend, which, well provided with water for belong to the finest country we have met, f and are highly adapted for any pastural purpose, particularly for the breeding of cattle and horses.
At the end of february and at the commencement of march we had for several days a drizzling rain.
From the heads of the Isaacks we came to small creeks collecting into a common watercourse, going at first to the Northward, afterwards to the Westward and even SWest. I called this "Suttors creek". Open Ironbark slopes small plains, render it very fit for cattlestations. But, as the lower part of this creek, as well as the River which it joins and which I called "the Suttor" get very scrubby, it may be rather considered as a continuation of the Isaacks, from which the access to it is easy. The River Suttor, which I followed down from Lat. 21°22'36" to 20°37'13" has in its upper course fine reedy waterholes. The flats which accompany its banks are openly timbered, but they change with thick scrub and rocky country. In Lat. 21°39'58" it splits into anabranches, enters a thick scrub and becomes deficient in water. At lat. 21°37'31" however there is a most magnificent sheet of water a little lake in its bed. Between 21°33' and 32' it entirely disappears as a distinct watercourse and forms chains of waterholes, which were however well supplied with water. The country opens at about 21°20', a big creek joining the Suttor from the SouthEast. Primitive rocks appear

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amongst Sandstone rock and a Limestone hill was observed in lat. 21°6'. A River as large as the Suttor which I called "the Cape" joins from the Westward. It turns in lat. 20°41' round a fine isolated Mountain, which I named "Mt. Maconnel" and joins a large running stream, with a bed 1 mile broad, which comes from the NW. and turns to the Eastward. I made my first camp in the bed of this River in lat. 20°37'13" and called it, "the Burdekin" as an aknowledgment of the liberal support, which I received from Mrs. Burdekin in forming my expedition.
Fine flats accompany the Suttor in its lower course. The grasses are very various and dense. There is particularly one grass, the oaten grass of the Isaacks which grows to a considerable height and the stem of which is very juicy and sweet. But besides this there are at least 20 different grasses, with various herbs, which cattle and horses were fond to feed upon.- Water is abundant, the waterholes are often very long and broad and covered with ducks. - It is even running 5 miles above its junction with the ~~Sutt~~ Burdekin. The Pandanus was first observed here; and in its bed, round old fireplaces of blackfellows we found the empty shell of the fruit of Cycas the tree of which we first observed at the upper Burdekin. A new species of Grevillea was equally found and the Poplargum was frequent.- The drooping teatree, which grows to a great size in its bed yields an excellent timber. The bloodwood and Ironbark are generally of a good size for building huts. There was also no want of timber at the Isaacks, nor at the Burdekin.
I travelled along the Burdekin from lat. 20°37'13" to lat. 18°32'37" through 2°4'36" of latitude in a NW by West course and I had to leave it, probably still about 50-60 miles distant from its head, as it turnt too much to the Northward and Eastward.-
Almost the whole extend of its banks is available for pasturing purposes.

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The caracter of the country is various; fine Ironbark and Boxflats, open ridges, high Ranges off the River, sometimes approaching the River rendering the passage very difficult. Those who follow me will find easier roads off the River - the River supplied with abundance of water by living springs and brooks coming from a basaltic tableland - Creeks provided with waterholes, with broad sandy beds lined with Casuarinas are numerous. At lat. 20°8'26[?]", at 20°0'[?]36, at 19°49'41", at 19°13', at 18°59' at 18°52' large creeks and Rivers join the Burdekin.-
From the Suttor up to Lat. 19°58'11" the whole country is composed of Granite and Sumitic[?] Rock. Pegmatite and Hornblende Rock are frequent. At19°58' I first observed Basalt; at 19°54' a fine limestone with many fossil corals crops out. But higher up the River Basaltic ridges are prevailing, which are several times interrupted in Quarzporphyry (lat. 19°18'6; 19°13') Both rocks seem to have broken through Talkchiste[?] Sandstone and Conglomerate.
For latitude 18°48'9" we entered into a large valley with numerous lagoons at the eastside of which the river past came down whilst a reedy brook swept along the basaltic ridges which bounded it to the southward. The lagoons were covered by Nymphaeas (the Lotus), the seed repels and rhizoma of which formed the principal foods of numerous blackfellows. I called this country, "the valley of Lagoons" or the country of the Lotophagians". - After ascending the basaltic ridges, which surrounded the valley to the South, the West and NWest, we found ourselves on a level country, openly timbered with narrowleaved Ironbark or Box, the forest changing, with fine plains, sometimes many miles long and several miles broad. Often a small brook was running in them. To a very conspicuous mountain on the basaltic

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tableland I gave the name "Mount Lang".
A big creek sweeps along the East and NEast side of this plateau and separates it from Primitive formations. The frequency of the Big fantastic hills of the white ant, which I had not seen before of such a size, induced me to call it "Big Anthill Creek". At Lat. 18°16'37" ~~This creek~~ running brooks come down along the plains of the tableland from Mt Lang and several other isolated hills and join Big Anthill creek.- In leaving the Burdekin I followed up this creek, past in a NNW direction over a level country and came in lat. 18°2'22" on waters which flowed to the East and NEast they either belong to the Burdekin, or to a more northerly system. I called the first creek I came to "Separation Creek" as it separated the Basaltic from the Primitive formations as Big Anthill Creek had done. Several other creeks joined it lower down. Fine flats extend along its banks. The whole tableland is beautifully grassed, of great extend, well provided with water along the creeks the brooks and the River: but in the dry season waterless in its centre. This country is a pattern for cattle and sheep and stations; the elevation of it (at least 2000 - 2800' above the level of the sea) render it cool and fit for sheep: the ground is sound, the forest is very open. It is in the Centre of the York Penninsula, equally distant from the Eastcoast and from the gulf of Carpentaria, to which, as I shall presently show, a system of Rivers, well provided with water, forms an easy communication, with the exception of some mountaineous passages which later travellers will change with easier roads farther off the rivers.
It would be tedious to mention the numerous mountain Ranges along the Burdekin, to some of which I gave names, leaving many of them nameless.

