Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales
'A Log of the proceedings of His Majesty's Ship Providence on a second Voyage to the South Sea Under the command of Captain William Bligh, to carry the Breadfruit Plant from the Society Islands to the West Indies, written by himself', Volume 1, 17 July 1791 - 19 July 1792
SAFE / A 564 / 1
[Cover]
[Inside front cover]
[Page 3]
A Log of the proceedings of His Majesty's Ship Providence on a second Voyage to the South Sea Under the command of Captain William Bligh, to carry the Breadfruit Plant from the Society Islands to the West Indies, written by himself
[Page 4]
Rem.
This Log contains an account of a voyage to the South Sea under the Command of Captain Mr. Bligh written by himself
The failure of the Voyage under my command in His Majestys Armed Vessel Bounty when it was in a fair way of succeeding, led his most gracious Majesty to direct it to be put into execution a second time, and with the Ship I was to command, a small Vessel was likewise to be procured about 100 Tons Burthen to go in company with me.
On the 10th of March 1791 I received orders to search after such Vessels as I thought would answer. - The only el ligible ship that I could find was on Mr. Perrys slip at Blackwall, and she was purchased on the 23rd upon conditions of being ready to be launched in the month.
In the course of this Time I got a small vessel Brig of the Tonnage prescribed, and that the upmost dispatch might be used, she was taken into a merchants yard to undergo a repair, and to have every thing done that was necessary.
On the 16th of April I had the honor to receive my Commission to command the Providence, and she was launched with that name on the 23rd as Mr. Perry had engaged. On the same day she was taken to Woolwich to be Coppered, and on the 30th was brought up to Deptford.
The small Vessel was equally forward, and named the Assistant The Command of her was given to Lieutenant Nathanil Portlock a person of my recommending.
Her Burthen was 110 tons, Length of Keel for Tonnage 51:4Ό"
Extreme Breadth 20:1Ό", and depth in the Hold of 910"
The Providence was a superior Ship of her Class, with Three Decks and 420 Tons burthen. Her length of Keel for Tonnage was 9811" the breadth 29 feet, depth in the Hold 122" Height in the upper Deck 66" and in the lower deck 410 Her
[Page 5]
Complement was 100 Men including 20 Marines, and that of the Assistant 27 including 4 Marines.
The whole Ca`b bin was fitted up for the Plants, and Two Botanists Gardeners were appointed by Sir Joseph Banks to go the Voyage, and I had orders to bear them as Supernumeraries.
On the 7th May we began to fit out, but owing to a strict Press and a large Armament, we got so few Men, that untill the 19th June we were not ready to go down the River. Ships draught of water forward 1410" aft 152".
On the 22nd June we dropt down to Galleons, and having taken on board 12 Carriage Guns and 14 Swivels, and the Assistants 4 four pounders & 8 Swivel, with all Gunners Stores, we sailed on the 6th July.
On the 7th July anchored at the little Nore when we were joined by ones Lieut. Pearce one Sergeant, 2 Corporals 1 Drummer and 15 private Marines, from Chatham Division.
I found the Ship to require more ballast. I had permition of Admiral Dalrymple to go into Sheerness, and on the 8th after mooring along side the Hulk we began to clear the Hold where we took in 20 Tons of Iron ballast & 15 Tons of Shingle.
On the 12 July in the morning we sailed from Sheerness. Ships draught of Water 159" aft 15 forward.
On the 13th passed through the Downs and on The 16th Anchored at Spithead and moored in 8 fathoms water. South Sea Castle [EBN1/2N?] 3 Miles. Fort Monkton NW1/2N &
St. Helens point SbW. Lord Hood Commanded here with 36 Sail of the Line and Admiral Roddam in the Harbour.
[Page 6]
Rem. at Spithead
1791 July
Sunday 17
Winds NEly
Light winds and foggy weather. Employed cleaning Ship
Monday 18
Winds NE
Variable weather but moderate, some showers
Tuesday. 19
Winds NNW WbS West
Rainy weather & strong winds. PM received 8 Hhds of Beer, 16 Hhds Water 4 firkins of Butter 3 Barrels of Cheese 25 Kegs of Essence of Malt. AM rec. 162lbs fresh beef Some Boatswain & Carpenters stores from the yard. - Sent the sml Br. cable on shore to be surveyed. AM received my Final Orders.
Wednesday 20
Winds NNW
Fresh gales & cloudy Wr. Received Boatswain & Carpenters stores - 80 Hhds of water & returned empty casks. I made application for the People to be paid their Bounty money & two months advance. Mustered Ships Compy.
Thursday 21
Winds WbN
Ditto PM received a new cable Ten tons of iron ballast nine boxes of bore cole Eleven boxes of portable soup & four Half Hhds red wine. Sent four men, Philip Nelder, Jn French, Jn Russel and Peter Murray to the Hospital.
Friday 22
Winds WSW
Mod. breezes & fair Wrs. Recd 30 bags of bread. AM. The Clerk of the Cheque came & paid the Bounty money Ships draught of water forward 152" aft 162"
Saturday 23
Winds SSW to WbS
Fresh winds & variable weather. AM The Commissioner came on board and paid the People two months advance. Received 691lbs fresh beef.
Sunday 24
Winds WSW SW
Ditto AM received 9 Hhds Beer Read the Articles of War Washed & cleaned ship Ready for sea.
Monday 25
Winds WbS
Fresh Gales and cloudy Wr. some rain. Punished Jn James Marine , for absenting himself from the ship, with 12 lashes
Tuesday 26
Winds NbW
Squally & rain the most part of these 24 Hours
Wednesday 27
Winds SW to West
Strong gales & rain most part of the day no prospect of being able to beat down Channel if I sailed, on the contrary every chance of injuring the Assistant I therefore determined to wait untill the weather becomes moderate & settled.
[Page 7]
Rem at Spithead
July 1791
Thursday 28
Winds NW to West
Moderate breezes but the weather very unsettled. Employed washing & cleaning Ship.
Friday 29
Winds NbW to SW
Unsettled weather and generally blowing very strong I however unmoored & hove in to a half cable on the small bower
Saturday 30
Winds SW to WbS
Fresh gales with rain. Struck yds. & Top Gallant Mast by Signal.- AM recd. 191lbs Fresh Beef & 16 Hhds of Beer. Opened a cask of Pork N.1978 contents 53 Double Pieces
Sunday 31
Winds SWly
Fresh breezes & Cloudy Wr. Received orders to desist. Pressing. Washed & cleaned Ship.
August
Monday 1
Winds NbW
Fresh Winds & Squally Wr. with some rain
Tuesday 2
Winds [indecipherable]
Strong gales & cloudy Wr. Recd. 129lbs fresh beef Towards Noon fair Wr. Hove short. Ships draught of Water forward 151" aft 163"
[Page 8]
Remarks
To assist me in my Astronomical Observations I have Three Chronometers. Two of them are made by Earnshaw and one by Arnold.
N. 1503 by Earnshaw is and marked X on the Dial Plate I bought for 40 Guineas, and is the property of Government, not the Board of Longitude.
N. 1508 by Earnshaw of the same Value , Marked N. 2 on the Dial Plate, belongs to himself. I have taken it on trial
N. 160 is by Arnold & is my property, a present from my much esteemed Friend Sir Joseph Banks.
On the 1st July, 1791 I took them from Greenwich and their Error & Rate was as follows on that day at Noon-
XTK was +1343" or fast for Mean Time losing 8".61 Twenty Four Hours
N. 2 was +2,6 ditto 1,1 ditto
N. 160 was - 57,7 or slow for Mean Time ditto 1,0 ditto
These were the Rates and Error established from very regular going. But on the 18th July following, after my passage to Portsmouth, I carried the Watches to Mr. Bayley at the Royal Observatory, and by ten days regular going their Error & Rates on the 28th July were found as follows.-
XTK was 437"6 slow for Mean Time Green. losing 12"85 for 24 Hours
N.2 was 1:47,5 ditto 10,12 ditto
N. 160 was 2:32,9 ditto 3,4 ditto
Hence it is evident that in addition to what the Greenwich Rate gave, XTK lost in 27 days 058",56
N.2 ditto 1:20,40
N.160 ditto 1:8,20
The Portsmouth Error & Rate I sail with -
My Lunar Observations will be performed with three Sextants of Ramidens, two of them 10 Inch Radius & one of 12 Inches. Numbers 1-2-3
All series of Lunar Observations will be reduced up to one time by help of the Time Keeper & hence the longitude in the column of L & DK will be carried on by the log which may be considered as taking a New Departure.
[Page 9]
The Longitudes by the Time Keepers will be from the Rate found at the Place last sailed from.
The Variation of the compass will always be observed on the Binnacle, taking the shaddow each way (fore & back) so that by each compass two observations are performed, the mean of which is considered the truth. The Compasses are made by G. Haines and are numbered 1-2-3.
The log will be always marked in proportion of 50 feet to 30 seconds of time.-
The mean height of the Eye above the level of the sea is equal to 3.40" in Alt.
The longitude by each Time Keeper will be set down at Noon and the Mean of the three this last is to be considered near the truth.-
[Page 10]
Rem Wednesday. Aug 3rd 1791
In Channel
[PM]
1 Mod breezes and fair Wr. Weighed and Sailed The Assistant in Company.
3 At ½ past 2 passed over the Princesse Shoal within ½ cables length of white Buoy & had Ό less 5 fms
4 St. Catherines Point NW 1/2 N 2 leagues
6 Fresh gales down T.G.Yds. Dunnose NbW 5 leag.
8 The High land of St. Catherines NNE1/2E offshore 5 leagues.-
11 Fair Wr.
[AM]
4 The Needle Point. NEbN 7 or 8 leags.
6 Portland NbW 8 or 9 leags
9 Employed in cleaning and regulating necessary duties of the ship.-
10 At 20:14 Long by X T. Keeper 2° :5:3.6" West
12 Fair Wr. St. Albans Head NNE 3/4 E 16 Miles & Bill of Portland NbW3/4W 20 Miles several sail in sight Assistant in Company.
[Page 11]
Rem Thursday Aug 4th
In Channel
[PM]
1 Fair Wr. & Light Winds
5 Tkd. Alderny SbW 1/2 W about 5 leagues. Sounded 33 fms. Rough ground.-
11 Portland lights North Tkd.
[AM]
8 Several sail in sight
9 Scrubbed hammocks and examined all bedding
12 Ditto Assistant in Company
[Page 12]
Rem. Friday Aug 5th 1791
In Channel
[PM]
1 Light winds and fair Wrs.
4 tkd.
8 Saw the land about the Start NW 1/4 N Dis 8 leagues.-
10 Waiting for the Assistant
12 Sounded 33 fms. Rough ground
[AM]
4 Sounded 37 fms. Red stones & broken shells
6 Foggy wr.
9 Cleaned & aired Ship
12 Inclinable to fog. Spoke H.M.S. Winchelsea and sent letters by Her. Sounded 41 fms. sand & stones.
[Page 13]
Rem. Saturday Aug 6th 1791
In Channel
[PM]
1Light airs & foggy Wr.
3 Opened cask of Beef N. 1477 Conts. 66 double pieces.-
9 tkd.
[AM]
4 Calm & Foggy
6 Light airs
8 Sounded 41 fms. Sand & Shells
9 Employed in cleaning & regulating the necessary duties of the Ship
12 Foggy at times. Bolt NNE 7 leagues. Sounded 45 fms. Shelly Bottom.
[Page 14]
Rem. Sunday Aug 7th 1791
In Channel
[PM]
1 Calm and hazy Wrs.
2 Opened a Cask of Pork N1978 Conts. 13 Dble pieces. It was exceedingly salty.
4 Light airs. Start NE 1/2 E and the Bolt NEbN about 7 leagues
8 Tkd. Saw Maker Tower bearing NbE 1/4 E & the start EbN.
12 Light breezes & Hazy Wr.
[AM]
6 Foggy at times. Sounded 46 fms. Sand & Shells.
8 Mustered & saw every person clean and Read the Articles of Wars.-
10 Sounded 46 fms. Sand & small stones
12 Foggy at times. Lizard NNW 1/4 W 19 miles Assistant in Company
[Page 15]
Rem. Tuesday 9th Aug 1791
In Channel
[PM]
1 Light Winds and hazy Wrs. Set Royals
2 Having has no opportunity to write up my log for these few days I by mistake placed Tuesday here instead of Monday - see next page.-
7 Passed a Dutch Ship
8 Light pleasant breezes. All sails set
NB See next page
[AM]
9 Employed in cleaning and washing Ship.
12 Hazy Wr. under all sails. Assistant in Company
[Page 16]
Rem. Monday Aug 8th 1791
In Channel
[PM]
1 Light winds fair Wr & hazy
This days log misplaced
4 Wind freshening
5 The Lizard Lights NNE 1/2 E about 7 leag.
8 Mod. and cloudy Wr.
[AM]
8 Employed in washing & cleaning Ship fore & and aft & making Points & Gaskets.
12 Fair Wr. Assistant in Company. All sails set. Some sails seen.
[Page 17]
Rem Wednesday August 10th 1791
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes and thick Wr inclinable to fog.
3 Spoke a Swede from Alicant to Gotenburgh.
5 Thick mist
8 Light winds & thick fog
12 Thick mist & fog
[AM]
4 Calms & Wet foggy Wr.
8 Ditto. Employed in cleaning & drying Ship Making points & gaskets and fitting boats coverings
12 Light airs & cloudy wr
[Page 18]
Rem Thursday 11th August 1791
[PM ]
1 Light airs & calms.
4 Dark cloudy Wr. in the NE
8 In 1st. reefs
10 Light airs with small rain
[AM]
4 Cloudy Wr.
8 Employed in Washing & cleaning Ship. Shifting hammocks & examing all bedding.
12 Light airs & Cloudy. Assistant in Company.
Rem. Friday 12 August 1791
[PM]
1 Light airs & fair wr.
2 Tkd.
7 Very heavy clouds in the SW. In 2nd reef of the Top Sails
10 Small rain & Lightning. Tkd.
[AM]
4 Fresh gales & small rain
8 Cloudy wr. - Emp [indecipherable]. making points &
gaskets.
12 Fresh breezes & cloudy wr.- The Assistant in Company.
[Page 19]
Rem. Saturday 13th Aug. 1791
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & Cloudy Wr. with some squalls of rain
[AM]
5 One sail in sight
8 People employed mending their clothes & washing
12 Fair Wr. Assistant in Company.
Rem. Sunday 14th Augus. 1791
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & Fair wr. some small rain at night
[AM]
5 Three sail in sight
9 Began to serve krout to the people every day A Half pint to each man.
10 Mustered & saw every person clean dressed
12 At noon thick rainy Wr. Indiff. Observ.
[Page 20]
Rem. Monday 15th August.1791
[PM ]
1 Light air & small rain
2 Calm
7 Spoke a Portuguese Schooner from So. Tabes bound to Cork with Salt.
10 Light airs
12 Some rain
[AM]
2 Fresh breezes & rain
6 Cloudy & no rain. Two sail insight
8 Light winds & cloudy.
9 Employed in washing & cleaning Ship fore & aft.
11 Calm
12 Light air from the WNW. Assistant in Company.
[Page 21]
Rem. Tuesday 16th August 1791
[PM]
1 Light winds and fair wr.
4 Cloudy two sail insight
7 As an encouragement to the People to be alert in the execution of their duty, as well as, from considering it condusive to their health, I ordered them in future to be kept at three watches. The Master to keep no regular Watch but to be ready at all calls.
[AM]
1 Squally with lightning & rain.
4 Thick breezes & fair wr.
7 Squally with rain
8 After cleaning ship employed in making gaskets & sinnet for servicing the rigging
11 Fair Wr. dried all wet things
12 Fair Wr. with fresh wind. The Assistant in Company.-
[Page 22]
Rem. Wednesday 17th August 1791
[PM]
1 Mod and fair wr.
9 Light air & calms
[AM]
2 Mod. & cloudy
8 Fair wr.
9 Washed & cleaned Ship & employed variously in the necessary duties of the ship
12 Fair Wr. and pleasant Breeze The Assistant in Company.-
[Page 23]
Rem. Thursday 18th August 1791
[PM]
1 Fair Wr. & hazy
5 Three sail in sight
10 Showers of rain
[AM]
4 Fresh breezes and cloudy Wr.
6 Four sail insight, & small land bird flying about the ship
9 Employed as yesterday
12 Inclineable to rain. The Assistant in Company.-
[Page 24]
Rem. Friday Aug 19th 1791 At Sea
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes and thick rainy Wr.
4 Fresh gales & much rain
8 I ordered a fire to be kept in all night & an officer & one man of each watch to attend & dry wet cloaths.-
[AM]
3 Fresh breezes & cloudy with a very moist air.
8 Light winds at times. Got all wet things up to air & cleaned Ship
12 Fresh breezes with a moist air & hazy Wr. under single reefs Assistant in Company.
[Page 25]
Rem. Saturday Aug 20th At Sea
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & Hazy Wr.
4 Cloudy
5 Bore down to the Assistant
[AM]
5 Rain
7 Tkd
8 Cleaned and dried below & the remainder of the day set apart for the people to clean & mend their cloaths
12 Cloudy with much haze & spitting rain Assistant in Company
[Page 26]
Rem. Sunday Aug. 21st 1791
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & Cloudy Wr. with much haze.
4 Small rain at times
9 Light airs
[AM]
1 Inclineable to fog
4 Foggy Wr.
7 Washed & cleaned Ship & mustered the Ships Company all clean dressed.-
11 Fog cleared with a light breeze set all studding sails
12 Open cloudy Wr.
[Page 27]
Rem. Monday Aug. 22nd 1791
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes and fair Wr.
2 Mr. Wm. Day Mid, having on leave of absence behaved in a dishonourable manner by not joining the ship before we left Spithead. I have directed him to be run, . & this afternoon, a few cloaths he left on board, to be sold at the Mast.
9 Light breezes and fair Wr.
[AM]
8 Employed overhauling sail and store rooms, and cleaning ship
12 Mod. breezes & fair Wr. All studding sails set. Assistant in Company & can spare us her Royals. A few fish seen.
[Page 28]
Rem. Tuesday Aug. 23rd 1791
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & fair Wr.
8 Fresh breezes & fair Wr.
[AM]
5 Several sail insight steering to the westward
9 Washed & cleaned ship and exercised great guns & small arms
11 Some flying fish seen
12 Fresh breezes & fair Wr. The Assistant in Company but barely able to keep way with us - All studding sails set.
[Page 29]
Rem. Wednesday Aug. 24th 1791
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes and fair Wr.
3 Fresh gale & Hazy Wr.
8 In studding sails & shortened sail for the Assistant.
[AM]
8 Employed in cleaning and airing ship. Servicing the rigging & other necessary duties.
10 Flying fish seen, and a strange sail steering as we are
12 Fresh gale & very hazy Wr. The Assistant in Company. In these strong winds we have considerably the advantage in sailing. Under TS & T. Gall. sails.
[Page 30]
Rem. Thursday 25th August 1791
[PM]
1 Very hazy Wr. Flying fish & and small land birds seen.
4 Opened Cask Pork N 1118 Cont. 120 Double pieces.
8 Mod. & cloudy
12 Some small rain & calm
[AM]
8 Mod. and very hazy Wr.
10 Employed washing and cleaning Ship and mens cloaths
12 A very thick hazy, so that I imagine we could not discover land at two leagues distant. Assistant in Company & one sail in sight
[Page 31]
Rem. Friday 26th Aug. 1791
[PM]
1 Very Hazy Wr. All sails set
2 Opened Cask of Beef N1397 Conts. 66 Eight lb pieces
8 Spoke the Redbridge Whale Fisher from Southampton Jn Kelly Master sailed the 10th Ins. Himself unwell.
[AM]
8 Exceedingly hazy Wr. Sent the Surgeon on board The Redbridge to prescribe for the Master.
10 Employed in cleaning Ship & Cloaths fitting awnings
11 Exercised small arms and fired
12 Very hazy & Light winds royals & all sails set. Assistant in Company & The Redbridge pursuing their course to the southward. Their Long. at noon yesterday was 17°30 W
[Page 32]
Rem. Saturday Aug. 27th 1791 -Teneriffe
[PM]
1 Very hazy Wr. & Light breezes All sails set.
5 Exceedingly hazy, so that the sun was not to be seen but as through a fog.
8 Mod. Breezes and fine night
[AM]
8 Fair Wr. and very hazy
9 Saw the pic of Teneriffe bearing SW
11 Saw the East part of Teneriffe South. Hauled up to go round it.
12 Fine Wr. but very hazy so that the land can only be imperfectly seen. The Pic bore SW 3/4 W and the East End of the Isl. S 1/4 W abt. 6 leagues
[Page 33]
Remarks
When the land was first seen it appeared high in the clouds above our heads. It was only at times we could see the Pic, it was covered, as well as the all the country, with such a prodigious thick haze. This Remarkable Mountain bears from the St. Cruz Road WSW. The situation of a Ship with respect to that place is therefore known as soon as it can be seen.-
At noon by my latitude and the bearings of the East part of the Island I found I was on a meridian with St. Francis Church in St Cruz. Its longitude by my Time Keeper was consequently equal to the longitude as reduced to noon.
[Page 34]
Rem. Sunday Aug. 28th 1791 Teneriffe
[PM]
1 Fine Wr. but exceedingly hazy.
4 East End of Teneriffe. SWbW 1/2 W about 5 or 6 miles
5 Strong breezes. Hauled in for St. Cruz Road lost the wind as soon as we got within the Eastermost Head. -
7 Stood to sea again for the night. The town of St Cruz bore west abt. 5 miles & the East point of the Road NE about 2 miles
9 Fresh gales in 2nd Reefs
12 Tkd
[AM]
1 East part of Teneriffe NNW about 3 leags. At day dawn stood in for the Road.
6 out boats & towed
7 St. Franciss Church West 3 miles
8 At ½ past 9 came to in 35 fms with the sml. br. Moored open Hawse to Sea. B B in 47 fms. East part of the Road EbN St. Fran Church West 1 mile & Castle point SWbW The Peak WbS 1/2 S Assistant in Company.
12 Calm & very hot wr. Sent an Officer to wait on the Governor. -
Came on board the Inspector of the Port as usual to enquire what ships we were.-
Several Spanish Vessels lying at anchor.
[Page 35]
Remarks
The Strength of the Wind towards Evening induced me to try to gain anchorage, but I had no sooner got within the east point of the road, than the high land becalmed us, except at times when light flows of wind came off the land heated as if they had passed through a furnace of fire.
I spent the night under sail at sea, and in the morning steered again in for the Road. We were however attended with the same calms, but by help of our boats we towed to an anchor, and warped & Moored.
As usual a boat came on board with an Officer to enquire what ships we were, and the state of our health. I sent an Officer to wait on the Governor. He was absent at some of the other islands, and the Commandant neither received nor returned any salutes.
The Longitudes by Time Keepers are reduced up to St. Francis Church & agree nearly as Yesterday.
[Page 36]
Rem. in St. Cruz Road Teneriffe
Monday 29th August 1791
Generally calm with a burning heat, and at night light airs off the high land, heated as if they had passed through fire. Myself most materially felt the effect. I was seized with a violent fever.
Sent empty water casks on shore & directed the Contractor [indecipherable] Collogan & [indecipherable] to supply us with 930 galls of wine fresh beef and the water to be sent off in shore boats. Confined George Hog Ab for insolence and mutinous expressions.
Tuesday 30
Ditto Wr. Employed in the hold & Receiving on board water. Recd. 130 lbs Fresh beef. A strong fever on me and a most dreadful head ach. Several men ill. I directed the upmost exertion to be used to get the ship to sea.
Wednesday 31
Ditto Wr. Received on Board 83 lbs Fresh Beef, Water & 930 Galls. of wine for ships use.
Ships draught of water 15 1/4 feet forward abaft 16:3" wait now only for water, our casks being on shore. - My fever increasing & to carry on the necessary duties almost distract me. to carry them on I Therefore ordered Lieutenant Portlock out of the Assistant & Lieutenant Bond into her that the service might go on with a greater certainty of success in case of my death.
September 1791
Thursday 1st
Ditto Wr. This afternoon unmoored. Recd. all the water on board but it was 5AM before we could get under way, when we towed to sea. Myself lying dangerously Ill. At Noon the East part of the Road NEbE The Town W 1/2 S 3 leagues Assistant in Company.
The Therm. at Noon in the shade during our stay here was 87° & 891/4 °
[Page 37]
Remarks
The Ships being properly moored, I went on shore in the Evening and called on the Commandant. I gave the necessary orders, respecting the wines and water we were in want of, to the Agents of the Contractors Mess Collogan & Co and directed fresh beef to be supplied us in such quantities as could be got.
The changes since my last visiting this place in 1788 were, that the Contractors had lowered their contract price of wine from £ 10 per Pipe to £ 9.10 a pernicious alteration to the Seamen, as it lessens the quality of the wine more than the difference of price should effect it, which is ever the case, however it may be asserted the quality is the same it is a very miserable saving to Government.
The Contract also is extended to the supply of fresh beef and water, the latter very injudiciously connected with the other publik busyness, in the hands of a Spanish Officer (a Captain Mr Adam) with whom it was before; Ships were more expeditiously watered than they are at present. It was then 5/ per ton and now 4/9 pence, so that the paltry saving of three pence does away an exceedingly great inconvenience. Beef 6 pence p lb.
From a description of this place I had believed that greater advantages were derived in the Summer Season, than what could be found in the Winter, but if I except fruit, we did not find it so This is so trifling a consideration, as not to be compared with the dangerous tendency of a burning heat which the situation is subject to from the range of Mountainous Craggy Hills adjoining it. From this circumstance, with perhaps some over exertions, it was but a few hours before I was attacked with a severe Fever of a very putrid tendency. Under a gracious Providence by the committed attention of our Surgeon Mr. Harwood its malignancy
[Page 38]
in time was removed It was extremely doubtfull how long I might survive, & therefore while I had power to think and give the necessary information and advice to render the Voyage successfull; I directed Lieutenant Portlock to take command here, and my first Lieut. Mr. Bond I sent to command the Assistant.
Several men began to feel bad effects from the reflected heat of the Hills. the night air came scorching from the Hills heated as if it had passed through fire. Constant Calms contributed not a little to increase disease. The People of the town spoke of the heat as remarkable & uncommon for they seldom experienced it to so great a degree those who had it in their power removed to airy situations.
As I was informed, the Thermometer did not exceed in The Shade on board The Ship, 89 Degrees. it was however the most insupportable heat I ever experienced.
The Fruits in season were grapes, figs, oranges, pears, apples, peaches, nectarines, bannanas, water melons, & lemons the latter proved of great service to me made into saline draughts. pumpkins, potatoes, onions & capsicums were to be had in great perfection.
The best wine was sold at 15£ per Pipe of 120 Gallons. Barley @ Ύ per Bushel and Indian Corn at 5/-
Every exertion was used to get the ship to sea which however was not accomplished as soon as I wished, owing to a delay or incapacity in the Contractors not sending the [indecipherable] on board. With Him I left my publik and private letters, which with a few astronomical observations I nearly completed before I became incapable of writing.
[Page 39]
An Account of My Time Keepers with their Errors found at St Cruz, Teneriffe, taking the difference in time from Greenwich of St. Franciss Church in that Town to be 1:5:5 from hence a New Rate on the 28th of August at Noon is found as follows.
From four mornings observations by the Portsmouth Error and Rate bought on the result was on the
26th August XTK 16:06:20, No.2 16:47:40, No. 160 16:16:1
27th August XTK 16:06:33, No.2 16:49:49, No. 160 16:16:36
28th August A mean of the two taken this morning
29th August XTK 16:06:33, No.2 16:53:15, No. 160 16:16:40
30th August XTK 16:07:46, No.2 16:56:27, No. 160 16:17:54
/4 XTK 3:20, No.2 7:11, No. 160 3:14
Longitude of St. Francis Church is West of Green. 1:5:5, 1:5:4, 1:5:5
Error from Ports. Rate in 31 Day 1 - 0:37.6 lost , 0:2:22,2 gained, 0:2:2 gained
Slow for Mean Time at Green. by Ports.
rate [indecipherable] on 28th Aug. aft 11:15:9, 7:06, 4:17:6
Total Error from Mean Time at Greenwich 28th at Noon 11:53:5 slow, 4:38:4 slow, 4:15:4 slow
On the 28th July on leaving Portsmouth its Error from Mean Time Green. was 4:37:6 slow, 1:47:5 slow, 2:32:2 slow
Whole error in going for 31 days which divided 31/7:15:9, 2:50:9, 1:43:2
Gives a rate of going by this calculation called Teneriffe Rate, losing 0:14,07, 2:5:52, 0:3:32 per 24 hours
From the above it is evident, that Arnolds Chronometer has performed better than Earnshaws its error being only 33 seconds or one half mile nearly, in longitude, the Long. of St, Fra. Church being 16°:16:15" Nth of Green.
The foregoing calculation is made up on the 28th August at Noon & Thence the Error from mean time at Green. & rate is brought on.
From the mean of all the TKs four days observations the long. of St. Francis Church is 16:25:09 N see Book of Observ.
[Page 40]
Remk. Friday 2nd Sept 1791
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes and fair Wr. with much haze
2 Hove to for the Assistant
3 Made sail. The East part of the Island NbW and the South part WbS
6 The East part Teneriffe NbE1/2 E 8 leags. The South End W1/2N & the Pic NWbW.
[AM]
5 Light Winds. Set stud sails.
8 Up all chests & bags and washed below
12 Fair Wr. The Assistant in Compy. Myself lying dangerously ill.
[Page 41]
Remk Saturday 3rd Sept 1791
[PM]
1 Mod breezes and fair Wr.
3 In studding sails
4 saw many flying fish
8 Fresh breezes & Hazy Wr.
[AM]
9 Cleaned below Employed in making Matts, Spunyarn & other work
12 Very hazy Wr. Assistant in Company. Myself lying dangerously ill.
[Page 42]
Remk Sunday 4th Sept 1791
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes and fair Wr. but very hazy
4 Fresh gale
6 In 2nd Reefs
[AM]
6 Light Breezes and fair Wr. Saw many flying fish.
7 Out 2nd Reefs
10 Mustered The Ships Company as usual in Divisions.
12 Mod. & fair Wr. but very hazy. Assistant in Company. Myself very Ill
[Page 43]
Remk Monday 5th Sept 1791
[PM]
1 Mod. breezes & very hazy Wr.
9 Light airs & Calm & sometimes fresh breezes
12 Heavy dew
[AM]
8 Got up all chests & bags & Washed & cleaned below
12 Calm & fair Wr. but very great haze. Myself very ill. Assistant in Company
[Page 44]
Remk Tuesday 6th Sept 1791
[PM]
1 Calm & cloudy Wr. with light airs
8 Light breezes set Fr. T. M. Studding Sail
[AM]
7 Set T.G. Studding Sail
9 Cleaned below. Sailmakers fitting hoses to the awnings to save Water.
12 Mod. & fair Wr. but very hazy. Myself lying very ill. Assistant in Company
[Page 45]
Remk Wednesday 7th Sept 1791
[PM]
1 Mod. and fair Wr. with much haze.
6 Fresh breezes
10 In Studding Sails
[AM]
6 Set Studding Sails
8 Up chest & bags and washed below
12 Fair but very hazy Wr. The Assistant in Company Dangerous Symptoms somewhat removed from me, but continue very ill.
[Page 46]
Remk Thursday 8th Sept 1791
[PM]
1 Fair Wr. but very hazy
7 Sounded 143 fms. No ground
[AM]
2 Inclineable to calm
4 Set Studding Sails Caught a Pilot Fish
7 Employed in making Points and Gaskets
9 Cleaned below
12 Fresh breezes and fair Wr. but very hazy Many Flying Fish In Studding Sails. Assistant in Compy. Myself very ill
[Page 47]
Remk Friday 9th Sept 1791
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes and hazy Wr.
2 Squally In 2nd Reefs
4 Out Reefs Saw several whales
[AM]
2 Tkd. Near The Isle of Sal
6 Saw the Land SSW
8 The East part of the Isle of Sal SbE North Mountain S13 ½ W & the Western [indecipherable] in sight S17 ½ W. Off Shore 5 leags. Alts taken.
10 Cleaned below
12 Ditto. The North Mountain of the Isle of Sal S85°E . The Centre one S74°E & the West one S35°E. The [indecipherable] of the Isle N86°E to S34°E off shore 5 Miles a vessel at [drawing of anchor] in the Road S58°E about 6 Miles. - I still continue very Ill
[Page 48]
Remk Saturday 10th Sept 1791
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes and Squally In 3rd Reefs
3 Some rain
4 Mod. Out Reefs. Saw a sail in SW
6 The West part of Bonavista South. The SE part of the isld Sal NEbE and the isld San Nicholas WNW
8 Calm & cloudy Wr.
12 Fresh breezes & fair Wr.
[AM]
4 Hove to [indecipherable] to the mast
6 At day light make Sail. Bonavista E ½ N 6 or 7 leagues.
8 Light Breezes & very hazy. The Leton Reef SbE 6 or 7 Miles The S. end of Bonavista [indecipherable] N78°E St. studding sails
10 People Employed in washing & mending their cloaths.
12 Fair Wr. and very hazy Leton Reef N42°E 3 leagues. Assistant in Company Myself continuing very ill.
[Page 49]
Remk Sunday 11th Sept 1791
[PM]
1 Fair Wr. but very hazy opened a cask of Pork N1127 Conts. 120 Dble pieces.
4 The Extremes of the Isle of Mayo SSE to South 3 or 4 leagues.
6 Thunder & lightning. Saw a Meteor abt. the size of the Moon
8 Mod. & Cloudy Sounded 55 fms. Rocky Bottom Lost a Lead & Line
12 St. Iago WSW
[AM]
6 St. Iago NWbN
8 Mod. breezes & very hazy Wr.
10 At ½ past 10 Porta Praya NWbN
11 Anchored in Porta Praya Bay in 13 fms. The East point of the Road EbN ½ N. 1/3 of a Mile. West p [point] W ½ N & the Fort N34°W Assistant in Compy. Found here the Industry Brig a whaler from Nova Scotia & and an American schooner for Boston. -
[Page 50]
Remk Monday Sept 12 1791 St Iago
[PM]
1 Fair Wr. and very hazy. - Sent an officer on shore to wait on the Governor.
3 Steadied the Ship with the Stream Anchor. A hot wind from the land.
5 Officer returned with a few oranges & informed me we could get no other supplies untill the Morning. Place sickly.
8 Got the Stream Anchor up and hove short, and as soon as I sent my letters on board the Schooner that was bound to Boston, We began to get under sail.
12 After heaving a great strain by purchases on the Cable it parted in the Hawse. The Buoy rope gave way at the same time, and we drifted to sea without the Br. Anchor
[AM]
4 Fresh breezes & fair Wr.
9 Employed washing & cleaning ship
10 Served vinegar as usual on this day to the people.- ½ pint per man.
12 Fresh breezes & fair Wr. but very hazy & the wind hot. Assistant in Company.
[Page 51]
Remk
My illness seemed to increase on our anchoring at Port Praya a more miserable burnt up and inhospitable place I never beheld the coast X low, barren, and rocky, the interior parts mountainous without a single spot of verdure to be seen delight the eye, or invite a stranger to land . The wind came in heated blasts from the shore, and I saw so little advantage to be gained from my stay here, that I should have weighed instantly if The Surgeon had not recommended to me to send ashore to get [indecipherable] fruit.
