Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales

Log of the Proceedings of His Majesty's Ship Bounty Lieut. Wm Bligh Commander from Otaheite towards Jamaica, signed `Wm Bligh', 5 Apr. 1789 -13 Mar. 1790
Safe 1/47

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Log of the Proceedings of His Majesty’s Ship Bounty, Lieut. Wm. Bligh Commander from Otaheite towards Jamaica.

Wm. Bligh.

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Rems., Sundy. 5 April 1789

Fresh Breezes and Squally wr.

At ½ past 2 brought to, to leeward of Point Venus Reef. Hoisted the Cutter out and sent Tynah and his wife on shore with several others.

The boat returned loaded with cocoanutts and Breadfruit. Hoisted her in & made sail. One Tree Hill S.E.b.E. Toahroah Harbour S.S.E. 3 miles and the north part of Morea W. ½ S.

The extremes of Morea S.S.W. to S.W.b.W. ½ W.

I consider Toahroah Harbour to lie in Lat. 17° 31’26" S. & Long. 210° 31’37" E by my observ.

Saw Huheine [possibly Huahine] bearg. N.W.b.W ½ W.

The extremes of Huheine N.W.b.W. to W. ¾ N.

At ¾ past 10 the East end of Huheine 2. ½ E. 4 or 6 leags.

At ¾ past 11 the west end of Id. S. ½ E. Hauled round the N. end of the Isld.

The North end of Huheine E.b.S. ½ S. 4 miles. The N. point of Owharre Harbour S.b.E. 3 or 4 miles and the S.E. part of Ulietea S.W. ½ W.

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Rems.
Having made up the present I intended for my friend Tynah & his wife, the prospect of our final parting drawing so near, threw them into a great digree of grief, and were inconsolable for some time, untill I was obliged to point out to them the necessity of their going away, that my boat might return before dark. They however solicited me to stay one night longer with them, & to come to an Anchor in Matavai Bay, but as I could not consent to it, they took a very affectionate leave of me and we parted.

I have before mentioned that I intended at the request of Tynah to furnish him with two Musquets & two Pistols, and then stated my reason for it. Since that I have more particularly considered it my duty to fulfil my intention & have therefore left the Arms abovementioned with ammunition about 1000 rounds for one Piece. The rest of his present consisted of Shirts, Hatchets, Saws, Files, Gimlets, Knives, Looking Glasses, Nails and a great number of fine Toeys [?]. All this Treasure was safely landed with my most sincere & best wishes to them all.

The Boat being returned & hoisted in we bad farewell to Otaheite, where for 23 weeks we were treated with the greatest kindness, fed with the best of meat, and finest fruits in the World.

As I was apprehensive the Guns would rather hurt the Plants if fired, I did not comply with a request of Tynahs to salute him, but to show that he was of consequence all hands gave him three cheers, which they returned.

That I might get farther knowledge concerning Omai I steered for Huheine. I now gave my usual orders that no man was to be without His Jacket on after Dark.

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Rems. Mondy. 6th April 1789

Fresh gales & squally wr.

At 12 mins. past Noon the North pt. of Huheine E. ½ N.

At ½ past Noon wore ship & brought to. The North pt. of Owharre Harbour S.E.b.S ¼ E. 2 miles.

At 3 o’clock several Cannoes began to come off to us, & brought Cocoa Nutts, Yams, & one large Hog. Made sail & hove too occasionally.

At 6 Bore away under Single Reefs. Owharre Har. E. ¾ N. 6 or 7 miles and the S.E. part of Ulietea S.W.b.W ¼ N. I consider Owharre Harbour to lie in N. 41 S. & 208 54 E. agreeable to my observ. & run from Otaheite. Ulietea N.W.

Cloudy Wr.

Out Reefs M.T.

Some rain – Cut off 10 furl. B.B. Cable for Tunk. Leaned below & served cocoanutts & Breadfruit to all Hands & fresh Pork.

Mod. & cloudy. Under single Fore & miz. & whole main and Top Gallt. Sail.

Observations.
At 20h. 19’ Latd. 17° 22’ S. Longd. T.K. – 207° 56’ E.

Currt. [indecipherable] T. Keeper West 10 miles.

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Rems.

As I had no intention of anchoring at Huheine, I brought to off the North part of Owharre Harbour within 2 miles of the Reef & hoisted a Red Ensign which all the Islanders know perfectly well to be English. We could see every part of the Harbour very distinctly, and my attention was drawn particularly to were Omai’s House stood, no part of which remained. It was not untill 3 o’clock that any cannoes began to come off, for they at first supposed I was coming in, & I therefore imagined I should be disappointed in seeing any one, unless I remained untill the morning, which neither convenience or inclination led me to do. The first cannoe came off had three men in it with a few cocoanutts, & on my enquiries who was the Chief or Erreerahigh one of the fellows with the utmost gravity told me, he was, & that he had come off to tell me to bring the ship into the Harbour. I could not help laughing at the Mans impudence, I however gave him a few Nails for his Nutts & he left us. A large Dble. cannoe with 12 men immediately after came on board. Among these was a handsome young man, who the moment he saw me called me by name. This happened to be a fortunate circumstance, as it led particularly to the information I wanted, this being the very person who lived with Omai, & who we left with him, & of course could not fail of remembering me. The Wr. being squally & not able to keep the ship in with the land made the people anxious to be leaving us. This person’s information was short on that account, very short, but very clear. He said Omai died about 30 months after we left him, that Tivarooah & Coah died before Omai, and all of them of a natural death. That no animal remained except the Mare. Omai had a monkey with him which created great mirth among the Natives, they called it Oroo Tata or Hairy Man.

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This annimal he described, as did the People of Otaheite, to have fallen from a Cocoanutt Tree and was killed. The House he said was torn to pieces and stolen, and Omai’s fire arms were at Ulietea. The seeds & plants that were sown had been a long time destroyed, he however described one Tree remaining, but of what kind I could not find out.

He told me, he and Omai often road together, and described to me that Omai always road in Boots, so that it is evident he did not immediately after our leaving him, lay aside the Englishman. Perhaps as convincing a proof as any that Omai rode often, is, that several people have the representation of a Man on Horseback Tattowed on their Legs. This young man prest me much to let him to go to England, & asked particularly if no people from Huheine were ever to be permitted. I made him a present of a few articles, when he delivered a message to me from Tenanneeah the Erreerahigh, that I would bring the ship into the Harbour, and he would bring give me many Hogs, Yams, &c. &c. and was very anxious to see me but as I could not comply with his request, I desired he might be told. I sailed for England that in the evening without touching at Ulietea, about which they appeared a little jealous. Several other cannoes came off to us untill we made sail, in one of them came a Chief called Oomeeoro, who brought me a fine Hog & some fine Yams, for which I gave him a Hatchet, Knife, two Fish hooks & a looking glass besides some Nails. This Chief was also particularly solicitous for me to go into the Harbour & confirmed the accounts I had got before from Omai’s man. Several of the cannoes brought off Yams, so that in the whole I got about 150 lbs. No Breadfruit was brought off & but few

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Cocoanutts or Plantains, it this therefore highly probably that Omai has brought them to cultivate yams as being the most valuable Traffic with Europeans.

Among the People that were now about us there was one who cheated one of our men very cleverly. I had brought from Otaheite a great many [indecipherable] as food for the Ship’s company. Of these Apples one the Natives filled a basket & offering it to one of our men, who thought them better than those lying about the Decks, gave a Nail for it.

In making a few Boards endeavouring to keep in with the land, we discovered a poor man who had been thrown or oversat from some of the Cannoes swiming for the shore, where I think he never could have reached. We picked him up, & luckily another Cannoe came by which I was able to send him on shore. These People said the man was insane but I knew could not learn how he came in the water unless he had been designedly thrown into it as I thought they intimated.

The Isld. of Huheine is Hilly and very uneven, with several curious projecting rocks about the summits of some of the Hills. It is surrounded by flat land which abounds with Cocoa Nutts & Breadfruit, and which is also cultivated on the rising ground. The Beach along the North side is as white as snow, which is directly contrary to what it is at Otaheite. When the Isld. bears S.W.b.W. it will appear as two Islds. but it is there joined by a low Isthmus. The North end of the Isld. lies in latd. 16 40 S. & Long. 20° S. 54’ E. and N. 50° W. 94 miles from Toahroah Harbour. Owharre Harbour lies about 2 miles to the Southd. of the north point of the Island & has two entrances both intricate from the wind blowing mostly out. You have therefore no alternative but to luff in as far as you can and come too and warp into safety. This Harbour lies under the northn. high land of the Island.

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Rems. Tuesdy 7th April 1789

Fresh Breezes and cloudy W. & some squalls of Rain.

New Stocked the B.B. Anchor

In 1st Reff Main Sls.

Lightning.

Fair wr. & Hazy.

Served Fresh Pork Cocoanutts & Breadfruit to the People. Served Slops.
Compld. clean of below & drawing yarns.

[indecipherable] under whole [indecipherable] & Top Gall. Sails.

Observations.
At 4h. 38’ Latd. 17° 34’ S.
Longd. T.K. = 207 21 E.

At 7½ Latd. 17° 59’ S.
[indecipherable] 5° 45’ E.
& turned 5 45
Mean = 5 45 E.
At 8h. 2’ Latd. 17 59 S.
Longd. [indecipherable] = 206°. 2’ E.

Current by T.Keeper West 10 Miles.

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Rems. Wednesdy. 8th April 1789

Fair wr. and hazy

Strong squalls with Rain. Dble reefed the Top Sails.

Mod. & Cloudy

Out all Reefs M. Top Sl.

Out all Reefs Fore [indecipherable] and loos’d all stay sails to dry.
Fair Wr. and Hazy
Cleaned below and empd. working up junk.
Served fresh Pork & Plantains to all hands.

Fair Wr. & Hazy. Sick list 2, venereals & one man with a cold & old complaint from a fall off Cape Horn.

Observations.
At 4h. 34’ Latd. 18° 05" S.
Longd. T.K. = 205 15 E.

At 20h. 5’ Latd. 18° 8’ S.
Longd. T.K. = 204 04 E.
Varia P. Azth.
A [indecipherable] 6° 27’ E.
[indecipherable] 6 28
Mean = 6 27½ E.

Currt. by T.Keeper [indecipherable] 34° [indecipherable] 4 Miles.

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Rems. Thursdy. 9th April 1789

Fair wr. and Cloudy

Squally & Rain.

M. 1st Reefs

Modt. and Cloudy

Set starbd. Studg Sls.

Very squally. In all sails. The vortex of a water spout passed within 10 yds. of us.

Cleaned below. Served fresh Pork and Plantains to all Hands.

Empld. working up junk.

Open Cloudy wr. Under all sails.

Observations.
At 20h. 00’ Latd. 18° 15’ S.
Longd. T.K. = 202 19 E.
(a) See Dr. Franklin’s description of a Water Spout from whence I borrow this comparison.

Current So. 9 miles.

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Rems.

About nine o’clock in the morning the weather turned very squally and a large body of black heavy clouds collected in the East. Soon afterwards a water spout appeared, the column of which was seen to great advantage from the clouds being jet black behind it. To give an Idea of its size, it appeared about 2 feet broad at the upper part & about 8 Inches at the lower. I had scarce made these observations when I observed it advancing rapidly towards me, the sea in the vortex giving great proof of the strength of the whirlwind. I therefore took in all the sails but the Fore sail & stood across it, and it pass’d with 10 yds. of our stern without our feeling the least effect from it. I never in my life was so near one of those water spouts as to form any judgement before of the nature of it. There was no visible connection between the column & the water below. The vortex occupied a space nearly a circle, of 6 yards in Diameter, the center of which from the whirling the force that it had, was just the same as it would be in a Tub of equal size, if the water was suddenly let from it through a Hole in the center of its bottom. From the outer parts of the circle the water was thrown up with much force, but still preserved a spiral motion very visible for about 15 or 20 feet high, at this height I could see no more of it, or of its junction with the column above, which was higher than our mast heads. The center of the vortex (to which I paid much attention) was not raised, but formed a hollow, as may be conceived from my comparison, except that it was not near so large as such an experiment would prove if the hole should me [be ?] more than two or three inches diameter. It created a rustling noise, and past the us at the rate of 10 miles per hour & dispersed about ¼ of an hour afterwards. In the center of

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The whirl was a collection of froth about the size of a man’s Head. This, however it did not appear to me that the water raised at the center of the vortex; yet is certainly the ascending whirlwind as described by Doctor Franklin.

When these water spouts are seen at a distance, the point of the spout is frequently seen nearly in contact with the sea, the dark surrounding clouds seen then being near the horizon, but in this instance being nearly overhead, we had nothing to refract the Rays of light, which in the first case renders the lower extremity of the spout visible.

It is impossible to say what hurt it might have done us, as its progressive motion was very rapid from East to west in the direction of the wind, but I do not apprehend they are in general so destructive as is supposed. Sails or Masts may be lost by them, yet I imagine the ship will in most cases be safe.

The water that was thrown round in the vortex was very similar to what may be frequently seen on a Turnpike road in a summer’s day, when there is much dust, acted on by violent gust of wind.

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Rems. Fridy. 10th April 1789

Open Cloudy Wr.

In studg. sails & 2 Reefs Fore T.S.

Light airs & Cloudy with lightning. Taken aback.

Fresh Breeze & Cloudy.

Fish seen. Out reefs & set studg. sail.

Killed a Hog weighg. 289 lbs.

Taken aback & heavy Rain. In small sails.

Fresh Breezes & Cloudy. Empld. workg. up Tunk & served Plantains & fresh Pork to the People. Carpenter repairing the Boats.

Observations.
At 20h. 43’ Latd. 18° 16’ S.
Longd. T.K. = 201 14 E.

Current by T.K. 2 miles West.

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Rems. Saturdy. 11 April 1789

Fresh Gales and cloudy wr. with very severe squalls. Clewed up all sails. Dble. Reefed the Top Sails. Much Rain.

Dark Gloomy wr made sail.

Rain at times.

Very severe squalls. Took in all sails. Much Lightning.

Made Sail.

Heavy Rain. Wore Ship. At 5 saw a small Island S.b.W.N.W. about 5 leags. off. Wore & stood close hauled for the Land. Wr. Fair.

Took [indecipherable] for Longd. by T.K. A round Hill the highest part of the Isl. bore S. 21° W. dir. off measd. 10½ Mls.

At 10 saw several low Islds. or Keys further to the southwd. & eastd. At 10h. 41’ North End of [indecipherable] Isld. true West.
At 11 41 Sd. End of Id. true West.

Open Cloudy wr. The extremts. of the Isld. first seen N. 87° W. The easternmost Key S. 79° W. 2 leagues and the southernmost Key S. 69° W. 2½ leagues. Could count 9 small Islds. or Keys from the masthead besides the Principal Isld.

Observations.
At 19h. 46’ Latd. 18° 42’ S.
Longd. T.K. = 200 23 E.
Varie [indecipherable]
A Compass – 8° 46’ E.
[indecipherable] turned 7 58
Mean – 8 21 E.

Current by T.K. East 5 miles.

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Rems.

I had little reason to expect making any New Discovery, as my Tract altho’ not traversed by anyone before, yet was bordering so near on others, that I scarce thought it probable to meet with any land. At daylight however we discovered an Isld. of a moderate height with a round conical Hill towards its northern extreme. The N.W. part made in a perpendicular head, but the S.E. slop’d off to a point. As I advanced towards it, a number of small Keys were seen from the Masthead lying to the S.E., and at Noon could count nine of them. They were all covered with Trees and the large Island, was had a most fruitfull appearance. The shore was bordered by flat land with innumerable cocoanutts & other Trees, and the higher grounds were beautifully interspersed with Lawns. I could not get near the shore on account of the wind, nevertheless there appeared broken water between all the Keys, & I am inclined to think they are all joined by a Reef. I saw no smoke or any sign of Inhabitants, it is scarcely to be imagined however, that so charming a little spot is without them.

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Rems. Sundy. 12th April 1789

Light Winds & Cloudy. At 36 past Noon South Key bore true West.

Tkd. round Hill N. 51° W. 6 leags.

Tkjd. extremts. of the Land N. 41° W. to N. 58° W. Round Hill N. 43° W. 5 leagues off the nearest shore.

Much Lightning.

Wore ship. Very squally wr. [indecipherable]. All Sails.

Calm & much Lightning.

The Large Isld. W.N.W. Dark Gloomy wr.

Light Winds & Rain. Round Hill N.S.W.b.W. 6 leagues.

Punished Mr. Sumner with 12 lashes for neglect of duty.

Fresh breezes & open cloudy wr.

Do. wr. The extremts. of the Land from N. 59°. W. to N. 40°. W. Round Hill N. 42° W. off the nearest Key 2 leagues. Cocoanut Key N. 65° W. Under single reefs & sml. Sails.

Observations.
Round Hill N. 57° W.
At 4h. 4’ Latd. 19° 3’ S.
Longd. T.K. = 200 29 E.
Vari 6 Azths.
A Compass = 8° 55’ E.
Do. turned 9 21
Mean 9 8 E.

No observs.

Current by T.K. East 21° S. dir. 9 miles.

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Rems.

I became more anxious this afternoon to determine the limits of this land than I had before considered it worthy of my attention, for I found it highly dangerous to any ships that night come this way both from the low Keys lying to the S.S.E. of the Main Isld. and a Reef which I saw extending considerably to the West, with a small Key on it, which was conspicuous to us from a few small Cocoanutt Trees, whose tops only appeared above the Horizon. I therefore determined keeping the land to the N.W. during the night & to wait the event of another day, which without any predetermination the Wind & Weather would have made me do the same thing. It was Noon before I drew in with the Islands again, when I had all but the Westermost Key early under the extent of the large Island, so that the extremes were the westermt. Key & eastermost part of the great Isld., which as the bearings express, only extended 19 Degrees. A prodigious surf broke on every part within our view.

By my protracted bearings I find my course & distance since yesterday Noon to be S.S.W. 5½ miles which gives 2 miles in Longd. The difference T.Keeper gives one mile, & the D.R. 8 miles. This trifling difference is therefore more likely to be the error in calculation than any current.

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Rems. Mondy. 13th April 1789

Mod. breezes & Cloudy wr. A very Heavy surf breaking on every part of the shore.
Saw Inhabitants on the Keys.
At 3 a canoe with four People in her came on board.
At 4h.1/2 the West point of the large Isld. N. 24° W. westermt. Key N. 40° W. Round Hill N. 15° S. South Key North 3 miles.

The Body of the Land N.b.W.

Light winds & Cloudy.

Body of the Land N. ½ E.

Fair wr. Whytootackee [indecipherable] 7 leagues. Saw some Fish.

Fair wr. Served fresh Pork & Plantains as usual. Exercised Small Arms. Cleaned below. Carpenters repairing the Boats.
Fifty fms. of the B.B. Cable being very bad & I ordered it to be given to the Boatswain for Tunk.

Fair wr. Under all Sails.

Observations.
At 4h. 30’ Latd. 19° 00’ S.
Longd. T.K. = 200 19½ E.
Varia. [indecipherable] Azths.
A Compass 7° 18’ E.
Do. turned 7 12
Mean = 7 15 E.

At 19h. 33’ Latd. 19° 09’ S.
Longd. T.K. = 199 48 E.

Current by T.K. S.W. dir. 7 miles.

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Rems.

As I drew nearer towards the southermost Key I discovered from aloft that there were a number of Natives within the Reef, but as the sea broke dreadfully round them I imagined none were capable of getting through it to come out to us, let their inclination have been ever so strong. I was however agreeable surprised by a visit from four men in a single Canoe. They paddled strait for the ship without making a single stop untill they were alongside, when without any kind of fear or astonishment, after receiving a few beads from me, they came into the ship. One man seemed to have some assendency over the others, and him only had the curiosity to look a little about the ship, but none of them would go below. My People had just been to Dinner & had left some of their fresh Pork in a Bowl which was given to them on being asked for, & they eat it voraciously with some boiled plantains.

Two of the men had each a large Mother of Pearl shell hung at each of their breasts, pendent from the Neck by plaited human Hair. On being told I was the Erree, the principal person immediately came over and joined Noses with me, & presented me his shell & tyed it round my Neck, and now being perfectly reconciled to their situation, they seated themselves, & I had time to endeavor to make enquiries, which as their language was in some degree like Otaheite, I got this information.

They called the Island Whytootackee and the Erree Comackkaiah. They said they had no Hogs, Dogs or Goats upon the Isld., neither had they Yams or Tarro; but Plantains, Vees, Fowls & Breadfruit they said were in great abundance, & also Cocoanutts. As all that I have mentioned was in their view, there

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could be no mistake between us. I had also a Pumpkin hanging up, & they immediately called it Oomarra, which is the Ulietea name for it, but the Otaheiteans called it Enoah.

Notwithstanding they said there were no Hogs, Yams or Tarro, they called them by name, and I am rather inclined to believe they were imposing upon me; I nevertheless thought it my duty, as I could do it conveniently, to supply them with those articles, and I therefore ordered a fine young Boar & sow into their Cannoe, with some Yams & Tarro. I also gave each of them a Knife & a fine Toey, some Nails & Beads and also a looking Glass, the latter they handled & examined as a Monkey would do, but Nails & Toeys they were acquainted with & call’d them aouree which is the common name for Iron.

When I had given my present to the different men, they were preparing to leave us, and the Chief took of the Cannoe took possession of every thing I had given to the others. One of them only, showed any signs of dissatisfaction, they however joined Noses, together and were reconciled. As the evening was coming on I became desirous for them to leave the ship, but to my astonishment two out of the four were to remain on board for the night, and the others were to come for them in the morning. I would have treated their confidence with the utmost gratitude and regard, but it was impossible to say how far it would be in my power to land them in the morning without subjecting myself to accidents and delay, & as to the punctuallity of their friends coming for them, it was by no means absolutely certain; I therefore desired them to go into the Cannoe, which they did reluctantly & left us. They were also solicitous for some of us to go on shore with them.

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These People are just the same as those of Herveys Isles, in their appearance at first sight; but they are certainly more docile and inoffensive. They were fishermen who had been upon the Reefs, their complexion therefore being very dark, and their persons being meagre, made them perhaps not a true sample of their countrymen. They had naturally strong black Hair which they wore loose about the neck, but from either the extreme heat of the sun & the salt water, (like all fishermen) great part of it was turned of a brown or reddish colour. The Chief of the Cannoe was tatowed on the Thighs & the legs, the others with four small strokes across the upper arms something like a Spear, the others had the same strokes across the hollow of the Knee, but neither were marked on the posteriors as the Otaheiteans. The wore a marro like most other Islanders & had besides some cloth & matt like those of the friendly Islands which was wrapt round their middle. They had one spear in the Cannoe wch. they gave me – it was a common Pole, pointed with the hard Toa Wood. Not a single article besides had they in their Cannoe, not even a cocoanutt or a gourd of water. The Cannoe was made of one piece of Timber with the common outrigger. The stern had a small elevation, and round the Gunwale long poles were lashed to strengthen the upper part of the Cannoe. The head was no way remarkable, or were their Paddles materially different from most others.

I could not discover if they had any knowledge of Herveys Islands, but I think there is little doubt of it, as from them only could they have got a knowledge of Iron. The distance between those Islands is 54 miles in the direction S. 67° E. & N. 67° W.

Should this Island be without such essential articles as I have already mentioned, it would be of little

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avail for any ship to stop at it, but I am rather doubtful of the information I received, and as they Natives are disposed to trade and will be more so, a ship may coming this way may make it worth her while to stop a day or two with them under the west side of the Isld. Could anchorage be found it would be one of the most desirable little spots in the South Sea, but within the Keys it appear’d is all shoal water & without not fathomable.

This Island which the Natives call Whytootackee is about 10 miles in circuit its north part lies in lat. 18° 50’ S. & its south end is 18° 54’ S. Eight small Isld. or Keys lie off to the S.S.E. of it and one to the W.S.W. The Southermost lies from a round Hill on the north part of the Isld. S. 30° E. by compass 7 miles, and is in latd. 18° 58’ S. The Isld. itself is not above 2½ miles from east to west, but the the Reef & Keys to the southward of it extends 8 miles. Every Key was covered with Trees among which as well as on the large Island were many that from their peculiar branches I supposed to be the Toa. The Beaches were brilliantly white.

The longitude of the Hill on the North part of the Isld. is by the Time Keeper 200° 19’ E. and by my account 199° 48’ E. and the variation of the Compass may be considered to be 8° 14’ E.

The language of these Islanders altho at first in conversation did not appear to be like the Society Islands, yet many of their words may be said to be identically the same, & in any respect not differ more from the Otaheiteans, than [indecipherable] Ulietea or Huheine people do. I shall therefore conclude my remarks on this place with the few words of their language I was able to collect. After the Natives were gone I heard that some of my Johns had engaged them to bring women off

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Whytootackee, Otaheite

Oroo – Ooroo – Breadfruit
Aauree eetee – Ima eetee – I don’t know
Vee – Vee – A fine apple
Tatalow – Tatow – To puncture the skin wth. marks.
Maicah – Maiyah – Maiden Plantain
Ah – Ay – Yes
Oomarra – Oomarra or Enoah – Pumpkins or Potatoes
Arreeah – Arreeah – Stay a little
Evvaah – Eevaah – A Cannoe
Pyee or Pyie – Pyhee – A ship or large Cannoe
Hughee – Hughee – Yams
Boah – Boah – Hogs
Toa or Toah – Toa – A Tree (very hard wood)
Tarro – Tarro – Eddie or Coccos
Arraove – Arraove – To take away
Evy, yo – Evy yo – Let it remain – or stay where you are
Matta po – Matta po – Blind
Ma Myty – Ma Myty – Good food
Tawa – Tawa – No
Ennoo – Aree or Addee – Cocoanutt
Yootah – Yootah – The shore
Aauree Boah te yootah – Ima, or, aoree Boah te Yootah – No Hogs on shore
Whyeine mytety te yootah – Huheine mytety te yootah – There are fine women on shore.
Te yootah te medooah – Te yootah te medooah – or medooah nona te yootah – His Parents are on Shore.
Erracow – Everro – A spear

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in the morning, it was therefore the reason perhaps that two of them designed to sleep on board.

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Rems. Tuesdy. 14th April 1789

Modr. and fair Wr.

Empld. getting the Boats & their sails in order.

In 1st reefs.

Fine Wr. out Reefs. Set Fore Top Mast studg. Sail.

Served fresh Pork & plantains.
Employed cleaning below & exercising at Small Arms.

Fine Wr. Swell from the southwd. Saw some Fish & some Sheerwaters.

Under all sails.

Observations.
At 3h. 41’ Lat. [indecipherable] 16’ S.
Longd. 7.7h. = 199 4 E.
Varie [indecipherable] Azths
A Compass 7° 44’ E.
Do. turned 6.20
Mean = 7 2 E.

At 19° 43’ Latd. 19° 08’ S.
Longd. T.K. = 197 43 E.
Varia [indecipherable] Azths
A Compass 6° 46’ E.
Do. turned 6 37
Mean 6 42 E.

Current by T.K. N.30° E. dir. 6 miles.

[Page 34]

Rems. Wednesdy. 15th April 1789

Fine Wr.

Employed this day in cleaning & repairing Hammock. Working up junk & Exercising at Small Arms.

In 1st Reefs.

Out Reefs

Set F.T.M. Studgs.

Saw 2 Men of War Birds & 2 Tropic Birds

Fine Wr.
Sick List 2 Venereals & one of them ill with the flux. One Invalid groin pains from a fall off Cape Horn.

Observations.
At 4 h. 33’ Latd. 19° 06’ S.
Longd. T.K. = 197 4 E.
Varia [indecipherable] Azths
A Compass 7° 24’ E.
Do. turned 8.09
Mean – 7 46 E.

At 19h. 56’ Latd. 19° 12’ S.
Longd. T.K. 19h. 37° 52’ E.
Longd. [indecipherable] Sun East.
Ramsdens B = 195° 41’ 33" E.
Troughton – 195 59 33
Mean = 195 50 33 E.
T.K. – Obs. = 12 41 W.

Current by T.Keeper, South 30° W. dir. 7 miles.

[Page 35]

Rems. Thursdy. 16th April 1789

Fine Wr.

Employed this day cleaning & repairing Hammocks. Workg. up junk and Exercising at Small Arms.

In studg. Sls. & 1st Reefs.

Fair Wr. Hauled the Fore Sail up.

A few Squalls of small Rain.

Set the Fore Sail.

Fair Wr. out reefs. A Tropic Bird seen. Set Studg. Sls.

Fair Wr. and hazy. The Plants continue in a fine state.

Observations.
At 4h. 38’ Latd. = 19° 13’ W.
Longd. T.K. = 194° 45’ E.

At 19h. 17’ Latd. 19° 5½’ S.
Longd. T.K. = 193 22 13 E.
Longd. [indecipherable] to same time.
[indecipherable] B – 193° 26’ 55"
[indecipherable] – 193 41 04
193 33 59
T.K. – Obs. = 11 46
Varia [indecipherable] Azths.
A Compass – 8° 10’ E.
Do. turned – 8 54
Mean = 8 32 E.

Current by T.Keeper N.E. 4 miles.

[Page 36]

Rems. on Fridy. 17 April 1789

Fair Wr. and hazy.

Employed mending Hammocks. Cleaning below and Exercising at Small Arms.

In 1st Reefs & steering sails.

Light Squalls of Rain.

Fair Wr.
Out Reefs & set studg. Sls.

Fine Wr.
Served fresh Pork, Plantains & Tarro to the People.
A brown Booby and several Tropic Birds seen.

Do. Wr. Sick List one Venereal, one recoverg. from a flux & an Invalid from a fall off Cape Horn.

Observations.
At 4h. 10’ Latd. – 19° 5’ S.
Longd. T.K. = 192 43 E.
Varia [indecipherable] Azths
A Compass – 8°. 31’ E.
Do. turned – 7 49
Mean = 8 10 E.

At 20 h. 8’ Latd. 19° 11’ S.
Longd. T.K. = 191° 31’ 07 E.
Varia pr. Azths
A Compass - 7° 28’ E.
Do. turned – 8 32
Mean – 8 00 E.
[indecipherable] reduced to same time by
Ramsdens B = 191° 32’ 13" E.
Troughton = 191 44 55
Mean = 191 38 34 E.

T.K. – Obs. = 7’ 27" W.

Current by T. Keeper
S. 62E. dist. 2½ miles.

[Page 37]

Rems.

My discovering the Island Whytootackee made me lay aside an inclination I had of seeing Palmerstons Islands, as by that means I should follow more directly a new track towards Savage Island, which I intend to make from no other motive than to compare the situation I may find it in with that established by Capt. Cook, with which I agreed in our Voyage in 1777, making it to lie in 19° 1’ S. latd. & 190° 23’ E. of Greenwich.

My Lunar observations prove no material errors in the Time Keeper, I therefore take it as exact, from whence Savage Isld. being only 47 miles from me at Noon, I hope to make it before night ensuing.

The Booby I saw this morning is always a sign of land being not a great way off.

I have been obliged to lay aside the use of one of my sextants that I have hitherto constantly made observations with under the name of Ramsden’s C, owing to the screw of the Index being unaccountably lost. One of my compasses also under the name B was also rendered useless by being stolen by the Indians, and return’d broke.

The Plants continue to thrive finely. They take about a half Hhd pr day to water them, which is done every evening.

[Page 38]

Rems. Saturdy. 18th April 1789

Fine Wr.

Employed this day repairing Hammocks, cleaning below, getting the Boats furniture in order and Exercising at Small Arms.

At Sun Set saw Savage Island W. ½ N. from the Top Gallt. Mast Head (i.e.) 5°. 45’.

In 1st reefs & Studg. Sls.

At 11h. 20’ the Center of the Isld. bore N. ¾ W. 3 leagues offshore.

Out Reefs.

Fair Wr. & hazy. Served fresh Pork & Plantains to all hands. This is the last of our Plantains.

Fair Wr. & pleasant Trade. Several Tropic Birds & Man of War Birds seen. Some Flying fish and others.

Observations.
At 4h. 38’ Latd. 19° 09’ S.
Longd. T.K. = 190 50 E.
Varia [indecipherable] Azths.
1 Set
A Compass – 8° 09’ E.
[indecipherable] turned – 7 24
2 Set – 7 45 E.
A Compass – 7 32
Do. turned 7 19
Mean = 7 25 E.

Latd. in at this time allowg. for the error in latd. at Noon is 17° 16’ S. – 9’ = to 19° 07’ – 5’ = 19° 02’ S. the Center of the Island.

At 19h. 52’ Latd. 19° 35’ S.
Longd. T.K. = 189 37 06 E.
Longd. [indecipherable] East [indecipherab le]
Ramsdn. B = 189° 42’ 57" E.

Current by T.Keeper S. 12 Miles.

[Page 39]

Remarks

Just at Sunset we discovered Savage Island from the Top Gallt. Masthead which was as I expected from the situation I was in at Noon by my observations & Time Keeper.

As I thought it not worth my while to lay by for it untill the morning I steered to the southward of the Island the center of which at 11h. 20’ bore true North, from whence I fix its lat. to be 19° 02’ and Longd. 190° 18’ by T.K. and 190°. 29’ E. by observ.

This is the 2nd time I have seen this Isld. but each time has been in the night, it cannot therefore be supposed I can say any thing of its appearance. It however has always shewn itself remarkably flat, and it is evident we have only seen it at first 10 leagues distant from the Top Gallt. Masthead, altho the weather remarkably fine amp; clear. When I was abreast of it, altho not more than 3 leags. off, it was not (comparitively speaking) five feet above the Horizon. The observations I have been able to make reduced to this day at 19h. 52’ are as follows.

Time When 1789 – Longd. by T. Keeper – Longd. Observ. – [indecipherable] to be applied – Longd. at 19h. 52’ on the 18th inst.

April 15th – 195° 37’ 52" – 195° 41’ 33" - -6° 00’ 46" = 189 40 47
 - - 195 59 33 – 189 58 47
16th – 193 22 13 – 193 26 55 - -3 45 07 – 189 41 48
 - - 193 41 54 - - 189 55 57
17th – 191 31 7 – 191 32 13 - -1 54 01 – 189 38 12
 - - 191 44 55 - - 189 50 54
18th – 189 37 6 – 189 42 57 - - 189 42 57

Mean longd. from all the Observations 189 47 3
Longd. by T. Keeper 189 37 6
T. Keeper less than observation = -9 57 [indecipherable]

[Page 40]

Rems. Sundy. 19th April 1789

Fair Wr.
Many Tropic Birds about & Fish. Caught a fish which was called a King fish, but it was very dry and poor eating.
In 1st Reefs.
Fresh Gales and fair Wr.
The Islds. to the Eastward of Anamoka [possibly Nomuka group of Islands] & reefs I consider to lie in latd. 20° 23 S. 185° 30’ East, Anamoka in latd. 20° 16’ S. 185° 11’ E. as I determined it by observations in 1777.
A little squally.
Served fresh Pork & Tarro. Fair wr. Mustered all hands to their stations & saw them clean & I afterwards exercised them at manoeuvring the ship.
Dark Gloomy Wr. just after Obs. Handd. M. Sail & Dble Reef the Topsails.

Observations

At 4h. 54’ Latd. 19° 49’ S.
Longd. T.K. = 180° 57½ E.
At 20h. 3’ Latd. 20° 31’ S.
Longd. T.K. = 107° 32½ E.
Current by T. Keeper S. 39° dist. 14 Miles.

[Page 41]

Rems. Mondy. 20th April 1789

Very Squally with Rain. A few Tropic Birds & Sheerwaters seen.
Out 2nd Reef topsails.
Very squally took in topsls. occasly.
Mod. & Cloudy.
Tkd.
Hard Squalls in Topsls. occasionly.
Squalls – Calms & Heavy Rain.
Mod. out all reefs.
Served fresh Pork & Tarro. Cleaned below, & got all wet things to dry.
Mod. squally wth. Rain. In 1st Reefs. Got sight of the sun just at Noon.

Observations

At 4h. 38’ Latd. 20° 35’ S.
Longd. T.K. = 187 3 E.
At 20h. 18’ Latd. 20° 25’ S.
Longd. T.K. = 186 55 E.

Current by T. Keeper N. 68° E. dist. 8 miles.

[Page 42]

Rems. Tuesdy. 21st April 1789

Very squally and dark gloomy wr. wth. constant Rain. In 2d. Reefs.
Cloudy with a fresh gale.
Tkd.
Fair Wr. wore ship.
Cloudy.
Out 2d. Refs
Out 1st Reefs. Fair Wr. Served fresh Pork & Tarro to all Hands. Bent the Bn. Bn. Cable. Cleaned below & dryed all wet things.
The Isld. Caow [possibly Kao] N. 64° W.
Fair Wr. & Cloudy. Caow N. 61° W.
19½ leagues by my map. Saw the Islds. to the Eastd. of Happai [possibly Ha’api] from the Fore yard to the W.N.W. Tkd. about 6 leagues.

Observations

At 21 h. 34’ Latd. 20° 15’ S.
Longd. T.K. = 186 03 E.
Current by T. Keeper N. 63° W. dist. 22 Miles.

[Page 43]

Rems.

The night being windy and weather very unsettled I tacked at 8 o’clock and again at 12 as I determined to make the low Keys of the friendly Islands to the Eastd. of Anamoka and at day break made all possible sail towards them.

At 11 the Hands from the Masthead discovered the land which I found to be the Isld. Caow the Northwesternmost of all the Friendly Islands. It is one high mountain with a sharp pointed top, and was now to be seen very distinctly from the Deck of a good height above the Horizon altho at the distance of at least 19 leags. as my latd. & bearings prove to me by my chart survey of these Islands.

Unexpectedly I found myself set to the northward altho I had kept to the wind the whole day, and at Noon could not weather the the easternmost Isles. I therefore as the weather did not appear very settled, tacked off shore.

I could not see Tofoa distinctly altho it lies very near to Caow, or the Easternmost Islds. of Annamoka.

The longd. by my map, at Noon, which is a survey of these Islands that I made in 1777 is, 185° 47’ E.

[Page 44]

Rems. Wednesdy. 22 April 1789

Fair Wr. and cloudy.
Tkd.
Tkd. the south of the three eastern Isles which form the passage to Anamoca S. 50° W. 3 leags. and Caow N. 53° W., north of the 3 Isles W. 8° S.
Tkd.
Tkd.
Tkd. the southernmt. Isld. as set before S. 75° W. 2 leags. Caow N. 45° W.
Served fresh Pork & Tarro and cleaned below.
Tkd.
Tkd. Southermt. Isle N. 75° W. Caow
N. 43° W. North Isle N. 29° W. off the southernmost 4 or 5 Miles.

Observations

At 4h. 31’ Latd. 20° 18’ S.
Longd. by T.K. = 185 53 E.
At 20 h. 35’ Latd. 20° 25’ S.
Longd. by T.K. = 185° 37’ E.

[Page 45]

Rems.

At Dusk in the evening I fetched in with the easternmost Isles that form the passage into Anamoca, and spent the remaining part of the day plying to windward in the course of which I only gained 10 miles.

I would have lookd. for a passage to Anamoka between these Isles, and the Happy, had I been certain of the wind remaining so long in the south, but failing in such an attempt and the regular Trade wind had came on upon me, it would have render our situation hazardous. As this knowledge therefore can only with propriety be gained by exploring it from the westward, it is a circumstance that must rest with some future navigator.

These Islands are low & covered with wood connected by Coral reefs on which the sea breaks tremendously high.

[Page 46]

Rems. Thursdy. 23 April 1789

Mod. and open cloudy wr.
Tkd.
The southermost of the 3 Eastermost Isle N. 76° W. & Caow N. 47° W.
Tkd. Dark and gloomy in the S.E. Caow on wth. the Southt. Isle N. 40° W. abt. 4 leags. N. Isld. N.N.W. ¼ W.
Taken aback with light airs and cloudy wr.
Fair wr. Made sail.
Caow N. 42° W.
At 8 h. 8’ Tellafeegiea N. 83° W. to Namai N. 76½° W. Southd. of Eastd. Isles N. 10° W. 4 leagues.
Light Winds & fair Wr. Mango N. 27° W. Anamoka Isle N. 53° W. Tonami W. 47° W. Caow N. 32° W. southd. of Eastd. Isles N. 47 E.

[Page 47]

[Blank page]

[Page 48]

Rems. in Anamooka Road, Friday 24th April 1789

Light winds and cloudy Wr., Wind E.S.E. & E.N.E. Sick list one Venereal and an Invalid from a fall. Ther. 78° to 80°.

At 2 o’clock this afternoon in standing to the westward we suddenly saw the bottom on which we had only at one time 4 fms. By direction from the lookout aloft we hauled to the northward & deepen’d in 2 Minutes to no ground at 20 fms. The Bearings on the shoalest part were Tonamai S. 36° W. 2 leags., Mango N. 24½ W., Somost of the Eastermost Isles N. 71° E.

At 3 h. 44’ I took altds. for the Longd. by T. Keeper when the west end of Anamooka bore N. 19° E. & Anamooka Eetee from N. 34° E. to N. 56¾° E. dist. 4 miles.

I kept steering as near as the wind would allow me past the west end of Anamooka, giving a birth of two miles to Anamooka Eetee & a small Key to the westward of it called Three Tree Isld., from having three Cocoanutt Trees on it, & is exactly the same as I saw it 1777. During this time several Cannoes came off to us from Mango & Tonamai with a few Cocoanutts & Yams, and without any hesitation came on board and bartered with every degree of honesty. I made many enquiries after our old Friends but I found myself so unacquainted with the language that I got not information to be relyed on. A Chief of Mango (a) Ratoomylangee came on board & dined with me, from whom I thought I understood that Paulehow, Feenow & Tubow were alive and at Tongataboo.

I found it only necessary to make one tack before I got into as good anchoring ground on the North side of

[Page 49]

Anamooka as I could expect, the Night however had closed upon me, and as I could not place the Ship with any certainty to convenience respecting my future proceedings, I anchored for the Night in 23 fm. The extrems. of Anamooka from E. b N. to S. ½ E. & veered a half Cable offshore 1½ or 2 Miles.

By this time about 20 Cannoes had collected about us of whom I knew nothing of, & sold us some yams. No one attempted to come on board but with leave, & that as I did not care to have the Ship crowded happened only to a few.

When I anchored, the Tide or Current run to the Eastward, and at the rate of ½ Mile per hour per Lge., it was however stronger & was obliged to shoot the Ship as in a strong tide’s way.

The Tide or Stream shifted at 11 o’clock & run to the Westd. and set in a contrary that direction untill in the Morning, when it resumed its former course at ½ past 6 & run to the Eastward.

I now found my situation not sufficiently convenient, I therefore weighed & worked into a proper birth & anchored at ½ past 10 in 25½ fms. The East part of the Road N. 86° E. & West Point S. 37¼° W. and the Westermost Sandy Bay S. 65° E. 2 Miles. Many Cannoes were now off to us, & several large sailing ones, besides some others in sight coming from the different Islands having seen us come in.

I now took Altds. for the Longd. by T. Keeper which gave.

It was sometime before I found any person to take particular notice of when an old lame Man called who Tepa, who I knew in 1777 came on board, and we had

[Page 50]

a friendly meeting. He enquired after Capt. Cook, Clerk & Mr. Gore (in that time first Lieut.) and several others. He also confirmed to me the account that Paulehow & Feenow where at Tongataboo, but that they would be here as soon as they heard of my arrival. I now enquired after the Cattle that were left here and had the agreeable news that they were all at Tongataboo and had bred. I could not however get for a certainty to what number; what several accounts agreed in however was, that there were five of young ones of each kind, and that all the old ones were living, such information is therefore not satisfactory; it may nevertheless serve to satisfy us that they have been taken care of. Two other Chiefs called Newcaboo, and Tunocappo, were along with Tepa, and being desirous to see the Ship I took them below & also showed them the Bread fruit Plants which created some surprise in them. They called them Mai. The Vees they called Avvee, the Ayya, Faigeeza & the Ehee or Chesnut, Langakalee, from whence we found tho not known before, that these three last kind of fruit where among these Islands.

We had not long anchored when the Bower Buoy was seen to be sinking, & for want of a little exertions in Mr. Elphinston the Mate in getting into a Boat to get hold of it, it went down. I therefore ordered the anchor to be hove up again & to place a better buoy on it, in the meantime I left the Ship & went on

[Page 51]

shore with these Chiefs to regulate my watering & wooding.

When I landed I found but few people, not more than two or three hundred, many of whom were women and children. I was accompanied by Mr. Nelson, and we were conducted to a large Boat House which Tepa told me I might take for my habitation, as he conceived I should have a party on shore as our ships formerly had. I now went in search of the water, but could find no better place than were Capt. Cook watered, which lies a quarter of a Mile inland from the East end of the Beach. I therefore fixed on it & returned. I now went to the west end of the Bay where our old trading post was, with a view to see if any plants or seeds remained that had been sown there, and we found about twenty five Pine Apple plants in a Plantation close by, but no fruit, being not the season. They described to us however that they had eat many of them, & were very fine and large, & that great numbers were at Tongataboo.

We saw some Breadfruit Plants of which Mr. Nelson intends to take a few, having one out of our stock dead & two or three a little sickly.

Being now desired to sit down I received a present of a few bundles of cocoanutts only, altho I had given a valuable present to these Chiefs before I left the ship, and now distributed Beads & Trinkets to the Children & women about us.

Numerous were the marks of mourning

[Page 52]

among these people – Bloody Temples – their heads deprived of most of the hair, but what was still worse, almost every one with the loss of some of their fingers. Several fine Boys about 6 years old had lost both their little fingers, and many men both these, and the middle finger of the right hand.

We met frequently both Men & Women with dreadfull sores on their Legs, Arms & Breasts, & even young infants were not exempt from them. The Infants were remarkably fair, but they were not such pretty engaging children as at Otaheite. In the circle appeared a woman who had just been delivered of a Child, and as the custom is had all her skin stained yellow as well as her infant. This is a very extraordinary custom & has a very disagreeable appearance.

I now returned to the Ship with the Chiefs to dinner, and as I had opened Trade for Yams, they Natives began to bring them off with a few Plantains & Breadfruit but no Hogs. I therefore considered the Isld. poor with respect to the latter. Several large Cannoes were now seen coming from different quarters, & some were alongside. Yams were the principal article they had, except curiosities; and that things might go properly on, I as usual directed Mr. Peckover to manage the trading business, & forbad any others to purchase any thing, but to let every thing go

[Page 53]

through his hands.

As nothing could be done either in wooding or watering this day, the necessary preparations were only made for the morning.

[Page 54]

Rems. in Anamooka Road, Saturday 25th April 1789

Very light Winds and very cloudy with some spitting rain. Wind at East & E.N.E.

The ship was again secured and I ordered a stream anchor to steady her to the westward, so that we became moor’d with a half Cable on the Sml. ;Br. and a whole hawser on the sml. anchor to the westward. The sml. Br. in 21 fms. & the stream in 17 fms. The West point of the Road bore S. 33° W., the East point N. 85° E. and the west or watering Bay S. 73° E. about 1½ Miles. Caow N. 29° W. & Tofoa N. 40° W. to N. 34° W.

Examined our anchoring ground and found it a coarse coral bottom but even soundings & from this I considered I had got a good Birth.

At Night I regulated our business in watering and wooding, and in the morning the Parties were sent off.

At 11 h. 45’ the Tide came from the Eastward, and about 6 in the morng. the ship tended to the stream from the westward, and at 11 h. 45’ it came again from ye Eastd.

The morning produced a Fleet of Sailing Cannoes besides many others, but I got only eight Hogs in the course of this day – few Breadfruit, Cocoanutts or Plantains, the Yams were however in great abundance some of which weighed about 45 pounds, and were in general proportionally large.

We received 2 launch load of water by Noon the weather very dark & cloudy & threatg. much dirt.

Some Dogs, Birds & Fowls were brought off for sale & great numbers of Shaddocks.

[Page 55]

In the afternoon I went in search of a wooding place, accompanied by Tepa, Tubow of Lefooga, & Mr. Nelson, and with the consent of the Chiefs I fixed on a small cove where the boat might take off her loading at any time of tide, about a Cable’s length to the westward of the Watering Bay, close to the sea side and convenient to the ship. We found several sorts of good sizeable Trees, but the kind I pitched on to be principally cutt down, was of the Barringtonia of Foster, [Forster] as Mr. Nelson informed me. In May 1777 when I was here with Capt. Cook, several of the seamen got blinded by cutting the Manchineel, I therefore took a branch of it on board to prevent the party that were to come on shore in the morning from meeting with the same accident. This is the real Manchineel as grows in the West Indies from the appearance and quality of the Tree; but Mr. Nelson assured me from a botanical knowledge of it that it is the same Plant. I therefore see with much surprise a contrary account given of it in C. Cook’s last Voyage (Vol. 1st, Page 230) calling it a species of Pepper.

I now agreed with Tepa that my people should be on shore at dawn of day, and it meeting his approbation we parted.

At Day break I sent the Parties away. Those a Watering under the command of Mr. Christian consisting of 11 Men, and the Wooders under the direction of

[Page 56]

Mr. Elphinton, Mate of the Ship, consisting of four Men. To the former Waterers I ordered Arms, but to be kept in the Boat & there only to be used, considering them much safer on shore without them, unless I could have encreased the Party, and to the Wooders I gave none.

To these people I not only gave my orders, but my advice, that they were to keep themselves unconnected with the Natives; they however had not been an hour on shore before one man had lost his Ax & the other an Adz. The cause of this was, that the Officers had contrary to my direct orders, suffered the Indians to crowd around them & amuse them, and by that means the theft was committed. The men cleared themselves of the neglect as they could not comply with every part of their duty & keep their Tools in their hands, and they therefore merited no punishment. As to the Officers I have no resource, or do I ever feel myself safe in the few instances I trust to them.

Tepa was applyed to & the Ax was return’d but the Adz not.

These Islanders are a clever dexterous set of People, & would ever take advantages if they saw people negligent, even before the Centinels when the Revolution was here, if they ever caught them inattentive they took whatever they could lay hold of. We are therefore not to be surprised at those petty violences as our Iron utensils are Jewels of inestimable value to them.

[Page 57]

At Noon numbers of large sailing Cannoes were drawn near to us, & several alongside. These Cannoes are really a wonderfull piece of art and contrivance, sail with great swiftness, & managed with much with great cleverness. Some will sail either end foremast and by carrying the tack of the sail when they put about, to the stern that was before; but the large Cannoes sail on one board, with the sail to windward of the Mast & the other to leward, but in these the halliards are bent much nearer to the tack of the sail than the others, the Mast much shorter, & therefore of little or no detriment. The sail is of the latteen kind made of Matts, and is spread by two tremendous poles or rather pieces scaffed together, the lower ends meeting towards the tack, which is secured to the Bow or Stern of the Cannoe by a large Rope. To the lower Boom or Pole is single large rope for a Sheet. They have a pair of shrouds on each side, & they have have either a score or hole through the Mast head through which they have brails to haul the sail up, but it seems to require great strength to manage it and I have always seen them well supplied with Men.

What we call the Cannoe, is formed of two joined together by strong cross pieces. On this is raised a kind of gunwale taking in one half of the whole length, the one quarter being the extremity forward, & the other abaft, both which is close & admits no water. On

[Page 58]

the Gunwales is errected a stupenduous Stage or Platform strongly secured by lashings, and on this a Hutt or place of Shelter, or sometimes a Magazine for their Provisions and valuable articles. This Hut is secured by strong uprights, & even on the top of it, bears a great weight, being made convenient as a seat for numerous passengers. When every thing is collected, & this extraordinary vessel proceeds to sea, the two Cannoes, the great bulwark of its support, is scarce above the water. All provisions & every other article is stowed on the Platform or in the Hutt, so that by this means the vessels are more buoyant and their wells always clear for bailing, which is constantly the business of some one, & from which I observed that their hold, if I may call it so, was as deep as a tall man’s shoulders. Some cross pieces of timber were fixed on the inside in different directions to strengthen the whole frame. They are steered by two long Paddles steadied only by a single Rope through a hole in the blade, & they are managed also by smaller ones in a calm as other Cannoes are, using besides, in the middle of the ends of the Platform through holes, paddles with narrow blades as sculls – that is, as we make a boat go forward with a single oar over the stern.