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About 14 miles from Separation creek, in a N & NW direction I come on gullies and creeks, which collected into ~~one~~ a watercourse going to the Westward. In latitude 17°58' we found a fine reedy waterhole, below which another bigger creek joined from the Northward. - The bed became very broad (in some places more than half a mile) with several channels, which however collected again in passing through mountain gorges. I called this River "The Lynd" in aknowledgment of the infinite kindness, which This gentleman has bestowed upon me. - I followed it down from 17°58' to 16°30', where it joins a River coming from the East. -
The Lynd works it way in a Nwesterly course through a very mountaineous country from 17°58' to 17°9'17". There is however plenty of grass and water, to feed any number of cattle or horses, which might be driven down to the gulf. Several big running creeks come in from the westward. They will probably ~~form~~ allow the a more immediate communication with the head of the gulf.- From 17°9'17" fine flats well grassed accompany the River, they are timbered with Box, Applegum (a new species of gum, with the foliage of the appletree of darling Downs and with the blackbutt of the Moreton Bay ash) Bloodwood and occasionally stringy Bark.- We past several fine lagoons on the flats along its lower course. It had a running stream from lat. 17°25'. The rock of the upper Lynd is primitive: Granite, Srenile[?], Pegmatile, Hornblende; lower down Talkchiste[?] broken by Porphyry appear and before the river enters the flats it is accompanied by Sandstone Ranges, which in some places form steep perpendicular walls on both sides of the broad sandy bed.
It is interesting to see, how we descend from the tableland to the gulf through the same series of rocks, through which we had ascended from

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the east coast along the Burdekin, only in an inverted order.- Many new trees ~~on the Ra~~ made their appearance on the Ranges as well as along the River and within its bed. I shall mention a gumtree with showy orange blossoms & very big seedvessels 2" long 1" broad, with a short foliaceous bark, the upper branches remaining white and naked. We called it Teatreegrum, as the foliaceous nature of the bark reminded us of the Teatree. This tree was not observed at the Eastside of the gulf, but reappeared very extensively at the Westside up to Pt Essington, forming the even forest round Victoria:- Several other foresttrees, intermediate between the Bloodwood and the gumtree were observed. All these trees are however of no use to the settler or squatter, as their fibre of their coat is too interwoven, to allow splitting; nor is their bark easily stript. The Ironbark disappears where the Lynd enters into the flats, and it is wanting all round the gulf. At the neck of the Coburg peninsula is a tree which resembles the Ironbark, but it is rare and differs essentially from it. The Stringy Bark, the Bloodwood and the Box are the only forest trees which accompanied us to the end of our journey allways reappearing, where the soil favoured their growth.
From Latitude 16°30' to 15°51' we travelled along a fine River with a running stream, now narrow and shallow, now swelling into fine long sheets of water. I called it "the Mitchell" in honor of Sir Thomas Mitchell, ~~the~~ a belt of open forest accompanies its banks; farther off the country opens more and more and changes into a series of plains extending parallel to the River. They are limited by a forest of small acacia trees and several others, which I have not yet been able to determine. Lagoons became larger and larger and more frequent, as we travelled down the River, the country improved the plains grew bigger, the forestland richer, receding farther from

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the River. In a large waterhole of the Lynd we found a dead sawfish (Pristis) in those of the Mitchell alligators were seen by my blackfellows. I expected that the Lynd and afterwards the Mitchell would turn to the westward and join the sea in latitudes, where the Van Diemen, the Staaten, the Nassau were indicated, but the Mitchell past the latitude of the Nassau and I could now only expect to see it join the sea at the [Waterplaets?], to which its general course inclined. I had followed these rivers, more out of scientific and geographical interest, than for the benefit of my expedition: for I was compelled to go back in order to head the gulf. If my provisions had been sufficient, I should have followed the Mitchell up to its mouth, but afraid, that I should be short of provisions I left the River and went to the westwards. Plains, open forestland, lagoons full of fish and covered with the broad leaves and showy blossoms of Nymphaea gave a great variety to this fine country, well adapted for the breeding of cattle and particularly of horses, though deficient of good timber.- Here at one of the lagoons in lat. 15°55', not very far from a large creek, which I consider the upper part of the Nassau, Mr Gilbert was killed by blackfellows, who had sneaked upon us immediately after nightfall, just when the greatest part of the party had retired to their couches. They wounded Mr Roper and Mr Calvert severely, but Mr Gilbert was ~~alone~~ the only one, who received a deadly wound, a spear entering into the chest between the neck and the clavicle, at the moment, when he was stooping to get out of his tent. At the first discharge of our guns the blackfellows ~~escaped~~ run away. The next morning they were waiting for one of their number, who ~~seemed~~ it seems, to had been severely wounded. They left the country and we did not see any more of them.