This was done without delay, and a few oranges were procured wth a promise of other supplies in the morning. Lieutenant Tobin found the place to be very sickly and not he however with Mr e
Pearce the Lieut of Marines endeavoured to find somel ligible place for me [indecipherable] to give a change to my illness, but reports were so unfavourable that altho a Mr Marcellyne Comptroller General of the Factory, very kindly offered his house & every thing for my use, He considered it much better for me not to land, the fever which then raged violently, carrying off several persons in a day. This gave a determined me to change my plan, and I ordered the ship to be got to sea. The anchor having hooked a rock we were detained until the cable parted, & in this interval I got Mr. Harwood the Surgeon to write a few letters, which I had barely strength to dictate, to England, by a schooner that was bound to Boston.-
My fever was now nervous I was constantly afflicted with a dreadful head ach & burning heat in my skin, with a distracted brain on the least noise, so that to preserve my senses, it was necessary a profound silence should be kept in the ship, and I should be ungrateful not to acknowledge how wonderfully & kindly it was preserved.
We felt a purer air on leaving the land, of which I never yet saw a description, which was not better than it merited. I directed the course to be to the South as the wind would permit.
From a mean of the longitudes by Time Keepers reduced to Port Praya I find its longitude to be 23°:37:48" West Its lat. I take for granted to be as in the Requisite Tables 14°:54N
[Page 52]
Remk Tuesday 13th Sept 1791
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes and fair wr. but very hazy
7 Heavy dark clouds & thunder and lightning. In studding sails.
9 Calm with thunder, lightning; and heavy rain.
11 Light airs & cloudy
12 Fair wr.
[AM]
2 Set studding sails
8 Employed in cleaning & airing ship & making matts & points
10 Showers at times
12 Fair wr. & light airs. Assistant in Company. Myself continuing very ill.
[Page 53]
Remk Wednesday 14th September 1791
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes with showers of rain
2 In studding sails & in 3rd reefs
9 Passed through several riplings of currents
10 Variable wr. and lightning
[AM]
4 Steady breeze & fair wr.
6 Saw several butterflies and horse flies.
8 Calm and variable wr. with rain
9 Employed as yesterday
12 Ditto. Assistant in Company. Myself very ill.
[Page 54]
Remk Thursday 15th Sept 1791
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes and squally with rain
3 Set studding sails
4 Opened cask beef N1557 contents 66 double pieces.-
6 Lightning & unsettled wr. in studding sail
[AM]
1 Strong riplings
5 Dark cloudy wr.
8 Calm
9 Up all chests bags & cloaths and washed below
10 Saw butterflies & horse flies
12 Light breezes and fair wr. Assistant in Compy. Myself very ill, but rather better than hitherto.
[Page 55]
Remk Friday 16th Sept 1791
[PM]
1 Light breezes and fair wr. I now ordered [indecipherable] two stoves of brodies to fix below in the cockpits & fire made in them every day. The gally fire to be kept in all night
6 tkd.
8 Light airs and cloudy lightning
12 Heavy rain at times
[AM]
4 Lightning
8 Calm, thunder & lightning
9 Rain. People employed in washing all dirty cloathes.
12 Calm and the air remarkably cool for our situation. My health just as yesterday. Assistant in company. No observ.
[Page 56]
Remk Saturday 17th Sept 1791
[PM]
1 Calm & cloudy wr. with rain which enabled us to fill 3 pun. of water
3 Mod. And cloudy with a cool air
8 Rain at times. In 2nd reefs
12 Light winds & cloudy. Fires all night
[AM]
2 Set studding sails & out reefs
8 Squally & heavy rain caught 2 pun. of water
10 Cleaned and aired below with fires and dried all wet cloathes & as usual on this day people employed mending them
12 Light airs and fair wr.- My fever abated. air not so oppressive as might be expected. Assistant in company.
[Page 57]
Remk Sunday 18th Sept 1791
[PM]
1 Fair wr.
4 Cloudy.
6 Squally & heavy rain, thunder & lightning. In 1st Reefs
12 Fires all night to dry cloaths & air the ship
[AM]
2 Mod & cloudy wr.
7 Squally with heavy rain shorted sail occasionally.
8 Caught 5 [indecipherable] of water.
9 Dried below with fires & the people employed washing their cloaths
12 Rainly wr. no observation. Assistant in company. My fever and violent head ach still continue and I suffer very much. -
[Page 58]
Remk Monday 19th Sept, 1791
[PM]
1 Mod. Breezes and rainy Wrs. Caught 3 Pun 1 Hhd of water.
8 Lightning and fair wr.
10 Fires all night to dry cloaths & air the ship.-
12 Cloudy wr. and cool air
[AM]
4 Fine wr. set studding sails saw a sail in the NW.-
8 Got all chests and bags up & washed and cleaned ship in all parts lighted fires in the cockpits as usual People washing their cloaths - served vinegar to the ships company.
12 Cloudy wr. Assistant in Compy. My fever now abated, but the pain in my head is excessive.
[Page 59]
Remk Tuesday 20th Sept, 1791
[PM]
1 Calm and fair wr.
3 Light airs
6 Calm & cloudy
9 Light winds and dark cloudy wr.
10 Fires all night to air & dry ship
12 Lightning to the southward
[AM]
4 Cool air
6 Two sail standing to the SE
8 Squally with rain
10 Cleaned and dried, & aired ship with fires
11 Began to serve bore cole to the ships company with their beef and pudding. Issued 3 lbs
12Light breezes & cloudy. Assistant in Company. My health as yesterday.
[Page 60]
Remk Wednesday 21st Sept, 1791
[PM]
1 Light breezes and cloudy wr. Two sail in sight standing to the South ward.-
3 Squally with rain
7 In 1st reefs
12 Light airs & cloudy
[AM]
1 Calm
2 Squally & heavy rain. Fires all night to dry cloaths & air ship.-
4 Less squally and cloudy wr.
6 Calm
8 Light winds & cloudy wr. A high swell from the Southward.
10 Cleaned and aired below with fires
12 Dark cloudy wr. No Observation A continuance of the swell The two sail in sight Assistant in Compy. I still continue distracted with a nervous head ach, & frequent attacks of the fever.
[Page 61]
Remk Thursday 22nd September, 1791
[PM]
1 Squally with heavy rain & calms
2 Caught one Hhd of water.
6 Fresh breezes and rain in 1st reefs
8 Cloudy wr.
10 Squally & heavy rain in 2nd reefs
12 Fires all night to dry cloaths and air the ship
[AM]
4 Constant rain
7 cloudy wr. out 2nd reefs
8 Spoke a French Brig 30 days from Havre de Grace bound to Gabon on the Coast of Africa.-
10 Got all wet things on deck & dried thoroughly below with fires.-
12 Fresh breezes Assistant in Compy. The French Brig insight.- My health as yesterday.
[Page 62] [PM] [AM] [Page 63] [PM] [AM] [Page 64] [PM] [AM] [Page 65] [PM] [AM] [Page 66] [PM] [AM] [Page 67] [PM] [AM] [Page 68] [PM] [AM] [Page 69] [PM] [AM] [Page 70] [PM] [AM] [Page 71] [PM] [AM] [Page 72] [PM] [AM] [Page 73] [Page 74] [PM] [AM] [Page 75] [PM] [AM] [Page 76] [PM] [AM] [Page 77] [PM] [AM] [Page 78] [PM] [AM] [Page 79] [PM] [AM] [Page 80] [PM] [AM] [Page 81] [PM] [AM] [Page 82] [PM] [AM] [Page 83] [PM] [AM] [Page 84] [PM] [AM] [Page 85] [PM] [AM] [Page 86]
[PM] [AM] [Page 87] [PM] [AM] [Page 88] [PM] [AM] [Page 89] [AM] [Page 90] [PM] [AM] [Page 91] [PM] [AM] [Page 92] [PM] [AM] [Page 93] [PM] [AM] [Page 94] [PM] [AM] [Page 95] [PM] [AM] [Page 96] [PM] [AM] [Page 97] [PM] [AM] [Page 98] [PM] [AM] [Page 99] [PM] [AM] [Page 100] [PM] [AM] [Page 101] [PM] [AM] [Page 102] [PM] [AM] [Page 103] [AM] [Page 104] [PM] [AM] [Page 105] [PM] [AM] [Page 106] [PM] [AM] [Page 107] [PM] [AM] [Page 108] [PM] [AM] [Page 109] As soon as the ship was moored I landed. I found that Governor Van De Graaf was in Europe, and Mr. Rhenius the Lieut. Governor was invested with the command. I waited on him in the morning, and every thing was arranged both for our present and future supplies. I ordered the Ships Companies to be victualled with fresh mutton, greens & soft bread every day, and directed the Surgeon to send all such persons to Sick Quarters, who he thought would require the advantage of the land air. Perhaps no Ships Company ever required less attention in this particular than [Page 110] [Page 111] Tuesday 8th Wednesday 9 Thursday 10 Friday 11 Saturday 12 Sunday 13 Monday 14 Tuesday 15 Wednesday 16 [Page 112] Rem. In Table Bay Cape of Good Hope Nov 1791 Thursday 17th Friday 18th Saturday 19 Sunday 20 Monday 21 Tuesday 22 Wednesday 23 Thursday 24 Friday 25 Saturday 26 Sunday 27 [Page 113] Monday 28th Tuesday 29 Wednesday 30 1791 Dec Thursday 1 Friday 2 Saturday 3 Sunday 4 Monday 5 Tuesday 6 Wednesday 7 Thursday 8 Friday 9 Saturday 10 Sunday 11 [Page 114] Monday 12 Tuesday 13 Wednesday 14 Thursday 15 Friday 16 Saturday 17 Sunday 18 Monday 19 Tuesday 20 [Page 115] Wednesday 21 Thursday 22 From the Surgeons report of three men Jn Smith Tho Bailies & Jn. Jacobs I was under the necessity to leave them at Sick Quarters [Page 116] [Page 117] During my stay at this place nothing occurred of a material nature or scarcely worth relating. The Ships were got ready for Sea with every advantage to pursue my voyage and my disorder which was now a slow nervous fever and a distracted head ach, began to wear away. In all probability I might have perfectly re-established my health had I kept away from the Cape Town where the heat was too great for me, but as my being near the ship was necessary I received only a partial relief by a short excursion into the country to Stellingbosch, a pretty village about 25 miles to the eastward of the Cape Town so called from a Captain Stellin who first planted a tree there It is situated on a small plain, watered by a charming river and shaded by luxuriant Oaks, in the neighbourhood of wild and some inaccessible mountains The adjacent hills however afford elligible situations for farms, and produce corn, grapes, peaches, apricots, almonds and abundance of fine vegetables. The town consists of 40 or 50 houses and a church nearly built. The houses are so detached, that it occupies a The church had 1722 carved on the upper part of the doorway, but some of the houses are of a much more ancient dates. The air is salubrious I had the therm. From 61 to 70 degrees which is sea temperature. In the Cape Town we had it at 77 to 80 at Noon Day. Affluence and an abundance of the necessaries of life result from the labour of the industrious farmers, and of stature with hardy robust looks, be a proof of a fine climate and plenty, it is observable here among the Dutch. [Page 118] The deer is dry food and lean. parties go after these in open waggons with 8 horses and it is common before they return home, to run full 50 miles. They fire from the waggon or as circumstances make it necessary, but the most extraordinary thing is, with this waggon they drive the horses in hand without a leader at the utmost speed. This they frequently do in crossing a deer to get a shot at him, and in their full tilt will take the shortest turnings without accident. The hills are mostly covered with bush wood about the height of the horses but it never stops them in pursuit and very little in their rapidity. I had one days sport of this nature, but our exertions produced us but one ostrich, some partridges and moor game. we saw several deer, but could not get a shot at them. The height of the Pearl Hill is nothing when compared to those around it, and cannot be called a mountain. I rode up to the top in about a half or Ύ of an hour, and could sit my horse without alarm in coming down again. The Pearl Rock is the only one accessible, the one adjoining to it having its sides perpendicular.- I did not attempt to scramble round them but I do not think both rocks stand in a space exceeding Ύ if more than a half a mile in circuit, - they are nearly of a height and Dr Andersons comparing the Pearl to that of St. Pauls Church, I think is too great by the whole cupola.- These immense masses of granite are solid except a few fissures or rather flaws, which I believe do not penetrate to the center. a number of large blocks of the same stone lie about the hill, the po (a) now become a common term for the best wine. - [Page 119] The Tower of Babel is a small round hill lying near the road between Stellinbosch and the Pearl, and in sight of the latter. If I I took a sketch of the Pearl Rock which will give a just idea of its appearance, it lies EbN from Cape Town, NEbE from the Cape Promontory and about 12 miles NE of Stellinbosch. A neat Church is built in a proper situation for the Parish, and the Police I remained a week only at Stellinbosch, where I lived with a Mr. Borchards, a sensible worthy man, Minister of the Parish. My health was greatly improved, but a distracted head ach returned to me again on my arrival at the Cape Town My journey into the country gave me a better opportunity of purchasing wine of very superior quality for my People, than I could from the Wine Merchants at the Cape Town. [Page 120] ships and pay considerably to the Company for the Licence. From the last of January to the last of August, (the wine season) no Farmer is permitted to As I considered it necessary for the good of the Service, I sent Lieut. Portlock a copy of my general orders, inclosed with my directions Providence Cape of Good Hope Sir I have enclosed a copy of my general orders, which you will take care of and be guided by in case you are sep From Van Diemans land I shall proceed to Otaheite (by the south of New Zeland) where our rendezvous is to be at Matavai Bay on the north side of the island. Should any misfortune prevent my joining you there, you are to do the best for his Majestys Service, and as you think yourself capable to comply with the Orders from my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. I am Sir Lieut. Nath. Portlock [Page 121] Remk Friday Dec 23rd 1791 Towards Van [AM] [Page 122] Remk Saturday Dec 24th 1791 Diemans Land [PM] [AM] [Page 123] [PM] [AM] [Page 124] [PM] [AM] [Page 125] [PM] [AM] [Page 126] [PM] [AM] [Page 127] [PM] [AM] [Page 128] [PM] [AM] [Page 129] [PM] [AM] [Page 130] [PM]
[AM] [Page 131] [PM] [AM] [Page 132] [PM] [AM] [Page 133] [PM] [AM] [Page 134] [PM] [AM] [Page 135] [PM] [AM] [Page 136] [PM] [AM] [Page 137] [PM] [AM] [Page 138] [PM] [AM] [Page 139] Remk Tuesday 10th January 1792 - Towards Van [PM] [AM] [Page 140] [PM] [AM] [Page 141] [PM] [AM] [Page 142] [PM] [AM] [Page 143] [PM] [AM] [Page 144] [PM] [AM] [Page 145] [PM] [AM] [Page 146] [PM] [AM] [Page 147] [PM] [AM] [Page 148] The foggy & unfavorable weather of yesterday morning was the cause of my being farther to the Southward than I intended when I made the land. I was sure of our relative situation, and if the weather had not cleared up towards noon, I should have sailed on without waiting to take a look at it, I intended to have landed at this Island, but the foggy weather I knew would have caused more risk and delay than any benefit that could have been derived from it. I had a wish to ascertain if fresh water was on the island I have been assured by some Dutch Captains of Ships that there is We are not however informed of it by Mr. Mortimer in his publication of a Voyage with Captain Cox, altho it must be acknowledged a matter of publick concern, and of greater moment than all his other remarks put together. The Dutch accounts are these. The East part of St. Pauls bearing SWbyS (by true compass, for they never use the magnetic bearings, their compasses being daily rectified by a moveable centre card) there is good anchorage in 23 fms. on a bank of fine black sand. It is a good road and fine fresh water to be got There is also hot springs in which fish can be dressed as if boiled on the fire, and numbers of them are to be caught with hook & line. To my former sketch of this Island taken in 1788, I have joined the plan of the road, as it was in my Friend Mr. Alex Dalrymples power to represent it, from Mr. Mortimers information of anchor bearings I have done this to give an idea of the anchoring place and the extent of the Island, which in circuit is about 12 miles. It has some remarkable high rocks on the NE side, one of which I called the Sugar Loaf.
From the road may be seen, the Island of Amsterdam, bearing NEbyE by compass distant about 18 leagues. When the Mercury was at anchor, (Mr. Mortimer informed Mr Dalrymple, that) the East part of the island bore SWbyS by compass, at a computed distance of two miles, that the Westermost extremity bore NW ½ W 2 mls the Sugar Loaf Rock WNW and the entrance into the Lagoon WbyN 1 Ό mile. The most that could be made from the information [Continued on Page 150] [Page 149] [PM] [AM] [Page 150] Just mentioned is at best a rule of thumb busyness to improve it I have taken the supposed distance of 2 miles which Mr. Mortimer says the East point was from the Ship, and with the bearings of of the Sugar Loaf which I saw upon with it at N10°W (by compass) I I have determined the situation of that rock. The line of the coast is N15°W, which I have taken in the same manner to determine the North point of the Island The West side I observed [indecipherable] on in the direction of N10°E, which with the extent of the island from East to West 4 Ύ miles & my other observations in 1788 is the whole of my data for the form of this island. In coming from the Westward in my last voyage the North part of the lsl. Appeared as a Foreland, & the Southernmost a high hill which at a certain distance looks as if it was detached from the main body, but as one advances towards it, it proves to be a high head land. The shore is steep & the Island may be seen in common weather 12 or 14 leagues I saw it 10 Leagues. In the Bounty I made the Longitude of the East end of the Island 77° 17.34" East by my T. Keeper in my passage to Adventure Bay, but there I found the Time Keeper had erred 46 47" in long. by which it gave that place too far to the West. A Winters passage prevented my having a more determinate way to find the long. of St. Pauls, than by allowing the error to be equal in the number of days in performing the passage, which was 51 and this gave 55 seconds of long. which the Time Keeper gave too little every 24 hours from At this time I am unfortunate in not having many Lunar observations, but from the sets I have had I believe there is no reason to [Page 151] [PM] [AM] [Page 152] doubt [Page 153] [PM] [AM] [Page 154] [PM] [AM] [Page 155] [PM] [AM] [Page 156] [PM] [AM] [Page 157] [PM] [AM] [Page 158] [PM] [AM] [Page 159] [PM] [AM] [Page 160] [PM] [AM] [Page 161] [PM] [AM] [Page 162] [PM] [AM] [Page 163] [PM] [AM] [Page 164] [PM] [AM] [Page 165] [PM] [AM] [Page 166] [PM] [AM] [Page 167] [PM] [AM] [Page 168] [PM] [AM] [Page 169] [PM] [AM] [Page 170] [PM] [AM] [Page 171] [PM] [AM] [Page 172] At sun rise in the morning as I expected, we saw the coast of Van Diemans Land. I made it to the westward of the SW Cape, where I passed within 4 leagues of the shore. The weather was thick and hazy, I could nevertheless observe that there was scarce any wood about the coast, which altho very hilly & in some parts mountainous appeared formed of immense masses of rocks, of which the SW Cape seemed to be peculiarly formed as Fluted Cape, the sides of it being fluted as that Cape is described to be. As we came near to the islands within the Mewstone, the country began to look better, & I saw several large smokes on the main. I steered without the Mewstone, Our passage to this place has been attended with a great share of good health The wind has only been variable between the North & South by the West, always fair, & attended with no fogs or thick weather of any consequence. My track has been direct as possible, & untill I come abreast of Lions Land or SW pt. of N. Holland, I was not so far to the south as 39°, 48S, or so far south as St. Pauls before I made it. The greatest variation that I obs. was 30 °:09W, in 37°:35S & 37°:59E it continued to decrease untill in the lat. 43°:45S long. 136°:14E, when it was 0°:14E. In 43°:28S 132°:55E. it was 3°"27 West, hence by proportion I find that in 43°:44S, 136°:01E is the point of no variation; but as the T.Ks error on arrival in Adventure Bay was found to be 21 miles of long. too far to the East, the true long. becomes 135°:43E in the lat 43°:44S for the point of no variation abt. 170 leags. West of Van Diemans Land. In the Bounty, August 1788 I found the point of no variation in lat. 44°:09S & long. 131°:49E which is 3°:54 farther to the West The variations in Adventure Bay show no material change, it is nevertheless clear from a general view of the two tracks, that the point of no variation is shifted to the Eastward, & of course the Westerly variation increasing & Easterly decreasing in this sea. (a) The mean of the Time Keepers by help of my map make the long. of Pengwin Isl. 147°:54E whereas I consider its true long 147°:33:29"E; but the mean of X T. K. and No. 160 the best watches give 147°:35East. (a) Should this be the case, the greatest Easterly variation can be nearly ascertained that has affected the magnetic needle in this place, for in 1777 when I was here with Captain Cook it was found to be 5°:53E [Page 173] [PM] [AM] 4 Sounded 34 fms. [Page 174] The very variable and bafling winds with a strong outset, prevented my getting into the Bay until day break. As soon as we anchored I went on shore to determine where we should water I found the place near the West End of the beach where I wooded A saw pit I made in my last voyage, near to the beach, I found partly filled up, but the cross logs remained the same, & likewise a post I had stuck in the ground & made a stand of, was in the same position. - I saw no signs of any ships having been there; the trees I had marked remained the same as I left them in 1788; - and a strip of red baise which I found on the ground The fish we caught with the Seine were barely worth the trouble of hauling it - with hooks & lines, some very good Red Cod were caught I saw many Wild Ducks in the lake some Black Swans their wings tipd white, and a few Pelicans or birds of that size. Vide* This brought [indecipherable] account up to midnight & the following is [Page 175] 1792 Mr. Whiles & Mr Smith the Botanists were employed about the hills, & I planted in the [indecipherable] fresh water at the East end of the beach a pot of water cresses on a tree a few yards from it, I had cut [indecipherable] a memorandum. Saturday 11 At 7 OClock the Wooders & Waterers were sent on shore and the Pinnace to Pengwin Island to cut grass rec. on board one launch load of wood, and two turn of water. From the SW winds much surf ran on the shore which makes watering very difficult. The Assistant having a small boat I had it carried into the lake to enable me to examine its extent The principal arm of it is about 20 Yrds wide in some parts & has 3,4,8,6 & 13 feet water in it, - from this branch It abounds with bream, of which we caught [Page 176] Seven in a few minutes with hook and line baited with mussels, the largest fish weighed about a pound. We saw many wild ducks, I sent the Botanists to day to plant Hauled the Seine and caught a few fish, but we benefit most be our hooks & lines, with which Sunday 12th Mod. Southerly breezes with calms & cloudy weather and a sharp air. - Wooders, Waterers Recd four large cutter loads of wood, and 3 launch loads of water. About sun set, after our days work I took my rod & line to the lake where in an hour I caught 21 bream the largest about 1 ½ lb, & the smallest about half a pound. - I fished with a float & it was very good amusement. At night the Botantist returned having been towards Cape Frederick Henry - on the low land they saw some deserted Wigwams, but no recent marks of the Natives. They got some valuable specimens & suppose the narrowest part to C. F. Henry Bay was about 300 yds. - In hauling the Seine to day, we caught two very large fine oysters. The Barometer stood at 29 ins, 79 [Page 177] Untill the latter part of this day we had fresh Northerly & NE winds with a moist air and dark cloudy wr. but towards midnight it cleared with the wind to the NW. We found much difficulty in getting our water off, the surf running high, & we had some trouble also with the wood, so that our dispatch in the necessary duties of the ship was slower than I wished it to be . Recd. 3 turns of water per launch and four large cutter loads of wood. Our people continued to catch Rock Cod alongside, and the anglers in the lake caught many fine bream, which may be considered among the richest fish we are acquainted with some weighed 2 ½ lbs. We saw no signs of Natives in the neighbourhood of this place, but on the NW side of Frederick Henry Bay we saw a fire. Several seals have been seen, & we have caught several sharks. A few ducks Since we first arrived, we landed our goats on Pengwin Island to feed. On my going there today to take some bearings, they followed me like dogs & made much bleating when I left them. - From the heights of the island , Frederick Henry Bay can be seen distinctly & an island in it bore N30°W. Cape Frederick Henry N15°E 3 or 4 miles, & the outer of Marias Isles N67°E. The land produceth a fine kind of wire grass, (which our sheep & goats like very much), and a few poor trees. Its extent is not a half mile in circuit. At low water there is a dry pass to it, from the main which we call Grass Point. [Page 178] Mod. and cloudy weather with squalls & showers of rain and apparently bad weather at sea The wind NW towards the west to SWbW At day light we found too much surf on at Resolution River to water there, I therefore sent Lieut. Portlock to examine some water at East Cove, & from his opinion of it and a sample he brought off, I thought it proper to order the Waterers on shore there, the landing being convenient, but the water not so pure. The Wood Cutters remained at their first station, but even with them it was troublesome to get the wood to the boat. As this is the only place we can get a supply of wood, I found it necessary to clear the hold to enable us to I saw some dark coloured lizards, and one of our young gentlemen shot a kind of Cockatoo the plumage was brown tinged with black & olive, - on each side of the head a yellow spot. Six of the long tail feathers were yellow speckled with black, about 3 inches in the middle, so that when they flew it formed a circular yellow mark. The bird measured from the tip to tip of the wing 3 feet 8 inches & from the bill to the end of the tail 2 feet - Wednesday 15th Very squally wr. with constant squalls of rain with the wind West & WSW our wood & water got on board with much difficulty The surf less & landing tolerable in East Cove, I have therefore ordered the Wooders to remove there with the Waterers. Caught but 40lbs of fish with the Seine Rec. one launch load of wood, & one load of water. Gave hot breakfasts of thick gruel & portable soup to the people as usual. We had about 150 yds to roll our casks to get water. [Page 179] Very squally weather wind Westerly. Sent the Wood Cutters to East Cove, where the surf is not troublesome, & the boats are easier loaded than at any other part of the Bay. At the back of this cove is a fine vally, but there is no other fresh water than what runs from the hills in rainy weather, when in some places it It was a peculiar satisfaction to me, to find one of the apple trees I planted here in 1788 only one remained, and this altho alive & Some of the gentlemen in their walks to day saw several Partridges, they were not so large or brown as ours in England; but in other respects the same. My time has been taken up to day in endeavouring to make some observations to establish the rates of my Time Keepers, but it has been so cloudy that I could do very little towards it. We continue to catch a few cod with hook and line, but one unsuccessful with the Seine which is perhaps owing to the great surf setting into the bay. I sent the boat a dredging as I had been fortunate in catching some few oysters with the Seine, Recd 2 launch loads of wood & 2 Cutter loads of wood in the course of this day [Page 180] Very cloudy wr. and squally wind West & WNW al Employed wooding & watering with the utmost dispatch. Rec. on board 2 launch loads of wood we have taken off no water because I found these strong winds had effected it by causing an influx of the sea Our [Page 181] We saw smokes nearer to us about the lowland of Frederick Henry, than has been yet observed I have every day intended to go round into the Bay of Frederick Henry in the Assistant, but the weather is so bad, that I cannot do it with propriety, & my time Among the wood cut in East Cove is a kind called Snake Wood it is remarkable in its growth by the grain or rather fibres growing in a wave like [hand drawing of wave] It is used in fineering & was accidently discovered, by one of our people having heard of it at home, & desired to look after it. I could only find that one tree of it was cutt down about 2 feet of the trunk Our carpenter knocked down an animal to day called, by the Seaman, a Gally wasp. It is [Page 182] Lieut. Guthrie in an excursion to day killed an animal of a very odd form. It was 17 inches long, and the same size round the shoulders, to which rather a small flat head is connected so close, that it can scarcely be said to have a neck It has no mouth like any other animal, but a kind of duck bill 2 inches long which opens at the extremity where it will not admit above the size of a small pistol ball the tongue is very small. It has four legs which carry the belly about an inch or two from the ground & on each fore foot it has three very strong claws an inch long & two about a quarter of an inch. On the hind feet, it has the same number, but they Near our fires, we had little birds like our robins, (except the want of a red breast) that visited us as domestically as in England. - Several crows have been shot, parroquets of two kinds, large & small, & a heron the same as described at Port Jackson a variety of small birds. (a) Some snow lay on the Table land during the whole day so unfavourable is the Season. [Page 183] All this day we had a strong gale at SW & WSW with very heavy squalls of hail so that every person felt a considerable degree of cold. We were busily employed in taking on board the last of our wood, spars & plank, to be ready for sea, and the wind moderated at night so as to permit us to get the Lower Yards and Top Gall Masts up. As I saw no evident signs of the Natives being near us, I allowed two or three people on shore on leave every day This afternoon they met with about two and twenty men & women at Gully Head, near the lowland of Frederick Henry. There was so much surprise on both sides, mixed with fear, that their interview was very short, and the whole information I got, was, there were six women; one had a child at her back, and all of them had a piece of skin for covering over the lower part of the belly The men seventeen in number were all naked, & had thick bushy beards; but [Page 184] The weather today turned moderate with winds from the Eastward & calms, and having got everything from the shore we were ready for sea & unmoored ship. I made an excursion in the morning after the Natives, who I found had absented themselves from our neighbourhood, - after the forenoon search Since the wind has abated we have again began to catch fine Red Cod with hook & line, and as I could not go to sea & leave the poor unhappy man, I sent the Seine to be hauled in the evening. Caught a sufficiency of Spanish Mackrel to supply both ships abundantly, besides a few Gurnets, Bream & other small fish, among which were some smelts like those in England. I directed two parties to be ready to set off in the morning, each under the command of a Lieutenant, to search for the poor man who was absent. Ships draught of water forward 15:6, aft 16:3 = :9 inch by the stern [Page 185] The parties who were sent particularly after the man, whose name was Bennet, missed him; but very fortunately Mr. Pearce, the Lieut. of Marines, and the As the last service I could offer to this country I sent on shore by Lieut Bond a cock and two hens to be let loose on the high grounds within Penqwin Island. Two goats that were sent on the island to graze, could not be found & were left behind, but unfortunately neither of them was a male, nor have we one on board either of the ships, so that no benefit can be derived from the animals. In the evening many fish caught with hook & line. [Page 186] As I was anxious to know something of the entrance into Frederick Henry Bay, I steered round the head to the North as far up as three leagues, carrying soundings from 29 to 24 fms., about a mile or one & a half from the shore of Fred Henry, which lies in the direction of NNW ½ W forms several heads & a steep shore. At Ύ past 9 I hauled to the wind, which was freshening at south & my situation with respect to the land was as follows. C. Frederick Henry bore S14°W dist 5 miles, the southermost part of Marias Isles in sight, a remarkable high Cape of Fluted Pillars of Rock, S81°E. A bay on Frederick Henry shore N87°W 2 miles A sloping point lying under the tableland where is the only entrance into Fred. Henry Bay (if any) N47°W dist. 5 miles The extremes of some islands opposite to it from N26°W to N11°E, 3 & 4 leagues distant, between which & a fair cape bearing N25°E is a fine deep bay, which from what I have been able to observe, is the case with the sound we are in, filled up with many islands that afford the best of shelter for shiping. The country looked in all parts pleasant Here Civil account ends & Log account begins at Noon, 12 hours earlier. [Page 187] My third visit to this country has been attended with scarcely any new occurrence. I had hopes my endeavours to serve it in my last voyage might have been productive of some good; but of all the articles I planted, only one apple tree remains. It has not produced any fruit or shows any luxuriancy of growth; it however remains alive and in a healthy state, and perhaps being now habitual [note in margin * habituated] to the soil, may, if it escapes the accidents I have never seen any reason to hope that the hogs left here by Captain Cook, or any breed of them were alive, I am however sanguine in my expectations that the Cock & two hens I have now left will breed & During my stay here the weather has been so unsettled & boisterous as any of our unseasonable summer or autumn months in England. We have had both hail & snow, and the latter lay [Page 188] on the Table Mountain for some days. The thermometer varied from 54 to 61 degrees, and at one time it was 53 degrees. In January 1777 when I was here in the Resolution, one month earlier in the summer, we had the thermometer from 63 to 75 degrees, and in August 1788 equal to our Feb; when I was here in the Bounty, I had it from 41° to 54 degrees, it was once 60° and once 40 deg. Hence we have a comparative difference of heat & cold, in summer & winter, and I state it according to these observations, as 40 degrees the lowest in winter to 75° the highest in summer, I however believe the extremes may exceed these limits. It has been observed that both birds and fish have had a very immediate tendency to putrefaction, and have produced maggots in a very short space of time It is occasioned by large flies that propagate this filth in the course of an hour or two I have known that fish cleaned for broiling and laid on the rocks, which on being taken up in an hour was full of these vermin. The unseasonableness of this [Page 189] two blow holes, whereas the Spermaceti has but one. It appears from, the accounts of the Whale Fishers that the Whales are remarkably The Wigwams have large heaps of muscle shells, & some oysters & crawfish in them; but it is remarkable we never saw any fish bones. The muscles are easily got in great abundance The few oysters we got with the Seine & dredge were very large, & fine; but the superior shell fish is the Ear, called so from the shell taking that form, it adheres to the rocks like a limpet - when properly stewed it is delicious eating. some fine scallops are likewise in the bay, and in the Bay of Frederick Henry is a large oyster bank which our Officers met with in an excursion to that place. I shall give an account of it in Lieut. Bonds own words, at the end of my remarks. It appears to me from an interview [Page 190] suspect that the great fires which the Natives make about the coast is the cause of keeping away many annimals the natural inhabitants of this country. As I am convinced that the neighbouring Isles are inhabited, I see no reason to doubt It has been It is remarkable that these people cautiously avoid having any intercourse with us. The only thing they coverted when our party saw them was a [indecipherable] hat Mr Cox has remarked the same thing in his interview among the Marias Isles. Trinkets, such as rings, that were given to them, they returned; some pieces of biscuit however they recd and eat. Before they were observed, our party came to a wigwam were they We found not a single natural production fit for food except a little wild parsley about Pengwin Isl. & Grass Point. [Page 191] The hills and country in general The country is not destitute of fresh water, altho no rivers have yet been found. Wherever Europeans have landed upon it they have met with brooks, and seen some small waterfalls. Adventure Bay is furnished with several runs, - Resolution Brook is a fine plentifull [indecipherable] stream that runs over a stony bottom, from springs three four & five miles in the country It is from five to twelve feet wide in general, has trout in it & I believe never dries.- At the east end of the beach or Water Cress valley, is a small brook that has its source near Nelson Hill. At 300 yds from the water side it has a pretty run & may be made a good watering place. The Bountys watering place is the most convenient; but the goodness of the water depends on rain and moderate weather, as does the water in the marsh at the back of the beach, where I have sometimes found it very good. In all these places we found trout. The valleys towards the seaside are below the level, & by this means the salt water has access through the sand, & renders the fresh water brackish when the tide is high, or when strong southerly winds prevail: It is necessary therefore to guard against this by filling further back where the sea cannot effect it. At Resolution Brook this pre [Page 192] caution is not necessary. I have said in the account of any former voyage that the trees shed their bark every year, and I said it principally on the authority of Mr. Nelson the Gardener Lieut. Bond and others of our gentlemen walked along the west shore as far as the south part of Frederick Henry Bay From the view he had of it, he gave me the following account. The Bay of Frederick Henry is sep Our From Gully Head to Resolution River the country has a black sandy soil From Resolution River to the Bountys watering place it is like black peat From thence to the Water Cress Valley it is blackish and very sandy. From Water Cress Valley to East Cove it is much the same but rather stiffer, higher up the hills it is a red sandy soil. In East Cove & Water Cress Valley the soil is rich & fertile. Towards Pengwin Isl. it becomes rather sandy. At the upper parts of Nelson Hill blackish & very fertile soil, - at the foot of it rather looser, and here is a spot of fine arable ground and a beautiful situation. Pengwin Isl. has a black soil free from sand. - [Page 193] Remk on the Time Keepers By equal altitudes Feb. 16th the longitude of Pengwin Island in Adventure Bay was found to be by Cloudy wr. prevented me having any lunar observations to determine the longitude of this place, I have therefore taken what I made it by [indecipherable] many good ones in 1788 147°:33:29"E Hence their errors in time were found to be as follow XTK slow for mean Allowing the long. of Pengwin Isl in time to be 9:50:14 their errors on the Cape rate will be Observations for determining the rates & errors of the Time Keepers I was prevented by cloudy wr. from having any more observations to determine the Time keepers rates. [Page 194]