In these vessels go whole families and a numerous attendance, and I have counted 90 passengers

[Page 59]

on board some of those that have already come to see us.

Some of them have very large outriggers, & on those when the [they] carry much sail fifteen or twenty Men will be to windward.

The common sailing Cannoes are on the same principal, but their sail is slung more by the middle of the yard & is lower’d down occasionally.

These People are very neat & secure in all the trappings they make use of, & they are peculiarly clever in sewing their Cannoes together on the inside, so that on the out, let the vessel be made of ever so many pieces, nothing is made appears but a very narrow seam. The blade of their Paddles is the exact form of the ace of spades.

I sollicited Tepa to send to Paulehow & Feenow & he said they should, but we have seen no Cannoe go away, I therefore fear I shall not see them and I believe their company is not desired, as the present parties wish to have the trade to themselves for a few days.

My acquaintance was now encreased by another Tubow of Happy, so that I had two on board of that name, a family of rank in these Islands.

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Rems. in Anamooka Road, Sunday 26th April 1789.

Light Winds and Cloudy, clearing at times which gave me opportunities to make observations for the Time Keeper & Varia, which proved the former to have kept very good time. Wind N.E. to E.S.E.

p.m., completed wooding & a.m. watering. I sent Mr. Fryer with the watering Party & Mr. Nelson went to get a few Plants. No very principal Chief being here these Gentlemen both met with losses by the rabble, one lost the Grapnel & the other a spade and met with some insults. Tepa was applied to & the spade was returned but the Grapnel remained. As here were a number of Cannoes from different Islands the crowd of Natives became very great, it was therefore impossible to do any thing among such a throng without any a principal Chief who could command the whole which was not at present the case. I therefore determined to sail as I could not discover that any person had sent off to Paulehow or Feenow. When the theft was first committed the Chiefs kept away but soon after returned on board. We had great supplies of the finest Yams. Hogs, Cocoanutts, Breadfruit & Plantains were thinly brought to sale, but that I attribute to our desire for the Yams. At Noon I gave directions to unmoor & finding no chance of the Grapnel being returned, I secretly determined to confine the two Tubows, Qunocappo & what others might be on board, after I got under way, untill the Grapnel should be returned if it was in the Island. Served fresh Pork & two pounds of Yams to each Man.

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Rems. in Anamooka Road, Mondy. 27th April 1789.

Light Winds Easterly and Cloudy Wr.

At 1 p.m. unmoored & got under way. Many Cannoes about us. I now told the Two Tubows, Latoomylangee, Qunocappo & another old Chief, that I should keep them on board untill the Grapnel was returned – vastly surprised Cannoes were sent away for it, but they notwithstanding assured me it could not be brought to right for it was not on Anamooka but some other Isld. I however detained them untill sun Down, when they began to be very uneasy, beat themselves about their Eyes with their fists & at last cried bitterly. I now told them I should not detain them any longer & called their Cannoes alongside to take them in at which they were exceedingly rejoiced, and when I presented each of them with a present of a Hatchet, a saw & several large Toeys, Nails, Knives & Gimlets, they fell into a degree of crying & showed the such gratitude & thanks for my goodness that it affected all of us. I told them all English People were their friends & that thieving from them was what they always resented. They acknowledged it and embracing me with a flood of Tears we parted. For the night I steered to the Northward and at Noon we were between Tofoa & Agoodo, Latd. obsd. 19&dep; 5’ S.

As I did not complete this day’s work in course, it is not so particular as it would have been on account of the unhappy circumstance that follows.

Served fresh Pork & Yams as yesterday.

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Rems. Tuesdy. at Sea 28 April 1789.

Light Winds and cloudy Wr. Wind N.E., E. & E.S.E.

I kept near the Ogodoo untill 5 o’clock this afternoon in hopes to have had some Cannoes off but I saw none. I therefore directed my course to the West & went to the Southward of Tofoa. Mr. Fryer the Master had the first watch, Mr. Pickover the Gunner the Middle, and Mr. Christian one of the Mates who I had given an acting order to, the Morning watch. This was the tour of duty for the night. But I am now unhappily to relate one of the most atrocious acts of Piracy ever committed.

Just before Sunrise Mr. Christian & the Master at Arms & [indecipherable] others (a) came into my cabin while I was fast asleep, and seizing me tyed my hands with a cord & threatned instant death if I made the least noise; I however called sufficiently loud to alarm the officers, who found themselves equally secured by Centinels at their Doors. There were now three men at my Cabbin Door & four inside (a). Mr. Christian had a cutlass & the others were armed with musquets & Bayonets. I was now carried on Deck in my Shirt, in torture with a severe bandage round my wrists behind my back, where I found no man to rescue to me. I ask’d the reason for such a violent act, but I was threatned to be put to death if I said a word. Mr. Hayward & Hallet were in Mr. Christian’s watch, but had no idea that any thing was doing untill they were allarmed. The Arms were all secured, so that no one could get near them for Centinels. Mr. Elphinston the Mate was secured in his Hammock. Mr. Nelson &

[Note in margin]
(a) Fletcher Christian – (a) Chas. Churchill, (a) Thos Burkitt – (a) Jno. Mills – Alexander Smith, Jno. Sumner – Mathew Quintal – Assisted under Arms on the outside.

[Page 63]

Peckover in their Cabbins. The Fore Hatchway guarded by Centinels through which the Boatswain and Carpenter were admitted on Deck when they saw me standing abaft the Mizen Mast with my hands tyed behind my back, under a Guard with Christian at their head. The Boatswain was now ordered to hoist the small cutter out, with a threat if he did not do it instantly to take care of himself; but on a representation that this boat was very leaky he was directed to hoist the Launch out which was done. Mr. Hayward and Hallet Midshipmen and Mr. Samuels Clerk were now ordered into the Boat, upon which I assumed my authority & demanded the cause of such an order, endeavouring to bring someone to a sense of his duty, but it was to no effect. “Hold your tongue Sir or you are dead this instant" was constantly repeated to me.

The Master by this time had sent to be allowed to come on deck and was permitted, and as soon was ordered back to his Cabbin again, where he returned.

I continued to endeavor to change the tide of affairs, when Christian changed the Cutlass he had in his hand for a Bayonet that was brought to him, and holding me with a strong grip by the cord that tied my hands, he continued to threaten me with instant death if I did not be quiet. The Villains round me had their pieces cocked & Bayonets fixed, and particular People were now called on to go into the Boat, and were hurried over the side, and with those people I concluded of course I was to be set adrift, I therefore in making another effort to bring about a change expressed myself loudly in such a a manner as to be saluted with “blow his Brains out".

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The Boatswain and Seamen who were to go in the Boat set to work and collected canvas, twine, lines, sails and cordage and an eight and twenty Gallon Cask of Water with four empty Beakers and the Carpenter got his Tool Chest. Mr Samuels got abt. 150 lbs of Bread with a small quantity of Rum and Wine and was allowed to take a Quadrant and Compass into the Boat, but forbad on pain of death of touching any Map whatever, Ephemerise [Ephemeris] Book of Astronomical observations Sextants or Time Keeper, or any of my drawings or Surveys. The Mutineers were now hurrying every one into the Boat, and the most of them being in, Christian directed a dram to be served to each of his Crew. I was now exceedingly fatigued and unhappily saw I could do nothing to effect the recovery of the Ship - every endeavor was threatened with death, and the following People were now in the Boat:

John Fryer - - Master
Thos. Ledward – Surgeon
David Nelson – Botanist
Wm Peckover – Gunner
Wm Cole – Boatswain
Wm Purcell – Carpenter
Wm Elphinston -- Masts Mate
Thos Hayward – Mid.
Jno Hallet – Mid.
Jno Norton -- Qur Master
Peter Linkletter -- Qur Master
Lawrence Lebogue -- Sail Maker
Jno Smith – Ab
Thos Hale – Ab
Geo. Simpson -- Qur Master's Mate
Rob Tinkler – Ab
Rob Lamb – Ab
Mr Samuels -- Clerk

[Page 65]

There remained on board as Pirates and under Arms –

Fletcher Christian - Mate & acting Lieutenant
George Stewart - acting Masr Mate
Peter Haywood - 2nd Mid
Edward Young - 2nd Mid
Charles Churchill - Ship's Corporl
Jno Mills - Gunner's Mate
Jas Morrisson - Boatn Mate
Thos Burkitt – Ab
Math. Quintal – Ab
Jno Sumner – Ab
Jno Millward – Ab
Wm McKoy – Ab
Heny Hillbrandt - Ab & Cooper
Wm Muspratt - Ab & Taylor
Alex Smith – Ab
Jno Williams – Ab
Thos. Ellison – Ab
Isaac Martin – Ab
Richd Skinner - Ab & Mastr Sevrt Ship's Barber
Mathew Thompson – Ab
Wm Brown Botanist assistant
Michl Byrn - Ab Fidler Boat Keeper & worthy of mercy

22 besides these were kept contrary to their inclinations
Josh Coleman – Armourer
Chas Norman - Carp. Mate
Thos McIntosh – Carp. Mate, Crew

In all 25 Hands

This is briefly the statement of the Case. The officers were called & forced into the Boat while I was under a Guard abaft the Mizen Mast, Christian holding me by the bandage that secured my hands with one hand, & a Bayonet in his other. The Men under arms around me had their pieces

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cocked, which so enraged me against those ungratefull Wretches that I dared them to fire and they uncocked them.

Isaac Martin one of the Guard I saw I had brought to a sense of his duty, and as he fed me with Shaddock, (my lips being so parched in endeavoring to bring about a change in my situation), we explained to each other by our Eyes reciprocally our wishes. This was however observed, & Martin was instantly removed from me whose inclination then was to leave the Ship, but for a threat of instant death if he did not return out of the Boat.

The Armourer Joseph Coleman & two Carpenters McIntosh & Norman were kept contrary to their inclination, and they begged of me (in a flood of tears) to remember, before every one that they had no hand in this transaction. Michl Byrne the Fidler who is half blind I am told had no knowledge of what was done and wanted to leave the Ship. These unfortunate Men therefore are deserving of Mercy.

It is of no moment for me to recount my endeavors to rally & bring to a sense of their duty the offenders - all I could do was by speaking to every one in general, for no one was suffered to come near me. I did my duty as far as it was possible to save the Ship, and they knew me too well to put much in my power and therefore bound me very securely, whilst every one else except the Master, Doctor, Botanist, Gunner

[Page 67]

and Mr Samuels my clerk who were confined to their Cabbins, were at liberty. To the latter who got leave to quit his Cabbin I am indebted for securing my Journals, my commission and some material ship papers, also my uniforms and some cloaths without the former I had nothing to certify what I had done, and my honor and character would have been in the power of calumny, without a proper document to have defended it. All This was done with great resolution being guarded & strictly watched. He attempted to save the Time Keeper and my Maps & Drawings (b) for 15 years past which were numerous when he was hurried away with "damn your Eyes you are well off to get what you have".- (a)

The Masters Cabbin was opposite to mine. He saw them in my Cabbin for our eyes met each other through his Door Window, and he had a pair of Ships Pistols loaded and Ammunition in his Cabbin. A firm resolution might have made a good use of them. These Pistols I had ordered for the use of the Officer of the Watch since the (c) 24th Jany and they were at first kept in the Binnacle, but upon consideration that there they might be stolen from thence, they were ever after kept in the Masters Cabbin. After he had sent twice or thrice to Christian to be allowed to come on deck, he was at last permitted, and his question to Christian then was, will you let me remain in the Ship? "No" - have you any objections Captn Bligh? I whispered to him knock him down Martin is good, for this was just before Martin

[Notes in margin]
(a) I was frequently saluted with, "blow his brains out", there was not one however who had resolution to do it.
(b) Among which were my original surveys of West Coast of America and the Sandwich & Friendly Islands done when with Capt. Cook others for 15 Years past.
(c) Publick orders issued this day. See over Book

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that was removed from me. Christian however pulled me back, and the Master went away with orders to go again to his Cabbin & I saw no more of him untill he was put into the Boat. He afterwards told me, in my questioning him, he could find no body to act with - that by staying on the Ship he hoped to have had it in his power to have retaken her; and that as to the Pistols he was so flurried & surprised that he did not recollect he had them. His Brother said, on my enquiring how the Keys of the Arm Chest came out of his Cabbin, that the (a) person who attended on him had taken them away, which was certainly the case - (a) Richard Skinner.

As for the officers whose cabbins were in the Cockpit, there was no relief for them. They endeavored to come to my assistance, but were not allowed to put their heads about the Hatchway.

The Boatswain & Carpenter were fully at liberty. The former was employed on pain of Death to hoist the boats out, but the latter I saw acting the part of an Idler with an impudent and ill looking countenance which led me to believe he was one of the Mutineers, untill he was among the rest ordered to leave the Ship for it appeared to me to be a doubt with Christian at first, whether he should detain the Carpenter or his Mates, but knowing the former to be a troublesome fellow he determined on the latter. He

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was therefore ordered into the Boat upon which he got his Tool chest with little difficulty over the side.

Much altercation took place among the mutinous crew during this whole transaction - some swore "I'll be damned if he does not get home if he gets any thing with him" - others when the Carpenters Chest was going carrying away, "Damn my Eyes he will have a Vessel built within a month," whilst others laughed at the situation of the Boat, being very deep & not room for those who where in her. As for Christian he seemed to be plodding instant distraction on himself & everyone, for of all diabolical looking men he exceeded every possible description.

I asked for arms, but they laughed at me & said I was well acquainted where I was going and therefore did not want them. Four Cutlasses were however thrown into the Boat after being veered a stern.

When the officers and Men were put into the Boat, (with whom I was suffered to have no communication) they only then waited for me, and the Master at Arms, or rather Ships Corporal informed Christian of it, who then told me - "Come Captain Bligh your officers and Men are now in the Boat and you must go also: If you attempt to make the least resistance you will instantly be put to death" and forcing me before him, holding by the Cord that grapped my hands behind my back & a Bayonet in his other, with a tribe of armed Ruffians about me I was forced over the side where they untied my

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hands, and being in the Boat was veered a stern by a Rope. A few pieces of Pork was now thrown into us, and some old cloaths, and after having undergone a great deal of ridicule, we were at last cast a drift in the open ocean. Having little or no wind we rowed pretty fast towards Tofoa, & while the ship was in sight she steered to the W.N.W. but I considered that as a blind to me, for when we came away, Huzza for Otaheite was frequently heard among the Mutineers.

Christian the Capt of the Mutineers is of a respectable family in the North of England, & from my connection with a part of them I had taken this Young Man to bring him forward in life, at least to qualify him for an Officer. This was the third Voyage he had made with me, and as I found it necessary to keep my ships company at three watches, I gave him an order to keep the third his abilities being thoroughly equal to the Task, & by this means my Master & Gunner were not at watch & watch.

Hayward is also of a respectable family in the North of England and a Young Man of abilities as well as Christian, and is connected with a most respectable officer in our service Capt Thos Paisley. This young man was recommended to me by my Father who had been sollicited by his Friends to induce me to take him, and therefore being very infirm & the chance that

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he could not live to see me again on my return, asked it as the last favor he could might ever receive from me. These two became therefore objects of my attention, and with much unwearied Zeal I instructed them for I considered them very worthy of every good I could render to them, and they really promised as professional Men to be an honor to their Country.

Young - was a person recommended to me by Sir George Young & a relation of his - he appeared to be an able & stout Seaman & therefore I took him he however always proved a worthless wretch.

Stewart was a young Man of creditable parents in the Orkney Islands and connected with Captain Graham in the service. He was a seaman and bore a good Character. This person became recommended to me by the generous conduct and behaviour of the people of Orkney when we returned with the Resolution & Discovery the last Voyage of Captain Cook in the Resolu year 1780.

Here we may observe to what a height the baseness of human nature may arrive at, not only ingratitude in its blackest dye, but eternal criminality against their country and connections.

I had scarce got a furlong on our way when I began to reflect on the vissitude of human affairs; but in the midst of all I felt an inward happyness and peculiar pleasure which prevented any depression of my Spirits, conscious of my own integrity and anxious solicitude for the good of the service I was on. I found my mind most wonderfully supported and began

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to conceive hopes notwithstanding so heavy a calamity, to be able to account to my King and Country for my misfortune.

What Man's situation could be so peculiarly flattering as mine twelve hours before. I had a Ship in the most perfect order and well stored with every necessary both for service and health - by early attention to those particulars I had acted acted against the power of chance in case I could not get through Endeavor Streights, as well as against any accident that might befall me in them; and to add to this I had most successfully got my plants in a most flourishing and fine order, so that upon the whole the Voyage was two thirds completed and the remaining part no way doubtfull. Every person was in the most perfect health, to establish which I had taken the greatest pains and bore a most anxious care through the whole course of my Voyage.

It is certainly true that no effect could take place without a cause; but here it is equally certain that no cause could justify such an effect. It however may very naturally be asked what could be the reason for such a revolt, in answer to which I can only conjecture that they have ideally assured themselves of a more happy life among the Otaheitians than they could possibly have in England, which joined to some female connections, has most likely been the leading cause of the whole busyness.

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The Women are handsome - mild in their manners and conversation possessed of great sensibility, and have every sufficient delicacy to make them admired and beloved. The Chiefs have acquired such a liking to our people, that they rather have encouraged their stay among them than otherwise, and even made promises of large possessions. Under these and many other attendant circumstances equally desirable, it is therefore now not to be wondered at (tho' not possible to be forseen) that a set of sailors, led by officers, and void of connections, or if they have any, not possessed of natural feelings sufficient to wish themselves never to be separated from them; should be led by such powerfull inducements. But equal to this, what a temptation it is to such wretches when they find it in their power, (however illegally it can be got at) to fix themselves in the midst of Plenty on the finest Island in the World where they need not labour; and where the allurements of dissipation are more than equal to any thing that can be conceived.

Desertions have happened more or less from the Ships that have been at the Society Isles, but it has ever been in the Commander's power to make the Chiefs return their people. They therefore knew such a plan could never succeed, and perhaps suggested that never so small a Ship, and so elligible

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an opportunity would offer them again.

It now remained with me what was best to be done; and I determined that after getting a supply of Breadfruit & Water at Tofoa to sail for Amsterdam and there risk a sollicitation to Paulehow the King to equip my Boat & grant a supply of water & provisions so as to enable me to return home.

The secrecy of this mutiny is beyond all conception & surprising it is that out of thirteen of the party who came with me & lived always forward among the People & the Messmates of Christian, Stewart, Hayward & Young, could not discover some symptoms of bad intentions among them. This Mutiny or design against the Ship has however been long planned if I may with propriety take the Cutting of the Cable as a beginning in the 6th of Feby, for that act was certainly done by some of these people to strand the Ship, altho at that time I naturally thought it was done by the Indians, but who it now appears were certainly innocent. With such deep laid plans of Villany & my mind free of any suspicions it is not wonderful that I have been got the better of; but had I had one judicious officer, which most likely would have been the case if the establishment would have allowed a Lieutenant, it perhaps would never have happened. Even if I had had manned a Centinel at my Cabbin door might have prevented it, for I slept with it allways open for the officer of the Watch to have access to me on all occasions. But the possibility of such a

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Catastrophe was ever the farthest from my thoughts. Christian was to have dined with me and supped the preceding Evening, but he desired to be excused as he found himself unwell, about which I was concerned rather than suspecting his integrity & honor.

The exact quantity of Provisions I found they had got in the Boat was 150 lbs Bread, 16 pieces of Pork - 6 Quarts of Rum, 6 Bottles of Wine with 28 Galls of Water and four Empty Breakers.

When we left the ship Tofoa bore N.E. about 10 leagues.

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[Blank page]

[Page 77]

Rems. Wednesday April 29th 1789.

Happily the afternoon kept Calm untill about four o’clock when we were so far to windward that with a moderate easterly breeze which sprung up we were able to sail, it was nevertheless dark when we got under the lee of Tofoa where we expected to land, but the shore proved to be so steep and Rocky that I was obliged to give up all thoughts of it, & keep the Boat under the land by two bars for there was no anchorage. Having fixed on this mode of proceeding for the night I served every person two Jills of Grog and each took his rest in proportion as they reflected on their unhappy situation.

In the morning at dawn of day we set off along shore in search of landing, and about 10 o’clock we discovered a Stoney Cove at the N.W. part of the Island were I dropt the Grapnel within 20 yards of the Rocks. A great deal of surf run on the shore, but as I determined to encrease our original stock rather than diminish it I sent out Mr. Samuels & Geo. Simpson who climbed the Cliffs in order to get into the Country to search for supplies. The rest of us remained at the Cove after having found discovering no way to get into the country, but that by which Mr. Samuels & Simpson had proceeded. I became happy to find the spirits & life of my people were raised and that our miserable situation may be forever known to the world I made an observation of the latd. which determined this Cove to lie in 19° 41’ S. on the N.W. side of Tofoa. The whole coast we have seen is one entire precipice. Mr. Samuels returned, found some few quarts of water in holes & signs of the Natives. Dined on a morsel of Bread & one Glass of Wine, each.

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Rems. Thursdy. April 30th 1789.

Fair Wr. but the wind blew so violently from the E.S.E. that I could not venture to sea. Our detention therefore made it absolutely necessary to see what we could do more for our support, for I determined to keep my first stock entire. I therefore weighed & rowed along shore to see what was to be got and at last discovered some Coconutt Trees, but they were on the top of high Precipice and the surf made it dangerous landing; both one & the other we however got the better of, some with difficulty & risk climb’d the precipice and got a few Cocoanutts about 20 and the others slung them to ropes in the surf by which we got them into the Boat. This was all could be got here, and as I found no place so elligible as the one we left to spend the night I returned to the Cove & having served a Cocoanutt to each person we went to rest again in the Boat.

At dawn of day I attempted to get to sea but the Wind and weather proved so bad that I was glad to resume my former station and after issuing a morsel of bread and a spoonfull of rum to each person, we landed, and I went off with Mr. Nelson, Mr. Samuels, John Norton, & some others into the country, having haul’d ourselves up the precipice by long vines which were fixed there by the Natives for that purpose, this being the only way into the Cove.

We found a few deserted Hutts and a small Plantain walk but little taken care of, from which we could only collect three small bunches of Plantains. After passing this place we fell in with a deep Gully that led towards the Mountain near the Vulcano & as we conceived that in the rainy

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season very great torrents of water must pass through it, we hoped to find sufficient for our use remaining in some holes. After searching for some time the whole that could be got were only nine gallons in the course of the day. We were advanced within three miles or less of the foot of the highest land of the Island on which is a Vulcano that is almost constantly burning, the country near it was all covered with lava and had a horrible appearance and as we had not been fortunate in our discoveries & saw but little to alleviate our distresses, we filled our Cocoanutt shells & gourds with what water we could find & returned exceedingly fatigued and faint. When I came to where we were to descend into the Cove, I found the precipice which I had got up with little trouble to give me a difficult task to get down for I was seized with such a dizzyness in my head that I thought it scarce possible for me to effect it. However by the assistance of Mr. Nelson & others they at last got me down in a very weak condition. Being all returned by Noon I gave about an ounce of Pork & two Plantains to each person with about a half glass of Wine and I observed again the latd. of this place to be 19° 41’ So. The people who remained by the Boat I directed to look for Fish or that they could pick up about the rocks, but nothing eatable could be found, so that upon the whole we considered ourselves on as miserable a spot of land as could be found. I could not say positively from what former

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knowledge I had of this Island whether it was inhabited or not, but I knew it was not considered equal to the other of the Friendly Islands, and was not certain but that the Natives only resorted to it at particular times. I was therefore very anxious to discover this point, for in case there were only a few here, & those could give us but very moderate supplies, I thought of making some improvements on my Boat on the spot, rather than risk going among multitudes where perhaps I might lose every thing. A party therefore who found themselves sufficiently strong I determined should go another route as soon as the sun became lower & they chearfully undertook it. At the head of the Cove was a Cave about 150 yds. from the water side & across the stoney Beach it was about 100 yards, with only the one way into the Cove that I have described. The situation was thus far good with respect to being surprised & I determined that I would to remain on shore for the Night with a part of my people that the others might have more room rest to rest in the Boat with the Master, who I gave directions to lay at a grapnel & be watchfull in case we should be attacked. Thus far my determinations at Noon when each of us endeavoured to get a couple of hours sleep.

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Rems. at the Island Tofoa, Fridy. 1st May 1789

Stormy Wr. with Rain in the Night, Wind at E.S.E. & S.E.

About 2 o’clock this afternoon the Party set out in search of Water but after suffering much fatigue they returned in the Evening without any degree of success. I ordered one Plantain for each person to be boiled & having supped on this scanty allowance with a Jill of Grog & fixed the watches for the Night, those whose turn it was laid down to sleep in the Cave before which we kept up a good fire. We were nevertheless troubled with many Flys & Musquitoes.

At dawn of day, the Party set out again on a different route to see what they could get, in the course of which they again suffered greatly for want of water. They however met with two Men, a Woman & a child, the Men came with them to the Cove & brought two Cocoa Nutt shells of water. I immediately made friends with these people & sent them away for Breadfruit, Plantains & water. Soon after other Natives came to us, and by Noon I had 30 of them about me trading with a few Breadfruit, Plantains & a few Cocoa Nutt shells of water which relieved us from hunger & thirst, but I could only afford 1 oz. of Pork & a quarter of a Breadfruit pr. Man & a couple of Jills of Water for dinner as I was fixed in not using any Bread or Water out of the Boat. No particular chief was yet among us, the Natives were notwithstanding

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tractable & behaved honestly giving their articles for a few buttons & beads. The Party who had bee out informed me of having discovered several neat Plantations, so that it became no longer a doubt of there being fixed inhabitants here, & I therefore determined to get what I could, & sail the first moment the wind and weather would allow me to put to sea.

Saturday 2nd May 1789

Stormy Wr., Wind E.S.E.

It had hitherto been a weighty consideration with me how I was to account to the Natives for my being here without my ship. I knew they had too much good sense than to be amused with a story that the ship was to join me, when they all knew from the Hills that she was not in sight; it therefore rested whether I was to tell the real fact, or that the ship had overset & sunk and that only us were saved. The latter appeared to me the most proper and advantageous to us, & I accordingly told every one that we were all to agree in one story. As I expected, enquiries were made after the ship and they seemed readily satisfied with our account, but there did not appear the least mark of joy or sorrow in their faces, altho I fancyed I discovered some marks sign of surprise.

Some or other was coming or going the whole afternoon & we got enough Breadfruit & Plantains & [indecipherable] for tomorrow, but water they only brought us about 5 Pints.

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A Cannoe also came in with four Men & brought a few Breadfruit, those I bought for buttons & beads. Nails were much enquired after but I would not suffer one to be shown as I wanted them for the use of the Boat. Towards Evening I saw with peculiar pleasure that we had encreased our stock of provisions, and that at sun down all the Natives left us in quiet possession of the Cove. I thought this a good sign and made no doubt but that in the morning they would come again with a larger proportion of food & water with which I hoped to sail without any further delay, & that then, in case in my attempt to get to Amsterdam I should be blown away from the Islands altogether I should have a larger quantity of provisions to support me against so heavy a calamity.

At Night I served ¼ of a Breadfruit and a Cocoa Nutt to each person for Supper & having made a good fire all those but the watch went to sleep.

At day break I was happy to find everyones spirits a little revived, & I saw not those anxious looks towards me for what was best to be done, as they have been since we left the ship, but every countenance appeared to have a degree of chearfullness and manfully looked forward to do their best. As I now only doubted of water being brought to me, a Party set off among the Gullies in the mountains with empty shells to see what they could get, & in their absence the Natives came about us as I expected, and more numerous: also two Cannoes came in from round the north side of the Isld. in one of wch. was an old elderly Chief called

[Page 84]

Macca ackavow. Soon after a good looking Chief came down with some of our party that were out foraging who they called, Eegyeefow or perhaps more properly Eefow Egy or Eghee signifying a Chief. To both these Men I made a present of shirts & knives and they either knew or had heard of my being at Anamoka. They also knew I had been with Captn. Cook who they enquired after, and also Captn. Clerk. How I had lost my ship was a particular enquiry, during which a young man appeared who I remembered to have been at Anamoka called Nageetee and took share in the conversation expressing much pleasure at seeing me. I now enquired after Paulehow & Feenow who they told me were at Amsterdam, and Eefow agreed to accompany me there if I would wait untill the weather moderated. The readyness and affability of this man gave me a high opinion of him. The Natives still continued to encrease about us when I observed some symptoms that began to alarm me & presently after they attempted to haul the Boat on shore. I therefore flew to Eefow with a Cutlass in my hand when he with the other Chief called out to leave off & everything became quite again. The party who had been out returned with about 3 Galls. of water & I kept buying up every thing that was brought to us and some spears as Weapons as I had only four Cutlasses, 2 of wch. were in the Boat. As our situation could be no worse, I told everyone I would wait untill sun down, that by that time perhaps something might turn in our favor & they might be induced to leave us as they had done before, that if all attempted to go at present

[Page 85]

we must fight our way through which we could do more advantageously at night, & that in the meantime we would endeavour to get off to the Boat what we had bought. The Beach was now lined with the Natives & we heard nothing but the knocking of stones together which they had in each hand which I knew very well would be the method of attack. It being now Noon I served a Cocoa Nutt & Breadfruit to each person for dinner and gave some to the Chiefs who I continued friendly & intimate with. They were always anxious for me to set down but I refused for it occured both to Mr. Nelson & myself that by that means they wanted to seize hold of me, my keeping therefore always upon my Guard & those about me we eat our miserable dinner with some quietness.

Sunday 3rd May 1789

Fresh Gales at S.E. & E.S.E. varyi8ng to N.E. in the latter part and a storm of Wind.

After dinner we began by little & little to get our things into the Boat which became troublesome on account of the surf, and I carefully watched the motions of the Natives who I found still increasing upon us, & that instead of their intention being to leave us, fires were made & places fixed on for their residence during the Night. Consultations were also held among them & everything assured me we should be attacked, and I sent the Master orders to be sure to keep the boat well in upon the Beach when he saw us coming down, that those who we might easily get in. In the morning I had this

[Page 86]

Log on shore in the Cave to write up the occurrences & in sending it down it was nearly taken away, but by the timely assistance of the Gunner it was saved.

Every person who was on shore with me now boldly took their proportion of things & carried them to the Boat, when the Chiefs asked me if I would not stay with them all night, I said no, I never sleep out of my Boat, but in the morning we will again trade with you, & I shall remain untill the weather is moderate that we may go as we have agreed, to see Paulehow at Tongataboo. Macca ackavow now got up & said you will not sleep on shore; then Mattee, (which directly implies we will kill you) & I saw no more of him. The onset war now preparing, everyone as I described before kept knocking two stones together, & Eefow left me. We had now all but two or three things in the Boat, when I took Nageetee by the hand, & we all walked down the beach every one in a silent kind of horror. When we came down Nageetee wanted me to stay a little to speak to Eefow; but I found he was encouraging them to the attack, in which case if it had then happened I determined to kill him (a). He therefore finding I would not listen to him quitted my hold & went away, & we all except one man got into the Boat, who while I was getting in, observing the stern fast not cast off, quitted the Boat’s side, ran up the beach to effect it; notwithstanding I heard the Master & others calling him to return while they were hauling me out of the water. I was no sooner into the Boat than the attack begun by about 200 of them. This unfortunate poor man was first knocked down & the stones flew like a shower

[In margin]
(a) I ordered the Carpenr. not to quit me untill the others were in the Boat.

[Page 87]

[In margin]
(a) the [indecipherable] on board was foul & would not clear out.

of shot. Many men got hold of the stern fast & were near hauling us on shore, (a) & would certainly have done it if I had not had a knife in my pocket to cut, we therefore hauled off to our Grapnel with every one more or less hurt. In the course of this I saw five of the Natives about the poor Man they had killed struggling who should get his Trowsers, & two of them were beating him about the head with stones in their hands. We had not time to think, before, to my surprise they filled their cannoes with stones and twelve men came off after us to renew the action, which they did so effectually as nearly to disable all of us. Our Grapnel was foul, but Providence here assisted us, as the fluke broke & we got to our oars & pulled to sea, they however could paddle round us, so that we were obliged to sustain the attack without being able to return it but with such stones as lodged in the Boat, & in this I found we were but children to them. It followed of course that we could not close with them because our Boat was lumbered and heavy. I therefore adopted the expedient to throw over some cloaths which beguiled them & they lost time in picking up, and by this means with the Night coming on they at last quitted us to reflect on our unhappy situation. The poor Man I lost was called John Norton, this was his second voyage with me as a Quarter Master and his worthy character made me feel his loss very severely. He has left an aged parent I am told who he supported.

I once before in my time sustained an attack of this nature with a small number of men against a multitude of Indians after the death of Captain Cook

[Page 88]

on the Morai at Owhyee where I was left by Mr. King to act on the defensive, as he wonderfully expresses it, yet notwithstanding I did not conceive that the power of a Man’s arm could throw stones from 2 to 7 lbs. weight with such force & exactness as these people did – here unhappily I was without arms and the Indians soon discovered it; but what a fortunate circumstance it was they did not begin the attack on us in Cave, in this case nothing could have saved us & we had nothing left but to dye as bravely as we could in which fighting close together in which I found every one chearfully to join me. It was from the appearance of such a resolution that awed them, supposing they could effect their purpose without risk after we got into the Boat.

Taking this as a sample of their natural dispositions, there were little hopes to expect much where I was going, for I considered their good behaviour hitherto owing to a dread of fire arms, which now knowing us to have none would not be the case, and that supposing our lives were safe, our Boat, compass & Quadrant would be all taken from me and thereby I should not be able to return to my King & Country to give an account of the Transaction. While my mind was thus anxiously employed to consider what was best to be done, as we were sailing along the south west side of the Island, I was solicited by all hands to take

[Page 89]

them towards home, and when I told them that no hopes of relief for us remained but what I might find at New Holland untill I came to Timor, a distance of full 1200 leagues, where was a Governor, but that I had no idea of the part of the Island the Settlement was. They all agreed to live on ounce of Bread per day and one Jill of Water. I therefore after examining what our real stock of provisions was, and recommending this as a sacred promise forever to their memory, I bore away across a sea where the Navigation is dangerous and but little known, and in a small Boat 23 feet long from stem to stern, deep loaded with 18 souls, without a single Map, & nothing but my own recollection and general knowledge of the situation of Places (a) to guide me, in which particular I was happy to see every one better satisfied than myself – our stock of provisions consisted of 150 lbs. Bread, 28 Galls. of Water, 20 lbs. of Pork, 3 Bottles of Wine & 5 Quarts of Rum, the difference between which & the quantity we had on leaving the ship was principally owing to loss. A few Cocoa Nutts were in the Boat & Breadfruit but the latter useless.

It was about 8 o’clock at Night when I bore away under a reefed Lug foresail, and having divided into two watches I got the Boat in a little order. We returned God thanks for our miraculous preservation, & fully confident of his gracious support I had a mind more at ease than I had before felt.

At day break the Gale encreased, the sun rose

[In margin]
(a) assisted by an old Book of latd. & longd.
Stock of Provisions

[Page 90]

very firey and red, a sure indication of a gale of wind. At 8h. it blew a mere storm, and the sea run very high, so that in the hollows the sail was becalmed, & when on the top of the sea it was too much to have set; but I was obliged to carry to it for we were now in very emminent danger and distress, the sea curling over the stern of the Boat and which obliged us to bail with all our might, a situation equally horrible perhaps was never experienced. Our Bread was in Bags & getting wet, to be starved to death was therefore inevitable if it could not be prevented. I therefore began to examine what cloathes there were in the Boat & what other things could possibly be spared, & having determined for only two suits to be kept for each person, the rest was thrown overboard, which with some rope and spare sails lightned the Boat considerably, & we had more room to Bail. Fortunately the Carpenter had a good chest in the Boat, I therefore fixed on it to put the Bread in the first favorable moment. His Tool Chest also was cleared & the tools stowed in the Boat’s bottom so that this became a second convenience. I now served a teaspoonfull of Rum to each person (for we were very wet & cold) with a quarter of a Breadfruit which was scarce eatable for dinner, but our engagement was now fully to be carried into execution & I was sacredly determined with my life, to make what provisions I had to last eight weeks, let the daily proportion be ever so small. At Noon I considered

[Page 91]

my distance from Tofoa to be 86 miles W. b. N. ¼ N., my Latitude 19° 27’ So. and Longd. 183° 52’ E. My intention is to steer to the W.N.W. that I may see Fidgee [Fiji] Isld.

Rems. Monday 4th May 1789

This day the weather was very severe, it blew a storm from N.E. to E.S.E. The Sea run higher than yesterday and the fatigue of bailing to keep the boat from filling was exceedingly great. We could do nothing more than keep right before the Sea, in the course of which the Boat performed so wonderfully well that I no longer dreaded any danger in that respect. But among the hardships we were to undergo, that of being constantly wet was not the least. The Nights were very cold & at daylight our limbs so benumbed that we could scarce find the use of them. At this time I served a Teaspoonfull of Rum to each person which everyone agreed did him a great deal of good. As I have mentioned before I determined to keep to the W.N.W. untill I got more to the northward, for I not only expect to have better weather, but to see those Islands called Fidgee as I have understood from the Natives of Anamoka that they lye in that direction; but if I recollect right Capt. Cook considers them to be in the N.W. As I was speaking

[Page 92]

and representing the situation of these Islands as I had been told by the Natives, we discovered a small flat Island of a moderate height. It was now Noon, the Island bearing W.S.W. 4 or 5 leagues. It was with great difficulty I could observe, I however got a good latitude.

Course – N. 72° W.
Distance – 95 miles
Lat. obsd. – 18° 58’ So.
Lat. D.K. – 18 55 So.
Longitude – 182 16 E.

I now divided five small Cocoanutts for our dinners and every one became satisfied with his Portion.

[Page 93]

Rems. Tuesday 5th May 1789

Towards Evening the Gale moderate and became a strong Breeze – the Wind general S.E.

A little after noon saw other Islands and 10 mins. past three could count eight, the Northermost being the largest. The Isle first seen bore South 4 leagues close to which lies a high rock. The next Isld. bore [indecipherable] 5 leags. The next bore S. b. W. 4 leags. The next S.S.W. 5 leags., the next W.S.W. 5 leagues. The next N.W. b. [indecipherable] 6 or 7 leags. and the Northermost and largest Isld. N.W. b. N. about 7 leags. which with the Rocky Islet close to the south or Isld. first seen make 8 in number. I kept my course to the N.W. b. W. determined to pass between the large Isld. and the next to the southward. The large Isld. and the one first seen came in a line at N.N.W. & S.S.E. in which direction they are 10 legs. apart.

At 6 o’clock saw three other Islands to the W. b. N. of the large Island, which (a) then bore N.N.E. about 3 leags. & one to the southward Isld. A bearg. S.S.W. about 2 leagues, and the N. Westermost Isle N.W. ½ W. 7 leags. Off the N.E. part of the largest Island lie two small Keys.

I now fixed on steering W.N.W. for the Night & stood on under a Reefed Fore Sail.

Served a few broken pieces of Breadfruit for supper, and performed prayers.

The Night turned out fair & smooth water and having had tolerable rest, our spirits and strength by the morning seemed vastly better, and contentedly breakfasted on a few pieces of Yams we found in the Boat.

[In margin]
(a) The large Island.

[Page 94]

After breakfast put all the bread into the Chest I had prepared for it, but unhappily a great deal was damaged & rotten, this nevertheless we saved for use. Dryed Cloaths.

At Noon I observed in latitude 18° 10’ S. and considered my course since yesterday Noon N.W. b. W. ¼ W. dist. 94 miles – Longitude 180° 5l’ E.

I have hitherto been only able to keep an imperfect kind of a Log, but have now got ourselves a little better equiped and a line marked, & having practiced at counting 15 seconds every one can do it with some exactness.

The Land I have past is very likely to be a part of those Islands called Fidgee. The [they ?] lye between the latitude of 19° 05’ So. & 18° 19’ S. and between the longitude of 182° 02’ E. and 181° 33’ East. The largest may be about 6 leagues in circuit, but it is impossible for me to be very exact, to show where they are to be found again is doing a great deal in my present situation, the sketch I have made of them will give a better Idea of their situation and extent. I believe the larger Isles are fertile and inhabited.

For dinner I served some of the rotten bread and a Jill of water. Our wants are now beginning to have a dreadfull aspect which nothing but a firm and determined resolution can fight against, a situation peculiarly miserable on a commander.

[Page 95]

[Blank page]

[Page 96]

Rems. Wednesdy. May 7th 1789 in the Bounty’s Launch.

Very Hazey Wr. but fair.
Hauled the wind. Saw two High Islands W. b. S. 6 leags. and N.W. b. W. 8 leagues. A & B.
Fresh Breezes. Steered to windward of the northermost. Served Two Cocoa Nutts for Supper.
Bore up. The Isld. W. b. S. 4 leags. B.
The Isld. set at 10h. S.S.E. 10 leags. B. Saw 5 others, a small one S. b. W. 5 leags. C – a little larger one D S.W. b. S. ½ S. 6 leags., a High mountainous one E S.W. 9 leags., another mid size West 3 leags. F and another G N.E. b. E. 7 or 8 leags. Steered between those two last. Served two Cocoa Nutts for Breakfast. At 7h. I was on a Meridian with the Isl. F that bore West at 6 o’clock, & it now proved to be two Islands, & I hauled in shore to look at it.
At 9h. 35’ I steered for a small Key to the West H. At 10h. ¾ saw another large Isld. in the S.W. 8 leags. I.
Fair Wr. & hazy. The Key H S.E. b. ½ E. 2 miles. The mountainous Isld. E set S.W. at 6h. S. b. E.S.E. 7 leags. The Isles I left at 9 o’clock F E. 5 leags. An Isld. S. ¾ W. 5 leags. K. An extensive Isld. I S.S.W. to W. wch. was seen at 10h. 45’ & discovered another Isld. in the N. b. W. 8 or 9 leags. dist., equally large L. Served half a Jill of Cocoa Nutt Milk & an oz. of the Meat to each Person.

Cape Cumberland – Hebrides N. 78° W. 2h. 9 leags.

[Page 97

Rems.

This is the first day that I have been able to do more than keep an account of the ship run which of itself is laborious and scarce praticable, being constantly wet with the sea breaking over us. I can give no particular descriptions of the lands I have seen but they appear to be considerable and worth further notice. Those I have been near are fruitfull & hilly some very mountainous & none but are of a good height. I dare not land for fear of the Natives, having no arms. We are under spare allowance, a Jill of Cocoa Nutt milk & the Meat of the Nutt about 2 oz. pr. Man this day. We are nevertheless well, but suffer drougth. I wished to have landed this morng. but the Key produced nothing. Many reefs are about & dangerous as some do not show any break. The exploring these Islds. must therefore be done with caution. I have only a Quadrant & Compass with me which with the violent motion of a little Boat & always wet, I am prevented from doing any thing as much as I wish. For the first time today we hooked a Fish, but it got off again which was a sad mortification to such a set of poor distress’d people.

The Islands in the North & S.W. appear to be considerable and my latitude at Noon is nearly the Center of the whole Group. About the small Key which bore S.E. b. S. ½ E. 2 miles is a reef & I believe all the way to the Isles that bear East of it about 4 leags. are shoals.

[Page 98]

Rems. Thursdy. May 7th 1789 In the Bounty’s Launch

Fair Wr. and hazy.
At 5h. ¾ the extremes of the Isld. (set N. b. S. at Noon) N. b W. ½ W. to N.E. ¼ E. Island I on the south extending as far as S.W. b. W. and on the north Island I as far as N.W. ½ W. Could see nothing more.
At 6 passed over a shoal Bank with only four feet water on it with no break. At least 6 leags. from the shore.
Served a Jill of water and an oz. of rotten Bread for supper.
Light Squalls.
At day break discovered more Land M from W.N.W. to W.S.W. 8 leags. distant. A High round Hill Isld. N bore N.N.W. 6 leags., and I could see the land I. I set S.W. b. W. at night, bearg. S.E. to S.S.E. Hazy Wr.
At 9h. ½ I found we were set to the S.W. by a current & could not weather the land in the N.W. I therefore [indecipherable] but the wind varying I got on the northern Tack again. Etres. S.W. b. W ½ W. to N.W. 7 miles off shore.
Served a spoonfull of Rum & a bit of bread for breakfast.
Variable Wr. mostly cloudy. Two small Rocky Islets now made the north extreme of the land which we had to weather, against a lee current setting us on the shore.
Cloudy Wr. with baffling Winds,. We now saw two large sailing Cannoes coming after us along shore within the Islets which now bore W.N.W. 2 miles & the High Round Hill Isld. N.E. b. E. Out oars & rowed to the N.Wn. southermost part of the shore S. b. W.
[Symbol for “fixed point"] Center 56° 24’. Every mile it had to rise made me more to the northward.

Rems.
Latitude at Noon by protracted bearings 16° 29’ So.

[Page 99]

Rems.

The lands both on the north and south appeared to be more extensive than I at first supposed them to be. They are large Islands & if I were to judge of their extent as far as the looming of the land appeared, I should consider them among the most extensive Islds. in this sea. The Parts I could see distinctly were woody and the land in general very high.

As I dared not venture near the shore because I had no fire arms I steered a direct course to sea, but I suddenly got on a shoal Bank of Corral & sand which had only 4 feet on it, without the least break. It extended about 1 mile in circuit that I could distinctly observe. Had I been here in a ship I should certainly have been on it.

We are all in good spirits & at dark took each his Supper of a Jill of Water and an oz. Bread which altho rotten are satisfied with it.

At dawn of day I again discovered land. The Main Body lay in the West, and as I could see that which I had left in the Eveng. it is therefore very probable but it may all join at least that they form very extensive Islands.

This Land now appeared in a variety of forms, some extraordinary high Rocks & the country agreeably interspersed with high & low land & much wood, with some projecting high clifts to the Sea.

An Isld. of considerable height lay about 4 leagues from the Coast & the northermost extreme of the main Isld. had two small rocky Islots laying off it about 2 or 3 miles. Such fine extensive lands I knew must be inhabited, altho I had no evident signs of it. I therefore was anxious to keep from the shore; but a lee current set me on it, & could but just clear the Islots with our oars. Two large sailing cannoes were now coming along shore after us with great swiftness, being in smooth water, we therefore apprehensive that their intentions were to attack us, we rowed with some anxiety knowing we were very weak & no arms.

Being constantly wet it is with the utmost difficulty I can open a Book to write & I am now too sensible that I can do no more than point out were these lands may be found again.

I am certain the sun had to rise after we had the Altd. & of course the [indecipherable] may be good or the mean of both. By protracted bearings the latd. at Noon is 16° 29’ So. wch. I consider to be most exact.

[Page 100]

Rems. Friday 8th May 1789 in the Bounty’s Launch

Cloudy Wr. and light Winds. Under oars & sails the Cannoes in chace.
The Cannoes left off chace
Heavy Rain, Thunder and Lightning. Spread all our Boat Sails to catch water, and filled about 6 Galls. besides quenching our thirst which was a most happy circumstance.
When the Rain was over saved an ounce of Pork & Bread with a Jill of Water for Supper & Dinner.
At 5h. ½ the Rocky Islots bore E. b. S. ½ S. 3 leags. and the extremes of the main Isld. S.E. b. E. ½ E. to S. b. E. 7 or 9 leags.
Cloudy Wr. Served a teaspoon full of Rum with a bit of Bread being very cold & wet.
Squally with Rain.
Fair Wr. after a most uncomfortable night began to dry our Cloaths.
Served a bit of a Bread and a Jill of Cocoanutt for Breakfast.
Saw a Shark, and some Flying Fish but cannot catch any.
Fine pleasant Trade & smooth water. Served a ½ oz. of Pork, 1 oz. of Bread and a Jill of Cocoanutt Milk for dinner. All Hands in tolerable Spirits.

[Page 101]

Rems.

Only one Cannoe gained upon us and which by 3 o’clock was not more than two miles from us, at which time she left off chace. If I may judge from the Sail of the Vessel they are identically the same as at the Friendly Islands, and the nearness of their situation leaves one little room to doubt of their being the same kind of People. Whether these Cannoes had any hostile intentions against us is a matter of doubt, perhaps we might have received great relief from them; but to have known this would have insured instant death to us if their intentions were not friendly. Every person therefore in our defenseless state most likely would have done as we have. When the Cannoe left us there did not appear many hands in her, I therefore suspect we were alarmed without a cause. There appeared to be a Hut on the Cannoe as the Friendly Islanders have.

The Heavy Rain revived our spirits, for besides filling another of our vessels which in all amounts to 34 Galls. of water, every man had the happyness to quench his thirst, for the first time since we have been at sea. But an attendant consequence made us pass the night very ill, for being very wet & no dry things to shift or cover us, we experienced cold and shiverings that I could only act against by a little Rum. The day however producing fair Wr. we got dry in a few hours & perfectly recovered.

We have a fishing Hook always over but are not so fortunate as to catch any thing. A few Cocoanutts we brought with us, assists our poor & miserable meals considerably, however we trust in God a Jill of Water & 2 oz. Bread per day will support us untill I get farther reliefs.

The land have past consists of a Group of 14 or 16 Islds. three of which are considerable (a). The lie between the latitude of 17° 57’ So. & 16° 26’ So. and Longitude 180° 31’ E. and 178° 05’ E.

(a) 30 top 40 leags. of Sea Coast.

[Page 102]

Rems. Saturdy. May 9th 1789 in the Bounty’s Launch

A fine Pleasant Trade and smooth water.
Employed cleaning the Boat & drying Cloaths, and I amused all hands by describing the situation of New Guinea & New Holland & also Timor which I drew on a piece of Paper.
Served a Jill of Water & ½ oz. of Bread for Supper. Sung a Song & went to sleep.
The fine Wr. so far revived us that everyone was wonderfully in high spirits. Made a pair of scales out of two Cocoanutt shells to weigh the bread with & having Pistols balls with us 24 of which weighed 1 lb., I adopted one as the proportion that each person should have at a time.
After a fine nights rest the day succeeded as fine and serene as before.
Served a ½ Jill of Cocoanutt Milk for breakfast and some decayed Bread.
Saw Flying Fish & Tropic Birds.
Empld. drying wet Cloaths.
Fine Wr. Divided four Cocoanutts for our Dinners & eat the remainder of the decayed bread that we could at all put into our mouths. Some pounds were so bad as to be worse than can be conceived.

Cape Deliverance N. 77° W. Dist. 384 leags.

[Page 103]

Rems. Sundy. May 10th In the Bounty’s Launch

Fine Wr. I now got fitted a Pair of shrouds to each Mast, and contrived a canvass weather cloth round the Boat. Also raised the Quarters abt. 9 Inches by help of the seats, and found it of great service.
Served a bit of bread and a jill of water for supper.
Cloudy.
Squally, much Rain, Thunder & Lightg. Caught 20 Galls. of water.
Being very wet & cold & no shelter, served a teaspoonfull of Rum to each man.
Squally & Rain with a high sea, obliged to keep before it wch. is the cause of the course being altered.
Served Bread & water for breakfast at the proportion of 2 oz. of the first & a jill of the last to each person per day, as before mentioned.
Fresh Gales & Cloudy. Most uncomfortably wet & Cold. The sea constantly breaking over us. Cannot keep our course.
Served a morsel of Pork abt. ½ an oz. & Bread & Water for dinner.