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I passed the Staaten in lat. 16°27'26"; it is a river with broad sandy bed, easily to be crossed at low tide, its water is brine:- Between the Staaten and the Van Diemen, which I crossed at lat. 17°0'13", I past 4 creeks, all provided with waterholes and fine water. Between the Staaten and Gilberts Lagoon I found 3 creeks with water - the country along both rivers is excellent. Between the Van Diemen and the Caron (lat.17°28'11" I past a small river, which had no name and which I called "the Gilbert" in commemoration of the fate of my unfortunate companion. Its lat. was about 17°5'. It contained numerous waterholes of freshwater, but was not running. A fine chain of lagoons is between the Van Diemen and the Gilbert, 7 creeks with water between the Gilbert and the Caron. Towards the latter River, which had no water in its bed, but chains of lagoons parallel to its banks, the creeks were lined by a dense teatree scrub, of1/2 mile or more broad. The teatree is of a peculiar species, which allways indicates the neighbourhood of saltwater. In lat. 17°49' we came on a saltwater River, which I called "the Yappar", this word being frequently used by friendly blackfellows, whom we met at one of the fine lagoons alongside the River. Between the Yappar and the Caron there is a chain of shallow lagoons of freshwater. The whole country from Gilberts lagoons to the Yappar, extending along the East coast of the Gulf of Carpentaria is highly adapted for pastural pursuits. Cattle and horses would thrive exceedingly well, sheep would not. Neither the climate, the temperature, nor the nature of the soil is favourable for them. Large plains limited by narrow belts of green forestland, extensive Boxflats and teatree flats openly timbered, changing with a more undulating country,

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fine grassy meadows along frequent chains of lagoons, and shady forestland along the Rivers render this country pleasing to the eye of the traveller and inviting to the squatter. After what I have learnt of the cultivation of rice and cotton I can add that long stretches of country would be adapted for both. The country is well inhabited by blackfellows; we had 3 times an intercourse with them, the first time they were hostile (when Gilbert was killed), the second time they were very noisy, but withdrew at the approach of a horseman and were not seen again; the 3rd time (at the Yappar) they were very friendly and it was evident that they had seen either Malays or white men before us. I called the whole country between the Mitchell and the Van Diemen "the Nonda country" from a fine shady tree with a yellow eatable fruit, which we enjoyed very much. It grew in the stretches of open forestland with the bloodwood and the Pandanus. I had seen it first at the upper Lynd. It disappeared at the Van Diemen and we never met it again. Between the Yappar (longit. 140°45' approx.) and "the Nicholson "(long 138°55' which latter river I crossed in lat 17°57' I past 3 big saltwater rivers, 1 fine running creek which I called "Beames's Brook") and several chains of freshwater lagoons. The country west of the Yappar is undulating and hilly forestland, frequently scrubby, for an extend of about 20 miles. Here it opens in immense plains, some of them 3 miles broad 10 miles long and longer. The plains stretch along the banks of the Rivers and are separated by creeks, lined by ~~scrub~~

[Page 19]

thickets of a small tree, which we called Rawsberry yam tree, from the scent of its wood which reminded us of Rawsberry yam. These creeks had fine waterholes, but they were all for the greater part dry. We found our water principally in grassy lagoons, surrounded by [Polygosiumi?]; But the country is in general badly watered, though the number of blackfellows, the smoke of whose fires we saw all around us, in crossing the plains, showed that a nearer acquaintance of the country would probably lead to the discovery of a sufficient supply of water. Beames's brook which I crossed in lat. 17°57' was about 20 yards broad, when I first met it. A rich verdant brush of Pandanus and the Palmtree and several other trees lined it. Its water was fresh, but affected by the tide. At the crossing place (about 8 miles lower down) it was 3 yards broad, very deep in some places, shallow in others, a full flowing little stream, with magnificent oaktrees and palms, and Pandanus and flooded gums along its banks. We never had met nor did we meet another brook like it again. About 3 miles farther we crossed "the Nicholson" called so in honor of Dr. William A. Nicholson, who had enabled me to come to Australia, to explore it and to study its nature. ~~Dr. Nicholson the first mover of an overland Expedition to Pt. Essington.~~ Its bed is 100 yards broad, sandy, with magnificent drooping teatrees, a shallow running stream, floodmarks 15- 18' high, a chain of fine Lotus lagoons [paraleil?] to its banks, which are accompanied by fine Boxflats at its left. The saltwater rivers which I had crossed, as well as those, which I have still to mention are very broad (150-200-300 yards): but they were easily fordable after 1-2 days travelling ~~along~~it upwards

[Page 20]

the fords generally being formed by rocky bars, crossing the River. These fords were generally indicated by fisheries of the natives : sticks having been stuck close to each other, to form a sort of hedge, preventing the fish from returning with the tide, or stone walls having been formed by heaping loose stones on each other. At the head of the saltwater the bed of these rivers usually enlarged, and frequently it was formed by 2-3 deep channels separated by high [bergues?]. One channel either contained a running stream of freshwater, lined by Pandanus and the drooping teatree, or the it had just ceased running, a chain of fine waterholes still remaining. From the Nicholson to the Roper (lat. 14°50' longit. 135°10') we travelled through a country, in part miserably scrubby, in part covered by a dense teatree forest and by stringy bark forest, which was sometimes open, but generally scrubby and rendered difficult for passage by a dense underwood. There was particularly ~~one~~ a leguminous shrub, from 2-3-5' high with a winged stem and branches, leafless with yellow blossoms (like [Prossinea scolopendrium?]) which composed the scrub and the underwood of this country. Several species of scrubby acacias and several grevilleas were very frequent. The vegetation preserves the same caracter all along the Westside of the gulf, across the Arnhem penninsula and up to Pt Essington, wherever the soil is similar. - Along large rivers the country opened and fine Boxflats and open forestland refreshed the eye tired by the endless scrub. It is very probable that farther from the seacoast and higher up the Rivers before they enter into the mountains a fine favourable country exists. The country is in general well watered. Numerous creeks provided with