From daily comparisons of the Time Keepers, No.2 is found to go on a medium with XTK the superior watch, & It is high water at full & change at 49 mins past 6 in the morning & rises about 2:8 Southerly winds rise the tide a foot or two higher if they are of any continuance. For further remarks see my last voyage in the Bounty. [Page 195] [PM] [AM] [Page 196] We were obliged to carry much sail to clear the land, when At day dawn Lieut. Portlock reported to me that the yard he had carried away was one that was made out of spar when at the Cape of Good Hope, in order to give his vessel more sail, as it was squarer than the one he was fitted out with, - he had increased the Squareness of his Fore Sails in proportion, and was therefore in want of no yard, but required assistance to refit his sails, which was set about with every exertion and effect. [Page 197] [PM] [AM] [Page 198] We lost but a little time in being put back again into the bay, for the winds were trifling and contrary To make up for this, the Assistant got completely refitted, and we employed ourselves to the best advantage. [Page 199] [PM] [AM] [Page 200] Remk Sunday 26th Feb 1792 Towards New Zeland [PM] [AM] [note in margin: The Cape or Port Egmont Hen, is not a certain sign of being near land altho they are generally in the neighbourhood of it. I saw this one, light often in the water & catch several small fish or blubber.] [Page 201] [PM] [AM] [Page 202] [PM] [AM] [Page 203] [PM] [AM] [Page 204] [PM] [AM] [Page 205] Remk Friday March 2nd 1792 Passing New Zeland [AM] [Page 206] Remk Saturday 3 March 1792 Passing New Zeland [PM] [AM] [Page 207] Remk Sunday 4th March 1792 Passing New Zeland [PM] [AM] [Page 208] Remk Monday 5th March 1792 To Bountys Isles [PM] [AM] [Page 209] Remk Tuesday 6th March 1792 Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 210] Remk Wednesday 7th March 1792 Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 211] Remk Thursday 8th March 1792 Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 212] Remk Friday 9th March 1792 Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 213] Remk Saturday 10th March 1792 Towards Otaheite [AM] [Page 214] Remk Sunday 11th March 1792 Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 215] Remk Monday 12th March 1792 Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 216] Remk Tuesday 13th March 1792 Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 217] Remk Wednesday 14th March 1792 Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 218] Remk Thursday 15th March 1792 Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 219] Remk Friday 16th March 1792 Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 220] Remk Saturday 17th March 1792 Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 221] Remk Sunday 18th March 1792 Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 222] Remk Monday 19th March 1792 Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 223] Remk Tuesday 20th March 1792 Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 224] Remk Wednesday 21st March 1792 Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 225] Remk Thursday 22nd March 1792 Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 226] Remk Friday 23rd March 1792. Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 227] Remk Saturday 24th March 1792. Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 228] Remk Sunday 25th March 1792. Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 229] Remk Monday 26th March 1792. Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 230] Remk Tuesday 27th March 1792. Towards Otaheite [PM]
[AM] [Page 231] Remk Wednesday 28th March 1792. Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 232] Remk Thursday 29th March 1792. Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 233] Remk Friday 30th March 1792. Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 234] Remk Saturday 31st March 1792. Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 235] Remk Sunday 1st April 1792. Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 236] Remk Monday 2nd April 1792. Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 237] Remk Tuesday 3rd April 1792. Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM]
[Page 238] Remk Wednesday 4th April 1792. Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 239] Remk Thursday April 5th 1792. Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 240] Remk.- The weather was so very hazy, and the land so low, that is was a mere chance we had not passed it without knowing that we were I do not believe the Island to be inhabited Its nearest situation to any known land is N68degE dist 59 miles from Osnaburge Island discovered by Captain Carteret, which is in Lat 22°:00S & 218°:26E I am doubtful The latitude of the North part of the land is in
21°:38S [Page 241] Remk Friday April 6th 1792. Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 242] Remk Saturday 7th April 1792. Towards Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 243] Remk Sunday 8th April 1792 Maitea Isl [PM] [AM] [Page 244] Remk [Page 245] Remk Monday 9th April 1792 Al Otaheite [PM] [AM] [Page 246] I steered to the North of the Island and hauled round under the lee of it, where I brought too about 2 miles distant from the shore. Four small cannoes came off to us with whom I traded for a few cocoa nutts, two baked breadfruit & a small bunch of plantains. The men were all but one, of the lowest class, or Towtows. Some of them recollected The night came on boisterous, and the morning so much so that I was obliged to lye by for sometime, for I was not able to see the land distinctly - towards noon the weather became fair, and we anchored in Matavai Bay without accident. I was immediately vissited by my old acquaintances, and to my surprise by a whale boat of a ship that was lost, called the Matilda, Matthew Weatherhead Master. I found that Captain Vancover had been here Captain Edwards in the Pandora, and heard many various accounts respecting them. Every person I saw gave me joy of my safe return to Olaheite. I had not many cannoes off to the Ships, for the People of Oparre and Matavai were at war, on account of the Matavai People refusing to share the things of which they had robbed the Seamen of the Matilda. I heard this news with some concern, as it militated much against my plans of immediately beginning to get the breadfruit. The People who came off to me were Iddeeah the Queen, (her husband was from home) Tootaha an old Priest, and Orreepyah & Whydooah the Brothers of Tynah. Here Log Account ends & Civil begins, this page taking in 36 hours [Page 247] Very fine weather Wind ENE but I believe more Easterly at sea. Therm 80 to 80 ½ degrees. Ships draught of water forward 14 3" Abaft 16 3" People employed drying & unbending small sails and clearing ship of everything that could be stolen by the Natives. Got on board a launch load of water. My Therm. Is kept in the coolest part of the Ship. I had only a few Oparre ca I received a letter today, directed to any of His Majestys Ships that might touch here, from Matthew Weatherhead, Commander of a Ship called the Matilda. It relates that in the Lat. of 22° :00S and Long. 139°:45W from London, the ship was lost on a shoal He begs my assistance as follows I beg your assistance in rectifying the wrongs I have rec. on this island by one Tabyroo, after the misfortume of losing Matilda. We were 6 days in the boat, landed at Matavai and put ourselves under the protection of the above mentioned man. I had with me one box containing the most of my papers 407 dollars 17 guineas & one half, between 3 & 4 lbs of English Silver a bag with a few necessary cloaths After being in his House 6 days, I was turned out without anything to shift myself with only one shirt. [Page 248] P.S. On the 25th Feb. the Matilda in a dark night ran aground upon a shoal which was of some extent perhaps about 8 or 10 miles they cut away their masts lowered their boats down, and having put a few necessaries into them, they left the Ship about 10 OClock in the morning The Ships Company consisted of 28 men and boys; but a convict having secreted himself at Port Jackson, the number at this time were 29. The divided themselves into four boats, and without examining minutely into their situation, they left the shoal without knowing if any island or land was near it, for I cannot discover that any person saw anything that was green. They proceeded fortunately to Maitea, and after a nights rest & kind treatment, they sailed for Otaheite on the 5th March on the next night, by bad weather, the boats were separated, two arrived at Matavai, one at Oaitepeah & the other round by Attahooroo. The People of Oaitepeah were too hostile to induce the boat to remain [Page 249] So much the opinion of the Captain that they should not all remain at one place, that some resided at Matavai, some at Oparre & some at Attahooroo. They were all dispossessed of their cloaths & Articles they had with them, but the great prize fell to the hands of the Matavai People, under the command of Poeeno the Chief, and one Tabyroo a person of some power. The circumstances no sooner became known, than Otoo demanded the Articles taken at Matavai, consisting of money & Arms in behalf (as he asserts) of his friends the English; but no restitution was made, - Some deliberation immediately took place, the result of which was, that on the 19 March war was proclaimed, & the Oparre People came to Notwithstanding our countrymen were robbed of their cloaths, they were treated afterwards with much kindness & attention, it would however have been better if the whole had gone to Oparre under the protection of Otoo, and as there were three at this time absent with the Matavians, the first step I stook was to order them to join their Ship mates. [Page 250] home He had one passenger more than he expected, seaman secreted himself on board & sailed with them as it is supposed, for he has not been heard of since. While the Jenny remained here the Second Mate, - Campbell, undertook to go away in one of the whale boats for Port Jackson It was fitted up in a miserable manner with mat sails; and himself with two men Phillip Christall & John Bagster sailed the same day. The number of men now remaining on the Island are 21, including the convict who has absented himself Among them is the Chief Mate, Surgeon, Boatswain & Carpenter. The whole of them I directed to stay at Oparre where they are well taken care of. I find that about 2 months [Note in margin: Some say 5 months] after I left Otaheite in the Bounty Christain returned with her to the very great astonishment of the Natives, whose enquiries were numerous and affectionate, doubting by his return, Everything was now given to him that he asked, & in eight or ten days he left Matavai with In one month after Capt. Cox left this place, Christian arrived again, and having landed 16 of his associates It may readily be believed that I [Page 251] satisfaction and pleasure Charles Churchill Master at Arms, Matthew Thompson ab, Sumner ab (a) George Stewart, Tho. McIntosh, Rich. Skinner had each a daughter by the women they lived with and Captain Vancover and Lieut. Broughton arrived here after the Pandora, and stayed about five weeks. After he sailed [Note in margin: (a) 12th January, 1792, see 16th April] a disease afflicted the Natives that killed many of them, so that they speak of the Ships with a degree of horror & declare it was caught on board.- The Anchor which Christian left, the Natives got and delivered it to captain Edwards. [Page 252] Remk. In Matavai Bay Wednesday April 11th 1792 Very fine wr. with a regular trade at ESE without, but at EbN here. Early in the morning I went to Oparre to see Otoo. He was overjoyed to see me. When I was here in the Bounty he was rather an ill looking boy, but he is now grown a fine youth. None of the ceremony that took place between us that did then, he was very familiar, & always kept hold of my hand, altho carried on a man shoulder, where he rode as on a horse and carried a switch with which he beat back the croud. He received a very handsome present of cloaths & iron tools with great thankfulness, and pressed me hard to bring the Ships down to Oparre. He had only a few body guards with him, the whole district being employed against Matavai. After a short stay, for I was seized with a very violent nervous head ach, which is always more or less upon me I took my leave Three fine hogs were put into the boat, & I might have had her loaded with fruit. Among my old friends who used to be with me here I saw Terrano the wife of Teppahoo a great Chief of Tettahah This old woman with a her Sister clung about me and literally thanked God for saving me after I had lost the Bounty, for they were informed of the whole transaction. Teppahoo she told me was dead from the cancer that was in the roof of his mouth when I was here before. see page 210 I found also that Mowworoah the Uncle of Tynah, was dead & lying in state on a Toopapow in Oparre, [Note in margin: (a) This man died 1 month after C. Vancover sailed Feb 1792] and that Terreenahoroah, eldest daughter of Tynah & Ideeah, had died of a decline soon after I left them. Odidee they told me was gone with Captain [Page 253] Edwards in the Pandora to Ulietea, and the rest of the Society Islands. In our return to the Ship I saw a multitude of Men on the low land of Matavai all armed, preparing for an attack on the Matavians [Page 254] It is of the utmost concern to me, but I dare not yet send any party on shore. I have not yet seen any chief of consequence but Orreepyah & his brother, and Tynah still remains at Morea. When the Matilda. C. Weatherhead passed Matavai, some of the Natives swam off to him with notes that some of the Discoverys People had given them to recommend them as Tyos, these notes were dated the (a) 12th January, 1792 [Note in margin: (a) See 16th April] which I suspect was the time they sailed. The Our friends here have benefited very little fromn the intercourse they have had with Europeans since I left them. Our countrymen must have taken great pains to have taught them such viled blackguard expressions as are in the mouth of every Otaheitean. [Page 255] Remk in Matavai Bay Thursday April 12th 1792 Fine weather and regular Trade Wind EbN in the Bay and ESE out Themo 80 to 83 degrees. Carpenters employed caulking the larboard side. Loosed sails & unreeved the running ropes. A few canoes trading with hogs & sufficient supplies. This morning word was brought me that the Matarvians were driven to the mountains, and that war would cease as soon as Trynah came from Morea, and they assured me he was sent for. Orreepyah appears evry desirous that I should In the afternoon an Indian was caught thieving on board the Assistant he was sent on board Several inferior chiefs were on board to day, they were remarkably glad to see me, and thanked their God for his protecting me from the hands of Christian their manner of expressing themselves was litterally to that effect. [Page 256] Remk in Matavai Bay. Friday 13th April 1793 [1792] Carpenters employed in caulking the larboard side - Not many canoes, we have nevertheless as much as we can possible make use of hogs, breadfruit, plantains, tarro, cocoa nutts & [indecipherable] - Though the whole day I have some of the Natives welcomeing me here, and it is great fatigue to me to show In the morning I ordered the sml. Br. Anchor to be shifted nearer the shore in 12 fms. when moored again Point Venus bore N22°E distant 2/3 mile, Point of the Reef N13°W, & the West head of Tarrah S29°W. - aired sails. In the afternoon Iddeeah & her friends teezed me to send my boat for Tynah, & said if I did not send for him he would not come. I saw this was a plan of her own, & insisted on her sending for him herself if she meant to be on a friendly footing with me The way I did it gave her some alarm she ordered a boat to be ready and sailed, promising me to be back in two days if the weather would permit. A great inveteracy is still held against the Matavians, particularly Poeeno the Chief. As it was necessary for me to do it away as soon as possible. I told Oreepyah I would wait no longer for Tynahs arrival from Morea, and in the morning I should go on shore to prepare a place for my plants, in which it was his interest to assist me, but that he might do as he liked, for I would have no more fighting. This brought him about, & he engaged to assist me to morrow, as soon as I had determined on the part where I intended to [Page 257] Remk Saturday 14th April 1792 In Matavai Bay Moderate breezes and fine wr. Wind at NEbE Therm from 83 to 85 degrees. Carpenters employed caulking the larboard side. Washed and cleaned ship below. We have plentifull supplies of hogs and fruit and every man has more than he can consume. At day dawn I sent away Mr Norris Surgeon of the Matilda with a message from me to Poeeno & Tabyroo for mr Weatherheads money & some other articles that were in their possession particularly Musquets. After a troublesome walk of six miles he found Poeeno & Tabyroo at Wapyhanoo They received him in a very friendly manner and promised that the money should be returned as soon as it could be got from Teturoah where they had sent it for security. They refused to give up the Musquets, unless by [Page 258] According to promise I landed with Oreepyah & Tootapah and fixed on a rising ground for my post, about Ό of a mile from Point Venus along the beach. Matavai River runs close to the back of it, which makes the situation vastly desirable and advantageous for the plants. By Oreepyahs assistance I got the lines marked out, and by night I got a fence and shade two thirds completed about 30 yds long and 6 wide to receive my plants. I also got necessary posts for houses, & every thing ready for erecting them [Page 259] Remk Sunday 15th April 1792 Matavai Bay A steady breeze all day from the Westward & cloudy wr. Therm 82° to 84°. Washed & cleaned Ship mustered the people and saw every person clean dressed Performed Divine Service. Plentiful supplies of every thing. I thought proper to put the People to short allowance of liquor, only to serve it three times a week while we have such abundance of fine cocoa nutts. This enables me to assist the Weatherheads people, & In the course of this day I got my post so I have now got my Gardeners tolerably acquainted with the manner of proceeding, and some intelligent men to go with them who assisted me last voyage. A number of natives I have [Page 260] Remk Monday 16th April 1792 Matavai Bay Mod and cloudy wr., which towards the middle of the day became squally & at night small rain. Wind abt. EbS and the thermo 82 to 83 1/2 degrees. In the morning I sent the second Lieut. of the Ship Not many can The favourable wind yesterday brought me over my friend Tynah He came on board about two oclock in a covered can [Page 261] the men who came on shore, on their questioning them, that you was lost; from that time we did not profess any friendship to him, and Christian knew it so well that he only remained a few hours, and went away in such a hurry that he left a second anchor behind him. One of the anchors we got & gave Poeeno & the Matavai People seem to be objects of great dislike to Tynah & his Father, they requested I would undertake the War with them to destroy those people, as well as the Inhabitants of Paparrah & Oaitepeeah who had a number of muskets they knew it was Tynah brought me a large hog & some cloth, breadfruit, plantains & cocoa nutts His wife Whyareddee also put a few pieces of cloth about me, but, there was very little of the ancient custom of the Otaheitean all that was laid aside it is rather a difficulty to get them to speak their own language without mixing a jargon of English, and they are so generally altered, that I believe no European in future will ever know what their ancient customs of receiving starngers were It surprised me to find Tynah [Page 262] another wife, while Iddeeah was living, it is however the case she is a woman of Iddeeahs stature & is her younger sister but has a much handsomer countenance, - She was the wife of Whyeeahtuah the Chief of Tiarraboo who is dead. They all slept on board together, and the women were on the best of terms with each other. Tynah brought with him Capatin Cooks picture, and on the back of it, underneath my memorandum is as follows. His Britannick Majestys Ship Pandora sailed from Matavai Bay Otaheite 9th May 1791. His Britannick Majestys Ship Discovery and Armed Tender Chatham sailed from Matavai Bay 24th January 1792. I should have been happy to have received a letter from Captain Edwards to have known how he had proceeded. It would have been delivered to me as safe as the picture, and I might have assisted in finishing the object of his voyage. Tynah observing the man in irons The presents I made to Tynah and his friends gave them much pleasure, particularly a suit of crimson coloured cloth with gold lace about the cape & sleeves, and printed callico night gowns to the women, to these I added every thing they wished for, in iron or trinkets. [Page 263] Remk Tuesday 17th April 1792 Matavai Bay All the morning light variable winds easterly. In the evening the wind varied to the NW & West, & kept steady all night with cloudy wr. inclineable to rain Therm 81° to 83 ½ ° [Note in margin: Pots Plants 32] Employed caulking drying sails and salting pork, the Natives supplying us with more hogs than we can keep alive. This was the first day of my beginning to collect my plants We had 32 in the pots at sun set. I had a visit today from the young King. He was brought to the post on a mans shoulders in his usual way, but would not come off to the Ship -after receiving a few presents he returned to Oparre. Tynah, his wives, Oreepyah & Tootaha after they had all eaten voraciously went to Oparre in the Cutter, nothing pleases them more than this mark of attention which I always show Before I was aware of it the Botanists had potted some of the plants without putting any pieces of shells or any thing at the bottom of the pot to prevent the water laying and souring. I therefore ordered them to be [Page 264] Remk Wednesday 18th April 1792 Matavai Bay [Note in margin: Pots Plants 32+83, Total 115] Westerly winds all the morning and dark cloudy wr. at nightcalms and small rain favourable to my plants. Therm from 81° to 77 degrees. Employed caulking the starboard bend and in restowing the main hold. About 30 cannoes were about the Ship to day which I consider a very small number when compared to the multitude of people I have been accustomed to. We have very suffiecient supplies of hogs, fruit & tarro. I have only seen 3 she goats which I bought for my sea store. Otoo sent me a handsome present of hogs and fruit, and gave others to the Officiers at the Post. This day we completed 83 pots with plants The weather is very favourable, & A fine child about 12 months old was brought to me to day. It is a daughter of George Stewart, Midshipman of the Bounty (a). It was a very pretty creature, but had been exposed to the sun as to be very little fairer than an Otaheitean. Tynah with his friends still remain at Oparre debating on their capability to carry on the war. From the most authentick accounts I can get, I find the Otaheiteans have got from different ships, musquets etc. as follows belonging to Oparre - Musquets 8 Pistols 5 [Page 265] Remk Thursday 19th April 1792 In Matavai Bay During the fore noon the wind was steady from the ESE, but the remaining part variable with calms, and the whole day so cloudy as made the air cool & pleasant. The therm from 76 to 77 degress. Employed in caulking the starboard bends airing sails salting pork and cleaning ship. This day we filled 149 pots with plants, the weather very favourable for the work. - We have a great abundance of fruit & roots but, no hogs today. It surprised me to find that both Iddeeah and Tynah were called Pomorre, [Note in margin Pomorre what] & on enquiring into the cause of it, I find it owing to Among a number of plants which I have brought here from England the Cape of Good Hope & New Holland, consisting of oranges, pines, guavas, pomegranates, quinces, figs, vines firs, Metrocedera and aloes, the natives only have a desire for the three last - the firs & Metrocedera [Page 266] because I assured them they would grow to very large trees, and where fit for building ships; and the aloes on account of its being a very fine flower. No value is set upon any of our garden productions & it is really taking trouble to no purpose to bring them any thing that required care to get it to perfection. A fine Shaddock tree, I saw yesterday, very nearly destroyed by fire, and the fruit of it they told me was good for nothing. Some trees in the country as I have remarked in my last voyage bore fruit, and a few very fine ones were brought to show me in the evening from the same place this is just the time for them to be ripe, or in the course of the month or next. (a) Pomorre is compounded from Po night and Morre the name of the disease. - [Page 267] Remk. Friday 20th April 1792 Matavai Bay. Calms with light Easterly breezes therm from 78 to 81 degrees Employed in caulking the starboard bends salting hogs unbending sails washing ship, and clearing hawse. Moderate supplies of hogs, breadfruit, cocoa nutts & plantains but as much as we are in need of. I had another visit from the young King & made some presents to him. I could It is about the same time that Tynah will perform the ceremony of Oammo or Oammoah to all his children, & become free to feed himself I have given an account of this ceremony in my last voyage Page 271 which I cannot improve. Whatever men are taken in their wars, are killed, - they share the same fate with those who fall in the Battle", & remain on the field. their eyes are taken out one is presented to their God Oro, & the others to the [Page 268] Erreerahigh, and the man is then put into a grave & buried. In presenting the eye to the King, it is put on a leaf, and the person who presents it on being near him, calls aloud Ham,ma,mah My - the King then gapes wide and the ceremony ends. He does not even touch the eye, much less Ham,ma,mah signifies to gape, we may turn the phrase therefore to threaten to devour or gape to me [Page 269] Remk. Saturday 21st April 1792. In Matavai Bay Strong sea breezes in the day at ESE and much swell on the Dolphin Bank. During the night light winds off the land from the SSE. Therm 80 to 81 degs. Number of plants potted 196 I mean so many potts were filled, many of which had two plants in them. [Page 270] Remk. Sunday 22nd Apil, 1792 In Matavai Moderate sea breezes at ESE and land winds at SSE in the night. Calm in the morning and hot untill the sea breezes sets in about 10 Oclock. Therm from 79 to 81 degrees. Completed 166 pots with plants. [Note in margin Pots yesterday 571 + 166 total 737] Cleaned ship and mustered the Ships Company Performed Divine Service gave leave to six men at a time to go onshore. I find the Venereal Disease is still common, one of our men at the post having complained of being infected. Very few Natives about us, but we have very sufficient supplies. Some shaddocks were sent to me. They were very large & of a fine sort, but not sufficiently ripe they were brought about 4 miles out of the country near Peahroah, where Mr. Nelson planted three trees, that are now loaded with fruit the Natives do not value them. Mr Portlock picked up a lump of lava to day near the Post which had every appearance
[Page 271] Remk. Monday 23rd April 1792 In Matavai Bay During the day from 10 Oclock, fresh sea breezes at EbS the night & morning light land winds & calms. Therm from 79 to 84 degrees. Wind ENE at noon but at sea about East. Employed caulking the starboard side. salting pork and trading with the Natives. Plentiful I took a walk to day over the greatest part of our neighbourhood, which I found altered very much for the worse, Otoo again paid us a visit at the Post where a Heiva was performed by one woman & four men in their common interlude Stile. In the cool of the evening our Marines exercised, and the Natives were exceedingly delighted, particularly with the Serjeant who played so mant tricks with his musket, that they said he was mad. Tynah with his wives, Father & Brothers dine with me every day A cannoe with a party came over from Moreah to see the Ship; - these were some Friends of Whyerreddee for whom Tynah had recourse to my lockers to satisfy them with presents. Tynah is a perfect
[Page 272] Fool to this woman, she rules him as she pleases, while Iddeeah quietly submits and is contented with a moderate share of influence. Since I sailed in the Bounty, Tynah has had another child (a boy called Oroho) by Iddeeah by Whyerredee he has none, - His children now, are, Otoo Erreerahigh, Terreetapanooai his Brother, Tahanydooah his Sister (see 28th May), Oroho his Brother Huheine Moyere, the wife of Oreepyah, arrived to day from the district of Itteeah where she had been at the burial of [indecipherable] her Father and Brother to my surprise I found she would touch no victuals, but what was out to her mouth by the hands of another person. [Note in margin Cause of being fed] I have accounted for this in my last voyage in one instance, and I now find from Tynah that the loss of relations is another cause of It is extraordinary to see how fond our Friends here are of liquor, they speak of brandy & strong spirits with delight, and are mad to get as much as will render them stupid. I have done all in my power to prevent them with me they are orderly & contented with their wine, but whenever they can get it about the Ship they are sure to get drunk. We completed 80 pots to day with plants. Wydooah humorously calls the rum, Avah Tyo, or friendly draught. He says altho he has lost the use of his legs by drinking it, he had always the use of his tongue; where at the Otaheite Avah took away the use of both. -
[Page 273] Remk. Tuesday 24th April In Matavai Bay. Fine wr. sea breezes at EbS & land breezes at SSE & SE. Therm. 81 to 83 1/2 degs. - [Note in margin pots yesterday 817 + 95 Total 912] Employed in caulking the starboard side got the spare anchor up out of the main hold and put the guardians anchor down in its place got the coals up in the wake of the hatchway, and got on board two load of ballast about 4 tons. It is a difficult thing to be got here, as the stones lye at the wash of the beach were there is, at most times, a very great surf. - Plentiful This day we potted 95 plants. The Erreerahigh, Otoo, changed his place of residence to day from Oparre to this place, this is a pleasant circumstance as I have now all the Chief People about us. Otow lives on Point Venus - Tynah & Otoo about 500 yds within the Point, and Oreepyah on the beach towards Tarrah. In this manner they prevent a number of worthless fellow lurking about the Post and committing thefts. The quantity of old clothes that has been left among these people is considerable any article of dress they set the highest value on they wear such rags and dirty things as are truly disgusting, and deform themselves in
[Page 274] Remk. Wednesday 25th April 1792 In Matavai Bay Fair wr. during the morning, but the latter part of the day cloudy with rain in the mountains, and a sprinkling below wind E & SE Therm. 81 to 83 ½ degrees Employed in the hold & caulking Ship plentifull supplies. Recd. one load of ballast about 2 tons. [Note in margin yesterday 912 = 71 Total 983] Our friends here have some weighty deliberations on their hands which I cannot yet account for The cause of Otoo having removed to Matavai is [indecipherable] some busyness respecting the late war some concessions are made by the Matavai Party The Temple of Oro their God, which is always kept near the residence of the Erreerahigh was brought up in a cannoe with him, it is to remain here untill to morrow when after [indecipherable] a meeting of the Parties Otoo returns with it to Oparre, but all the other Chiefs remain here. To morrow morning I am to have a sight of it and to hear prayers performed by Tootaha the Priest This man is a great orator among them & highly respected for his abilities as well as for being a Chief of Consequence he is always been the Prime Minister of Tynah, is their Oracle, and Historian of this country, and possesses a great fund of humour he is now called Hammene,manne but was spoken of in my last voyage by the name of Tootaha He is remarkable for speaking English and could he write, is capable of forming a vocabulary of near a thousand English words. I have mentioned the Death of Teppahoo the Chief of Tettaha and now find he is succeeded by Teppahoo (the youngest Brother of Tynah) his nephew by marriage with Terronnoo, the Sister of Oberreroah who is (a) We filled 71 Pots to day and the whole are doing exceedingly well as far as we can judge. (a) Teppahoos
[Page 275] Remk. Thursday 26th April 1792. In Matavai Bay Fair wr. with land sea breezes. Therm. From 81 to 83 ½ degrees. At day light this morning I walked with Tynah & Hammennemanne (for so I shall now call him) to see the Great Temple Tebbootaboo,ataiah [indecipherable] I found it on a double cannoe, about a mile from Point Venus to the Eastward, near the small island called Modoo,ow, in the harbour called Taipippee It was hauled up on the beach on the prow of the cannoe was a baked hog, the head of a dog & a towel with a piece of sugar cane. Being seated in the cannoe, Hammennemanne began a prayer in favour of King George, Myself & Mr. Portlock, who was with me, the principal purport of which was that we might never want or be overcome by our Ennemies, - his chaunting was accompanied by two drums, one was beat by a Native, & the other by one of my People who was with me, so that it cannot by supposed there was much harmony between them
[Page 276] with, but assured me I should see it to morrow at Oparre, where it was to be sent in the course of this day, to be ready at a ceremony at which I was to be present This senseless lump and cannoe which my drawing will give a just idea Otoo slept under a small shed near the Morai (a). He has most of the things with him that we had given to him, and a St Georges Ensign which was left here by Captain Cook this Ensign is always carried with the Morai & it was displayed in sailing past the ships to Oparre with a small red flag. Peace is established
[Page 277] about their sincerity I however dare not involve myself in any trouble with these People to get either one part of his property or the other, altho I will do my utmost to regain it by every fair means I am capable of. The Habour of Taipippee is but small & nothing about it to induce any person to anchor a ship there. A shirk 7 feet long was caught alongside the Ship many porpoises were in the Bay. The Native name for the high forked mountain which I have called Otoos Horns ids Orohee,nah, or Oroo,enah.
[Page 278] Remk Friday 27th April, 1792 In Matavai Bay Mod. sea breezes at East & EbyN - land winds at night from the SE. Therm. From 81 to 83 deg. Employed in caulking the larboard side. Fitting up a place on the Quarter Deck for extra plants. In the Hold and other necessary duties. Sufficient supplies of cocoa nutts, plantains, tarro, breadfruit and hogs. [Note in margin Pots yesterday 1082 + tubs 4, total 1086. Plantains 12 - Ratahs 6 yesterday - Vees 1, total 2] Tynah and his friends got very much intoxicated with their ava this morning, On my enquiring the cause of the Marro Oorah being removed from Attahooroo where it was kept in Captain Cooks time, & when I was here in my last voyage; they told me that after Christian had left part of his crews The places fitting
[Page 279] Remk. Saturday 28th April 1792. In Matavai Bay Fine wr. with land & sea breezes. Therm from 81 to 83 ½ degrees. [Note in margin - Pots yesterday 1086. Plantains 12, Ratahs 25, Mattees 6, Vees 16, Ettows 1] Cleaned & washed Ship the remainder of the day the People employed in mending their cloathes & washing. Recd one load of stone ballast per launch about 2 ½ tons. sufficient supplies of fruit, but no hogs. At sunrise I set out in my boat with Tynah & Orreepyah for Oparre where Hammenne,manne was waiting our arrival at the Morai at the entrance of the harbour. He was at Prayers at the Temple, the Etuah laying before him, wrapt up in red cloth as I had seen it at Tepippee to the right of it lay the body of a dead man wrapt up in the platted branch of a cocoa nutt tree & tied to a pole by which
[Page 280] and playing his tricks during the whole time of the devotion. After the first prayer upon our arrival, the bundle which they called the Etuah was untied and exposed The Marro,oorah or feathered belt was also taken out of another bundle, & spread out , so I had a view of every sacred thing that belonged to them. Hammennemanne now began another prayer, it was very long, but had many repetitions in it, so that the retentiveness of the Mans memory is not so extraordinary as Strangers imagine, We have sacrificed a man we have presented his eye unto thee as a token of thy power, and unto our King, because it is thy will that he reigneth over us, and we know After this Prayer, a hog which had been strangled was scorched, his hair taken off & the entrails taken out and burnt except the liver. After smeering the hog over with its blood, and broiling the liver, the whole was brought to the Morai (or Temple) the place of Prayer. This appeared to me to be particularly the offering of my friend Tynah, and Hammennemanne pronounced another Prayer, which was in favour of King George, myself and all the People who were with me in the Ships the drums were beat at intervals, and the hog being laid on the Evatah & the Corps buried by the side of the Morai; the Marro was made up in one bundle & the Eatuah in the other, carefully covered over with a
[Page 281] piece of English red cloth, (as I have observed before) and the ceremony ended. There were not many people present, and among those who were, I saw no grave or serious attention The Priest himself the moment he had done prayers began to joke and create fun in an obscene manner. Tynah requested I would not return immediately to the Ship, as he had ordered a turtle to be killed for us it was about 20lb weight and baked as they do their hogs, - while it was dressing we went to the (a) Morai on the point of the harbour, and there I observed that two bodies had recently been deposited under the coral rocks, of men who had been sacrificed in the beginning of the war. - In war time these sacrifices are common. On being defeated, they sacrifice a man The turtle being nearly ready, our repast was to be taken on the ground which was covered with fresh leaves for that purpose under the shade of a fine tree. When we were all seated, Tynah desired the Priest to perform
[Page 282] a ceremony called Errow,wow,ah. This ceremony is a token of friendship and intercourse with those whom The Red Bundle their Etuah which they called Oro was nothing more than a number of yellow & red feathers and four rolls about eighteen inches long platted over with Cocoa nutt fibres to which they gave the name of some inferior Deities. Captain Cook calls this lump of superstition the Ark.
[Page 283] The Marro Oorah, or feathered belt, which is put on the Erree,ra,high, when the sacrifice is first made and the eye is presented, is about 12 feet long and about 14 inches wide one half is made of yellow feathers stitched on cloth, and the other half is some red English buntin without an feathers. The ends are wrought with feathers in divisions which give a change to the form of it, and are the parts which hang as ornaents when worn by the King. The yellow feathers are diversified by narrow stripes of red feathers, it is however not remarkably elegant or neatly made. We took our repast very heartily, and experienced
[Page 284] and beat his brains out, - thus these two unfortunate wretches I was particular in my questions to know why Before the present (a) Otows time, it appears that Attahooroo was the principal residence of the Erreerahigh. In my last voyage I have given an account of the Principal people as far back as Otows father, which I find perfect, and from this and the information these people give me it appears that the power of Tootahah, who was a Great Chief and Otows uncle, was the cause of the Marro and Tebbootaboo,ataiah remaining at Attahooroo; but as he had been a long time dead, and those people had injured them, they went to war and conquered the whole district. [Note in margin (a) The father of Tynah] The moon was now nine days old I asked the name of the month and Tootaha told me as he had done in 1788 that it was (Ahoonoonu) April About noon we all returned to the Ship.
[Page 285] Remk. Sunday 29th April 1792 Matavai Bay Fair wr. with land and sea breezes. The therm. From 81 to 83 ½ degrees. Plentifull supplies broached a punch. of spruce beer for the People. Monday 30th April 1792 Ditto wr. Employed in the Hold Carpenters caulking the larboard side and making extra places for the plants on the Quarter Deck. Cooper repairing casks & making tubs Recd 3 ½ tons of stone ballast. Our post is little incommoded by the Natives. In the evening they collect to see the Marines go through their manouvies, but at sun down they retire and all becomes quiet. - The plants are doing well I have this day 1194 pots filled and 4 tubs filled 1090 pots & 4 tubs have breadfruit plants in them. I have forgot on the 28th to give a description of the Great Evatah, or Evatarow as it is called, on which the hogs were lying. This famous alter is formed by three row of stout posts about 8 feet high, thirty six [Note in Margin Pots Breadfruit 1090, Vees 25, Rattahs 25, Ayyahs 25, Orayahs 12, Poeahs 9, Mattees 6, Ettows 2, Total 1194. Tubs 4]
[Page 286] in number arranged regularly, so that the whole space of ground it takes up, may be nearly forty feet by ten. From the top of one post to the other poles are secured to form a platform which is covered with small branches and leaves to receive the offerings. Round the sides the Evatah is prettily ornament with a curtain of cocoa nutt leaves. Thursday May 1st 1792 Fine wr. with land & sea breezes at SSE & East. Therm from 81 to 84 degrees Employed caulking the larboard side making places for the plants on the Quarter Deck. Hands in the Hold. Cooper repairing casks Recd 3 ½ tons ballast per launch. We continue to have plentifull supplies, & have salted 13 hogheads of fine pork. A few families are now getting to Matavai, and we have a great number of people collecting, Peace being established. Poeeno is also come in, and has intercourse with the Oparre People as usual, but I have forbade him to see me, until the property of C. Weatherhead is returned. They say it is at Teturoah, & shall be brought in as soon as the wind will permit them to send for it. This will be more than I expect, for to day Mr. Bond bought two dollars for a few trifles he had about him, it is probable therefore that no one person has it in his possession.