Rems.
Cape Cumberland Hebrides N. 77° W. 170 leags.

[Page 104]

Rems. Mondy. May 11th 1789 in the Bounty’s Launch

Fresh Gales and very squally and a high Sea, so that it is seldom we can keep our course which is West. Hands constantly bailing.
It breaking constantly over us makes our situation not only hazardous, but very uncomfortable being constantly wet, with no shelter & the nights very cold.
Bread & water for supper.
Very cold and wet constantly shipping water and bailing. Carefully attending the run of the Seas sometimes steering W.S.W. to make up for our being obliged generally to keep before it to the N.W.
Cold & wet, served a Teaspoonfull of Rum & a morsel of Bread for Breakfast. Limbs crampt.
Hard Gale. Sea running frequently over our stern & our situation highly dangerous.
D. Wr. Sun just shewed itself at Noon. Served a ½ oz. of Pork & bread & water to each person for Dinner. I run many courses from W.S.W. to N.W. but I have only put down the mean of the whole as I cannot be more exact.

[Page 105]

Rems. Tuesdy. May 12th 1789, Bounty’s Launch

Strong Gale & a high breaking sea frequently breaking over us. Hands constantly bailing the water out.
Bread & water for supper.
Much Rain and Cold.
Fresh Gale. Can keep our Course pretty steadily, bearing up to the N.W. only every five or ten minutes when the sea runs remarkably high, which I make up for by steering more to the southward when we can.
Constant Rain & very cold. One man Ill of the Cholick.
Served a teaspoonfull of Rum & a morsel of bread. Our situation now in every respect truly miserable. Limbs very much crampt.
Mode. Breezes and Cloudy Wr. with Rain.
Calm & Cloudy. Most of us complaining of a violent shivering. Served Bread & Water for dinner. No Sun. Saw Fish but cannot catch any. Some Tropic Birds. Our Cloaths will not dry. My intention is to pass to the northward of the Hebrides.

[Page 106]

Rems. Wednesdy. May 13th 1789. Bounty’s Launch

Dark Cloudy Wr. and a very moist air. I recommended it to every one, that between the showers of rain, to pull off their wet cloaths & wring them out of salt water, by which means they would receive a warmth that while wet with rain they could not have, and be more exempt from catching colds & violent Rheumatic complaints.
Saw a Fruit on the water which Mr. Nelson knew to be the Barringtonia of Forster.
Very squally weather constantly shipping water and miserably wet & cold.
Served 1/24 of a lb. of Bread & a jill of water for breakfast.
Saw Men of War Birds and some of the same kind of fruit as seen in the afternoon.
D. Wr. and the sun appearing at times. Served 1/24 of a lb. of Bread & a jill of water for dinner. Allways bailing & very wet. Got a tolerable observation.

Rems.
Cape Cumberland, Hebrides, S. 85° W. 79 leags.

[Page 107]

Rems. Thursdy. May 14th 1789. Bounty’s Launch

Fresh Breezes and Cloudy. This afternoon got our cloaths tolerably dry.
Served 1/24 of lb. Bread & a jill of water for Supper to each person.
Wind freshening and shipping water so that we are all wet again.
Cold & Wet.
Saw Islands from S.W. b. S. 8 leags., O, to N.W. b. W. ¾ W. 6 leagues P. Three remarkable Hills the norhtermost the smallest & made in a sugar loaf peak & is a seperate Island. They bore W. b. S. ¾ S. 7 leags. Q W. b. S. ½ S. 6 leags. Q & the sugar loaf Peak W. ¾ S. 4 or 5 leags., the whole being four Islands.
Served Bread & Water for Breakfast as before.
Open Cloudy Wr. The Sugarloaf Peak & Eastern Isld. P in one at S. ½ E. off the East Isld. 4 leags. The largest Isld. Q S.S.W. ½ W. having the two remarkable Hills on it. Saw a Rocky Key N.W. b. N. 4 leags. and another Isld. R West about 8 leagues. The whole being 6 in number. The Land appeared fertile & woody. Steered for the Westermt. Island. Served 1/24 lb. Bread & a jill of Water for dinner. So. Isld. not in sight.

[Page 108]

Rems. Friday May 15th 1789 – Bounty’s Launch

Fresh Gale and dark gloomy weather.
I was now abreast of the Isld. R that bore West at Noon bearg. S. b. E. a V. a league. Sugarloaf Peak Island S.E. ½ E. & North Rocks N.E. ½ N. abt. 4 or 5 leagues. The largest Island Q S.S.E. and East Island P S.E. b. E. Saw smoke.
A great deal of sea. Constantly wet and bailing. Served 1/24 lb. Bread and a jill of water for supper.
Saw another Island S tolerably high W.N.W. 5 leags. dist.
Fresh Gales & squally with much Rain, but not heavy, so as to be able to collect any.
The Islands S seen at 1 o’clock N.E. 7 leagues. Very wet & cold, sea constantly breaking over us which keeps one person bailing without the least intermition. Served Bread & water for breakfast as before.
The Rain now abated. Gannets, Boobies, Noddies & Men of War Birds. Got a sight of the Sun but apprehend it had more to rise, if so I am more to the northd. as my account shows.
Served 1/24 lbs. of Bread & a jill of Water for Dinner.

[Page 109]

Rems.

I am at present in doubt whether the Islands I have now past is a new discovery, or part of the Hebrides, for I cannot recollect how far they go to the northward, but I am almost inclined to think the Sugarloaf Peak Island is what Bougenville calls the Peak of Averdi [Pic de l’Averdi, Bougainville]. What I have seen however are seven Islands including the North Rocks. The largest may be 18 or 20 leagues in circuit - one fertile and inhabited for we saw several smokes. They extend from the latd. of 14° 10’ So. to 13° 17’ So. and from 169° 29’ E. to 168° 12’ E. On the East side of the Island next to the North Rocks appeared a very fine Harbour the points of which shut on at S. b. W. & N. b. E. The Hills seem’d to slope from the top of the Island all into this Bason so that if one may reason from appearances at this distance, it is a secure place. The Island may 5 or 7 leagues round, and from hence to the Westermost Island is 15 leagues.

The Sugarloaf Peak & S.E. part of large Isld. came on at S.W. b. W. With the N.E. Island S. ½ E., and the N.E. Island with the N.West part of large Island W.S.W. My sketch of the Islands will give a better idea of their extent & situation.

But my little reflection will show our miserable situation. We are now but little better than starving with plenty in view, yet the risk is so great to get that relief, that prolonging of life even in the midst of misery is preferable while we have hopes of surmounting all our hardships but for my own part I consider the general run of cloudy & wet weather to be a providential blessing to us. Hot weather would have killed us with thirst before this time. We now sleep covered with either Rain or sea.

[Page 110]

Rems. Saturdy. May 16th 1789 – Bounty’s Launch

Fresh Gales and much sea with squalls of Rain.
Served 1/24 lb. bread and a jill of water. Sea constantly breaking over us and miserably wet & cold.
Dark dismal night, no stars to see to steer by only the Wind to direct us which forces us mostly before it which I have now carefully to act against lest I should be drove on the Coast of New Guinea or in sight of it where their Prows would soon take us & put an end to our Voyage.
Dark Cloudy Wr. with squalls of Rain, but not so much wind, but sea High & breaking. Very wet and cold. Served 1/24 lb. Bread & a jill of Water for breakfast.
Fair Wr. & Cloudy. Got our Cloaths to dry. Got a good observation. Saw a Booby, Noddies & a Mother Carey’s Chicken.
Served 1/24 lb. Bread & Water as before & I advanced today about 1 oz. of pork to each person. I am often sollicited for this Pork but I consider it better to give it in ever so small quantities than in all once or twice wch. would be the case if I wou’d allow it.

[Page 111]

Rems. Sundy. May 17th 1789 – Bounty’s Launch

Strong Breezes and Cloudy. Being apprehensive that the strong southly. winds may force me too near New Guinea, and sensible I must keep my situation so as to make a South wind a fair one; I now fully made up my mind to make New Holland to the southward of Endeavor Streights and range the Reefs untill I could can find an opening within which I must find smooth water & the sooner pick up some refreshments.
Served Bread & Water for Supper as yesterday.
Storms of Thunder, Lightning and heavy Rain. Two people constantly bailing and so dark scarce able to [see ?] each other. No stars to be seen so that our steerage is very uncertain.
D. Wr. Very Wet and cold and our situation truly unhappy. My people complaining & wanting extra allowance, but I possitively refused it. My having saved & taken care of the little Rum I had is now of great avail. Served a teaspoonfull to each person & their bread & water as yesterday.
D. Wind & Rain & Sky dreadfully black & threatg. a circumstance. A water spout very near on board of us. Served the usual allowance of Bread & being very Wet & Cold I gave an oz. of pork to each man for dinner. Often washing & wringing our Cloaths out of the salt water for warmth.

[Page 112]

Rems. Monday May 18th 1789. Bounty’s Launch

Light Winds and heavy Rain which enables us to keep our stock of water up.
Fresh Gale & very squally. A heavy sea from the S.E. constantly breaking over us. Two Men bailing.
Very wet & Cold, served 1/24 lb. bread & water for Supper.
Dark dismal night, no stars, steering as the sea directs us. Very heavy Rain which cramps all our Limbs.
Rain abated. Strip’d naked as usual and washed and wrung our cloaths out of Salt water which refreshed us wonderfully. Served 1/24 lb. Bread & water as usual for Breakfast.
Squally with Rain. Served 1/24 lb. Bread and a jill of water fro Dinner. Everyone now complains of violent pains in their Bones. Constantly bailing. Boobies, Noddies and many Tropick Gulls about.

[Page 113]

Rems. Tuesdy. May 19th 1789 – Bounty’s Launch

Squally with Rain.
A very confused sea which breaks over us on all sides. Constantly bailing.
Dark cloudy Wr. and fresh breezes. Washed and wrung our Cloaths in salt water. I afterwards served the allowance of Bread as usual.
Squally with Rain.
Constant heavy Rain and Light’ning.
Miserably Cold. I would now willingly have issued an allowance of Rum, but as it appears likely to me that we are to suffer much more of this weather, I must keep the little I have to give relief at a time we may be less able to bear such hardships.
Rain abated. Wrung our wet Cloaths, when I served Bread & water as yesterday for breakfast.
Squally.
Fresh Gale & Constant Rain. I served an ½ oz. of Pork today with the Bread & water for dinner which was thought a Feast. Severe Bone achs. All Night & Day constantly bailing.

[Page 114]

Rems. Wednesdy. May 20th 1789 – Bounty’s Launch

Mod. and Rainy Wr., the wind moderating as the Sun passed the Meridian.
Deluge of Rain. Constantly bailing.
Served Bread 1/24 lb. for Supper. Water we want none for our thirst seems to be quenched through our skin. Every poor fellow now dreads the Night for the little sleep we get we are wakened from by wet & extreme cramps & pains in the bones.
No intermition of Rain and at times a Deluge.
At Dawn of day some of my people half dead, the weather continuing the same. I now served two teaspoonfulls of Rum to each person. Our appearances were horrible and I could look no way but I caught the eye of someone. Served Bread & water as usual for breakfast, and I endeavored to prove that we were more happy in our present situation than if we had fair weather.
Tropic Gulls, Men of War Birds & Boobies.
Towards Noon the Rain abated and had the Sun out. Hung up our wet things today. Served 1/24 lb. of Bread & 2 jills of water for Dinner & the horrors of last night became a little obliterated which I was happy to see.

[Page 115]

Rems. Thursdy. May 21st 1789 – Bounty’s Launch

Fresh Breezes & Cloudy.
Constant Rain – Many Birds – Boobies, Noddies, & Tropic Gulls flying close round us. Many Shirks [sharks ?] & Dolphins and other Fish but cannot catch any.
Served 1/24 lbs. Bread for Supper as usual to each person.
Fresh Gale & Rain.
A very heavy storm of Rain and dismal dark weather. Our compass no use to us by night & now obliged to steer as the wind & sea direct us.
The Deluge of Rain was now so heavy that it was with much difficulty we could keep the Boat free.
At Dawn of day the Rain moderated a little. Served a spoonfull of Rum to each person.
Served Bread & water for breakfast as before. Everyone miserably wet and cold and much distressed.
The weather a little better.
Fresh Gales & Cloudy Wr.and free of Rain wth. the sun out at times, but the sea every five minutes breaking over us, so that we never can omit bailing. Served 1/24 lb. Bread & water for dinner.
I now consider myself on a Meridian with the East part of New Guinea & about 65 leags. dist.

[Page 116]

Rems. Friday May 22, 1789 – Bounty’s Launch

Strong Gales a fine Wr. but the Sea running very high from the S.En. and keeps us constantly bailing and wet.
The Sun set in heavy clouds and watery so that we again expect wet weather. Served 1/24 lb. of Bread and a jill of water for supper.
Several heavy seas broke over us & near filling the Boat. Obliged to carry Sail yet tremble every minute for losing my Mast.
Very Wet, but no cold as when it Rains. Very dark Night.
Very squally with a very Hard Gale. If ever Men experienced the power and goodness of Divine Providence we do at this instant in a most eminnent degree, and I presume to say our present situation would make the boldest Seamen tremble that ever lived. We take the course of the sea which happily keeps a western direction.
Fair Wr. but no abatement of the Gale or Sea. Keeping right before it & the foam running over our quarters. Any accident to our Helm would now send us all to the bottom. With great difficulty & being proped up I got an observation.
Served 1/24 of lb. of Bread & a jill of water for breakfast & Dinner.

[Page 117]

Rems. Saturday May 23rd 1789 – Bounty’s Launch

Strong Gale and fair Wr. but a high breaking sea which keeps us constantly bailing and wet.
Served 1/24 lb. bread and a jill of water for Supper.
Hard Squalls and Rain.
Our situation now truly unhappy and miserable. The sea flying over us with great force. Constantly bailing. Dismal dark Night.
At Dawn of day I found everyone in a most distress’d condition and I now began to fear that another such a night would produce the end of several. I applied my sovereign remedy two spoonfulls of Rum to each person & the Rain being over everyone wrung their wet Cloaths through salt water & became exceedingly refreshed after their Breakfast of Bread & Water.
Fair Wr. but very little abatement of the Gale and the sea equally high. Served 1/24 lb. Bread and a jill of water for dinner. Constantly wet & baling. Everyone has severe Bone Achs. With great difficulty I got an observation.

[Page 118]

Rems. Sundy. May 24th 1789 – Bounty’s Launch

Strong Gale and very high sea. Constantly wet and bailing.
Many Mother Carey’s Chicken.
Gale moderating and sea less, so that I am able to steer more across it.
Weather looking much better which rejoices all hands. Served 1/24 lb. Bread & a jill of water for Supper.
Fresh Gale & a fine Night but being wet by the Sea we suffered cold.
Fine Morning and I had the pleasure to see everyones countenance bear the marks of more life and spirit than I expected. Served 1/24 lb. Bread & a jill of water for breakfast & hung up all our wet which are now become so threadbare that they neither keep out cold or wet.
Fine Wr. and for the first time these 15 days past we found a little warmth from the Sun. I now served an oz. of Pork with the usual of allowance of Bread & water for Dinner.

[Page 119]

Rems. Monday May 25th 1789 – Bounty’s Launch

Fine Wr. & Fresh Gale and the Sea running fair & not breaking which is a great relief to us.

Many Birds – Boobies, Noddies & Men of War Birds. I this afternoon determined on knowing the exact quantity of Bread I had according to my present issues, and on examining it found I had 29 Days allowance. In the course of this time I hope to be at Timor, but as that is very uncertain and perhaps after all be obliged to go to Java, I determined to proportion my issues to 6 Weeks. I considered this would be ill received, it therefore demanded my most determined resolution to inforce it provided I was opposed, for small as [indecipherable] quantity was I was taking away for our future good; yet it appeared like robbing them of Life, & some who were particularly voracious would not like it. I however represented it so essentially necessary to guard against delays on our Voyage by contrary Winds or other Causes, and promised to enlarge upon the allowance as we got on, but it was readily complied with. I therefore fixed that every person should receive 1/24 of lb. for Breakfast & 1/24 for Dinner, so that by omitting the issue at Supper I should have 43 days allowance.

Fair Wr. & Squally. Tropic Gullies & Noddies. Caught a Noddy by hand, it is about the size of a small Pidgeon. This was a small help to us. I divided it with its entrails into 18 portions, & wth. 1/24 lb. Bread we made our dinners using Salt water as Sauce. Some of my People begin to exhibit great marks of weakness & complain of want of evacuations by stool.

[Page 120]

Rems. Tuesdy. 26 May 1789 – Bounty’s Launch

Fair Wr. with a Fresh Gale and squally with Rain at times.

Caught a Booby by hand – several flying about us & almost lighting on our heads. This Bird is as large as a good Duck, it has got its name from the Seamen for suffering itself to be caught on the Masts & yards of Ships. They are generally in the neighbourhood of Land. I directed it to be killed for supper when the blood was given to three of the most distress’d for want of food. The body, entrails, beak & legs I divided into 18 portions & with a small allowance of bread we made a chearfull supper.

Noon changed this morning.

Very fine Wr. which has encreased my people’s Spirits wonderfully, but we are all very weak. Caught another Booby so that Providence seems to be relieving our wants. Served Bread 1/24 lbs. & a jill of water for breakfast.

Topic Gulls, Boobies, Noddies & many fruits of Trees passing, some covered with Barnacles.

Fine Wr. Served 1/24 lb. Bread & divided the Bird as in the Evening into 18 parcels. I did this as equally as possible the method of distribution however was by, “who shall have this?" for the prize was valuable. We use salt water to dip our bread in to give it a taste, but my common way is by breaking it in small pieces, eating it in a Coconutt Shell wth. my allowe. of water, as a bason of Broth.

[Page 121]

Rems. Wednesdy. 27th May 1789 – Bounty’s Launch

Fine Wr. I think Monsr. Bougenville was about this track in the Month of June & had weather very like to what I have experienced. It also runs to the eastward of the Friendly Islands, but from a hundred leagues to the eastd. of them to Otaheite and to the eastward the weather in these months is more serene and settled.

At 6 caught another Booby. The blood eat by those who were the weakest. The maw contained severl. small Flying Fish & Squibs, all of which I ordered to be kept for dinner.

All the afternoon we had many Birds particularly Noddies about us, also many small pieces of sticks & some pieces of weed. I therefore hourly expect to make the reefs of New Holland & have determined to do it with my course West, for the sooner I get to the shore the greater chance I have of preserving some of my People’s lives.

From my recollection of Capt. Cook’s survey of this coast I consider the direction of it to be about N.W. & therefore can clear it wth. the wind to [indecipherable] southd. of East.

Caught another Booby & prepared it for dinner with the one caught at Night. Served 1/24 lb. Bread & a jill of water for breakfast.

Many birds – Boobies & Noddies.

Fine Wr. but very hot. People very faint. I divided the two Birds with all the offals & Fish, and distributed the shares with Bread & water as yesterday. I now gave every hopes of seeing land & everyone became buoyed up with expectation of getting some relief at New Holland.

[Page 122]

Rems. Thursday 28 May 1789, New Holland

Fresh Breezes and fine Wr. and a fair going Sea. Bailing every ten minutes keeps the Boat free of water.
Clouds keeping very fixed in the West leads me to be believe we are drawing near to New Holland. Saw a Gannet.
Served 1/24 two jills of water only for Supper.
Heard the Sound of Breakers and saw them under our lee Bow bearg. W.S.W. about a ¼ of a mile, breaking very high. Hauled the wind and in 10 minutes we could neither hear or see them.
Nothing in sight, I steered in again for the Coast.
Saw the Reef extending from N.N.W. to S. b. W. three miles off – hauled the wind.
At 9½h. saw an opening & distant Land like an Island bearg. W. ½ N. 7 or 8 leags. distant. Bore away and entered a safe channel about 3 cables length wide with a strong stream running in.
Untill 11 o’clock tryed to keep hold of the reef to Fish but could not on acct. of the tide. I therefore bore away at 11 o’clock. The Channel I came in at E.S.E. 5 miles.
At Noon Fine Wr. and smooth water, the land first seen or Isle of Direction W.S.W. 5 leags. & other land N.W. b. W. ½ W. Sheltered from the sea by the Reefs without us.
Served 1/24 lb. Bread & a jill of water for dinner.

Rems.
The course &. dist. at 11 o’clock in the back beargs. of the Channel having entered it at 10 o’clock.

[Page 123]

Rems.

[See image for sketch.]

Thus appeared the Isld. of Direction after I was within the Reef bearg. W. b. S. 5 leags. & is very little different from the appearance it has when without, bearing West or W. ½ No., only higher.

I have already mentioned my reason for making New Holland so far to the southward, for I never doubted of numerous openings in the Reef through which I could have access to the shore, and knowing the inclination of the Coast to be to the N.W., and the wind mostly to the southward of East, I could range such a barrier of Reefs untill I found a passage, which now became absolutely necessary without a moment’s delay, to search for supplies and to get into smooth water, the very idea of which seemed only now to keep some of my people’s spirits up. The joy therefore was great after we had got clear of the Breakers, to which we were much nearer than I thought it was possible for us to be without knowing it. I stood to the N.N.E. under close reefs Fore Sl. & Main Sail and having served each person an allowance of water I anxiously looked for daylight. At 6 o’clock I could see no land or breakers and I bore away to make the Reefs again, which I did by nine o’clock. The sea broke furiously over every part of the reef, and I hauled the wind to the Northd. as no opening was to be seen by which we could get within, where we saw the water so smooth, that everyone already anticipated the heart felt satisfaction he would receive, as soon as we could accomplish my intention. But I now found we were rather embayed & I could not lay clear with my sails to sea, such a heavy sea setting in & the wind at East, so that our situation was now become dangerous. I expected but little from the oars, because we had no strength to pull them, & it was every minute becomig. more & more probable that I should be obliged to take the Reef in case we could not pull off. Even in this I did not doubt of effecting with success, when happily we discovered a break in the Reef abt. one mile from me and at the same time an Isld. appeared as above in the same direction W. ½ N. I entered the Passage with a strong stream running to the westward &

[Page 124]

and found it about two Cables length broad and every appearance of deep water. On the outside the Reef inclined to the N.E. for a few miles & from thence to the N.W. and on the south part of the entrance it inclined to the S.S.W. as far as I could see it, and I conjecture a similar passage to this I have now entered, lies between it and the Breakers I first discovered, which are in latd. 13° 14’ So. 23 miles South of this Channel the situation of which is 12° 51’ So. 145° 10’ En.

Being now happily within the reef & smooth water I endeavoured to keep hold of the Reef to fish, but the Tide set us to the N.W., I therefore bore away in that direction and having promised to land on the first convenient spot we could find all our past hardships already seemed to be forgot.

At Noon I had a good observation from whence the above situations may be considered to be determined with some exactness, and the Island first seen which I have called the Island of Direction, in fair weather, will always show the Channel when bearing West, and may be seen as soon as the Reefs from a Ship’s Mastheads, being in the Latd. of 12° 51’ So. These however are Marks too small for a ship to hit, unless it can hereafter be known that passages are numerous along the Coast through the reef which I am inclined to think they are, in which case the risk is not so great if the wind is not directly on the Coast.

I now guessed at the North part of New Holland lying in about 10° 30’ So. Latitude and that the direction of the Coast was about N.W. if my recollection was right, about which I was pretty certain. We therefore have about 64 or 70 leagues of Coast to run past to search for refreshments.

We now returned God thanks for his gracious

[Page 125]

protection, and with much intent eat our miserable allowance of Bread & Water for Dinner.

I cannot recollect what latitude Providence Channel is in but I consider the one we have entered, not to be far off it.

[Page 126]

Rems. Friday 29th May 1789, New Holland

Fine Wr. and smooth water.

Came to a Grapnel on the end of a Reef, to try for Fish. The Isld. Direction South 3 or 4 leagues and an Island W. b. N. about 4 or 5 Miles where I determined if possible to spend the night.

At 5 o’clock past a small Rocky Isle close to the larger one, where I was bound, and on the N.W. side between it & the main I found a fine sandy point where I brought to a Grapnel and landed. It was now a quarter past 5 o’clock.

The Northermost land which I called Fair Cape bore N.W. b. N. ¼ N. 7 leagues and a point of the Main opposite to us from S.W. b. So. to N.N.W. ¾ W. distant a quarter of a Mile. A small Islet was on with the north extreme. Another bore N. b. W. 4 or 5 leags. distant. A remarkable Peaked Hill on the Main S. b. W. ¾ W. about 8 miles & land as far as S. b. E. but the Island of Direction was not in sight from this part of the Isld.

Found oysters & Perrywinkles. One half slept on shore but could make no Fire.

In the morning employed gathering oysters & others getting the Boat in order. Made a Fire by a small magnifying Glass I always carried about me. Dug and found a fine Well of Water. Made a fine Stew of oysters & I issued to be mixed with it an allowance of Bread & some Pork and at Noon I distributed to each person a full pint. Found three kinds of Berries of which we eat without any bad effects. People very weak & troubled with dreadfull tenesmus. Signs of Natives having been here. Island woody. Many Doves & other Birds.

[Page 127]

Rems.

Soon after Noon the Coast began to show itself very distinctly with a variety of high & low lands, some parts of which were covered with wood. In my way towards the shore I fell in with a point of a reef which is connected with that towards the sea, and here I dropt a Grapnel and tryed for fish, but I had no success. Two Islands now lay about 2 miles from us and appeared elligible for a resting place if nothing more; but on my approach to the first I found it nothing but a Heap of Stones on which nothing was to be found; not even Birds, and its size was too inconsiderable to admit sheter [shelter] for the Boat. I therefore proceeded to the next which was close to it & next to the main and much larger, where on the N.W. side I found a Bay and a fine Sandy point to land at.

Having landed I proceeded to examine if there were any signs of Natives being near us, but altho I discovered some old fire places I saw nothing to alarm me for our situation during the Night. Everyone was anxious to discover something to eat, and I soon heard that oysters were found on the Rocks, for the tide was out. This was a joyous tyding to us, and everyone began to search for them; but it was nearly dark, only a few therefore could be got. I now divided the people for the Night, one half to sleep on shore and the other in the Boat but a great difficulty we had to surmount which was to make a fire, & after all our tryals, failed, we therefore content with the very moderate supply we had found, took our rest for the Night, which happily was calm & undisturbed.

The Dawn of day brought greater strength & spirits to us than I expected; for notwithstanding everyone was very weak, yet I saw still powers which I hoped would effect the remaining part of our Voyage. I soon saw that no Natives were immediately near us, and I therefore consented for parties to go out in search of supplies, while others were getting the Boat in order that I might be ready to put to sea in case

[Page 128]

any unforseen cause might make it necessary. The first object of this necessary work that demanded refitting was the Rudder, one of the Gudgeons having come out in the course of the Night & was lost. This if it had happened at Sea would most probably have been the cause of our perishing, as the management of the Boat would have been lost, at least not so nicely preserved as the very heavy seas required it. I had often expressed my fear of this accident that we might be prepared for it, & had taken the precaution to have grummets fixed on each quarter for oars. This defect was remedied by a large Staple, when my Parties returned highly rejoiced at having found plenty of oysters & fresh water. In the course of this time I had made a fire by a small magnifying Glass that I always carried about me to read off the divisions of my Sextants, and I made some Tinder, one of the Men (fortunately) having a piece of brimstone & a Tinder Box by which means we secured fire in future.

By the presence of mind of one of my people they brought away with them a Copper Pot, it was by being in possession of this article that I was enabled to make a proper use of the supply we had found, and with a mixture of bread & a little pork I got made a Stew, that was eatable by people of more delicate appetites, of which each person received a full Pint. In the distribution of it the voraciousness of some & moderation of others was very discernable to me, & even the Master began to be disatisfied the first, because it was not made into a larger quantity by the addition of water.

The general complaints of disease were a dizzyness of the head, great weakness of the joints, and violent tenesmus (a) besides which I suffered much pain at the pit of my Stomach but none of our complaints were alarming, on the contrary

(a) Most of us had no evacuation since we left the Ship.

[Page 129]

everyone retained marks of strength, that with a mind possessed of my fortitude could bear much more fatigue than I hoped we had to undergo in my route to Timor.

As I would not consent to any one exposing himself to the heat of the Sun & it being near Noon, every one took his allotment of earth shaded by a Tree for a short sleep.

The oysters we found grew so fast to the rocks that it was with difficulty they could be broke off, and we found it the most expeditious way at last to open them where they were. They were very sizeable and well tasted, and gave us great relief. But to add to this happy circumstance, in a hollow of the Land where grew some wire Grass which indicated a moist situation, on forcing a stick about three feet into the ground, we found water, and with little trouble dug a Well which produced us as much as we were in need of. It was very good, but I cannot ascertain whether it is a Spring or not. Our wants made it not necessary for us to make the Well deep, we therefore bailed it dry in filling our Water Vessels; but it soon flowed again & we left it as full as we found it, which with the soil being apparently too loose to contain water from the Rains, renders it probable to be a Spring. It lies about 200 yards to the S.E. of Restoration point on the S.W. part of the Island.

I found evident signs of the Natives resorting to this Island, for besides fire places I saw two poor wigwams having only one side covered. We found a pointed stick about three feet long with a notch or slit in the end of it to sling stones with, and identically the same kind as the Natives have at Van Diemens land. The Track of some animal was very conspicuous on the Sand, & Mr. Nelson agreed with me that it was the Kangaroo, but how this animal can get from the main we cannot with certainty affirm, perhaps brought by the Natives to breed that they may take them with more

[Page 130]

care, when and render a supply of food certain to them, which on the continent may be precarious, and only to be got with great trouble; owing to the extent of country.

This Island may be about 2 miles in extent it is a high lump of Rocks and stones covered with wood, but the Trees are but small with only sufficient soil to produce them which of itself is very indifferent and sandy. The Trees that came within our knowledge were the Toa – Manchineel & species of the Purow – also some Palm Trees the Tops of which we cut down, and the soft interior part or heart of them I form’d to be so palatable, that I allowed it to be put into our mess. Mr. Nelson discovered some Fern Roots which I thought might be good roasted as a succedaneum for Bread but it proved a very poor one, it however was very good to allay thirst & I therefore directed a quantity to be collected to take into the Boat. Many pieces of Cocoa Nutt shells & Husk were found about the shore but we could not find any Trees, or see any like them on the Main.

Altho I had caution’d everyone not to touch any kind of fruit that they might appear meet with, yet they were no sooner away, than everyone was secretly plucking of three different kinds that grew all over the Island, and eating without any reserve. The sympton only of having eaten too much began at last to frighten some of them, who on asking others who had taken a more moderate allowance found their minds a little easy that no such complaint rested with them; but these became equally alarmed that such symptons would come on so that they regarded each other with the strongest marks of apprehension of what would be

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the issue of their impudence. Happily the Fruit proved wholesome and good. One kind grew on a small delicate vine, they were about the size of a goosberry and of very like substance, but the taste was only sweet. The skin was of a pale Red straked with yellow and was a very pleasant fruit. Another kind grew on bushes like what is called the Seaside Grape in the West Indies, these were very like elder Berries both in size and growth. The third was a black Berry not so plenty as the others and not much unlike a Bullum or large kind of Slo [Sloe] both in size and taste. The seeing these Fruit eat hollow by Birds and Insects, led me to consider them fit to be used by us, and those who had already tried the experiment finding no bad effects, made it a certainty that we might eat of them without fear.

Wild Pidgeons, Parrots & other Birds were in great numbers about the summit of the Island, but as I had no fire arms, any relief from Birds was not to be expected, unless I met with some unfrequented spot where I might take them by hand. This leads me to a comparison of the vast difference in the sagacity of the feathered species and animals. Of the latter I know of no instance (excepting the domesticated part) where they are not whiley and run from the approach of a Human Being, or make a prey of him; but with the former on the contrary, in unfrequented situations they delight in the novelty untill they feel the effects of the propensity that Man has to destroy them. What is still remarkable, that in ever so unfrequented a spot, the Land Birds are not so tame as the Sea.

About ½ mile round on the south side of the Island from the Well a small Run of Water was discovered, but as its source was not traced I can say no more of it.

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The shore of this Island is Rocky except at the part we are at where on the Beach we picked up many pieces of Pumice Stone. The point of the Main next to us had several fine sandy Beaches but at low water it was a Rocky Flat. The Country had rather a barren appearance except in a few places where it was covered with wood. A remarkable range of Rocks lay a few miles to the S.W. and a high peaked Hill terminated the Coast towards the sea, with other high lands and Islands to the southward. A high Fair Cape showed the direction of the Coast to the northwest about 7 leagues, and two small Keys lay about 4 leags. to the northward of us. We saw no fires in the course of the Night from whence I concluded there were no Natives very near to us.

Saw a few Bees or Wasps, several Lizards and the black Berry bushes were full of Ants Nests.

A Trunk of a Tree about 50 feet long lay on the beach from whence I conclude a very heavy sea runs in here in the time of the northerly winds.

This being the Day of the Restoration King Charles the 2nd & the name being not inapplicable to my present situation I named the Island after it, as I think it probable Capt. Cook may not have taken notice of it. The other name I presume to give the different parts of the Coast is only to show my route a little more distinct.

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Rems. Saturday 30th May 1789

Very fine weather with E.S.E. and S.E. winds.

This afternoon the parties were out again to gather oysters and with some of the inner parts of the Palm Top I got made another good Stew for Supper of which each person got a full pint and half, but I refused bread to this meal, for I considered my wants might yet be very great, and as such I represented the necessity of saving our principal support whenever it was in our power. This occasioned some murmuring with the Master & Carpenter the former of whom wanted to prove a propriety of such an expenditure, and was troublesomely ignorant tending to prove inate disorder among those who were weak enough to listen to him.

At Night I again divided one part slept in the Boat and the other by a good Fire. In the morning I discovered a visible alteration in everyone for the better, and they again set off to gather oysters. I had now only two lbs. of Pork left and I promised to give it for dinner with an allowance of Bread. This article which I could not keep under lock & key as I did the bread was exposed to the theft of some inconsiderate person, but everyone most sacredly denied it. I therefore resolved to put it out their power for the future. While the party was out gathering oysters I got the Boat in readyness for sea, & filled all our Water Casks which amounted to nearly 60 Gallons. Cutt some a few small spars & gathered a quantity of Fern Root. The party returned & we again made an excellent meal. I now proposed that an exertion should be made to

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collect as many oysters as possible for a sea store, but our full bellies made us forget the necessity, and I had an opposition to such a plan, alledging they were too weak, and that there was no doubt but we should find plenty as we got on, if I meant to touch at any other part of the Coast, which I had informed them I did. I was told also that when I was out of hearing there were several complaining of my stay at this place & that it was much better to be going on, so that these unthankfull people were no sooner saved from perishing with want & fatigue than they had forgot the mercies they had received. I therefore after reprobating their conduct sent them out for a sea store & told them they should now pursue their voyage at all events, gather what they would.

About Noon the party returned with the few oysters they had time to gather & every thing was put into the Boat. I examined the quantity of Bread I had and I found 38 days allowance at 1/12 of a lb. per day for each person. To the People who gave me no uneasyness at this place I shall do them the justice to mention their Names – Mr. Nelson, Mr. Samuels, Mr. Hayward, Mr. Peckover, Mr. Ledward, Mr. Hallet, Mr. Cole, Thos. Hale, John Smith, Lawrence Lebogue.

At Noon I had good observation for the latitude & found the latitude it to be 12° 39’ So., Merid. Altd. [symbol for centre point] Center 55° 32’ with a common Quadrant. High Water at Noon today & 3 feet rise of the Tide. Flood from the Northward. At hull & [indecipherable] by this it is high water at 50 min. past 7 in the morning.

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Rems. Sunday 31st May 1789

Very fine Wr.

Performed prayers.

Saw Natives on the Main. Sailed strong Tide in our favour.

Fair Cape N.W. b. W. ¾ W. 4 leags. A small Key N.E. b. N. 6 miles. The one seen from our landg. place, N. b. W. 6 or 7 miles. Restoration Isld. S.S.E. ¼ E. 7 miles nearly on with Isld. of Direction, the latter being only just discernable. Fair Cape being the northermost land in sight.

Hauled the Wind as I found I was embayed Kd.

Kd. Fair Cape S.S.E. 5 leagues. East part of the Main North 4 miles. Islands from N. ¼ E. 2 miles to E.S.E. 6 miles. Steered between them and the Main, where seven Natives came to the shore armed with spears & other weapons.

At 8 I landed on the largest & northermost of these Isles from whence the Main low & sandy, bore W. b. N. 3 leags. with two small Keys off it, and the southert. part to be seen S. ½ E. 4 miles being Indian Bay.

Sent Parties out for supplies. I went on the heights to look at the Coast. Saw it no farther. A Key N.W. b. Nd.

At Noon observ. by the Marks on the Rocks that the Tide at times rose 4 & 5 feet. See rems. following.

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Rems. Sunday 31st May continued.

Having finished our Dinner and all ready to put to sea I read Prayers and return’d thanks for the great supplies we had received. I had but just done & were preparing to embark when twenty Natives appeared on the opposite shore holloaing to us. They were armed with a spear or Lance, and a shorter weapon which they carried in their left hands and made signs for us to come to them. On the top of the Hills we saw the heads of many more; whether these were their Wives & Children, or others who waited for our landing, untill which they meant not to show themselves lest we might be intimidated, I cannot say; But as I found we were discovered to be on the Coast I thought it prudent to push on for fear of Cannoes. I passed these people as near as I could which was within ¼ of a mile but I can only say they appeared to be black with short bushy Hair or Wool.

I steered for the small Isld. bearg. N. b. W. from Restoration point, & from thence for Fair Cape with a strong tide in my favour, so that I was abreast of it about 8 o’clock. The Coast was high and woody. As I could see no land without Fair Cape I concluded that the Coast inclined to the N.W. & W.N.W., & it was agreeable with my recollection of Captain Cook’s survey of it. I therefore steered accordingly, but by eleven at Night I found myself mistaken, as I met with low land and found I was embayed.

At Day break I was exceedingly surprised to find the appearance of the Country all changed to a low & sandy coast with very little verdure, there were however in many places Patches of Trees & small wood.

There were many Islands to the northward and eastward

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and I took the Channel between the nearest and the Main about 1 mile apart, leaving all the Islands on the starboard side, some of these were very pretty spots, covered wth. wood about which were large schools of Fish, but we could not catch any. We now again saw the Natives seven in number running towards us shouting & making signs for us to land – some of them waved green branches to us as a sign of friendship, but there were some of their other motions less friendly. A larger party we saw coming at a distance, I therefore determined not to land altho I wish’d much to have seen these people & make Friends with them, for which purpose I beckoned them to come near to me, & laid the Boat near to the Rocks, but not one would come within 200 yds. of us. They were armed as those I had seen at from Restoration Isld. and appeared to be jet black with short bushy Hair and quite naked. I do not think their talk was like the Natives of Van Diemens Land. An Island now of a good height bore N. ½ W. 4 miles from us, at which I resolved to see what could be got, and from thence to take a look at the Coast, I therefore made sail towards it and landed at 8 o’clock. The shore was rocky wth. some sandy beaches within it, the water however was smooth & I landed without difficulty. I now sent two parties out, one to the northward & the other to the southward to see what could be got, and others I ordered to stay by the Boat, when a muttering began again, who had done the most and I found I had but a little command among a few if they had not fear’d I was yet able to enforce it by force more than laying simply my commands. The Carpenter began to be insolent to a high degree and at last told me with a mutinous aspect he was as good a Man as I was. I did not just now see where this was to end.

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I therefore determined to strike a final blow at it and either to preserve my command or die in the attempt, and taking hold of a Cutlass I ordered the Rascal to take hold of another and defend himself. The Master now instead of backing his Commander & seizing the Villain of a Mutineer called out to the Boatswain to put me in arrest, and the fellow began to make concessions alledging to the others who were coming in, I was going to kill him, but Mr. Nelson now began to support my authority, and I told the Master, that if he ever presumed to intefere while I was in the execution of my duty, and that should any tumult in future arise, I would certainly instantly put him to death the first person. He now assured me that on the contrary of opposing me I might rely on him to support my orders & directions for the future. This is the outline of a tumult which lasted about a quarter of an hour, and I have been given to understand that the Master & Carpenter were endeavoring to produce altercations & were the cause of murmurings about their gathering food at the last place, but I must do the other people the justice to say that they began to appear dissatisfied with these two Men, and particularly the Master who notwithstanding he held an ostensible place as the next officer in command, not a person but considered him a mean & ignorant fellow, ever disposed to be troublesome, and then ready to beg pardon.

I did not suffer this to interfere with the harmony of the well disposed – some fine Oysters, Clams, and a few small Dog fish were brought in (a) and I set the Cooks to work to make Dinner. On the north part we found a hollow in the ground which contained about two Tons of Rain Water, so that of this essential article we were again so happy as not to be in want. After regulating the mode of proceeding I set off to mount the highest

(a) also a small Bean called Dollacus wch. considered to be good.

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part of the Island to see and consider of my route for the night, but to my surprise I could see no more of the Main than I did below, it extending only from S. ½ E. 4 miles to W. b. N. about three leagues full of Sand Hills. Besides the Isles to the E.S.E. and south that I had seen before, I could only discover a small Key in the N.W. b. N. As this was considerably farther from the Main than where I was at present, I resolved to get there by night it being a more secure resting place, for I was here open to an attack if the Indians had Cannoes, as they undoubtedly observed my landing. My mind being made up on this point I returned taking a particular look at the spot I was on, which I found only to produce a few Tropical Bushes & coarse grass, and the extent of the Island not more than 2 miles in circuit. On the North side in a Sandy Bay we found an old Cannoe about 33 feet long bottom up. It was made of three pieces, the bottom intire, to which the sides were sewed in a common way. It had a sharp projecting head prow rudely carved in resemblance of a Fishes head. The extreme width was three feet and I believe could carry 20 Men.

I now returned to my People and found the latitude of the Island to be 11° 58’ So. and Longd. 144° 29’ E. being N. 19° W. 43 miles from Restoration Island. The Parties were now all in, but found difficulty in gathering the oysters from their adhering so close to the Rocks, and the Clams were not plenty. I therefore saw that without delaying time for a day or two, (& not even then) that I should be able to collect but few more than we could eat & as real and actual exertions could be wanting, any tolerable sea store could not be expected unless I fell in with a greater plenty.

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Rems. Monday 1st June 1789, New Holland

Very fine weather and smooth water. Dined on a plentiful meal of stewed oysters and Clams, and sailed at three o’clock, and called this Isld. Sunday after the name of ye.[yester ?] day.

A high peaked mountain opened with the north part of the Main at W. b. S. ¼ S. and could see the coast as far as W.N.W. – milk white Sand Hills very conspicuous.

At 6 o’clock I arrived at the Key I intended to spend the night at, but the tide being low & a very rocky shore, I could not land without risk of getting some of the Rocks through the Boat’s bottom, I therefore brought to a grapnel for the Night.

Lagoon Island.

[See image for drawing of Lagoon Island.]

At daylight got the Boat in upon the Beach. Saw a Turtle Track – sent parties off to see what they could pick up.

People complaining of sickness at the stomach & some with dreadfull Tenesmus.

A very fresh Gale & Fair Wr. Parties returned with some Clams. Mr. Nelson ill.

Rems.
Low water at Noon.

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Rems.

(a) High water full & change at 19 mins. past 9 in the morng.

At two o’clock our Dinner being ready we dined very heartily, and having taken what water we were in want of, I only waited to determine the time of high water which I found to be at 3 o’clock, and the rise of the Tide about 5 feet, and flood from the southward. The run of the Flood agrees with it being high water later here than at the last place altho there I thought the Flood came from the northward. (a)

At 3 o’clock I sailed for the Key I had seen in the N.W. b. N., and got to it just at dark; but I found it so surrounded by a Reef of Rocks, that I could not land unless I risked staving the Boat, and therefore came to a Grapnel for the night.

At Dawn of Day we got on shore and tracked the Boat into shelter, for the wind blowing fresh without, and the ground rocky, I was affraid of to trust her at Grapnel lest she might be blown to sea. I was therefore reduced to the necessity of letting her ground. From the appearance of the place we were at I expected in the course of the following night to meet with Turtle, & had already discovered the Track of them. I found also that this was a resting place for Birds, and upon the whole I flattered myself of getting supplies in greater abundance than I had at any place we had been. The situation was 4 leags. at least from the Main, and we were on the N. Westermost of four small Keys, which surrounded by a rocky reef, & connected by sand banks, except between the two northermost, were it was only passable at low water over rocks; formed a lagoon Isld. into which the Tide flowed and at the entrance of which I kept the Boat. As usual I sent parties away in search of supplies, but to my astonishment we could only get a few Clams and a small Bean which Mr. Nelson called Dollacus. With these and the oysters we had brought from Sunday Island I made a mess for Dinner with an addition of an half allowance of Bread.

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On the East Key Birds innumerable resorted but particularly the Noddy, but they were all too shy to be caught in the day time, we however made sure of some of them in the Night and also of some Turtle for which purpose parties were fixed.

Towards Noon Mr. Nelson returned supported by two people in a very weak and distressed condition. His complaint was a burning in his Bowels, a loss of sight, much drought & an incapacity to walk. This I immediately saw was owing to his not being able to support the heat of the sun, and that being a little fatigued and faint, instead of getting into the shade, he had continued to do more than he was able. It was a great happyness to me to see on their calling me in, that he had no fever, and it was now my medicine, the little wine that I had carefully saved, became of real use. I gave it him in very small quantities with some small pieces of bread soaked in it. The Fever kept off and he began to mend. The Boatswain and Carpenter also became ill & complained of Head Ach & Sickness at the stomach & others who had not yet had any evacuation by stool became shockingly distressed with the Tenusmus, so that I had but few now who were not complaining. Some one now mentioned that he imagined their illness was occasioned by eating of the Dollacus, when it spread like wild fire & those who were complaining thought themselves poisoned. Myself however and several others were yet very well, altho we had eat of them; but the truth was, all those except Mr. Nelson who were complaining, had gorged themselves with them raw, & Mr. Nelson told me he was made distracted by them, at being asked as every new berry appeared was found, if it was not fit to eat, so that he

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said he should not wonder if many of them were really poisoned. Our Dinner therefore was not so well relished as at Sunday Island because we had mixed the Dollacus with the stew, the bread, oysters & soop however was eat by every one except Mr. Nelson, who I gave a little Bread & Wine to, and also to the Boatswain and Carpenter, and being put under the shade they began to be better.

In my walk round the Island I found several Cocoanutt Shells, the remains of an old Wigwam and two Backs of Turtle, but no sign of any Quadruped. One of my people found three Sea Birds Eggs. As is common on such spots, the soil was little other than sand, yet it produced small Toa Trees and many other we were not acquainted with. There were some fish in the Lagoon, but we had no means to take them, as our wants therefore were not likely to be supplied, not even water for our daily expence. I told every one I would sail in the morning after trying our success in the Night for Turtle & Birds. A quick night’s rest also I conceived would be of essential service to those who were unwell.

From the Wigwam and Turtle shell being found it is to be believed the Natives resort to this place at certain times of the year, and it likewise established a fact that they have cannoes; but I considered I was running but little risk of remaining here, and I directed our fire to be hid among the thick bushes that we might not be discovered in the Night. At Noon I found it to be low water, and the latitude 11° 47’ S., Longitude 144° 24’ E. The Main extended as far as N.W. full of white Sand Hills, & an Isld. W. b. N. ¼ N. 3 leagues. I could see nothing of the Reef towards the Sea.

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Rems. Tuesdy. 2 June 1789, New Holland.

Strong Gales and squally Wr. some slight showers.

Boiled some Clams for tomorrow’s dinner & cut the rest up in slices for today. High Water at 5h. 30’. Full & Change 58’ past 10 in the morng. Gave the people who were unwell a little bread & wine and I was happy to find them much better.

Parties now went out to look for Turtle and catch Birds.

The Bird party returned with only 12 small Birds owing to the fault of one of the men going to hastily among them.

Mr. Samuel & Mr. Pickover returned from searching after Turtle, but did not get a sight of one.

Sailed with a Strong Breeze – Watch Stopt.

Came into much Sea as if here was no shelter from the Reefs without. Passed an extensive shoal & two sandy spots on it. At 8h. a small Isle N. ½ E. 3 or 4 leags. two others west abt. 4 miles. Apparently smoother & deeper water in shore. A Sandy Key East 3 miles. Fresh Breezes & fair Wr. A small Isld. N.E. 2 miles. A sandy spit E.N.E. 3 miles. An Isld. beyond it E. b. N. ½ N. 6 miles and the N. Westermost land seen from Lagoon Island & is a high Cape W. ¾ S. 3 leags. A low sandy Isle west 4 mls. & the extremes of the Coast from S. b. W. to N.W. ½ N. Dined on 6 Birds & an allowance of Bread w. 2 Jills Water.

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Rems.

Rest was now so much wanted by most of us that the afternoon was advantageously spent in sleep, but those who were not disposed, employed ourselves in dressing some Clams to take with us for tomorrow’s dinner, and others I had cut up in slices to dry, which I knew and foretold was the most valuable supply I expected to find here: But contrary to my expectations we have found them very scarce, and I do not, from the present situation we are in, imagine I shall be able to get collected two days Sea Store at a very spare allowance.

Towards evening I had cautioned every one not to make too large a fire, or to suffer it after dark to blaze up more than it was possible to prevent. Mr. Peckover & Mr. Samuels had therefore taken care of that matter while I was strolling about the beach to take notice if I thought it could be discovered from the Main; when suddenly the whole Key appeared in a blaze that might have been seen at a more considerable distance. I therefore ran to know the cause of such open violation to my orders, when I found all the grass set on fire, owing to the Master while I was away insisting on having a fire to himself, notwithstanding Mr. Peckover & Samuels had remonstrated with him, & told him of the consequence, & he knew my particular orders. This disobedience was of a very serious nature. I might have been seen by more Natives than at Indian bay as I past the Coast, & now being assured that we were on this Key, it only rested with them to come after us & we must inevitably have fallen a sacrifice, for even when all were in health I had not above 12 men who had either spirit or resolution to combat difficulty then. The relief I expected from a little sleep was totally lost & I

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anxiously looked for the flowing of the Tide to proceed to sea. After eight o’
clock Mr. Samuels and Mr. Peckover went off to watch for Turtle and three Men went to the East Key to endeavor to take some Birds, all the rest complaining of being sick took their rest, except Mr. Hayward & Elphinston who I order to be walking about as a watch. About 12 o’clock the Bird Party returned with only 12 Noddys, a Bird I have already described to be about nearly the size of a small Pidgeon; but if it had not been for the obstinacy of one of the Party, who seperating from the other two & putting the birds to flight, they might have caught a great number. Thus all my plans were totally defeated for which on the return of the offender (a) I gave him a good beating. I now went in search of my Turtling party who had taken every pains, but had met with no success. This however did not surprise me as I was convinced that no Turtle would come near us after the large Fire & noise that had been on the Key to put it out. I therefore desired them to come in, but they requested to stay an hour or two longer as they still hoped to find some before daylight: they however returned by 3 o’clock without any reward for their labour. The Birds I directed to be half drest which with the few Clams made the whole of my supply here. I tied up a few Gilt Buttons and Toeys on a Tree for any Natives that might come after me, & happily finding my Invalids much the better for their Night’s rest I got every one in the Boat and departed at Dawn of day.

(a) This fellow after we came to Java acknowledged he eat nine Birds raw while he was on the Isld. & had frighten’d the others away.