[Page 21]

good waterholes and several Rivers with running streams at the head of the saltwater go in a NEasterly course, which changes into an ENE and Easterly one, to the sea. Between the Nicholson and "the Marlow" (lat.17°[0'0"?] named after Capt. Marlow of the Royal [Ingeneers?] for his kind contribution to our Expedition, we met numerous creeks 4 of which contained either fresh, or slightly brackish water. The first (lat. 17°39') I called Moonlight creek, as I had found it on a reconnoitre during a moonlight night, another about 15 miles N.30"W I called "Smith's Creek", a third I met in lat. 17°25', a fourth about 11 miles NNW. ~~Several oth~~ The whole country was covered with an almost uninterrupted teatree scrub. Between the Marlow (longit. 138°25' appr.) and the Van Alphen (lat. 16°30' long. 137°48' I past 6 creeks containing a greater or smaller supply of fresh or brackish water. Some of the very isolated waterholes were very small and often very brackish); 4 creeks 10-20 yards broad were salt, the water filling their whole bed. They were easily fordable, as the bed was composed of a firm sand, or of rock. The 3 most southern ones probably join into a large River, ~~which~~ the Mangrove line of which I saw in the distance. I called the most southern one "Turners ~~Cowper~~ Creek" in aknowledgment of the liberal support I received from of Cowper Turner Esq. In lat. 16° 52' ~~22"~~, about 18 miles SE. from the Van Alphen the country opens and fine plains extend along a big creek, though badly supplied with water. In the bed of this creek I found a piece of granit and near another about 8 miles WNW from this a large piece of Porphyry in an old blackfellow's camp. This piece had served to crush the seedvessels of the Pandanus, which grows abundantly all along these creeks.

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These pebbles show, that the tableland or the division of the waters is not very distant, as I found the primitive rocks almost invariably connected with at least the ascent to a table land. Between the Van Alphen and the Abel Tasman (lat. 116°29') I past a big creek (lat. 16°35') and a small River well supplied with water, which I called "the Calvert" in commemoration of the good services of my trusty companion Mr James Calvert. Sandstone rock cropt frequently and in the open stringy bark forest, which covers the greater part of the intervening country. Sandstone Ranges were seen to the West and NW. The lower part of the Abel Tasman forms a broad sheet of saltwater, the banks are steep, lined with Mangrove and several trees peculiar to the change of fresh and saltwater, as I feel convinced that during the raining season the freshes go far out into the sea. The flats along the River are well grassed, openly timbered with Bloodwood, and Stringy Barks and Whitegum. In Lat. 16°29' the water is fresh, and running strong over a rocky bed, the stream is about 3' deep 15-20 yards broad, the whole bed from bank to bank 300 yards. Between the Abel Tasman and the 7 Emu River (long. 137°5') lat. 16°12' I crossed 7 creeks containing pools of water, some of them brackish; 4 had of a fine supply of it. The whole country is a succession of teatree and Cypress pine thickets and scrubs. - A fine open well grassed country extends along the 7 Emu River which received its name from numerous flocks of Emus, 7 of which were hunted down, as we travelled 8 miles up its banks. We met soon the freshwater streams which we crossed at a blackfellows well and a fishery. Between the 7 Emu River and the "Robinson" (lat. 16°8' long 135°43') several small waterless creeks were met, after having past the fine country near the River

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and some miserable scrub. A fine path of the natives led me to a large, but waterless creek, the banks of which were covered with Cypress pine and [Cycas?] groves (the Cycas a tree of the aspect of the palm 30-50' high and higher, frequently with 2 or 3 heads, the leaves like those of [Zamia?] spiralis in the neighbourhood of Sydney, the nuts arranged in 2 parallel lines along an intermediate flat fleshy fruitstalk.) This footpath went from Cycas grove to Cycas grove; big wells 6-8 deep were dug in a sandy soil, which rested on a layer of stiff clay. All these wells were however dry, though the whole country looked fresh and verdant.- About 5 miles from this creek we came to a large saltwater River, equally accompanied by Cycas groves. A fine footpath brought us to a large well under the bank of the River. An alligator was tracked at this well and porpoises were seen playing in the broad saltwater of the river. Two miles below the spot, where we came on the River it entered into a still bigger one coming from the Westward. The first became narrow 5 miles higher up, ~~to which~~ where the saltwater ceased and freshwater pools commenced.- I called this ~~creek,~~ "Cycas Creek" and the more northerly River "the Robinson" as a slight sign of gratitude towards [P L?] Robinson Esq. for his kind support of our expedition. The fruit of Cycas forms one of the principal food of the natives during Septbr. - They cut it in slices of the size and thickness of a shilling, spread these slices on the ground and dry them, soak them for several days in water, and pack them after this closely up in sheets of ~~stringy bar~~ teatree bark. Here it undergoes a process of fermentation. The deliterious properties of the fruit are destroyed and a mealy substance

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with a musty flavour remains, which the blackfellows very probably form into cakes, which they bake.- the fruit of the Pandanus forms another apparently very much liked eatable of the natives. We found heaps of them in their camps and soaking in the water contained in large Koolimans made of stringy bark. I am inclined to believe, that they ~~prepar~~ are able to obtain a fermented liquor, by soaking the seed vessel of the Pandanus, and by washing the sweet mealy substance out, which is contained in the ~~part~~ lower part of the seed vessel between its fibres. Between the Robinson and the Macarthur (lat. 16°5'26" long 136°10'), named after Messrs William and James Macarthur ~~for~~ in aknowledgement of their kind support of my expedition, I crossed a fine creek with a chain of deep ~~waterp~~ pools and 2 waterless creeks.- The whole country is a stringy bark forest mixed with Melaleucagum, with Cypress pine thickets and Teatree scrub. About 5 miles from the creek we had an interview with a tribe of blackfellows, who gave evident signs that they knew the gun and the knife. They were very friendly and we exchanged some presents with them. They were circumcised as all the blackfellows of the gulf, we had seen . The head of a crocodile was seen at Cycas creek; the carcass of another I found at the upper crossing place of the Robinson, tracks were observed by Charley at the waterhole of the creek between the Robinson and the Macarthur.- The country along the Macarthur is well grassed and openly timbered for 1/2 - 1 1/2 mile off the river - Sandstone Ranges commence at lat. 16°5'25". 2 miles higher up it is fordable, a running stream of freshwater enters the broad saltwater River; its bed gets broad, sandy, with the vegetation of the Lynd - and fine plains extend