[Page 287] Remk Wednesday May 2nd. 1792 In Matavai Bay Cloudy wr. and light variable winds & calms. Therm. From 81 to 83 degrees.- Employed in the Hold Carpenters making places for the plants on the Quarter Deck and caulking the Larboard side. Recd 3 tons ballast. Very sufficient supplies. The People begin to collect about Matavai and particularly women & children. A woman with a child about 18 months old, calling herself the wife of McIntosh, (late of the Bounty & gone home in the Pandora) came to me to day and told me, she had constantly lived with McIntosh, and he was the Father of the child, a fine little girl, she had then in her arms.
[Page 288] Sail - This This woman who calls herself Mary, ( & her child Elizabeth, for she says all the mens wives had English names) constantly remarked that McIntosh, Coleman, Norman, Hilbrandt, Byrne, & Ellison scarcely ever spoke of me without crying. Stewart & Haywood were perfectly satisfied with their situation, So perfectly had this woman been informed of the whole story, that she told me of all the men who came into my Cabbin & assisted to tie Our sick list consists only of Venereals & People unfit for duty, owing to boils about their extremities which the change of diet has occasioned.
[Page 289] Remk Thursday 3rd May 1792 In Matavai Bay Land & sea breezes SE and EbN with some Westerly breezes in the morning. Therm. From 81 to 82 ½ degrees. Employed in the Hold and caulking the sides and building places for the plants on the Quarter Deck. Recd. 4 tons of ballast per launch. Cooper repairing casks and making tubs for the plants. Sufficient supplies of every kind. [Note in Margin Stone ballast in all taken in here 22 tons] No chiefs of any consequence have yet come to see us, except the Otoo family. The Matavai People have begun to errect some sheds, but a number of them have not yet returned, so that it is not clear to me, that good fellowship is yet established among them, altho Poeeno is here and is on very good terms with our Oparre friends I do not suffer him to visit me notwithstanding, but have given him permition to come on board on the money being returned belonging to Captain Weatherhead By messages he assures me it shall be brought, I however doubt it being in his power a dollar to day was brought to me offered in exchange for a knife, this is the third we have recd.; and I fear the whole is not to be got, it being in the possession of many proprietors, at least among those who will think themselves so. Lieut Tobin made an excursion to day accompanied by Mr. Franklin the Surgeon of the Assistant which terminated in being outwitted by an Indian
[Page 290] I have taken the greatest pains to explain to my Officiers, & People in general how little they were to rely on the fidelity of Indians. Direct orders, that all those who had leave to go on shore should return to the Post before the sun was set Informed them that if they took distant walks without having a Chief with them they were subject to be insulted and stript of their clothes, besides showing them the many consequences which would hurt the general good Yet these gentlemen tired even of wearing their own jackets pulled them off (with the only arms they had being in the pockets) and gave the whole to a worthless fellow to carry, who had thought it worth his trouble to follow them, - A short time after gave him an opportunity to lead them into an intricate and blind path, where without any ceremony he abruptly took his leave, and left his benefactors to find the way home by themselves, which they did not accomplish until 8 oclock. I determined This day we shifted 68 pots of plants that were not so well looking as I could wish, and planted 16 tubs & boxes. -
[Page 291] Remk Friday 4th May 1792 - Matavai Bay Light winds at EbN, SE, NW and calms. The therm. from 79 to 83 degrees In the morning our old friend the Queen Dowager Oberreeroah arrived from Moreah and her daughter, Wow,wo. Nothing could exceed their joy and kind congratulations, in the midst of which they disavowed any friendly intercourse with Christian and exculpated their whole family. It is remarkable the pains all the Chiefs have taken to prevent any stigma lying with them on that account. Wow,wo who is now called Whyerreddee & who in my last voyage was cured of a scrofula by Mr Ledward, enquired particularly after him, & acknowledged the great good he had done her she was now in perfect
[Page 292] health, except an ulcer she had in her right leg about the ankle which she said was not the same disease as she had before, and requested the surgeon to cure it. All the Otoo family are now here Wow,wos husband who in my last voyage I mentioned was Erreerahigh of Mo,reah is since dead The present Chief is called Mahow (a) a nephew of Oberreeroah, he is always with us and very pleasant good creature. He informs me that there are only six horned cattle at Moreah. [Note in Margin (a) see 8th May] Oberreeroah had only a few attendants with her, who all shared in my good wished towards her. Among the many things I gave them linen bedgowns pleased them the most. Tynah, Iddeeah, Wyerreddee & Hammennemanne dined with me as in general they do every day; but Oberreeroah & Wow,wo eat nothing untill they get on shore in the evening. An account was brought me to day, that Poeeno & all his adherents had left Matavai and fled to Itteeah, the cause of this was owing to an attempt of Wydooah (the younger bro. of Tynah) to seize on the musquets which Tabyroo had the
[Page 293] charge of, and kept at a distance from Matavai.
[Page 294] Remk Saturday May 5th 1792 In Matavai Bay Fine wr. and East winds varying at night to the SSE & SE off the land. Therm. 82 to 84 degrees. Employed in the Hold completing the ground tier with ballast. Cooper making tubs for plants & the carpenters making boxes. In the afternoon the People employed in mending their cloaths. In my walk to day I found a few Matavai People in their dwellings, it appeared to me that these People were become attatched to the Oparre interest. Tynah took me to an Oope,owpah (or Concert) . There were three flutes & two drums. These performances do not want
[Page 295] Remk Sunday May 6th 1792 In Matavai Bay Land & sea breezes with calms The Therm from 81 to 83 degrees Sufficient supplies. Mustered the Ships Company after washing and cleaning Ship a more healthy set of men were never seen. The sick list contains three venereals and one man with a fever which he caught by coming on deck in the night without his cloaths very severe cramp has seized his limbs. Performed Divine Service. Oreepyah to day brought back the things that had been taken away from Mr. Tobin & Mr. Franklin. His attention & dilligence on the occasion deserved praise, and I promised him not to forget it, - made him a present of a shirt & some [indecipherable] I saw a dwarf about eight years old The boys head was very large. Since my account on the 30th we have completed (as per daily account) with breadfruit plants 26 boxes and 13 tubs each having 3 & most of them 4 plants. The number of breadfruit plants that we have shifted amount to 154. Other fruits etc
[Page 296] Remk Monday May 7th 1792 In Matavai Bay Fair wr. with land & sea breezes SSE & East. Therm. from 81 to 83 Degrees. at night we had a light shower of rain. Sufficient supplies. Carpenters employed making extra places for the plants hauled the launch ashore to repair her & to raise her a strake higher.- Hands going on with such parts of the rigging as it is not necessary to have exposed to the weather. We continue on the best footing with the Natives, and our plants promise to do well. An account was brought to me to day from Tabyroo, that the money was come from Teturoah, and
[Page 297] Remk Tuesday May 8th 1792 In Matavai Bay Fair wr. with land & sea breezes at SE & EbyN Therm. from 81 to 84 degrees. Sufficient supplies of all articles common at this place. Early in the morning I had a visit from Toeepoee, the wife of Poho,ai,taiah Otee, a Chief of Itteeah. He was a fine active young man and highly respected. I have mentioned him in my last voyage as a person who was fed in the same manner as Tynah. Nothing can exceed the vehemence with which his wife Tynah was called away suddenly this morning to Oparre without my knowledge on his return he told she had been to Pooray (a), for he had ordered a man at Tiarraboo to be sacrificed and sent here to be presented to the Etuah. About 12 OClock, Ideeah who was on board, showed me a cannoe going past the Ship with a human scarifice from Wannah a Chief of Happy,ano, this was not offered to the Etuah, but to Otoo the Erreerahigh. I was unwell all this [Note in margin (a) to pray]
[Page 298] day and did not dare go to Oparre where I must be exposed to the sun, - from the accounts however, it was of no consequence, as I should not have seen any thing more than I have remarked on the 28th April. These sacrifices are truly shocking and savage, and I am sorry to say, I find they are made not only on solemn occasions, but on the most trifling differences between great & inferior Chiefs & upon the Erreerahighs sudden whim or desire of praying to his Etuah. I cannot In my last voyage I have given a particular account of the principal families of this island (see page 327). From a connection in the female line, the present Otows Grandmother being sister to the then King of Tiarraboo, his grand (a) child is now become Erree of that place; the heirs of Whaeeah,tuah in the make line being extinct. The late Whaeeah,tuah whose wife (b) Tynah is now connected with, died without any children, & on his death (since my last voyage) [Note in margin (a) Tynahs 2nd son Terreetapanooai (b) Whyerreddee]
[Page 299] Terreetapanooai The Tiarraboo People always insisted that Whaeeah,tuah was Erreerahigh of that country, and Otoo Erreerahigh of the Western part of the Island; but all the Otoo family & their connections. say there is only one Erreerahigh; their power however has not marked any superiorty over the Tiarraboo People since our time, and the present Terreetapanooai has taken the name of Whaeeah,tuah. We may date thie birth of this boy in the year 1787 and his being acknowledged as Erree in 1790. It is a remarkable thing, that Otoro and Oberreeroah with all their sons should be perfectly free of the Evil or any scrofulous disease, and that their daughters should be infected with it. Tynah and Iddeeah also perfectly free & with every appearance of the most healthy people, have their only daughter Tahamydooah infected with it about the glands of the throat But in Iddeeahs children there is an exception to the disease following the female line, for her last child Oroho (a boy of 18 months old) has the disease broke out in his groin. May not this be owing to Iddeeah having intercourse with too many different men? I am of opinion, from the great number of different men who cohabit with one woman in this country,
[Page 300] I find that Otoo is betrothed to his Cousin Tarro,aheinee a child of his Aunt Wowwo, born since 1789, so that as I have observed before first cousins marry. This is a very fine little girl about 12 months old, and is to all appearances free of any disease, altho its Mother is scrofulous in a high degree. The father Moduarro Chief of Moreah when I was in the Bounty, is dead, and his Son Tettoo,anooee elected in his stead.
[Page 301] Remk Wednesday May 9th 1792 Matavai Bay Fine wr. with land & sea breezes & calms. Therm. from 80 ½ to 83 ½ degrees. Employed in making places for the plants repairing the launch and fitting blocks & other necessary parts of the rigging. Sufficient supplies but not abundant as in the beginning. I have always Tynah and his relations about me they dine with me every day. A few people from different places of little note have been to see us, to whom Tynah has according to his usual custom distributed Toeys, knives, etc, etc this little power which I have always accustomed him to, pleases him exceedingly, & I must acknowledge he has never abused the indulgence, but on the contrary acted with the greatest frugality. About noon Mr. Norris returned from Tabyroo who had now retreated far back into the mountains complaining of the treachery of his People, a number of them having left him. with a few trusty fellows he however kept possession of the muscats and was All the money that was in his power to procure he had now got, which was delivered to Mr. Norris, & Mr. Marshall the Chf Mate. It was 172 Dollars & three half crown pieces ten other dollars were received at the Post which made 182 Spanish Dollars in the whole & a watch belonging to the late Chief Mate N3827.
[Page 302] Makers name Ian Henkels Amsterdam this was a silver watch value about 30/- Here ends our negotiation with Tabyroo for money, as he has declared he can get no more it is however not half of what the Captain states he left behind him. (a) [Note in margin (a) See 10th April] Otoo visits us every day at the Post and returns to Oparre in the evening as soon as the sun sets He sits the whole day on the shoulders of some one of his servants for he has a number with him who shift every quarter or half hour He amuses himself with childish tricks and going among our people. I date the year of his birth 1783.
[Page 303] Remk Thursday May 10th 1792 Matavai Bay Fair wr. and cloudy wr. with calms and variable winds. Therm from 80 to 82 ½ degrees. Sufficient supplies of every article employed building extra places for the plants Cooper making tubs for ditto Carpenters about the launch - hands about the rigging. Calms & variable winds with very cloudy wr. with a little shower of rain. Therm from 81 to 82 ½ degrees. Sick list 9 Venereals. Employed as yesterday. Punished James Coombes Marine with 12 lashes for having disobeyed my orders & having connection with a woman while he was infected with the venereal disease. Nothing but severe punishment Every thing remains quiet & but few of the Natives about us we have however sufficient supplies. In addition to my constant guests Tynah & his Wives & Brother Oreepyah, I had my old friend Moan,nah or Monah spoken of in my last voyage. He then quitted me from a fear of my displeasure in not getting the deserters.
[Page 304] Remk Saturday May 12th 1792 Matavai Bay Cloudy wr. with variable winds round the compass & calms sea breeze a few hours in the afternoon Therm from 80 to 82 ½ degrees Employed washing and cleaning. While I was at Van Diemans Land I procured a quantity of Plank of the Metrocedera, to enable me to make boxes and extra places for my plants. This has given me an opportunity to remark, that the wood which strangers would imagine was fit for the common purposes of building is not, in fact, worth anything or valuable for any purpose, but fuel, when sawn into plank, it is Oreepyah, with his nephew Otoo, the King &
[Page 305]
Before they sat out on their expedition is was necessary to consult me Tynah therefore came with the party to I indulged him in We have now so few people about us that I have no new circumstances to relate the day passes over in quiet, and the busyness of the Ship is carried out without interruption as we have seldom fifty of the Natives on board at any one time a few canoes are generally passing and repassing, and those supply us with as much as we are in need of. Matavai still remains a deserted a village, some families however are come in, and the women and children have their little amusements as I have described common to them in my last voyage.- Towards Tarrah, which hill divides Matavai from Oparre, a great deal of injury is done to the finest of the trees numbers of them are barkd all round and are in a dying state, but others have been considered of such value, that the Natives have endeavoured to save them by laying on a bandage or plaister of clayish kind of soil round the wound, and wrapping it carefully over the leaves. Here we find among a set of People, whose minds are uncultivated, what has lately been extolled in our own country as an
[Page 306] Not far from this spot, was the residence of Peter Haywood the Villain who assisted in taking the Bounty from me. His house was at the foot of a hill, the top of which gave him a fine look out. He had regulated his garden & the avenue to his house with some taste, the latter was made conspicuous by a bow of fine shaddock trees which, like other favourite things, suffered in the late war. The care with which all the
[Page 307] Remk Sunday 13th May, 1792 Cloudy wr. at times & a few showers of rain in the night. Wind EbN Therm from 80 to 82 degrees Saw every person clean and as usual on this Day I performed Divine Service. This being the Po no tetuah, as the Natives called it, we have fewer of them about us, as they see we observe
[Page 308] Remk Monday 14th May 1792 Matavai Bay Light variable airs & calms most of the whole day and a sultry heat. Wind at East towards the evening. Therm from 80 to 84 degrees. Employed in building extra places for the plants and repairing the Launch. Moderate supplies. This morning examined all our plants, & arranged all the doubtful Remk Tuesday 15th May 1792 This day we had light westerly winds & calms. The clouds hung heavy about the hills and promised rain, but it did not reach the low land Therm. from 81 to 84 degrees. We have now but very few Natives about us we have nevertheless sufficient supplies As I now happily found my nervous complaint much removed, I got my observatory up and my Astronomical Quadrant ready to make some observations for the rate of my Time Keepers, which I have hitherto examined by daily altitudes in the afternoon, the horizon being open to the NW.
[Page 309] Remk Wednesday 16th May 1792 Matavai Bay We had mostly calms to day except a few hours in the afternoon when a light easterly breeze backing the clouds that had been driven from the westward, produced a fine refreshing rain which not only benefitted our plants but the whole country. The therm. 78 to 81 degrees. I find that the cause of our having but few people about us, is their being gone to Papparah. Only Tynah & his Wife Whyerreddee remain with me. Our supplies are sparing, but we are generally provided against such times, by keeping a sufficient In the morning I had the Seine hauled near the East Head of Tarrah, and caught 190 lbs of fine fish Cavallys from 2 to 10 lbs weight Fine Mullet Horse Mackarel kind of Herring a number of small fish, something like a Gurnet and a few other sorts not known. Served an allowance to each man.
[Page 310] Remk Thursday 17th May 1792 Until 4 OClock this afternoon it was generally calm, the remaining part of the day light winds at EbN & ESE and cloudy Wr. throughout Therm from 79 to 82 degrees. Employed repairing the Launch, and about the rigging. Very few Natives about our Post, or Ship, and our supplies to day confined to Breadfruit, Vees and Plantains. The Venereal list is now increased to 10 Two of them have been under care ever since we left tenariffe. Our plants benefit by the cloudy wr. and are in general in a thriving state.-
[Page 311] Remk Friday 18th May 1792. Matvai Bay Light winds, calms & cloudy wr. at sea wind generally at EE In the morning & afternoon some small showers of rain. Therm from 78 to 81 ½ degrees. Employed repairing the Launch, fitting extra places and stands for the plants Refitting the rigging. Very few Natives about us, and excepting my Friends Tynah and Monah, no person of consequence, so that we have no bustle or anything passing curious or interesting. We have still a sufficient supply of provisions to enable me to continue an allowance of 1 ½ lbs of Pork per man with as much Bread Fruit, Cocoa Nutts, Plantains and Vees as can be used. Some of our People who have been sent to the River for water [indecipherable] have lately been insulted by some worthless fellows, who threw stones and dirt at them, & endeavoured to take away their cloaths. I thought it proper to punish such unfriendly behaviour, and one of the offenders appearing on the Post, I ordered him to be seized & put in irons. I had little difficulty to explain to the Natives the cause of it, when they all exclaimed You have done right kill him" indeed they seemed not so interest themselves about him, altho they told me he was a person belonging to Oreepyah.
[Page 312] Remk Saturday 19th May 1792 During the morning, calms with light winds and much rain Towards Noon the weather came fair with light East winds but at sea it appeared very squally & wind to the SE. Towards midnight it blew fresh from the ESE Therm. from Employed cleaning Ship, washing and mending cloaths. Moderate supplies. At 2 OClock this morning a Native under cover of a thick squall of rain opened the Port of the first Lieutenants cabbin, and took from him the sheet that covered him in his bed, which was not discovered untill the last inch of it was pulled from under him. Boats were sent after the Native but to no effect, the night was so dark it favoured his escape. Whether this man had hid himself at sun set when all the Natives are turned out of the Ship, or had swam off, we cannot determine, it appears however that he had made an attempt on the same article about midnight but Mr. Bond not suspecting the twitches which he Tynah as usual dined with me, - after dinner I told him I had a man in irons, whom I intended to punish for insulting my officiers & people. He agreed with me that the man deserved it, and I ordered him to receive 36 lashes on his backside. I have observed that no impression can be made on their shoulder.
[Page 313] And therefore tried this part, but the man received the punishment without moaning or whining. It must be owing to the bodies of these people being constantly exposed, that they feel so little of a punishment which is exceedingly severe, in all other cases they are as susceptible of pain as we are. I ordered the prisoner again into irons. In the morning we were so successful with our Seine that every person was supplied in a plentifull manner they caught 300 lbs weight of fine Cavallies.
[Page 314] Remk Sunday 20th May 1792 - Matavai Bay Strong winds and fair weather ESE Therm. from 78 1/2 to 81 1/2 degrees. - Mustered the Ship's Company and saw them all cleaned dressed - Performed Divine Service - gave leave to a party to go on shore. - Another complaint was made to me to day of a Native beating one of the Seamen and giving him a black eye. The parties happened to be on board, I could therefore hear the story on both sides which went so much against the Native that I ordered the Seaman to take his own satisfaction - a few strong blows made his antagonist jump into the sea. - In my general orders I forbid either man or officer to redress his own grievance with a Native, or to strike him upon any pretence whatever - Many worthless fellows have taken an advantage of this; I however expect I have prevented its happening in future, if they Chiefs have done as they have promised me,
[Page 315] Remk Monday 21st May 1792 Matavai Bay Strong breezes at ESE moderating at night and the wind at sea at SE - Therm from 77 1/2 to 81 1/2 degrees. Sent the Fore TS on shore to repair - Carpenters about the launch & others comleteing places for the Plants. - Hands about the rigging - Sufficient supplies, but very few Natives about us. After dinner Tynah solicited me to forgive the man whom I had in irons - He promised ardently not to behave ill again, I therefore forgave him and he was dismissed. -
[Page 316] Remk Tuesday 22nd May 1792 Matavai Bay Moderate breezes at E & ESE and fair wr. Therm from 76 to 81 1/2 degrees - some light rain - Employed as yesterday. - I have now got the most of my plants that I brought from England & The Cape of Good Hope, planted in places where I hope they will be taken care of. The principal dependance I have, is upon Our supplies are brought off so scantily to the Ship, that I am now obliged to send a boat, about the shore between this & Oparre, to trade for hogs - I never saw so few People about us, as at this time Tynah & Monah are the only people of consequence who dine with me generally every day - nothing new occurs - The day passes with me in attending to the different duties of the ship, and the wellfare of the plants,
[Page 317] Remk Wednesday 23rd May 1792 Matavai Bay Wind at East - Fresh breezes & cloudy. Wr. lessening ay night with some calms - rain in the mountains & a light sprinkling at the Post. - Therm from 76 to 81 1/2 degrees. - These three weeks past we have had no swell in the bay or surf on the shore. - So very little is now brought to the Ship that I am obliged to send the boat to Oparre for provisions of every kind. - Sailmakers repairing sails. Carpenters about the Launch & fixing a new Trussel tree to the Main Top Mast the old one was carried away at sea - on examining it, I found it had been sprung before we left England, & the Shipwright at Woolwich had disgracefully attempted to secure it by nailing. - Hauled the Seine caught 50 weight of fish which was served to the People.
[Page 318] Remk Thursday 24th May 1792 Fair wr. with some showers of rain - Wind at E & EbS. Therm. from 80 to 82 degrees. - Employed about the rigging - Launch & repairing the Main TS. - In the morning hauled the Seine & caught 150lbs of fine Cavallies, Horse Macral and Ribband fish (having briloiant stripes that characterises them. - Washed & cleaned Ship - This morning I was informed that an Indian had got by stealth into our Post last night and stolen several articles of Cloaths - several circumstances occurred, which if true In the night a fellow was
[Page 319] Remk Friday 25th May 1792 In Matavai Bay Light breezes Easterly & calms with some light refreshing showers of rain. - Therm from 78 to 83 degrees. - At day light I had the Ship unmoored to examine the cables, which we found not at all injured - by 2 O'Clock we shifted our berth a little more to the NNE, and moored with an open Hawse to the East winds as I now considered no winds of any consequence to be expected from the sea. - Bearings, the End of the Reef N23° W Point Venus N23° E dist. a mile, from the nearest beach 1/4 of a mile. - The Heads of Tarrah S10° W to S27° W. The Sm. Br in10 fms. The best br. In 14 1/2 fms. After dinner Tynah and his Wives requested I would accompany them to a Heivah - they are remarkably fond of these amusements and as my presence always In the evening we gave great entertainment to the Natives by setting off a dozen sky rockets. We have ever found them highly delighted with our fire works.
[Page 320] Remk Saturday 26th May 1792 Fresh breezes and fair Wr. Wind EbN - The therm. from 78 to 83 1/2 degrees. - Employed in mending and washing cloaths as usual on this day. - Our supplies are sufficient but we have very little more than we absolutely want. - Our Venereal List is increased to 20. - I received a parcel of fine (a) Breadfruit plants to day from Tiarraboo which are reckoned vastly superior to any at this place - I had heard of this kind, & had such reports confirmed to me by the Chiefs, that I employed two men to go for them. Our number of plants are now increased by 7 tubs containing 3 to 5 plants each - 7 small pots containing one & two each, and 7 extra pots by Ay,yahs (the Jambo of Java). - I have taken some small Bread Fruit trees in very large tubs such as half halfhogshead. I expect they will stand the sea if none of the others do. - All the plants are now in charming order, spreading their leaves delightfully. I have completed
[Page 321] Remk Sunday 27th May 1792 - Matavai Bay This day terminated with very heavy rain wind variable. - Therm. from 78 to 83 1/2 degrees I went on board the Assistant, where I found everything Our supplies of breadfruit are worse every day as are the Plantains, but of Hogs Vees & Mahie we have sufficient. Tynah with his wives, dined as usual with me to day, he had however taken such a dose of Avah before he came on board, that his common allowance of wine made him very drunk - while the heightof the fit was on him, he was so convulsed as to require sic people to confine him to the cabbin deck. - Iddeeah, altho the cast off wife, took more pains to assist him than Whyerreddee, and after she had recovered him from the A Towtow (a) in this country can never get permition to be connected with a woman, who is above him in situation, and to live with her publickly as man & wife -
[Page 322] about and meet his mistress In the beginning of the night Tarrah Hill was beautifully illuminated with Flambeaus to light Tynah over, who had stayed late at Oparre, perhaps a prettier sight was never seen than the effect it had upon the smooth water about the shore, for the lights were brilliant & numerous - when any of the Royal fammily pass over the hill they have it lighted, as the road is bad and a fall is likely to be attended with bad consequences. - Notwithstanding the rage the Otaheiteans have for our cloaths of every kind, yet we find some of them so honest that the people in general have given them their linnen to wash - no losses have yet been experienced, but every thing returned in good order.
[Page 323] I have endeavoured by every means to get a knowledge whether marriage has any common and general ceremony attending it, to give legallity to the man & woman living together, and I find from the best collected accounts among those people who are capable of giving me information, that there is no general With Chiefs & particular persons, the parents of the woman are sollicited for their consent, and untill they give it the man dares not to take the woman away. When the parents approve of the match, there is a ceremony of prayer at a Morai and th eparents perform Oammo to the married couple. (This Oammo or Oammoah, as it is called, is a ceremony performed by parents to their children when they are supposed to be able to [Note in margin - See 20th April] The parties may separate whenever they chose. A man may have as many wives as he pleases, and a woman may have as many Gallants as her husband has different wives. - The woman who bears the children has greater priviledges than those who do not - they always partake of The infidelity of a wife, beyond what
[Page 324] for a husband who has It is remarkable that the ceremony of prayer is only performed to the first woman, one
[Page 325] Monday 28th May 1792 In Matavai Bay During the morning frequent hard rain about Noon, it began to clear up & remained fair with very strong winds from the WSW at night & mod. Westly winds the other part of the day - Therm. from 78 1/2 to 80 degrees. - Employed at the Forge, Carpenters at the Launch, Sailmakers about the main Top Sail. We have sufficient supplies of pork, cocoa nutts, plantains, vees & tarra and mahie, but breadfruit not to be got except a few heads which are brought from the country. - Accounts were brought to Iddeeah & Tynah that their daughter Tahamydooah was dead, They cared very little about it, particularly Tynah, but Iddeeah at last shed a few tears. The people who had the care of the child had been to Papparah with it to see some Heivahs - it there caught a violent cold which terminated in a fever, and it died on it's
[Page 326] Tuesday 29th May 1792 Land & sea breezes. Therm. from 72 to 79 degrees. Employed as yesterday. - No bread fruit to be got, and am obliged to send on shore after other supplies the Natives being indifferent about bringing them to sale. - This morning I went to Oparre to look after some plants I have ordered to be planted in the hills at Tynah's country seat - I found them all in good order & taken care of, but I have little hope that the People will persevere in guarding them from accident , as not one article that I left here last voyage is remaining. - I have now planted here 59 orange & citron plants and 12 pine apple, besides many seeds, and 8 fine young firs which the natives value the most, as they are likely to produce tehm plank & masts. Upon any part of those hills the situation is delightful. This place of Tynah's is charmingly diversified and shaded with cocoa nutt trees & bread fruit - he has a few old People to look after it whose only stock is a few fowls and half starved hogs. Whenever Tynah goes there himself, he takes food with him, such as fish or pork, cocoa nutts & breadfruitis all else that is required. Our repast was a baked fowl Teturoah bore N7° W. - On my return I found Iddeeah attending her dead child at a distance from her friends, and in a melancholy manner - The child was laid out under a neat shed with her hands laid over her breasts as our
[Page 327] custom is - a piece of European scarlet cloth besides some very neat country cloth, covered the body - a man attended dressed in a clean manner to show the child to the friends, and while remarkable silence and a small number of It is only with Errees that the body remainsso long on the Tupapow - with the lower orders of the People it is put into the Eath after a short time allotted for the friends to mourn. Our foriend Tynah was not at all concerned at the loss of this child, he would not however return with me to the Ship, for he seemed to consider it but decent to remain with Iddeeah - they told me their mourning would be over in two days, and they would return to the Ship. In my last voyage I have spoken of the Natives embalming their Chiefs. There are particular People whose business
[Page 328] lay the dead bosies out in the same manner. After the body is thus cleaned by scraping the bowels are taken out (by introducing the hand at the anus), and buried - The inside is dried by the same means, and a wash is in the mean time prepared with which it thoroughly cleaned, and of which it imbibes a considerable quantity. - The mouth and throat are not less attended to, and the eyes are carefully washed and the lids closed. - The wash is made from the leaves of certain plants or trees which are in the mountains, known only to the undertakers. - They are bruized and the juice being pressed from them without any mixture of water - preserves the body in a very firm state. - Tahamydooah they say will not be embalmed.
[Page 329] Rem. Wednesday 30th May 1792. Matavai Bay Land and sea breezes and fair wr. Therm from 73 to 79 degrees. - Employed tarring the rigging - Armourer at the forge - Carpenters about the launch - Sailmakers repairing the Fore Sail. - Cooper making tubs for plants. - Cleaned Ship and aired below with fires - Water let into the Ship twice a day & the pumps worked as usual. - We have still sufficient supplies to allow every Person one pound and half of Pork per day - No breadfruit to be got for common use plantains tarrow - mahie & vees are all we can get Oreepyah with his wife arrived today from Paparrah, Otoo the young King I got a few large plants or rather young trees into tubs to day in addition to
[Page 330] Rem. Thursday 31st May 1792. Land & sea breezes and fair wr. The therm. from 75 to 79 degrees. - Employed as yesterday. - Unhappily to day I Had a severe attack of my nerves head ach - I attributed it to my making some astronomical observations, and the extreme heat of my observatory. I am never thoroughly clear of the head ach, nut when these dreadful fits seige Remk Friday 1st June 1792. Moderate beezes at East & calms with land airs at night. The therm. from78 to 80 1/2 degrees. The air however felt as if the Therm. had been at 84° at least. - Nothing new - a few Natives about us bring a few scanty supplies of plantains, cocoa nutts, vees & a few tarro - My head ach not so bad but I can bear but little noise. -
[Page 331] Rem. Saturday 2nd June 1792. Matavai Bay The morning and night light breezes from the land at South. - During the day strong breezes from the WSW. Therm from 74 to 80 degrees. Employed in washing and cleaning Ship airing below with fires and mending clothes. - Served tobacco. Carpenters finished the launch, and have made a very fine boat of her - all men of war boat are a strake too low. Got a few very good breadfruit to day from the country. - The trees about the low grounds have a fine show of green fruit about 1/4 grown and in some places more forward. I find my nervous complaint much better to day, which I attribute to bathing in Matavai River at sun rise where this water is fresh, A few infected with gonorrhea have applied, but we have seen none who are remarkably bad of My plants are doing wonderfully well & I have added two small trees to the number to day.
[Page 332] Rem. Sunday 3rd June 1792. Light winds at night but strong WSW winds during the day. - Mustered the Ships Company & saw them all clean dressed - Read the Articles of War & Abstract. - Performed Divine Service, and gave leave to a party ot go onshore. - Got a moderate supply of tarro breadfruit - a sufficiency of hogs cocoa nuts & vees. Tynah and his wives as usual dined with me to day - He took an opportunity to sollicit the attendance of the Surgeon on his youngest child Oro,oh (a) who he said was very ill. We found it under the care of an old man, for
[Page 333] the Mother [Note in margin (a) see 20th & 27 April] It is happily different with the lower order of the People - the Father & Mother have mostly their flock of little children about them, they nurse them with great care & tenderness, and receive returns of affection and respect. In short no parents can regard or attend to their children more than they do, and but few more engaging & pretty children are to be met with, could we divest ourselves of the dislike to the colour.
[Page 334] Remk Monday June 4th 1792 Matavai Bay. Light variable winds round the compass & fair wr. Therm from 75 to 79 degrees. - In commemoration of the birth of our most gracious and good King we held this day as a festival. - At 8 O'Clock in the morning both Ships were dressed to the great delight of the Natives. At noon the Marines were drawn up under Arms and fired three vollies and the
[Page 335] tongue - it always made him feel very bold. - Our custom has been to overhaul the plants every Monday morning - they had a very fine appearance to day, and I have the pleasure to think every plants has firmly taken root. - Our account now stands thus. Pots of Bread Fruit - 1099 - two plants in most of the pots
[Page 336] Remk Tuesday June 5th 1792 Matavai Bay Fine wr. with some calms - wind East. Therm. from 74 to 80 degrees.- Employed at the Forge - Got on board the Launch, and hauled the large Cutter up to repair. Sailmakers employed about the jib & Main Top Mast Stay Sail. Carpenters making railings for the sky lights to prevent any things falling on the plants. Haul the Seine & caught about 150 lbs of fish. - Sufficient supplies except of Bread Fruit, only a few baskets of which are brought on board - Tarro & Plantains we have instead of it, but not in great altho sufficient abundance. The indolence of the People in our neighbourhood is so great, that now the Breadfruit is not to be had, they have very little to eat. No country in the World would produce greater plenty of ground provisions, yet these lazy wretches cultivate scarce a yam or potato. In the whole district of Matavai & Oparre I have not seen half
[Page 337] Remk Wednesday 6th June 1792 Matavai Bay Moderate sea breezes at East. Land winds at SSE. Wr. fine. - Therm from 73 to 80 degrees Employed at the Forge - mending sails - repairing the large Cutter - making railings for the sky lights - washing Ship and airing with Fires. - As Tynah engaged to go down to Tetta,ah to get some Plantains & other provisions for the Ship, I sent him away in the boat by day dawn with sufficient presents to have purchased a large quantity , but he was not successful for he returned about three O'Clock in the afternoon with only a few Plantains & Cocoanutts. - I never saw a regular Plantain Walk in Otaheite - a few trees are stuck in about their houses, and these are dispersed around the hills in the same manner - this is all the trouble taken with them or with any thing else that requires regular planting - clearing and keeping their grounds neat & free from weeds is beneath the care of an Otaheitian - They have as little neatness about their dwellings - An Otaheite village, if their mixt dwellings may be so called, is the dirtyest place imaginable, every thing is thrown before and around the house, even if they fix their sheds upon the sea side they will not take the trouble to throw the filth into the sea, if they have only ten yards to carry it - Yet no People in
[Page 338] the world are cleaner in their persons. So much sloth and indolence may be atrributed to the vast support that all bountiful nature has given them in the I asked Iddeeah to day if her name was to be changed on account of her late Child dying, she said no as the name was given to the Child's Aunt, Wattowaw, who in my last voyage was called Towry. - Oreepyah has fancifully taken the name of Abobo [indecipherable] Since my last voyage, Heivah, the common name (a) for all their dances, has been taken by Terrederrie, and Tynah also took the name of Mattee, which signifies to kill, and Po,ee was ordered to be used instead of it
[Page 339] which was strictly attended to - I remember Iddeeah scolding at the People when they inadvertently made use of the word Mattee - I should imagine this mode of changing names must be attended with many disadvantages to the language. - The alteration in the course of a century must be very great -
[Page 340] Remk Thursday 7th June 1792 Matavai Bay Light breezes at east & some calms in the night. Winds from the land at SE & SbyE - Therm from 75 to 80 degrees Employed about the large Cutter, fitting the ports, mending sails & hauling the Seine. Sufficient supplies of Hogs, Plantains, Tarro & Vees, but Breadfruit only a few heads.- Caught very few fish.- Found a few of our Plants attacked by a kind of weavel which entered rinds and made their doing well very doubtful. I therefore directed them to be shifted, lest the other plants might be injured in our voyage home. We have but very few People about us, and no person but Tynah & his wives of any consequence who dine with me every day. Otoo
[Page 341] Remk Friday 8th June 1792 Matavai Bay Fresh westerly breezes in the day and very cloudy threatening rain - at night cloudy & wind from the land - rain in the mountains - Therm from 78 to 82 1/2 degrees. - Employed at the Forge - Repairing the large Cutter - Sails & about the Rigging - A party on shore cutting up a tree that Tynah gave to us. - Sufficient supplies of Hogs, Plantains, Vees, Mahie & Tarro. - Remk Saturday 9th June 1792 - Light breezes & fair weather with calms in the first part of the morning. Land winds at night. Wind E & SE. Therm from 74 to 80 degrees. Employed as yesterday in the morning, but the remainder of the day the People had to themselves to mend & wash their clothes. Hauled the Seine without success. Sufficient supplies as yesterday, but no increase of the Natives about us, scarce ever more than a dozen on board at a time. The young Breadfruit are in abundance upon the trees, & I get a head or two brought to me almost every day.