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I had scarce got two leagues to the northward when I suddenly fell into much sea which from not having experienced such a sudden transition since within the Reefs I consider it to be owing to an open channel to the Sea. Just at this time also I fell in with an extensive shoal which I imagine is detached from the Main reef. Four small Keys were in sight between which I passed on in my course to the northward all the main, full of Sand Hills interspersed with some green patches.

Towards Noon I feel in with 6 other small Sandy Keys, most of which produced Tropical Trees & Bushes which gave them a pretty appearance, some however were only sand. The Main now was Hilly and the northermost land that was seen from Lagoon Isld. appeared as Downs with several sloping clifts to the Sea. To the southd. of this is a flat Top Hill, wch. was called pudding pan Hill, & a little to the northward two others which were called the Paps, and here was 2 small track of country without Sand and forms a Cape which I make to be in the Latd. of 11° 18’ So. The Coast here inclines to the N.N.W. & the farthest I have in view terminates in a low point distant about 6 leagues. A low Sandy Island lies East of the Cape, and from that I have been able to observe a ship should keep the main aboard to keep free of shoals from the Reefs, but I have it not in my power to speak of the depth of water I pass over. At Noon I had a good observation. Divided 6 Birds for our Dinners & served 2 Jills of water wth. allowance of Bread. Gave Mr. Nelson a half a glass of Wine who is now quite recovered, & no longer comes under that indulgence. Unfortunately our watch stoped so that now I can only guess at time – it was belongg. to the Gunner.

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Rems. Wednesdy. June 3rd 1789, New Holland.

Fresh breezes and fair Wr.

The Cape I was abreast of at Noon now bore true South 6 or 7 leagues and the farthest part of the Coast to the Northd. N.W. b. W. low land with hillocks on it. At 5 an Inlet bore S.W. b. S. 6 miles.

At 5¾ came to a Grapnel off an Isld. 6 miles from the Main, the extrems. of which (a) bore from N.N.W. ½ W. 3 leagues to S.E. b. S. 6 or 7 leags. A mountainous Isld. with a flat Top N. b. W. 4 or 5 leags. and several others between it & the Main.

Parties went in search of supplies – found nothing but the remains of many Turtle that have been killed here.

At ½ past 5 sailed with a fresh Gale. Served 1/24 lb. Bread & a Jill of Water for breakfast.

Passing between Mountain Isld. with a flat Top & several others towards the Main dist. across 3 miles. Sound 12 fms. but got no ground.

Passed a Bay of Islds. & others to the Eastd. An Isld. in the North very mountainous with a very high round Hill & continued passing others both to the North & South. At Noon fresh Breezes & fair Wr. The Main high & woody. Wednesdy. Island E. b. S. 5 miles. Isles on the north from N.W. b. W. 4 or 5 leags. to N.E. 6 leags. & the West extreme of the Coast S.W. 2 or 3 leags. A reef from W. to N.Ed. one mile off.

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Rems.

As I stood to the northward I found more sea than I had done before: I of course considered it owing to less shelter from the Reefs to the eastward, and from whence we may reasonably conclude that here is not one continued barrier to prevent shiping having access to the shore. In some places I observed a little Wood. About 5 o’clock I had pass’d a large and fair inlet into which I imagine is a safe and commodious enterance. It lies in the latd. of 11° 00’ So. and about 3 leags. to the southward of an Isld., the only one near it. At this Island about a quarter before 6 I took shelter for the Night, under a sandy point, which was the only part we could land at; I was therefore under the necessity to put up with rather a wild situation, and on that account sleep in the Boat. Nevertheless I sent a party away to see what could be got; but they soon returned without any success. A great number of Turtle Bones and shells they found in heaps which the Natives had gathered up from the feasts they had had on the spot, and their last visit seemed to be of no late date. The Isle was covered with wood, but was little better than a lump of Rocks. Having got every one into the Boat again we lay at a grapnel untill daylight with a very fresh gale & cloudy Wr. This Island lies in Latitude 10° 52’ So. and 42’ west of Restoration Isle. Abreast of it the Coast appears as a Sandy Desert, but improves again about 3 leags. farther to the northward, where lie a number of Islands. I sailed between them, no ground at 12 fms., with a high mountainous Isld. with a flat top & four Rocks to the S.E. of it, on my starboard hand, & several others towards the Main on my larboard. Soon after an extensive opening appeared with a number of Islands in it

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which I called the Bay of Islands. I crossed this Bay steering to the N.W. – several Isles & Keys lay to the northward taking the direction of the Coast. The most northerly Island was the mountainous & had a very remarkable high round Hill, and a smaller Isle to the S.E. was remarkable for a single peaked Hill. The Coast to the northward and westward of the Bay of Islands had a very different look from that to the southward – it was high & had a great deal of wood on it, with Islands more considerable than we have seen before, and gives had a broken & rugged appearance. Among these Isles are fine bays & convenient places for shipping, the northermost I called Wednesdy. Isld., to the northward of which I fell in with a Reef which I am inclined to think joins a number of Keys from the N.W. to the N.E. To Noon I stood to the S.W. when I had a good observation, and Wednesdy. Isle bore E. b. S. 5 miles. I could see no land to the westward of S.W. on the South, or Isles to the westward of N.W. b. W. on the north. I therefore assured every one of being clear of New Holland in the afternoon.

It is impossible for me to say how far the reef I fell in with may extend – it may be a continuation or a detached part of the range of shoals that surround the whole Coast but be that as it may, I consider the mountainous Islands as seperate from those shoals, and towards those Isles, whatever passages for shipping there are; I have no doubt but there will be found the best. This however is of no moment whether I am right or wrong – the plan I intended to have executed in the Bounty I see no reason to lay aside at present, I shall therefore recommend it to any future Navigator that is to pass this Streight from the Eastward, to ex-[plore]

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[ex]-plore the Coast of New guinea, but I think in coming from the southward a person will find a fair streight in about the latitude of 10° 00’ So. In the deplorable situation I am in I would have endeavored to have determined this point if I had any Fire Arms; but any increase of trouble or fatigue I fear will be of too dangerous a tendency, I therefore declared my intention of passing on without delay. Sounding also would have given us trouble, I therefore lay’d it aside as I considered Captains Cook’s survey was sufficient; but I have made a sketch of the Coast as in that particular trouble was only to myself.

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Rems. Thursdy. 4th June 1789, New Holland.

Fair Wr. Dined on 6 oysters each person 1/24 lb. of Bread and a Jill of Water. At 2 came into shoal water and saw sand banks lying to the northwd. of the west part of the Main. At 4 the westermost Isle North 4 leags. A Key west. Extremes of the land from Wednesdy. Isle E. b. N. 5 to S.E. b. E. 2 leagues Shoal Cape.

At ½ past five at Booby Key – a barren Rock – the main bore E.S.E. to E. b. N. Served Water for Supper. I steered different course between Noon & 4 o’clock but a mean one is computed by my beargs. & only inserted.

Fresh Gale.

I consider Booby Key to be the same as seen by Captn. when he quitted the Coast.

Across going sea. Deep Water. Very wet and bailing. Served 1/24 lb. Bread & a Jill of Water for breakfast.

Fresh Breezes & fair Wr. dined on 6 oysters each person 1/24 lb. Bread & 2 Jills of water.

[Page 153]

Rems.

Having issued the allowance for dinner, I stood in towards the Main when I fell into shoal water owing to some sand Banks that lie along the Coast, I was therefore obliged to haul to the northward again, & having got round them, I steered for a Key in the West which by dusk I found to be a meer Rock, the resort of Boobies, and for that reason called it Booby Key. Here terminated any the Rocks and Shoals of the north part of New Holland for I could see no land to the westward of south after 3 o’clock. A small Key lies near to the west part of the Coast where the Sand banks are, which I have called Shoal Cape. This I take to be Captain Cook’s point possession; but I cannot determine any more than I can respecting any other part of the Coast; which upon the whole of my recollection is at all good, we differ very considerably in the general outline.

At 8 o’clock in the evening I was once again launched into the midst of an open ocean, miserable as we were, in every respect. On reflection I was secretly surprised to see it did not appear to affect anyone as a melancholy matter of necessity, on the contrary it seemed as if everyone had only embarked with me to proceed to Timor, & were in a vessel equally calculated for their safety & convenience – so much confidence gave me great satisfaction, and having given every hope that eight or ten days might restore us to a land of safety we prayed to God for a continuance of his most gracious protection and goodness towards us.

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I have been just six Days on the Coast of New Holland in the course of which time it is to be observed, oysters with a few Clams have been the only supply we met with besides water, indeed it was all I could possibly expect. But equal to this, perhaps we have benefited by having no fatigue in the Boat and good rest at night. With these advantages every one has certainly benefitted prolonged his life, and poor as the supply has been, I am sensible of the great good it has done, and has relieved my mind from many a distressing thought. It would have been about this time that human nature would have no longer been able to defend itself against hunger & extreme fatigue; several would have given up struggling with life that only insured wretchedness & misery, and those perhaps possessed of more bodily strength would on such a sight soon have followed their miserable and unfortunate companions, for in these situations when nature begins to give way the fall is sudden. We struggle, and notwithstanding we are such reduced Beings horrible to be beheld, yet while any fortitude and spirits remains we drag on. This is our present situation – a week may make a dreadfull change among us; but I hope that the idea of the end of our misery being so near at hand will yet enable me to land every one safe at Timor.

For my own part wonderfull is it for me to relate I feel no extreme hunger or thirst – my allowance satisfies me (knowing I can have no more) equal to a full meal. This perhaps does not admit me of to be a proper judge on a story of miserable people like us being at last drove to the necessity of destroying one another for food, but if I

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may be allowed, I deny the fact in its greatest extent. I say I do not believe that among us such a thing could happen, but death through famine would be received as from any violent disease.

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Rems. Friday 5th June 1789 towards Timor.

Fair Wr. and less sea.

Saw several small water snakes spotted ringed yellow and black.

Served a jill of water for supper. I was asked for Bread, but I was not yet far enough advanced to judge of my passage to grant it. At which there were some murmurings by the Master & Carpenter, Simpson & Linkletter.

Shower of Rain.

Fair Wr. and a Strong Trade. Constantly bailing.

Saw water snakes, Rock Weed, and Flying Fish.

D. Wr. Served 1/24 lb. Bread and a jill of water for Dinner with 6 oysters each person.

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Rems. Saturday 6th June 1789.

Fine Wr. and a strong Trade, constantly bailing. I now determined to fall in with Timor between the latd. of 9° 30’ and 10° 00’ S.

Caught a Booby. Divided the blood between three who were most in want. Served a jill of water to each person and I directed the Bird to be kept for dinner.

Constantly shiping water & bailing.

Cloudy and showers. Very cold & shivering. Found some of the Clams, I had hung up to dry for sea store, stolen, but everyone sacredly denied it. Served 1/24 lb. Bread & water for Breakfast.

Saw a Sand Lark – a Gannet – Water Snakes.

Cloudy with fair intervals. I cut the Bird up in 18 parts & divided it according to the usual way of, “who shall have this?" I gave 1/24 lb. of Bread also & a jill of water.

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Rems. Sunday 7th June 1789. Towards Timor.

Fresh Breezes and fair Wr. I this afternoon examined my store of Bread and found 19 Days allowance according to my former issues of 1/24 of a lb. three times a day to each person. I therefore told every one that they should now have their allowance as usual for supper.

Fresh Gale constantly bailing.

Much Sea.

Cold & Wet.

Heavy complaints of distress.

Served 1/24 lb. Bread & water for Breakfast. Many Tropic Gulls – Sheerwaters & Flying fish.

Fresh Gales & squally with much sea from the S.E. Served 1/24 lb. Bread & water for Dinner & Clams. Steered W.N.W. to prevent us from shipping so much Sea.

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Rems. Monday 8th June 1789. Towards Timor.

Fresh Gales and squally with much Sea. Ship a great deal of water & are constantly wet and bailing, and I see with much concern, the Surgeon Mr. Ledward, & Lawrence Lebogue an old hardy seaman giving way very fast.

Served 1/24 lb. Bread, and water for Supper.

Very wet & Cold. Gave a little wine to the Surgeon & the Seaman.

Squally with showers. Served 1/24 lb. Bread & jill of water as usual.

Gannets – Tropic Gulls, and Flying Fish.

Mode. with showers & fair Intervals. Served 1/24 lb. Bread & water for Dinner. I now observe a more than common inclination among my people to sleep, a symptom of nature being almost reduced to its last effort.

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Rems. Tuesdy. 9th June 1789 towards Timor.

Mod. with some showers and fair intervals.

Caught a small Dolphin. I issued about 2 ozs. to each man including the offals & directed the remainder to be kept for tomorrow’s dinner.

Fresh Gale shipping much water & constantly bailing.

Very wet & Cold. Served the Surgeon & L. Lebogue a little wine. Miserable complaints. Served Bread & water for Breakfast as before. Gannets, Boobies, Men of War Birds and Tropic Gulls.

Fine Wr. and a Fresh Gale. Shipping much water & bailing, but it is a blessing that we are going on so rapidly.

Served 1/24 lb. Bread & water with the remainder of the Dolphin wch. amount’d to an oz. per man.

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Rems. Wednesdy. 20th June 1789 towards Timor.

Fresh Gale and fine Wr. I suffered great sickness this afternoon from the oily nature of part of the stomach of the Fish which has fallen to my lot. Much sea. Birds as yesterday.

Served 1/24 lbs. Bread & a jill of water for Supper. Constantly wet & bailing.

Very Wet & Cold.

Very Wet & Cold – miserable complaints.

Served 1/24 lb. of Bread & a jill of water for Breakfast. Birds as yesterday.

Strong Trade & much Sea. Constantly bailing. Served 1/24 lb. Bread & water for Dinner. A great lassitude & hollowness in the Eyes begin now to appear with more than half my People.

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Rems. Thursdy. 11th June 1789 towards Timor.

Strong Trade and fair Wr. much Sea, constantly bailing. Many Gannets & Boobies.

Served 1/24 lb. Bread and a jill of water for supper.

Miserably wet & Cold.

Saw pieces of Rock Weed & Gannets.

Served 1/24 lb. Bread & a jill of water for Breakfast & wrung and dryed our wet Cloaths. Served the Surgeon & Lawrence Lebogue a little wine.

Mod. and fine Wr. but remarkably hazy. Served 1/24 lb. Bread & a jill of water or two for dinner. People begin to appear very much on the decline. Lawrence Lebogue & the Surgeon cannot live a week longer if I do not get relief.

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Rems.

An extreme weakness, swell’d Legs, hollow and gastly countenances, great propensity to sleep, and an apparent debility of understanding; give me melancholy proofs of an approaching disolution of some of my People if I cannot get to land in the course of a few Days. This is the 8th day from New Holland and from meeting with Weed & Gannets I hope to fall in with Timor every hour. The Surgeon & Lawrence Lebogue are indeed miserable objects. I issue them a few teaspoonsfull of wine out of the little I have remaining, which seems to help, & may secure their existence as long as it lasts. For my own part a great share of animal spirits seems to be my principal support, but Mr. Cole the Boatswain very innocently told me today that he really thought I looked worse than anyone in the Boat; the simplicity however with which he uttered such an opinion diverted me, and I had good humour enough to return him a better compliment.

I consider the East part of Timor in about 128° 00’ E. My account therefore at Noon does not make me above 33 leagues from it & has given great joy to every on my declaring it.

[Page 164]

Rems. Friday 12th June 1789. Towards Timor.

Fine Wr. but exceedingly hazy.

Gannets & many Tropic Gulls. Caught a Booby by hand which I ordered to be kept for Dinner.

Issued 1/24 lb. of Bread, and two jills of water to each person. I hourly expect to fall in wth. Timor & had a most anxious look out.

With an excess of joy we discovered Timor bearing W.N.W. to W.S.W. Hauled the wind. At Day light Timor from S.W. b. S. 9 leags. low land to N.E. ½ N. 7 leagues interior part mountainous. At 7 coast opening to the southd. with the low land at S.W. Bore away.

Very Hazy Wr. The extremes of Timor from S.W. b. W. 5 leagues to N.E. b. N. 6 leagues, and the low land set at daylight N. b. W. 3 Miles.

High headlands opened with [indecipherable] southd. as set at 8h. S.W. ½ W.

Fresh breezes & hazy. The low land seen at daylight is now the east extreme bearg. N.N.W. ½ E. 4 leags. The southn. extre; set at 8 Hours, N. b. E. ½ E. 3 Miles & the southermost land in sight S.W. ½ W. 5 leagues. Land mountainous & woody.

Rems.
The lat. may not be very exact on acct. of the depression of the horizon.

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Rems.

It is not possible for me to describe the joy that the blessing of seeing the land diffused among us – indeed it is scarce within the scope of belief that in 41 Days I could be on the Coast of Timor, in which time we have run by our Log 3618 miles which on an average is 90 miles per Day.

I have before mentioned I knew not at what part of the Island the Governor resided, at and I am still at a loss. My falling in with the S.E. part of the Island however gives me relief in determining a point, of which side of the Isld. to rundown; which if I had been situated to have taken either one or the other, would have embarassed me; for if I run to leeward of my port I despair of getting back to it again, but I have a presentment that the Dutch settlement is at the S.W. part of the Island.

The Day gave us an agreeable prospect of the land which was interspersed with woods & Lawns. The interior parts mountainous but the shore low. Some parts appeared like Gentlemen’s Seats.

Towards Noon the Coast became higher, and we were highly delighted with the general look of the Country, which exhibited cultivated spots and many beautifull situations. We could only see small habitations, and I concluded that no European resided at this part of the Island. Much Sea run on the shore & no landing for Boats. Saw large mouths of Rivers.

At Noon I divided the Booby in 18 parcels as usual & wth. 1/24 lb. Bread & a jill of water, or two, to those who wanted it we made our Dinner. Gave a little wine to the Surgeon & Lebogue. The Master troublesome because I would not serve the Booby at Breakfast.

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Rems. Saturday 13th June 1789 – Timor

Fair Wr. and hazy with Mod. Winds.

The southermost point of land in sight W. b. S. 4 Miles but could see high land over it at a distance in the same direction. A High Cape Land bore N.E. ¾ E. and is the S.E. Cape of this Island. My distance off shore 2 Miles.

At Sunset the extremes from W. b. S. ½ S. 6 leags. to East 5 Miles off shore 1½ Mile. Served 1/24 lb. Bread and water for Supper.

At 6 hove too under the Fore Sail for the night lest I might pass any settlement.

At 2 wore & hove too head in shore.

Strong Gale & squally. Served bread & water for Breakfast. At 6 I found I had drifted about W. b. S. 3 leagues. Made sail. Land opening at west with the west extreme set last night.

The west extreme at set at 8h. last Night N.W. 2 miles & westermost land in sight W. ½ S. A weather current and much sea.

Saw mountainous land S.W. 6 or 7 leags. to S.W. b. W. ½ W., I believe an Island.

Fresh Gales & very hazy Wr. The Isld. as before & the westermost part of the main in sight W. b. S. ½ S. 3 leagues. No observn. A half mile from the shore. Served Bread & water for Dinner as usual.

Rems.
Latitude this Noon redd. back 10° 20’ So.

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Rems.

This afternoon I continued my course along a low woody shore with innumerable Thatch or Fan Palm Trees which were taken for Cocoa Nutt. I saw no signs of cultivation either here or in the mountains or did the land bear so fine an appearance as it had done before towards the S.E. Cape which at this time was very conspicuous; but at Sun down the Country improved again, & I saw some smoke like clearing Grounds. From where the Coast begins to be low it is shoal water, and a ship after passing the S.E. Cape must be very cautious, but I can only speak from appearances.

At sun set I was west 5 miles of a low point which had been seen as the southermost land in the afternoon. The Coast here formed a deep bend, with low land in the Bight I conceived was Islands & the west shore was the distant land seen at 4 o’clock. I remark particularly this situation, because here, the very high Ridge of mountains that run from the East end of the Island terminate & the eye is abruptly effected with a sudden change of Country. It however continues to be high land.

That I might commit no blunder in the night by running past any settlement, I determined to preserve my station untill the morning, and therefore hove to under the Fore Sail close reefed, with which the Boat performed wonderfully well, and haveg. served 1/24 lb. of Bread & water for our Supper, the conversation was on the expected supplies to be met with the next day.

At daylight after examining the Coast I found we had farther to go in search of a Settlement

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and therefore bore away with a Strong Gale along a high shore covered with wood but no signs of cultivation. Low land now again began to appear as points opening at West, I therefore considered myself on the southn. part of the Island.

At 10 o’clock I saw High land from S.W. to S.W. b. W. ½ W. and the Coast I was on as far as W. b. S. ½ S.; but the weather was so excessively hazy that I became doubtfull of the two lands being separated, the opening if any only extending one point of the compass at the distance of 6 leagues. I therefore stood towards the outer land to determine whether it was part of Timor or an Island and found it to be the latter. The Master now led the Carpenter to join him in a murmur, that I kept them from landing, and that we had left a probable place to have got supplies. I therefore after giving the Master a severe reprimand & telling him that he would be dangerously troublesome if it was not for his ignorance & want of resolution; I assured them I would give an opportunity to land on the very place. For this purpose I stood back on a wind into a Bay & came to a grapnel & gave the Master & Carpenter leave to land, but neither of these chose to venture out, altho smokes were seen of clearing grounds, which as I saw could only be by Malays; I would not suffer any others to go, who ever had been too obedient to disobey my orders. I lost not a moment here any more than to calculate my situation, and steering

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along shore I had a view of a pretty looking country as if formed by art into Lawns & Parks. The shore is all low land covered with wood, among which are innumerable Fan Palm Trees that look like Cocoanutt Walks. The interior parts are high land, but very different from the more eastern part of the Island where it is exceedingly mountainous & apparently better land.

The southermost land at Noon of Timor lies in latd. 10° 23’ So.

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Rems. Sundy. 14 June 1789 at Timor.

Strong Gales and very hazy Wr. and a high dangerous breaking sea.

Came to a grapnel (on the west end of Timor) in the entrance of large Inlet in a bay on the east side, from whence the Islands without bore S. b. W. ½ W. to S.W. ½ W. 5 leags. The S. West point of the entrance W. ½ S. 3 miles and the south east point S. b. W. ¾ mile. Mod. & fair Wr.

Saw a Dog & some Cattle. Sent the Boatswain & Gunner in search of inhabitants. At 4 they returned with some Melay [Malay] Men, one of whom agreed to show me where the Governor resided, who he called Bassar, & the Place Coupang [Kupang]. At ½ past 4 left this place & kept the east side of the Bay on board, sailing & rowing wth. light airs. At 10 came to a Grapnel. Light airs. At 1 o’clock weighed & pulled along the East & South Shore & found the land I had been passing on the West to be an Island, we being now open to the sea. No ground at 10 fms.

At day dawn came to a Grapnel under the Fort of Coupang & hoisted a small Tack we had made in the main shrouds as a signal of distress.

At 6 I had leave to land.

At 9 I got everyone on shore.

Mod. & Fair Wr. Found lying on the Road one large ship a Snow & a Dutch Cutter. Got the Boat hauled into the River.

Mean course from 4 to 10 p.m. N.E. b. E. – 8.
Mean course from 1 to 5 a.m. E.N.E. – 5.

Rems.
Latd. obsd. is from obsn. while on shore.

[Page 171]

Remarks

At 2 o’clock this afternoon after having run through a very dangerous sea the cause of which I attributed to a Strong Tide & Shoal Waters, we discovered a spacious Bay or Sound with a fair entrance of full 3 miles wide. I now conceived hopes our voyage was nearly at an end, as no place could appear more elligible for shipping, and of course likely to be the Dutch Settlement. I therefore bore up & came to a Grapnel on the East side of the enterance in a small sandy Bay, where we saw a Hut, a Dog & some Cattle. In order to discover some Inhabitants I sent the Boatswain & Gunner to the Hut.

While I lay here I found the tide of Ebb tide to come from the northward, & before I came away showed a dangerous Rocky Reef about 2 Cables length which from the shore that took the direction of all this side of the entrance, and the whole being covered at high water makes it dangerous to any one unacquainted. On the west side also appeared very high breakers, but here is nevertheless plenty of Room, & most certainly a very safe passage.

The Bay or Sound within, is of considerable extent, the northern part which I have now in view being full 5 leagues off. Here the land makes in moderate risings, joined by lower grounds. But the Islands which lie to the southward is the best of marks to know this place by, and are certainly the Island Rotto and other smaller ones about it.

I had just time to make these remarks, when we discovered the Boatswain & Gunner returning with some Malays; no one therefore doubted of our success, and

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our most sanguine expectations and wishes were fully gratified. They brought five Malay men with them & informed one they had found two families where the women treated them with European politeness, and that the man has given them to understand by signs, that the Governor resided at some distance to the N.E. Their intercourse with the Dutch did not remain a doubt to me, a moment, but I could only make out Bassar & Coupang, the former I understood to be the Governor’s name & the latter his residence. I now made signs for one of them to go in the Boat & show me the way to Coupang, intimating that I would pay money for this trouble, when the man readily complied & came into the Boat. These People were of a very dark tawny complexion with long black hair, chewed a great deal of Beatle, wore a squre piece of foreign cloth round their Hips, in the folds of which was stuck a large knife, and round their Heads a Handkerchief. On their shoulders they had another Handkerchief tied by the four corners which constituted a Bag for their Beatle Equipage.

The only thing they brought us was a few dried pieces of Turtle that were not eatable being so hard, and a few ears of Indian Corn, this last was a treasure to us, & had I staid they would have brought us something more, but as the Man was willing I was determined to push on, and therefore sailed at a half past four.

By the directions of our pilot I kept the east shore

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on board, but as night came on the wind dyed away & we were obliged to try at the oars which I was surprised to find we could do with some effect. However at 10 o’clock as I found we got but little or nothing ahead, I came to a Grapnel, & for the first time issued a large allowance of Bread & a little wine.

At 1 o’clock in the morning after the most happy & sweetest sleep that ever men had, I again weighed & continued to keep the east shore on board in very smooth water, when at last I found we were again open to the Sea, the whole of the land to the westward of me being a large Isld. which the Pilot calls Pulo Samow [Pulau Semau]. In this southern enterance it is about 1½ or 2 miles across. No ground at 10 fms. The whole part that appeared to me as a Harbour may have too deep water for Anchorage except near the shores.

Hearing two Cannon fired gave new life to us, and at before daybreak we discovered two square rigged vessels & a Cutter laying at anchor. About 4 o’clock I brought to a Grapnel and gave another allowance of bread & wine to all hands, and being refreshed, we again rowed untill an half hour before day, when I came to grapnel off a small Town & Fort which the Pilot called Coupang.

When the Boatswain left the ship, he brought with him a bundle of Signal Flags which I had made for Boats to show me the depths of water in sounding. These I had, in the course of this miserable voyage, converted into a small Tack which I now hoisted in the main shrouds as a signal of distress, for I did not for very evident reasons choose to land without leave. Soon after daybreak I was permitted

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on shore where I met with an English Sailor who belonged to the ship in the Road. His Captain he told me was the 2nd person in the place. I therefore desired him to conduct me to him, as I found the Governor was Ill & could not just now be spoke with.

Captain Spikerman received me with great humanity and goodness, & being informed of my miserable situation, I requested that I might have assistance, and that care might be taken of my People without delay. He therefore gave directions for their immediate victualling in his own House, & went himself to the Governor to know at what time I could be permitted to see him, which was fixed on at 11 o’clock.

I now desired everyone to come on shore, which was as much as some of them could do, being scarce able to walk, they however got at last to the House where was Tea with Bread & Butter, ready for their Breakfast. The abilities of the most emminent Artist perhaps could never have more brilliantly shone than in a delineation of two Group of Figures that now presented themselves, and at where one might be so much at a loss to know wch. most to admire, whether the Eyes of Famine sparkling at immediate relief, or their Preservers horror struck at the Spectors of Men. For anyone to conceive the Picture of such poor miserable Beings, let him fancy that

[Page 175]

in his House he is in the moment of giving relief to 18 Men, whose ghastly countenances, (but from the known cause), would be equally liable to affright as demand pity; let him view their limbs full of sores, and their Bodies nothing but skin and bones habited in Rags; and at last let him conceive he sees the tears of joy and gratitude flowing over their cheeks at their benefactors. With the mixture of horror, surprise & pity that his mind will be then agitated, were the People of Timor, on giving us relief.

The Governor Mr. Wm. Adriaan Van Este, notwithstanding extreme ill health, became so anxious to give us relief, that I saw him before the appointed time. He received me with great affection, and gave demonstrative proof of being possessed of every feeling of a humane and good Man, sorry as he was, he said, that such a calamity could ever have happened to me, yet he considered it as the greatest blessing of his life that I had fallen under his protection, and altho his infirmity was so great that he could not do the office of a Friend himself, yet he would issue such orders as I might be certain would cause me to effect every supply I wanted: in the meantime a House was hired for me, & untill matters could be properly regulated, he said he would order victuals for everyone to be drest at his House. With respect to my people he said I might have room for them either at the Hospital or on board of Captn. Spikerman’s Ship which lay in the Road, and expressed much uneasyness that Coupang could not give them better accommodation; the House I was to have being the only one in the Town uninhabited, & the situation of the few families were such that they could not accommodate

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any one. These things I had therefore to consider of. I was however more disposed to talk of busyness than this Gentleman, whose feelings tortured him with my extreme wants & distress; to relieve which, an ellegant repast was put before me as the custom of the country, more than through design to alleviate my hunger, so that in this instance he happily blended in common politeness, the greatest favor I could receive.

On my return to my people I found every kind relief the Surgeon had been given to them. The Surgeon had dressed their sores, and the cleaning of their persons had not been less attended to, with several friendly gifts of apparel.

I now desired to be shown to the House that was intended for me, and I found it ready with servants to attend; and a particular one wch. the Governor directed to be always about my person. The House consisted of a Hall with a Room at each end and a loft overhead, and all round a Piazza, with an outer appartment in one Corner, and a communication from the back part of the House to the street. I therefore determined instead of letting my People to be out of my sight, to take them all with me, and I instantly divided the House as follows. One Room I took to myself and the other I allotted to the Master, Doctor, Mr. Nelson & Peckover. The Loft to the other Officers, and the outer appartment to the Men. The Hall was common to all the officers, & the men had the back Piazza. Of this I informed the Governor, & he sent down Tables, Chairs, Benches & other necessaries Quilts for the use of every one; but Beds were not to be got here, so that one coverlid was bed & bedding.

[Page 177]

I had promised the Governor on my leaving him (as it was his particular request) that he should be acquainted with every thing that I stood in want of; but I now found it was only at particular times that he had a few moments of ease and could attend to any thing, being in a dying state with an incurable fistula. For this reason all my transactions of busyness I found would be with a Mr. Timotheus Wanjon (the second of this place, who is married to the Governor’s Daughter) who now also was contributing every way in his power to make our situation happy & agreeable. I therefore was misinformed, that Capt. Spikerman was Second of this Place.

At Noon a very handsome Dinner was brought to the House, which was sufficient to make a person more accustomed to plenty, to eat too much. Cautions therefore on that head may be imagined to have had but little effect among such as we were, but I must say, that I believe few People could observe more moderation. The greatest danger I had to fear was eating of fruit which could be got by them about the Town. Having now seen every one fed, I dined with Mr. Wanjon, but I found no extraordinary inclination to eat or drink, or did I find my stomach able to bear any thing, altho every thought article was most kindly thought of that was fit for me to make use of. Rest and quietness I considered the most necessary ingredient to my doing well, and I therefore retired to my Room which I found furnished with every convenience. But

[Page 178]

instead of Rest I found my mind more disposed to reflect on the sufferings I had gone through; of the failure of my expedition; but above all, of the thanks due to Almighty God who had given me power to support & bear such heavy calamities, and to enable me at last to be the means of saving 18 Lives which would never otherwise have been heard of.

My situation as a Commander became burthened with more than mere bodily distresses, for besides what will readily be understood (with respect to me) such as directing and pointing out the route we were to go, I had to oblige everyone to drag on a lingering life with a miserable allowance of support, and to find repeatedly the melancholy request of, “Give us a little more Bread" waring against a necessary refusal resolution of refusal. This I so sacredly stuck to, that I brought eleven days allowance in with me; it is therefore evident that the least degree of inattention or want of Care in the distribution of this article, would have put an end to our existence; but from a strict adherence to the agreement we set out with, it is equally certain, if I had miss’d Timor I could have pursued my voyage to Java, where at Passourwang or Sourabya [also spelt Surabaya] I knew I could get every thing I wanted.

Among the many melancholy circumstances also

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that attend a Commander in my late situation is the caprice and Ideas of ignorant People. Voraciousness had I been incapable of acting, would have carried the Boat on shore as soon as I made the Island, without considering or knowing that landing among the Malays might be as bad as among any other Indians. But exclusive of the fatigue of the mind, to reflect on what we have in common undergone I appear to be contemplating a Dream, rather than a Reality with with the proofs staring me in the Face.

When I consider how providentially our lives were saved at Tofoa by the Indians delaying their attack, and that with scarce any thing for 48 Days to support life, we have cross’d a sea of more than 1200 leagues without shelter from the inclemency, or protection from the evils of the climate; when I reflect how natural it was to be expected, that disease might have taken most of us off, besides the great probability of founding at sea; and when I view the great good fortune we have had to pass the unfriendly Indians Natives of other Countries without accident, and at last happily to meet with the most friendly and best of People to relieve our distresses; it calls up a distracted mind of astonishment, and most humble gratitude to Almighty God for his gracious protection. Through such blessings only, could

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I bear with the failure of an expedition on which I had so much set my mind; had completed so far with such extraordinary success; and to which my King and the Honourable Promoters of so great & extensive a charity I consider are regarding with great satisfaction & pleasure.

With respect to our own endeavours to preserve health during a course of 16 Days heavy and almost continual Rains, I could only recommend pulling our Cloaths off and wringing them through salt water which had a comfortable effect like dry Cloaths. The same mode we adopted when wet by the sea, but we at last wrung all our Cloaths to pieces, for except the few Days on the Coast of New Holland, there never was any Person but was wet with Rain or Sea.

Thus happily ended through the assistance of divine providence, without accident, a voyage of the most extraordinary nature that ever happened in the world, let it be taken in its extent, duration & so much want of the necessaries of life.

What is also a most providential circumstance is, as Mr. Van Este informed me, that I determined to come on the south side of Timor, for had I gone on the North I should most likely have put into some Portuguese Settlement where is nothing but poverty & distress and where I should have met wth. little mercy or compassion, so that gracious providence has protected me to the last.

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The following Diary will be kept according to Civil Account beginning the day at midnight.

Rems. at Coupang in Timor, Monday 15th 1789, June.

Fair Wr. with light land winds at Night and Strong Sea Breezes from E.S.E. & S.E. from 9 in the Morning to 3 in the Afternoon.

Altho the Night was passed happily different from any we had at sea, yet we found ourselves very little refreshed, a circumstance which often happens to People when extremely fatigued; but to add to this perhaps we may attribute the sleeping without Beds as an additional cause. The few People that are here have only Beds for themselves, I therefore only got a neat Bedsted, with two Quilts for a Matrass & a counterpane from the Governor, whose goodness I am sure would have done more for my convenience and sore bones, if Beds were to be had. The officers and men were mostly obliged to make Guard Beds with what came with us which however I might not expect, was thought of no moment among the People here.

As I went through some fatigue yesterday in arranging matters for the comfort and reception of those who were with me, it was now producing some ill effects which it was necessary to guard against, a slight Fever however with severe head ach were the

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most alarming symptoms. Everyone complained of a want of evacuation by stool; Tenesmus became extreme, and the excrutiating torture from not being able to void the fecis perhaps was more than ever experienced in the world. Vast weakness succeeded this with gripings & cholick complaints, besides swelled Legs and irritated sores that we had got at Tofoa, so that not a Person but what was under the Island Doctor’s care. This Gentleman recommended as the best Physician, to eat moderately & abstain from fruit untill the stomach had acquired its usual tone; but some already had begun to completely satisfy their appetite which produced very severe cholick complaints or rather uncommon pains in the Bowels.

At Noon a very plentifull and good dinner was sent to the House, and as I was confined by a severe indisposition every thing was thought of that could be of service to me.

I find the Europeans of this Place are

Wm. Adriaan Van Este – Koopeman & Operhoifd [Opperhoofd] – Governor
Fruy – Secretary
Max – Surgeon & Apothecary
Timotheus Wanjon – Secunde in Rank – 2 Govr.
Van Ess – Merchant
Temminck – Curate or Clerk
An Ensign & 30 Soldiers, Mr. Gans
A Surgeons Mate
A few others of no Notr.

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The rest of the inhabitants are Malays & Chinese.

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Rems. in Coupang 16th June 1789.

Fine Wr. with light Winds at Night and Strong Winds S.E.ly in the day.

Gripings & vomitting were the complaints among us at this time. Myself became attacked with a Fever & could keep nothing on my stomach. Every thing was thought of by Mr. Van Este & Mr. Wanjon that could be of any service, and the Doctor Mr. Max and his second attended us with vast kindness and attention. I found great relief from keeping my legs in warm water about an half hour every evening. Those who were able were ordered to bath every morning before sun rise in a fine Fresh Water River, & to every one gentle exercise was recommended in the cool of the day, and I therefore ordered every one to attend at the Doctors at his time of busyness at the Hospital.

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Rems. 17th & 18th June 1789

Fine Wr. with Land & Sea Breezes as on the 16th.

Every one continues very weak and subject to the same complaints as before which are in a great measure owing to eating too much. I am still confined with a Fever. I received a message today from Mr. Van Este informing me he was suffering such extreme torture & was reduced so low that it was out of his Power to see me. Mr. Wanjon was however ready to render me any service.

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Rems. at Coupang, Friday 19th June 1789.

Fair Wr. wth. Land & Sea Breezes wth. Calms.

Every person is now begining to recover except myself. Great weakness and Fever still hangs about me which keeps me confined. A little Sago is the only thing my stomach will bear.

Cold Meat or Fish with rice, for Breakfast, Broth & Boullie & other meat stewed or variously dressed for dinner – and nearly the same for supper is the common way that every one is fed.

Notwithstanding the happy situation every one is in yet they cannot agree. The Carpenter Wm. Purcell a refractory and troublesome Fellow behaved mutinously. I had ordered some Chalk which he had in the Boat to be given out for the use of Mr. Van Este which he refused to do & told me I had no right to it. I therefore sent him on board of C. Spikerman’s Ship lying in the Road & also Peter Linkletter who had likewise behaved ill.

I ordered every one to be supplied today wth. slops, such as could be got at this place; but all are at a great price, at least one hundred percent dearer than at Batavia. Their situation however made it necessary to take them at any price.

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Rems. Saturday & Sunday 20th & 21st July [June] 1789

Wind & Weather as yesterday & a charming free air.

Myself and some others still continue very weak but upon the whole the generality of us are gathering strength very fast.

I receive the kindest enquiries from Mr. Van Este how we are going on, and the most constant personal attention from Mr. Wanjon. A genteel Table is always kept for me, and every person is fed in a plentifull manner.

On Sunday morning for the first time I found myself able to go out, I therefore directed every one to go to Church where I attended to return thanks to Almighty God for his late gracious protection & preservation of our lives. The Chappel is exceedingly neat and the congregation consisted of about 50 person most of whom were Malays.

In general the Malay language is spoken here, & the Church service in the afternoon is always read by a Malay.

The peculiar civility of Mr. Wanjon obliged me to dine with him today, and through him, as Mr. Van Este’s extreme ill health renders him incapable, I am to transact all busyness – unfortunately.

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Rems. at Coupang Monday June 22nd 1789

Mode. & Fine pleast. Wr. Wind E.S.E., Calm in the Night.

I began today to feel my health returning to me and my living is changed to a use of more solids. Some of my Company are become unwell from having eaten too much. The sore Feet & Legs of several are troublesome to heal, they are however getting tolerably on & begin to loose their ghastly & meagre countenances.

The Governor having given me the use of a Horse induced me to take a small Ride into the country which I found to be very rocky, a shallow burnt up soil, and but few places with or fit for any kind of cultivation. The Roads or more properly beaten paths are very bad, being very rocky & encumbered with Bushes.
One Mile and a half along the seaside to the northward of the Town is a pretty spot of Garden ground called Owar, the property of Mr. Wanjon who uses it as a country residence. The Cocoa Nutt Trees grow very luxuriantly and the fruit large, of which they make but little use than for oil. Other fine fruits & peculiarities of this Country are here; but as a Kitchen Garden there was but little in it worth notice. The Trees wch. produce the Beetle [Betel] Nut, grow called Peenang, grow luxuriantly here, they appear to me to be exactly like that we call the Mountain Cabbage Tree in the West Indies, wch. Mr. Nelson could not ascertain, as wth. the latter

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he told me he was not acquainted. The Fruit which is the size of a nutmeg & not unlike it, is coated like the Cocoa Nutt, and they grow in bunches from the Tree where the soft green part of the Top begins.

Several very extraordinary & curious Trees were here also, of that Genus that increase their Fruits and roots by shooting out long strings which on reaching the ground take Root, & by degrees connect with one another & make a compact body of an incredible size. With a small degree of Art one of these Trees might be made to spread an acre of ground with most romantick & luscious archways. I saw 2 Breadfruit Trees but no Fruit on them.

This Pretty spot is finely watered by a natural Fountain & has a small fish Pond with many fine Carp in it.

The sea shore is formed by sandy Bays and low Rocky heads, and at low water in some places gives a half mile of flat rocky ground where Dams are made to catch Fish.

I saw in my road to Owar several Malay graves. These People I find perform some peculiar Rights to the deceased as on some of the graves I saw small baskets with Tobacco & Beetle.

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Rems. at Coupang Tuesdy. June 23rd 1789

Fair Wr. with light E.S.E. Winds.

It was a matter at first of great concern to me that neither Mr. Van Este or Mr. Wanjon spoke English or French, but fortunately there happened to be a gentleman (who had come from Batvia [Batavia]) of the Faculty to endeavor to render some service to Mr. Van Este, who spoke English very well; to him (Mr. Hendrick Arnold Daniel Bertz) I apply on all occasions, when I have any busyness to transact and he readily renders us every service in that way.

I find this is the only settlement of the Dutch on this Island. It was formerly, I am told, a place of Plenty and a tolerable Trade, but that at present every thing is scarce & very dear. Their Trade was Bees Wax & Sandle Wood. At this time only one Ship is sent here by the Company, and is with some difficulty loaded. and The Island they assert is almost robb’d of all its Sandle Wood, yet a large Brig and a Sloop find it worth their while to Trade here under Private Merchants, altho the Company cannot make much of it.

The scarcity of every thing here induced me to come to an agreement to pay for every one except myself for Board & Lodgings at the rate of 36 stivers pr. day & for myself 2½ Rix Dolls. pr. Day as I found this would be more advantageous than any other way of proceeding.

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Rems. at Coupang Wedny. & Thursdy. 24th & 25th June 1789.

Fine pleasant Wr. with light Eastly Winds, wth. Calms in the Night or land breezes.

Several beside myself continue in a very bleak state but as we are supplied with every nourishing article that is necessary there is little doubt of our doing well.

This is not the time of year for abundance of Fruit, there are however some in season. I had sent me some very fine anonas or the Custard apple of Jamaica and a few Pomegranates. The Otaheiteans have a fruit they call Nona, but it is as unpleasant as the custard apple is agreeable.

The Governor notwithstanding is ill health and extreme pain which he suffers in general, had a trifling intermition this evening by which means I had the pleasure of seeing him by invitation, so peculiarly anxious is he to know if I have every thing as it should be, altho at the same time he is sensible of Mr. Wanjon’s great attention to all my wants.

In speaking of the scarcity of Provisions I was told the cause of it in part was occasioned by a War among the Natives which took place in 1786 & lasted untill 1788. The Chief of the Island has, given him by the Dutch, the Title of Keyser or Emperor and his Malay subjects being numerous he is of course of consequence among the

[Page 192]

Europeans. Besides this Man, there are some others who from the Power they possess are dangerous subjects to the Emperor, so that the seeds of discord being sown they followed up their design of revolution, & openly brought forward a usurper who was Nephew to the present Emperor.

The only settlement the Dutch have is at this place if we except a few People who are dispersed about the Country as residents to regulate any little busyness that may occur. A Post and Garrison is therefore established here which mounts 30 Pieces of Cannon from 9 to 2 Pounders but is only calculated as a secure retreat for the Europeans in case of an insurrection. The Troops now here are 30 under the Command of an Ensign.

There are still some Portugese on the Island and The Bastard Tribe are numerous under a Governor on the north side of the Island at a place called Daylie, but from the accounts given to me of them afford no favorable idea either of him or the Country he resides at. The whole settlement is frequently in want of food & sends here for rice. The place also is very unhealthy from a want of good fresh water & a sufficiency of it, there is nevertheless Sandal Wood & Wax exported from thence, but in what quantities is not known.

The Trade of the Dutch is here carried on by the Chinese who have many Vessels here from 10 to 30

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Tons burthen with which they sail to different Islands, & to the north and south side of this, according to the Monsoon. As this Trade is carried on by barter it has & may be again very lucrative, for the Islands are numerous & Europeans articles are now in common use among the Malays who exchange principally Sandle Wood & Wax, of the latter they get a considerable quantity, the Bees building their Nests in the Bushes & Boughs of Trees. The Vessels are navigated by Malays so that it is only necessary for a Chinese to go as a super cargo, it is however necessary to be well armed.

Thus far only am I yet acquainted with the state of Timor. The Dutch from former ties thought it proper to take the part of the lawfull Emperor, but altho the Governor had Troops from Batavia to more completely garrison the Fort and sent Malay Troops to the Field; yet the rebellion continued for near three years before the Emperor got the better of the Enemy, who from supplication had a peace granted on certain conditions.

As the Armies became numerous supplies of necessary food were less regular and almost a total want followed – large parties then marroon’d for themselves, so that Cattle & Stock of every kind were wantonly destroyed, & a great scarcity was

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the consequence. The indolence of the Malays render them unfit to speedily gett the better of such a disaster and is in part the cause of the scarcity of Provisions which is at this time.

The cultivation of Rice likewise is very inconsiderable from the natural indolence of the Natives, and Indian corn which might be produced in large quantities is scarce to be got; but the latter is considered as a very inferior Grain and used only by the lower order of people, it is therefore not to be wondered at that it is necessary for supplies to be brought from Batavia. As a cause too, it may be owing to every one having a total indifference to Bread, for of that article or Flour I am sure there is not 500 [indecipherable] in the whole place. Rice is therefore their whole support, and as they care for little else altho they cannot of themselves produce sufficient, it is not surprising that they are often subject to want.

There is a kind of Market here form’d by Slaves who sell Tobacco & Beetle, small Rice Cakes, Oranges, Pumpkins, Sweet Potatoes, Scallions, Rape Greens, Plantains & a few other articles; but all these things are in such small quantities that a man would carry the whole on his shoulder. Malay Countrymen also bring in articles every day, but altho such a disposition to barter one would imagine would turn to some account, yet I have seen a Man bring only two Potatoes

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to sell, which being bought 2 doits (equal to a halfpenny) has immediately laid them out in Beetle, and lounged the remaining part of the day about the Town. This is not a singular instance but gives the real Character of the whole People as they appear to me and as I have them represented by People who professedly know them.

As I doubted, and indeed was sensible that the Governor’s ill health could seldom permit me to see him, I took this opportunity to know if it would be agreeable to him to let Mr. Nelson examine the country for Plants. He most readily granted me the favor with an offer of every assistance that I might stand in need of, and assured me that it was a country well worth examining and full of Medicinal Plants. For wounds a most efficacious application is by means of a Root of a shrub or small Tree, which being scraped and applied mixt up with some spirit, never fails of a speedy cure. Remarkable cures are said to have been performed with this Root the property of which is said to be discovered by a Malay in the following curious & singular manner.

In his walk through the woods he struck at a snake that was lying in the Path and cut it in two but for a small thread of the skin. The creature as is common with them not to be immediately dispossessed

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of life moved into the Bushes dragging its hinder part untill it got to a particular Tree which the Malay observed him to lick with his tongue and alternately the amputated part. Whether from design or accident is a doubt, but on the day following the Man repass’d the same spot, and looking after the snake he found it near the Tree with the Parts perfectly joined and therefore brought it home with him to identify the fact. From this circumstance the Root was taken up & has been very successfully applied.

My intentions being to leave Timor as soon as possible, that I might be enabled to get away from Batavia before the sickly monsoon set in, induced me to sollicit the Governor’s assistance, as he joined with me in opinion, that if I remained here untill the Vessels that were in the Road were ready to sail, I might not get to Batavia before the begining of Novr. & thereby lose the opportunity of the Dutch Fleet that sails in October for Europe – in which case I must remain untill January for our own China ships that then pass through Streights Sunda, a length of time in the sickly season that I should avoid by every means in my power. I therefore determined to Hire or Purchase a Vessel to carry me to Batavia, for I considered altho I had performed a much greater voyage in my Boat, yet it would be unjustifyable to proceed

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in her to Batavia any farther. My expences to Government became also materially a matter of consideration, and it as it evidently appeared to me that the most effectual way to lessen such a burden, was by adopting such means as would enable me to be the soonest in Europe; I no longer necessitated to purchase or hire a Vessel as I should find most elligible.

Several Breadfruit which are by the Malays called Sucoom, were offered to sale this day. I had one dressed, but it being a little decayed I could not consider it a proper sample of what may be got, it was notwithstanding very good and of the same kind as at Otaheite, without seed. The People here roast them & eat them cut in slices with Milk & Sugar, but consider them of no value as bread kind.

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Rems. at Coupang Friday 26th June 1789

Light winds variable with Calms and Cloudy Wr.

In general we are now recovering our strength very fast, so that I have every reason to hope that we shall be leave this hospitable place in perfect health. Bathing in the River & exercise is all that we now require except three of us who cannot keep free of Fever. Mr. Max the Doctor is however peculiarly attentive & has taken great pains and trouble.

I took Mr. Nelson with me today to the the Governor’s Gardens and found a variety of fine fruit Trees that we were not acquainted with but by name. These were they, Nanka or Sosak, Balimbing, Carambola, Boabidarah, Syboah, Jambolang and Jambo. The Nanka or Sosac, the latter being the Malay name, is a very large fruit, it grows from the Trunk of the Tree & not pendant from the branches like most other fruit & when ripe will weigh from 10 to 20 lbs. The rhind is rough and prickly. On being cut it is full of seed which are coated with the eatable part of the fruit. There are two kinds of this Fruit the Nanka Boboer, or Jack, and Nanka Salak. I know no difference from the outside, but on the inside one is more juicy and luscious than the other, the one the least so is however the highest flavor’d, & the other resembles our soursop in the West Indies to which the rhind also has a likeness. The seed is rather delicate

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but the Tree large.

The Balimbing is a small acid fruit that grows from the Body of the Tree as the sosac does, altho not larger than a common Girkin – what one might have reason’d on from nature in the sosac, that the branches were subject to be born down by the great weight of the Fruit & therefore was ordained should grow from the Trunk, is not applicable to this fruit called the Balimbing – it is used in Soups & as a pickle.

The Carambola is a very pleasant fruit & very juicy, having something of the taste of Goosberry before it is ripe, with respect to the degree of acid in it. It grows from 2 to 4 Inches long, having five edges, between which a finger may be laid, and when it is cut through the middle it has the resemblance to a star. It is a small but pretty Tree.

The Boabidarah & Jambolang were not in season and only begining to blossom.

The Syboah is a fruit produced from the Palm Tree, it is about the size of a penny loaf & nearly round. The Rhind or Coat is somewhat similar to a Cocoa Nutt, which covers three & sometimes only two Nutts full the size of a large Chesnutt. The shell is thin, & within it is a whitish substance without seed or pip not much unlike a Jelly but of a much firmer substance, the taste is pleasant tho’ not remarkable.