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along its banks to the Westward. Between the Macarthur and the ~~Limnenbight River (lat.16°5' long 135°30'~~ Red Kangooroo River I past three fine creeks, well provided with water. The most southern is about 10 miles NW from the crossing place of the Macarthur; the 2nd a pandanus creek is only 1 1/2 mile from the former and joins it lower down; the 3th about 9 miles NNW farther. I called this [Herculia?] creek as the Herculia heterophylla (!) grows very frequently along its lower course. The Red Kangooroo River (lat. 15°35') has a broad sandy bed, 2 channels, ~~div~~ separated by a broad high [bergue?]; the northern channel has a fine supply of water in numerous waterholes, the connecting stream of which had just ceased running. A fine lagoon textends along its southern bank about 1/2 mile from the River. The country near the crossing place of the Macarthur is intersected by rocky sandstone Ranges towards the first creek teatree forest and boxflats render the travelling easy - Sandstone Ranges were seen to the left. From the 2nd creek to Red Kangooroo River the country is a miserable scrubby Ironbark forest. From the Red Kangooroo River to Limnen bight River (lat.15°5' long 135°30') we past through a continuous low dense scrub. In four creeks intersecting our course we found either fresh or brackish water. The Sandstone Range which I just mentioned continued to our left. In this scrub, 29 miles long allmost all the ~~litt~~ small trees had been thrown down by a violent wind; they lay from SE-NW - In Pt Essington I learnt from Capt Macarthur that a hurricane had past over Victoria in 1838 and I saw the trees, which it had uprooted; they lay in the same direction as those of Limnen bight and I feel assured, that the same hurricane has past over the west coast of the gulf of Carpentaria. In

[Page 26]

In latitude 15°14' I came to the seacoast. I went in a NW course to the northern extremity of the Sandstone Range, indicated in the map of Arrowsmith. We saw the sea, an island (Maria?) and a large River ~~goin~~coming from the westward; white sandplains were seen along its course. I had to find my way through an intricate country, intersected by saltwater creeks. Freshwater was howev found in creeks coming from sandstone Ranges; their heads were frequently formed by fern swamps (a species of [Blackrium?] was very frequent.) In lat. 15°31' I crossed the saltwater River by a rocky bar. Ten miles farther to the NW I met a second branch of the same river with a fine broad bed, several channels, fresh water in detached pools which just had ceased running, lined with Pandanus and drooping teatrees. Both branches are of equal size and probably of come from an equal distance. - Capt Wickham has explored the lower part of the River and probably one of its branches. I do not know, whether Capt, Wickham has given a name to these rivers. I called the lower part of the Limnenbight River and its northern branch "the Wickham" in honor of the successful explorer of this coast and of the NW coast of Australia. Between the Wickham and the Roper (lat.14°50' long. 135°10') the country is badly watered. Though we past 9 creeks, 2 of which were very considerable, we found water only in the pools of 2, after having followed them down for a considerable distance. The country is very remarkable, particularly after leaving the Wickham. Steep sandstone Ranges parallel to each other, with a direction from SW - NEast intersected our sw course, they were separated by teatree flats, but at their foot generally a richer vegetation of Pandanus, of the leguminous Ironbark and of bloodwood

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existed, which had me mistake them for the verdant belt of trees accompanying rivers and big creeks. From these top of the ranges, still more Ranges appeared, one above the other till their dim outlines were lost in the ~~blue~~ misty blue of the horizon. My horses and cattle got very footsore and I was compelled to go to the northward, in order to get out of these ranges.- After having past over teatree flats, I entered again into scrubby Stringy bark forest with patches of Cypress pine thickets. The creek with water was in lat. 15°10'. Towards the Roper Sandstone ranges reappear; fine boxtree flats with dry watercourses stretch from S by W - N by E. But they are limited towards the river by a narrow belt of thick scrub. Plains with th groves or thickets of the rawsberry yamtree and overgrown with [Salecornia?] indicate the neighbourhood of saltwater. A fine open country, undulating or hilly extends along the Roper and fine lagoons, some 2-3 miles long covered with ducks and wild geese are parallel to the river 1/4 - 2 miles off. I followed the Roper from lat 14°50' - 14°40' long 134°16') but I came again on its upper course and I believe that the creeks, which I past from lat 14°40' to 13°44' (long 133°45' appr.) belong to the system of that river, and I equally believe that the corresponding waters to the NW belong to the system of the South alligator, on the main branch (?) of which river I came much later in descending from the tableland into the valleys to the westward. I observed the tide to lat. 14°44', where the bed of the river assumes the caracter of the Lynd and many rivers, I mentioned before. - As far as the tide extends, the river is from 150-200 yards brought, deep, with steep banks, lined with dense hedges of Pandanus of the drooping teatree and several other brushtrees, amongst which a Jasmine, which

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was in blossom and rendered the air fragrant with the perfume of its flowers. Vines hung from tree to tree and a fine leguminous climber (Kennydia?) with green flowers, big pods, a big brown seeds grew in great abundance. These seeds crushed and boiled ~~were~~ formed a tolerable, satisfying food; it appeared that the blackfellows did crush it on stones, which were in all the camps along the River. This strip of brush was however very narrow and cannot be compared with River brushes of Moreton Bay which I have not met in an equal extend during my whole expedition. A big creek came in from the Southwest in lat. 14°40' and a branch, as big as the main branch came from the Northward. The country along the River is openly timbered and particularly its upper part, which opens into fine plains would be well adapted for pastural purposes, there are however many rocky ranges, bluff isolated hills and mountains, which frequently approach the River and render the travelling along its banks difficult. The Rock which composes these Ranges is a fritted sandstone and indurated clay - regularly, horizontally stratified. - In latitude 14°39' the plains commence; the river splits into a great number of channels, allmost all with a running ~~stream let~~ streamlet, every one lined with Pandanus and teatree - I suppose that the main branch turns off to the SouthW and WSW, as even the branch which I followed turns considerably to the SWest. The banks of the River are inhabited by numerous blackfellows. We had friendly intercourse with them at the its lower part; at the plains Charley and Brown, my blackfellows, asserted to have seen 4 of them coming up to our camp at nightfall in order to attack us, they ran however away, when they saw that we were prepared to receive them even without the discharge of a gun.