[Page 342] Remk Sunday 10th June 1792 Matavai Bay Light land & sea breezes E and SE - Therm. from 75 to 80 1/2 degrees. - Washed & cleaned Ship - Hauled the Seine - Mustered the Ship's Company & saw them all cleaned dressed - Performed Divine service - gave leave to a party to go on shore. - Sufficient supplies of Hogs, Plantains & Tarro & abundanceof Vees and Cocoanutts. Remk Monday 11th June 1792 Calms with winds at W & WSW and the Therm 77 to 81 degrees - Employed at the Forge - mending sails - about the rigging - Carpenters about the large Cutter, lining and fitting the Ports - Cooper repairing casks and making small one for the boats. -
[Page 343] About a half past 10 at night Mr Guthrie informed me a These people are become so troublesome in the dark nights, that it requires our utmost exertions to prevent them from taking away all we have. I fear very much some of them will be shot, for I have been under the necessity to give orders to that effect, in order to deter them in their attempts one vicious fellow may destroy all our plants & cut our ships adrift. - Every man woman & child know
[Page 344] Remk. Tuesday 12th June 1792 Matavai Bay Light Westerly winds & fair wr. untill Noon - when the wind came very strong in squalls from the West WNW & NW with a small shower of rain - at night calm. - Employed mending sails - repairing boats - Armourer at the Forge - Cooper repairing casks - refitting the rattlings and about the rigging. Sufficient supplies of Hogs, Plantains, Tarro, Avees, Cocoanutts, a few yams and heads of new Breadfruit. - We have very few Natives about us and no strangers. Tynah & his wives dine with me every day, & occasioally (as it suits their convenience) Monah & Oreepyah with his brother Whydooah. The three brothers are become very drunken & the women not much better for they all drink Avah. Tynah has been so bad lately, that I have been obliged to forbid any person giving him I passed in my walk to day a Morai which was called Rooah,addoo - it consisted of a few stones about three feet square with pieces of plaited cocoanutt leaves (a) (called Tepaow) placed before it [Note in margin - (a) Erah,ighree when presented to a Chiefs feet]
[Page 345] with some small pieces of Tarro and Cocoanutts. The Evatah, I heard that the man who
[Page 346] Light variable winds & calms - much swell in the bay - Therm 76 to 81 1/2 degrees - Employed as yesterday - cleaned Ship - Supplies sufficient & more Breadfruit - Our plants are doing remarkably well and I expect that in the course of a month at farthest they will be fit to bring on board. - Our Sick List consists
[Page 347] Remk Thursday 14 June 1792 In Matavai Light Westerly winds and calm with much swell in the bay. Therm from 77 to 80 degrees. In my observ. on shore it was 90 degrees. - Employed breeming the bends - mending sails - cutting wood - Armourer in the forge - Carp. repairing the boats, and fitting the Ports. A few hands completeting the rigging - Sufficient supplies of Hogs, Plantains, Tarro, Cocoa Nutts & Avees or Vees - a few Yams and heads of new Breadfruit. - But very few Natives about us, they regard us with very great indifference so that we see no strange people of any consequence, nor The Sick List are only Venereals. It contains at the time 20. Four have been cured.
[Page 348] Remk Friday 15 June In Matavai Bay Light Easterly winds and calms the nights and mornings are generally calm with light land airs. - Employed as yesterday - Supllies sufficient, but I am frequently obliged to send people to Oparre & about these districts to purchase them - the Natives seem indifferent to any intercourse of trade with us. We have now scarsely twenty persons on board in a day, and not more who come to the Post at sundown to see the Marines exercised where we have had several hundred hundred since we have been here, and also many hundreds every evening of my stay at Oparre last voyage. Remk Saturday 16 June 1792 Light breezes Easterly in the day with land winds & calms during the night. - Employed cutting wood in the morning, better part of the day washing & mending clothes. Supplies more than we can use of every article except
[Page 349] Remk Sunday 17 June 1792 InMatavai Bay Light variable winds & calms - Therm from 72 to 80 degrees - on shore in the air 82 deg. Mustered the Ship's Company and saw them all cleaned dressed - Performed Divine Service - gave leave to a party to walk on shore. - Hauled the Seine but caught no fish. Tynah had a visit to day from some of the Tiarraboo People - they were of no consequence with respect to rank, but as is commonly There were several knock down blows between some of the parties before they grappled - My account last voyage of this exercise prevents my saying any thing particular of it, as I have not seen any thing new. -
[Page 350] Remk Monday 18 June 1792 Light winds at East & calms - Therm from 79 to 81 degrees - on shore 83 degrees at Noon in the shade Very sufficient supplies. - Employed cutting wood - making canvass coverings for the greenhouses on the Quarter Deck - Painting the Ship's stern & head - Armourer at the Forge. Our old friend Hammennemanne retruned from his tour around the island - Otoo the young King The plants are doing exceedingly well, which is a peculiar happiness to me, my time of sailing draws so near as to Our Sick List consists of 22 venereals.
[Page 351] Remk Tuesday 19th June 1792 Matavai Bay Light Easterly winds and variable with calms. The nights & mornings finely serene and clear. Therm from 75 to 80 degrees. Sufficient supplies - Employed at the Forge - cutting wood - Sailmakers making cover for the Green ouseson the Qrt Deck - Carpenters painting the Top Sides and cutting scuttles in the Cabbin Ports to give air to the plants when te Ports cannot be opened. - Wash & cleaned Ship. A tolerable sized chest was shown to me to day made in our manner by an Otaheitean - It was really a curiosity - the hinges were made of wood, the sides I was sorry to hear again of
[Page 352] But by this melancholy claim I am now perfectly satisfied the human sacrifices are common and very frequent. If a Chief or powerful man seriously offends the Erreerahigh he is obliged to obtain forgiveness by this
[Page 353] Remk. Wednesday 20th June 1792 Matavai Bay Light variable winds & calms. Therm. from 75 to 80. - Employed at the Forge - Carpenters cutting scuttles in the cabbin ports - Sailmakers making weather cloths for the green houses. - Painting the Ship & blacig the bends. - Hands wooding. - I went out to day to sound about the bay & towards Oparre - We found many corral banks & some dangerous places for a large Ship if coming in with a swell in the bay - Three & four fms were in several places of Tarrah towards the Dolphin. On my landing at my second station to take some bearings, I was seiged with a burning heat in my head & flushes in my face so that I could no longer support myself - I was
[Page 354] & I am
[Page 355] Remk Thursday 21st June 1792 Matavai Bay Fresh breezes and fair wr. At night land winds & calms - Wind East ESE - SSE Therm from 76 to 80 degrees - Employed cutting wood - painting the Ship - Sailmakers making covers for the green houses - Gunners employed Sufficient supplies of Hogs, Plantains, Cocoa Nutts, Tarro, Vees and an increase of Bread Fruit - All these articles are brought to us from a few people belonging to the District of Matavai & Oparre - About ten or a dozen Cannoes are all The want of Breadfruit has freed us very much from being infested with the flies - while that fruit is plentifull they are a plague to us for, as it drops from the tree when ripe, and the Otaheiteans take no pains to clear away the filth the swarms of flies which are I happily recovered from my fever, but remained oppressed with a dreadful head ach - I dare not about mid day expose myself to the sun - the shining of it upon any part where I am affects me in so violent a manner in my head that I cannot bear it - Before sunrise I bathe in the fresh water & return on board & after sun down take my walk so that in a few days I hope
[Page 356] Remk Friday 22nd June 1792 Ditto - Therm from 75 to 80 degrees - Employed as yesterday . - I found myself much better to day so that I was able to protract off my survey and examine & verify the soundings about this place. I continue to bathe in the river which before sun rise is remarkably cold & refreshing. - At intervals of ten days & a fornight we have fleets of 10 & 15 sail of cannoes passing & repassing to & from Teturoah - they bring a quantity of dried Boeto & other fish, which are considered dainties by the Otaheiteans, but by us not worth eating. - In the course of the night a thief found an opportunity to pass the Centinels & Officiers on guard at the Post, and take from out of the house a bag of clothes belonging to Lieut. Guthrie - It was a large quantity of dirty linnen to some amount. How the thief could have got it out and pass the Centinels is incredible. At what time it was taken away was not known, we could not therefore fix the neglect on any particular man. - The Guard has hitherto been 3 Centinels, one Corporal to visit them & see they do their duty, and a Midshipman to superintend - The relief is every two hours - I ordered another Centinel so that we have now four Centinels to prevent mischief.
[Page 357] Remk. Saturday 23 June 1792 Matavai Bay Moderate breezes and fair wr. Calms & land winds in the night - Wind EbN - EbS - SSE. Therm from 76 to 80 degrees. - Employed drying powder & Gunners stores. Sent a party to cutt wood - Sailmakers making hoses - washed & cleaned Ship. - Cooper repairing casks. - Afternoon all hands repairing their clothes. Very sufficient supplies and Breadfruit coming in season again. - I suffered vastly in m head to day I cannot bear the sight of the sun. In other respects I am tolerably well - before sunrise & about sun set I am able to see into all necessary duties & regulate all busyness on shore. - It gives me peculiar satisfaction to see my plants thriving - I have now once more with unnearied zeal & attention procured that great & vauluable object, and hope God will grant that my endeavours may
[Page 358] Remk. Sunday 24th June 1792 Very fresh winds at EbS and extremely hazy during the day but fair in the night. - Therm from 79 to 82 degrees. - Very sufficient supplies - caught 100 lbs of Fish with the Seine so that every man had Fish & Pork for his dinner - Mustered the Ship's Company My health much better to day. -
[Page 359] Remk Monday 25th june 1792 Matavai Bay Fresh gale at E & EbS and fair Wr. Therm from 77 to 81 degrees. - Sufficient supplies. - At dawn of day Lieut. Portlock set off for Attahooroo, & I sent Tynah down to Tettahah with Lieut. Tobin to try his success to get Mr Guthries clothes. - They returned with a report that the thief had gone to Attahooroo and that they were not able to get a single article which Employed getting chests out of the Ship to destroy the cockroaches - cleaning below & washing with boiling water to destroy the nests & haunts of all manner of vermine. - The Ship is very far from being pestered with cockroaches or any kind of vermine, but I consider it necessary to keep clear of them if possible & therefore have adopted this plan of washing with boiling water which destroys every offensive thing and becomes a salutory operation to the Ship in general. The operation is performed thus - The Coppers and all Vessels are got ready with the water. - A select number of People with Quart pots are stationed & on my giving the word every hole & crevise is so deluged that few Vermine escape. - The men are clothed with jackets to prevent being scalded, & the Ship for an half hour is a complete vapour bath.
[Page 360] Remk Tuesday 26th June 1792 Moderate trade winds EbS - Land wind SE at night - Therm from 77 to 81 degrees. Sufficient supplies - Employed as yesterday cleaning the Ship of vermin by washing with boiling water. - I first thought of this expedient when I commanded the Bounty. I recommend it as the most effectual & sure method of cleaning ships of contagious diseases if it be followed by constant airing with large fires. - A little before noon I had the pleasure to see Lieut. Portlock arrive from Attahooroo & with him the whale boat, which after some deliberation I was given up to him, altho not to the general voice of the People. Attahooroo is the largest county in the island - it is divided into two districts or chiefdoms. The Northermost called Ta,igh, was governed by Poohaitaiah (a) and the Southermost called Paterre was governed by Tettowah, men of great consequence when I was here in 1788, & in Captain Cook's time. The men are now dead & children are elected. Tettowah left a wife & son who naturally succeed to his power & influence but Po,ohaitaiah left no child
[Page 361] The endeavours of Tettowah's wife were seconded by a very clever fellow called Terraighte,erree his official capacity is that of a Priest & he had great weight among the people - On the boat being launched into the water Mr. Portlock made a present to the Chiefs which I had given him for that purpose. He relates that they received it with great eagerness as if they had known the value of iron without ever having had the use of it, and withall expressed a thankfullness which gave him Tettowah's wife they call O,wehee Vaheine a common name to women who have lost a husband. She is a stout good looking woman. I found a shyness about our friend Tynah & his wives to this woman & her party - He had bantered me the night before about my getting the boat, & I now in my turn laughed at him. I also made a very large present of valuable things to the strangers, and made a great deal of them, so that they were truly delighted. - The men drank freely of all our liquors and eat cheese and drank Porter. - All strangers ask what the cheese
[Page 362] is made of and it is a standing joke with our friends here to call it Teeappapow, (part of a dead body) - In the evening they all went on shore with Tynah who provided every thing for them. - O,wehee Vaheine eat nothing while with us, for no woman except Iddeeah & Whyerreddee will ever eat before me, & on shore as is their custom, they all eat apart from the men. - Oporeeonoo or Great Peninsula of Otaheite is divided into 12 counties under these names - Matavai, Oparre, Tettaha, Ta,aigh, Paterre, Papparah, Wyoo,reedee, Wyer,ree, Iddee,ah, Wha,ennah, Tierrai, Happyano. They sometimes place another between Papparah & Wyooreedee called Attee,mono. Those counties have different districts or Chiefdoms, each of those of Ta,aigh & Paterre is as large as any one county - There is however a mistake (b) in calling the whole Oporeeonoo, for I find there are three Grand Divisions which include the subdivisions as follows - under the Head of Oporeeonoo lie Oparre, Matavai, Happiano, Tierrai, Whaennah, Iddee,ah - Under the Head O'Taiwyyootah (a) lie Paparrah, Atteemono, Wyooreedee, Whyerree. - Under The Head Attahooroo lie Tettaha, Ta,aigh & Paterre. - Tiarraboo makes a fourth Grand Division under the Head Tev,vy,ty, and the whole land is called Taheite - Otaheite improperly, from no Taheite, of Tahaite the sign of the genitive case. - Tev,vyty is also divided into 12 counties. When the island was formed into these
[Page 363] Four grand divisions it was governed by one King.. I cannot consider it strictly so since I have known it. Each of the Divisions have a power which governs it independent of the rest - We have strong traits of it at this time. [indecipherable] The Division of Tevvyyootah The Division of Tevvyty has since our time been governed by one Chief of the name Whaeeah,tuah. This has been always the name of the person who reigned there, and as Terreetapahovai Tynah's son, has become heir to the late Whaeeah,tuah, he also has taken the name. The Division of Oporeeonoo is governed by Otoo, so that here we see something like three distinct Princedoms. I believe Attahorroo was a fourth - how it has happened to be divided I cannot get informed of, for by the division neither of the Chiefs altho allowed to be people of consequence, have the rank of the others, altho they
[Page 364] have governed their respective Chiefdoms with equal power. If it was not from the assertions of every one that Otoo was Erreera'high, - that no person else wore the Maro, or had th eye of the human sacrifice presented to him; I should pronounce it as a certainty that the island was divided into four Pricedoms totally independent of each other. To know the exact state of the government of the island it would require a person to be some time in each part of it - a just conclusion might then be formed, but the information of any one party is doubtfull and the strangers who visit them are cautious in giving intelligence that they may not offend. These are two words which the attach to the different subdivisions of the island - one is Manno & the other Matynah - Oparre & Attahooroo have each two Mannos, but all the others even Tiarraboo they say are Mannos but Matynahs. - The people of Oporeeonoo are Matynahs no Tynah - those of Tiarraboo are the people of Whaeeahtuah - Those of Terryyootah are the people of Tomarre & those of Attahooroo of Tetowah & Po,ohaitaiah - yet they say that the whole of them are Matynahs no Otoo - This certainly implies he is their King. Matynah signifies a set of people belonging and governed by a Chief, but I am at a loss to know what Manno means unless it is the place of resort or palace of the King. I conclude therefore that Otaheite is a Kingdom divided into four grand divisions or Princedoms. - Each of those are divided into governments & these are again subdivided into parts which may be properly called districts or circuits of inferior authority. - Corporations towns & villages. -
[Page 365] Remk Wednesday 27th June 1792 Matavai Bay Moderate breezes & cloudy wr. Wind. East Therm 77 to 81 degrees. - Employed overhauling chests & cloaths on shore to clear them of cockroaches and washing between decks with boiling water - kept fires in all night to air the Ship. - Employed some Carpenters repairing the Whale Boat - Sailmakers about boat sails. Sufficient supplies. Remk Thursday 28th June 1792 Mod. winds at EbS and calms in the night & morning - a heavy dew - therm from 76 to 81 degrees - Sufficient supplies but none to spare this day. - Our Attahooroo friends left us with a promise of returning in five days. - Employed in the after Hold - Began to paint the starboard side of the Ship, and paid the Bends with pitch and tar mixed - made nettings to cover the skylights of the plants and employed the Carpenters sawing plank and repairing the Whale Boat.
[Page 366] Remk Friday 29th June 1792 Matavai Bay Land & sea breezes at E & SEbS with calms in the first part of the morning - Therm from 75 to 81 deg. Employed repairing boats sails - repairing the Whale Boat, sawing plank - In the after Hold & Cooper repairing casks. - Sufficient supplies but obliged to send about the shore to purchase them very few being brought off to the Ship - No people of any consequence about us but Tynah & his wives who dine with me every day - I send the boat regularly for them at noon. - The plants are coming on remarkably well. I still remain in an uneasy state in my head & cannot bear being exposed to the sun so that my shore busyness I execute daily early in the morning & towards evening. - Remk Saturday 30th June 1792 Fresh breezes at EbN & ENE which always brings a swell into the bay - Therm. from 76 to 81 degrees on shore about 3 & 4 degrees hotter Employed in the Main Hold the first part of the day, afterwards the people had to themselves to mend and wash their clothes. Supplies as yesterday. Very few cannoes off to us, or about the Post. The Natives appear to care very little about us.
[Page 367] Remk Sunday 1st July 1792 Matavai Bay Fresh breezes & fair wr. with calms in the first part of the day - Wind EbS - Therm from 75 to 81 degrees. Washed & cleaned Ship - hauled the Seine & caught a few fish - mustered and saw every person clean dressed - Performed Divine Service - gave leave to a party to go on shore to walk - We have cannoes constantly passing and repassing in fleets to & from Tetooroah on every favourable opportunity. In one of them today arrived a boy, who in my last voyage I mentioned as being adopted by Teppahoo & Teranno, the Chief of Tettaha & his wife. - He was then a fine promising child, but is now diseased in the spine
[Page 368] Remk Monday 2nd July 1792 Matavai Bay Fresh breezes & fair wr. Land winds at night. Wind EbS - SSE - Therm 75 to 82 degrees. Employed in the Main Hold - Carpenters repairing the Whale Boat and lining & fitting the Posts - Amourer at the Forge making hinges for the Port scuttles. - Sent hands to Cutt Broom shafts - sailmakers repairing the boats sails - served tobacco to the people. Sufficient supplies but I am obliged to send people about the country to purchase hogs. - Breadfruit still continues scarce, but the trees have a very fine show of them about half & two thirds grown, & some we get perfectly fit for use. Plantains & tarro is the principal bread kind, for yams have been neglected among those idle people of Matavai & Oparre. - Cocoa nutts & fine apples we have in abundance, & I have not yet had a occasion to give my people less than one pound & a half of pork per day. With my usual visitors Tynah & his wives, we had a few inferior Chiefs from the East part of Oporeeonoo. As usual They describe the Jenny of Bristol as a miserable vessel & the Commander as a great rascal. -
[Page 369] Remk Tuesday 3rd July 1792 Matavai Bay Variable Westerly winds and calms. Ther from 78 to 81 degrees - on shore about 3 degrees higher - Supplies fully sufficient but obliged to send about the country for I had the happyness to day to see my plants so forward as to determine me to begin to fit out - I therefore began today to start the water we have & to take on board fresh. - Every other person fully employed, and I sent Mr Portlock to examine the bottom between this & Oparre which I have not yet accurately ascertained. A violent fit of head ach, with many things I have to attend to, confined me the latter part of this day - the pain I suffer when these fits seize me is beyond all description, happily when off I am in tolerable health, except a great contraction of the nerves in the left side of my face. In the beginning of June I observed all the Cloth Plants which were cutt down close to the ground, beginning to shoot, they are now grown a considerable height. I now observe various other proofs of the effect of Spring. The Avee trees are lossing their old leaves by new shoots, & several other trees that shed annually their leaves are
[Page 370] Remk Wednesday 4th July 1792 Matavai Bay Fair wr. and wind at East with calms in the first part of the morning & land winds at night which is commonly the case & a fine airs. - Therm. from 76 to 80 degrees. - Employed starting and filling water - Cooper about the casks - Carpenters lining & fitting the ports & scuttles & repairing the Whale Boat. - My friend Tynah undertook to go after the thief who had stolen the clothes from the post a few days since, for I find it was done by an inferior Chief of Tiarraboo ( afriend of his brother Orreepyah) It is astonishing with what indifference these people speak of death - it has ever appeared to me that they cared little how short their existence was, yet they are nevertheless afraid of the final stroke when by war or accident they have reason to expect it, while in disease they are patient and not alarmed. - They have no idea of a future state, but expect to fall into a degree of nothingness witout reward or punishment after life. -
[Page 371] Remk Thursday 5th July 1792 Matavai Bay Easterly winds with calms in the morning. Lightning at night & the whole day cloudy wr. Sufficient supplies by send on shore to purchase them - very few Natives about the Ship or Post. - My friend Tynah returned to day with part of the stolen foods - The thief fled into the most distant parts of Tiarraboo and escaped with the greatest part of the articles he had stolen. Some of the Matilda's men were round at Oaitaipeeah & brought back an account that a Leaguer & part of a yard & plank of the Matilda were drifted there. From the Captain's account of the shoal, it is distant 207 leagues from this place in the direction of S64° W Busily employed starting and filling of water. Carpenters about the Whale Boat. Received a launch load of wood. Hands sawing plank.
[Page 372] Remk Friday 6th July 1792 Matavai Bay Very cloudy, thunder and heavy rain all day - wind in squalls from west NW & NNE at times calm - Therm from 78 to 80 degrees The rain to day a very uncommon circumstance - it swelled the river to a great degree, only one turn of water could be got on board. - At day break we hauled the Seine & caught 550 lbs of fish all fine Cavallies weighing from 7 to 14 lbs each - every man had as much as he could eat, & I was able to make some presents to our Indian friends. - No Natives about us, but we have always three days supplies before hand, and an abundance for our use.
[Page 373] Remk Saturday 7th July 1792 Matavai Bay The heavy rain ended with the dawning of the day, the remaining part was attended with very heavy clouds light easterly winds & calms [Note in margin - therm 76 to 80 degrees] Employed repairing the Whale Boat - fitting up the cabbin to receive the plants - starting & filling water. - Some of our officiers to day were successfull in duck shooting, as they have frequently been in their excursions to Oparre. - They brought me an account that the Chief of Paparrah was in possession of many of my books, and brought me one volume of Dampiers Voyage - some remarks which I had written on it, with a pencil, in the blank pages at the end of the book were perfectly distinct. - I have sent a message to Tomaree the Chief that I shall be glad to see him - he has hitherto been prevented from coming by a dread of my not treating him well, & I have not been able to do away his fear. I attribute it to some underhand work of our friends at this place, who would consider him as a rival, and do not like him to partake of, the benefits they derive from us. My plants have received vast benefit from the rains & I hope in ten days they will be fit to be received on board, as I am now anxious about my time.-
[Page 374] Remk Sunday 8th July 1792 Matavai Bay Calms & light breezes at East the first part of the day, the latter pleasant breezes from the West. Therm. 77 to 80 degrees. - As usual we relaxed from work on this day - performed Divine Service, and permitted men to go onshore for their amusement - I suspected some of the Ships Company might be infected with the Venereal and not inclined to complain of it untill we got to sea, I therefore, after mustering them & examining their cleanliness both in person & dress, ordered them to undress and examination by the Surgeon - My surmise was not groundless, for I found two wretches infected with the disease & one of them kept a woman constantly with him. - The Boatswain & a Midshipman were the two offenders. - Otow & Oberreeroah came to see me to day from the alarm they had of the Ship's going away. These old people are now infirm. The old woman is obliged to be always hoisted up in a chair. They are happy in their children, who show them every mark of affection and respect, and their filial attention is such a blessing to the Old pair as delights us on every occasion. Very few Natives come about us, all in peace and quietness, but most of the Matavai People are still absent. Poeeno is however permitted to return. I never permit him to come to me on account of his behaviour to the Matilda's People, and
[Page 375] Remk Monday 9th July 1792 Matavai Bay Untill noon a very fresh gale at SWbW when it suddenly shifted to the East - the wr. fair but a considerable surf in the Bay. - Therm. from 77 to 81 degrees. Rec'd on board 5 turn of water & some wood - Carpenters employed about the Whale Boat - Caulking the Cabbin Deck & were ready to lay down the stands for the Plants - Amourer employed at the Forge & the Sail Maker making a sail for the Whale Boat. - We continue to get suffiecient Supplies by sending a Person on shore to purchase them. My plants are now in such I find our old friends very disconsolate at our preparations, and it has been with no small
[Page 376] trouble that I have resisted the sollicitations of Tynah to proceed to England with me - He has even considered himself slighted by my not permitting him, & our friendship hinged on my complying with his request to take one of his men, who he said would be of great service to him when I sent him out again from the many things he could learn & see in England. He was sure he said that King George would not refuse him had he been here, and after he had enumerated the many ways in which he had served us, & particular his conduct to the Pandora, and I had considered This man's name is Mydiddee, he is a fine active Person about 22 years of age at most, & is considered above the common run of men in all the exercises of this country - He exceeds most of them in quickness of apprehension, which is the first excellence next to
[Page 377] and therefore a more eligible person for the purpose of learning than if he had been a Chief, admitting his intellect equals - The school is common to all in this Country - there is no knowledge to be gained in the history of the Country but by tradition, and the only education being the company of the Chief and old People of distinction; wherever Nature has implanted good sense and a quick conception, the Individual, whether Chief or Towtow, becomes informed and well edcuated. Such a Towtow is more likely to benefit his country than a Chief who would be only led into idleness and dissipation as soon as he arrived in Europe, as was the case with Omai.
[Page 378] Remk Tuesday July 10th Matavai Bay Light variable airs & calms. Therm. from 76 to 80 degrees. - Employed starting and filling water - Carpenters about the Whale Boat and fitting up the greenhouse which by night was completed. - Plentiful My time now passes very anxiously - In the beginning of the week I think the
[Page 379] Remk Wednesday July 11th 1792 Matavai Bay Pleasant sea breezes from the East & land winds at SSE - Therm. from 76 to 78 degrees. Employed watering - staying the masts and setting the rigging up - reeving, running rigging and a variety of necessary duties in preparing for Sea. - Sufficient supplies. - My old Friends, the Otoo family particularly show their usual marks of concern at the approach of my taking leave of them. Tynah is almost disconsolate at being refused going to England, and old Oberreeroah his Mother has expressed a degree of grief which I have every reason to believe sincere. In the afternoon Otoo arrived from his tour which was shortened by the news he had heard of the Ship's sailing. A few of the Papparah People came round with him; but Tomaree refused to accompany him from a fear of not being cordially received by me - by some means he has been made believe I am not his friend. - I do not believe he has any confidence, even among his Oparre friends, indeed there is a certain distrust which hangs among these people that discovers Tomaree has certainly many of my books & papers, as I am informed by some of the Matilda's People he had the impudence to send me a message yes.
[Page 380] terday, that if I would send him cartridge paper he would deliver me a proportion of books for it. It appears that he is in possession of all the powder the Matilda's People brought on shore with them as well as the Arms, and he intends to make cartridges of the books As soon as Otoo came round to the Post I saluted him with seven guns which gave him a high degree of satisfaction & fed his pride not a little. On my going on shore a wrestling match took place amidst five hundred people, & it ended without any thing new. - As the last leisure moments I could bestow among them, I diverted the strangers with a few fire works at night The sacrifice I have spoken of a few days since is to be offered to Otoo to morrow & if I am well enough shall attend the ceremony. - [Note in margin - See 19th June] I bantered Iddeeah upon
[Page 381] Remk Thursday July 12th 1792 Matavai Bay Fresh breezes at East during the day & cloudy wr. Calm in the mornings & land winds at SSE at night. - Therm. from 75 to 79 degrees. Employed completing the Holds, stowing away wood - Bent all the sails - Carpenters about the Boats. Plentiful At day break the sacrifice which I have spoken of on the 19th June, was removed to a dble can At 8 O'Clock I set off from the Ship accompanied by Tynah Otow, Iddeeah, & Wyerreddee. The progress of the cannoe was so slow we got to Oparre before them, where we found
[Page 382] few People, but before the ceremony ended there were about six hundred. - Otoo received us on landing. - As soon as the cannoe arrived, Hammennee,mannee, the Priest, conducted us to the Morai called Tebboo,taboo,atai,ah. (I find this word is given to the Morai or Temple of Worship wherever the Etuah is brought - it means the Temple of their Great God. - At present it is at the enterance of Oparre Harbour) At this place he began a prayer and they all joined in invoking different Dieties and concluded
[Page 383] This supplicatory prayer being over, a grey headed old fellow, who I supposed had officiated in this office to many an unfortunate wretch, took up a large splinter of wood, and forcing it into the socket of each eye took out a mass of corruption which he divided & put on two leaves. - The Priest began another Prayer, in the course of which one of the leaves was put down on the Stones of the Morai, and the Operator standing before Otoo with the other in his hand, the Priest ordered him to present it to the King, who received it within four inches of his mouth, and at the sentence, Hammama,my gaped. - The leaf with what they called the eye was then put by the other & no care taken of them. - All this time their Etuah wrapt up in a piece of scarlet cloth was kept on a man's shoulders as well as the King, but they now retired to a small pavement or Morai which is called Tep,pah, here the Etuah & King was put to the ground, and the Marro being spread out the King was invested with it & had it put round him in the manner the common Marro's are worn round the hips - During this ceremony there was a pretty chant from the Priests - I had agreed to fire three vollies upon the occasion & Tynah told me that I was to fire
[Page 384] Erree, accordingly, as soon as the boy was invested they shouted Maivah Erree, (or long live the King - This is our acknowledged King) in a most piercing manner to the ear three & four times, I then ordered a volley to be fired from the boat & with their shouts it was repeated three times. - The boy was now taken on a man's shoulders as before, & with the Etuah Here the whole busyness ended & noise & feasting ensued, upon which I left The Marro since I last saw it was ornamented with some of the People's hair belonging to the Bounty - an ostentatious mask of their connectionn with the English & not of respect to the person it belonged to - It was a pretty auburn colour & they told me it was the hair of Skinner who was Barber to the Ship's Company. All men sacrificed to the Etuah are put into the Earth adjoining to the Great Temple or Place of Worship, but those who are sacrificed as an atonement to the King are buried under coral rocks where the water has access to them, or left to be devoured by the dogs. - The water burying
[Page 385] Remk. Friday 13th 1792 Matavai Bay Land & sea breezes, calms with small showers of rain in the morning. Therm. 79 to 81 degrees. Employed completing for Sea - Got every thing up from below, roused the cables up and washed the Ship with boiling water to kill cockroaches - This was our last arduous day Any appearance of
[Page 386] Remk Saturday July 14th 1792 Matavai Bay Light Westely airs & calms with some small showers o rain. Therm from 76 to 82 degrees. [Note in margin - Large Pots 459, Samall 230 Total 689] I began today to take on board my Plants and received 689 pots, most of which have two plants in them - scraped & greased the Top Masts and brought most of our Articles from the shore. - Abundant supplies. - Our visitors were numerous today and the Seamens Tyos brought them articles of provisions for their sea store - My Friend Tynah & his Wives brought me an abundance of bread Many of the Natives are desirous of going with us & have asked their friends to shut them up in their chests and in casks. Some of the Matilda's People have absented themselves with an intention of staying behind - this gives me no concern except My fatigue to day has been considerable.
[Page 387] Remk Sunday July 15th 1792 Matavai Bay Very squally wr. & heavy rains at times with the wind at West WSW and WNW. Therm. from 78 to 81 degrees. - Much surf in the Bay & swell. - [Note in margin - Pots of Breadfruit yesterday, large 459, small 230. To day large 246, Total 935, Vees 2, Total 937] The wr. to day prevented me from getting all my plants on board for it was rather boisterous & very much so at Sea. We however got off two pots of Avees and 246 pots of Breadfruit. This with loosing & drying sails & cleaning Ship, employed us very busily. Mahie for Sea Store, Cocoa Nutts & Breadfruit with a few hogs were our supplies from the Natives. - In the morning I struck my Observatory and finished my Astronomical Observations. - A large double cannoe arrived from Ori,aitai,ah (or Ulieteah as it is commonly called) about 15 Men came in her, Erreeoys. The had a shed or hutt in the middle of it which sheltered 6 or 8 persons. I am sure from the Sea they must have had, these vessels make better weather of it than we suppose is possible for them to do. To a great many of the middling rank of people I made my last presents, and, to numerous of the lowest class I gave others, that they might see I remembered with kind attention their friendly behaviour to us. Tynah & the Otoo family continue to show the greatest regret at our leaving them. - No strangers about us.