The Jambo is a plentifull Fruit and highly pleasant and grateful to the taste, besides being the most refreshing. There are two kinds the each about the size of a common apple. One has a dark red skin & the other white ting’d with red, the latter is the most juicy &

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is the same as they [the] Otaheite Ayyah. The Tree grows to a moderate size. The leaf like that of a Peach. It has one kernel or seed covered only by a thin brown skin & is difficult to keep.

The Long Pepper or Seeree Boah is here in abundance. The plant is a runner like our Scarlet Beans, and the Fruit very like what is called the Plantain which is gathered out of the Fields in England to give to Linnets. The leaf is somewhat formed like the Ace of Spades. It constitutes a great part of the Beetle luxury.

The Seeree is either the leaf of the same Plant or of one of a like nature, for we could see no difference, yet I am told the Seeree does not bear the Seeree Boah. This leaf is the most principal part of the Beetle luxury as they would use no other part without it.

The Quid of Beetle is composed as follows. Two leaves of Seeree have as much mixed (a) Capore lime put on them as can be taken up with the small end of teaspoon which folded up is put into the mouth with about a quarter of the Peenang Nutt. About half the size of a large Pea of a compound earth called Gambeer follows it, & being chewed for a minute produceth a prodigious quantity of saliva as red as blood. After this they add a little a little Tobacco & bite occasionally of the Seeree Boah as the Quid grows weak. People in general who use the Seeree have their teeth jet black, but a few of the Ladies (for they all chew) who wish it, have their teeth very white.

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Durions, [Durians] Mangosterns,[Mangosteens] Champadah, [also spelt Champada] Lansa & Salac are not to be found here.

The Mangos were begining to blossom. Here are several kinds, but the Mango Doddle or Dodle is said to be the highest flavored. It is a large elegant growing Tree.

We saw many Guava Trees & the Annonah [also spelt Annona] or Custard Apple, but the former had no fruit.

Here are many Pomegranates and are nearly ripe. Pine Apples and Grape Vines close the account of the Fruit that I am yet acquainted with, the former had no fruit & the latter will not bear untill December.

The Kitchen Garden was ill managed for there were but very indifferent greens or even sallad, altho the situation was on the Bank of the River.

Saw two Breadfruit Trees tolerably full of Fruit but they were stinted and shrivelled which I think was owing to the poor spot of ground they were in.

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Remars. at Coupang from Saturdy. 27 to Mondy. 29 June.

Sultry Wr.

Some relapses have taken place, others however continue to gather strength but some with sores in their Legs are troublesome to heal. I still continue very weak.

On the 27th I found the Sun’s Merid. Alt. of the Center to be 56° 27’ from whence by old Tables for the Sun’s Declination I found the latitude to be 10° 12’ So.

The Governor’s ill health begins to render his life very precarious, I have nevertheless the greatest attention from Mr. Wanjon.

I have given publick Notice of my intentions to hire a Vessel to carry us to Batavia & have had several offers but none under 850 Dollars for simply the Passage, for they state the expence for 7 months, as it will be that before the Vessel can return again on account of the Monsoon. In this point of view it is certainly preferable to purchase a Vessel, altho at present none offer under 1200 Rix Dollars.

On Sunday performed Divine Service.

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Rems. Tuesdy. & Wensdy. 30th & 1st of July 1789

Fine pleast. Wr. and S.Ely Winds.

Having now done my utmost by publick enquiries and notice to get a Vessel to proceed wth. the Officers & men under my command to Java at the lowest expence, I have thought it best for His Majesty’s Service to Purchase (a) one for (1000) one thousd. Rix Dollars. This was the lowest price I could get any one at that was safe to proceed to sea in & that wanted so few repairs. She was to be completed for sea with sails, Rigging & two Anchors & Cables, the assistance of my Carpenter included. I therefore directed her to be got to a proper place for repairing & my Carpenter to go to work with some Chinese on the 3rd following and called her the Resurce.

Her extreme Breadth on Deck – 10 ft. 7 ins.
Her extreme Length – 34 ft. 7 ins.
[indecipherable] on the ground – 28 ft. 11 ins.
Depth in the Hold – 5 ft. 8 ins.
Java Built.

At Noon the 1st Merid. Altd. 0 Center – 56° 41’ from whence & decln. by old Tables the latitude is 10° 12’ South.

This day also I presented on service to the Govr. an account of the loss of my ship, & demanded in his Majesty’s name that orders might be sent to all their settlements to take the Pirates if they came there. A complete description List was also given in.

[In margin] (a) on the 1st.

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Rems. Thursdy. 2 July 1789

Fair Wr. and E.S.E. Winds.

The symptoms of a perfect reestablishment of health from some unknown cause begin to fail among four of us who have intermitting Fevers but the rest are doing very well.

I find that it is so long back as the 20th April 1630 that the Dutch first made a settlement of Coupang, upwards 159 years, a series of time that one would have imagined must have produced something remarkable. One cannot help therefore being surprised at the few advantages which a set Europeans have implanted among these People, and at how little they have benefitted the Country. Neither one or the other has certainly ever been even a secondary consideration with them, for if we were to take Coupang away we should discover no signs, (if we except a few desendants) of their having been here, to the honor or credit of their establishment. As far as absolute necessity or convenience led them to marry, their progeny became an improvement (as it may be called for I do not think it so myself) of the Malay. Reading & writing was inculcated, & those few were benefitted. Even this degree of improvement one would have imagined must have been dispensed to many by this time, & that it would have spread itself about the Country at least near to Coupang; but on the contrary no

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marks of it are to be found but in the Town, where the Malay connection with the Dutch seems so totally to have forgot their original, so that there does not appear to be one single natural tye of blood between them & the country people.

By the long connection however of the Dutch with the Malays they have acquired a perfect knowledge of their language & have reduced it to gramar, by which means they have had the Scriptures translated and the prayers at Church are always in the evening service performed in that tongue.

The Malays in general are a well proportioned set of People, and to person acquainted he cannot hesitate a moment to believe that the South Sea Islanders and them are of the same origin. Among the real Malays (that are those who are not connected wth. the Dutch) will be found a great similarity of language & no doubt customs. Of the latter I observe the Tuggee-tuggee of the Friendly Islands wch. they call Toombock, and the Toomee of Otaheite wch. they call Kamas. They count Ten as follows – Asa, Noa, Tainoo, Ha, Neemah, Nai, Heetoo, Fanoo, Seeoha, Sannaoolu. These numbers bear a great similarity. They call Fish Eeka, the Eyes Mattah, and Mattic signifies dead or killed.

I cannot discover that any kind of spice

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is cultivated in this Island on the contrary I am assured it is the Company’s express commands that it is to be rooted out wherever it is found.

Among the curiosities of this place are found the eatable Birds Nest. Of this article a private Trade is carried on, but as the quantity that is found is but small, it can be of no very valuable consideration altho’ the price appears to make up for the scarcity. They are sold here at 13 Rix Dollars pr. lb. & at Java for 15 or 20 pr. lb. I cannot get a knowledge with certainty of what kind of Bird it is that makes this nest, but from some Malay Men’s account, it is of species of Sea Swallow like what we call Mother Careys Chicken. They build in the Rocks & near to the sea, for according to description the Malays are obliged frequently to dive into the Water to get up into the Caverns & Holes into which there is no access from without, and it is certain they have a great deal of difficulty and trouble in getting them.

A Cockle Shell about 3 Inches long is about the size and form of these Nests which are made or wove of threads of glutinous matter that no one has an Idea how it is collected. Whiteness constitutes a great part of the value of this article. It is principal virtues is strengthening & nourishing the Stomack, I never heard however that it was ever dressed alone. They always add a Fowl, & the broth then appears to be chicken with vermacelli mixt with it, and [indecipherable] the Pallate not better. In China they are highly valued. One nest disolved in a large Tea Cup of boiling water or measured to that proportion & drank in the mornings is considered very advantageous to weak constitutions.

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Rems. in Coupang Friday 3rd to Sundy. 5th July 1789.

Fine Wr. and fresh E.S.E. Winds.

On the 3rd I ordered the Carpenter to work on board His Majestys Schooner Resource.

Our health is yet not reestablished. Four are ill wth. intermitting Fevers and myself subject to a great straitness across my breast. Bathing in the River before Sun Rise & walking in the Cool of the Day is the only remedy for the Convalessants. Our walks are confined to within 2 & 4 Miles round the Neighbourhood. In this circuit old stone walls & Fences are numerous, and many ruinates wch. seem to point out that at some distant period back this was a place better cultivated and more thickly inhabited. The Roads are very stoney & the land everywhere covered wth. Brush Wood. Perhaps the finest Tamarin Trees in the World are to be found here. Every person if they have but a yard of ground cultivate a few plants of Tobacco. They however from not knowing how to manufacture it, produce only a very poor commodity. Gardening is the most neglected here that I ever saw it were any Europeans had been, a good Cabbage or bunch of Greens is not to be got.

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Rems. at Coupang Monday 6th July 1789

Fair Wr. & S.Ely Winds.

My Carpenter & Chinese to work about the Vessel. Boatswain about the Rigging & Sailmakers about the Sails.

I directed the Master (John Fryer) today to attend and see that the Carpenter did not loiter away his time, and to report to me if when I was absent if he saw any thing doing he thought was contrary to my directions, when I received for answer that he was no Carpenter & did not understand he had a right to attend to it; but that at any rate he would have an order first. This man’s insolence & contumacy joined with extreme ignorance is always giving me some trouble. I have no immediate resource but severe reprimands which bring him to order for a few days when he meanly conducts himself to endeavor to make me forget his bad behaviour. His being the only responsible person next to myself on board, has been the only reason for his not being a Prisoner for the greatest part of the Voyage.

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Rems. at Coupang Tuesdy. 7th July 1789.

Fair Wr. and mode. E.S.E. Winds. Employed about the Vessel.

Mr. Wanjon whose utmost study and endeavors are to render my situation at Coupang agreeable requested of me to spend the day with him at Owar. Mr. Nelson accompanied us and found many curious Plants but defer’d collecting as he expect a week longer would be vastly advantageous.

The Slaves were principally employed preparing the Cocoa Nutts for making Oil. Four Nutts will make near a pint. The process is by scraping the old Nutts down and putting it into a vessel over a slow Fire untill the oil is produced – it is then fit for any of the uses to which sweet oil is applied.

We saw the Rattah or Otaheite Chesnut here but no Fruit on the Trees. The Malay name for it is Gaigh. Saw many of those curious Trees which through out Roots from the Branches & striking down into the ground become large Trunks of themselves and surrounding the Parent Tree & sometimes connecting with form a large congeries of Trunks curious to behold. These Trees grow to a considerable height, but Mr. Wanjon told us that in the Isl.

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Samow [Samoa ?] they exceed all imagination, the Branches spreading many hundred yards in circumference.

A very destructive Ant is here which destroys Trees & Dwellings in a very short time if not observed. It is very little bigger than the common black ant, its head is yellow & body light coloured.

A small kind of Proquet are innumerable here and fine wood Pidgeons. Wild Duck are also plenty.

Mrs. Wanjon favor’d us with her company & a dinner was prepared for about with all the dainties of Timor among which were very fine Carp.

Robt. Tinkler, the Master’s Brother in Law, having behaved saucy & impertinent to the Boatswain, received some little chastisement for it, upon which it appears the Master interfered and ordered him, Robt. Tinkler, to stick his Knife into him. As soon as I became acquainted with this matter, I as publickly reprimanded the Master, making him responsible in case & equally criminal with Robt. Tinkler in case any such violence is committed.

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Rems. at Coupang Wensdy. 8th to thursdy. 9th July 1789.

Fresh Easterly Winds and Fair Wr. Empl’d about the Sails & Rigging of the Resource.

A Chinese Prow about 20 Tons came in about 2/3 loaded with Sandal Wood & Wax for which they barter with Iron Work & Fire Arms. As I have already mentioned, the Bees build their Nests in the Branches of Bushes of Trees or Bushes to wch. the Natives cannot approach but by fire so that the swarms are numerous that they destroy. The Honey is put into Jars & the Wax is run into Blocks that are about 3 feet long & a foot or 15 ins. square.

On the 9th the Master’s insolence & neglect induced me to give him written orders to attend & report to me the progress of the outfit of the Resource.

Mr. Nelson imprudently leaving off some warm cloathing caught cold & had an attack of Fever.

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Rems. at Coupang Fridy. 10th to Mondy. 13th July 1789.

Fresh Breezes Eastly and Fair Wr.

Mr. Nelson continues very Ill. He is very carefully attended by Mr. Max & Mr. Ledward our own Surgeon.

On the 10th the Carpenter taken ill of a Fever. Chinese at work about the Schooner but go on exceedingly slow.

On Sunday I performed Divine Service in the morning, & in theafternoon I went to Church where the Service was performed by a Malay. The Congregation were nearly 50 persons, most of whom were Malays.

This little place of Coupang is governed by an Opperhooft & Raad, which is a Governor and Council. The Council consists of the second Governor, or Secunde as he is called, the Doctor, Secretary and Officer of the Troops. Before them all cases are tryed but things of a criminal nature are determined at Batavia. Their Courts are held in the Castle where are also the Company’s Stores, Hospital & Barracks.

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Rems. at Coupang Tuesdy. 14 July 1789.

Fair Wr. and fresh Breezes at E.S.E. Employed on the Schooner.

Mr. Nelson very Ill and most dilligently attended by Mr. Max & his Assistant, also Mr. Bortz & our own Surgeon. They use no Purgatives but frequent injections.

Carpenter getting better. Three others have intermitting Fevers. Myself much recovered but very weak.

This morning I attended a Chinese Funeral. The Person was of the Superior Class at this place. The order of the Funeral was said therefore to be attended with suitable pomp & grandeur.

Old age with its usual infirmities caused the death of this Man, and as the approaches were gradual, he had directed and got his coffin made at an early period, which I am told he often looked at with great composure neither showing a desire or a dread of Death. Life therefore about which we have so much sollicitude and anxious care appeared only a secondary consideration with him, so that he had arrived at that state of present happyness altho a real Idolator, which is the grand object wth. every good Christian.

The Body lay four days, the third

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it was put into the Coffin and the necessary preparations for the Funeral were completed.

On the 4th day at 4 in the morning the ceremony began by a clattering of Metal Pans (called Gongs) two small Trumpets and two Flutes. With the latter at intervals they played a Dirge, and the gongs at every quarter of an hour were beat with great violence for the space of a minute. The Men relations of the deceased were dressed in white Callico Habits made as their common habilements are, and the Women had Veils of the same cloth. Two Boys dressed as the Men, each with a piece of Bamboo 2 feet long, performed the office of Mutes. The Coffin was painted black ornamented with gilded characters, & an Iron Skewer went down past the left shoulder to the bottom of the Coffin. The Procession was in Pairs, the first held large paper Lanthorns with a Candle lighted in each carried at the top of Long Poles wch. raised them 8 or 10 feet above the ground. Next was carried in the same manner a Hoop covered wth. red satteen [sateen] like a Petticoat. Then followed by Pairs about 2 dozen decorative Paper Ensigns and one of Red Sattin, a Seddan Chair, with a small pot put therein filled wth. sand in wch. was stuck a number of small stick covered with some compositionwhich made them burn without blaze, closed the order while the Corps was got ready

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to be removed out of the House upon the Bier.

In the Room where the Corps lay was a Table spread with someTea Equipage. At the back of it was a kind of Paper Alter with Chinese Characters, & underneath a Pot of burning small sticks, & Candles on each side. Adjoining was another Table spread with dressed Fowls, Ducks, a Leg of Pork & part of a Haslet. On the left of the Alter was a Goat clean’d of its hair fixed on a Bier for that purpose, in the attitude of listening or alarmed at some sounds that it heard; and on the Right was a Hog in a similar position.

The two Brothers of the deceased with his Son stood before the Altar at the end of the Tables. One man stood on the left & two on the right of them to perform the office of Priests, and one of them kneeling down read a Prayer. After the Prayer a silver cup of Tea, or what was in the Tea Pot, was presented on a Silver Waiter was presented to the middle Person seven dfiferent times, who after paying a devotion of bowing to the Altar & manes of the deceased by Kneeling and bowing their Faces to the ground returned it to the Altar. A Basket of gilded papers were set fire to before the Door to which also they paid devotion. One of the Brothers kneeled down by the side of the Coffin & appeared to be in conversation with the

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deceased, when one of my seamen swore he was bespeaking a good berth for himself in the next world, which if he had permitted me to have had my own Ideas on it I should have asked, if one might have reasons from this, that their happyness in a future state is in their Idea to be in some degree procured by the intercessions of their Friends who dye before them. But the expression of the seaman is as emphatical and no one can deny but it is much more conscise.

The Slaves & Servants took their farewell of their Master by loud shouts of Grief. The Victuals were removed from the Table into a Basket, and the Hog & Goat were taken into an adjoining House. The Corps was now taken out on a bier during which the Symbols made a great noise as if to overcome the Grief that takes place on the removal of the Body.

The Altar also was removed out & carried before the Corps, & the procession moved off with their Freinds & acquaintance following in Pairs and after all the Female Mourners. Three swivels were fired & Rockets at every 5 minutes and the road was strewed with gilded papers as they went to the Grave, where the Body was deposited with no other ceremony than each person throwing a handfull of earth on

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the Coffin; the Female mourners walking three times round the Grave, and a bundle of Gilded Papers burnt as they had done before the House.

The Men remained to see the grave closed, during which the Victuals were spread on the ground & the Altar held before at the grave & any person that chose, eat or drank. Some devotions were then performed by the two Brothers by bowing & kneeling after which the victuals were taken up & every one returned Home.

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Rems. at Coupang Wednesdy. & Thursdy. 15th & 16th July 1789.

Fresh Breezes & Fair Wr. with Light Winds at Night. Wind E.S.E.

Mr. Nelson very Ill – three Invalids – Carpenter returned to his Duty on the 15th. Empl’d about the Vessel.

As I have expressed a desire to see the Seed Breadfruit Mr. Wanjon had some sent from the Country to show me. If we except colour this Fruit has no resemblance to the other. Its surface is covered with projecting points near an half Inch long which give it the appearance of being covered wth. prickles, but these points are tender & being easily broke emitt a milky substance like the other fruit but its inside is full of large seed which may be compared to Winsor [Windsor] Beans & are equally good when either boiled or roasted. No other part is eatable. The Tree I am told is to all appearance the same as that which bears the Fruit without seed or the Otaheite kind & is called Sucoom Raja, the other Sucoom Beejee. I proposed to Mr. Nelson before his Illness to take some of the good kind away with us, but if a change does not shortly take place in his Illness I am very apprehensive I shall have the misfortune to lose him.

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Rems. Friday 17th July 1789

Do. Wr.

Employed about the vessel. Every assistance is given to Mr. Nelson but he remains extremely ill.

I got the following account today of the time the Dutch made their settlements among these Islds.

Jany. 1st 1681- Ternate conquered
Jany. 14 1644 – Malacca conquered
Feby. 23 1605 – Ambon conquered
April 20 1630 – Coupang in Timor conquered
July 2 1609 – Began Trade with Japan
July 15 1664 – Macapur conquered
Augt. 13 1609 – Banda conquered
July 15 1662 – Mallabar conquered
May 30 1619 0 Batavia conquered
April 6 1652 – Cape Good Hope settled

Also their geographical situation of places counting the first meridian from the Ri of Tenarif [also spelt Tenerife].

Cape of Good Hope – 33° 55’ So. – 34° 36’ E.
Amboina [also spelt Ambon] – Casteel Victoria – 3° 40 – 145° 55’
Banda – Casteel Belgica – 4° 35’ – 147° 20’
Ternaten – Casteel Oranje – 0° 45’ No. – 144° 00’
Maccapar – Casteel Rotterdam – 5° 00’ So. – 136° 50’
Banjer in Borneo – 2° 40’ – 131° 40’
Pontiana [also spelt Pontianak] in Borneo – 0° 30’ – 135° 30’
Timor – Casteel Concordia – 10° 11’ – 138° 20’
Palembang in Sumatra – 2° 40’ – 120° 3’
Padang in Sumatra – 0° 45’ – 116° 5’

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Japan – Nangasaki [also spelt Nagasaki] – 33° 00’ N. – 148° 40’ E.
Malacca – Casteel Malacca – 3° 10’ – 148° 45’
Cormandel – Negapatnam – 10° 40’ – 95°’ 40’
Ceilon [Ceylon] - Colombo – 7° 00’ – 95° 30’
Mallabar – op. Cochin – 0° 50’ – 92° 00’
Souratte [possibly Surat, India] – 21° 10’ – 88° 00’
Java, op. Samaran – 6° 55’ So. – 127° 30’
Cheribon – Casteel de Bescherming – 6° 50’ – 124° 15’
Bantam – Casteel Speelwyck – 6° 5’ – 121° 20’
Batavia – Casteel Diamant – 6° 10’ – 122° 47’

Several prows have arrived this week loaded wth. wax & sandle wood which was all landed at the Chinese stores. These industrious & busy people have a part of the Town allotted to them, that is next to the seaside and is called the Camp. They are under a Captain and are quiet and good citizens – almost all the vessels belong to them & through these people all the Trade of this place is carried on.

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Rems at Coupang, Saturdy. 18th July to Mondy. 20th 1789

Fresh Gales at E.S.E. & Fair Wr. moderating towards nights. Employed on board the vessel. On the 18th I directed Mr. Samuels to get made out the remains of Provisions on board His Majesty’s Ship Bounty, he having saved the Books relative to the receipt & expenditure of Provisions & liquor as well as the Slop Book, and that on such account being made out, he was to present it to the Master showing him the Books, that an affidavit might be made to the truth of it before the Governor lest an accident by death should render such an account doubtfull as to its validity.

At ½ past one on Monday afternoon Mr. David Nelson departed this life. The Fever was inflamatory. The loss of this Honest Man bears very heavy on my mind – his duty & integrity went hand in hand, and he had accomplished through great care and dilligence the object he was sent for, always forwarding every plan I had for the good of the service we were on. He was equally serviceable in my voyage here, in the course of wch. he always gave me pleasure by conducting himself with resolution & integrity.

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Rems. at Coupang, Tuesdy. 21st & Wednesdy. 22nd July 1789

Fresh Winds at E.S.E. and Fair Wr.

Employed caulking and other duties on board the Resource.

On the 21st, I ws employed this day regulating the Funeral of Mr. Nelson most friendly assisted by Mr. Wanjon who I requested to invite in my name all the Gentlemen of the town at 5 o’clock in the Evening. The order of the Funeral was as follows. The Corps was carried by 12 Soldiers in black preceded by the Minister, next followed myself & second Governor, then ten Gentlemen of the town & Officers of the ships and after them my own officers & people.

After reading our burial service the Body was interred behind the Chappel in the Ground appropriated to the Europeans of the Town.

I was sorry to find I could get no Tombstone at this place, that a stranger might have contemplated that a man lay there who had surmounted every calamity and distress for eight & forty days across a dangerous sea with fortitude and health; but that at last after surmounting every difficulty, and in the midst of his humble gratitude & joy to Almighty God for his preservation; he paid this debt which human weakness would have believed was to have been at a most distant period.

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On Wednesday Prayers were performed at the Chappel for the recovery of the Governor who now lies dangerously Ill.

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Rems. at Coupang, Thursdy. 23 July 1789

Fresh Gales E.S.E. & S.E. and Fair Wr. Empld. about the vessel.

Our health is now tolerably reestablished. There are however two still two Invalids.

Besides the River Water, here are some charming springs, so that the former is scarce ever used but for the purposes of cleaning. To bring the water to the House they have Buckets made from the leaves of the Palm Trees which hold 3 & 4 Gallons. These Trees are in great abundance all over the Country, and at a distance resemble the Cocoanutt. From the likeness of the leaf to a Fan they are called the Fan Palm. They are valuable from producing a clear liquor called Toack which is an agreeable and wholesome drink, & when boiled produceth a very rich syrup of the consistency of Trecal that if properly fined is a very good sweetner. The Island Java is a noted place for this syrup & vessels come here from that place with great quantities for sale. We gave for a jar that held about 3 gallons, 30 stivers, but the Inhabitants get it for half the price.

The liquor is got by cutting a notch in the Branches to which the [they] hang a bucket to receive the juice & is called tapping the Tree. They bear the Fruit I have described under the name of Syboah.

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The amount of my enquiries respecting the weather & monsoons at this Isld. are thus. That the Company’s ships are not allowed to lye in the Road (which is open from the North to W.N.W.) before the 10th March the West Monsoon being then considered to be nearly over. April the Easterly wind or Monsoon begins, but the weather is sometimes variable untill May when the easterly wind is steady and blows so untill Octr. when it becomes variable again with Rain & westerly winds which are fixed in the month of December.

These changes in some degree reach as far as Otaheite, with this difference, with that the westerly winds do not blow so constant, but in other respects alike. The Summer Solstice is the general time of the change.

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Rems. at Coupang, from Friday 24th to Tuesdy. 28 July

Very Fresh Gales Easterly and fair Wr. People in general are troubled with colds & say these strong winds are very unhealthy, it is therefore not surprising that I have still two Invalids.

Carpenters employed about the vessel, but such bad workmen that it goes very slowly on.

On the 25th I finished my observations on the Tides. At full & change it flows it is high water 11 o’clock in the forenoon and the rise of the Tide is 8 feet 8 inches, but in the height of the Spring it rises about 9ft. 6 in. and it is high water then at ¾ past Noon or one o’clock according to the winds.

I saw a Lusus Naturae today, a Malay Woman who had White Hair, Eyebrows, & eyelashes, was exceedingly near sighted & her skin white, but very rough and much freckled. Her Eyes were grey.

On Sunday performed Divine Service. We continue Bathing every morning in the River at a place of the Governor’s called Mantassy which has restored the most of us to our usual strength but my sick list is now increased by a third person & all of them intermitting Fevers.

On the 20th John Fryer, Master, & Mr. John Samuels, Clerk, made oath to the remains of Provisions on Board the Bounty.

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Rems. on Wednesday 29th July 1789

Light northerly Winds. Three men ill wth. intermitting Fevers, Mr. Max the Town Doctor attending constantly, Mr. Ledward our own Surgeon being one of the sick. Every proper & necessary article is got for them that is necessary.

The Residence of the Emperor or Riza as he is called, is at Backennassy a pretty place about 4 miles from Town. By appointment I paid him a visit today, for I was particularly desirous to see him as he was the Person whose Nephew had caused the War that was in the Island a short time since.

The situation of Backennassy is very pleasant and airy with a pretty view of the sea. The River which empties itself at Coupang, runs through it, so that it is charmingly watered and produces a large quantity of Rice. The Country is exceedingly picturesque, but the Hills in general are very rocky & scarce soil sufficient to produce grass in the rainy season. I imagine I saw about 150 acres of Rice, & in some places the Harvest is begun. About this Part of the Country it is charmingly cloathed wth. Cocoa Nutts & other Trees. The Cocoa Nutts are in abundance and very fine, and the Trees I think bear

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greater quantities than in the South Sea. Plantains are also in great perfection and the Sugar Cane grows luxuriantly, but I cannot find that the latter is for any other use than for eating, to which I attribute that only small quantities are to be met with.

The Bread Fruit Tree which is a Native of this Island as much as it is of Otaheite, grow with great luxuriance. I saw about 20 Trees some of which were larger than I ever saw at Otaheite. They produce identically the same Fruit; but from what cause I know not, the Fruit is not so good, equal sized fruit would weigh nearly one half heavier at Otaheite. It must certainly be owing to the soil. They are nevertheless very good & I have had several dressed since I have been at Coupang. The Natives eat them with milk. There were about a hundred or two suckers, but scarce any that were below the surface of the ground to have young roots fit for removing into Pots.

This being the height of the dry season the ground is scorched up in every place so that not a blade of grass is to be seen, it therefore is the case that the Cattle are exceedingly Poor for they have nothing to feed on but leaves.

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The few sheep that are about the neighbourhood of Coupang are small & so are the horned Cattle except the Karrabows or Wild Ox. The Horses are likewise small but are pleasant travelling animals & are sure footed. Goats thrive here very well. Hogs are very scarce, and as Indian Corn is but thinly planted the Poultry is as Poor as any Island in the Soluth Sea, unless they are particularly fed.

There is nothing merits my mentioning the reception I met with from the Emperor but his Civility. I found him to be an Elderly Man. His dress was a cheque wraper girded rounded his waist by a Silk & Gold Belt, a loose linnen Jacket, and a coarse Handkerchief about his Head. His Dwelling was the shell of a large House, which was only divided into three apartments surrounded by a Piaza. It was well situated but very dirty, & the few Chairs & Tables that he had were in the same state. About a pint of Arack was all he had, that however was the first thing he offered to me besides the Beetle. A few Chief Malays were with him, & after making some enquiries who I was & how I came to the Island, Tea was set before me with some Rice Cakes made up and fryed with Cocoa Nutt Oil, some roasted Indn. Corn & two saucers of dryed Buffaloe Flesh.

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The curiosities in this Repast were the two last articles. The Indian Corn by the mode of dressing it turned the grains inside out & perhaps is the most tempting & pretty Dish that can be put on a Table as a Desert altho a great deception. The manner of dressing is this – an iron pan is put over the fire into which a spoonfull of some oily substance is put. As soon as it becomes hot, about a large handfull of Corn is now put therein and kept stirring untill it has imbib’d all the fat. The heat of the Pan having then nothing else to act upon but the Corn, every grain begins to burst & fly about for which you are prepared with a cover which is laid on untill the cracking is over when the whole is taken out.

The Buffalo Flesh is so dryed that it is beat to thread & dust before it can be used – it is however very palatable, & might be eat on bread & butter as well as Pamasan Cheese.

The repast was no sooner over than the Emperor with three of the Chiefs who had partook of it retired and after a short deliberation they came out and presented to me a bound metal piece (4 inches Diameter with a Star stampt on it) as a present, which of course I readily accepted, a mutual compliment of bowing passed between us, & he appeared highly pleased that I could thank him in the Malay language.

As I knew liquor was of great value among

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these people I was prepared to make my present, & I found the Arrack which I had brought for the purpose to be highly acceptable.

As indolence forms a great part of the character of the Malays so the Beetle is admirably well calculated to gossip away their time, it is always the first thing presented, & laying aside the Tobacco it may be used without much disgust by any European whatever. No one dilutes any liquor, every kind of Spirit is therefore drunk in its real state & habit has brought them to bear a large quantity at a time without being intoxicated.

As I desired to take a walk the Chiefs attended me, and I saw the Breadfruit already described. The only new Fruit I met with was the Chermaila, it is of a very agreeable tartness and acquires a sweetness when ripe – grows in clusters from the main wood of the Branches, is about the size of a common goosberry & is very fine for all the purposes of that fruit. The Tree is about 15 feet high. I saw a few Guava Trees wth. some fruit on them, the Malay Name is Gooyavas. The Sugar Cane they call Taboo.

To make the Trees in general bear fruit they chop the Trunk full of cuts just as deep as to get through the rhind. The Otaheiteans point a piece of hard wood a foot long & an Inch Diameter, and

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drive it into the body of their Breadfruit Trees to acquire the same end.

On the death of an Emperor large Feasts are made to which the whole inhabitants are supposed to be invited. After a few Days the Body is put into a Coffin or long Box closely shut up and is kept for 3 years before the interment takes place.

Since the conquest the Dutch have endeavour’d to established Christianity, this Emperor was therefore christened Barnadus, his Malay name being Bacchee, bannock, but I cannot help observing that it has gained little other ground in this country except in the Town of Coupang.

The Island might be valuable to the Dutch was it solely under their jurisdiction, but the Portugese settlements in the North causes a great division among the Malays, it is therefore the case that what Trade might center at Coupang is carried off to the Portugese. The Emperor himself declared that gold dust used to be a part of their Trafic, but even Bees Wax & Sandal Wood would be sufficient - from the latter an oil of a very high perfume is extracted.

The Indian or natural Malay Houses are sometimes built round & at others in the common way. Bamboos form generally the side & partitions

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and the roofs are thatched. They are fond of stone Fences which they make with little trouble. The Villages & everyone’s property is on that account marked out having a wall round them but as they use no mortar they are more or less always in disorder. From these kind of Fences which are now desolate here are many proofs of it having been a more populous country than I now find it.

The Malays have not that cleanlyness about them as is among the Natives of the Society & Friendly Islands, and owing to a want of it they are subject to the Itch.

Their connections with the Europeans have given them the small Pox, & whenever it befalls them it is attended wth. the most calamitous circumstances sweeping off vast members & desolating the country. Other disadvantages they seem to labour under from this intercourse, they seem appear not to have that life & spirit which is the native character of these Indians. I even observed a vast difference between our friends here & the more independent Malays who live under their own Chiefs far back in the Island, many of whom I have seen in Town on their own busyness

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who possessed the quickness and power of a Friendly Islander.

These People however have been taught mildness in their punishments, for in their villages I have seen offenders put into the stocks the same as in Europe, but they use no Irons, altho Coupang rings with leg ornaments on miserable runaways & other others who have behaved ill.

I eat part of a Nanka today that weighed 20 lbs., it was very delicious & high flavored. The seeds also were exceedingly good when roasted.

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Rems. at Coupang Thursdy. 30th July & Fridy. 31st 1789

Light Winds N.Wly. and Fair Wr. with Easterly Winds at Night.

Employed about the vessel. Three men in the sick list with intermitting Fevers.

About a dozen China vessels have sailed out of the River this Week and are gone to Trade for Sandle Wood and Wax.

The Mango Trees are now in blossom and some of the Jambolang, and the bushes in general indicate a the advance of Spring. All these circumstances recalll to me the loss of Mr. Nelson, and the object of my voyage, which at times almost bears me down, but for the impropriety to let so much weakness get the better of me.

I have forgot to mention a Fruit that is called Namnam, it is fit for any of the uses we put the Apples to, such as Pyes &c. and has a large seed that vegetates very quickly as does the seed of the Nanka. It is a flat semi-circular Fruit about 3 Inches long.

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Rems. at Coupang Saturdy. August 1st 1789

Light variable Winds and fair Wr. Empld. about the vessel. Two men in the Sick List. The Governorcontinues very Ill. Mr. Wanjon continues to be peculiarly attentive to all everything I express a desire to have done, and furnishes the Chinese with materials, articles to enable them to complete our little vessel for sea.

I took a ride today into the Country to a Pen of the Governor’s called Olomee about 8 Miles from hence, in the course of which I took a circuit of about 25 miles. I found in general every part of the high ground very rocky and to produce nothing but Trees & Bushes which seemed equally to suffer by the extreme heat & want of Rain to the soil itself, which was so burnt that nothing appeared to be growing. The Valleys & lower grounds however were very different, these Parts were well watered, the Trees grew luxuriantly, particularly the Cocoa Nutt, & I had many beautifull views of extensive Plantations of Rice, of these Places one is called Laidamatta about 4 miles from Coupang.

The only Trees I was acquainted with that I saw growing & to be considered Natives, for I presume

[Page 237]

[In margin]
(a) Also the Tamarind.

they had never been planted or touched by the hand of Man, was the Anonia or Custard Apple and the Sosac or Nanka (a). The Cocoa Nutt I imagine is always allowed to be a Native of the Climate. With respect to those which appeared to me as extraordinary & curious I saw only one kind. They were very large Trees and at a little distance appeared to have lost the Rhind and the milk white Trunk & branches indicated they had no life, but the senses are very agreeably surprised to find the Tree in full vigor & the most beautifull glossy white satten the natural appearance of the Bark.

I crossed one very large River. The water was low at this time, but there were evident proofs of great Torrents passing through in the Rainy season. Many branches lead off from this River, & the lower grounds are well watered.

Oloomy is in a pleasant valley where the Governor keeps two Dutchmen, to look after his Cattle, Poultry & Hogs, who with a dozen Malays are the whole of the Inhabitants. Several Malay settlements are within a few miles of each other but a half dozen Houses is the largest I met with.

Except the Valleys as I have mentioned before, the Country is very barren & good for nothing. The Rainy season may produce a little grass, but

[Page 238]

during the rest of the year the country is burnt up, and but for the Bushes one would only see rocky perforated rocks & stones which are equally offensive to ear from a horrid jingling sound they have as one rides or walks among them.

The only the Cattle I saw was the Karrabow or wild ox and some Goats. The Karrabow is the only Cattle of the ox kind that they Malays have. They are very poor & coarse eating. I am told that the price of them is a Spanish Dollara year according to their age up to five years old, so that the largest & best ox is only valued at 5 Spanish Dollars.

The Country appears to me to be very thinly inhabited. It is the middle of Harvest, yet I did not see about any one property above 6 persons, & what was extraordinary, the way they took in their grain was by each person carrying a basket and striping the ears off by hand.

This day I applied to the Governor & Raad to be supplied with Cash for his Majesty’s Service & engaged to give Bills on Government to the amount.

[Page 239]

Rems. at Coupang, Sundy. Aug. 2nd to Weddy. 5th, 1789

Very Fresh Gales East Southly and Fair Wr. Two men in the Sick List intermitting Fevers.

Employed about the vessel. On the 4th my Carpenter finished lying the Deck which he has been 27 days in doing. 5th Masted the Vessel.

A Chinese Prow came in loaded with Wax and Sandle Wood which was all landed at their own stores.

I had some new Fruit procured for me today called Sow. It is about the size of & like a red Plumb, has a pleasant sweet taste & mealy like a Potatoe – it had four stone seeds.

On the 5th I was surprised to find there was a Demur on supplying me with Cash to free my Expences, and Mr. Wanjon informed me that the Governor, altho he was so ill that he expected every day to hear of his death, continued to interfere in this busyness & that now became doubtfull about supplying my wants, & desired that I would in my publick request for such monies as I stood in need of, suffer the names of my officers to be joined wth. my own as an additional security. I returned for answer that I would suffer no officer to join with me in such a request & after explaining the rules of service I told him

[Page 240]

I could give him no other or could he have them any better security than my Bills of Exchange on the Government of Great Britain. A Publick Letter I gave to Mr. Wanjon to this purport and desired I might have an answer without delay.

I cannot account for this strange affair or how the Governor came to be disturbed about anything concerning me at a time when he is lying in the most dangerous state every hour expected to be his last.

[Page 241]

Rems. at Coupang Aug. 6th to Saturdy. 8th 1789.

Fresh Breezes and Fair Wr. Wind E.S.E.

Employed rigging & fitting the vessel. Sick list four men intermitting Fevers. I have observed that those people who have been attacked wth. the Fever have all been swelled & bloated about the Face. Bleeding was practised in the begining.

I am now detained by the Governor’s Ill health, he is now incapable of speaking and is hourly expected to die. The Raad can therefore cannot issue me any supplies untill they can have an answer to my letter of the 5th Inst.

[Page 242]

Rems. at Coupang Sundy. Aug. 9th to Thursdy. 11th 1789

Strong Breezes at E.S.E. & Fair Wr. variable Winds at Night.

Four men Ill wth. intermitting Fevers.

On applying for Firewood Mr. Wanjon immediately sent off a Party of vessel Malays to cut the quantity I wanted. Ballasted the vessel and received five Puncheons of water on board. On the 20th I received 2 Puncheons of Salt Meat, one contg. 254 lbs Beef & the other 250 lbs of Pork.

On the 11th recd. 504 lbs of Rice in Bags. The Govenor lying in a dying state, & beng at last doubtfull how to act, having had something hinted to him of a doubt of my responsibility, Mr. Wanjon most readily took the whole at his own risk and will supply me wth. cash and every thing I am in need of out of his own private fortune.

My Master who I am under the necessity to keep strictly to his Duty, and is a viscious person, it is hinted to me has been the cause of the Governor’s demur. The wife of a Capt. Spikerman who is Governor’s wife’s sister is the Person who has gained admittance for such a wisper through the

[Page 243]

intimacy of her Husband (a man disrespected here) with the Master.

[Page 244]

Rems. at Coupang Wedndy. & Thursdy. 12th & 13th Aug. 1789

Fresh Breezes E.S.E. moderating towards Night. Sick list three men still ill of an intermitting Fever.

12th Received 32 galls. of Arrack, 51 lbs of Sugar & 3 galls. of Vinegar.

As our voyage to Java is subject to accident from Piratical Vessels, Mr. Wanjon granted that I should have as a loan to be returned at Batavia the following Arms.

Swivels Brass

1 [indecipherable] – 192 lbs – Powder 50 lbs
2 – 190 – Flints 42 in No.
3 – 195 – Mus. Balls 560
4 [indecipherable] 165 – Musquets – 14
Bayonets – 14
Swivel Balls – 100
Powder Horns – 2
Priming Wires – 2

The above I gave the Gunner on order dated 12th. I directed the Master to take the vessel out into the Road as the Tides would be taking off & after today we should be neaped, but by neglect he let the Tide fall two feet & by that means I am detained.

The Piratical Vessels that infest these seas are the People from Borneo & Celebes.

[Page 245]

On the 13th I received 30 fine Plants that the Govr. who on my first arrival from a request I made to him promised should be got ready for me. I received others also from Mr. Wanjon the whole consisting of Karambolas, Jambos, Nankas, Breadfruit, Chermailah and others of a fine Tree that bear leaves of a high perfume called Boongah Kanangah. Mr. Wanjon also got me some seeds for His Majesty’s Garden at Kew. The Breadfruit had but ony [only] little roots I therefore think they may fail.

Vessel neaped.

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Rems. at Coupang Fridy. 14th to Tuesdy. 18th Aug. 1789.

Fresh Breezes Easterly & Fair Wr. Three People ill with intermitting Fever.

On the 14th I ordered the Master to attend to the vessel & not quitt her without my leave when I received for answer “When I am commandg. officer I shall come on shore when I please". The vicious & troublesome disposition of this man can be only equalled by his ignorance & meanness, always ready to make concession & supplicate my forgiveness in the most abject manner.

The Secretary to the Company brought me in an account a Tax of 5 percent on the Purchase of the Schooner; but I refused to pay any such Tax & it was therefore laid on the Seller.

The Governor exists but that is all. I am now busyly employed writing my letters & getting my accounts in a train for settling.

[Page 247]

Rems. at Coupang 19th & 20th Aug. 1789.

Fresh Breezes & Fair Wr., S.Ely. Winds.

Wednesdy. 19th – I now closed all my accounts both for victualling & every other nature and gave Bills on His Majestys Navy & Victualling as follows –

RD. – Sch. - Tho
To the Navy Board for Purchase of Vessel – 1000.-.-
To the Navy Board forSlops – 106.3.4
To the Navy Board for necessary Stores – 34.-.-
To the Victualling Board – Board & Lodgs. – 999.2.-

Rix Dollars – 2139.5.4

To the Victuallg. Board for Sea Store – 257.18.-

Total amount, Rix D. – 2397.-.4

I left letters to the Lords of the Admiralty & Navy & Victualling Board to be sent by the first Ship that sailed.

On the 20th in Forenoon I embarked and prepared to sail. I left the Governor at the Point of Death. To this Gentleman is due our most gratefull thanks for the humane and friendly treatment that we have received from him, and whose miserable state of health only prevented him from showing me more particular marks of his attention. Unhappily it is to his memory only that I now

[Page 248]

pay this poor Tribute. But it was a fortunate circumstance that, the Secunde, Mr. Wanjon was equally susceptible and ready to relieve us. His attention was unremitting, and more than all, when there was a doubt about supplying me with money on Government account to enable me to a purchase a Vessel to proceed on my Voyage, he cheerfully took it upon himself, without which it was evident I should be too late at Batavia to sail for Europe wth. the Fleet on the last of October. I can only return such services by mentioning them to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that if it may appear to their Lordships, worthy of their attention Mr. Wanjon may receive such promotion as to know his zeal to assist His Majestys subjects has not been forgot.

Mr. Max the Surgeon has attended us wth. the utmost care, for which I could not get him to render in any account, or answer, than that it was his Duty & would receive no payment.

In the afternoon I sailed & was saluted by the shipping wch. I returned. At this Day at Noon Log Account begins being 12 Hours earlier than Civil account of time according to which my Diary at Coupang has been kept.

[Page 249]

I shall close my account with a few remarks I have omitted to mention among my common occurences.

The Town of Coupang is situated about 12 miles to the N.E. of the S.W. point of Timor & in the S.W. part of a Great Bay where is a most excellent Road for shipping. The Town consists of about 150 houses including Malays & Chinese. Its situation is perhaps peculiarly desireable on account of the Road and a fine River, and to the latter we may without error attribute the great share of health that the Inhabitants enjoy. It is also very advantageous to their Trade as it can admit vessels of 6 feet draught of water.

The European Houses are built of stone with large Piazas, which with fine Trees branching over them the whole of the Dwelling is cool and agreeable. The River divides the town. The Chinese Houses are along the sea shore & the Fort is on a small emminence on the West side of the the River’s mouth across which is a Bar of Sand.

Along the Banks of the River grow very fine shady Trees where the walk is agreeable even at Noon Day, but the common Mall as it may be called, terminates about 1 mile from the Town at a place called Montassy a little country retirement of the Governor’s. Farther than this the Roads are

[Page 250]

wild and irregular.

I may confine the superior class of Inhabitants to four Families and among those no European Women their dress therefore is not after our fashion except in the Gown & Petticoat and the first is only worn at particular times, the common Bedgown being the common general dress. They wear their Hair comed [combed] smooth back & formed in a Rose or Ring on the back of the Head secured by Diamond Pins & Combs richly ornamented with Diamonds. Their complexion is fair in proportion as their removes are from the Malay origin. They use the Beetle and have gold & silver equipage for that use, but the young Women do not chew it publickly. They are particularly nice & clean in their persons and some of them very pretty Women.

I say the superior Class may be confined to four families, there are however ten or a dozen others who vissit them, so that they have their little Parties & private animosities like the rest of the world.

Dancing is not common they have nevertheless a taste for music & play very prettily on the Harp. Omber & Kinze fill up their vacant hours when they are disposed to visit, which with their parties in bathing & little excursions in the country are all the amusements. But the life of

[Page 251]

This little community depends on the Governor, & perhaps no one was better calculated to dispense such blessings than the late Mr. Van Este, on whose account this little Village may be said not to be in a situation at present to have its character justly drawn.

Poultry, Hogs & Goats are a common property as likewise the Karrabow, but other horned Cattle and Sheep, all that I saw, belonged to the Governor.

With respect to my nautical remarks I can only say that the Isld. is about 64 leagues long from S.W. to N.E. The S.W. & South point is in the latitude of 10° 24’ So. I observed the latitude of Coupang to be 10° 12’ S. and from the Dutch accont the latitude of the N.E. and North end is 8° 40’ So. From the same authority the Longd. of Coupang is 121° 51’ E. of Greench. [Greenwich] This I may be able to ascertain hereafter by my run to Batavia.

A large Island called Pulo Samow forms the Road of Coupang on the West, it also extends round the West end of Timor & gives some secure situations in the west monsoon, and if there is good bottom & moderate depth of water [comment in margin] (See my 2nd Voyage.) the anchorage is so extensive on each side that numerous Fleets may anchor in safety. Of course there are two entrances into Coupang Road. Off the southermost lies the Isld. Rotty to the S.W. b S., and in the middle of the north

[Page 252]

entrance is a small Isld. surrounded by a reef which must be given a good birth to. The North Enterance is the most elligible for ships that are bound to Coupang.

Wood & water is always to be got here, but refreshments precarious, it is however an elligible stopping place if ships make Endeavour Streights a common pass to & from Botany Bay.

[Page 253]

[Pages 253 to 255 blank pages.]

[Page 256]

Voyage from Coupang in Timor to Batavia coppied from my original journal under my own inspection. Wm. Bligh.

Remarks Friday August 21, 1789

Fresh Breezes Fair Wr. and Hazy.

Saluted the Fort with 13 Guns which was return’d with an equal number. The Ship Cline Pallas Capt. Spikerman and the Cutter Capt. Vancorten saluted me with 9 Guns each which I returned with7 Guns when I was again saluted with 7 Guns from the Fort. Made sail with the Long Boat in tow.

At 6 p.m. the North point of Pulo Samow S. b S. and Coupang S.E. b E. dist. 4 Leagues.

I steer’d to make the Island Flores my intention being to go through Straits Sapi.

Saw a Whale.

Pleasant Trade and Hazy Wr. and Smooth Water.

Served 3 Jills of Syrup to each man being equal to a Week’s Butter and Cheese Banyan day Rice a pint per man every day in lieu of Bread and a half pint of Arrack. From this day issues will be according to the establish’d Rules.

Two men ill with intermitting Fevers.

[Page 257]

Remarks Saturday 22 August 1789.

Pleasant Trade and Hazy Wr.

Fresh Gales & Fine Night.

Close reef’d the Main Sail and Double Reef’d the Fore Sail. A very cross running Sea. Carried away the Fore Gaff. Fix’d a Bamboo one.

Less Wind out Reefs. Still a troublesome Sea going.

Saw the Island Flores from N. b W. to N.E.

Very Hazy Flores N.N.W. to N.E. b N. could see no more of it.

Fresh Breezes & very Hazy scarce able to see the land. Two High Peek’d Mountains Bearing N. ¼ E. & N.N.W. off shore about 10 Leagues.

Many small sand Larks about & patches of sea weed.

[Page 258]

Remarks Sunday 23rd August 1789.

Fresh Breezes and exceedingly hazy scarce able to see the Land.

Less Wind and very Hazy. Altho standing in for the Land 10 Hours yet we appear to have neared it but little. The extreams now as far as I can see it Bears from N.W. ½ N. to N.E. ¼ E. The Westt. Mountain N. b W. ½ W. the East N. b E.

I saw some smoke issue from the Top of the West Mountain.

At sun rise the extremes of the Land from N.E. b E. to W.N.W.

Exceedingly Hazy the Vulcano Mountain N. ½ E.

Light Airs and very Hazy Wr.

The Extremes of the Land from N.W. to E.N.E. The Vulcano Mountain N. b E. ¼ E. off Shore 4 or 5 Leagues. The East Mountain N.E. ¼ E. The weather so very hazy can but just see the upper parts of the Mountains.

[Page 259]

Remarks Monday 24 August 1789.

Light airs and exceedingly Hazy. Scarce able to see the Land.

At sun set the Weather still very hazy & can see no part of the Land distinctly the extremes as far as could be seen was from N.W. ½ W. to E.N.E. and theVulcano Mountain N.E. ½ N. about 4 Leagues off Shore.

Almost Calm.

Cloudy Wr. and a prodigious thick Haze could but just see the Top of the Vulcano Mountain Bearing N.E.

Do. Wr. The Vulcano Mountain N.E. b N. ½ E. off Shore about 4 Leagues Extremes as far as could be seen N.W. b N. to E.N.E.

[Page 260]

[Pages 260 and 261 blank pages.]

[Page 262]

Remarks Monday 24 August 1789.

Light airs and exceedingly Hazy. Scarce able to see the Land.

At sun set the Wr. still very hazy and can see no part of the land distinctly. The extremes as far as could be seen was from N.W. ½ W. to E.N.E. and the Vulcano Mountain N.E. ½ N. about 4 leagues off Shore.

Almost Calm.

Cloudy Wr. and a prodigious thick Haze. Could but just see the Top of the Vulcano Mountain bearing N.E.

Do. Wr. The Vulcano Mountain N.E. b N. ½ E. of Shore about 4 Leagues. Extremes as far as could be seen N.W. b N. to E.N.E.

[Page 263]

Remarks

This is the third day I have been under the Island Flores but the weather is so very hazy that I have not been able to see more than the Tops of the Hills.