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After leaving this branch of Roper, ~~which~~ as its course is in lat. 14°40' long 134°11', a living spring t coming out of a gentle rise beyond the plains, I past in a new direction through a country in which ridges, flats and sandstone ranges frequently changed. In lat.14°33' I came to a big creek with a good waterhole; in 14°24' basalt first made its appearance at the foot of sandstone Ranges. A creek, which I met here was waterless, but in one of the gullies which go down to it, a small rocky basin of water fed by a spring was found. Both creeks go down to the SE and join the Roper. Having ~~passing~~ past these Ranges, I came to a large fine valley, the SE and Eastside of which was limited by basaltic ridges. A watercourse turning to the SWest brought one to a fine running brook lined with groves of a Pandanus. The basaltic ridges made me believe that I was at the head of westerly waters; but the Pandanus brook turnt to the Southward and as I met in lat. 14°16' a large creek with a sandy bed, about 10 yards brought, with filled by a rapid stream running to the Southward, ~~that~~ which is joined by the Pandanus brook, I feel assured that I was again at the Roper, the main branch of which had probably made a large sweep at first to the westward and afterwards to the Northward.- I followed the big creek up its course to lat. 14°2' 4. The country is in part very fine, but it becomes more and more mountaineous and the flats along its banks become more and more limited.- Leaving the creek and ascending the Sandstone Ranges, I came to a tableland, ~~with~~ level, with sandy soil, Cypress pine and stringy bark forest, frequently scrubby. Watercourses and gullies went down to the SEast and SWest - both were collected by larger creeks, joining the Roper.

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I met one of these creeks ~~to the Seast~~, running to the SE with fo grassy lawns along it banks in lat. 13°57'. Another with the direction to the SWest in lat. 13°50'. My course changed between NW and NNW.- In lat. 13°41' I came on the heads of the first westerly water, and found the first waterhole in its bed in lat . 13°38' long. 133°20'. Open, well grassed stony ridges accompany this creek, which I followed for several days. But as it turnt to far to the SW I left it again, following my old course to the NW. After having ~~past~~ crossed a very rocky creek, well provided with water, I came again to a tableland of the same description, as the former. But sandstone rock cropt out more frequently and formed into rocky ranges, cut by deep-gullies. From one of these ranges I had a view over the country before me and I allmost despaired of ever getting ~~through it~~ through it. Sandstone ridges behind sandstone ridges lifting their white rocky crests over the forest, deep gullies with perpendicular walls, ~~their b~~ rocky creeks with boulders loosely heaped in their beds, frequently interrupted by precipices over which the waters ~~during a~~ must form magnificent waterfalls during the rainy season.- I worked my way down to one of these creeks and followed it along its bed, until a precipice between two mountain walls compelled me to leave it, following a grassy lawn up to the Northward, I came to a kind of watershed and into another grassy lawn with a bit small creek, ~~which~~ which brought me to the deep ~~broad~~ valley of a River [long 133°6' added in margin] coming from the ~~Wes~~ East and going to the Westward. It was difficult to get down the steep slopes, but once down we found a fine provision of water in big holes, the water running

[Page 31]

through the loose pebbles, which fill the bed.
Having crossed the river and following a Northerly or NNWesterly course I past again over the tableland, from which numerous creeks, 1-2-3 miles distant from each other went down to the westward. They generally take their ~~rise~~ origine from rocky ridges rising out of the level land; frequently teatree & swamps are at the head of these creeks. ~~And water is~~ They soon become very rocky on both sides for 1/2 - 2 and 3 miles and open again in fine grassy flats, well provided with water, which is found in deep puddled holes of the creek. Still farther down they become rocky again, deep gullies join them from both sides, f higher or lower precipices interrupt their course and at last, arrived at the border of the tableland a fine broad valley is deep below them and their waters rush over a perpendicular ~~mount~~ wall 5-800 feet high, down into ~~the~~ a rocky basin, and into the channel, in which they flow to the westward to join the mainbranch of the South Alligator River.
The tableland is covered by forests of stringy bark, of melaleucagum and Banksia. Several grassy flats with a white gum (similar to the flooded gum) were observed. The drooping teatree grows in the swamps, 2 mentioned, to a great size: the grass is excellent in some of these swamps, but a sedge is prevailing, which, it appeared to me, was not so much liked by our cattle and horses, as ~~its~~ the deep colours of the young plant after late burnings made me first believe.
It was very difficult to find a passage down the tableland

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but I succeeded, though the descent was very steep even for our horses and pack bullocks. - This descent was about lat. 13°22' long 132°50'.
I dare say, that my passage, over the tableland would have been much simplified, by following the mainbranch of the Roper to its head, to pass over to Snowdrops creek and follow it down, notwithstanding its southing. For Snowdrops creek to all probability joins the flying fox River, which I consider the mainhead of the South Alligator. - This route would be ~~the only~~ practicable for cattle and horses which might be driven over to the westside, ~~mine~~ I could certainly not recommend my line of march. It is very remarkable that pegmatite ~~was~~ cropt out at the foot of the slope, where we made our descent, whilst at the top as well, as all over the tableland, when we met with rock, it was found to be a fritted sandstone.
The South Alligator R. is joined by a great number of creeks which, as far as we could see, f came down over a precipice and ~~probably for~~ must of course form as many waterfalls along during the rainy season. -
I followed the River to lat. 12°51'. At the upper part of the valley the River passes between a high Range and an isolated peak. At the foot of the former I observed Pegmatite again. Farther down large big lagoons, with an outlet into the River are very frequent. Farther off the River Ironsandstone Ridges covered with a scrubby forest, in which th a small fanleaved palmtree became more and more frequent, extend between small creeks, which go down to the River.