[Page 388] Remk Monday July 16th 1792 Matavai Bay Calms and light variable winds with some heavy rain - much swell in the Bay - Therm from 76 to 80 degrees. - Employed bringing the remainder of the plants on board and various duties in completing for Sea which kept us at work the whole day without intermition. [Note in margin - Pots, tubs etc Total yesterday - 937. Today - 344. Total 1281. Amounting to 2598 Breadfruit & other plants and 36 curiosity plants] No strangers about us but the Ulieteah Cannoe People, to the principal man I made a handsome present. - To old Otow likewise I paid my last gift & made it so truly valuable that the poor old man could not refrain from shedding tears of gratitude.- To the People in general who belonged to Oparre I also gave what was valuable to them, & in doing this; with my attendance to give directions & see the plants properly stowed, I suffered a vast deal of fatigue. By night the Ship was well filled & stored - besides the Cabbin I appropriated the Quarter deck abaft the Mizen mast & other places to the use of the plants, which enabled me to take 756 plants more than could be expected - a vast advantage. Before sun down I embarked my party amidst a concourse of People, who all regretted our leaving them, particularly Otoo, who poor boy cryed a great deal, & would not quit hold of my hand untill I promised to see him in the morning which I intended to do make him my last present - We saluted him with three cheers, & they returned us the compliment with great order. - Tynah & his wives with Oreepyah returned to the ship for the night. - Brought on board the Whale Boat in good order.
[Page 389] Remk Tuesday July 17th 1792 Matavai Bay Light airs from the Sea & calms with dark heavy clouds in the offin. Therm from 75 to 79 degrees. By day light we had a number of Cannoes round us, & by noon a hundred of them, which with necessary duties kept us in confusion in unmooring Ship. - The light winds we had & those from the Sea prevented me from getting out, I therefore steadied the Ship with a Stream Anchor after warping farther out into the Bay - Point Venus N35° E West Head of Tarra S26° W The River S80° E Ship in 13 fathoms. Moreah from S63° W to S87° W I thought I had nearly done with making presents; but I had a greater throng today than yesterday, - Most of the lower order of People begging for something to remember me, and I rewarded them all for their good behaviour. - All the Otoo family except the King were with me, but I kept back most of what I intended for them, politically. I regretted much not being able to get to Sea, our time however was well employed in many essential things respecting the Plants. I wrote letters of my proceedings to my Lords Commissioners of the Almiralty to be taken home by the first Ships, & I wrote to the Weatherheads People threatening punishment to them as Deserters if the did not join in the interest of the Otoo family. - At night as usual Tynah with his wives slept on board.
[Page 390] Remk Wednesay July 18th 1792 - Matavai Bay The wr. came clear today but we had such West & North winds untill 3 O'Clock in the afternoon that we could not sail - In this interval I had the West End of the Dolphin Bank buoyed & the East part of the next bank, for the deep water channel, as I was determined to tow out - At 4 we got under way and towed out into a fresh Sea breeze which was blowing about 2 miles without the Land. - Assistant in Company. - We carried 13 14 16 10 16 17 21 21 25 famthoms untill on a parallel with the North part of the coast & then had no ground at 35 fathoms. - Mustered the Ships Company. In the morning I went to see Old Oberreeroah as she was infirm & to take leave of her & Otoo - the latter was absent for a few hours, but to the Old Woman I made my last present About 9 O'Clock Otoo came off the Ship in a double cannoe & remained along side untill noon. - He would not come on board, I therefore gave my present to him from my boat. It consisted of shirts, printed linnen, large axes, knives, hatchets, toeys, scissors, nails, saws, beads and several other articles. They were all enumerated amidst a number of People, and very gratefully received. We parted with shaking hands & a promise exacted from me to come again to Otaheite. - The sea breeze appearing without, brought off every soul of our acquaintence - I had still numerous presents to make & I gave them with my warmest
[Page 391] regard & good wishes. - Tynah, Ideeah, Oreepyah & their servants, requested to be the last out of the Ship, by which means, as it blew very strong. When I got out in the breeze, I was under the neccessity of keeping them all night or risking the loss of my boat. This delighted the poor people altho they must have suffered great inconvenience from it. - We had marks both of respect & indifference in leaving this hospitable place. - This is the second time I have experienced their friendship & regard, and I have done every thing in my power to reward them. I can venture to say they are sensible of it. During the night it blew a hard gale of wind at EbS - our passengers however cared little about it. - [Note in margin - 19th July] At day dawn I made up my presents for Tynah and Iddeeah, and having stored them with an assortment of every article I had & iron work in great abundance, the whole was embarked, and I ordered them to be landed in Oparre. From the most earnest solicitation of our friend Tynah I gave him a Musquet & 500 rounds of powder & shot - It was the least I could do for him who had served us so well, particularly as his enemies would soon be about him with a superior force. During the absence of the boat we kept plying off & on. About 11O'Clock she returned & was hoisted in - it continuing to blow very hard we made sail under dble reefs, and at noon (a) Point Venus bore S85° E dist. 6 or 7 miles West Head of Tarrah S44° E 4 miles & the North part of Moreah N86° W Wind at East & therm 77 degrees - Served full allowance of grog. [Note in margin - (a) 19th July & here log account begins the 20th. 12 hours earlier than civil account]
[Page 392] To my astonishment I found a man (who had always been with the Botanists in collecting & taking care of the Plants) secreted between Decks. - The gale was too strong for me to beat back and land him, without much loss of time, when every moment is of the greatest consequence to me, and I had not a heart to make him jump over board - while I was debating in my mind what was best to be done, the The Chiefs parted very affectionately with Mididdee (a) he left them & his country without shedding a tear, altho a great deal attached to all of them. [Note in margin - (a) sometimes called Mydee] Tynah desired he could see King George, and hoped that a Ship could be sent out for him - his conversation in my Cabbin on the whole for the last quarter of an hour
[Page 393] as she absented herselfon having disobliged ynah. There is a most worthy and disinterested couple who live at Oparre - They are relations of Tynah. The man is called Moro,tarrah & the woman Toee,dooah. She is remarkable for her attention to us & real grief at parting, but my particular reason for mentioning her, is, she received the Matilda's People with warmest hospitality when they arrived after the loss of their ship. She is a well grown active woman - her husband is strongly infected with a scrofulous disease about the extremities. - The Matilda's People whom I have taken with me are Two others John Witstaff and James Gilbert are entered on board the Assistant by my order to Lieut. Portlock dated 9th April 1792 This day every received their allowance of liquor which I to be continued as customary.
[Page 394] I delivered p Captain Cooks Picture before I sailed, with a memorandum on the back, of the time of my arrival & sailing, & the number of Plants I had got on board, - it was however by mistake dated 16th for my time of sailing - The People of the Matilda who have deserted from me after having made application to be taken home are A person who I am informed was transported for life to Port Jackson & escaped in the Matilda, remains also on the island, but I could get no further information about him, that he was a Jew (a) [Note in margin (a) called Samuel Pollend] I have not entered & run the above men on my Supernumery list as they did not appear on board, but have left letters to the Commanders of Ships who may touch here stating their situation. This day includes 36 hours ending at noon on the 19th Civil account, when the 20th by Log account begins in my next log book. Ships draught of water after the Plants were on board & have short to the last anchor. Aft 16"9' Forward 15"9' By the Stern 1" Before the Plants were taken on board the Ship was only 3 inches by the stern, so that the weight of them brought her down 9 inches.
[Page 395] Recapitulation of Plants Breadfruit - 777 large pots, 313 small, 35 tubs, 26 boxes Total on board of every kind 835 large pots, 381 small ones, 39 tubs, 26 boxes Upon a moderate calculation we suppose the 1151 vessels of breadfruit to contain - 2126 plants
[Page 396] Lunar Observations taken at Matavai Bay with the excellent sextants of Ramsdens with which [Table of observations dated April 27 to June 19 not transscribed] In 1789 my last voyage I found the Longitude to be 210:33:576
[Page 397] Observations for determining the variation of the compass in Matavai. Each set is from a mean of the results taken with the sun shadow through each end of the vane [Table of observations dated 2 May to 2 July not transcribed]
[Page 398] Remk on the Time Keepers On my arrival in Matavai Bay, according to the Time Keepers errors and rates brought on from Adventure Bay. The Longitude of Point Venus was found by XT.K to be 210° 44':46,5. No2 209° 47':9. No 160 210° 40':00. Mean = 210° 23':58,5 XT.K slow for mean time at Point Venus 14:2:59,1 XT.K - 0:44,2 lost, By the following table it will be observed there was a great change in the going of the Time Keepers a few days after I began to establish their rates - This was occasioned by one of my young pupils, (in counting the time, while I was observing) overturning the stand the Time Keepers were on. I could not have believed the accident would have produced such an effect, as the box which contained the whole of them in their different cases, was prevented from falling to the ground or receiving , apparently, any violent shock
[Page 399] Time Keepers Errors and Rates found by Equal Altitudes of the Sun, in Matavai Bay at Point Venus, allowing its Longitude to be 210:33:44,6E [Table dated June 1792 not transcribed] The above errors from mean time, are at Noon at Point Venus, but the proportional part of their rates to the difference between Noon at Point Venus & Noon at Greenwich being applied their errors will be X T.K slow for mean time at Noon at Greenwich 2:23:50,5 With the above errors & rates I sail
[Page 400] Remk. For a description of Matavai Bay I refer to From the result of all my observations here on the tides I find it was high water at the full & change of the Moon at 49 minutes past noon - this was the mean, the extremes of which were from 0:13 to 1:35 which Equatorial or tropical tides are by no means regular among Islands in this Sea or considerable in their rise & fall, but within these limits in the neighbourhood of great lands, they become a necessary consideration with a Navigator - In my last voyage at Timor I found it high water at full & change at 11 O'Clock & the rise & fall 8 feet 8 inches - as the height of the Springs it was 9 feet six inches. [Transcribed by Bev Dalgairns for the State Library of New South Wales]
Remk Friday 23rd Septemb, 1791
1 Fresh breezes and cloudy weather
8 Fires all night to air the ship
4 Fine wr. out all reefs
8 Up all chests & bags washed and cleaned thoroughly every part below & dried with good fires.-
11 Set the lower rigging up caught a boneto.-
12 Light airs & fine wr. Assistant in Company & the French Brig lost [indecipherable]
My health begins to improve. Head ach not so violent, and my nerves less affected by noise.-
Remk Saturday 24th Sept, 1791
1 Light and fine wr. with calms
4 Cloudy
8 Dark cloudy wr. in 1st reefs
9 Fires all night to air the ship
6 Small rain at times
8 Cleaned ship People employed washing & mending their cloaths.
10 Fires below. Served bore cole 6lbs
11 Set studding sails rainy wr.
12 Ditto. Assistant in Compy. Lost sight of the French Brig.- No observ. My health as yesterday
Remk Sunday 25th Sept, 1791
1 Light airs & cloudy
4 Calm & fair wr. In studding sails & 1st reefs
9 Squally with rain
10 Fires all night to dry cloaths & air the ship.-
1 Calm with showers of rain
5 Mod. & Cloudy out reefs & set studding sails
6 Saw many flying fish
9 Squally with rain - in studding sails
10 Cleaned below & mustered the ships company.
11 Good fires to air the ship.-
12 Mod. with thick rain. Assistant in Company. Violent head ach & slight touches of the fever.- No obs.
Remk Monday 26th Sept, 1791
1 Mod. & cloudy
6 Squally with rain. A sail in the west
7 In 1st reefs
9 Fires all night as usual
10 Very rainy and dark squally wr. with lightning.
12 Constant rain in 2nd reefs a very heavy head sea.-
4 Mod. & cloudy out 2nd reefs
8 Squally & rain shortened & made sail occasionally.-
9 Up all wet cloaths cleaned & dried below with fires. served vinegar to the people, and Bore Cole &
11 Bonetos, Portuguese Men of War & some Oceanic birds & a bird of the gull kind.
12 Fresh breezes & open cloudy Assistant in Company.
Health as yesterday
Remk Tuesday 27th Sept, 1791
1 Fresh breezes and squally wr.
3 Rain.-
4 Saw a Man of War bird
7 Cloudy wr.
8 Fires all night to air ship & dry cloaths
12 Heavy swell from the Southward
1 Lightning
8 Mod. & cloudy wr. up all chests bags & washed & cleaned
9 dried with fires
11 tkd. Served bore cole 6 lbs
12 Mod. cloudy sun out only at times Assistant in Company. Swell from the southward.
Myself better to day not so much affected by noise.
Remk Wednesday 28th Sept, 1791
1 Mod. & cloudy wr. & much swell from the Southward
6 Squally with rain. Saw several Bonetos. Albecores & Flying Fish.-
9 Fires all night to dry cloaths and air the ship
12 cloudy wr.
8 Cleaned well below & aired as usual with fires.
10 Employed in making points and gaskets
12 Fresh breezes & cloudy with a slight degree of haze. Assistant in Compy
Remk Thursday 29th Sept, 1791
1 Fresh breezes and cloudy wr. swell from the Southward.-
3 Porpoises, Blue Petterals Petrels & some sheerwaters.-
4 Opened a cask of Pork N1118 contents 120 dble pieces
8 Fires all night to air ship
12 Clear wr.
4 Cloudy
9 Washed & cleaned below and dried with fires.-
10 Saw a turtle & several sharks
12 Pleasant wr. and hazy. Assistant in Company Myself getting better. -
Remk Friday 30th Sept, 1791
1 Pleasant weather swell from the southward.-
4 Saw a Man of War bird. Hazy wr.
10 Fires all night to air the ship
8 Cleaned below aired ship with fires Exercised marines at small arms
12 Hazy wr. but pleasant Assistant in Company. My health improving but a constant & severe head ach
Remk Saturday 1st October, 1791
1 Cloudy wr. Opened cask beef N1173 contents 66 dble pieces
3 Several Men of War Birds Some Petterals and Flying Fish
5 Condemned by Survey 3 Casks of Cheese Nett contents 446 lbs Five Casks of butter Nett contents 139lbs. Rec from Victualling Office Portsmouth
9 Fires all night to air ship.
4 Pleasant cool air
8 Squally with small rain at times air not sultry.
9 Several Men of War Birds and many fish.
10 Cleaned & aired below with fires
11 People mending their cloaths Served bore cole 6lbs
12 Light winds and hazy wr. air cool Assistant in Company. Health improving, but a constant severe head ach
Remk Sunday 2nd October, 1791
1 Light winds & hazy swell from the Southward.
2 Served slops to Ships Company
4 Many fish
9 Fires all night to air ship
12 Small rain
2 Cloudy
8 Fine wr. & pleasant breeze & air up all chests bags & every thing from below - washed & cleaned and dried with fires
11 Performed Divine Service
12 Fine wr. with a little haze. Assistant in Company.
I was so well to day as to be able to read Prayers.
Remk Monday 3rd Oct, 1791
1 Fresh breezes & hazy Swell from the Southward.
3 Caught a Boneto
5 Squally with showers
9 Fires all night to air ship
12 Cloudy
2 Squally with rain
8 Fresh breezes and hazy
9 Many fish cleaned and aired below with fires
10 Served vinegar Spruce beer one puncheon for this days allowance portable soup with bore cole and pearl barley for dinner, this being Banyan Day
12 Ditto. Assistant in Company The air is now free of extreme heat My nervous complaint less head ach continues. -
[ blank page ]
Remk Tuesday 4th Oct, 1791
1 Fresh breezes and hazy wr. Swell from the South
3 Many fish, Albecores Bonetos & Flying Fish Porpoises.
8 Cloudy Wr.
9 Fires all night to air the Ship
10 Fresh gale in 2nd reefs. Many luminous spots in the water.
8 Mod. & cloudy. Out reefs. Cleaned below and aired ship with Fires.
10 Some fish & many Portuguese Men of War
12 Fresh Gales & Squally In 2nd reefs. Assistant in Company. My Health continues to improve
Remk Wednesday 5th Oct, 1791
1 Fresh gale & squally
3 Many flying fish & Portuguese Men of War.
8 Clear night
9 Fires as usual to air ship
11 Squally
5 Fresh breezes out 2nd reefs
6 Saw a Man of War bird & several Oceanic birds
9 Cleaned & below with fires. Saw many porpoises & flying fish
12 Fair wr. Assistant in company
Remk Thursday 6th Oct, 1791
1 Fresh breezes and fair wr.
4 Saw a Man of War bird
8 Fires all night to air ship
2 Squally
5 Caught a flying fish
8 Dark cloudy wr.
10 Fair wr. Washed & cleaned ship & employed getting all spare sails ready for bending
12 Fine wr. Assistant in Compy. Violent head ach and at times touches of the fever. -
Remk Friday 7th October, 1791
1 Moderate & fine wr.
4 Some slight showers of rain
5 Many flying fish Portuguese Men of War
8 Fires all night to air the Ship
10 Squally with rain shortened & made sail occasionally
2 Lightning to the Southward
4 Very cool air altho the thermo so high sea covered with luminous spots.
8 Cleaned & employed as yesterday
11 Squally saw a tropic bird
12 Ditto & rain. No observation. Assistant in Company.
Remk Saturday 8th October, 1791
3 Squally & rain
3 Flying fish & some tropic birds
4 Pumps worked a half an hour & clean water let into the Ship.
8 Fires all night to air the Ship
12 fair wr.
6 Numbers of flying fish
8 Cleaned & aired below with fires washed all dirty cloaths. Issued clean hammocks & examined all bedding.
10 Served bore cole, & a pint of Spruce beer to the Ships Company. Krout every day as usual.
12 Fresh breezes & fair wr.
Assistant in Company.
Remk Sunday 9th October, 1791
1 Fresh breezes & fair wr.
3 Many flying fish & porpoises
8 Fires all night to air Ship
12 Many porpoises
4 Cloudy wr.
8 Squally with rain Cleaned Ship and mustered the people
9 Performed Divine Service
12 Fair wr. & strong breezes.
Assistant in Company.-
Remk Monday 10th October, 1791
1 Fair wr & fresh trade but a great head swell-
4 Worked the pumps a half hour as usual
8 Fires all night to air ship
7 This being Banyan Day gave the people as usual a dinner of Bore Cole, portable soup & pearl barley. And a pint of vinegar to each man.
10 Washed & cleaned thoroughly below & aired with fires
11 Employed fitting spare sails.
12 Fresh breezes & cloudy. Assistant in Compy
Remk Tuesday 11th October, 1791
1 Fresh breezes & fair wr.
8 Fires all night to air the ship.
8 Got all the cables on deck & Hawsers and washed thoroughly & cleaned underneath them.- Dried with fires
10 Many flying fish.
12 Fair wr. Assistant in Company.
Remk Wednesday 12th October, 1791
1 Fresh breezes and fair wr.
8 Fires all night to air ship.-
12 Clear wr.
5 Saw a Man of War bird
6 Cloudy
9 Cleaned & aired with fires in the cockpit as usual.-
12 Fresh breezes & fair wr. Assistant in Compy.
Remk Thursday 13th October, 1791
1 Fresh breezes and fair wr.
6 Shortened sail and set up the top mast rigging sent on board the Assistant to enquire how they all were.
10 Fine clear night
6 Squally
8 Fine wr. cleaned below & aired with fires
9 Served a Punch Spruce Beer to the People. - Saw a Man of War bird, and large flocks of others at a great distance.
12 Fine wr. Assistant in Company.
Therm in the air 75 Ύ
At the surface of the water 75 Ό
Remk Friday 14th October, 1791
1 Mod. & very fine wr.
3 Saw a brown booby
9 Fires all night to air ship
6 Saw a white Booby or Tropical Gannet
8 Washed below & dried with fires
10 Saw an Albetross.
11 Empl. Painting the boats
12 Ditto. Saw a sail in the SW.
Assistant in Compy.
Remk Saturday 15th October, 1791
1 Light winds & pleasant wrs.
2 Opened a cask of pork N.1029 Contents 120 Dble Pieces. -
4 Saw several brown Boobies
9 Fires all night to air ship
8 Cleaned ship & aired with fires. Served bore cole to the Ships Company.
11 Set studding sails
12 Fair wr. and hazy. Assistant in Company.
Remk Sunday Oct 16, 1791
1 Light air and fine wrs. Employed getting water to hand in the Fore Hold
3 Caught a shark and several dolphin
12 Wind variable to four points
8 Many flying fish
9 Mustered the ships company & saw every person clean.-
10 Performed Divine Service
12 Fresh breezes & fine wr. Broached a puncheon of spruce beer
75 Ό at the surface of the sea -
Remk Monday Oct 17th, 1791
1 Fresh breezes and very fine wr.
3 Flying fish & Oceanic birds seen
9 Fires all night to air ship
8 Saw a Booby
9 Washed & cleaned below served vinegar bore cole portable soup & pearl barley
10 Aired & dried ship with fires.
12 Fine wr. & a little hazy
Remk Tuesday Oct 18th, 1791
1 Fresh breezes & fair wr. with a little haze.
3 Saw several flying fish
4 Unbent the Jib to repair and get the Forge up.-
8 Fair wr.
12 Fires all night as usual.-
6 Saw a Grampus & a tropic bird
8 Cloudy wr.
9 Cleaned & aired below with fires.-
12 Squally with rain Obliged to shorten sail for the Assistant.
Remk Wednesday Oct 19th, 1791
[PM]
1 Fresh breezes & squally with rain
4 Cloudy wr. and fair
12 Following sea.-
4 Very cool air
8 Cleaned & aired below with fires
9 Employed at the Forge making awning irons for the Pinnace,- Hands working up [indecipherable]
11 A few tropic birds & Albetrosses.
12 Fresh gale & fair wr. under F F Mast T.G. and lower std sls.- The Assistant in Company, but occasionally obliged to shorten sail for her.-
Remk Thursday October 20th, 1791
1 Fresh breezes and fair wr.
6 Squally
8 Cloudy
12 Fires all night to air the ship
8 Mod. & fair
10 Light squalls fires in the cockpits to air ship. - washed & cleaned ship.- Armourer at the Forge.- In studding sails.
12 Fair wr. Assistant in Company. Broached a puncheon of Spruce Beer.
Remk Friday October 21, 1791
1 Mod.and fair wr.
3 A few sheerwaters
8 Fires all night as usual.-
12 Fine clear wr.
6 Fair wr.
8 Began to caulk the Quarter deck in the water way.-
9 Armourer at the Forge.
10 Dipped & washed a new fore sail to prevent its mildewing and bent it.
12 Light airs & fair wr. Assistant in Company.
Remk Saturday 22nd October, 1791
1 Light air & fair wr. and smooth water
8 Mod & fine night
3 Set fore top mast studding sail
8 Cleaned & aired below with fires.
9 Served bore cole to the ships company.
10 Armourer at the forge & carpenters caulking people mending their cloaths.
12 Fine wr. Assistant in Company. Saw an Albetross
Remk Sunday 23rd Oct, 1791
1 Fine wr. & smooth water
3 NNE
11 Fresh breezes in 1st reefs.
6 Out reefs
8 Cloudy & fair wr.
9 Cleaned & aired below with fires.
10 Mustered all hands & saw them clean dressed
11 Performed Divine Service
12 Ditto wr. & smooth water
Remk Monday 24th Oct, 1791
1 Mod & cloudy & very smooth water
3 Shortened sail for the Assistant.
8 Fair wr.
11 Heavy dew. a little swell from the SE
4 Set studding sails
7 Squally.
8 Mod & cloudy
9 Cleaned below & aired ship wth. fires.
10 Served vinegar, and broth as usual made of bore cole, pearl barley & portable soup
12 Broached a puncheon of spruce beer for the people.
Fair wr. & cloudy. Assistant in Company.
Remk Tuesday 25th Oct, 1791
1 Mod. breezes & fair wr.
3 Saw an Albetross
8 Drizling rain
3 Squally wr. In studding sails & 2nd reefs
4 In 3rd reefs fore TS
6 Saw some Grampuses Mother Careys Chicken & Albetrosses
9 Cleaned & aired below with fires.
10 Out 2nd reefs
12 Fresh breezes & cloudy wr. Assistant in Company
Remk Wednesday 26th Oct, 1791
1 Fresh breezes and cloudy wr.
3 Saw three Pintada Birds and some Albetrosses.
10 Mod. and a fair night
6 Dark cloudy wr.
8 Mod & cloudy
9 Up all chests & bags and washed & aired below with fires.
11 Armourer at the Forge
12 Sun out at times. Assistant in Company.
Remk Thursday 27th Oct, 1791
1 Mod. and close cloudy wr.
3 Small rain
5 Saw Pintada Birds Mother Careys Chicken & Portuguese Men of War.
8 Squally with Rain.
12 Fresh gales & cloudy. In 2nd reefs.
1 Fires all night to dry cloaths
8 Out 2nd reefs
9 Fires in the cockpits to air ship cleaned below.
12 Fresh gales and fine wr. Assistant in company.
Remk Friday Oct 28th, 1791
1 Fresh gale & fine wr.
3 Some Albetrosses
6 Squally with small rain
11 Mod. wr. Several luminous spots in the sea
6 Fair wr. Unbent the Main Top Gall Sail to repair and bent a new one.
9 Cleaned & aired ship with fires. Caulkers caulking middle deck sail makers rep.g M.T.G. sail Armourer at the Forge.
11 Broached a Punc Spruce beer
12 Very fine wr. & cool air Assistant in Company
Remk Saturday 29th Oct 1791
1 Fine wr.
11 Squally wr.
4 Mod and cloudy wr.
8 Tkd
9 Cleaned and aired below with fires. - As usual on this day people employed mending their cloaths. unbent the M.T.G. sail & bent the old one
12 Fair wr. Albetrosses & Pintada birds. Assistant in Company. Served bore cole to the Ships Compy as usual for their dinners.
Remk Sunday 30th October, 1791
1 Mod. breezes and fair wr.
2 Pintada Birds
4 Read the Articles of War and punished John Letby Quartermaster with 30 lashes for disobeydiance of Mr Impey (the Mate of the Hold) and the Boatswains orders, & for knocking down F. Barber the Boatsn. Mate who was ordered to send him to duty.
12 Several luminous spots on the sea
8 Washed & aired below with fires.
9 Mustered the Ships Company and saw them all clean dressed.
11 Performed Divine Service
12 Fresh breezes and fair wr. Assistant in Company
Remk Monday 31st October, 1791
1 Fresh breezes & fair wr. with a swell from the southward
8 Squally in 2nd reef Fore TS
12 Cloudy wr. & fresh breeze.
4 Out reefs & set fore T M studding sail
8 Cleaned below served vinegar to the ships compy. Bore cole pearl barley & portable soup.
10 Carpenters employed caulking the Gun Deck scrubbed a new M. S for to bend it
12 Fresh breezes & cloudy.
Remk Tuesday Nov. 1st, 1791
1 Fresh breezes & cloudy. A swell from the southward.
4 Unbent the Fore T. G. sail & bent the new one, after scrubbing it in salt water
6 Shortned sail for the Assistant
8 In 1st reef M & 2nd reef Fore Top Sail s The wind increasing & thick rain
12 Fresh gale. Fires all night to air ship
4 Heavy rain
6 In 2nd reef Main TS
8 Wind & rain ceased, and the wind shifted suddenly & the wr. cleared.
9 Up all wet cloaths cleaned and dried below with fires out reefs & set studding sails
12 Fresh gale & fair wr. Albetrosses Petrels Sheerwaters & Pintada birds.
Carpenters caulking Gun Deck -
Remk Wednesday 2 Nov 1791
[PM]
1 Fresh gales and fair wr. In studding sails
4 In 2nd reef Main TS & close reefed [indecipherable] top sail.
6 Albetrosses, Pintada Birds, Mother Careys Chicken. Bearing up for the brig occasionally
8 Strong gales and squally.
10 Very squally & gale increasing made the sig. to the Assistant to shorten sail and close reefed the top sails.
2 Down T.G. Yards & handed the Top Sails
4 Very hard gale. -
6 More moderate. Set top sails
7 Fair wr.
8 Cleaned and aired below with fires & got all cloaths & bedding up on Deck
9 Out reefs
12 Fresh gale & fine wr. Assistant in Company.
Remk Thursday 3rd Nov 1791
1 Fresh gale & fine wr. up Top Gall. Yards. & out reefs
3 Albetrosses, Pintada Birds, & Sheerwaters.
6 Rove a new tillar rope
7 Mod. & cloudy.
8 Fires all night to air ship
4 Light breezes and cloudy wr.
8 Fair wr. - washed & cleaned below & dried with fires.
11 Set studding sails
12 Fair wr. all sails set. Assistant in Company.
Remk Friday 4th Nov 1791
1 Fair wr. and cloudy.
3 A few Albetrosses & Pintada Birds
8 Fresh breezes & cloudy. Fires all night to air ship
6 Drizling rain
8 Misty wr. cleaned below & aired ship with fires. Scrubbed hammock cloths
10 Carpenters employed caulking the Gun Deck.
12 Cloudy wr. and bright intervals. Assistant in Company.
Remk Saturday 5th November 1791
1 Mod. and fair wr. Scrubbed all the peoples bags & examined their cloaths.
3 Albetrosses & Pintada birds & one of the Officers informed me he saw a Cape hen.
8 Fresh breezes & fair wr. with some light squalls
10 Fires all night to air ship
3 Drizling rain Albetrosses, Mother Carey Chicken, Pintada Birds & several large whales seen.
7 Parallel of Cape Town.
8 Fair wr. Up all chests & Bags and washed and cleaned every part of the ship. Dried afterwards with fires
10 Unshipd the Windlass & caulked under & about it.
12 Fair wr & hazy Assistant in Compy. All sails set. Served the last Punch of Spruce Beer to the People.
Remk Sunday 6th Nov 1791
1 Fair wr. and hazy
2 Whalers Albetrosses, Pintada Birds & Sheerwaters.
5 Bent the cables. Gave the people clean hammocks.
9 Squally & drizzling rain. Steered a point to the Southd to keep my latitude for Cape Town.
12 Fresh breezes & cloudy
3 Tried soundings 130 fath line no ground°
7 Caught a porpoise. Albetrosses & Pintada Birds
8 Very hazy wr. Cleaned ship
9 At ½ past 10 saw the Sugar Loaf Hill Table Bay S66E.
10 Saw many divers
12 Fair & very hazy wr. Lyons Rump S73°E dist 7 leagues. Lyons Head or Sugar Loaf S70°E Table Hill S61°E. The coast towards the Cape SSE
Remk Monday 7th November 1791. Table Bay
1 Fair and very hazy wr.
4 Shortened sail
5 Came to with the B.B. in 4 Ύ fathm. Veered away and moored open to the SE winds. The outer points of the Bay bore N40°W & N28°E. The extremes of Robin Island from N16W to North. The Table Hill S42W Lions Head S79°W and the church Steeple S50°W off shore 1 mile.
8 Found riding here three Dutch India men & two English whalers and a French Brigantine A French ship bound home.
9 Sent an officer to wait on the Lieut. Governor. The Governor being in Europe as we were informed by an officer who boarded us, as soon as we anchored, to enquire whether we had any epidemic disease in the ship.
1 From a message from Lieut. Governor Rhenius we were to exchange salutes in the morning.
6 Unbent sails and unrove running rigging & saluted the Fort with 13 guns which was returned with the same number.
12 Fine wr. Assistant in Company.
Remk my our own; but a few of them having embarked with virulent venereal complaints, it was necessary to do every thing to eradicate the remains. I directed a Tent to be fixed, & the necessary duties of the Ship to be forwarded; thus every thing being in a fair way, I set about the recovery of my own health, which was so much impaired, as to render every attention and care necessary to bring me again into a tolerable state to enable me to proceed to Sea.
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Rem. In Table Bay Cape of Good Hope Nov. 1791
Untill the morning fine wr. when we had very severe squalls & much rain, the day terminated as moderate as it began.
Sent People to Sick Quarters and Boats on the necessary duties of the Ship Received fresh mutton, greens & soft bread for the use of the Ships Company also wine
Moderate & fair wr. Employed in the holds & about the rigging sailed a French Store ship for Europe rec. provis. & greens
Very strong winds. Employed about the rigging & holds & the Carpenters caulking the Main Deck.
Fair wr. with fresh winds & calms. Ships draught of water for. 13:9 aft 15:9
Sent the old Main Sail on shore & fixed a tent. sent empty water casks on shore to be repaired & filled. Rec fresh mutton.
Fair Wr. & pleasant breezes with some calms Sent Cooper & Sailmakers on shore to repair casks & sails. Received mutton, greens & soft bread. Hands employed about the rigging. Artificers employed in caulking from the shore. -
Moderate wr. with light winds & some foggy wr. Swayed up the yards & top masts & set the rigging up Breamed the bends & tarred and blacked. Received on board fresh mutton greens & soft bread. PM artificers from the shore employ. caulking. Mustered the Ships Company.
Light breezes & pleasant wr. AM arrived a French Guinea man from Mozambique & an English whaler. Sent a tent for The Gunner on shore to dry the powder & to enable us to air the magazine. Five artificers artificers employed from the shore & our own People caulking as before. Employed in the holds & about the rigging. Fresh meat as usual
Fair wr. & moderate breezes. Received water on board. Am sent the powder on shore. Fresh meat greens & soft bread for the Ships Compy. as usual. Artificers caulking employed from the shore with our own People as before.
Fair weather with some rain. Artificers & our own Carpenters employed as before. Received on board water fresh meat greens & soft bread as before. Cleaned Ship.
Fresh breezes and fair wr. Employed in the holds stowing provisions Sailed the French Brigantine for the Isle of France. Artificers & our own Carpenters employed caulking & other duties of the ship as before.
Generally strong gales. Sailed a Dutch India man for Batavia. - Carpenters & five artificers from the shore as before. - Washed & cleaned ship in every part. Received fresh mutton greens & soft bread as before. Men employed in the holds.
Strong gales & fair wr. Carpenters & Artificers from the shore employed caulking & other duties. People employed washing and mending their cloaths Rec. mutton & as usual.
Strong gales & intervals of little wind. Dismissed Artificers from the shore but our own Carpenters still employed. Rec. on board water, fresh mutton greens & bread as before.
Light winds & fair wr. Carpenters employed caulking Rec. mutton & as usual rec. water.
Mod breezes with some squalls Began to paint the Ship Anchored an America Ship from the Isle de France homeward bound. Rec, fresh mutton & as usual. Carpenters employ. painting & caulking.
Ditto wr. with some small rain. Fixed the Observatory. Sent some hands to assist in repairing the Assistants sails. Rec. fresh mutton green & - Carpenters employed caulking & other duties
Light winds & fair wr. with some fog in the morning. Emply. painting & other duties Rec. fresh mutton & as before. Carpenters caulking.
Ditto wr. Rec. on board the powder. Scrubbed hammocks. Carpenters employed painting & caulking. Rec. fresh mutton & as before
Ditto wr. Struck the Gunners Tent Received on board flour. Washed & cleaned Ship & Cloaths. Received fresh mutton & as before. - Carpenters & Sailmakers employed on necessary duties.
Variable wr. Arrived the Pit Transport Capt. Manning for Port Jackson, last from Rio Janeiro 26 days. Anchored the Duke of Clarence from St. Helena. Rec. fresh meat as before. Mustered & saw all the people clean. -
Rem. In Table Bay Cape of Good Hope Nov 1791
Fair wr. and moderate winds. Anchored a French Ship from Marseilles & sailed a French Ship & a Brig with slaves for Martinique. Received fresh mutton & greens & wine for the People. Carpenters employed painting & caulking.
Rec. 10 barrels & 1 Hhd spirits.
Fair wr, with some calms. Carpenters as before & Sailmakers about the Assistants sails. Rec. on board water fresh mutton & greens & bread as usual. Sailed a Dutch India man for Batavia Washed & cleaned Ship.
Mod. breezes & variable with some calms. Examined all chests & bags & cleaned Ship. Rec. water - fresh mutton greens & soft bread as usual. - Carpenters & Sailmakers as before. Anchored a Dutch ship from Europe
Light winds & fair wr. Sailmakers Carpenters & Cooper empl. As usual. Sailed an American ship for Boston. Anchored French Frigate from the Mauritius.