My Latitudes both yesterday and today were good and both equally dertermine that the South part of the Island cannot be so far to the South as 9° 00’ for I am certain of being at least 4 Leagues from the Shore.

A dutch map I have been furnished with lies the South part in Latitude 9° 3’ S. abreast of the Vulcano Mountain which is the part I am at present only capable of taking notice of and I consider it to lie in 8° 58’ South.

This Land is very remarkable by the Vulcano Mountain and another like it to the Eastward both of which are very high and regularly formed to a Peak at the Top sloping gradually towards the Base.

I find the Vulcano Mountain to lie in Latitude 8° 50’ So. and Longd. 119° 24’ E.

[Page 264]

Remarks Tuesday 25th August, 1789.

Light Winds and very thick hazy Wr.

At sun set Vulcano Mountain E. b N. ½ N. Extremes of the Land N.W. b W. to East off Shore 3 Leagues.

The Peak on Toorns Island W. b N ¼ N. and the Vulcano Mountain E. b N.

Do. Wr. Toorns Island N.W. ½ W. to N.N.W. and the Peak N.W. ¼ N. 4 Leagues & off Shore 3 or 4 Leagues. Could see no other part of the Coast.

[Page 265]

Remarks

This afternoon gave me a better view of the coast than I have yet had.

The interior parts of the country are Mountainous and cover’d with Wood but towards the Sea it slopes gradually and appears elligible for cultivation. It is here free from Wood except in some Valleys and in those places only we saw several Fires and Smokes.

Round to the Westward of the Vulcano the land falls back into a deep bend and here according to the dutch Map I expected to have seen Toorns Island but to my surprize I saw it not until this morning, which is 13 Leagues to the West of it, and lies off the Coast and not within any part of it as laid down by the dutch.

This Island is very remarkable being cragged and uneven with a curious high peek on the S.W. part of it from whence it slopes to a point. Its extent may be 3 or 4 Leagues in Circuit.

The Haze is again nearly as bad as a Fog for I can only see the parts of the Coast which are the nearest to us.

Latitude of Toorns Island 8° 50’ S. Longd. 118 44 E.

[Page 266]

Remarks Wednesday 26 Augt. 1789.

Light Breezes and thick hazy Wr.

Westermost Land in sight W. ½ N. 5 Leagues & the peak of Toorns Island E. ½ S. 4 Leagues.

Haul’d the wind.

High Land N.N.W. the west extremes set at sun set.

Light airs.

Wore the high Land N.N.E.

Bore away.

The Extremes from N.W. b W. ½ W. to East nearest Shore N.N.E. 4 Miles.

Very hazy Wr. a Sugar Loaf Rock N.N.W. ½ W. 2 Legs. A Hillock which I take to be the West End of Flores on with North part of Rotten Island N.W. ½ N. South point of Rotten Island N.W. b W. and the eastmost Land in sight which I kept off last night E. ½ S. Nearest Shore north 3 or 4 miles.

[Page 267]

Remarks

I steer’d past Toorns Island with a stream in our favour for by guessed distances it appear’d to me that we had gained 3 Leagues in distance by sun set. This Island appear’d to be a very habitable & pleasant spot having low Land round the Shore and covered with Wood except towards the Hills where it was in some places bare which with a romantick rockey Peak of a considerable height formed a very picturesque appearance.

At sun set the westermost land appear’d high and from it towards Toorns Island the land formed in a variety of high Hills & Dales.

At 10 o’clock being being the length of the westermost land seen at sun set & the Coast appearing to fall back very much to the northward I kept on & off all Night lest I might get past the Streights.

At day light I found the Land and the Coast to be very different from what I expected by the Map I have of it. The part I had been off all Night was the East part of a deep bend of the Coast and by 8 o’clock the West part of the same formed with very high Land and a steep Shore. With these parts which I take to be Islands the Coast lay in a N.W. direction formed by several high heads off one of which is a single Sugar Loaf Rock. The inclination of the Coast led me to think I was abreast of Streights Mangaryne & seeing Land in the N.W. b W. I took it for the South point of Rotten Island.

I find the Latitude of Toorns Island to be 8° 50’ So. and Longd. 118 44’ Et. which is 40 Miles to the Westward of the Vulcano Mountain.

[Page 268]

Remarks Thursday 27 Augst. 1789.

Light Winds and very hazy Wr. Met with a strong stream which set us to the S.E.

Extremes of the Land W.N.W. to E. b S. Sugar Loaf Rock N.N.W.

At 6 extremes from W.N.W. to E ½ S. of the nearest Shore N.N.E. 3 Leagues.

Cloudy with a thick haze. At times in strong riplings setting to the Southward.

Extremes from N.W. ¼ N. to E. b N. very thick Fogy Wr.

Light airs and very hazy.

Very Hazy. Extremes N.W. b W. ½ W. 5 Leagues to East about the same distance, the west extreme being the South point of Rotten Island. Sugar Loaf Rock N. ½ E. 3 Leags. The nearest shore set last Evening N.E. b N. ½ N. 2 or 3 Leagues and is the S.E. part of Streights Mangaryn.

[Page 269]

Remarks

Light Winds with Calms caused my situation to alter but very little in the course of this day. We were however frequently drifted about by a tide or current which we frequently got into. This Stream generally set us to the S.E. but when about 3 Leagues from the Shore its strength was not considerable. The haze continued very thick it was therefore only the parts next the Sea that I could get any tolerable view of. The part which I have been nearest to is very high and I believe to be an Island or Islands but perhaps I might not have consider’d it as such if the Map I have, had not Two Islands laid down by rule of thumb off the Coast to the Westward of Toorns Island. To the Westward & Northward of this the Coast formed in a variety of Hills and low Land, but very probably the Coast would not have had this appearance in clear Weather for the haze now hid all the interior parts except at times when we could faintly see high Land at the back of it.

I however believe we are abreast of Streights Mangaryn but the Map gives me no information. Even the Latitude of any part as I have come along is not laid down within 6 Miles of the truth the land being that too far to the Southd. The West extreme I take to be the South part of Rotten Island which divides Streights Sapi and Mangaryn.

I have still two Men ill with intermitting Fevers which being obstinate the Surgeon cannot remove it. I give them 3 Gills of Claret a day when the Fever is off.

[Page 270]

Remarks Friday 28th August 1789.

Light Breezes and very hazy Wr. A strong stream setting to the S.E. as yesterday.

The Extremes of the Land from N.W. b W. to East. Sugar Loaf Rock N.E. off Shore 3 Leagues.

S.E. part of Streights Mangaryn N.E.

Heavy dews.

Light Winds and very hazy.

S.E. part of Streights Mangaryn E. ½ S. South part of the Island Sumbawa W. ½ N. South part of Rotten Island W. b N. distant 4 Miles.

The South End of Rotten Island N.W. ½ W. 3 Miles. East part N.E. 5 Miles and an Island N. ½ E. 3 Miles. Found a strong stream setting to the S.S.E.

Light Breezes and very hazy. South part of the Isld. Sumbawa W.N.W. 5 or 6 Leagues. S.E. part of Streights Mangaryn E. ½ N. 5 Leagues, the Extremes of Rotten Isld. N. ½ E. 4 Leagues to N.E. b E. 2 Leagues, the South part N. ¾ E. distant 6 Miles and an Island on the West part of the Streights N.N.W. ½ W. 4 Leagues.

[Page 271]

Remarks

Towards Night I became more certain that I was abreast of Streights Mangaryn and I would have kept the East Shore on Board but for a strong stream that still set to the S.E. This Streight does not show itself open as represented, but shut up with rather a low land with different formed small Hills many of which I take to be Islands that overlaping each other, close the different passages as well as with the Main Land of Flores. I therefore determined to take Streights Sapi and by daylight in the Morning I was off the S.E. part where soon after the Current again got hold of us and drove us to the Southward. I could at this time see that Streights Mangaryn was full of small Islands but I can say no more of it.

The S.W. and which I believe is also the South part of Rotten Island is a high Isle that is joined to the main one by a Reef of Rocks and therefore is considered as one and the same. Off its south part are two Rockey Lumps and near them a Pillar which makes this Island remarkable but it is not discernable when the Island bears to the Northward of N.W.

By Noon I was set considerably off shore altho a fine Breeze.

In this situation a Stranger cannot mistake the Streights. Rotten Island is a high Body of Land with its extremes rugged and unevan and the Island Sumbawa and Flores are also high and appear’d much alike. In all my discriptions of this Coast it is to be remembered that the Land has been very much cover’d with Haze.

[Page 272]

Remarks Saturday 29th August 1789.

Light Breezes and very hazy Wr., a strong current to the S.S.E.

Fresh Breeze the extremes of Rotten Island North to N.E. b N. distant 4 Leagues.

The extremes as far as could be seen of Sumbawa and Flores from N.W. b W. to E. b N. ½ N. and of Rotten Isld. North to N.N.E. distant 5 Leagues.

Calm with strong Riplings driving us round and round.

Light Airs and very hazy. Steer’d across the Current to try the Flores Shore.

At daylight the extremes of Rotten Island N. b W. ½ W. to N. b E. ½ E. distant 8 Leagues. S.E. part of Streights Mangaryn N.E.

Standing across Mangaryn Streights to get hold of the Flores Shore.

Fresh Breeze and hazy. The Extremes of Mid Channel Isles N.W. to N. ½ E. S.E. part of the Streights S.E. b S. being Sugar Loaf Rock distance 1 Mile, S.E. part of Rotten Island W. ½ N. 2 or 3 Leagues.

[Page 273]

Remarks

Altho a tolerable Breeze of Wind I found the Current so strong that I could not keep hold of the Shore and having it Calm the greatest part of the night I was drove considerably farther from it and torn to pieces with the meeting of Violent Currents setting to the S.S.E. I therefore gave up my intention of going through Streights Sapi and at 2 o’clock in the morning directed my course across the current to get hold of the S.E. shore of Streights Mangaryn where I consider’d from accounts I had a greater chance of Anchorage.

Towards Noon the Wind freshened and I got into a Fairway for entering the Streights but still found a Current acting against me which I hoped to get the better of by keeping in Shore.

The Southermost land towards Toorns Island came on with the S.E. part of the Streights at E. ¾ S. and at the same time the Southert. part of Rotten Island bore W. ¾ N. the distance across here is nearly 5 Leagues so that Rotten Island is to the Northward of any part of the Coast of Flores which proves a considerable error in the dutch Maps.

My Longitude today at Noon is found by protracted bearings since the 23 of this Month and is the Longitude of Streights Mangaryn. The S.E. part lies in Latde. 8° 49’ S. the S.W. part in 8° 46’ South.

From Toorns Island to the S.E. part of Streights Mangaryn is West 15 Leagues.

[Page 274]

Remarks Sunday 30th August 1789.

Fresh Breezes and Hazy Wr. Running through Streights Mangaryn keeping the Main on Board. At ½ past 2 past the narrows about ¼ Mile wide. Many Islands now laid off the Flores Coast away to the N.E.

At 5 the Westermost of the Flores Isles bore East 1½ Mile. The Northermost Isle on that Coast N.E. ¼ E. 4 Leagues. The S.E. part of the Streights S. ½ W. 5 or 6 Leagues. The Extremes of Mid Channel Isles S. ½ W. to S.W. b S. the West extreme being shut on with the Eastermost of Rotten Isles. The Northermost of Rotten Isles N.N.W. ½ W. 4 Miles.

At sun set a very high Mountanious Island opened with north part of Rotten Isles at W.N.W. At 12 Fresh Gales. Large Fires on the north part of Rotten Island and others on the Flores side.

Saw the Island Goenong Apy S.S.W. 4 Leagues.

Fresh Gales and Hazy. Goenong Apy S.S.W. to S. b E. 4 Leagues.

Moderate and hazy. Goenong Apy S.S.E. ½ E. distant 4 or 5 Leagues and Biema Sound S. b W.

[Page 275]

Remarks

By One o’clock I got close under the Flores land and the Wind freshening I enter’d the Streights without difficulty. About N. ½ E. was the course through and the Flores shows without Islands with many Bays & Harbours. A Flat Rocky Islet laying to the Eastward of Mid Channel Isles very conspicuously forms the passage with the Main and is the pass you are to take, but in advancing towards it what before is taken to be the Main will break into a number of Islands through which the Tides run very rapidly. It is therefore to be remembered you take none of those passes if it can be helped but through that only which is formed by the Rocky Islet (on either side of it) is the most convenient and safe.

By this time you are about half through the Streights innumerable Islands lay on your Starboard hand to the N.E. and many others to the Westd. but you are now in a clear open space and the Rocky Islet will be on with the S.E. part of the Streights in that direction you are to bring it as soon as possible and it will carry you the fair pass to sea.

I could get no soundings in any part between 20 & 30 fathoms, there are however many Bays and good Harbours into which a vessel might get on the Flores side but the Country is dreadfully burnt up and desolate. About the Islands also are sandy Bays where a vessel might anchor if necessity requir’d it, yet to say the best for these Streights it is but a very hazardous pass for a Ship.

I have made a Sketch sufficient to show the want of tolerable exactness in the dutch Maps. Much cannot however be expected as I could only get the beargs. with by my hand with a common Steering Compass.

It has not been in my power to observe the variation on this Coast with more exactness than is necessary to steer a course; but I believe it to be so little that it will cause no great error by being totally neglected and have therefore considered the true and Magnetic bearings to be the same.

Rotten Island as it is called by the dutch is as high land as the Isle Flores and its extent is about 6 Leagues from North to South.

What little I saw of Streights Sapi makes it a far preferable pass for Ships to Streights Mangaryn but after all I think a much more eligible tract is neglected by ships from Coupang which is round the East end of Flores between it and the West end of Solo. Yet strange it is that they will sometimes

[Page 276]

take Streights Solo in the West Monsoon bound to Coupang when undoubtedly Streights Sapi is the most proper and convenient. For the Course from Coupang to East end of Flores is N.W. ½ N. and to Streights Sapi W.N.W. But what makes Streights Solo better than Sapi is that there is anchorage and altho’ it is a longer Streight yet I am told ships may safely anchor for the Night if it is necessary.

On the East end of Flores is a Portuguese Settlement and here it forms the narrowest part of the Streights.

[Page 277]

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[Page 278]

Remarks Monday 31th August 1789.

Fresh Breezes and Hazy Wr.

Island Goenong Apy S.E. ½ E.

Goenong Apy E.S.E. 6 Leagues and the westermost Land in sight S.W. b S.

Light airs and fine Night but a cross running current which gives us much trouble.

Extremes of Sumbawa from E.S.E. to W. b S. Goenong Apy E. b S. 10 or 12 Leagues.

Several prows in sight to the Eastward. Very hazy Wr.

Light airs and Calms. Extremes of Sumbawa W. ½ S. to S.E. b E. off Shore 5 Leagues. West Extremes is the North part of Sumbawa and is a very high mountain.

[Page 279]

Remarks

The currents that run here create a very breaking & troublesome sea but we frequently were out of the run of them and had at times smooth Water.

The Island Goenong Apy lies off the N.E. part of Sumbawa, it is of little extent but a very remarkable high mountain. From its appearance I considered it to be the same as I had seen on Sunday Eveng. open with the North part of Rotten Island at W.N.W. but the dutch Maps have it to the N.W., if so the Land then mentioned must be another like Island in Streights Sapi. From a supposed distance Goenong Apy lies in Latitude 8° 06’ South, the Dutch have it in 8° 10’ South.

The North part of Sumbawa is high mountanious land and no other like it on the Coast. At the Foot of this Mountain I have been told are many runs of Water which can be got with ease and that Ships sometimes send their Boats on Shore for it.

Saw several Fires in the Mountains and as those we have seen have been generally very high up in the Country, the Sea Coast perhaps is not much cultivated.

[Page 280]

Remarks Tuesday 1 September 1789.

Calm and very hazy Wr.

Light Breezes, the Extremes of Sumbawa S.E. b E. to W. ½ S. off shore 6 Leagues.

Extremes from W. ½ S. to S.E.

Strong Gales and Weather. Current with a breaking sea.

The high Mountain of Sumbawa South off Shore about 5 Legs.

Several prows about us & one rowing towards us. I ordered all hands to Quarters.

The Extremes of Sumbawa S.E. b S. to S.W. b W. ½ W.

Moderate Breezes and hazy Extremes of Sumbawa S.E. ½ E. to S.W. ½ S. The high Mountain S. b E. off Shore 3 Leags. Island Setonda S.W. ½ W. 4 Leagues.

[Page 281]

Remarks

Being near the High Land of Sumbawa we were frequently subject to Calms and the Currents run with considerable strength and mostly against us.

From the high land of Sumbawa it slopes gradually to the Westward and off the Westermost part appear’d a small Island which the Map calls Setonde [possibly Satonda]. This Island is of a moderate height and between it and the high Land of Sumbawa is a Streight which is called Gallaky. This Streight is however principally formed by an Island of some extent called Pulo Mayo [possibly Pulau Moyo].

To Northward of this lie those remarkable Breakers and Rocks call’d the pater Nosters.

In the Night several prows were rowing about us and as their intentions are said to be sometimes not very peaceable, I muster’d to Quarters on the near approach of one of them, but they past without any notice on either side.

On making the best use of my bearings yesterday Noon and to Day that has laid in my power I find the North part of Sumbawa to lie in Latitude 8° 6’ S. The Dutch have it in 8° 5’ South.

[Page 282]

Remarks Wednesday 2 Septr. 1789.

Light Breezes and Hazy Wr.

The Island Setonda S.S.W. ½ W. 4 Leagues.

Fresh Breezes.

Island Setonda S.S.W.

One prow in sight.

Island Setonda South.

Fresh Gales and hazy.

Island Setonda E.S.E. High Land of Sumbawa S.E. ¾ E. West end of Pulo Mayo S. ½ E. A small Island called Irlatken S. b W. ¼ W. 2 Leagues.

Moderate and hazy Isld. Setonda E. b S. ½ S. 6 leagues, high land of Sumbawa S.E. b E. ½ E. and the low Island Irlatken S. ¾ E. 6 Miles Pulo Mayo S.E. ½ E. to S. b E.

An indifferent observation.

[Page 283]

Remarks

The Island Mayo is land of a very moderate height without being any way remarkable except that it is less mountanious than the other parts of the Coast. Between this Island and some of the southernmost shoals of the Pater Nosters is the narrowest pass all the way to Cape Sandanna (or the East part of Java). The distance is 9 Leagues in the direction of N.W. b W. & S.E. b S. As these shoals are dangerous & ships have been lost on them it is at all times advisable to keep the south shore well on Board. The Latitude of the South part of these shoals according to the Dutch is 7° 47’ So. and the Latitude of Cape Sandanna by the same is 7° 52’ So.

[Page 284]

Remarks Thursday 3 Septr. 1789

Fresh Breezes and Hazy Wr.

Irlatken Island S.E. on with Pulo Mayo distant 6 Leagues and the Norhtermost part of Pulo Mayo E. ½ S. Extremes of Pulo Mayor E. b S. to S.E. b E. ½ E.

Saw the High Mountain of the Island Lombock S. b. W.

Several Prows in sight.

Fair Wr. & Hazy. Wind variable as to strength. The high Mountain of Lombock S. b E. 10 Leagues and the extremes from S.E. ½ S. to S.W. ½ S. off shore 5 Leagues.

[Page 285]

Remarks

A stranger may soon become acquainted with the different Islands in this route as they have in general remarkable Mountains to know them by.

On the North part of Lombock is a high Mountain which sufficiently particularizes the Island. Between it and the West end of Sumbawa is called Streights Alles. North 3 Leagues from the shore of Lombock lies a Bank called Schlder but whether it is dangerous or only a fishing Bank I do not know.

[Page 286]

Remarks Friday 4 Septr. 1789

Fair Wr. and Hazy.

The extremes of Isld. Lombock S.E. ¼ E. to S.W. ¼ W. and the High Mountain S. b E. off shore 4 Leagues. Saw the high Peak of the Island Bali W. ½ S.

The high Mountain of Lombock S.E. b S.

The extremes of Lombock from S.E. b E. ½ E. to S.W. b S. and the high Mountain S.E. b S.

Got everything up from below and clean’d fore & aft.

Light winds and Fair Wr. The high peaked Mountain of Island Bali W. b S. ¾ S. Lombock from S.E. ½ E. to S.W. ½ S. off shore 4 Leagues, could not see the high Mountain.

[Page 287]

Remarks

At sun set we saw a very high Mountain formed at the Top with a very sharp peak which seemed to be higher than the Mountain of Lombock. This peak’d Mountain lies on the N.E. part of the Island Bali. Lombock is cover’d with Wood and in the night we saw several fires high up on the Mountains.

Several prows have been in sight but none of them have come near us.

While I was to the southward of the land, the dews where exceedingly heavy every night but since we have been on this side, the nights have been totally free of it, and the weather in general considerably hotter.

Plenty of Fish, very few Birds.

[Page 288]

Remarks Saturday 5th Septr. 1789

Light winds and fair Wr. with frequent calms.

Extremes of Island Lombock E.S.E. to S.W. ½ W. off off shore 3 Leagues Peak of Bali W.S.W. ¼ W.

Saw several Fires in the Mountains.

Extremes of Lombock S.W. ½ E. to S.W. The high mountain S. b W. off shore about 4 Leagues Peak Bali W. b S. ½ S.

The main mast sprung in two places about 12 & 14 feet above deck. Fished it.

The Extremes of Lombock from S.E. b E. to S.W. dist. off shore about 3 Leagues. Peak of Bali W. b S. ½ S.

[Page 289]

Remarks

Our possition to day altered but very little and as we had but little hopes of more wind I directed a Bamboo to be got up for a Topmast so as to enable me to set more Sail. In doing this the main mast sprung in Two places and it took us all the forenoon to Fish and make it serviceable again. I was obliged to put up with this bad mast because there was no other to be got at Coupang.

An obstinate intermiting Fever still hangs on two of my men but all the rest of us continue in good Health.

Untill sun down the Day continues very sultry and hot.

[Page 290]

Remarks Sunday 6 Septr. 1789

At sun set the Extrem’s of Island Lomblock E.S.E. to S.W. ½ W. and the Peak of Bali W. b S. off shore 3 miles.

Saw several Prows.

Saw several Fires in the Mountains.

The current having a set into Streights Lombock I steer’d to the Northward.

Fresh Gales and Hazy Wr.

The high Land of Lombock S.E.

The West part of Lombock S. b E. and the peak of Bali S.W. ½ W.

The Extremes of Island Bali S. b E. ½ E. to W. b S. ½ S. off shore 4 or 5 Leagues. The peak S. ¾ W. and the high Land of Lomblock S.E. b E. ¾ E.

[Page 291]

Remarks

The calm continued all the Afternoon during which we drifted with a Current to the Westward and in shore with all so that at sun down I was not more than 3 miles from it and consider that my distance at Noon (ye 5) was tolerably exact to be computed at 3 Leagues from the Northermost Land. According to that therefore I compute the Latitude to be 8° 15’ South which nearly agrees with the dutch map.

A fresh Gale happily succeeded the Calm and by Noon we were as far to the West as the East part of Bali. In crossing Streights Lombock the current run very strong to the Northward and made a troublesome breaking sea.

Bali now began to shew itself with four high Mountains, but that which has been set and called the Peak lies on the N.E. part and is the highest.

The high Land of Lombock now appear’d higher than Bali & a part of it made as a very sharp Peak’d Mountain.

Streights Lombock is formed by Lombock and Bali.

[Page 292]

Remarks Monday 7th Septr. 1789

Fresh Gales and hazy Wr.

Extremes of Bali S.E. ½ S. to S.W. and the peak S.S.E. off shore 4 Leagues.

Less Wind, Extremes of Bali S.E. to W.S.W. peak S.E. b S. off shore 4 or 5 Leagues and the high land of Cape Sundana W. ½ N.

Light Wind & fair Wr.

Moderate and hazy Wr.

The Extremes of Bali S.S.W. to S.E. ½ E. the peak S.E. The Extremes of Java from S.W. to S. b S. b ½ S., the Westermost being near Cape Sundana.

Fresh Breezes and Cloudy Cape Sundana S. b W. ¾ W. about 5 Leagues and the Extremes of Java S. b W. to W. b S. ½ S.

[Page 293]

Remarks

Towards night we lost the fair Breeze and untill daylight it remained rather off the Land and continued more so as it freshned after sun rise.

In the Evening the High Land of Cape Sundana (which is the N.E. part of Java) appear’d as a high Island, and by Noon many high mountains appeared in the Island Java. As usual on crossing the other Streights we found a cross running sea when we came abreast of Streights Bali.

Cape Sundana is a low flat Cape that runs off the high Land already described. The dutch map I have lays it down in Latde. 7.52 So., if that is the case I was much farther off shore than I have supposed, but I scarce believe there could be more than 14 Miles difference of Latitude between me and the Cape in which case its Latitude would be 7° 46’ So. I see Hamilton Moore lies it down in 7.42 South.

By my bearings and computed distance of Cape Sundana and by the time it bore true South of me the followg. afternoon its Long. is 110° 18’ E. By Hamilton Moore it is 114° 30’ E.

[Page 294]

Remarks Tuesday 8th Septr. 1789

Fresh Breezes and Hazy. Cape Sundana true South.

Cape Sundana S.S.E. ½ E.

Cape Sundana S.E. off shore 3 Leagues and High Cockscomb Hill near Besockie W.S.W. westermost land in sight W. b S. ½ S. 3 or 4 Leagues. Several large Fires.

Passed a Prow.

Cockscomb Hill S. ½ W.

Calm Wr.

Extremes of Java E. b S. ½ S. to W.S.W. Cockscomb Hill S. ½ E.

15 prows in sight.

Calm and hazy Wr. High Land of Cape Sandana E. b S. ½ S., Cockscomb Hill South distance off shore 3 Leagues. Westermost Land in sight S.W. b W. ½ W. and the land about the Eastermost part of Madura from N.W. b W. to North.

[Page 295]

Remarks

In the Afternoon a high detach’d Hill shew itself & resembled the Comb of a Cock. I new this by information I got at the Cape of Good Hope and by the map I have to be near a settlement a little to the westward of it called Besockia. As one half of these 24 Hours were Calm, I was only abreast of it at Noon, and the Land about the East part of Madura was in sight and also a great many prows that appeared coming from that coast.

The interior parts of Java are here very Mountanious but towards the shore it is low and the whole appeared to be a fertile country.

In the course of the day we saw a number of circular streaked water snakes and during the Calm a prodigious quantity of white spots like Shirt Buttons which on being taken up proved to be a kind of blubber with a firm body perfectly circular and equally intersected through the center with innumerable diameters and parrallel circles round the Body were many fibrous feeders of a fine blue colour but were so delicate that on being touched they seperated from the body, those were scarce perceptible when in the water.

Many Fish were seen but very few Birds.

I still continue to have two men ill with intermitting Fevers. All I can do for themn at present is by giving them a little wine when the Fever is off.

[Page 296]

Remarks Wednesday 9 Septr. 1789

Moderate Breezes and Hazy Wr.

The Cockscomb Hill S.E. b S. off Shore 2 Leagues.

The Cockscomb Hill S. b W. ½ W. off shore 4 Miles and the Extremes of Java E. ½ S. to W. ½ S. Many fires abreast of us. Sounded every half hour. Light variable winds.

Heard the sound of the surf.

Java E. b S. to S.S.W.

Fresh Breezes.

Extremes of Java E. to W. b S. ½ S. off shore 3 Leagues. Cockscomb Hill S.W. b S. 6 or 7 Leagues.

Several Prows in sight. Soundings 17 fathoms. Soft ozey bottom.

[Page 297]

Remarks

This Day has shewn or given to me little more knowledge of the Coast of Java than that it appears to have a low shore free of any dangers with a high mountanious Country at the back of it.

I found soundings of 17 fathoms about 3 Leagues off a fine ozey bottom and at Noon I had nearly the same, when I supposed myself about 8 Miles from the Shore.

I intended before to day to have steered to the N.W. for the western part of Madura to have stopt at Crissey or Surabyah to get water but it being an article I am in want of & seeing the run of Light Variable Winds and Weather, I determined to touch at Passerwang, a Dutch settlement on the Western part of this Shore. I therefore directed my attention to find out this place as I have accounts that it affords good refreshments of every kind.

If I may judge from supposed distances the part of the Coast to day is to the Northward of Cape Sandana, for on the 7th I set it 5 Leags. to the Southward and I have continued since that in the Latde. of 7° 32’ South but the comparative distances of yesterday and today Noon make this part of the Coast in a like parallel about 7° 40’ but this hereafter I may more particularly be able to determine.

By my Account I have made 86 Miles of Westing from Cape Sundana.

[Page 298]

Remarks Thursday 10 Septr. 1789

Fresh Breezes.

The Extremes from E.S.E. to West and the Land of Madura N. b W. to N. b E ½ E.

The high mountain of Passerwang W.S.W. & the extremes of the Land S.E. ¼ E. to W. b N. off shore 2 Leags. Soundgs. 13 fathoms.

At ½ past 7 came to an Anchor in 5 fathoms and at day light the Land bore as follows. The High Mountain of Passerwang W. b S. ½ S. a smaller one to the northd. of it, W. ½ S. a Javanese Villiage, S. b W. ¾ W. 3 miles a high Mountain at the back of it S. ¾ W., Eastermost point of the road and Eastermost Land in sight S.E. ¾ E. 5 or 6 Miles, Passerwang Villiage West 4 Miles.

Sent the Launch on Shore.

Launch returned, many prows about, bought a few Fish.

Light Breezes, Weighed and stood for Passerwang road.

Do. Wr. Passerwang S.W. ½ W. 3 Miles the Eastermost land E. b S. the North Westermost N.W., High Mountain of Passerwang W. b S.

[Page 299]

Remarks

Towards evening I discovered that the coast of Java trended to the Northward and that the Land in the S.W. was exceedingly low. I was therefore confident of being nearly as far West as Passerwang and for that reason I haul’d in shore and Anchor’d for the Night.

At day light I sent a Boat on Shore at a Villiage to know where the residence of the Governor was and by that means I found it was only a Javanese Town and that the Bessar (as they call’d him) lived at a place about 4 miles to the West. Having got this information I weighed.

As I steered towards the shore the soundings shoal’d very gradually & the bottom was of a soft ozey kind in which an Anchor burys itself in a few hours and is difficult to be got up.

The Island of Madura joining nearly with Java to the West forms as an extensive Gulf in the Cod of which the Land is so low that with a strong Easterly Gale a Stranger may be embarassed before he is aware of it. The only warning therefore, is to attend to the ending of the high land (if he keeps the Java Shore on board) and he will see Two remarkable Mountains the one makes with rather two peaks and is considerably larger than the other one to the Northward which is rather like a Sugar Loaf. Here the High Land ends and the Coast inclines Northward.

There is another high land to the Eastward of those which bore from me at Anchor S. ¾ W. this therefore as it cannot be mistaken (for here I saw no other) will give you due warning of your being advanced near to Passerwang.

[Page 300]

Remarks Friday 11 Septr. 1789

Light Breezes and Hazy Wr. Came to an Anchor in 2 fathoms water off Passerwang 1½ mile from the Shore. The High Mountain W.S.W. a smaller one which is the Northermost high Land W. ½ S. Rivers Mouth S.W. 1¾ mile. The Commandants House S.S.W. ¾ W., the High Mountain at the back of the villiage I anchor’d at before S. ½ E. and the East pts. of the Road E. b S. Could see low land as far as N.W. b N. I went on shore, sent off 2 Puncheons and a half of Water.

Fresh breezes and thick Hazy Wr.

Light Breezes. Recd. a Bullock, some Arrack and Cocoanutts.

A pilot on Board.

Do. Wr. I weighed and sailed for Sourabya.

[Page 301]

Remarks

I had no sooner weighed than I found my soundings shoal rapidly and that a bank of about 2 fms. lay full 1½ & 2 miles from the shore. I therefore anchor’d with a black sandy point to the S.W. within which I saw a swirl and of course knew it to be the entrance of a River. A few Malay Hutts were on it and among some trees at the back of it appear’d some white Walls which proved to be Passerwang. This with what I have already said and the bearings of the Mountains and the Latitude is all the directions necessary to know this place by. The road however for shiping must be governed by the depth of Water.

It was near 2 o’clock when I got to the River’s Mouth, the tide was then flowing but it was necessary for all the people to get out and track the Boat near a half Mile. The River however had sufficient depth when we got in but of all miserable and horrible looking places I think this was the worst I ever saw. The Banks were mud covered but even sparingly with mangrove bushes among these run a few Hogs and as many were laying about dead and the most dreadfull of all smells almost suffocated me. I now had recourse to a Malay to shew me the Town in the midst of vexation for having come here but after traversing a very serpentine course for a quarter of an hour I found a pleasant and delightfull Country.

I now landed near a small but apparently well constructed Fort and from thence was conducted to the residents House where I was received in a most friendly & polite manner by Adriaan Van Rye, Capitaine Lieutenant et Commandant.

Water, arrack, a small Bullock with some Coconutts and everything I was in want of was immediately sent on board by this Gentleman and he also directed a pilot to take me to Sourabya as no vessel was allowed to lie in this road any longer than to get on Board what necessaries were absolutely wanted.

[Page 302]

During mny stay I had the pleasure of seeing the Country in the environs of Passerwang and found it to be well cultivated and a most agreeable situation. As Mr. Van Rye did me the favor to order his voiture for my convenience and to accompany me I learnt that the principal produce was rice of which large quanties were exported. The Europeans are but few here, the Javanese are however numerous and the whole form a busy and well regulated settlement. The Country except far back is Champaign and the Roads are wide and well made connecting the settlements by East and West. Posts are also regular so that Letters are speedily delivered throughout all their Cantons.

TheHouses are neatly built and well calculated for the Country and the Chief of the Javanese lives with considerable pomp and in the midst of Luxury and ease.

Legumes of all kinds are here in the greatest perfection and I eat at Mr. Van Rye’s Table as fine Potatoes as ever were produced in Europe. This is an Article I never saw in any perfection in our West India Islands and I have heard it asserted that when planted there they ever acquire a sweet taste in some Degree & scarce ever grow to any size.

Vessels of two or three Hundred Tons are built here but the Road where Ships must lie is 3 or 4 Miles from the shore and the River is barr’d with only 7 or 9 feet Water at the springs so that for shipping this place is inconvenient. The River is from 30 to 50 yards wide.

Towards Noon I took my leave of the Resident who accompanied me to the Water side with every degree of politeness & attention and at 12 o’clock I sailed for Sourabya.

[Page 303]

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[Page 304]

Remarks Saturday 12 Septr. 1789

Light Breezes and Hazy Wr. Soundings in working off the Flat 2, 3 & 4 fathoms, deepen’d from 4 to 8 & 10 fms.

Deepened from 10 to 15, 12 & 13 fathoms. The Town of Passerwang now bore S. b E. about 7 miles. To 6 o’clock soundings from 12 to 5 fathoms when Passerwang bore S. ½ E., Villiage Mountain S. b E. and the extremes of Java S.E. to N.N.W. At 8 o’clock Fresh Breezes. Regular soundings from 6 o’clock 5 fathoms. Regular soundings from 8 o’clock 4½, 3 & 2½ fms. Came to an Anchor.

The Moon being up and the Tide running to the N.W. Weighed. Carried 3 fathoms until ½ past 6 when it being calm came to in 2½ fathoms. Madura E. to W.N.W. off shore 6 miles & Java W. to S.W. b W.

Killed the Bullock and served one half of it to all hands.

Very light airs and a small stream to the N.W. Weighed. Soundings 2½ fms. The Wr. exceedingly thick and Hazey. Bearings as at Anchor.

[Page 305]

Remarks

The shoal Water that I have been in is owing to an extensive Bank which lies off the low land of Java between Passerwang and Madura. It lies full 3 Leagues in some places from Java and extends within 2 or Madura. It is therefore necessary with a large vessel to keep Passerwang in the S.S.W. untill well in with the Madura shore.

The Land of Java from Passerwang Mountains is exceedingly low so that unless the weather is clear it cannot be seen when at 4 or 5 Leagues distant. Madura is also rather low than otherwise however there are some rising Grounds so that you can see it in time in the Night.

I observed a small stream to the N.W. at 2 o’clock but I found none afterwards that I can speak of with certainty.

[Page 306]

Remarks Sunday 13th Septr. 1789

Light Breezes and hazy Wr. Soundings until 3 o’clock 2½ fms. and then 1½ mile from Madura shore I had on 9 feet water.

Bore away for Sourabya deepened to 3 and 3½ fms. To 5 o’clock carried 3 to 5 fms.

To 6 o’clock Do. 6, 7, 4, 3, 5, 7, 10, 11, 10 & 8 fathoms. I now Anchord in Surabya Road in 7 Fathoms.

The Flag staff S. ¼ W. one mile of shore Crissey N.W. b W. about 4 Miles, Extremes of Madura N.W. ¼ W. to E. ½ N. The East point of the Road 2 or 3 Miles distant on with the East extreme of Madura.

Found riding here seven square Rigged Vessels with 14 sail of Sloops and large prows.

At day light I was guarded by 3 Guarda Coasters.

I had now leave to Land. Served fresh Meat.

Do. Wr. The Latitude at Noon was observed by the Master. An Horizon about 5 Miles.

[Page 307]

Remarks

It is to be observed that in standing towards Madura to cross the Streight which every vessel must pass through I only found 2½ fathoms water which with allowing 2 feet for the Lead and strap makes only 17 feet & that I was in 9 feet water a 1½ from Madura shore. At this time you will see distant land to the Westward like an Island and higher than any other part and is Crissey.

In standing along Madura Shore to the Westward you will deepen to 3, 3½ fms. very soon and when you get the length of the nearest part of Java with Madura you are at Sourabya Road having found soundings as in the Log.

Off Sourabya lies an extensive shoal bank a 1½ or 2 Miles from the shore, it is therefore necessary to keep the East point of the Road and the land of Madura well open.

The land is very low and the Town of Sourabya lies 1½ Mile from the waterside. The Flag Staff can only be seen. The bottom is very fine in all places.

The restriction I was put under in not being suffered to land was owing to some General orders given to the Commander of theprows (or Guarda Costers) concerning stranger Vessels.

[Page 308]

Remarks Monday 14 Septr. 1789

Fresh Breezes and hazy Wr.

Prows left us. Found the Tide to rise on the Bank. Tide still running from the Harbour.

A prow brought on board a supply of Water. A strong Tide running from the East’d & is the Flood.

Clear and fine Night. Tide set out from the River.

Sent the Launch on Shore.

Tide running from the Eastward. Served fresh Meat.

Fresh Breezes and Hazy Wr.

Latd. Obsd. by the Master 7° 10’ So.

[Page 309]

Remarks in Sourabya Road, Tuesday Septr. 15th 1789

Fresh Breezes and hazy Wr.

Found the Tide to rise on the Bank.

Strong Tide from the Eastward. Recd. on Board 28 Bags of Rice, 1 Bag of Salt, 1 Breaker and a half of Arrack and a small Bullock.

The Tide came out of the Harbour.

Tide strong from the Westward.

Sent the Launch on shore.

Served Fresh Beef and Greens.

Tide from the Eastward.

Fresh Breezes and hazy Wr.

[Page 310]

Remarks Wednsday 16th Septr. 1789 in Sourabya Road

Fresh Breezes and Hazy. I returned on board in the Master Attendant’s Boat accompanied by him and the Commandant des Troupes, C.A.C. de Bose.

At 2 o’clock they left me and I ordered the Anchor to be hove up. A Tumult now took place among my Officers on which I confined the Master and Carpenter. Hailed the Master Attendant’s Boat and they returned and I took the Offenders on Shore under an arrest. Each was confined to seperate Rooms, and the Governor directed 3 Guarda Costers to convoy me safe to Samaran which were to be ready by the next day.

This Busyness detained me and this morning the examination came on, see Rems. following.

Do. Wr.

Latde. by Mr. Hayward 7° 12’ So.

[Page 311]

Remarks Thursday 17th Septr. 1789 in Sourabya Road

Fresh Breezes and Hazy Wr.

Fresh Gales.

Bearings at Anchor. Crissey Flag Staff W. ¼ S., 72 Cables length Distant, in 1½ fms. East point road S. b E. ½ E. East part of Madura E. b S. ½ S. Found a large Indiaman here pierced for 60 Guns called the Holland from Banda and several Brigs and other Vessels.

Latde. obsd. by Mr. Hayward, 7° 9’ South
Longde. by account, 108° 23’ Ed.
Longde. made, 13° 28’

Recd. a Bullock. Killed the one recd. on the 15th and serv’d fresh meat.

At this time I returned on Board accompanied with the Commandant des Troupes and Master Attendant who after taking their leave I sailed. Three Guarda Costos in Compy. Master on board one, and the Carpenter on board another.

At Noon came too off Crissey pier. I went on Shore.

[Page 312]

Particular transactions at Sourabya.

Having arrived at this place I found it necessary to ask farther assistance for a pilot to carry me to Batavia and as I might get some refreshments (having it not in my power to take a large quantity at a time) it was a farther inducement to me for I had now four Men ill. I therefore anchor’d in this Road as per Log.

On the following morning I landed and was received in a most friendly manner by the Governor (or Opperhooft) Mr. Anthony Barkay who shewed every politeness and attention to the Commission I bore, attended with a peculiar civility which demand my public acknowledgement.

His information and advise equally led me to determine to wait until this day (Wednesday P.M.) because in the first instance the Coast was not free of Piratical Vessels of force and that in the second a pilot would be necessary to expediate my voyage as well as to know these enemies when they approached, besides a vessel as to sail with whom I might keep company.

In this interval I lived with Mr. Barkay and a Mr. de Bose the Commandant des Troupes who also became equally interested for my safe arrival in Europe & who has also a just right to my particular thanks.

I now took my leave of these Gentlemen and several others who had done me the honor to show me every politeness and attention but Mr. de Bose and the Master Attendant would accompany me on board in a Commodious Boat which they had ordered to be ready for that purpose. I therefore ordered my own off to the Vessel with a small Bullock, some poultry and Vegetables which Mr. Barkey had sent to me as a Sea Store.

On my passing down the River I saw the Boat had not proceeded off as I had ordered. I therefore sent the Boatkeeper away with directions for them to follow me.

The Boat Crew were Wm. Peckover Gunner, Wm. Purcell Carpenter, Wm. Elphinston Master’s Mate, Wm. Cole Boatswain, Jno. Hallet Mid, Thos. Hayward Mid, and Peter Linkletter Ab. Mr. Hayward put them in mind of their disobeydeance of orders and threatned to take the Boat off without them. They abused him and called him a Lackay because he would not do as they did.

[Page 3103

Soon after I got on board the Boat came off and I directed the anchor to be taken up and the Commandant with the Master Attendant took their leave. They had scarce got to the Shore when I heard some of my people complain that there was someone below that would not work and upon enquiry I found Wm. Elphinston Mate and John Hallet Midshipman were those that were murmured at. They were both beastly drunk. I therefore asked the Master what was the cause of his carrying on duty in such a manner and the reason why he did not see these Officers on deck, when he most insolently answer’d, I don’t know.

Quesn. – Are they drunk or Ill, or what is thematter with them?
Ansr. – Am I a Doctor? Ask him what is the matter with them.
Quesn. – What do you mean by this insolence?
Qnsr. – It is no insolence. You not only use me Ill but every Man in the Vessel and every Man will say the same.

A muttering now began among those who had hold of the Cable. Yes by God we are used damned Ill nor have we any right to be used so, was a cry among some of them. The Carpenter now became Spokesman and with a daring and Villainous look uttered the above expressions who with the Master’s sneers and provocation in supporting their cause by saying I had used him Ill and everybody on Board made an open tumult. The Complaint was that they had paid for the carriage of some things to the Boat. This since appeared to be four doits equal to one penny. The cause was that the opperhooft had sent me vegetables and other things by his Slaves to be carried to the Boat, but meeting with these people at the House they were drinking at [and] they detained the things there and the Slaves returned to their Master, of course it rested with themselves to get the things to the Boat, which it appears they paid a penny for. I therefore seized a Bayonet and instantly put the Master and Carpenter below and then hailed the Commandant to return which he did.

I now turned every one before him, but before any questions were asked he with the Master Attendant Mr. Bonza told me that they believed I had some Villains about me who I did not suspect for that in their way to the Shore their Coxwain had told them. My Officers & Men had spread a report that I should be hanged or blown

[Page 314]

from the Mouth of a Cannon as soon as I got home. Alarmed at such a disgraceful account, I desired that every one might be asked if he had said it and the person who had told the Coxwain of it had come on board with my Mutinous Fellows so it fortunately happened that the parties were face to face.

The Commandant now insisted on this person to point out those who had told him, and he fixed on Wm. Purcell (Carpenter) accusing generally the whole. It happened that as the few common Men I had were Sick, the Boat’s Crew consisted of Officers, among whom were Thomas Hayward Midshipman. This young Gentleman having not heard of the villainous expression and shocked at such a degree of infamy in the guilt of which he was from the account equally involved with the others, flew into my Arms beseeching me that I would not believe he could be possibly guilty of such infamy and ingratitude, and after shedding a torrent of Tears, dared any one to assert he was guilty of any such Baseness or in the least degree privy to it alledging at the same time that he never but when he was obliged had any conversation with any one on board for he believed they had not good principals. The Honor and integrity of this young man made the Wretches bout him tremble and having gained my good wishes his grief subsided.

These disgracefull things having past on Shore and my Character and Honor at stake in a Country from whence I could only receive assistance to return to England, I desired the Commandant to make inquiry who had any complaints to make against me, and I laid my injunctions with orders that those who had were to go into the boat to lay such charges before the Governor.

Thomas Dunman Ledward acting Surgeon, John Hellet [Hallet ?] Midshipman and William Cole Boatswain now presented themselves and went into the Boat, the others having denied that they had anything to say against me.

I now ordered the Master and Carpenter into the Boat as prisoners & with the others we returned to the Shore, for I now no longer found my Honor or person safe among these people, besides it became absolutely necessary

[Page 315]

to convict these fellows where they had presumed to traduce the character of their Commander.

On my arrival on shore I wrote to the Governor Mr. Bay [Barkay] the following letter or rather Certificate to authorise him to enquire into the cause of this tumult &c., &c.

Sourabya 15 Septr. 1789

This is to Certify that I have solicited (in the name of the King of Great Britain) the premier of this place to cause to be detained under an arrest and from hence to be immediately sent to Batavia and there to be ready to embark with me on my arrival for Europe, two Officers under the Names of John Fryer Master and Wm. Purcell Carpenter who have acted tumultuously on board His Britannick Majesty’s Schooner Resource.

Also to cause three others, Thomas Ledward acting Surgeon, John Hallet Midshipman and Wm. Cole Boatswain to be brought on shore and examined they having declared that they could witness against their Commander, who on that account as a British Officer to prove his honor request that a publick enquiry may be made.

Wm. Bligh

To Mr. Anthony Barkay
Opperhoofd at Sourabya.

A court was ordered in the Morning to enquire into the Busyness and at my request they were all seperately confined. The Master and Carpenter as Prisoners for tryal when I arrived in Europe but the others to hear their Complaints. Mr. Barkay also ordered four Prows to be got ready to guard me round to Samarang as I lost the advantage of sailing with the Ship.

Wednesday A.M.

This Morning came on the Examination of Cole, Hallet and Ledward, before the Commandant des Troupes, His Brother a Captain and the Master Attendant when the following questions were put to John Hallet Midshipman.

Q. Have you any thing to say against your Captain
A. He beat me once at Otahiete
Q. For what reason
A. Because I was not got into the Boat

[Page 316]

Q. Why did not you go into the Boat?
A. The Water was too deep.
Q. Have you no other complaint against your Captain?
A. None.
Q. Have you received your provisions & every thing that is allowed you?
A. Yes except that since the 3rd Septr. 1789 I have not recd. all my Arrack, but that the Captain told the Clerk I should have double for when I got to Batavia.
Q. Why did you then say to an English Sailor now in the service of Holland at this place that it would not go well with your Captain when he returned to England he having ill treated every person under his Command for which reason he would be tied to the mouth of a Cannon & fired into the air?
A. I do not know that I said any such thing and if I did utter such an expression, I was drunk when I did it, and I most humbly ask your forgiveness for it, and beg that I may have leave to return to England with you.
Q. Do you not think the Captain has done his duty in every respect to your knowledge?
A. Yes.
Q. Is he brutal or severe so as to give cause of Complaints?
A. No.
Q. Has he not to your knowledge [knowledge] taken every pains to preserve his Ship’s Company?
A. Yes.
Q. Was it possible for him to have retaken his Ship or could he have done more than he did?
A. I think not.

Signed. John Hallet Junior

Examination of Thos. Denman Ledward

Ques. Have you anything to say against your Captain.
A. I have nothing to say against my Captain only the first time the Boat went on Shore I ask’d leave to go with him & was refused until he came on board again.

[Page 317]

Q. Have you received your provisions and every other thing allowed you?
A. Yes.

Questions by the Captain

Q. Have I behaved brutal or severe so as to give cause of complaint?
A. No.
Q. Have not I taken every pains to preserve my Ship’s Company?
A. Yes in a very great degree.
Q. Was it possible for me to have retaken the Ship or could I have done more than I did.
A. No certainly not.

Signed. Thos. Denman Ledward.

Examination of Wm. Cole, Boatswain

Q. Have you any thing to say against your Captain?
A. I alledge no particular complaint against you, God forbid.
Q. Have you received your provisions and every other thing allowed you?
A. Yes I have.

Questions by the Captain

Q. Have I behaved brutal or severe so as to give cause of complaint.
A. No.
Q. Do you think I have done my duty as an Able Officer in every respect.
A. Yes I do.
Q. Was it possible for me to have retaken the Ship or could I have done more than I did.
A. No.
Q. Do you not think I have done every thing to preserve the Health of the People and Officers.
A. Yes you certainly have.
Q. Do you think that by any means I could have prevented the Ship being taken from me.
A. No I do not think it was possible.

Signed. Wm. Cole

[Page 318]

So each of those declarations the Commandant des Troupes & Master Attendant have certified to the truth of the proceedings – see Original papers.

The examination being over I dismissed these wretches and ordered them on Board.

Thursday P.M.

This afternoon the Commandant told me that the Master who was in confinement had been showing a paper and had shown it to him brought from Timor signed by the Opporhooft Wm. Adriaan Van Este signifying the prices of Provisions and other things I bought there for His Majesty’s Service for which I had made extravagant charges to Government as this paper would prove and that I would be roughly handled for it on my return to England. Also that I had given my Ship’s Company short allowance of Yams and therefore had taken away the Ship.

I had nothing more to do to show the villainy of this Man and the improper and unwarrantable conduct of Van Este in laying a plot with an iferior [inferior] Officer to entrap his Commander, than to show my papers in which were receipts and vouchers for all my transactions in Timor signed by the Master and Boatswain and witness’d by two respectable Residanters.

The Carpenter asserted also that the cause of the Ship being taken was owing to my stoping provisions. The villainy of these reports very readily proves itself. For as to stoppage of Provisions or giving short allowance had it been so was no gains to me as for all such stoppages, Every Seaman receives money for it on their return to England. It however is sometimes necessary for the good of the Service and at this time I found it absolutely so to give 2/3 allowance of Bread because that article I was short of in proportion to other species of Provisions and I had to guard against a failure of making my passage through Endeavour Streights.

As to the Yams, it happened that on my arrival at the Friendly Islands our Stock of Plantains, Flour and Yams was so far expended that only 1½ lbs were issued to each person for that day but the day following we had abundance of every thing & from my departure to the time of the Mutiny

[Page 319]

2 lbs of Yams each day were served to every individual which is legal and sufficient for any man whatever, but in all my Weights all dirt decayed parts and every thing not eatable was carefully thrown away so that it was ever a principal with me that Weights should be real that my people might suffer no loss. Conscious therefore of my integrity these assertions gave me little concern and before Night I was by Letter from the Master solicited to forgive him and to take him on board again to which I made no reply. The letter was exactly as follows.