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The lagoons were surrounded by magnificent teatrees, and this outlet was lined by Pandanus Myriads of ducks and wild geese covered the water. The whole country had been burnt and the late thundershower had produced the most luxuriant grass. We experienced the first thunder shower at the 14th Novbr. at the tableland, after having been without rain from March 1845 with the exception of a shower in June and a drizzling rain at the 1st Septbr.
In lat. 12°51' large plains accompanied the River: either grassy with a rich loose black soil, or entirely bare with a stiff clayy soil. On plains of the latter Kind we first met a saltwater creek lined with mangroves. The River bank was ~~lined~~ covered with a thick vinebrush ~~and~~ gigantick teatrees, palms and Bamboos. In lat. 12o49' I came apparently to a River, with freshwater, lined with Pandanus, palmtrees pp[?] which joined the S.Alligator. I was compelled to go up its course, in order to head it. After about 3 miles travelling I found, that it was the outlet of a remarkable swamp which according to the statement of friendly blackfellows extended far to the Eastward.- The swamp was with few exceptions dry, its bed a stiff clay, cracked by the heat of the sun. Out of its bed, ~~island~~ small islands of Pandanus and of teatree R rose, either round, like a tuft of green grass, or long and irregular. Fortunately we were able to cross it. The blackfellows gave us to understand that a big lake or water is at its head. In the rainy season a passage would be impossible and the traveller would

[Page 34]

have to keep out far to the NEast from the upper part of the South Alligator or on the tableland, not only to avoid this big water, but to avoid being caught by the East alligator, which as I shall mention, compelled me, to go far to the south again in order to ~~head it~~ cross it.-
In an allmost northerly course I past over Ironstone ridges, covered with a rather scrubby forest, in which the small fanleaved palmtree became so abundant, that it formed allmost for itself the forest. A small tree which we called the gooseberrytree, as ~~its fruit~~ the taste of the ripe fruit resembled that of the gooseberry was very frequent. We had found it all along the westside of the gulf, we ~~past~~ crossed numerous creeks, the first to the SEast joined the swamp, the others to the westward. We met with water in lat. 12°38', 12°26'41", 12°21'49". Here I met with granit again, which cropt out in the bed of a fine creek with an abundant supply of water. At about 12°;17 I crossed a running brook, bubbling and murmuring like the mountain brooks of Europe. It was probably the outlet of a teatree swamp, its bed was rocky: a fine path of the natives past along its banks.
My northerly course brought me to an immense plains 6-7 miles broad and endless to the eye to the westward and Eastward. That part which was nearest to the forestland (which ended everywhere in Pandanus groves and Teatree hollows) was composed of a black soil and ruhly[?] grassed. Nearer to the ~~creek~~ saltwater creeks, which we met and which compelled us to return to the forest, the soil was a stiff clay, covered with a stiff dry grass. The saltwater creeks lined by mangroves.- We found water in a swamp along the forest.

[Page 35]

It was covered by geese and ducks. About 4 miles farther to the ENE friendly blackfellows showed us a number of deep wells (6-7' deep) which were dug through the sand to a layer of clay on which the water collected. We These wells were observed all along those big plains, which we past or crossed afterwards. It appears, that the blackfellows either dig them, because th open water is wanting, or because the water in swamps and lagoons is very bad, or because they want water in the immediate neighbourhood of those places, where they find abundant food during a certain season. I believe, that the latter is ~~mostly~~ generally the case, though the 2 other ones may occasionally compel them to procure water by digging.
At lat. 12°8' long.132°40' I came on the East Alligator and I saw myself compelled to go to the southward as far as lat. 12°23' in a SSEasterly course to cross the River.- Large plains accompany it all along its left bank, ridges and forestland are beyond the plains and along the outskirts of the forestland the wells of the natives are found. At the right side we observed conical and strangeshaped hills either isolated or connected in Short Ranges, and when we came to the higher part of the River rocky Sandstoneranges, rising abruptly out of the level of the plain appeared to surround the valley of the River. At the foot of these rocky ranges fine lagoons were found, which were so ch crowded with wild geese, that Brown, one of my blackfellows shot 6 at one shot.- The plains were full of melonholes and dead freshwater shells Limnaeus and Paludina were covering the ground.

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The valley of the upper Eastalligator R. which I rather should call goose River (for nowhere we observed so many geese - andthe alligators what is called Alligator, is no alligator but a Crocodile) - is one of the most romantick spots, I have seen in my wanderings. A broad valley, level, with the most luxuriant verdure; abrupt hills and ranges, rising everywhere along its East and Westside and closing it apparently at its southern extremity; lagoons forming fine sheets of water, scattered over it; a creek, though with saltwater winding through it.
After having crossed the River I went to the northward, past a plain about 8 miles long from which I saw bluff mountain heads to the NEast, which seemed to indicate the valley of a northerly River, entered the forestland past several creeks running to the Eastward (one at 12°11' with water) and followed a well trodden footpath of the natives which led me through rocky sandstone Ridges over numerous creeks running to the Westward to the broad sandy bed of a River, with fine pools of water, which I consider to be the freshwater branch of the East Alligator, coming from the easter. Not very far from the River we came to a fine lagoon (Bilge's Lagoon) was 12°6'.
I past the plain and entered the forestland. Just were the latter commenced on a swampy ground between sandstone creeks the first tracks of buffaloes were observed.
The forest covers an undulating country, in which the Ironstone frequently crops out. - A fine chain of lagoons ~~to the Eastward~~