Mod. & cloudy with some rain Sailed the Ship Chacer Capt. Lloyd on the Whale Fishery sent letters by him. Hands employed as before & receiving sea stores on board. 1254lbs of raisins 1680lbs of krout
Fresh gales & very squally wr. Anchored an English Whaler. Anchored a French Ship & sailed another with slaves for the Isl. Martinico. Fresh meat as usual. Carpenters as before
Strong gales & squally wr. Got up every thing from below & washed in every part of the ship.
Fresh gales & squally wr. Set up the lower rigging other duties as usual, & recd. Fresh meat greens & soft bread
Ditto wr. & some very heavy squalls Carpenters Sailmakers & Cooper employed as before. Recd. Fresh meat & as usual sailed two French ships.
Ditto wr. & no boat able to pass from the ship.
Ditto wr. Recd. Fresh meat & [indecipherable] - People employed as necessary Towards noon moderate and some small rain
Mod. & fair wr. Struck the tent. Washed and cleaned ship & recd. fresh mutton bread & greens as usual.
Mod. & fair wr. with fog in the morning Carpenters Sailmakers & Cooper up & completing their work.
Ditto. Up all chests bags & bedding & washed thoroughly all over the Ship. - Rec & as usual Carpenters Sailmakers & Cooper empl as before
Rem. In Table Bay Cape of Good Hope Dec 1791
Fair wr. and hazy. Carpenters, Sailmakers & Cooper employed on their necessary duties. Rec. fresh mutton, soft bread & greens & wine as usual. Bent sails arrived a Dutch ship & two French ships. Sailed an English whaler - A French frigate for the Isle of France. Ships draught of water forward 14:6 [aft?] 15:6
Fair wr. & some calms. Washed & cleaned ship fore & aft. Employed as yesterday.
Ditto. Caulkers & Sailmakers employed as before. Exercised at Small Arms. Received fresh mutton & etc. as usual.
Hard gales. Received fresh meat & as before. - Carpenters Sailmakers empld. As usual.
Fresh gales & fair wr. Loosed sails to air. Arrived an American ship Philadelphia bound to Bengal. Rec. fresh mutton bread & greens as usual. - Caulkers & Sailmakers at work as necessary
Fair wr. & fresh winds. Sailed a Dutch Ship for Batavia. Sent the Cutter to an English Brig coming into the bay, which proved to be Captain John Hunter & part of his Officers & Crew late of the Sirius from Port Jackson, which they left 27th March arrived at Batavia the 27th Sept - & sailed from thence the 20th October in this Brig snow hired at 300£ per month & called the Wakesomehead. Sent for water & rec. fresh mutton & as usual Arrived a French ship. All ready for sea
Fresh gales & squally got up all chests & bags and washed the ship fore & aft. Sent assistance to Captain Hunter. All ready for sea
Ditto Issued clean hammocks & washed dirty ones. - The Wakesomehead proves to be so bad a sailor that we have not yet been able to get her into safety Rec. fresh mutton as usual.
Hard gales which obliged the Wakesomehead to cut from her anchors & go to sea My launch saved herself at Robin Island. arrived an English Whaler Ships draught of water forward 14:5
15:6
Rem. In Table Bay Cape of Good Hope Dec 1791
Moderate & fair. Sailed a French Ship Unmoored ship Received fresh mutton & & as usual and completed our water.
Ditto. The snow Wakesonehead again appeared off the Harbour I made signals for assistance, & fired 22 guns before I could get off an Anchor & Cable which I had directed to be ready to be carried on board her. Towards sun down I got all boats to her assistance & saw her safe moored. I now only waited a favourable moment to proceed to sea.
The supplies I have taken in here are as follow
2705 lbs of Bread
1254 lbs of Raisins
708 lbs of Sugar
1608 lbs of Krout
8533 lbs of Flour
868 lbs of Rice
458 gall. Brandy
2060 ½ gall of Wine
3800 lbs Mutton
60 bushel Calivances
8075 lbs Biscuit.
Our daily victualling was fresh mutton soft bread and abundance of greens.
Astronomical Observations
Remarks at the Cape of Good Hopegreat
considerable space and has the benefit of garden grounds.
The country however at first sight does not intimate that the inhabitants, can reap such advantages, for its soil is extremely sandy, is has nevertheless in some places such a mixture of a kind of clay, as effects all the purposes of producing corn and charming vineyards. The droves of Horned Cattle, sheep, goats, horses and quantity of poultry denote plenty if not opulence. for how far they can turn their stock into cash I cannot say, I believe rather at an extremely low rate. They have settlements so far as 300 miles up the country - The roads are in general so sandy as to render travelling in windy weather only bearable in covered waggons, and in some places are exceedingly deep. And heavy.
Their oxen are the most swift in labour of any in the world. It is common to see eight of them driven full gallop with a waggon managed by the lash of the whip.
Partridges snipes and wild ducks are the common game of this country, beside other fowl peculiar to it. About the hills are a number of deer and Ostriches.
The (a) Madeira Wine of this country is equal to any in the world, but it is only at some of the oppulent farmers houses that the best is to be procured. of this quality it is as superior to Constantia as Constantia is to common Malmsey The different kinds of grape produce as many sorts of wine, so that little can be known of what is the produce, by the common term of Cape Wine. But the superior part of the country for vineyards is an extensive flat called the Pearl. It has a considerable rock on a hill which bears a resemblance to the longitudinal section of a pear, more than a pearl from whence it is said to derive its name. an immense rock of the same stone lies adjoining to it, with a narrow pass between the two. - This pass leads into a deep valley, and on the opposite side is another mass of stone one side of which is buried in the slope of the hill, - its base lying far below the other two, renders it not so remarkable. I saw a hundred large baboons on the side of it basking in the sun.s sition of two of these form a small cave or arched way, where travellers eat the ir little repast they bring with them, and mark their names. - The wood about these
Hills is in general small, some of it grows out of the solid rocks, - the stones however being friable it is not so curious the phenomenon is not so remarkable as at Timor and islands near it where trees grow out rocks hard as flint. In A note in Cooks last voyage P45 Vol 1 points out a want of observation of Kolben & De la Caille. I attribute this to Dr. Anderson s calling the Pearl the Tower of Babel which it is not. The Tower of Babel lies a few miles from it, and as De la Caille says, is un tres bas Monticule". Mr. Sonnerats description of the Pearl is less accurate, instead of its being one of the highest mountains in the neighbourhood of the Cape, he would have been nearer the truth to have said it was among the smallest. It is part of the country the least remarkable when seen at a trifling distance, the rocks appearing like two small hillocks. had remarked it for anything, it was from the appearance of being formed by art.
The houses here cannot be said to form a town, being too far apart. Grapes alone are cultivated here, for the land will not grow corn with equal advantage to the Farmer, yet they consider their estates more valuable than at Stellinbosch, - It produces also a pernicious herb that destroys in the course of 6 or 12 months their Horned Cattle, - As they do not for that reason keeps cows, they have neither milk nor butter, but as a succedaneum for the latter they eat grease. like as also that of Stellenbosch, is governed by a Chief Magistrate who refers to the Cape Town all cases of Life & Death, and some others of consequence. with which I sailed
When this wine was bought into town, I lodged it in a Store House to be ready for shipping but to my surprise, when I sent it to the wharfs it was not permitted to be carried on board.
I complained of this to Lieut. Governor Rhenius, but could get no redress or permission to get my wine off, except by paying the Duties, for a law of the Cape forbids wine or spirits being sent on board ships purchased by private contact of the Farmers being sent on board ships if such wine or spirits is put into a Store House in the Town for one night. This law is in favour of the Wine Mechants, who supply the drive bring his wine or brandy to Town; but at other parts of the year he may ship it off, paying 3 Spanish Dollars to the Company and 5 to the Pacter for every league. This Pacter is another exactor (by permission) from the Farmers who want to dispose of their property.
I was much obliged to a Mr. Breddau who lives near the Table Hill for plants he gave to us, - I took about 240 from him, that we might not only propagate them where we were likely to touch at , but to give the gardeners information of the treatment necessary on board of ship.
In this Gentlemans garden is the thing best worth seeing of any at the Cape Town. It is a beautifull spring of fine water from whence it is supplied.
I left with Mr. Brandt 3 nectarine trees which I was told are the only ones ever seen in that country. They were a present sent out by Sr. Joseph Banks. to him how to proceed.
December 20th 1791e arated from me. I shall not go to the Southward of 40 Degrees South in our way to Adventure Bay, (which you are to consider as the first place of rendezvous) until I get on a meridian with the west side of New Holland, unless the wind obliges me. I will wait for you in Adventure Bay ten days should a separation be the cause of my being there before you.
I will leave a bottle with a letter in it on Penguin Island covered with stones on the part nearest the main, and cut some memorandum on a tree near the rivers mouth towards the sea. Should you get there before me. Stay the same time and do the like.
Your most Obed.
Very Hble. Servant
Commander of the Assistant
[PM]
1 Light variable airs & calms
2 Arrived His Majestys Sloop Swan Captain John Elphinstone informed me the cause of his touching here was his being in want of water. He was bound to Madrass with dispatches.
5 I sailed & saluted the Fort with 15 guns which returned with the same number Cheered Captain Hunter & the Swan cheered us. The wind being doubtful to the South of Robin Isl. I steered out to the Northward of it to get to sea.
7 At ½ past 7 the extremes of the land from NbE to SbW Ύ W Robin Island
9 SbEΎE 3 or 4 leagues. Table Land SbE
1 Fresh gales & very great head sea. In 3rd reef M.T.S & 4th Reef fore TS
5 Table Land SEbE ½ E about 12 Leagues
8 Fresh gales & cloudy wr. Saw a French ship on a wind.
10 More mod.out a reef of each TS. Cleaned below
12 Fresh gales & hazy wr. Assistant in Company. Served wine.
1 Fresh breezes & fair wr.
4 Muster the ships Company
5 ordered fresh water to be let every afternoon into the ship & the pumps worked to sweeten & keep the hold free of bad air. This has been generally done throughout the voyage.
8 Tkd.
5 Out all reefs
6 Saw two whales
8 Got all chests, bedding & cloaths up from below & washed & cleaned the ship fore & aft.
12 Fine wr. Assistant in Compy.
Remk Sunday 25th Dec 1791 Towards Van
1 Fine wr.
4 Saw the Table Land ENE
7 The land near the Cape bore S77E dis 38 miles and the Lyons Head in Table Bay N67E dis 57 miles, - allowing them to lie North and South of each other 34 miles in lat
10 At 8 In 1st reefs
4 Mod and fair wr.
8 Mustered the Ships Company & saw every person clean dressed.
10 Performed Divine Service
12 Ditto wr. Assistant in Company
Served fresh mutton to the people for their Christmas dinner
Remk Monday 26th Dec 1791 Diemans Land
1 Mod & fair wr.
7 In 1st reefs. Tkd
12 Tkd.
8 Scrubbed all hammocks & washed & cleaned below.
12 Fresh breezes & fair wr. Assistant in Company. -
Remk Tuesday 27th Dec 1791 Towards Van
1 Fresh breezes & fair wr.
3 Punished James Coates with one dozen lashes for neglect of duty
8 Fresh gale
3 Light rain
6 Scrubbed hammocks
8 Sea rising in 2nd reefs on account of the Assistant.
9 Cleaned below. Saw a shark, porpoises & Albetrosses
12 Fair wr. with a fresh gale. Under dble reefs.
Assistant in Compy. All sails but T.G. Sails.
Remk Wednesday 28th Dec 1791 Diemans Land
1 Fresh gale. Shortned sail, hove to & sounded with 185 fm of line but got no ground.
4 Out 2nd reefs
8 Much swell from the SW.
10 A very confused sea. Hove to & tried soundings with 120 fm. Of line but got no ground.
2 Light winds & very confused sea.
4 Saw a ship ESE
8 Set fore T.M. & lower studding sail
9 Cleaned below. some Albetrosses & Sheerwaters.
Unbent the cables
12 Fresh breezes & fair wr. & great swell from the westward. Assistant in Compy. & strange ship NE 3 leags.
Remk Thursday 29th Dec 1791 Towards Van
1 Moderate & fair wr. Swell from the westward.
12 Light winds
4 Set royals & all studding sails
6 Unbent the main top sail & bent the old one
8 Washed & cleaned ship fore & aft, and exercised the boats crew at small arms. -
10 Unbent the fore sail & bent the old one.
12 Light breezes & fine wr. Assistant in Company No sight of the strange sail.
Remk Friday 30th Dec 1791 Diemans Land
1 Light breezes and fine wr.
2 Exercised at small arms opened cask pork No. 1067. 121 dble pieces
4 Saw some flying fish
8 Light airs great swell from the SW
6 Fresh breezes and fine wr.
8 Cleaned below & exercised at small arms.
12 Fine wr. & pleasant breezes. Assistant in Compy.
Remk Saturday 31st Dec 1791 Towards Van
1 Moderate breezes & fine wr.
3 Exercised marines at small arms
3 Drizling rain
8 Cloudy wr. Saw Bonetos
9 Cleaned below exercised great guns
Carpenters caulking the Quarter Deck
12 Fair wr. Assistant in Compy.
Remk Sunday 1st Jan 1792 Diemans Land
1 Fair wr. Exercised small arms
2 Employed caulking the Quart. Deck.
4 Cloudy. Some Oceanic birds, Bonetos & Albecores Flying Fish.
10 Wind freshening. In 1st reefs.
1 Thick cloudy wr.
2 Squally & some rain
6 Thick rain
8 Fresh gales & fair wr. clean below
9 In 2nd reefs and handed Mizen T.S. to enable the Assistant to keep way with us.
11 Performed Divine Service
12 Ditto Assistant in Company.
Remk Monday 2nd Jan 1792 Towards Van
1 Fresh gale & cloudy wr. Swell from the SSW.
3 Porpoises seen Albetrosses - Petrels & Mother Careys Chicken
6 Cloudy. Out 2nd reef Fore T.S. and set studding sails.
7 Fair wr.
8 Washed & cleaned Ship, and exercised boats crew in small arms. Carpenters caulking the Quarter Deck
11 Served slops & tobacco
12 Fresh breezes and fair wr. & a sharp airs. Assistant in Compy.
Remk Tuesday 3rd Jan 1792 Diemans Land
1 Fresh breezes and fair wr. Swell from SW.
2 Exercised great guns & small arms
5 Light winds
9 Very heavy swell & Ship rolling very deep.
4 Moderate breezes set studding sails
8 Fair wr. & a continuance of the swell
Cleaned Ship & exercised boats crews at small arms. - Carpenters caulking the Quart. Deck
12 Fresh breeze & fair wr. Assistant in Company. a continuance of the swell. All sails set
Remk Wednesday 4th Jan 1792 Towards Van
1 Moderate breezes and fine wr.
3 Exercised great guns & small arms. Saw some Albetrosses and Sheerwaters
8 In Royals & T.G. steering sails
12 Cloudy wr. & fresh breezes.
5 In steering sails passed a Spar like a steering sail boom
8 Strong breezes & cloudy wr.
9 Cleaned below. Exercised small arms.
12 Thick cloudy wr. & spitting rain Assistant in Company. no observ.
Remk Thursday 5th January 1792 Diemans Land
1 Fresh breezes and thick cloudy wr.
4 Squally with spitting rain & a fresh gale. In 2nd reef M. T.G. & 3 reef Fore T.S. & handed Miz. T.G.
6 Pumps worked to keep the ship free of bad air
8 Lightning in the SW.
11 Lightning & thunder some rain.
1 Moderate
3 Out 2nd reef Fore T.S.
7 Out all reefs
8 Fresh breezes and fair wr - washed & cleaned below. Exercised boats crews at small arms.
10 Served sour krout & vinegar to the Ships Company as usual.
12 Fair wr. A few Albetrosses & small blue Petrels about.
Assistant in Company, but we spare her our steering sails. -
Remk Friday 6th January 1792 Towards Van
1 Mod. & fair wr. Set Steering Sails. We find that going above 6 knots we sail faster than the Assistant and when the wind will not carry us that, she sails better than we
6 Spoke the Assistant found all well. Pumps worked to keep the ship free of bad airs.
5 Mod. & cloudy
6 Some Oceanic birds about. Swell from the WSW. -
7 Broached a Cask of Beef N.1327 contents dble pieces
9 Saw some whales with one blow hole
10 Exercised great guns & small arms. Cleaned below & served sour krout to the people.
12 Mod & cloudy wr. got but an indifferent observation Assistant in Company. Swell from the N & NSW
Remk Saturday 7th January 1792 Diemans Land
1 Moderate breezes & cloudy wr.
3 Exercised great guns & small arms
4 Swell increasing from the WSW
7 Squalls of light rain. In T.G. & main T Mast steering sails
10 In Fore Steering Sail
11 In Fore Top Mast ditto
2 Wind increasing. In 2nd reefs.
4 In 3rd reefs
8 Strong gales and fair wr. with much sea close reefed the T.S. & got down T.G. yards. A sea broke in the larboard quart. Gallery.
10 Cleaned and dried below & got all wet cloaths on deck to dry.
12 Ditto. Assistant in Company & & makes very good weather of it.
The Dutch speak of an Isl. Called Nachtegal in the Lat. 40°:40S & nearly in the Longitude of 54°:00E
Remk Sunday 8th Jan 1792 Towards Van
1 Strong gale & fair wr.
2 Sheerwaters & Albetrosses.
4 Worked the pumps as usual to keep the ship free of bad air.
7 Gale moderating made more sail.
1 Mod & cloudy
3 Up T. Gall Yards & made all sail.
8 Fair wr. & pleasant air Saw birds as usual.
10 Cleaned Ship & having mustered the People & saw them clean, I performed Divine Service. Served krout
12 Ditto. Assistant in Company. All sails set Swell from the SW
Remk Monday 9th January 1792 Diemans Land
1 Fresh breezes & pleasant wr. Shortened sail Lieut. Portlock dined with me His people all well & ship in good order.
6 Pumps worked as usual Lieut. Portlock returned to his Ship
8 Cloudy wr.
11 The sweet wort is made by boiling water on ground malt, at the rate of four to one, in close vessel which is kept tight stopt untill it is cool enough to drink. It is only necessary to break the malt by passing it through the milk.
8 Fine wr. washed and cleaned Ship new lashed the booms. Began to serve sweet wort one pint per man. Served krout & vinegar. Set the Carpenters to repair the Jolly Boat.
12 Fine wr. All sails set. Oceanic birds as usual & a Cape Hen was reported to be seen. - Assistant in Company. Swell from the SW
1 Fine wr. All sails set.
4 Very cloudy. Some Albetrosses & Mother Careys Chicken.
6 Let water into the Ship & pumped it out as usual to air Ship.
10 In Royals & T.Gall steering sails
4 Squally with light rain
5 Fair wr. Set T.G. steering sails & Royals
8 Shortened sail for the Assistant. Cloudy wr. Served krout & sweet wort.
9 Cleaned below.
10 Dble reefed the Top sails.
12 Fresh gale & dark cloudy wr. Assistant in Company. Swell from SW
Remk Wednesday 11th January 1792 - Diemans Land
1 Strong gales and very squally close reefed the TS and got down TG Yds.
3 Albetrosses small blue Petterals & Sheerwaters
6 Handed Mizen TS
8 A continuance of the gale I ordered a good fire to be kept in all night to air the Ship.
7 More moderate & a cold dry air. Out one reef of each TS & set Mizen TS.
8 Cleaned & dried below with fires & served sour krout & sweet wort as yesterday.
12 Fresh gales & fair wr. with a cold dry air. - Albetrosses & birds as usual;. Great swell from SW
Assistant in Company. -
Remk Thursday 12th Jan 1792 Towards Van
1 Fresh gale & fair with a great swell from the WSW & SW
4 Made more sail. Let water into the ship and pumped it out as usual to ventilate the Hold.
6 Albetrosses, large brown Sheerwaters & small blue Petterals.
7 A large whale.
9 Fires continued all night to air ship. I consider this of all things the most conducive to health.
12 Mod. & fair wr. Up T.G.Yd. -
4 Gale increasing In 2nd reefs.
6 Albetrosses - Sheerwaters & small blue backed Petterals & Mother Careys Chicken.
8 Squally & a long heavy sea from the SW which at times rolls us gunnel to.
10 Cleaned & dried below, and at 10 oclock I attended & gave every man & Officer a pint of sweet wort, or infusion of malt.
12 Strong gale & fair wr. with a high sea from the SW Ship rolling very deep.
Assistant in Compy.
Remk Friday 13th Jan 1792 Diemans Land
1 Strong gale & fair wr. Ship rolling very deep & taking water over the Gunwales
3 Several seas came into the Cabbin & did some injury to the Plants which I have from the Cape.
5 Let fresh water into the ship and worked the pumps as usual.
8 Squally. Close reefed the Fore & Miz T.S. and directed good fire to be kept in all night to air the Ship.
2 Some rain in the squalls the sea now runs fair.
4 Gale moderating made more sail
8 Fair wr. I gave the people portable soup mixed with their burgoo for breakfast. Served krout as usual & at 11 oclock a pint of warm sweet wort to every man & Officer-
11 Made fires below & cleaned and aired ship.
12 Fresh gale & fair wr. Under all sails. A few Oceanic birds about.
Assistant in Company.
Remk Saturday Jan 14th 1792 Towards Van
1 Fresh gale & fair wr. but a continuance of a great swell from the WSW & SW.
3 Carpenters empld repairing the small Cutter
5 Let fresh water into the ship and worked the pumps as usual. -
11 Fires all night to air the ship.
4 Mod & fair wr.
8 Thick misty wr. & fair intervals. Washed & cleaned below dried all parts with fires
9 Served krout as usual & a pint of warm infusion of malt (or sweet wort) to each Officer & man
12 Ditto wr. Assistant in Company. royals & all sails set No noon Obs.
Remk Sunday 15th January 1792 Diemans Land
1 Fresh breezes & fair wr. Swell from the WSW.
2 saw three whales. Unbent the Main Top Mast Stay sail to repair.
4 Fine pleasant wr. Let water into the Ship & worked the pumps as usual.
9 Fires all night to air the ship. A very heavy dew.
11 Note On the 2 Jan I found the Time Keepers to be less than observation. On today for I could get no other, the Time Keepers are more than observation Hence I infer the mean of the Time keepers to give less Long than the [indecipherable] by
8 Cloudy wr. Served krout sweet wort
9 Mustered & saw every person clean and performed Divine Service.
10 Fine wr. Blue Petterals & Sheerwaters.
12 Assistant in Company. - All sails set.
Remk Monday 16th January 1792 Towards Van
1 Fair wr.
4 Cloudy. Saw a whale a blue shark some bonetos & Oceanic birds.
10 Heavy dew
12 Fair wr. & fine night
8 Generally cloudy. Examined all bedding & gave clean hammocks.
9 Served vinegar sour krout, and bore cole mixed with portable soup and oatmeal for their dinners. I likewise ordered thick gruel & portable soup for breakfast.
11 Served sweet wort at 11 oclock.
12 Fresh breezes & cloudy with fair intervals and the sea smooth. A few Oceanic birds.
Assistant in Company with all sails set, but we are obliged to shorten for her.
Remk Tuesday 17th Jan 1792 Diemans Land
1 Fresh breezes and cloudy with fair intervals Employed regulating the Peoples bedding.
4 I saw a seal Oceanic birds as usual.
6 Spoke the Assistant & sent them some fresh mutton all well.
10 Heavy dew
4 I now supposed myself in Lat. of 38° 58 S & altered my course to be nearer the south part of St. Pauls in the morning, its Lat. being by my obs. last voyage 38° 48 30" S & its Long 77° 42 19" East
8 Thick misty wr. & fog. gave a hot breakfast to the People as yesterday.
9 Served sweet wort & aired ship with fires.
12 A few minutes before noon the wr. cleared & got a good observation for the Lat. ; but it still continued thick above the horizon in the North, through which we saw the East end of St. Pauls bearing NNE ½ E dis. 14 miles
Assistant in Company.
Remk Wednesday 18th Jan 1792 Island St. Pauls
1 Light breezes and cloudy wr. with mist Ό past noon saw St. Pauls Isl. NNE dist 5 leag.
3 Seals Gannups Fish.
4 Thick cloudy wr. Bore away The extremes of the Island N2°W to N9°E dist. about 10 miles. The south west extreme being a high head land.
7 At ½ past seven the extremes of the Isl. N30°W to N23°W about 5 leagues.
12 Fair wr. and dew.
4 Cloudy
6 Thick misty wr.
8 Fair intervals. washed ship dried with fires served sour krout and sweet wort - .
11 Drizling rain
12 Fair wr. saw Seals Blue Petrels - & some Albetrosses. Royals & all sails set Assistant in Company
Remk which and after all, I benefitted very little by the partial clear intervals that favored us in the afternoon.
Remk Thursday 19th Jan 1792 Towards Van
1 Fair wr. opened a cask of Pork N 1102 Conts 120 pieces Dble.
6 Let fresh water into ship and worked the pumps as usual.
7 I now gave orderd that no man should be permitted on deck after sundown without having his flannel cloathes on
12 Fine night and very heavy dew.
4 Drizling rain & thick wr.
8 Fresh breezes & cloudy wr. cleaned and aired Ship with fires. Exercised boats crews at small arms served sour krout Served sweet wort.
12 Thick breezes & fair wr. Studding sails and all sails set
Assistant in Company
Remk ContinuedThere appears some confusion in naming the twin islands, altho in such an immense space without any known land near them; but I have seen no old accounts or maps of them where the Southernmost was not called St. Pauls, & Northernmost Amsterdam, & therefore see no reason to alter it any my departure from The Cape. - I made St. Paul s on the 27th day, consequently the error was then 2445", which added to 77°:17:34"E gives 77°:42:10", East for the long. of the East end of St. Paul.differ [continued on Page 152]
Remk Friday 20th January 1792 Towards Van
1 Fresh breezes and fair wr.
5 Let fresh water into the Ship and worked the pumps
9 In 1st reef M.T.S 2nd reef Fore & Miz. T. S.
12 In 2nd reef main T.S.
4 Fresh gales & cloudy wr.
8 Sun to be seen at times. served portable soup in the burgoo for breakfast
9 Cleaned Ship & aired with fires in the cockpits.
11 Served sour krout as usual & a pint of sweet wort at 11 oclock.
12 Fresh gales & cloudy wr. Got a tolerable observation. smooth water & no birds to be seen.
Assistant in Company
Remk Continuedmuch from the result of the three Time pieces I am in possession of From the mean of their longitude reduced up to noon of the 17th I apply the error of 2:11" found on the 15th which gives the true longitude at noon that day 77°:42 E, hence from the bearings of the East point its longitude is 77°:40 E
The man of this and 77°:42 which my calculations proved it to lie in in 1788, is 77°:41 East, and this I conceive to be within Ό of a degree of the truth, if not exact to the nearest mile. I consider the Lat. of the East End to be 38°:48 S but I have not had an opportunity to determine it with certainty to a mile. It is however within two
In July 1788 I considered the variation of the compass to by 19°:55 West and at this time 22°:00 West in the neighbourhood of the Island. -
Remk on Saturday 21st Jan 1792 Toward V. D. Land
1 Fresh gales & cloudy wr.
4 A few Albetrosses
6 Gale increasing got down T.G. Yards & close reefed the Top Sails and handed Main Sail.
8 Fires all night to air Ship. Carried a Stern light.
11 Strong gales with heavy squalls of wind & rain and a sudden shift of wind. Hauled the Fore Sail up & handed Main Top Sail.
5 Fresh gale & fair wr.
6 Set the Fore Sail & Main T.S. many flocks of small blue Petrels about us
8 Out 4th reefs & set the Main Sail.
9 Hung up all wet cloaths - cleaned & dried ship with fires Served krout & sweet wort as usual
12 Very fresh gale & fair wr. Many birds about of the small Petrel tribe.
Assistant in Company
Remk Sunday 22nd Jan 1792 Towards V. D. Land
1 Fresh gales & fair wr. with some squalls. out 3rd reef M.T.S
3 Out 3rd reef Fore T.S.
6 Heavy shower of rain
7 In 3rd reefs & handed the Main Sail & Mizen Top Sail.
8 Fires all night to air Ship
12 Great sea from WSW.
8 More mod. out 3rd Reefs. Cleaned & dried below with fires Mustered the Ships Company & saw them clean and performed Divine Service.
11 Served sweet wort as usual.
12 Cloudy with fair intervals and less sea. Few Albetrosses & some small blue Petrels Rove new tiller rope
Assistant in Company
Remk Monday Jan 23rd 1792 Towards V. D. Land
1 Fresh gale & fair wr.
4 Fresh breezes & cloudy. Up T.G. Yards Hailed. The Assistant found all well Served a piece of fresh mutton on board to Mr. Portlock.
8 Moderate & cloudy. Fires all night to air Ship.
4 Light winds
6 Set all Sail -
8 Fair wr. Washed & cleaned Ship in every part. Dried with fires Gave the people a hot breakfast of portable soup gruel. - Vinegar & sour krout as usual sweet wort at ½ past 10. -
12 Fine wr. Gave the people a rich mess of bore cole, portable soup, with oatmeal for dinner.
Swell from the SW. Very few birds.
Assistant in Company.
Remk Tuesday 24th Jan 1792 Towards Van
1 Light breezes & fine wr.
2 Opened a cask of Beef N.1618 Conts. 66 Dble pieces New parralled the T.S. Yards -
4 Saw a broken piece of rock weed. -
6 Let fresh water into the ship and worked the pumps as usual. -
8 Cloudy wr. Fires all night to air ship
8 Fair wr. Cleaned below & dried with fires. - Served krout a hot breakfast of thick gruel & portable soup. Served sweet wort.
11 Exercised at small arms, & Carpenters fitting the scuttles
12 Fair wr and light breezes All sails set.
Assistant in Company
Remk Wednesday 25th Jan 1792 Diemans Land
1 Mod. breezes and fair wr.
2 Carpenters employed new fitting the scuttles
5 Let fresh water into the ship & worked the pumps to ventilate the hold.
8 Very fine wr. washed & cleaned ship fore and aft. Dried with fires.
9 Gave a hot breakfast of thick portable soup gruel Served sweet wort at ½ past 10 oclock, and sour krout as usual.
10 Exercised at small arms Sailmakers repairing the Fore Top Gall. Sail. 12 Ditto wr. No birds to be seen Smooth water. All sails set
Assistant in Company, but obliged to shorten sail for her at times. -
Remk Thursday 26th Jan 1792 Towards Van
1 Light breezes and fine wr.
2 Sailmakers employed repairing the Fore T.G.Sail.
4 Exercised at small arms.
6 Let fresh water into the ship & worked the pumps as usual to prevent any bad air collecting below
4 Fresh breezes & cloudy.
8 Cleaned below and aired with fires. Served a hot breakfast of thick gruel. Sour krout as usual and sweet wort at ½ past 10
11 Exercised at small arms
12 Ditto wr. but got a good observation. Assistant in Company, but not able to keep way with us
No birds except a solitary Albetross seen now & then -
Remk Friday 27th Jan 1792 Diemans Land
1 Moderate breezes & cloudy wr. Lieut. Portlock came to dine with me all well on board.
4 Exercised at small arms.
6 Let fresh water into the ship and worked the pumps as usual
8 Fine night
12 Much dew
8 Fair wr. Served a hot breakfast of thick portable soup gruel. Sour krout as usual & a pint of sweet wort at ½ past 10
10 Exercised at small arms & cleaned the ship and aired with fires
12 Fresh breezes & smooth water. No birds. Assistant in Company but not able to keep way with us.
Remk Saturday 28th Jan 1792
1 Fresh breezes and fair wr.
3 Employed making sinnet and spunyarn
4 Exercised at small arms
6 Let fresh water into the ship and worked the pumps as usual. A few Albetrosses & Mother Careys Chicken
10 Heavy dew
2 In 1st reefs. Swell from the WSW
6 Out reefs
8 Cloudy but pleasant wr. - Washed & cleaned below gave the people a hot breakfast of thick gruel. Served krout as usual, & sweet wort at ½ past 10
11 Aired ship with fires exercised at small arms. In 1st reefs.
12 Fair & pleasant wr. Assistant in Compy. but we are obliged frequently to shorten sail for her A few Sheerwtaers & small Petrels.
Remk Sunday 29th Jan 1792 Towards V.D. Land
1 Fair & pleasant wr.
2 Saw a few Albetrosses
6 Cloudy wr. Worked the pumps as usual
10 Heavy dew
12 Drizling rain
1 Wind shifts suddenly..
4 Fresh breezes & cloudy set steering sails
7 Misty wr. Served a hot breakfast as yesterday
8 Dark cloudy wr. shortned sail for the Assistant. Cleaned below
9 Mustered the Ships Company & saw them clean dressed. Served sweet wort.
11 Performed Divine Service.
12 Ditto wr. Assistant in Company. No birds no observations
Remk Monday 30th Jan 1792 Towards Van
1 Dark cloudy wr.
2 Saw a shoal of porpoises
5 Let fresh water into the ship and worked the pumps as usual
6 In 1st reefs
8 Served a hot breakfast of portable soup gruel. Vinegar, a pint per man - krout & sweet wort as usual, and bore cole mixed with portable soup & oatmeal for dinner, this being Banyan day.
11 Washed ship & aired with fires. Exercised at small arms.
12 A continuance of dark cloudy wr. A few Albetrosses & Sheerwaters & Mother Careys Chicken. All sails set
Assistant in Company
Remk Tuesday 31st Jan 1792 Diemans Land
1 Dull cloudy wr.
8 Gale increasing. In steering sails & 2 Reefs of the Top Sails Handed Main Sail.
12 Very fresh gale in 3rd Reef Fore T.S.
3 Rain
4 Dark cloudy wr.
6 Squally with showers
8 Fair wr. and hard squalls. - Cleaned & dried below with fires. Served portable soup gruel for breakfast.
10 Krout as usual, & sweet wort at ½ past 10.
11 Down T.G. Yard
12 Hard gale & fair wr. with squalls Close reefed the Top Sails & handed Fore Top Sail. Some Albetrosses & Sheerwaters about.
Assistant in Company but cannot keep way with us. -
Remk Wednesday 1st Feb 1792 Towards Van -
1 Hard gale & cloudy wr. with bright intervals. Much sea from the WSW
3 Set Fore Top Sail
4 Saw a bunch of rock weed, called Tangle. It is like lashes of coach whips Saw many porpoises some Albetrosses & Sheerwaters
5 Saw many porpoises
8 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast. - cleaned & aired below with fires. Served krout as usual & sweet wort at
½ past 10
10 Saw a bunch of large rock weed. Served slops & tobacco
12 Strong gale & cloudy wr. The sun to be seen but seldom got a tolerably good observation. out 4th reefs. A few Albetrosses & several sorts of Petrels. Much sea from WSW.
Assistant in Company, but I am obliged to carry less sail for her, than I should otherwise do.
Remk Thursday 2nd Feb 1792 Diemans Land
1 Weather moderating out 4th reefs.
3 Out 3 & 2nd reefs & up T.G. Yards
4 Out all reefs and set fore Top Steering sail.
5 Let fresh water into the ship and worked the pumps as usual
8 In 1st reefs
10 Moderate & cloudy wr. with a few squalls of light rain.
4 Set T. Gall. And lower steering sails
8 Fair wr. Much swell from the WSW & ship rolling deep
9 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast. - washed & cleaned below & dried with fires. Served krout as usual, & a pint of sweet wort at ½ past 10
12 Fresh breezes & fair wr. Hailed the Assistant & found all well. Sent a little fresh meat to them by a line.
Remk Friday 3rd Feb 1792 Towards Van
1 Fresh breezes and fair wr. opened a cask of pork N1102 Conts 122 Dble pieces
4 Cloudy. Let water into the ship & worked the pumps as usual.
7 In 1st reefs
10 Wind freshening. In steering sails.
3 Fresh gales & cloudy
4 In 2nd reef T. S.
6 In 3rd reef M. T. S and close reefed the Fore T.S. Misty wr.
8 Strong gale & thick misty wr with very hard squalls. Reefed the Fore sail & Main Top Sail & handed them. Set the Fore & Main Stay Sails & a Fore Stay S. for a Miz Stay Sail Down T.G.Yards
12 Hard gale & thick rainy wr. with much sea & frequent hard squalls The Assistant in Company.
Aired ship with fires . No observation.