Sir

I understand by what the Commandant says that Matters can be settled. I wish to make every thing agreeable as far as lay in my power that nothing might happen when we came home: as I have done every thing in my power as far I knows to do my duty & would still wish to do it, therefore if matters can be made up I beg you will forward it.

Sir

I am your most Obedient Humble Servant,
Jno. Fryer

Septr. 16th 1789

Thursday A.M.

This Morning I gave directions for the Master to be sent on Board one of the prows and the Carpenter on board another when I received a Message from the Master by the Commandant who he sent for beseeching him to prevail upon me to see him. On whose account I returned for answer –

Sir

Having been informed by the Commandant of this place that you want to see me, I must inform you that being on the point of going on board and having many things to do I cannot possibly comply with your request. If you have anty thing to communicate you must write to me on the Busyness and as you will go in a Vessel that will be also under my orders, you can at all times represent your situation.

I am your Hble. Servt.
Wm. Bligh

Sourabya 17 Septr. 1789

In answer to the above.

[Page 320]

Sir

I have received yours saying that you cannot possibly find time tospeak to me. I most humbly beg of you to grant me that favour if possible it can be done. I likewise beg of you to take me with you if you confine me in Irons. I will make every concession that you think proper.

Sir, I am your Humble Servant
Jno. Fryer

17th Septr. 1789

In Company with the Commandant, Captain Bose, the Master Attendant and Mr. Samuels my Clerk, I saw the Master when like a villain who had done every mischief he could and going to receive punnishment for it he trembled look’d pale and humbly asked to be forgiven declaring he would make every concession & disavowal of the infamous reports that he spread. That he would give every reparation I pleased to ask, but I ordered him away on board the prow telling him that he was to converse no other way with me but by writing and that all his concessions & disavowal of what he had already asserted must be by Letter.

I now took my leave of the Governor who told me the Prows where ready to obey my orders and with a pilot to conduct me to Samarang where I could get further assistance to conduct me to Batavia which he said was necessary as the Coast was infested with Piratical Vessels from Borneo & other Islands.

I was accompanied on board with much politeness by the Commandant, Monr. de Bose and Master Attendant where I found another small Bullock with many small things such as Butter, Cakes and Eggs and in short what was thought by Mr. Barkay’s family would be agreeable to me on my passage.

It was however much more than I was in want of, but they felt so much for my late situation together with a natural hospitality that it appeared a peculiar pleasure to them to render me every assistance.

Amidst the trouble I have had among the Mutinous pack of people about me it was not possible to make many observations at this pretty settlement of Sourabya. I however saw enough of it to say it is the pleasantest and most agreeable little Villiage I ever saw.

[Page 321]

It is situated about a Mile and half from the Waterside close to a River which is navigable for Vessels of a Hundred tons or more where the Banks on one side are raised and made convenient for Men or Cattle to track all vessels up to the Town which is Garrisoned and very well fortified.

The Chinese Camp or Town is on the opposite side of the River and here those industrious people supply the wants of the Europeans.

The Javans are numerous and their place of abode more towards the Country. There are two Chiefs that live in great stile and pomp to whom I paid an afternoon’s vissit in Company with Mr. Barkay & the Commandant. We were entertained with Coffee and Sweetmeats, in the course of which they gave us a Concert of Musick which had an agreeabnle wildness in it & harmonious altho a most peculiar contrast of Sounds. The Instruments where two large Mettal Pans (called Gongs) which are struck in the Center with a short stick covered with leather over the point. Two smaller ones – One Fiddle with two strings – Two wood drums covered with Skin as in the South Sea a stackado [staccato ?] Instrument and several others formed by large pipes of Bamboo about Two feet long joined together with mettal plates suspended by a center over each of them which are struck by sticks and are semi tones to each other.

The attendance of the principal Javans are numerous & they have vast military order as well as domestick regulations. Their principal Weapon is a long pike, and a number of these pikemen are always attendant on the Chiefs. They are particularly fond of chewing the Beetle and the equipage in the use of this Article is costly and take a considerable pride in it.

The Javans are in general a fine formed set of people and agreeable countenances, their colour is a dark Olive but like most others in this Sea that depends in a great measure in the manner they expose themselves to the sun. These people however have certainly heretofore been more imminent than any other class of Indians we are acquainted with if we may regard some Images that have been found among them. There is no judging of the antiquity of these things, it is however certain they had them before they had any knowledge of Europeans, and the Dutch came among them in … Some of

[Page 322]

these Images I saw at this place and they gave strong proofs of an ellegant & ingenious set of people. To give an Idea of them, it was a woman about 4 feet ½ high. The Features were regular and handsome, the Hair raised about the face, the Body habitted in a Gown & petticoat with only the bosom bare upon which pendant from theNeck were several rows of Beads of different lengths with which if the figure had had but attitude would have bore the appearance of a more modern piece of Sculplture but for want of that, it resembled very much those antique representations of the Mother of a Family as may be seen as Monuments in some old churches in England.

The Country about Sourabya is very pleasant having a great extent of flat land and fine roads with a fertillity of soil that can produce any thing. The Cultivation is very easy so that a Javan requires no more than one Bullock which they call a Karrabou & a plow to turn up all his Ground. These Annimals they take great care of & when they lead them to Water every Javan will wash & clean his Beast in the River which the Annimal receives with much seeming pleasure.

The interior parts of the Country are very Mountanious & are infested with a terrible breed of Tigers which among these parts make travelling very dangerous. I saw a very large one which was brought to the Chief here. His allowance of food was a live Dog every other day. Deer are frequently killed but the flesh is not so high flavored as in Cold Countries.

The Gardens produce every kind of Fruit & Vegetable so that of the latter they are in want of little of what is in Europe. Potatoes are in very great perfection, but the Asparagus is very inferior to what it is in England.

The Breed of Horses of Java are small but very handsome & servicible so that for either Carriage or saddle every Gentleman is amply provided and as the Roads are exceedingly good every one takes an airing in the Morning & Evening as conducive to health. This agreeable place may however be considered the Mountpelier of the North side of Java.

[Page 323]

Remarks at Crissey

This is a healthy & also a pleasant little spot, it is Governed by a Resident, a Mr. Anthony Swainker. It has a more convenient Road for Shipping than Sourabya & has for the convenience of landing goods a long pier. The town is commanded by a small Fort, as my stay was only two hours it was not possible for me to find matter to enlarge on a description of the Place. I was received very Politely by the Resident & Mr. Van Haaften.

[Page 324]

Remarks Friday 18th Septr. 1789, Crissey

Moderate and Cloudy with distant Thunder. At 2 weighed with three prows in Company.

Soundings 4, 5, 6 fms.

Soundgs. 7, 7 7½ fms. Came too in 7 fms. The Tide running from the Northd., Crissey S. ½ W. abt. 4 miles. Entrance of the Streights N. ¾ W. to N. ¾ E.

The Navigation is here to intricate for me to give any discription of it.

The Land is low & Pulo Manari is a small Island that lies on Java side.

Tide from the southward.

Tide from the Northward.

Fresh Breezes Weigh’d.

Variable soundings from 4 to 2 fms.

Extremes of Java N.W. b N. to S.E. the Extreme being Pulo Manaree 3 or 4 miles dist. North point Madura N.E. b E. ½ E. A dutch Indiaman coming from the Nd.

Prows in company.

[Page 325]

Remarks Saturday 19th Septr. 1789

Light Breezes and Hazy Wr.

Soundings across & across the Channel 2 to 3½ fms.

Oedjong Panta or West point of the Streights W. b N. off Shore 2 Miles. North part of Madura E. ½ N. and Pulo Manaree S.E. b S. soundings 4 fms., discharged Rollo Veegers pilot and paid him three Dollars. Came on board John Hendrick out of the prow. Soundings running out 5, 7 & 10 fms.

At 6 Oedjong Panta S.E. b E. The middle of 3 remarkable Hills called the doed Kists S.W. off shore 4 miles and the Northermost land W. ½ S. No Ground at 13 fms.

Oedjong panta is the West point of Crissey Streights and is land of a moderate height but higher than any near it.

Sent a Prow to look out.

The Doed Kists (or Coffins) are three remarkable Hills that lie 4 Legs. and a half to the Westward of Oedjong Panta. Steer along Shore until Pulo Manaree is open with Madura then you may haul in S.S.E. for Streights Crissey – pilots will come off.

Prow returned. Very hazy Wr. Extremes of Java S.E. ½ S. to W.S.W. ½ W. High land of Lassam S.W. ½ W. off Shore 4 or 5 Leagues.

Soundings 17 fms. Prows in Company.

[Page 326]

Remarks Sunday 20th Septr. 1789

Moderate and very hazy Wr.

Lassam point W. b S. ½ S. off Shore 3 Leags.

Lassam point S.W. b W. ½ W. off Shore 7 miles. Saw several vessels in shore. A Dutch Cruizer & prow hailed us.

Thunder & Lightning.

Came to an anchor in 5 fms. varible. Winds and dreadfull Thunder & Lightning & Torrents of Rain.

At Day light Lassam point E. ½ S. Rambang S. ½ W. 6 Leagues. Weighed and Sailed. A large Ship standing to the Westward. Killed a Bullock and served fresh beef and Greens, sent some to the Master on board the prows.

Regular soundings 5 fms.

Light Breezes & hazy Wr. The Devils Clip W. b N. 5 Leagues Javanna S. b W.

[Page 327]

Remarks

The Land between Lassam & the Devils Clip forms in High hills and covered with Wood. Between these two places are Rambang & Javanna lying in the Cod of a Bay. At each place is a Dutch resident.

The Devils Clip is a small high rock covered with Trees and off it, to the N.W. is another small Island called the Cum of Java between which is a safe and commodious passage of near 8 Leags. with deep water and safe Soundings towards the main as I am informed.

It is to be remarked that the Season now begins to Shift for the Pilot assures me they have not had rain before for 6 Months, this is also within 2 Days of the Equinox.

[Page 328]

Remarks Monday 21st Septr. 1789

Light Breezes and Hazy Wr., soundings 5 fms.

Soundings 5 fms.

Do. 5, 6, 6 fms.

Do. 6, 6½ 7. The Devils Clip W.N.W. ½ W. dist. 3 Leags. Soundings 6½ & 7 fms.

The Extremes of Java W.S.W. to S.E. b E. & the Devils Clip S.S.W.

Devils Clip S.W. b W. soundings 7 fms.

Squally with hard Rain, Thunder & Lightning. Anchor’d in 9 fathoms, served a Dram to all Hands.

Wind round the Compass.

Weighed. The devils Clip E. ½ N. 4 or 5 Miles.

Devils Clip E. b N. & the point of Japara W.S. ½ S. off Shore 3 miles.

Soundings 9, 10, 11, 13 fms.

Do. Wr. Pt. of Japara S.W. b S. 3 Miles. High Land of Do. [Pt.] S.E. b E. High Land of Tayo E. ½ N. off Shore 2 miles. Sounding 12, 11, 10, 9 fms.

Prows in Company & a Large ship.

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Remarks

In following the Coast of Java to the place a Stranger may make bold on his Soundings & he requires no better mark to know where he is than this Rock called the devils Clip. When round this Rock the Shore lies S.S.W. up to Samaran & is low covered with Bushes. In land are Two High Hills. One being the high land of Japara & the other of Taiyo.

[Page 330]

Remarks Tuesday 22 Septr. 1789

Mode. & Hazy Wr. Soundgs. 8, 7, 6, 6 fms. Soundgs. 6, 6, 6½ fms.

Do. 6, 6½ fms passed the road to Japara where were laying a Dutch Indiaman & other vessels.

At 4 the Extremes of Java N.N.E. to S. b E. & the westermost of Japarre [Japara ?] Isles S.E. b E. 2 Leagues.

At 6 the Extremes of Java N.E. ¼ E. to S. ¼ W. & the high land of Japara E.N.E. off shore 2 Leags. Soundings 6 & 5 fms.

At 7 a sudden Calm Anchor’d in 5½ fms.

Fresh Breezes Thunder Lightning & Heavy Rain.

Mode. Cloudy the Extremes of the Land N.E. b N. to S. b E. High Land of Japara N.E. b E. off Shore 2 Leagues. Weigh’d & sailed.

The High Land of Samarang S. b W. ½ W.

Moderate and very hazy. Extremes from E.N.E. to W.S.W. Samarang Road S.W. ½ S. off Shore 3 Legs.

[Page 331]

Remarks

Japara lies about 8 Leagues from the Devils Clip to the N.E. and is easily known by Islands that Shelter it from westerly winds. It has also a conspicuous Fort (which appeared to me of some strength) on an eminence that commands the Road.

After a very bad Night of Weather I weighed at daylight. High land in the S.S.W. which is at the back of Samaran shows the situation of that Road.

From Japara to Samaran the land is exceedingly low. The Coast still continues to be very safe by the soundings.

[Page 332]

Remarks Wednesday 23 Septr. 1789

Moderate & Hazy Wr.

Anchored in 2 fms. the Extremes of the Road from W. b N. ½ N. to E. ½ S. the Church Steeple S.E. 1½ mile. High land of Samaran S. ½ W. and the Governors House S. ½ E. Found riding here about 20 Sail square rigs, vessels with several Sloops and prows. Discharged John Hendrick pilot.

Fair Wr.

Light Airs and Hazy. Hauld alongside of a Snow and got the main mast out & sent it on Shore.

A Galley came off to go with me to Batavia on Board which I sent the Master & Carpenter & discharged the prows belonging to Samabya [Sourabaya ?].

[Page 333]

Remarks

The Shoalness of the Water makes the Road of Samarang very inconvenient as you are obliged to lye so far from the Shore and for Boats it is not less so, as only at half or three quarters flood can a Ships Boat get into the River or within half a Mile of the Shore.

I found a difficulty in landing this afternoon however after some trouble we got the Boat track’d into the River which is very like that of the Settlement of Passerwang, low swampy ground covered with low Bushes, about which lie dead annimals very offensive to every one. The River is about 20 yards broad forms a Surpentine course and on its banks as you advance towards the Town are many Hutts which are the dwellings of inferior people.

At One Mile from the Water side is the residence of the Equipage Master with whom every person who lands is obliged to have the first interview. He met me on my landing and ordered his voiture to carry me to the Governor, during the time it was getting ready many enquires were made but with so much indelicacy who I was & where I came from that I was under the necessity to tell them I would give them no information but desired the carriage to be brought to carry me to the Governor, for I understand it is kept for the convenience of the Master Attendant to conduct those there who may arrive and are obliged to pay their respects to him.

The residence of the Governor is near two Miles from the Town. I had however by a half past 5 the honor to see his Excellency who received me with neither good humour or much politeness – he could only speak dutch and the Master Attendant very bad French and understood as little. His Excellency therefore desired me to dine with him on tomorrow. I made my wants to be understood which were a Main Mast and some Water with a liberty to be supplied with some fresh meat and Vegetables & these where granted, also a Galley to go with me to Batavia.

On my return to Town I met a Gentleman Monr. le Baron de Bose lately a Captain of Cavellrie and now a Merchant of distiction [distinction] whose Brother is

[Page 334]

the Commandant des Troupes at Sourabya. The latter having made me known to this Gentleman who with great politeness insisted on my taking up my abode at his House during my stay a circumstance which became desirable to me.

The Fiscal I was informed and several others were to go on Board of me in the morning to see what kind of Vessel and whether I had any contraband goods on board or not. I therefore about half past 5 went on board with them, and returned about Nine O’clock for they were soon perfectly satisfied without making any search a circumstance also I had a right not to allow, but as the vissit was made politely I took no power to object it.

Towards noon Monr. de Bose having given me the use of his Carriage, I set out accompanied by a Gentleman Mr. Bronkhorst to dine with the Governor and I found the party who were to join us to consist only of the Officer of the Guard and a person of the Name of Grose with his wife. The latter Gentleman became troublesome and impertinent in his enquiries, and I found his ignorance leading him on so far that I was under the necessity to put a stop to it and being chastized he behaved better afterwards.

The loss of my Ship and my transactions since that made the whole of the conversation and I presented a written account of the whole that nothing might be misunderstood. The Governor had therefore only to get it translated into Dutch which I desired he would, as it was on the Service of the King of England, wherein I had requested in his Majestys name, that orders might be given to the different Dutch settlements to secure the pirates wherever they might appear.

[Page 335]

Remarks at Samarang Thursday 24th Septr. 1789

Fair Wr. and Hazy with variable Winds both with respect to Strength and direction being all round the Compass.

A.M. recd. on board Fresh Beef & Bread which I directed to be served to all Hands. Recd. also 4 Casks of Water. Latde. obsd. by ye Master 6 .. 14 S. As the custom among the dutch is to go to Sleep immediately after Dinner their time of Dining being precisely at Noon, I left the Governor about ½ past One o’clock and on my return found the necessary people were Employed making the Mast.

A Letter was now presented to me from my Master on Board the Prow begging and beseeching me to forgive him and take him with me again promising to behave well in future and to make any concessions I would please to point out at the same time giving me up the paper he got at Timor which he had shown at Sourabya, signed by Wm. Adriaan Van Este the Opperhooft with a design to injure my character acknowledging that the paper was got signed for him by a Captain Spikerman and that he did not get it from Van Este. I only wished to make an example of this man in England & I therefore took all these concessions as a puliation of his offence & determined to take him on board lest he might die by ill health and having sent orders to that purport he was sent out of the Prow in the Evening.

Master’s Letter

Sir/
I find that while I was at Sourabya you have been informed I uttered things tending to hurt your Character both as an Officer & as a Man. I therefore think it my duty to appologize to you for such conduct. In the first place the paper signed Wm. Adriaan Van Este which I showed was sent to me by Capt. spikerman for I did not see that Gentlemen and I present that paper to you to compare the Signature for I do not wish to hurt the Character of that Man and am sorry for such a transaction. As for the villanous report and disgrace designed for you by those who said on Shore that you would be hanged on your return to England demands my most regular & perfect declaration that you have most perfectly in my opinion done your utmost to secure the Health and Happiness of your

[Page 336]

Officers and Men, that you never have behaved with the least partical of Tyrranny or oppression, that unless you had been more than a Human Being you could not have foreseen the loss of the Ship and that even as it was no Man could do more than you did to bring to a sense of their duty the Mutineers, for your hands was tied behind your back and you was kept under a Guard abaft the Mizn. Mast and no one allowed to come near you.

Under these circumstances the misfortune fell upon us unforeseen and I think I am by integrity bound to give you this avowal of my own feelings & to say (conscious that I have done wrong) I beg your pardon and you may depend I shall ever do my utmost to induce you to forget what is past. I therefore hope you will allow me to be with you & no longer suffer me to be a Prisoner to go to England or have any intention to try me by a Court Martial. If this concession is not sufficient I will make any other that you may point out and with many thanks I shall ever consider myself.

Sir
Your much obliged & very humble Servt.
Jno. Fryer

Samarang
Septr. 23rd 1789

Besides the former on the following morning I recd. another Letter enclosing the paper Signed Van Este certifying the prices of Provisions &c. at Timor.

Sir
I have enclosed the paper which was given me at Coupang and beg if you can possibly do without showing it, not to do it & I likewise humbly request of you not to mention any thing about it at Batavia as it will give me a great deal of uneasyness to hear my name mentioned as I am coscious [conscious] that I have used those people Ill in suffering the paper to be seen at Sourabya in complying with my request you will much oblige.

Sir
Your most obliged and most Obedient Hble. Servt.
Jno. Fryer

Samarang
Septr. 24 1789

[Page 337]

In the morning Mr. de Bose did me the favour to show me the environs of this place and the Town about which as there is nothing very remarkable a description cannot be interesting. Its situation is pleasant with fine Roads like Bowling Greens, for the Country except far back is level without any rising Grounds and is well watered. The generality of the Houses are not well calculated for the Country but some of the superior ones particularly this of Mr. de Boses are airy and built with Taste. The Chinese Town is apart from the Europeans, and so are the Javanese, the latter are very numerous and the Chinese a busy and industrious people. The Markets are very large and supplied with great abundance of Legumes and Fruit and every article of Food is to be got at a very cheap rate.

But what does great honor to the Europeans here is a publick Hospital under the direction of Mr. Johannes Jacobus Abegg who is first Surgeon, perhaps a more airy, or a situation more desirable for a Sick Man cannot be found, or is it possible for more cleanliness to be observed in any place whatever.

There’s also a public School supported by contributions and some other Helps from such Scholars as are able to pay for their education.

The Mathematicl Sciences are regularly and well taught and every young person may be properly educated to form a complete Sea Officer. The Head Master Mr. Stainmitz is possessed of a few necessary Instruments but he wants a little practical knowledge of the use of them and of the manner of making Observations.

The Town is fortified and surrounded by a Wall & Ditch, on the whole perhaps they can mount 80 pieces of Cannon. The Troupes are commanded by a Colonel and their number may amount to 300 effective Europeans. Among those Officers who have honord me with a vissit was a Mr. C.C. Van Arnschild an Hanovarian Officer now in the Company Service whose Father is a General in Hanover.

[Page 338]

Remarks Friday 25th Septr. 1789

The first and latter part fresh breezes and hazy Wr., middle light airs. Wind N.N.W., N.E., S.E., E.S.E., & N.N.E. The Mast being not ready I was prevented from Sailing. Latitude Obsd. by the Master 6° 54’ So.

In the Evening I recd. a Messuage by the Equipage Master from the Governor to know how I meant to discharge my debt for the Mast & about 30 fms. Inch & half Rope besides 20 Cases of Arrack. I returned for ansr. any way he pleased either by Bill or Cash. In the morning I recd. another Messuage from the Governor by the same person that he would have nothing to do with the Konings reckoning (as he called it) but that I must pay for what I had. I was surprized at these abrupt Messuages and therefore requested I might not be troubled with any more of them for that the money should be paid on my receiving the Mast.

Either from an accustomed incivility or real ignorance here are some Dutch folks who at present doubt of my responsibility and altho they have had every proof from Timor and of my Commission yet their impudence has led them to be sifting my people who on noticeing very extraordinary enquiries told me of it.

In the morning I received a Messuage from the Governor by his Ordinance (or person in waiting) that he would not receive any payment for what I had here but that such he would leave with me to settle when I arrived at Batavia.

I fixed on the Evening for my departure and informed His Excellency I should take my leave of him at 5 o’clock.

[Page 339]

Remarks Saturday 26th Septr. 1789

Fresh Breezes and Hazy.

Recd. a new Main Mast but so much swell in the Road could not ship it.

I returned on Board.

The swell less. Hauled along side a Snow and Shipped the Mast.

Light Airs.

Weighed and Sailed the Galley in Company. Sailed also 4 Square rigged Vessels.

Samarang Church S.E. ½ S. 4 Miles. Soundgs. 3 to 5 fms. Extremes of Java E. b S. ½ S. to West.

Served fresh Beef & Greens. Sent the Carpenter a Week’s provisions and Received on board Jno. Bevans out of the Galley as Pilot.

Light Airs. Samarang Church S.E. ½ E. 5 or 6 miles. High land So. and the extremes of Java from E.S.E. to W. ½ N. Soundings since 8 o’clock 5 fathoms.

[Page 340]

Remarks 26th Septr. continued.

Having spent the day with Captain Bose at his Country seat he accompanied me this Evening to the Governor who had the politeness to wish me a good Voyage. This Gentleman’s Name is John Greve. He is a person who from the lowest station has by an active mind rose to this Seat of Power which is next to the Governor General at Batavia. It is perhaps from hence that Java and Batavia are spoken of as Two seperate places for a Dutchman always make a distiction between them & it is a Common expression, are you going to Java or Batavia? as if Batavia was not in Java.

The precious Jewel of Java is Rice of which amazing Quantites of the finest kind in the World are produced and is of course their grand staple commodity. Their Navigation is carried on with great care and with little expence, few Europeans being Employed the other necessary hands being the Natives who they pay with Rice.

The dutch have had much trouble with the Javans heretofore but at present are on a very happy situation with them. These people are Governed by an Emperor and a Sultan and the reigns of power being held by those two, the Dutch politically by that means preserve a ballance which procures tranquillity.

The Javans can send large armies into the Field on the shortest notice it therefore is certain that it would be an expensive expedition to any Potentate to attack the dutch in this quarter as landing on any part of the Coast can be obtained only by a powerfull Army. The Shoal Water round the Coast make it not at all necessary for them to have Forts against shipping and it follows of course that Men of War will have nothing to fight against but what is afloat. The Country also is Flat and very Level so that as there is no commanding high Grounds a choice of situation is of no value.

[Page 341]

I therefore think the only thing that can be done with success here against the Dutch by any Enemy is the Destruction of their shiping.

Among the amusements which are at Samarang is a small but pretty Theatre on which those who have a taste show their abilities in the Theatricl line, it is however feared that they have so small a field to go on that the House will in a short time be turned to some other use. Housekeeping to the people of this place must be very cheap. I bought Beef at 10 doits pr. lb., Fowls at 12 doits each and I am told other articles of Food are equally reasonable.

They Curry and dress Leather. Shoes therefore are to be got from 30 Doits a pair to One Dollar and Samarang is considered to be the principal place in Java for that article.

I have only now to remark that I believe had I not saved my Commission and Uniform, and had been unfortunate enough to have put into this place that the whole of us would have been made prisoners of until I could have proved who we were, but at the same time I will do them the justice to say that had I been a Smuggler, loaded with Opium an article highly Contraband they would have treated me with more politeness and Civility. Among the Gentlemen however who wished to render me every Service and would have done to their utmost had I been in want, were Mr. de Bose, Mr. Abegg the first Surgeon of the Hospital and a Mr. Van Basel and Capt. Arnschild. To Mr. Abegg we are indebted for his assistance in Medicines and advice for which by no means whatever would he receive payment.

At 6 o’clock I left Samarang & was politely accompanied to my Boat by Mr. de Bose and Arnschild who there took leave of me. On my arrival on Board I found they had not been able to put the Mast in owing to a troublesome sea in the Road. We got it done however in the Morning & I sailed with a Galley mounting 6 Swivels carrying one pound which the Governor had directed to accompany me to Batavia to protect us in case of meeting with pirates as they are said to be about the Coast.

The Latitude of Samarang Church is 6° 57’ So. & Longde.

[Page 342]

Remarks Sunday 27th Septr. 1789

Light Winds and Hazey Wr.

The Extremes of Java S.E. b E. to W. ½ S. church Steeple S.E. b S. ½ S. High Land of Samarang S. b W. off Shore 7 Miles.

Came to an anchor. Extrs. from E. b S. ½ S. to W. b N. High land So. off Shore 4 miles.

Weighed and made Sail.

Extremes of Java E. b S. ½ S., high Land of Samarang S.E. b S. & of Harabalang S. b W. off Shore 3 Leagues.

Note
Between the High Lands all the Coast is very low. The Soundings are however a safe guide.

Lighht Winds. Extremes of Java W. ½ S. to E. b S. ½ S., the high Land of Harrabalang S. ½ E. off Shore 5 or 6 Miles. Galley in Company and a large Ship to the Westward.

Hazey Wr. like unto Fog.

[Page 343]

Remarks Monday 28th Septr. 1789

Light Winds and Hazey Wr.

Extremes of Java E. b S. to West off shore 5 miles.

Came to an Anchor. Extremes of Java E.S.E. to W. b N. Point of Batum S. ½ W. 2 miles.

Weighed and Sailed. The Coast is higher hereabouts than to the Eastward.

Extremes of Java E.S.E. to S.W. b W.

Passed three Ships at Anchor in Parmala Road. A few Ships load Rice here. The coast is low, high land at the back.

Extremes of Java E.S.E. to S.W. b W.

Extremesof Java S.E. b E. to S.W. b W. off Shore 8 Miles. Several sail in sight.

Light Airs. Extremes of Java E. b S. ½ S. to S.W. b W. ½ W. of Shore 2 Leagues. The Weather is so hazy that I cannot see any part of the Coast distinctly. It is however low.

[Page 344]

Remarks Tuesday 29th Septr. 1789

Light Breezes and hazy.

Hills inland broken & uneven a remarkable one S. b W. off Shore 5 Miles.

Extremes of Java E. ½ S. to W. b N. off Shore 6 Miles.

Hauled more to the Northward to go round Cheribon Bank.

No Ground at 13 fms. Hauled more up.

No Ground at 13 fms., hauled up two points.

Saw the high land of Cheribon S.W. b S. but cannot see the shore the Coast being so exceedingly low. Weather exceedingly Hazy.

Extremes of Java from the Mast head S.W. b S. to W. b N. and the high land of Cheribon S.W. off Shore 4 Leags. Galley in Company. A large Ship at anchor to the Northward.

Hazey Wr. equal to Fog.

[Page 345]

Remarks Wednesday 30th Septr. 1789

Moderate and Hazy Wr.

Extremes of Java S. ½ E. to W. b S. ½ S. and a high Mountain at the back of Cheribon S. b W. off Shore 6 miles.

At 6 Red Hook S.S.E. and Intermay N.W. off shore 6 miles. Low Land.

Intermay S.W. b S. No Ground at 10 fms.

No Ground at 10 Fathoms.

Lost sight of the Galley a Stern. Hauled up for the Land.

Fresh Breezes and thick hazey Wr. No Ground at 17 fathoms.

No Land in sight or the Galley.

The reason of my Steering all N.W. all Night was that the Coast is laid down in that direction by the Map to Pamanhooka off which is a Bank of 3 and 2½ Fathoms.

[Page 346]

Remarks Thursday 1st Octr. 1789

Fresh Breezes and very hazy Wr.

A Ship standing to the N.W.

The Extremes of the Land which is low S.E. to W.S.W. off Shore 3 Leagues.

Land S.W. b W.

Across a Shoal off Carawang Point Anchored. At day light found the Land to bear from E.S.E. to Carawang point S.W. b S. off Shore 4 Miles.

At 10 Weighed. The Galley joined us.

Very hazy Wr. Edam Island N.W. b W. ½ S. 5 Miles. Extremes of Java E.N.E. 6 Miles to S.W. ½ S. off shore 4 Miles.

Galley in Company.

[Page 347]

Remarks in Batavia Road Friday Octr. 2nd 1789

Very Strong Breezes and Hazy Wr. After running S.W. ¼ S. 12 Miles I anchored at ½ past 2 this Afternoon in 2½ Fathoms. Extremes of the Land from E. b N. to N.W. b W. ½ W. The Church Cupola S. ½ E. a half Mile off Shore Unroost N.W. ½ N.

Found riding here a States 20 Gun Ship & 20 sail of Indiamen with Snows Brigs and many other small Vessels.

At Half past Four I went on Shore.

At Half past 10 a.m. the Vice Commodore came off and brought people to take the Vessel into the River and by Noon made fast abreast of a Redoubt.

[Page 348]

Remarks Thursday 1st October 1789 Civil Account

Very strong Breezes from the N.E. in the day and light Winds at Night Variable.

This afternoon I anchored in Batavia Road with the Church Tower bearing S. ½ E. dist. 1½ Miles in 2½ fms. See Log proceeding this.

At 4 I went on Shore and landed in the River at a House where all Strangers first stop and give account who they are. A Melay [Malay ?] person ordered a Carriage and with him I went to Mr. Englehard the Sabander. This Gentleman’s House I found to be out of the City in the environs where perhaps few places exhibit a greater appearance of wealth and ease. The Sabandar is the person with whom all Strangers are obliged to transact their busyness at least through him it is to be conducted. I was therefore by him introduced to the Governor General who on my application for his assistance assured me he would render me every service. I asked His Excellency to permitt me with all my people to return to Europe by the first Ship that Sail’d to give me leave to sell the Schooner & Boat and to suffer my people to be taken care of while here. All being granted I returned with the Sabander & having given him the heads of my busyness and my disaster, he was to form a regular petition to be presented to the Council tomorrow at which the General presides. I brought with me from Coupang the account of my Voyage I had given to Mr. Van Este translated into Dutch & directed to the General, it therefore became no further necessary for me to give any other account & particularly as I had given one also to the Governor of Java at Samarang which was to be sent here. I now settled that the Vessel was to come into the River to morrow and the Sabandar sent such directions to have pople to attend for that purpose.

A large Hotel is here for the accomodation of all Strangers it was at this house therefore that I found my residence was to be at as politcal motives had made a law that no one in such a Character should reside any where else either in Town or Country. It is situated in the most airy & best place of the Garrison close to the great River as it is called. I however found the air dreadfully hot & suffocating and towards night I was seized with a pain in my head.

Thos. Hall with Fever & Flux & Geo. Simpson with intermitg. Fever since I left Coupang are the only Sick people I have now with me. At 11 o’clock the Schooner came into the River.

[Page 349]

Remarks Friday 2nd October 1789

Hot Strong Winds from the E.N.E. in the Day with light airs at Night.

In the morning the Sabandar attended me, and the Council being set at 9 o’clock my request was presented and being present I was informed that the Council had complied with everything I had asked.

I now returned to the Hotel with my Head ach vastly increased & in the course of an Half Hour a Strong Fever came on which obliged me to retire to my Bed. My temples throbed with great violence and a pain acoss [across] my forehead was so severe that I thought my Head would burst asunder, my Nerves were dreadfully affected so that I could hould nothing or scarce Walk. In short I expected after all my distresses that I was finally to close my Carreer of life in this sad place Batavia. I sent to the Sabandar for some eminent Doctor to come to my assistance and soon after a Mr. Aaansorp head Surgeon of the Town Hospital came. His first application was a tepid bath with a handfull of Salt in it in which I was to sit an half Hour and then at every half Hour afterwards I was to take a large spoonfull of a Mixture which had Camphor in it and Houghmans Drops. The bathing my feet brought on a profuse perspiration and I rested tolerably so that wonderfully by Midnight the Fever was rather better than Worse.

I was visited by a Mr. Hoogendorp and Hemmee who seem’d anxious about my situation. A Mr. Eddie an Englishman here from Bengal was also particularly desirous to do me every good. Mr. Humme is a Son of the late 2nd Governor of C.G. Hope spoken of by Capt. Cook.

[Page 350]

Remarks Saturday 3rd October 1789

Weather and Winds as yesterday.

My Fever still on me but considerably abated in the morning and Evening my feet were bathed as before & I took the same Mixture only once an hour a large spoonfull & by Night I had the happyness to hear the Doctor was of opinion a day or two would bring me to myself again. A little Sago was all the food I used & was allowed lemonade to drink but in very small quantities at a time.

I had a Message from the Governor General to dine with him Tomorrow but of course I was obliged to decline the honor.

I had forgot to mention I took three small doses of Jollap this day. One before breakfast one at 11 o’clock & one at 5 o’clock in the Evening which operated very gently but perhaps the Doctor would have given more had I not taken a Strong dose of Physick before I arrived.

This practice being so different from that in our West Indies made me surprized at the moderate mode of treatment & I suggested that a Vomit would be proper but I was assured that such was highly improper & produced the worst effect & had been proved to be so highly productive of bad consequences that it was out of use unless in particular cases, gentle laxatives therefore were found to be of more value.

Thos. Hall being very ill with a Flux I sent him to the Country Hospital a desirable place for Sick Men.

Sunday October 4th

Hot Winds from the N.E. & E.N.E. from 10 o’clock in the Morning until Evening then light and Variable. My health very bad with a severe Head Ach. I took two gentle papers of Jollap as yesterday and used the Tepid bath twice in the Day.

I ordered that such Officers as choosed it might come and live at the Hotel and that I should proceed to sell the Vessell without delay if my health would permit. That as yet I could determine nothing about the Seamen. The Carpenter I continued in arrest & applyed to have him as soon as possible sent on board of Ship where I thought his health would be safe.

[Page 351]

Remarks Monday Octr. 5th 1789

Do. Winds and Weather.

No alteration in my health I however took an airing before 8 o’clock in a Carriage which I pay three Dollars pr. Day for.

I find the Hotel so dirty and for want of frequent cooling by washing the appartments so suffocating that I applied to have a House hired for me in the Country. The Sabandar therefore promised to apply to the General for as it is a law that no Stranger whatever shall reside out of the City an intimate Friend would not have dared publickly to have taken me to his house as a Residenter without incurring the displeasure of some of his connections and perhaps forfeiting his future perferment.

Tuesday Octr. 6th 1789

Hot Winds in the Day from the E.N.E., Night and morning light Airs and Cool.

My health just the same the Fever on me from 10 in the morng. to four in the afternoon, much Head Ach. In the interval when the Fever was off I took the tincture of Bark a large Spoonfull every 2 Hours. I received a Message from the General that he had granted my request and that he had ordered the Physician or Surgeon General Mr. Sperling to accomodate me in his House. I therefore determined on leaving Town in the Morning.

[Page 352]

Remarks Wednesday Octr. 7th 1789

Do. Winds and Weather.

This Morning at Sun Rise I left the Hotel and about 4 Miles in the Country I found the Surgeon Generals House near to the Convalessent Hospital. This Hospital has also Sick Men in it & altogether at this time amount to 800. The situation is airy and desirable & everything was Instantly arranged for my comfort and convenience. I dined with appetite & received every politeness & attention from Mr. Sperling. He would suffer me to take no Medicines today altho’ my Fever as yesterday. My head ach also continues but I find a wonderfull difference in respiration between this & the Town. Here the Country seems healthy and desirable.

At 6 o’clock this Evening I paid the General a Visit and spent the Evening as an Invalid. His Excellency seems to be a very amiable & Whorthy Character. The Ladies dressed in the Malay fashion but wore some rich Jewells. I had an invitation from a Mr. Vander Beck an Edellere whose charming situation a small distance from this with anything he had was offered in order to restore my health.

A Packet being to sail this day Week I solicited to have a passage in her for myself and People, but her size being so very small I was told it was impossible. It was however very strongly recommended to me to go myself as my health appeared so impaired and that the General would allow me altho’ no other passengers were permitted that my Officers and Men would be sent after me in some of the first Ships that Sailed which if I remained could not take place until the last of the Month if then and therefore it was highly advisable in my Situation not to Stay such a length of time, but proceed and wait the arrival of my People at the Cape of Good Hope where my health in the interval would be restablished to Sail for Europe.

Taking all this into consideration and seeing no absolute good that could accrue to my people from my being here, I determined to depart in the Packet and leave the Master to bring the People to me at the Cape of Good Hope.

The Vessel the Resource being advertised, she is to be sold at Publick Outcry on Saturday Morning 9 o’clock.

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Remarks Thursday Octr. 8th 1789

Hot Winds at E.N.E. and Weather Rain at Night.

Still the Fever on me from 10 to 4 and a very severe head ach so that it is with the utmoust difficulty I can keep my Journal up. I take the air morng. and Evening. Sold the Launch to Mr. Hogendorp Adminstratuer at Onrust. The Middle of the Day I keep to my Room & at times to my Bed. Thos. Hall who is here in the Hospital continues very ill.

Friday October 9th 1789

Fresh Breezes and Hot from E.N.E. from 10 in the Morning to 4 in the Afternoon, light winds at Night.

My health continues so very bad that the Physician has represented it to the General that I should leave Batavia without delay, I therefore am now preparing to Sail in the Packet where I am to embark on Tuesday. Arrived here this day Capt. Lloyd of the General Elliot. In Streights Banca he fell in with some Boats belonging to the Vansitart East India Man who was lost in Streights Billaton having struck on a Rock that went through her bottom. Capt. Wilson had just finished his survey of these Streights and was hoisting the Boat in when they struck. The Ship made so much water they were obliged to run her on Shore and take to their Boats. Capt. Lloyd & a Capt. Canning of the Nonsuch Sailed immediately for the Wreck & there found the Ship burnt down to the Waters Edge by the Malays, they however saved 40 Chests of Treasure out of 55 which they say was on board. The People behaved very Riotous, one man was lost in the Ship and five others in a small Boat are missing supposed to have taken some of the treasure. Most of the People are gone to China with Capt. Wilson. A Mr. Jones is here & some few of the Hands with Capt. Lloyd.

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Remarks Saturday Octr. 10th 1789

Do. Winds and Weather.

This Morning I ordered every person to attend at the Puplick Sale of the Resource and it began at 9 o’clock this Morning. I ordered her to be put up at 2000 Rex dollars and to bid downwards as is also the custom here; but Strange as it may appear she only Sold for 295 Rex Dollars. This great loss of 705 Rex dollars was unavoidable and if she had not been bought by an English Capt. John Eddie I suppose they would have run her down to 200 for I had no alternative. However even at this Rate up to the present time the expences if I had remained at Timor untill the last of September would have been greater than it is at present, and I have this advantage that my people are here ready to Sail with the first Ships which would not have happened as the Timor Ships are not arrived.

My Health & Strength is worse every day so that I am in tortures when I think or write.

At ½ past 11 died at this Hospital Thomas Hall of a Flux. This poor Man has never been well since my arrival at Timor.

Sunday Octr. 11th 1789

Moderate Winds at Ed. with Calms at Night.

My health seems a little better to day but still a severe head ach & Weakness. In the Morning about a half Hour after Sun Rise I take an airing in the Country and the air has a vast effect on relieving the Pain of my Head. The Fever is lessened considerably by it.

I had a Message from the General to come and see him in the Evening which I did it happened to be the birthday of one of his daughters, the company on that account was large and selected and I conceived on my return I had done my health no injury.

I received intimation from the Sabander that a Duty on the Sale of all Vessels was by order of Council to be paid and that therefore I became amenable to such a law. I directly refused such a payment & assured them I would not pay any Tax whatever.

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Remarks Monday Octr. 12th 1789

Do. Wr.

The Fever on me to day and a most violent head ach and great weakness. It was settled to day that I was to give the Capt. of the Packet 300 Rix Dollars for my passage, that of my Clerk and one Servant and am to find my Wine and Gin.

On my making a requisition to the General that all my remaining people might be sent to Europe in one Ship, I Recd. for answer by Mr. de Piey his private Secretary that the General was sorry he could not comply with my request for that the Ships were all so exceedingly crowded that he would be under the necessity to divide them into Two or Three Ships and that if I remain myself it would be the same case so that our seperation is unavoidable. The Packet also is detained untill Friday next.

I was informed by the Sabandar that it was absolutely necessary for my People and Officers to be examined before a Notary with respect to the loss of the Ship as without that the Governor & Council would not legally detain the Ship if she was found in any of their Settlements. I therefore agreed that they should be examined Tomorrow Morning and directed them to attend.

Tuesday Octr. 13th 1789

Modr. Breezes at E.N.E. and a Shower in the afternoon, calm at Night.

My Health just the same. Employed writing publick Letters to day to be sent by the first opportunity after I sail.

This afternoon to my great surprise I received a Mesage by the Sabandar from the General showing me a paper Council certifying that there was an order in force here from the Company in Holland that no one should be allowed to go in any of their Ships for Europe unless they paid 190 Rix Dollars for their Passage and that therefore I must pay it for all those who did not work as Seamen. That the Council had observed it but not the Governor and that if I would solicit them to give my passage free by presenting a petition it would be done. I directly refused it and wrote to the Governor to the same purport assuring him I would give Bills to the amount of what would be charged on the Treasurer of the Navy in order to enable me and my People to return to their King and Country.

At 7 o’clock this Evening my Officers and people appeared before a Notary and declared the loss of the Ship & that it could not be foreseen or prevented. The Notary put the declaration into form and as a requisition from me which I objected to but as my time was short I permited it to remain so.

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Remarks Wednesday Octr. 14 1789.

Do. Wr.

Employ’d as yesterday and finished all my Letters. Sent a copy of my Journal to Lord Cornwallis in Bengall by a Capt. Eddie of a small vessel called the Cornwallis.

I recd. a Message to day by the Sabander that the Governor & Council required my Officers and people to swear to the loss of the Ship & that therefore desired them to appear at the Stadt House Tomorrow morning for that purpose otherwise the Council could not consider themselves authorized to stop the Ship if she was found here or in any of their Settlements. I therefore gave orders accordingly. It is strange that these people could not think of these things before but the Council seem to throw every impediment in my way.

My health is still very doubtfull my head continues to be exceedingly disordered & a slight Fever continues on me which render me exceedingly weak which with not being able to get clear of the Head ach renders my situation every Day more and more precarious.

Some Tradesmens Bills where brought in to me today on account of some of my Officers who were in want of Cloths &c. &c. The height of imposition appeared, a Bill of 51 dollars for 5 Hatts was reduced to 30 dollars and for Cloaths it underwent a proportional deduction. The Sabandar made these deductions.

Thursday Octr. 15th 1789.

Light Breezes E.N.E. in the Day and from the Land at Night.

At 9 this morning my men and Officers went to the Stadt House to make Oath to the loss of his Majestys Ship who having deposed to everything ask’d of them a paper was made out certifying the proceedings. This paper therefore was made out like the other in the Preamble that it was at my request this busyness was done, whereas I never thought of such a thing but on the contrary it was the Governor and Council who declared they could not detain His Majestys Ship without such a document. I now too late discovered the act of these people for what would have appear’d a publick act of theirs now became a private one of mine & as such they brought me in an account of 44 Rix Dollars for the Busyness done. But all this busyness primerly took place from a suspicion that altho’ there were no evident signs of impositions on my side, (Having seen my Commission & Journals) yet they thought such a thing might be the case & therefore by the depositions if by anything such a circumstance would come to light. My ill health would not allow me to embroil myself with such a troublesome pack, my life could only be saved by sailing in the Packet & as I was to go on board

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at Night I had a great deal to do to arange the busyness of my People and those of my own none of which was yet done as if designedly put of to the last moment. The Sabandar therefore agreed to come and settle with me in the Evening. About 6 or 7 o’clock this Gentleman came & presented all the Accounts which amounted to 839 Rix Dollars & 3 Stivers to be paid in paper Money but that as he had undertaken to pay all my accounts he therefore for my Bills on the Treasurer of His Majestys Navy would deduct 10 pr. cent. The account then stood 755 Rix Dollars & 24 Stivers & this he said he did entirely out of Friendship. I now began to examine the accounts & calculations when he told me he could not stay for that he was to spend the Evening with the Governor & therefore desired I would settle the accounts for he assured me they were right. Surprised at so much inconsistency I told him he must disappoint his Excellency for a while for that I would give no Bills untill I had examined the Accounts. He therefore went away in a Pet. The accost. were these,

To due to the S. Ind. Company as their droit for every person who takes a passage to Europe, 190 Dollars each, yourself and Secretary equal to – 380 Rix Dollars.
To payment to the Packet Captain for provisions & liquor & his profit for passengers – 384 Rix Dollars, 24 Stivers.
To paid Town Surgeon Mr. Hanzorgh – 20 Rix Dollars
To paid Notary Vander Gryp – 10 Rix Dollars
To paid Stadt House account for your Peoples affidavits – 44 Rix Dollars, 27 Stivers

839 Rix Dollars, 3 Stivers.

The Calculation was right but the charges esorbitant yet I had no resource I must either loose my passage or pay the account which at any rate would be demanded of me. I therefore gave Bills on the Treasurer of the Navy for the amot. & left them with Mr. John Fryer the Master with orders to get duplicates of the accounts attested. I also left my accot. of victualling at the Hotel to be carried to the General accot. at close of his Sailing. I cannot pass over this transaction without showing to the World how subject Strangers are to be imposed on particularly at this place Batavia.

The Sabandar is the person who is to transact all busyness with Strangers – what he has done for me he told me was out of Friendship & I really thought so untill he told me of it, but I will examine that particular. I however will do him the justice to say that I found he was strict in examining all Accounts of transactions not concerned with himself.

Paper Money is the current exchange of this Town it is therefore understood so in all bargains but this paper money is now at 28 pr. cent discount. The Duccatoon here is 80 Stivers but in Holland only 63 Stivers difference equal to 17 Stivers which is 21¼ pr. Cent loss on remittance of Money. It therefore follows that if a person at Batavia wants to remit Money to Europe which they will do they must loose from their property on Paper & the Exchange of Money 49¼ pr. Cent at this present time, but Mr. Englehard to oblige me takes my Bills on Government payable at 3 Months for which he would deduct 10 pr. Cent. It therefore followed

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as my account with him was 839 Rix Dolls. 3 Stivers I gave him Bills for 755½ Rix Dolls. now in this instance he pays 10 pr. Cent & supposing I allow him at home for Receiving his money to pay 5 pr. Cent Commission & other Charges which makes 15 pr. Cent this deducted from 49¼ gives him clear gains with me for the meer advance of Paper Money 34¼ pr. Cent in Europe and all this is Friendship. Now to counteract this busyness: a person with Government Bills or who is to close his transaction by giving Bills for the amount has nothing more to do than privately to make his intention known & he will find a number of People who will not only be glad of the Bills but give a premium of 10 or 20 pr. Cent. By this means you can collect your Cash and without trouble pay every account that is brought against you. But this I discovered too late to be benefitted by it.

There is another circumstance which I think it necessary to warn all Gentlemen strangers from being surprised at which is that if you are invited to spend the day at any house & such a hospitable person be afterwards asked to be with the General that day, you are desired to forbear your visit & perhaps at so short a notice that you may loose your dinner altogether. How this arises I cannot pretend to say positively it is however done with a view to keep in favour altho I cannot conceive it has the least weight with the Governor who appears to be too much a man of the World to wish those he desires to see at His Table to be crampt by such servile civility.

Among the difficulties that English Folks labour under here is that they are obliged to live at the Hotel because such an Hotel cannot be kept up unless all Strangers are forced to live in it and this we are told also is an order from Holland positively forbidding any one from living in the Country. Now I consider it a duty I owe to all travellers to represent this act of Brutality for it is a place that insures Sickness & most commonly death if the Patient is not removed from it. This Hotel was formerly two Houses but is now turned into one there remains however so much of what made it two distinct dwellings (with only communication by doors) that there is no free circulation of air so that you are almost suffocated & it is in the middle of a range of houses more calculated for a Cold Country than Batavia. Add to this no place can be more dirty or have worse attendance. Yet you are told the House is cleaned every day but this cleaning is worse than any thing else, for it is done by brooming without water so that a Cloud of dust takes place enough to suffocate any one & the cleaning itself is absolutely a nuisance. From a want of cleanliness & proper air also, the nights become intolerable when the lamps are lighted & respiration is found to be so difficult that for a considerable time it is scarce bearable. Nevertheless this Hotel as a house would not be so objectionable if it was washed every or every other morning & the back area or yard kept in neat order for a breakfasting place without the nuisances that are constantly there

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at this time. Cleanlyness is the principal thing to be attended to & after all possible care in that particular Batavia is so unhealthy that it is a miracle if a Stranger remains a Month there without a Fever. I may with great truth however assert that let the badness of the Climate be what it will that the town itself is more the principal cause of contagion and disease. The dutch Houses are built too massey materials & by far too many of them joined together a free circulation of air is therefore not in Batavia but there are strong draughts of Wind which become so heated in their course by the nature of the dwellings having collected so much of the Sun’s power, that have the most pernicious effects on every one who are improperly exposed to them. The croud of filth of other Houses belong’g to the Chinese and Javans add also to the general calamity of Ill health & the cross stagnated cannals perhaps contribute to it but some of these are ordered to be filled up.

The Sun is so very powerfull in its effects that it is highly dangerous to be exposed to it between the hours of nine in the Morning & four in the afternoon nothing therefore should lead people out of their Houses unless in a carriage in this interval & even then a Stranger will feel the effect of it. The part of any dwelling also that has the Sun heating it all this time should be avoided for I will pronounce it as a certainty that a person who is obliged to be confined to such an apartment from busynessor any other cause will get the Fever. I advise it therefore to all Strangers to take the back Rooms of the Hotel & keep away from the fore part of the house where the heat from the Walls is so great as to render Health exceedingly precarious.