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and a teatree swamp changing into a Pandanus creek were well supplied with water. Both went to the eastward. At the latter buffaloe tracks were seen again. (Lat.11°56')
We travelled in a Northerly course again through forestland and crossed a small plain, in which a Mangrove creek turnt to the Westward
And farther on a teatree swamp equally to the westward. On a fine plain we met a tribe of blackfellows (Nywall's tribe) which guided us to a goodsized lagoon. This plain extended far to the Northward and westward and two isolated peaks and two low Ranges were seen from it to the East and SEast. We crossed and skirted these plains in a NNW course and entered the forestland, which was undulating, with low Ironstone ridges, from which numerous creeks went down to Van Diemens gulf, along which we travelled. Blackfellows had guided us 2 days, but they left us at the neck of the Coburg peninsula, which we entered on a fine footpath. Keeping a little too much to the northward on the narrow neck, we came to easterly waters and to MontMorrisbay. I returned however again to the westward to come to westerly waters. Creeks are numerous on both sides and freshwater was frequent after the late thundershowers. I made my lat. At 11°32' on a westerly water, and at 11°25' on an easterly water (Baki Bakis creek.) Keeping a little too much to the North ward from the latter creek, I came to Rafflesbay, from which blackfellows familiar with the settlement guided us round Pt Essington to Victoria, which I entered at about 5 oclock the 17th Decbr 1845.

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Ridges composed of the clayy Ironstone (a ferruginous Psammite) which I ~~had frequently occasion to mention~~ found so extensively in travelling round the gulf, form the watershed in the neck of the Coburg peninsula and become more numerus and higher within the peninsula itself. Between Montmorris bay and Raffles bay I past several high ridges and a fine running creek about 15 miles from the heads of the Harbour. The ridges are ~~covered with a~~ rather densely wooded, the stringy Bark, the Melaleuca gum, the leguminous Ironbark are the prevailing timber. Along the creeks and in the swamps the teatree grows to a stately size and yields an excellent timber.of The stringy bark is useful for its bark and its wood. The Cypresspine is abundant on the neck of the penninsula. The Cabbagepalm, with long junnahpa[?] leaves grows along some of the creeks and even on the ridges and forms groves and allmost a forest at Montgegalk[?], between Rafflesbay and the Harbour. The small fanleaved palm is very abundant, the little gooseberry tree becomes a low shrub.
The tracks of buffaloes became more and more numerous, as we advanced on the neck of the penninsula. They formed at last a regular broadpath along the seacoast, sometimes skirting the Mangrove swamps, in which all the western and eastern creeks end, sometimes entering into the swamp itself. Farther on other paths turnt off into the forest or along creeks and formed a ~~reg~~ meshwork, which rendered it impossible for me to keep to the principal blackfellows footpath, leading from Nywalla Lagoon to the settlement. We saw frequently buffaloes as we went on

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and they were very numerous at Baki Bakis creek, which joins Montmorris bay. In riding along it, I saw 3 and 4 at the time hurrying out of the deep holes of water within the creek, to which they come in the heat of the day to cool themselves.- About 7 miles from Nywalls Lagoon we succeeded in shooting a fine beast of about 3 years old, which fortunate accident enabled me to bring my last packbullock to the settlement.- The buffaloes are equally abundant between Raffles bay and the harbour and the whole country particularly round Baki Bakis Bay and on the neck is as closely covered with buffaloe tracks as a well stocked catttlerun of NewSouthWales could be.
I entered Victoria with 1 packbullock and with 8 horses. We had killed 15, and had dried their meat. Along the East coast and at the Eastside of the gulf they kept in a very good condition and yielded a fine supply of fat meat, but at the Westside long stages, bad grass and several waterlife camps rendered them very weak and compelled me to kill them, the heaviest bullock of the lot scarcely yielding a fourtnights supply of meat. My horses did exceedingly well: they got several times footsore in passing a very rocky country, but they soon recovered on soft flats. At the Burdekin one broke its thighbone, we killed it and dried its meat: at the Lynd another died suddenly probably by the gripes. At the Roper 4 - the finest of the whole lot - were drowned, the banks being very steep and boggy and the River very deep - The loss of these was very heavy. I had to throw away the greatest part of

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my botanical and geological collections and my plans of returning overland, cutting off the angles of my route and keeping more to the eastward, were frustrated.
When our flour, our tea, our salt, our suggar was gone we lived on dried beef and water - and we lived well on it, as long as the beef was good. But at the latter part of the journey the beef got bad, as it was very poor and of knocked up beasts and as the moist seabreeze made it very liable to taint??? Fortunately the game became abundant round the gulf and we caught for instance in August 15 and in Septbr 16 Emus, every one of which provided meat for a day.-
At the head of the South Alligator blackfellows came up to us and I exchanged presents with them: they gave me the red ocker, which they seemed to consider as the best of their run. At the commencement of the plains a large tribe of blackfellows came to our camp and one of them pointed to the NW, when we asked where he got his tomihawk and a piece of shawl from. They knew [petchenelumbo?] (Van Diemens gulf). At the big Pandanus swamp another tribe of blackfellows guided us over the swamp and behaved very kind. They used the word Perigood (Very good - nogood - Mankiterra (Malays). At the mouth of the East Alligator Eooanberrys and Minorelles tribe were equally hospitable and kind. We met another tribe in travelling up the River and at its head. The latter were however noisy boisterous and inclined to theft.- At the North bank of the River we met Bilge's tribe, Bilge being the most [indecipherable] important pesonage amongst them. At Nywalls Lagoon Nywalls tribe treated us with [Imberbi?] (the root of a species of Convolvulus) and 2 blackfellows guided us two days farther. At Montmorris bay we met Baki Baki's and at Rafflesbay Billwhites's tribe and Bill White himself guided, us into the settlement.

[Transcribed by Terry (David) Walker for the State Library of New South Wales]