A Regular mode of living is perhaps more necessary to preserve life in this place than any other part of the World & I have no doubt but the eating part is more productive of Ill than the drinking. Animal food should be used in very small quantities as the feeding is not good & of course the juices detrimental to health, but I have no doubt if dry feeding could be common that animals so fed would be equally salutary to Poultry or Fish. This however not being the case Salt meat is wisely prefered. All kinds of Legumes are in abundance & should make the principal part of every ones Meal, carefully avoiding to overcharge the Stomack or to eat indigestable food. Claret is a Wine the most adapted to this place Maderia [Madeira] being too heating, and every one will feel the advantage who goes supperless to Bed, but as is customary among the dutch it is the principal Meal. So far as Beer creates Bile it is an objectionable drink but it may be used by any one as a Glass after dinner with a morcel of Cheese. Claret and Water is the best common drink, but the smaller you make the draughts the better because the Stomach becomes immediately disordered when too great a proportion of any thing is received at a time.

In Europe I never heard it was conducive to health to go to Sleep immediately after eating, on the contrary the reverse is asserted but here & most hot countries it is established as a fact altho I see no reason to believe it natural indolence however & the custom of the Country has brought into use what will never be laid aside whether it is absolutely productive of good or not.

The Environs of Batavia are pleasant & healthy when about 3 Miles from the City on that account all those who possibly can, reside there & is called their Gardens. No place is nevertheless exempt from Sickness in the Months of Decr. & Jany. which is the time the

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heavy Rains set in but the violence of disease at this Season is not every year alike for I may give this reason. December is the month the Rains certainly set in if therefore the deludge comes suddenly on the Earth in a dry and heated state for 5 or 6 months before imbibes too great a quantity & by that means a very unsalutary effluvia is exhaled which being respired creates diseases but on the contrary if the Rains set in moderately & begin in Octr. & by Showers fill the Earth and cool it, the deluge then becomes inoffensive the overcharge of waters being carried of [off] by the Rivers which in the first instant would in a great measure be exhaled by the Heat of the Sun.

If I remember right (for I have now no assistance in that respect) Doctor Lind in his Treatiseon Hot Countries describes the most unhealty [unhealthy] season at Batavia to be June & July but in this particular he is certainly mistaken and I believe his treatise wants revision in other particulars.

From what I have already said it may readily be understood that it is not good to be exposed to Night dews or to take exercise in the morning before the Sun is up. I shall now give an account of the Seasons as I got them while here & I believe they may be relied on.

The Middle of November the West Wind or Monsoon begins and Rain.
December – Continual Rain and West Winds.
January – Continual Rain and West Winds and hard Gales S.W. N.W. & West.
February – Middle of this Month the Rain begins to take a little off.
March – About the last of this Month fine , Wr. begins with Westerly Gales.
April – In this Month the East Wind begins to blow - Showers.
May – East Monsoon fixed – Some Showers.
June, July – Easterly Wind Strongest Fine Wr. & Clear.
August, September – Easterly Wind not so strong Winds.
October – In this Month the Wind becomes a little vble. with sometimes Rain.

With little or no diference the above account is applicable all the way to Otaheite only that then & to theEastward of New Guinea the West Winds are not so permanent.

The Current is said to allways run with ey. [easterly ?] Wind but I doubt that particular for I found the reverse very evidently in coming from Timor to Java.

But I shall now return to my account of disadvantages English people labor under at Batavia. In common with all Strangers they are to be confined to the Hotel & I myself became subject to this restriction which I found would soon be the cause of death if I was not removed. I therefore determined on writing a publick letter to General & Council requesting leave to hire a House in the Country but I was persuaded from it as such a request according to Rule would be rejected alledging orders from Holland to the contrary as a reason.

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I therefore applied to the Sabandar as a favour to be allowed to remove from Town who immediately acquainted the General of it & I Recd. for ansr. I might retire to the Physician of the Hospitals House about 4 Miles from Town the General having considered my peculiar situation & hardships I had undergone. This point being accomplished I found no difficulty in any thing else as I might visit to particular Houses without subjecting such friendly people to blame who otherwise would not openly show me any attachment for fear of disobliging some leading Man from whom interest they expected preferment. Even among that Rank as a British Officer & the situation of the two Nations I expected some politeness but I receiv’d none except from a Mr. Vander Beck, a Mr. Hemme & a Mr. Hogendorp these Gentlemen as Inhabitants of the World had a liberality equal to it & I persume attached to their prince a qualification I thought advantageous to myself but which I am too certain had a contrary effect except with his Excellency the Governor General whose wish I believe it was to render me every service to the subjects of His Majesty. But a Council counteracted such plans or such a part of the Council who will not at present allow Orange Cockades to be worn by the East India Company Servants all the Captains & Officers of the Ships being obliged to lay the Orange Cockade in their chests & appear with black ones so that however obedient to the orders from Holland in other particulars there is a violent transgression in this. The Officers of the States it was pleasure to see appearing with a degree of independancy & honor the Bellona Frigate lay here Capt. Hartman whose peculiar civility & attention demands my acknowledgement a Commodore with other Ships of War and daily expected & it isthen supposed the Orange in the Companies Service will again command respect.

My Illness while here has prevented me from having a more general knowledge of Batavia & therefore many wise regulations & publick order & Buildings that would have been highly worth relating must undoubtedly have escaped me, but perhaps it is not the least worthy of Remark, the care & elligibility of their country Hospital which is about 4 Miles from Town. At this place they have from Eight to Fourteen hundred Men carefully attended at this time there were Eight hundred but 4 or 5 hundred of those were convalesents & others perfectly recovered & fit for Service for which three hundred were to be draughted for the Fleet that was to Sail for Europe. Each Ward is a seperate dwelling so that the diferent diseased are not only classed properly but a free circulation of air takes place throughout the whole building. I went through most of the Wards in each of which were about 80 patients & I found so little to offend my Nose as really astonished me. The Sheets & Bedding were exceedingly neat & clean & the linnen & persons of the diseased were remarkably so. All the Wards likewise were clean kept with very sufficient attendance & the whole does great honor & credit to the Physician, Doctor Spirling. The Situation of this Hospital is close upon the side of the River & by art is made an Island of and the Sick people

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are brought to it in a Boat which always attends for the purpose.

The Physicians Mr. Spirlings House is at one extremity of the Hospital & here it was I resided & received every politeness & attention besides the greatest care taken of my health & recovery which I date to my being with this Gentleman. He would receive no payment but considered it a point of duty to any of His Majestys Subjects.

There is another Hospital in Town which I believe is equally taken care of by Doctor Anzorgh but the situation is much against it & it would be a humane act to remove it into the Country as most assuredly a number of lives are lost from the bad place it stands in now. I see no difficulty in doing this for surely as far as the River is navigable by Boats there can be no difficulty or danger in carrying Sick people to a Hospital that may be built on its Banks such Boats being covered with awnings and convenience for hanging the Hammocks or platforms to lay on. It is a charity due to the poor unfortunate sick people that are here & will undoubtedly save the lives of Thousands. There is an unpardonable neglect in this Country among the Commanders of Shipping in suffering their people to go dirty in their persons & frequently without Frocks or any thing to cover their Bodies. I speak of this as a publick nuisance wherever such Europeans are seen & it is likewise productive of ill Health in the most robust constitution.

It was at the Convalessent Hospital I had power from the General to take every person belonging to me & I thought it an elligible plan but my Officers requested of me to admit them to remain in Town as they could not bear the Idea of being there & I complyed with their request allowing such a Rupee pr. Day except the Master and Surgeon who I allowed One Rix Dollar pr. Day on Government Account. The Seamen I directed to be at the Hospital & they found themselves perfectly satisfyed when they saw I was so near them.

But the Governor General in some Degree or the directions from Holland by which he was governed were reprehensible in point of Politeness in fixing my Residence at any particular place & I have only my ill health to plead as an excuse for accepting it. My grand object was to get into the Country & I then found sufficient friends with whom I might take up my abode by turns as I found it agreeable to me. But if any one had dared to have paid so much attention to an Englishman openly such a person would have had a bar to future promotion for to be Loyal is not to have the most powerfull Friends at Batavia. Among the many breaches of civility is the Stoppage of Carriages when the Governor or an Edellier is passing or any of his family for which no doubt they deserve to be overturned, but how can a Stranger get the better of it. You can only Hire a Coach which is drove by a Malay & that fellow will suffer Death before he will drive on when such a person is passing him so that you are mortified at being stopt for those people to pass and sometimes

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for half a Malay woman the Wife or Daughter of such an Edelliere.

It has surely been Batavia itself that has given Birth to such mean acts of incivility as these & we may trace their origin from a Clannishness & want of amiable female connections. Even a want of the latter Men become a set of Brutes & they are not much better at Batavia as very few indeed of the Women are above two degrees advanced from the Malay so that manners or Ideas soften or improve the dispositions of the men but very little. This is a fact and I assert that you will not find many well bread persons in Batavia if I except those Gentlemen who have not been confined to the education of that Metropolis. But even allow that these regulations have taken place from laudable motives originally it is certain that such reasons do not exist at present and therefore might be laid aside.

I have only now to observe how far the Company as a right could impose upon me a payment of 190 Dollars for myself & each of my Officers for leave only to Sail for Europe. For leave only because with respect to the Capt. of the Packet they had no power to make him take a passenger & he therefore would not admit me unless I paid him also for the convenience of his Ship & laid in for myself every necessary to eat & drink, on this point I objected as making two payments & the Sabander carried the matter before the General where it was settled that before I could go I must pay the Captain 300 Dollars for myself, Clerk & One Servant and lay in my own stock of liquor which amounted to 84½ Dollars the whole being 584½ Rix Dollars on the Captains account & 380 as a Droit of the Compys. which together made 764½ Dollars with a discount in my favour of 10 pr. Cent. The same charges are to be made for the Officers who remain & as on these conditions only I could settle my busyness I closed my transactions & gave written orders to the Master how to proceed and follow me to the Cape of Good Hope & from thence to Europe.

Orders to Mr. John Fryer, Master

Whereas from a representation of the Physician General it appears that my life is in great danger to remain here untill the Fleet for Europe Sails, and that only mself and two others can be taken in the Packet which departs on the 16 Instant, I therefore impower you to take command of such remaining Officers and Men & to follow me to the Cape of Good Hope by the first Ships His Excellency the Governor General shall permitt you to embark in. And as his Excellency has been pleased to order that the People may be taken care of at the Convalessent Hospital about 4 Miles from Town where is a good Air & the best of treatment you are hereby to see that every one remains there.

You are not to permitt any of those who remain in Town to be wandering about between the hours of 9 in the morning & 4 in the afternoon.

You are also upon your embarkation or at a proper time to get a knowledge of what charges are against His Majestys Subjects under your Command & upon fairly & duly considering them you are to draw Bills for the amount on the

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Commissioners for victualling His Majestys Navy (if it cannot be done as hereafter express’d) giving them a Letter of advice at the same time certifying that I sail’d to the Cape of Good Hope before you in a Packet that could take no more men, my health being so exceedingly impaired as to render my existence very doubtfull & that the Governor General could not give us all a passage in one Ship. I have agreed with the Sabandar that all debts on the Government account incurred for victualling or passage money shall be presented to him that then on your certifying the justness of it and another Signing Officer such account shall stand over untill presented to Government in England.

That of all such accounts you are to secure copies & to send them by different opportunities to me in England (Signed as before mentioned) to the care of Messrs. Marsh & Creed, Agents, Norfolk Street, Strand. You are also for further security to send one to your own Agent.

That before the departure of the People you are to allow each Seaman one months pay to buy warm Clothing to pass the Cape with & you may also give all the Officers one months pay for the same use except yourself and Surgeon.

I shall leave with you the Money received for the Schooner 177 duccatoons or 295 Rix Dollars for the expenditure of which you must produce regular vouchers but you are to pay no account without consulting the Sabandar that such accot. is at a moderate price.

The Board & Lodging for yourself & Doctor you may consider to be paid at One Rix Dollar pr. Day & for the Boatswain Gunner Mr. Elphinston, Mr. Hayward & Mr. Hallet One Rupee pr. Day & the charges for the Seamen in the Hospital from the 13th Octr. you may pay as demanded allowing for your Brother Robt. Tinkler at the same Rate to be put onto the General account and should it be demanded of you to pay the passage money for every individual before you sail you are seperately & distinctly for such passage money to draw Bills on the Treasurer of His Majesty’s Navy.

Before the Ships are ready for Sea you are from time to time to apply to Mr. Englehard the Sabandar who will assist you for the good of His Majesty’s Service & through him, or as circumstances may point out you are to make all necessary applications to the Governor Gn.

The remaining Men & Officers you are to take according to the Ships they are put into not seperating Mr. Hayward & Hallet. The Carpenter you must apply for to come with you and is to be considered a prisoner at large in the Ship.

On Embarkation you are to see that both Officers and Men conduct themselves with due order and Regularity.

On your arrival at the Cape of Good Hope you are forthwith to join me but should I not be there before the Ship you Sail in departs for Europe you are to make the best of your Way in the same ship & being arrived to proceed to the Admiralty to give an account of your

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transactions.

While you remain here you are to rexamine into the situation of the People in the Hospital twice a Week & if they are not properly treated to represent the same to the Sabandar.

The Carpenter having apply’d to me for Cloaths you are to supply him with a months pay to purchase the necessary articles he is in want of and to see that he is not ill treated.

Given under my hand at Batavia the 14 October 1789
Signed. Wm. Bligh

To
Mr. John Fryer
Master in His Majestys Navy.

Much to my mortification after all my trouble of bringing plants from Timor I was obliged to leave 6 Tubs of Jacks Nancas Karambolas Namnams Jambos and three thriving Breadfruit Plants. I desired application to be made that they might be brought in the different Ships my Officers came in as they would be highly valuable at the Cape of Good Hope if brought no farther. It was the 20th August I took these plants on board at Coupang so that they had experienced a passage of 42 days to my Arrival here. The Breadfruit died to the Root & Sprouted from thence & the Karambolas, Jack, Nancas & Namnams I rose from the seed and were in fine order hence a judgment may be formed of the success of bringing plants. In the present instance they had every disadvantage.

[Page 366]

Remarks Friday 16 October 1789

Modr. & Fair Wr. Wind Southly. W. b S.W.

At Dawn of day I left the Hotel and about 7 o’clock I sailed in the Packet called the Fly Captain Peter Couvret bound for Middleburgh.

Mr. John Samuels Clerk and John Smith Ab came with me. I could get leave for no more the vessel being very small altho I sollicited for the Surgeon.

Those who remained were –

John Fryer, Master
Wm. Cole, Boatswain
Wm. Pickover, Gunner
Wm. Elphinston, Mr. Mate
Thos. Hayward, Mid
John Hallet, Mid
Wm. Purcell, Carpenter
Thos. Ledward, Surgeon
Geo. Simpson, Ab
Laurence Lebogue, Ab
Peter Linkletter, Ab
Thos. Tinkler, Ab
Robt. Lamb, Ab

All of whom were in good health I could not get the General to determine in what Ships they could go in. I therefore could make no division but I was promised they should be put in as few Ships as possible and I trust they will arrive safe.

[Page 367]

Remarks

In the following Journal it is to be remembered that the Winds are by true Compass, the Dutch always having a moveable center Card which they set to true North and South as often as they discover the variation to alter 2½ Degrees.

In every Watch also the Officer corrects the course for lee way so that it is not to be supposed I have any judgment in finding my longd. by account.

They heave no Log, as such they say is not allowed by the Company. Their manner of computing their distance is thus. They have a distance of 40 feet measured along the Ship side from aft forward, and laying over at the after part they take notice of the first remarkable patch of froth that is made opposite to the other extremity of the measured distance. They then count half seconds untill the mark of froth is abreast of them, with which number they divide 48 and it gives them the Dutch miles the Ship runs in 4 Hours, or the English Miles in one hour. Example suppose they count 6, the sixes in 48 is 8 times which is 8 English Miles an hour; but I cannot learn from what principal it is founded on.

If we followed a similar plan of looking at the Sea we should mark a distance on the ships side of 50 feet and count seconds, then 30 divided by the number counted would give the distance the Ship runs pr. Hour; but happily we have adopted a Log and Line which is the most exact at measuring distances at Sea for general use and by it the greatest error in long Voyages is not more than 3 Degrees, while we know the Dutch to be frequently out 10 Degrees.

[Page 368]

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[Page 369]

Remarks on board the Fly Packet from Batavia to Cape of Good Hope.

Moderate Breezes and Cloudy Wr. with thunder Lightning and Rain. At 5 P.M. anchored to the southward of Pulo Baby in 13 fms. water, black sand (no bearing set). At day break weighed & Sailed. Steering along shore with variable Winds and Calms. Fever on me to Day.

Light varia. Winds & Calm. At 5 P.M. came to an anchor in 15 fms. under Pulo Pisang. Pulo Toppersute W. b N. Spoke an American Brig the Rambler. Sailed from Boston in Jany. last. Eight weeks from Isle de France bound to Batavia. A.M. weighed & Sailed. At Noon between Brabands hoedge and Isld. Dwars in de Weg. Fever as yesterday.

Thunder Lightg. & Rain. At Midnight Princes’s Island So. dist. 6 Miles. At Noon the weather appeared very unsettled. I take my departure from Princes Island allowing it in 6° 30’ So. 103° 30’ Eds.

Heavy Rains with Calms. Sea from the Southward. The Vessel struck very heavy in the Sea abaft, which obliged us to put in the Dead Lights. I found no Fever to day.

Fresh Breezes and Cloudy. In working the latitude to Day the Officers made no allowance for the varin. of Declinn. in this instance it was 6 Miles. A little Head Ach but no Fever.

Fresh Breezes and open Cloudy Wr. Saw 3 Boobies. My health improving, but Head Ach at intervals.

Fresh Breezes and fair Wr. Found to day that the Dutch regulate their Compass by an inner moveable Circle and always Steer a true Course. A very dangerous busyness as a Villian may move the Card and a Ship be lost by it. Saw Gannets and Boobies.

Fresh Breezes and fair. Smoked below. The Ship, Men and bedding very dirty. Saw Flying Fish, Boobies and Gannets. I learnt from the Captain to day that the Cocos Isles are full of Cocoa Nutt Trees. A Boat can land, but there is no anchorage. The Latitude is 12° 00’ S. and 96° 05’ Eds.

Fair Wr. I had forgot to remark that the People have a Prayer read to them every morning and Evening.

Fine Wr. My health still getting better, but still a slight Head Ach.

Do. Wr. and light Winds in the latter part. Many Tropic Birds about. A Slight Head Ach.

Dr. Wr. Variable Winds in the latter part. Struck a Dolphin. No wonder Dutch Ships make long passages if they carry as little Sail as we do. This afternoon I got a set of Lunar Observations West of the [indecipherable] which gave the Longd. 89° 20’ Ed. at 3° 49’.

Light Variable Winds with some Showers and Calms. I have been happily free of Head Ach and Fever to day.

Squally Wr. with Showers of Rain and fair Intervals. Under Single Reefs. My Health tolerably well.

Fresh Gales and open Cloudy Wr. Cleaned and smooked Ship with Gunpowder. This is the name only of cleaning Ship, they gather up what loose dirt is about and smooke without confining the Hatches. The Men are stinking and dirty with long beards, and their Bedding a nuisance, as may be conceived when they have not washed Hammocks since they have been from Europe. The Capt. in his person and bedding equally dirty. Some of the people not a second shift of Cloaths. Cookery so bad I cannot make a meal; such nasty beasts.

Fresh Breezes and Sea from the Southward. A Clear Sky. Tropic Birds seen and some Flying Fish. My Health appears now to be tolerably re-established.

[Page 370]

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[Page 371]

Remarks on board the Fly Packet from Batavia to Cape of Good Hope.

Fresh Breezes and Sea from the Southward and the Wind fixed there. Carrying generally single Reefed Top Sails and Top Gallant Sails and sometimes the Fore Top Mast Steering Sail.

Modr. & open Cloudy Wr. towards Night. Swell more from the Eastd. & Wind also. An Eclipse of the [symbol for sun ?] happened to day at Greenwich at 11 h. 27¾’ but it became no Eclipse here. The [indecipherable] time 11-27, 5-22, 16-49.

Moderate and Fair Wr. with some Squalls in the latter part.

Open Cloudy with Squalls & Rain in the middle part and a Southerly Sea all the morning.

Fresh Gales and Squally. Modr. and fair in the latter part. Under Single Reefs. Sea from the Southward.

P.M. Fair Wr. A.M. Cloudy and hazy as soon as the Wind came from N.E. Tropic Birds and Flying Fish. Cleaned Ship but filthy and in bad order after all.

First and middle parts fresh Gales and Squally with Rain and Wind flying round the Compass. A.M. Cloudy Wr. and Calms. My Head Ach again encreased to a great degree & at no time perfectly free of it.

Squally Wr. with Rain at times untill the morning then fair Wr. and Cloudy. Under Single Reefs and Top Gallt. Sails at Noon when Royals and T. Gt. Steering Sails should be set.

Modr. and Cloudy Wr. Tropic Birds about.

First and Middle part fresh Breezes and Cloudy with Rain, the latter Modr. and fair. Jogging on in a Slovenly way. The Captains and Mates latitude differs from mine frequently 6 Miles. They are now come however to allow for the variation of the Sun’s Declination.

Fresh Breezes and Cloudy Wr. with some Rain. No Observation.

Dark Cloudy Wr. with Rain and Squalls. No Observation.

Moderate and Cloudy Wr. Much Sea from the Southward. A few Sheerwaters about.

Moderate and fine Wr. Under Single Reefs when we should have Royals and all Sails set. Between Europe and the Cape every day that the Commr. of a Ship makes his passage in less than 3 months he is allowed 20 shillings Sterling pr. Day and the 1st Lieut. 10/-. Between the Cape and Java for every day less than 8 weeks the same allowance and yet these People will not exert themselves.

Dr. Wr. Jogging on.

Do. Wr. Do. Employed.

Very serene & fine Wr. Every Star could be seen through the whole night to set as clear as the Sun.

Do. Wr. the first part, the middle and latter fresh Gales & fair. Under Single Reefs.

Fresh Gales and fair Wr., the first and middle part, the latter part Gales & exceedingly Hazy. At 20h. 44’ Latd. 29° 27’ S. Longd. obsd. [indecipherable] & [indecipherable] 42° 2’ Eds. reduced to Noon is 41° 47’ Eds.

[Page 372]

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[Page 373]

Remarks on board the Fly Packet towards the Cape of Good Hope.

Fresh Breezes and hazy Wr. first and middle part. Fresh Gales and thick Wr. with Squalls and Rain. Saw some large Albetrosses, Sheerwaters and Mother Carys Chicken. No Observation at Noon.

Fresh Gales and Squally unsettled Wr. but the middle & latter part fresh Breezes and fair Wr. This afternoon the 1st Lieut. saw a land Bird, upon which the Captain believed he was too near the Coast of Caffras [?] & stood to the S.Ed. I have not yet got him to put faith in my Observations.

Do. Wr. At 2h. 54’ 18" Longd. Dist. [indecipherable] & [indecipherable] 40° 39’ 30" East which reduced back to Noon gives as per Column. This proves an Error of 7° 30’ in our reckoning in this short run & the Captain is so alarmed about the land Bird being seen that he even believes himself near the Coast, in which case he readily admits an Error of full 15 Degrees in his account. But how should these people be certain of more exactness when they heave no Log but guess at their Runs.

Fresh Breezes and Fair W. At 2h. 15’ Longd. Dist. [indecipherable] 41° 14’ Ed. which reduced to Noon back gives as per Column.

Fresh Gales and Fair Wr. the first and middle part the latter Do. with Cloudy Wr. and Rain. Under Close Reefs. No observation at Noon.

Fresh Gales and Cloudy Wr. with Rain the first and middle part the latter Fair. Some Albetrosses and Sheerwaters.

Fresh Gales and Fair Wr. First part, middle and latter light Winds and fair Wr. At 5h. 4’ I found the Longd. from Dist. [indecipherable] & [indecipherable] 37.8.30 Eds. which reduced to Noon back is as pr. Column.

Strong Gales first and middle part, latter fresh Gales and thick foggy Wr. In the middle part the Wind shifted with Rain, Thunder and Lightning from the N.N.W. to the S.W. and towards day round to the North again. At Noon under Dble. Reefs. Albetrosses and Sheerwaters.
The Capt. tells me that no Ship after the last of October is allowed to Sail for Europe from Batavia untill the Month of January, and this is to avoid being near the Mauritius in the months of December and January when Hurricanes are very heavy there.

Modr. & Cloudy Wr. Wind shifting by the West. Saw several Whales, Albetrosses and Sheerwaters.

Strong Gales and fair Wr. with much Sea. Albertrosses and Sheerwaters. Sometimes under Courses and at others Close Reefed Main Top Sail.

Strong Gales and Squally some Rain. Albetrosses and Sheerwaters. Under Sail as yesterday.

Do. Wr. the first part, the middle and latter light Winds variable and Calms. Some Albetrosses & Sheerwaters.

Modr. and fair Wr. This afternoon about One o’clock the Fore Top Mast was found split in the Heel and Fid Hole. The Captain therefore would have it shifted which took them untill 10 o’clock at Night to get the Rigging over head. At 4 A.M. got the Top Mast swayed up, and not untill 11 o’clock did they set any other Sail than close Reefed Fore Top Sail and Dble. Reefed Main Top Sail. I then could not help speaking of it.

Light Airs & Calms. Under Single Main & Dble. Reefed Fore Top Sails & Main Top Gt. Sail. The Captain has now determined not to set his F. T. Gt. Sail, for he has stowed his Mast away below. Albetrosses & Sheerwaters.

P.M. Calm and fair Wr. A.M. Moderate and Hazy. Wind freshening towards noon.

[Page 374]

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[Page 375]

Rems. on Board the Vlydt Packet from Batavia to the Cape of Good Hope.

Fine Wr. first part, middle Foggy, latter Light Airs and Calms. A very heavy Dew at Night. The Officers and me differ 8 Miles in Latitude.

Do. Wr. and Cloudy in the latter part. Jogging on. Some Albetrosses and Sheerwaters.

Modr. and Fair first and middle part, latter fresh wind and Cloudy. Error in Currt. 20 miles in Latd. to S.E. Latd. DR 34° 27’ So., Longd. by Observn. brought on agrees to a great nicety.

Modr. and open Cloudy Wr. at 5 P.M. saw the Land. A high necked Mountain near the Bay of Algeah uneven on one side like a Cockscomb N.W. b N. At 6 o’clock Kd. the Peaked Mountain N.N.W. ½ N. 16 Leagues. A round Top’d Mountain with flat Cape land underneath it N. ½ W. & the Extremes of the Coast from N.W. ½ W. to N.E. off shore 7 or 8 Leags. At 8 A.M. Kd. and stood in shore. Round Top Mountain N. b Ed. At Noon round Top Mountain W.E. b E. ¼ E. and the Peeked Mountain N. b W. dist. off shore 8 or 9 Leags.

The whole Coast a range of Mountainious land. Our reckonings are now proved to be 7½ Degrees wrong as my Longd. Obsd. pointed out before; yet the Captain has not a disposition to acknowledge it. Many Gannets.

First and latter part Fair Wr. and Calms. Middle Cloudy with Fresh Breezes. At 7 P.M. Extremes of the Land in sight N.E. to N.W. b W. off shore 6 Leags. Peeked Mountain N. b W. ¼ W. Round Top Do. N. b E. ¼ E. At 7 A.M. Hazy Wr. Saw the Peaked Mountain N. ¼ W. Many Gannets seen. At Noon too Hazy to see the land. At 4 P.M. sounded Ground 65 fms. fine Sand.

At 20h. 25’ 13" Latd. 34° 37’ So. Longd. Obsd. [indecipherable – nautical symbols] 22° 55’ 45" E. 10’ Equal to 22° 46’ E. at Noon which by the Maps of the Soundings on board is exceedingly exact.

Strong Gales & fair Wr. Under Courses. Much Sea. Gannets, albetrosses and Mother Careys Chicken. Struck T.G.M.

Modr. & Cloudy Wr. with some Showers of Rain with little Wind at times. The Wind came fair about 3 P.M. & we continued jogging on untill 8 A.M. when they began to let the Reefs out & get up T. G. Masts. At 20 set Fore T.M. and lower Steering Sails.

Modr. & fair Wr. At Sun Set in Studg. Sails. In the Night reefed the T.G. & made no more Sail untill 9 A.M. when I having taken notice of it the Reefs were let out & M.T.G. Sail set. At Noon hove to & sounded no Ground at 90 fms. Found our reckoning out 42 Miles being that to the Southd. of where we supposed ourselves. Current to the W.S.W.

Fine pleasant Wr. with Calms in the forenoon. Jogging on as usual. Capts. latd. 6 M. as is common different from mine.

Do. Wr. At 3 P.M. saw the land N. b E. At 7 saw the Cape of Good Hope N. ½ W. about 10 leags. & the East part of the Hottentots Land N.N.E. ½ E. The Cape land appeared like small Islands & the Hottentots land which is to the Eastward of False Bay, High Mountainous Land. Saw a ship standing to the E.S.E. At 10 P.M. it came on to blow very hard with a great Sea from the S.W. & brought us under Courses. A.M. at 8 set close Reefed Top Sails. At 9 modr. Wr. At Noon, land near the Cape N. b E. abt. 8 leags. We might now with good Sail weather the Cape but we are jogging on under close reefed T. & Dbl. Reefed M.T. Sail & Courses. A Strong Current has been setting us to the Westward.

Modr. and fair Wr. with Light Winds in the latter part. At 7 P.M. the Cape land E. ¼ N. 6 Leags. Table Mountain N.E. b N. The Captain now kept to the N.W. untill morning for fear of being too near the Shore when at 7 A.M. the Table Mountain bore E. ¾ S., 8 or 9 leags. from the Shore. At Noon Table Mountain E. ½ S. and the West high land of False Bay S.E. ½ E. Dist. from Table Bay West about 7 or 8 Leags. Cape of Good Hope not to be seen from the Deck. Wr. rather Hazy. Long Trumpet Weed. Seals. Pengwins and Gannets.

Do. Wr. This afternoon we got into the Bay and about Sun Set anchored. Found several French Ships here. Some Dutch bound to Batavia and an English Whale Fisher called the British Queen.

At Midnight ends Log Account of Time.

[Page 376]

Remarks at the Cape of Good Hope. Civil Account.

Fair Wr. with Calms in the first part.

About 9 o’clock in the Morning I got on shore by favour of a stranger Boat, common civility and attention being so much wanting here that I could not procure a passage. About 11 o’clock I waited on the Governor, His Excellency Jacob Corneilus Vande Graaf who received me with every degree of politeness, and in the most friendly manner felt for my misfortune offering me every assistance that laid in his power. I presented an account to him of the loss of the Ship with a description list, and requested in his Majestys Name that the Pirates might be taken if they appeared.

I dined with His Excellency this day and he informed me of Captain Hunter having sailed from this in February with necessary articles for Port Jackson. He was in the Sirius and had come last round Cape Horn. That Lieut. Riou in the Gardian had also been here and sailed about 8 days ago loaded with Cattle and necessary articles for Port Jackson. That Capt. Straghan had been here also in the Vestal outward bound.

This day arrived here the Astrae French Frigate commanded by Le Compt. de St. Rivel from Isle de France with the late Governor Le Chevalier d’Entrecastaux.

Captain Cornwallis with his Squadron did not touch at this Place.

General Remarks.

I remained at this place untill Monday the 28th when the Captain having received his despatches we embarked. Westerly Winds however prevented our sailing untill Saturday afternoon 2nd Jany. 1790 when a Southerly Wind carried us to Sea. The Astrae Frigate sailed in Compy.

The Harpy South Sea Whaler arrived here with about 500 Barrels Spermaceti & 400 of Real Whale. They had seen Commodore Cornwallis (at Johanna) in the Crown, with the Phenix, Perseverance and Atalanta Sloop. They sailed from Johanna on the 6th August last. The Crown had been on shore and nearly lost. The Ariel left them after they had passed the Cape.

A Dutch Packet called the Expedition arrived after a passage of 4 months from Europe.

A French Forty Gun Frigate and a Brig with an Indiaman and two other French Ships arrived from the Eastward. The latter had slaves from Mosambic bound to the West Indies.

Pondicherry evacuated.

During my stay here the vast attention and politeness of Governor Vande Graaf can be only equalled by his great inclination to render every service to his Majestys subjects. I have to thank His Excellency for his peculiar civility, and particularly as independent of being a British Officer I had daily singular marks of his friendship.

My health lately began to improve very much and I determined not to wait for my people who were to follow me, as such a proceeding could be of no use but on the contrary attended with expence, and my time of arrival in England be later by at least 6 weeks, in the course of which it appears probable to me that Government may have other means, than through an immediate equipment to send in quest of the Pirates. Another reason equally strong is, that we must still continue our route in different Ships, so that my staying here can answer no one end.

[Page 377]

There is a general order from the Company that no person who takes his passage from Batavia for Europe can be admitted to leave the Ship untill she arrives at her intended Port. This information came only to my knowledge on my taking leave of the Governor General at Batavia, & too late for him to give the Captain a written order to permit me to land in the Channel, he however to prevent me from labouring under such an inconvenience gave me leave to make use of his name to Governor Vande Graaf, that he might give the Captain of the Packet necessary orders for my disembarking if I found it elligible. It was most readily complied with, and the Captain had written orders to that effect. A copy of which was also given to me by his Excellency himself and likewise Honorary letters in case I should be obliged to proceed to any part of Holland.

The Fruit in Season at this time weare Apricots, Pears, Almonds, Figs, Plumbs and Mulberries. Very few Grapes were yet ripe.

Chevalier d’Entrecastaux having politely offered his service to take any letters I wished home, induced me to inform the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty of my proceedings, but the wind prevented his Sailing until we accompanied him.

I left a letter with Mr. Brand to be sent to Commodore Phillips by the first opportunity – this contained a short account of my voyage and a description list of the Pirates, so that every part in India will be prepared to receive them, as I informed Lord Cornwallis from Batavia and orders are sent to all the Dutch Settlements.

On the day of my leaving this place I received the following information.

That a respectable Farmer called Holhousen, who is one of the members of the Country of Swellendam and lives there (8 days journey from Cape Town) has had information from the Caffrae Hottontots that in their Country there was a Craul (Hottontot Village) where were white Men and Women and which this person supposed to be some of the Groveners Crew lost on that Coast. He asked the Governor permission to go in search of these people through the Country of the Hottontots, with some of the Farmers, and that he requested only to bear his expences 1000 Rix Dollars. The Governor refered him to the Landros Mr. Wocke of Graverennett (a new Colony in his way) to enquire about it for more certain information and get leave of him. But the place where Mr. Holhousen lived to where the Landros Mr. Wocke lived is a month’s journey, he therefore could not think of risking such a journey, when after all he might be refused by the Landros & obliged to return with all his expences which would be too great for him to bear.

It is thought that to find these unfortunate people an expedition must be made by land through the Caffra Country from some of the Dutch Settlements, and that no knowledge will be gained of them on the Sea Coast. Month of Septr. best time to begin the expedition. It may last 5 or 7 months. People can be got who understand the language. The Party should be at least 10 Europeans and about 12 Hottontots to attend the Waggons and Cattle.

It was in October last that Mr. Holhousen offered to go on the expedition. He was among those who went in search of the unfortunate people (when a few of them first made their appearance at the Cape) along the Sea side.

[Page 378]

I have only to remark on the above account, that could I have had time to have asked the Governor about it, he would perhaps have put it in another point of view, for I have been informed that the Dutch Farmers are fond of such expeditions that they may have opportunities of taking away Cattle. It is from such like reason perhaps that the Governor has not encouraged the undertaking, an Expedition which I am sure if he thought was to be attended with any success he would most readily set on foot and render effective by every means in his power.

If there are people still desirous at home to determine this affair, leave should be got from Holland and the expedition instantly set on foot, as many will be found to undertake it and surely as here 1000 Rix Dollars is only stated as the expence, a much larger sum may instituted to insure success; but I would advise that the party whoever they are should be obliged to go at least 100 Miles to theNorthward of where the Ship was lost.

[Page 379]

Remarks concerning the Weather

The Companys ships are not allowed to lie in Table Bay which is open to N.Wly. Winds from 15 May to 15 August.

The Rain begins in the Month of May & continues untill the last of August. In August & Septr. the Wind is remarked to be mostly S.Wly.

Very Stormy Weather begins sometimes in the Month of April and the Seas come heavy into Table Bay.

Upon the whole from what I have been able to learn we may consider –

May, June, July, Augt. – Stormy Months with Rain. Winds Wly. and N.Wly.
September, October – VariableWr., S.Wly. Winds.
November, December, January, February – Fair Summer Wr. mostly S.Ely. Winds.
March, April – Variable Wr. and Winds.

Since I have been here the Winds have been from South by the West to N.N.W.

[Page 380]

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[Page 381]

Remarks from Cape of Good Hope towards England.

Fair Wr. &. Wind variable between the S. &. W. At 5 P.M. Sailed in Compy. with the Astrae French Frigate and passed to the Northd. of Robben Isld. A.M. Frigate not in sight or Land. Under Single Reefs & T.G. Sls. DR 33° 22’.

First part fair Wr. middle and latter Cloudy. Wind variable from S.W. to N.N.W. Saw a Gannet. Under Dble. Reefs and T. Gt. Sails. Lat. by acct. 32° 06’ S.

Strong Breezes and fair Wr. Sea from the Southward. Under Single Reefs and no T. Gt. Sails. Any other Ship would be carrying every SteeringSail. Lat. by Acct. 30° 15’ S.

Fresh Gales and Hazy Wr. Saw some Trumpet Weed. A.M. set lower and Fore Top Mt. Steering Sails. Latd. by acct. 28° 13’ S. Current every day setting to the Northward. Mother Carys Chicken.

Fresh Breezes & Cloudy Wr. Saw an Albetross. F.T. Mt. and lower Steering Sls. set. Reef in M. Top Sls.

Do. Wr. Saw some Trumpet Weed. At Night in Steerg. Sails – in the morng. set Fore Top Mt. Steering Sail.

Do. Wr. Studg. Sails in at Night and jogging on. Taking the days upon an average I am certain that if I had the command of this vessel I could run 1½ Knot pr. Hour more than this Man.

Do. Wr. Jogging on. Fore Top Mast & lower Steerg. Sails set at Noon and always 1 Reef in the M.T. Sl. We should now be carrying T. Gt. Studg. Sails and Royals.

Do. Wr. Saw some Trumpet Weed. Studg. Sails in at Night & not set again untill 8 in the morning.

Do. Wr.

Do. Wr. Fish seen.

Do. Wr. This Cloudy Wr. is very pleasant as we feel no heat but a pleasant refreshg. air. We might now sail pr. day 160° W.

Do. Wr. with bright intervals. At 5 P.M. saw St. Helena bearing W. ½ N. dist. 14 leags. North part a high Round Head. Steered to the Eastward of it. At 6 A.M. it bore S. ½ E. true dist. 12 leags. Take a departure allowing it in 15° 55’ S. 5° 49’ W. Error in acct. 2° 07’ astern of the Ship.

Fresh Breezes and Clear Wr. T.M. and lower Steering Sails set.

Do. Wr. Do. Sail.

Fine Pleasant Wr. Caught a Boneto.

Do. Wr.

Light Winds and fine Wr. Saw a Gannet.

Do. Wr. At day break saw Assension bearg. N.W. At Noon it bore W.N.W. 8 Leags. from whence its latd. is 7° 57’ So. and Longd. 14° 09’ W. Longd. by Requisite Tables is 14° 22’ W. and Lat. 7° 57’ So.

Modr. Breezes and fair Wr. At 8 P.M. Island Asscension S.S.W. Dist. 18 miles.

Do. Wr. Flying Fish and Portuguese Men of War.

Dro. Wr. Fish about.

Light Winds and Fair Wr. Fish About.

Do. Wr.

[Page 382]

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[Page 383]

Remarks from the Cape of Good Hope towards England.

Fair Wr. P.M. Cloudy with Thunder Lightning and Rain. P.M. crossed the Line in Longd. 18° 10’ W. about 2 o’clock. Swell from the Northward. No Observation.

Modr. Wr. and Cloudy with Thunder Lightning and Rain. Saw some Bonetos. I find the Dutch are obliged to cross the line between the Longd. of 355° and 3° of Tenerif as they count it that is between 5° west of Tenerif and 3° East a space of 8 degrees.

Light Wind. Calms. Thunder and heavy Rain. Caught a Boneto. Wr. sultry & unpleasant. Outward bound in 1788 I had just this Wr. in the same situation and same time of the year and South of the Line the Wr. is fine and serene.

Light Airs, Calms & Cloudy Wr. Flocks of Gull Petterals on the Water. No Observation.

Do. Wr. Thunder Lightning and heavy Rain.

Light Airs Fair Wr. and Calms. Many Fish about.

Do. Wr. and very Hazy.

Light Airs and Calms in the first part, latter light Breezes and Cloudy. Fish seen. Very hazy.

Moderate Breezes and fair Wr. Fish seen. Very Hazy.

Light Breezes and fair Wr. Fish seen.

Do. Wr. Very Hazy. Many Flying Fish seen.

Moderate Breezes Fair Wr. and exceedingly Hazy.

Fresh Breezes and thick Hazy Wr. equal to a Fog.

Fresh Gales and thick Hazy Wr. almost as bad as a Fog under Dble. Reefs. Our Sails covered with fine orange colour dust for these two days which one would be led to believe was blown from a Country full of Vulcanos if we were not in a known part. Fuego Westermost Isle of the Cape de Verds lies in 14° 57’ S. Longd. 24° 28’ West. Saw some Grampuses.

Very fresh Gales and Hazy Wr. Under Courses & Close Reefed Main Top Sail. Down T. Gt. yards. These two Nights past we have been passing some shoals laid down by the Dutch to the W.S.W. of Fuego. Many Flying Fish. Ship kept about 8 points from this Wind.

Strong Gales and Hazy Wr. and much Sea. Ship a most violent motion. Under Courses & Close Reefed M.T.S.

Strong Gales & very squally Wr. Ship’d some heavy seas. Do. Sail. We keep within 8 points of the Wind.

Do. Wr. Moderating towards the latter part. Much Sea.

Do. Gales with intervals of moderate Wr. & at times very squally with some light Rain.

Fresh Breezes and squally with showers of Rain.

Light Winds with Calms. Saw many patches Sea Weed small leaf & full of berries light yellow colour.

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[Page 385]

Remarks from the Cape of Good Hope towards England.

Light winds. Sea Weed as yesterday. In the forenoon got some Lunar Observations. At 22h. 54’ Longd. Obsd. [indecipherable – nautical symbols] 39° 12’ W.

Do. Wr. and Sea Weed passing us. In the Forenoon got Lunar observations. At 23 h. 11’ Long. observed [indecipherable] 39° 17’ W.

Do. Wr. and much Sea weed which the Dutch call Krose Weed. Longd. per observation at Noon is from following afternoon.

Do. Wr. and much Sea Weed as before, picked up many pieces of it and found Small Crabs, Fish and Shrimps. A 3h. 16’ 32" Longd. by Dist. [indecipherable] 39 . 35 . 30 West.

At 2h. 26 8 Longd. from Dist. [indecipherable] 40° 4’ 15" W. Light winds calms and Cloudy Wr. some Rain. Much Sea Weed.

Moderate Breezes and fair Wr. Much Sea Weed as yesterday. At 3h. 43’ Longd. from Dist. [indecipherable] 39° 41’ W.

First part variable Wr. the latter fresh Breezes and Cloudy. Passing much Sea Weed as before. My Lunar Observations give my reckoning out 1° 03’ and the Captains 3° 54’ too much East.

First part Fresh Breezes and Fair. Middle and latter fresh Gales and Squally with Squalls of Rain. At 10 P.M. a Brig passed us steering to the S.S.W. Wind came to the N.W. Sea Weed seen.

Strong Breezes and fair Wr. with light Winds towards the latter part. Saw Sea Weed as before and some Whales.

Do. Wr. first and middle part, the latter Strong Gales and Cloudy Wr. with spiting Rain. Saw Sea Weed. At Noon 316 Leagues west of Madeira. Got an indifferent Observation. Under Dble. Reefed M.T.S. Fore Sail and Close Reefed F.T.S.

First part Strong Gales. Middle and latter Fair Wr. and Moderate Gale. At Noon a fine pleasant Air and bright Sun, but we continue with our Reefs in and Top Gt. Masts down because they were struck in the Evening.

First part Fair Wr. The middle and latter Fresh Gales and Cloudy. P.M. up T. Gt. Mts. and set Main T. Gt. Sail and Out Reefs. A.M. close Reefed the F.T.Sl. Thick Weather. No observation. Corvo N. 42° E. 231 Miles.

Fresh Gales and thick Rainy Wr. A.M. got sights of the Sun which gave Latd. by Dble. Altds. 39° 54’ N. and got a glimpse of the [nautical symbol] at Noon which gave as per Column. Corvo by L. and DR S. 85° E. dist. 97 Miles.

Fresh Gales and thick Wr. untill 8 P.M. then cleared and came almost Calm. At midnight it came on from the N.N.W. & N.W. a very hard Gale and continued to blow in heavy Squalls the remainder of these 24 Hours with Sleet and fair Intervals. Mostly under our courses. P.M. a Gannet was seen, which I imagine came from the Island Garea (Latd. 4 . 12 N. & 50 leags. fm. Corvo). At Noon fine Wr. out 3d. Reefs of the Top Sails.

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[Page 387]

Remarks from the Cape of Good Hope towards England.

Moderate and Cloudy Wr. but not untill 8 A.M. did we let the Reefs out and set a T. Gallant Sail, towards Noon set fore Fore T. Mast and lower Steering Sails. The Dutch lay down 5 Rocks as high as a Ship in Latd. 44° 25’ N. and 2 . 50 E. in Longd. from the East End St. Michael, which Capt. Couveet says is certain.

Fresh Gale and Cloudy Wr. with light Sun Shine. P.M. in Steering Sails and 2 Reefs. At Noon in 3d. Reefs and hauled more up.

Fresh Gales and Cloudy Wr. Middle and latter part thick Rain. Saw three Vessels standing to the Westward on a Wind. Just at Noon got the Sun’s Altd. 38 . 29 which gives the Latitude 45° 51’ N. At Noon very unpleasant Wr. What I consider true is 45° 37’.

Do. Wr. untill the Morning when it came dry Wr. with the Sun out at times. Not untill Noon were any Reefs let out. People very wet and uncomfortable and so little attention paid to them that I expect they will be laid up with Colds.

Modr. and Cloudy Wr. A.M. Fresh Breezes and fair. At 12h. 17’ Longd. from Dist. [indecipherable] 18° 21’ W.

Very Fine Wr. and Strong Northern Lights. Sea full of luminous blubbers. A.M. Fresh Gales and thick cloudy Wr. and Rain. Under Close Reefs at Noon. Had two sights of the Sun about Noon which proved I had the first nearest the truth.

Strong Gales and thick Wr. untill Sun set when it came clear and continued so with Strong Gales the remaining part of these 24 Hours. Saw several Vessels outward bound. At 7 o’clock P.M. I observed the Latd. by Sirius 49° 05’ North. At 8 A.M. sounded and 105 fms. Line out and got ground, I suppose at 90 fms. fine White Sand. At 20h. 38’ apparent time I got a set of Observations which gave the Longitude 10° 48’ 30" West which red’d to Noon is as per Column. Longd. brought on from last Obsn. 10° 15’ W. At Noon, Scilly N. 76° E. dist. 49 Leags.

P.M. Fine Wr. A.M. Thick Misty Wr.

85 – From 8 A.M. yesterday we run 10 leags. and sounded 85 fms. pieces of old Shells and Stones of of different colours. At 1 P.M.
75 – From 1 P.M. we run 4 leags. At 5 P.M. sounded 75 fms. old broken Shells and brown Gravel.
74 – From 5 P.M. run 4 Leags. to 8 o’clock & sounded 74 fms. fine light coloured Sand & black spots.
80 – From 8 o’clock run 5 1/3 leags. and sounded 80 fms. fine light coloured sand at midnight.
72 – From midnight run 4 leags. to 4 o’clock A.M. and sounded 72 fms. light drab coloured sand.
74 – From 4 A.M. run 5 1/3 leags. and sounded at 8th 74 fms. fine light coloured sand.
68 – From 8 A.M. run 4 leags. to Noon & had 68 fms. light coloured sand & a few fine pieces of Shells.

At Noon thick foggy Wr. but in the course of the Forenoon I got Altds. which gave me the Latitude 49° 27’ N.

The above Soundings were with a true East Course in Latd. 49 . 21 N. by acct.

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[Page 389]

Remarks in the Channel

Thick Foggy Wr.

60 – After running 47 Miles East sounded at 5 o’clock P.M. 60 fms. Light coloured fine sand and reddish specks.
59 – After running 3 Leags. to 8 P.M. sounded 59 fms. light reddish coloured fine sand.
57 – After running 4 Leags. sounded at Midnight 57 fms. – reddish fine Shelly sand a little coarser than the former soundings.

Thus far an East Course as yesterday.

54 - After running E. b N. 14 Miles sounded 54 fms. reddish Shelly Sand with some fine fibrous parts of Weed and Coral.
47 – After running N.E. b. ½ E. 14 Miles sounded at 8 A.M. 47 fms. Coarse Shelly soundings with some rotten Stone, one piece as large as the end of my finger. I now considered we were abreast of the Lizard. Latitude in 49° 38’ N. by acct.

At 9h. spoke Nichs. Symons a St. Maires fisherman, bought Mackrel 15 for a Spanish Dollar. He assured us the Lizard bore N.N.W. 7 Leagues.

43 – After running 14 Miles to Noon sounded 43 fms. coarse Shelly Sand. I thought 43 fms. was too little depth but I found the Line was justly marked.

P.M. Thick Foggy Wr. Captain very much frightned. A.M. Clear Wr. Afraid to make the Land.

From Noon to 4 P.M. Steered E. b N. 14 Miles. Soundings 43 fms. fine light coloured Sand and very large pieces of Scollop Shells. 42 fms. Shelly Sand and small pieces Scollop Shells. From 4 to 8 P.M. E. ¾ N. 15 Miles. Soundgs. 42 fms. fine sand light reddish colour. 39 fms. fine light coloured Sand and some small Shells. From 8 P.M. to 12 P.M. E. b N. 12 Miles soundgs. 35 & 36 fms. Shelly Sand. From Midnight to 4 A.M. E. b N. 8 Miles soundgs. 38½ fms. coarse Shelly Sand and 39 fms. Do. soundings with a few bits of Rotten Stone in it, a sign of being abreast of Portland. From 4 A.M. to 8 A.M. E. b N. 12 Miles and N.E. b E. 2 Miles. Soundings 35 and 38 fms. At 9½h. saw Portland Bearing N.W. ½ N. 8 Leags. distant. At Noon The Bill N.W. b W. ¾ W. 10 Leags.

Sunday P.M. or Saturday Afternoon by Civil Account I got an Isle of White Boat and left the Packet, at Midnight got to the George in Portsmouth and on Sunday 10 o’clock in the forenoon 14th March took post Chaise for Town where I arrived that Night.

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[See image for various drawings with the following captions]

This appears of New Holland next to Restoration Island west ¼ mile from Restoration Point.

Thus appears the Coast of New Holland to the southward of the above, A being a part of a deep bay which joins to it behind D.

Thus the coast to the southward appears when on Restoration Point, were all the views are taken. B.B. being the same point – C Restoration Island.

These views I took the morning after I landed on Restoration Island.

Wm. Bligh

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[Transcribed by Judy Gimbert for the State Library of New South Wales]