Remk Saturday 4th Feb 1792 Diemans Land
1 Hard gale and squalls of rain & thick wr.-
3 Set the Fore sail
4 More moderate. Set the main TS.
5 Cloudy wr. & fair intervals
8 Fresh gales & cloudy wr.
10 Fair wr.
4 Squally with small rain
5 Fair wr. out fourth reefs
8 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast. - Krout & sweet wort as yesterday.
10 Washed below & dried with fires.
Up T. Gall Yards. dried all wet things.
12 Fresh gale & fair wr. Albetrosses Sheerwaters & Mother Careys Chicken about - & a few bunches large rock weed. - A continuance of a great sea from the WSW Assistant in Company but cannot keep way with us.
Remk Sunday 5th Feb 1792 Towards Van
1 Fresh gale & fair wr.
2 Opened a cask of pork N1049 Conts 120 Dble pieces.
4 Oceanic birds as usual
6 Less wind. Let fresh water into the ship & worked the pumps as usual.
8 Great swell from the Westward.
9 Heavy dew & sharp airs
12 Fresh gale & fine wr.
7 Hazy. Served hot breakfast of portable soup gruel as usual - Krout & sweet wort.
9 Mustered the Ships Company Saw them clean dressed Read the Articles of War & -
11 Performed Divine Service
12 Fair wr. & hazy some sea weed many small blue Petrels & a few other oceanic birds.
Assistant in Company. Much swell from the Westward & a moist air aired ship with fires. -
Remk Monday 6th Feb 1792 Diemans Land
1 Fresh gale and fair wr. with haze
2 Many small Blue Petrels a few Albetrosses & other Oceanic birds
3 Much swell from the West
5 Let water into the ship & worked the pumps as usual. In 1st reefs
10 Very fine night and a prodigious dew that pierces through all our cloaths. I dared not venture to expose myself to it, to make some observations, as from my attempt last night I caught cold & had a return of my nervous disorder which for a fortnight I kept very free of.
4 Cloudy wr.
8 Fair wr. Served a hot breakfast as yesterday - bore cole & portable soup thickened with oatmeal for dinner. Krout, vinegar & sweet wort as usual.
11 Washed & cleaned ship & dried with fires
12 Fine wr & haze saw a few White Bellied Porpoises many small Blue Petrels Assistant in Company, but we spare her all our studding sails. Water tolerably smooth
Remk Tuesday Feb 7th 1792 Towards Van
1 Strong breezes & fair wr.
5 Let fresh water into the ship and worked the pumps as usual to keep the ship free of bad air.
8 Fresh gales & cloudy
12 Very heavy dew
5 Saw several large fish species of Grampus which the South Whale Fishers call Black Fish
8 Fair wr. Served a hot breakfast of portable soup gruel sweet wort at ½ past 10, & sour krout as usual.
10 Bent the cables. - Cleaned below -
11 In 2nd reefs on account of the Assistant not being able to keep up with us.
12 Fresh gales & fair wr. with much haze. Under Dble reefed TS & Fore Sail. Handed Main Sail.
Assistant in company under whole TS & courses
Some Sheerwaters & Blue Petrels -
Remk Wednesday Feb 8th 1792 On V. Diemans Land
1 Fresh gales and cloudy wr. and much haze.
3 In 3rd reef of the Top Sails
5 Let fresh water into the ship and washed the pumps as usual.
8 Mod. & cloudy some light rain
11 Out 3rd reefs
12 Drizling rain.
3 Fresh breezes & very hazy
4 Saw Van Diemans land at and at Ύ past 5 it bore from N to N70°E
6 SW Cape N5°E 10 or 11 miles Westermost land NNW Mewstone N85°E
7 At 7°:27 Long. taken. Mewstone N70° E:11 miles South Cape N65°E - SW Cape N29°W dist. about 5 leagues, bore up to go without the Mewstone.
12 Mod. & fair wr. Mewstone W3°S 6 or 7 leags.- Coxcomb Hill N23°W- South Cape N35°E 7 miles - Tasmans Head N53 1/2 E and Swilly Isle S65°E 2 or 3 leags. - 12 miles measured distance
Remkfrom whence to the eastward the country begins to be cloathed with wood. Any further remarks here would be but a repetition of my account in my voyage, to which I refer for a particular description of this coast.
Remk. Thursday Feb 9th 1792. V.D. Land
1 Light airs & fine wr. with calm intervals. Sounded 72 fms.. Reddish speckled sand, the Mewstone S84°W, South Cape N12°E 2 leagues & Swilly S48°E.-
4 Mod. and cloudy, could not get any observations Mewstone N88°W Swilly S19°E. Coxcomb Land shut on with high peaked mountain at N49°W - Swilly & South Cape in a line S32E & N32°W
6 Tasmans Head N18°E 2 leagues.
8 Cloudy and unsteady winds. The Fryers off Tasmans Head WbyN & the land near Fluted Cape N5°W. Dist. from The Fryers 2 or 3 miles.
12 Very variable winds & weather. Cape Frederick Henry NNW
5 Got the boats ahead to tow. Sounded 31 fms. Cape Frederick Henry N Ύ E Ditto NbyE Ό E Sounded 29 fms. Ditto NbyE Ύ E
Pengwin Isl. SSE 1 ½ mile Sounded 23 fms. C.F.Hry NNE 20 fms 1 ½ mile from Peng Isl. Ditto NNE Ό E & Peng Isl. ESE 1 Mile Ό
Sounded 19 fms. Gave hot breakfast as usual.
9 At ½ past 7 came to in Adventure Bay in 9 fms with the sml br. moored ship B B in 10 fms. Pengwin Isl. N64°E
C.F.Henry N25°E West end of the beach West Ύ mile.
11 Hoisted the boats served sweet wort.
12 Light variable winds, calms & very cloudy wr. The Assistant in Company. Hauled the Seine & caught only one hundred weight of poor fish. Bream Elephant Fish - small flat fish & other small fry
Here log account end & Civil account begins
Remkat , & fix our wooding party, & at the same time sent the Cutter with the Seine. at in 1788, the most convenient, as being nearest to the ship; but in other respects all parts of the beach alike; and the best water I found at the watering place of the Resolution, about a half mile without the west end of the beach. - It is a fine plentiful stream, & the best water in this place, if not as good as any whatever. - At this place we saw a wigwam and some recent marks of the natives having been lately at it. - Many mussel shells & some cray fish were heaped up as if they had fed there for a considerable time. - We picked up some handfuls of fine shavings of wood, which I believe they prepare to light their fires with, and a bundle of dried inside bark tied up, two feet long, which intended for a flambeau. - The Wigwam would cover about six people, its form is a perfect section of a beehive, the open part being to the NE. - The covering was large pieces of bark, but was neither wind nor water tight. which was perfectly fresh in its colour, & not the least decayed. and in the afternoon I gave to the people by way of rest . The different parties were fixed for the morrow & I directed every one to breakfast at 7 oclock before they went on shore. -Weather thick and rainy -by Civil Acct & not log.
Remk in Adventure Bay Civil Account
February
Friday 10th
Untill 10 OClock this morning the weather was so bad with hard rain that I chose not no work could be done but the latter part of the day [indecipherable] turned out dry the wind North NNE to the SW.
We continued unsuccessfull with our Seine, I therefore directed to have the sour krout, hot breakfast every day of thick portable soup gruel, to be served to the people as usual, and that they should have their breakfasts before they were sent on shore. The necessary duties of the ship began to be forwarded with all dispatch & in the afternoon received on board the first launch load of wood. In the night many red cod were taken with hook & line.
The weather to day was generally fair, but we had such strong SW gale at night as obliged us to strike Lower yds & Top Gall. Mast. es several smaller arms in which are 2,4 & 6 feet water. It winds through a flat circumscribed by the hills about Ύ mile at most from the beach. It was in all parts brackish - this flat is swampy & it bears nothing but wire grass, reeds, and a few scrubs where it is not too much covered with water a few scrubs. I had an idea the upper parts might have been formed by fresh water runs but I saw none except a few made by the rains so that the whole only in part so used water is principally I find on the contrary it is from the sea, which works its way through the beach, & high & low water in mod. weather Bg shows itself as on the sea shore. weather
Remk in Adventure Bay
1792
Februaryone two of which I we killed & picked up another that had been shot before. These birds are very numerous & breed in the lake there are two kinds, and have such a shield of feathers that but seldom the shot could penetrate to kill them.some 9 young oaks, 3 pomegranates, 20 strawberrys, 3 quinces, and 5 figs & 1 rosemary, upon the rising grounds near the lake at the East end of the beach -give us a we catch Reddish Cod from a half a pound to two pound weight. & Grass Cutters & Broomers employed, and at leisure moments haul ing the Seine and catch ing fish with hook & line. - I continue to give my our people good breakfasts of thick gruel & portable soup, and as no vegetable production can be found here, I likewise give them Sour Krout every day, & bore cole & portable soup for their dinners on Banyan Days.- Sweet wort I have left off while here as exercise & the land air will do its office. -
Remk in Adventure Bay Civil Acc. of Time
1792
Feb.
Monday 13thhave been killed shags and garnets have been killed, - the latter roasted in the with its skin off is preferable to any of the others, & is remarkably free of any fishy taste. The Botanists in their excursions killed a rat, & several have been seen by our people, they however resemble a mole about the head, altho like our small rats in every other particular.
Remk in Adventure Bay
1792
Feb.
Tuesday 14thby the West -clear stow the greater quantity. Recd on board three turn of water per launch and four large cutter loads of wood. Its The body was rather larger than the largest Parrot, & its head disproportionally sized & rough. It is certainly a variety of the Bankian Cockatoo. Several Parroquets were shot shot & a few ducks, gannets, & shags with white bellys, called by some shell drakes. - Fish we continued to catch with hook & line; but the Seine scarecely pays for the trouble of hauling it.
Remk in Adventure Bay
1792
Feb.
Thursday 16this overflows & forces its way to the sea. Here is abundance of wood as in other parts of the Bay & some remarkable fine trees. In the valley several kangaroos were seen, & if I may judge from the quantities of their dung, there are a great many of them they lie about the high wire grass. well healthy, had not made a shoot exceeding 12 or 13 inches.we but however only caught two scollop shells.
Remk in Adventure Bay
1792
Feb.
Friday 17thwhich has rendered it brackish Employed completing the holds & on various necessary duties. From an extreme anxiousness anxiety to get some equal altitudes & other astronomical observations I have watched every bright interval in this day, as I have hitherto done, but to my great mortification it has not been in my power to complete a single observation.Botanists Gardeners are zealously employed, & have travelled back so far as on the top of Nelsons Hill, which I have named after Mr. Nelson who was Botanist the Gardener in my last voyage. This hill lies S10°E 3 miles dis as a bird flies from the west end of the beach The top is covered with smaller trees than the parts below, but none of the forrest kind, so that the summit of it, appears to be bare. On the top of the hill is a large oblong rock of granite, on which a dozen men may stand with ease it is 9 feet high on one side & seven on the other. Most all of the summits of the hills they found covered with large stones, or rocky The woods thick, & in some places scarcely penetrable the soil a fine vegetable loam & fit to produce any European grain in great abundance About 3 or 4 miles from the beach they found at the foot of the hill, a small spring of water, & in tracing it in their way back, found it to connect with some brackish water at the east end of the beach. In some parts of the stream they caught some trout about 6 inches long. - On Nelson Hill they found no mark of fire, so that we may readily suppose the Natives do not take the trouble to go near it. -
Remk in Adventure Bay
1792
Feb.
Saturday 18th
Very strong gales at WSW, and the afternoon very hard squalls with heavy rain, so that that our work was considerable labour to us, & most of the people wet & uncomfortable [note in margin: (a) vide bottom of opposite page]
At night I gave all hands an additional allowance of wine. Getting on board wood & water and completing the holds, kept every person employed, & from the strong surf on the shore we were obliged to go full 300 yds farther back to take the water up to avoid what was brackish. - Bright intervals in the Forenoon induced me to endeavour to make some astronomical observations, but I was not able to complete a single set, except the mornings Azimuths. whether the Natives are coming to us it is impossible to say time now makes it doubtfull if I can accomplish it. of was preserved, which is a foot diameter. It is a light colour. Unfortunately from burning the branches we could not find the leaf of the tree; but it is certainly thought to be one of the Metrocidera kind. -
Remk in Adventure Bay
Feb. 1792
like an overgrown lizard, except in its colour, which is blackish spotted with a dull yellow Its length 17 inches of which the tail is 6 It crawls as a lizard, the belly touching the ground has four feet with 5 small claws to each the head is flat with a large mouth, but the teeth are scarcely discernable, and the tongue is thick & of a blue colour. - This creature I think is common on the coast of America [Note in margin: Dr. Anderson says this lizard was not known before the Resolution anchored here in 1777]form resemble more like the thumb & fingers of a hand, except that the fore claw is the longest and curved. The eyes are remarkably small, and lie just above the beak. It has no tail, but a rump not unlike that of a Pengwin, on which are some quills about an inch long like as strong as & like those of a Porcupine These quills or prickles are [indecipherable] all over its back amidst a thick coat of rusty brown hair; but the belly is of a light greyish colour. The skin is remarkably white.-
Remk in Adventure Bay Civil Account
1792
Feb.
Sunday 19ththey did not observe any no paint was observed about their skins, or nor was the womens hair cut in the manner described by Capt. Cook. Some pieces of bread were given to them which they eat, altho some trifles, such as rings which were offered, they would not accept. Our party finding them shy of any further intercourse, left the place leaving a hatchet, handkerchiefs, & a knife a proof of their friendly intentions. They found four lances, and the short stick described by C. Cook The lances are strait eight & taper, [indecipherable] fit for a trout fishing rods & about 10 feet 6 inches long pointed at the big end where it is not above Ύ inch diameter.
I have only thought this worth mentioning lest I may not see the Natives myself; but I have no doubt but that the women were shorn about the head, & the men painted, - at least their skins rubbed with oker or dirt. They were very desirous to have a hat but the weather was too wet for their visitors to spare one. Mortimer remarks that in Oyster Bay of the Natives asked for hats.
Remk in Adventure Bay
1792
Feb.
Monday 20after I returned without seeing them. On my return on board I took off from the beds of weed which surround the West shore, many pretty shells, - They adhere to the weeds, on the surface of the water, where it is 5,6 & 8 fms deep. I should have immediately endeavoured to have got out to sea, but one of the Assistants people absented himself from the boat, and altho search was made for him, & guns fired from the ship, we could hear no tydings of him. Fires were made about the shore for the night, & I directed a light to be left all night at the ships mast heads, that this poor fellow might find his way to the bay.
Remk in Adventure Bay Civil Account
1792
Feb.
Tuesday 21
Fair weather with light variable airs & calms. In the morning the parties set off in search of the absent man, and I employed myself in getting some equal altitudes & variations of the compass, for we had not experienced such a day while we were here. Botanists gardeners found him a little from the beach, & brought him to me at the place where I was taking an observation ing . It is wonderfull to relate that this unhappy creature has determined to stay behind with a wish to perish & never return to his native country. I found he had was of creditable parents, but had been a disgrace to them, & therefore they had recommended him to go this voyage, as the most likely means elligible either to of improving, e or destroying him send him to destruction . I had many of these impertinent or thoughtless recommendations. Our minds were now at ease the man was kindly taken care of, and I ordered the ships to be towed further out of the bay, where we were obliged to anchor in 15 fms. it being perfectly calm Pengwin Island bore E 1 Mile Cape Fr. Henry N24°E, Nelson Hill S1°E.
Remk in Adventure Bay
Feb 1792
Wednesday 22
In the morning at day break with fair wr. & SWly winds we got under sail, & Assistant in compy.in all parts & covered with wood. We saw numerous fires as if the country was fuller of inhabitants than has hitherto been supposed, & particularly about the shore of the Table Mountain, where it is certainly the finest part of the country, & the most likely place to find rivers. - I did not feel myself justified to examine this place, from my being so late in the season for Otaheite, I therefore reluctantly gave it up. At noon it blew hard from the South & I was we were obliged to carry much sail to work out & clear the land. Cape Frederick Henry bore WSW Cape Pillar East 2 leags. Saw a great number of seals.
Remk of that are incidentally more than by wind and weather, produce fruit. Those that were planted with it have been certainly destroyed by fire, & all the fall of trees. I cannot help reflecting on my inattention in not searching after the very probable chance of discovering the result of
any planting the most advantageous thing I planted. This was Potatoes, - I saw no vestige above the ground, and never thought of digging untill I came away - It is not impossible they have increased.get become wild. Perhaps the most valuable of the articles I have this time planted, are nine fine young oak plants about 8 inches high. They were planted in East Cove on the slope of the hill on the left hand side of the flat as you land, about 200 or 300 yds from the water side. A little below the oaks are planted five fig plants, three pomegranates, three quinces & twenty strawberrys.
On Penqwin Island & Grass Point we sowed fir seed, appricot and peach stones. I expect the oaks & the fir seed will thrive, and some watercresses that were planted at the east end of the beach in the rivulet which connects with the brackish water. This rivulet about 300 yds from the water side has but a very small run, but is more considerable towards Nelson Hill, where our Botanists Gardeners have described its source to me to be a fine spring. Many small dull coloured trout were in the running water.season period had more than than the common signs of bad weather, it kept the fish out of the bay a mosquito was scarcely to be seen even in the swamps, and the flys were not troublesome as in hot weather, when both the one and the other are scarcely bearable. Our greatest supply was a fine reddish coloured cod that weighed from a half to two & three pounds, caught by hook & line from the ship. The Seine rewarded us little for the trouble of hauling it, except on the last day, when we caught an abundance of Spanish Mackerel At the other times we caught a few Elephant Fish, Flounders, Soles, Gurnards, a Flat headed slimy fish called by some Fishermen Foxes, Bream, Sting Rays & Skeets besides a variety of small fish, in all amounting to twenty eight diff sorts.- But the finest fish are the Bream caught in te marsh, they are highly delicious and afford very excellent diversion by fishing with a float & baiting with worms or muscles. In the winter season I saw many spider crabs but at this time I saw not one, or any whales In August 1788 we had many in the bay they were the Bone or Right Whale as they are called, having
fixed regular in the time of coming into bays & upon coasts, it is probable therefore that this August may be the time of their appearing about Van Diemans Land, as we have not seen them there in the Summer months of this latitude.that some of our gentlemen had with the natives, that they avoid being wet with by the sea with every degree of caution. Our party saw them gathering muscles, when it was remarkable to see the men fly they flew away from every surge of the water which they thought though it would not have reached even their knees I have remarked in my former voyage, that the Natives retire in the boisterous time of the year to places not exposed to the sea winds. Frederick Henry Bay is a most ellligible situation for them, In the northern parts of it, from the smokes we observed, the Inhabitants are more numerous than is generally supposed they have there a range of high continental land, sheltered by large islands from the sea, where both water and food are probably more plentifull than we have yet found it to be.- They are not confined to shell fish for I have seen several wood spits with which they support larger masses of food against the fire than either fish or birds. The Kangoroos are numerous, the marks of them are met with all over the low grounds. several were seen and escaped being killed by owing to the close underwood, or rushes a good dog would give a great deal of sport. I reallyof the ir Natives having canoes however ill constructed they may be mere logs however may be said to be sufficient to transport them such small distances.remarked supposed from small baskets being found containing flints, that they get fire by collision, but I have not heard of any fungus discovered or any substitute for it that will contain sparks made by collision. I have found rolls of peculiar bark which is taken from the trees of the smallest species Metrocedera that I conceived would have effected this purpose, but with the fairest trials I could not accomplish it, altho a small particle of collected fire put among it will soon generate such a body as to secure the end part ignited from being extinguished in the wettest weather.
It appears that they have some trouble in making fire, for besides this dry bark, they use shavings of some light wood, which has the appearance likeness of being taken off by a plane iron of one eighth of an inch wide several handfuls of these shavings lay about most of the Wigwams that I saw I apprehend they are formed by the sharp end of the muscle shell.observed saw recent marks of fire and proofs of the natives having been there & it proved to be but a small distance from the place where they really found them at . At this wigwam our men they left two tin tumblers and a linnen bag with an intention of taking them up in their return, when to their surprise when they got back the Natives had taken all away, but their curiosity was so easily gratified, or the fears of the consequences were so great, that these poor creatures left each article uninjured as the found it at a few yards from the wigwam, in a conspicuous place on the trunk of a fallen tree.-is are of a much better soil than about the Cape of Good Hope, and abounds with wood The rocks & stones upon the hills are the same as found at the Cape, and lumps of granite of the same kind as the Perl Rock is formed of , but no such large masses were seen. The face of the shore above the water is formed of a peculiar sandy stone great slabs of it which lie on Hewen Stone Head, squared with such great exactness as if done by art.
I saw no marks of fusion or subterraneous fire on any part of the coast, or nor would any quality in of the stones that were picked up that would affect a magnet.
East Cove Valley likewise produceth good water, but to at the place where it is at all times pure, we bailed it dry as fast as it ran, & the rolling way is troublesome. Botanist but it appears to me at this time to be not the case or as far as I can I judge of it. e arated on the south and east from Adventure Bay by a low narrow neck of land which in some parts is only250 or 300 yds across. To the NE it forms a high peninsula extending to the entrances of these two bays. To the north & west is the main land. The greatest extent is about eight miles from north to south, and about half the distance across. It has a small island in the middle, and is perfectly land locked. From the shore of the isthmus is a bank on which are numerous oysters, and muscles - The y muscles were larger, but not so good as those about the rocks in Adventure Bay. The harbour is fine & capacious, perfectly free of from surf, while on the east side of the isthmus the sea broke with great fury. The country is the same as about Adventure Bay, and at the beginning of the lowland is a morass about Ύ of a mile long where we met with brackish water, but saw no springs. We saw none of the natives, they had however taken away some trinkets that were left in a wigwam the day before, by some of our gentlemen. Botanists Gardeners account of the country about Adventure Bay is as follows. On The tops of the hills above Grass point are much encumbered with rocks & loose stones, but the high grounds abt. the middle of the Bay are very free of them. -
XTK 147°:56:48"E
No.2 - 148°:32:3"
No. 160 -147°: 13:27"
Mean = 147°:54:66"
Difference 0°:20:37
Time at Peng Isl. 9:51:47,2
No. 2 - 9:54:8,2
No. 160 9:48:53,8
1:33,2 lost
3:54,2 lost
1:20,2 gained
[Table of daily rates]
By dividing the whole errors found at this place on the 16th by 65 days the interval since leaving the Cape XTKs Rate is 19",1 losing No.2 17",6 losing & No.160 is 2",6 gaining per 24 hours; - But asArnold No.160 is evidently gaining more than the observations show, (which I do not consider as sufficient to determine their rates with much exactness) I have taken the mean of those found by the forgoing observations, & those from the result of the whole passage, so that the rates I sail with are
XTK 20",2 losing,
No.2- 20",2 losing -
No.160Arnold 1",8" gaining and their errors as per columns
[Tables Mean latitude of Pengwin Island, Latitudes observed on board, Latitudes observed in East Cove,
Variations taken on board, Variations on shore in East Cove]
Remk Thursday Feb 23rd 1792 Towards new Zealand
1 A very fresh gale and cloudy wrs. Carrying all possible sail to work out and clear the land, tacking ship occasionally
4 Cape Frederick Henry N82°W 1 mile. At Ό past 4 saw the Assistant with her fore yard gone. prepared the Cutter to send to her assistance.
5 At Ό past 5 stood past Cape Fr. Henry into Adventure Bay within ½ mile carried 25 to 27 fms. Made the signal to prepare to anchor. Saw fires on Gully Head.
[5-9 in margin Working in the Bay to get into proper anchorage. Sound 25fms to 13NE]
11 Came to with the small br. in 15fms. The Assistant in company. Pengwin isl. N85°E Ό mile Nelson Hill S9°W. Cape Fred henry N24°E Eastern part of the Table land N18°W
4 Light winds
5 Sent hands on board the Assistant to assist in preparing her for sea. & we bent our 2nd best suit of sails
8 Served a hot breakfast as usual of thick portable soup gruel.
9 Cleaned ship
12 Light winds & fair wr. Assistant busily employed getting ready for sea. Saw some smokes on the north part of Fred. Henry low land.
Remkunluckily the Assistant had the misfortune to carry away her Fore Yard. I had no resource so e l ligible as to gain anchorage in the Bay we had left, to have this accident properly repaired got the better of , I therefore made the signal to Lieut. Portlock to that purpose intent , and at the same time was ready to send him assistance by boats. - This he prevented rendered unnecessary by getting a yard across by which means he was equally soon, in a secure anchoring place with ourselves.
Cape Frederick Henry is a fine bold shore I passed within ½ a mile of it, & had 27 fms, and stood along the shore towards Gully Head until I shoaled to 13 fms, abreast of where the hillocks begin to rise in the north part of Fred. Henry low land, - the wind then obliged me to tack, when I found I neared the beach by some set of tide or stream, & was obliged to go about again, & had it in my favour was enabled by it to gain the anchoring ground. Upon From the whole of my observations, I am inclined to think there is generally a stream from the North round Cape Fred. Henry which sets round the Bay, & out by Pengwin Island. - I am certain that if this stream had not set strong from the northward, we could not have worked out as we did in the course of the afternoon against so strong a wind. I have likewise found that outset in coming round Pengwin Island so strong as to counteract light fair winds.
This is the third time I have worked into this bay on very dark nights, which next to my thorough knowledge of it, I give as a proof of its being easy to access & free of danger.
Remk Friday Feb 24th 1792 Towards New Zealand
1 Light airs & calms with much haze. Sent the Cutter on shore to fill some water casks.
4 The People returned from the Assistant
6 At ½ past 6 weighed & sailed, The Assistant in Company.
8 Light vari. Winds. The Highland next Pengwin Isl. SbyW dis. 1 mile.
11 A very sudden gust of wind came off the land which obliged us to take in all sails. Closed reefed the TS. Split the jib.
4 Strong gales & hard squalls with rain handed the Miz. Top Sail.
6 Saw the land near Fluted Cape NW, from the masthead, dis. 10 or 12 leagues.
Seals and porpoises seen.
8 A hard gale & severe squalls of rain & sleet. Handed Fore TS and down Top Gall Yards. Served a hot breakfast as usual.
10 Dried ship with fires. Krout in the Pease for Dinner.
12 Ditto wr. & much sea. The Assistant in Company Handed the Main TS. Many Oceanic birds. -
Remk.
Several fires were observable about the country to the NW, but the Natives made no longer any near Gully Head as we had observed coming in, a proof, that, they absented themselves and wished to have no communication or intercourse with us.
I have before mentioned that two goats were left on Pengwin Island, and would be of no use, as we had no male to leave with them. I therefore permitted some of the gentlemen to go in search of them they could only find one which was brought on board & and Albetross which they shot that measured 7 feet 7 inches from tip to tip of the wing.
We had no sooner got out of the bay than we were suddenly surprised by a heavy squall of wind & rain our Top Gall Sails & Stay Sails were set & only one reef in the Top Sails, so that it was with great difficulty we saved the Sails We nevertheless received no damage, except but splitting the jibb The gale increased & by noon we were brought under low sail. We had fair intervals & I got some tolerable altitudes for the time peices & a good noon observation. -
Remk Saturday Feb 25th 1792 Towards New Zealand
1 Strong gales & hard squalls with rain. Stowed the anchors.
3 More moderate. Set the Main Top Sail.
8 Squally and dark night. Fires all night to air ship. Directed a stern light be constantly carried.
1 Set the Fore Top Sail
5 Set the Miz TS
8 Mod and cloudy with squalls
9 Set single reef M.T.S. & dbl reefed for TS & up T Gall Yds. 10 Served hot breakfast of potable soup gruel. sweet wort a pint per man at 10 OClock. Cleaned below & aired with fires. Krout as usual.
12 Fresh breezes and fair wr. with some squalls bent the best Miz. TS. Assistant in Company. Thermo on deck in the air at noon 53°.
1 Fresh & cloudy wr. I now ordered a fire to be kept in my cabbin, - the thermo. There where it has always been, shows no longer the true state of the climate It is in future kept on deck.
6 The Assistant being in want of some shelter for their People I sent them one of our painted weather cloths, which rendered them great relief from the wet. Saw some species of whale.
12 Dark wr. Fires all night to air the ship
2 Fresh gales & squally in 2nd reef of the Fore Top Sail
6 Out 2nd reef Fore TS
8 Dark cloudy wr. Served hot breakfast of thick potable soup gruel. Sweet wort at 10 oclock Bore Cole in the Pease for dinner, & Krout a half pint per man
11 Mustered and saw every person clean dressed saw a cape hen. Performed Divine Service.
12 Cloudy wr. No observation. Under single reefs & small sails. Assistant in Company. A little past noon got Dble Alt. which gave the Lat. as per column.
Remk Monday 27 Feb. 1792 Towards New Zeland
1 Fresh breezes and cloudy wr.
2 Set Steering Sails
3 My deck thermo from the carelessness of the Mids was broke today. This is the second that I have lost, & having only one left, am therefore not so regular in registering its height, as it is necessary to have it on Deck out of the effect of fire, which I have now in my Cabbin.
8 In steering sails. Fires all night to air ship.
12 Mod. & cloudy
4 Out 1st reefs & set Top Mast & Top Gall Steering sails
6 Scrubbed hammock cloths
8 Light winds and cloudy wr. Thick portable soup gruel for breakfast. - Served vinegar as usual on this day, and bore cole & portable soup mixed with oatmeal for dinner. Krout as usual.
11 Washed ship and dried with fires
12 Light winds & cloudy weather with a faint show of the Sun. Saw rock weed sent a little fresh mutton on board the Assistant by a float & line Albetrosses & Sheerwaters.
{Note in margin: I ordered every Person to be at 2/3 allowance of Bread, it being fully sufficient & more than most men use A delay in performing my Voyage may throw us into difficulties]
Remk Tuesday 28th Feb. 1792 Towards New Zeland
1 Mod. breezes & cloudy wr. Sailmakers employed repairing the old sails & the Carpenters the large Cutter.
4 Opened a cask of beef N. 1446 Conts. 66 Dble pieces.
5 Saw a Grampus
10 Took all the steering sails in except the Fore Top Mast.
4 Set all steering sails.
8 Dark cloudy wr. Served breakfast as yesterday & sour krout.
10 Examined all bedding and gave clean hammocks. Saw a Cape Hen some rock weed some Albetrosses, Sheerwaters & Mother Careys Chicken.
12 Fresh breezes & cloudy, but the Sun seen at times & got a good observat. Assistant in Company.
Rem. Wednesday Feb 29th 1792. Towards New Zeland
1 Fresh breezes and cloudy. Sailmakers employed repairing sails & the Carpenters about the large Cutter.
8 Dark cloudy wr. In lower steering sails. Fires to air ship.
11 In all steering sails & 1st reefs
4 Out reefs & made all sail as would enable the Assistant to keep way with us
6 Many Albetrosses, Sheerwaters, Mother Careys Chicken some pieces of rock weed covered with barnacles.
8 A continuance of dark cloudy wr. Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast bore cole in the Pease for dinner, & sour krout a half pint per man.
10 Cleaned & aired with fires served sweet wort. Bent the new Fore Top Sail
12 Strong breezes & cloudy, Sun out towards noon & got a good observation. Obliged to shorten sail for the Assistant. -
Remk Thursday March 1st 1792, Towards New Zeland
1 Fresh gales & dark cloudy wr. Sailmakers employed about the sails & Carpenters about the Cutter.
5 Saw some divers two Cape Hens & bunches of rock weed.
8 Steered to give New Zeland a larger birth, in case the wind southing & to enable me to be more in a New Tarck.
10 In 1st reefs & steering sails
4 Mod. breezes & foggy wr. out reefs
6 Set all steering sails.
8 Thick misty wr. & sometimes a fog. Saw a pengwin. Served bore cole & as yesterday and aired ship with fires. Saw rock weed caught a Porpoise
12 Mod. and thick foggy wr. Sun out at times but no horizon. No latitude. Assistant in Compy
The lat. obs. at noon is from double alt. the following afternoon. Served slops to the S Company & tobacco
1 Mod breezes and fair wr. so that we were able to get dble Alt for the Lat.
3 Caught a Porpoise
4 Many Albetrosses on the water, and many Sheerwaters, small blue Petrels flying about.
6 Let fresh water into the ship and worked the pumps as usual.
8 A fine night but a heavy dew falling which like small rain wetted my glasses to that it prevented my making some observ.
12 Dark cloudy wr.
3 Cloudy wr. & foggy horizon
5 Much rock weed seen some divers, Seals, Whales, Porpoises, a Cape Hen, Albetrosses & Sheerwaters
7 Foggy, but became fair after 8 OClock
9 Thick gruel & portable soup for breakfast sweet wort at 10 OClock bore cole in the Pease for dinner. Krout a half pint per man as usual Cleaned ship & aired with fires
11 Fresh breezes & cloudy wr. & bright intervals Got a good observation. Assistant in Compy. Royals & all sails set.
12 The traps off New Zeland at noon NWbyN 47 leagues
1 Fresh breezes and dark cloudy wr.
2 Many patches of weed passing all the afternoon
4 Sailmakers repairing sails
6 Misty & very moist air. Let fresh water into the ship and worked the pumps as usual.
8 In steering sails & 1st reefs
10 Fresh gales with wet mist. In 2nd reefs
5 Out 2nd reefs
8 Fresh gales & cloudy wr. The sun to be seen at times. Served hot breakfast, sour krout & sweet wort as yesterday.
10 Cleaned & dried with fires Saw a Cape Hen Oceanic birds as usual
12 Fair wr. & cloudy. Served mustard to the Ships Company. Assistant in Company All sails set. Began to brew Spruce Beer
1 Fair wr. and cloudy. A Cape Hen lighted on the M.T.G Yard. Many pieces of rock weed.
4 Thick misty wr. Saw what the whalers call a Right Whale This is the Bone Whale & has two blowholes, the Spermaceti having only one.
7 Let water into the hold & worked the pumps to ventilate the ship.
8 Thick wetting mist In all steering sails
10 Thick rainy wr. Fires all night to dry cloaths & air the ship.
1 Squally wind shifted suddenly. In 2nd & 3rd reefs
4 Fresh gale and cloudy wr. out reefs
7 Set Fore T.M. steering sail Saw several Cape Hens rock weed Oceanic birds
8 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast. Sweet wort at 10 OClock Krout as usual & bore cole in the peace for dinner.
11 Washed & dried ship with fires saw every man clean dressed Performed Divine Service.
12 Fresh breezes & fair wr. Sent a little fresh pork on board the Assistant by a line & float.
The air pleasant & free of moisture.
1 Fresh breezes & fair wr. Four Cape Hens flying around us some Albetrosses, Sheerwaters & Mother Careys Chicken
4 Fresh gales & cloudy wr. Sun out at times. As I expected the wr. to keep fair I steered to the NE with an intention of seeing Bountys Isles. Worked the pumps as customary.
8 The gale increasing in 3rd reefs.
11 Strong gales & thick misty wr. Close reefed the Top Sails & furled the Miz. TS Fore sail in the Brails.
4 The gale still increasing. Reefed the Fore Sail & kept it in the Brails.
6 Hard gale & thick misty wr. Furled the Fore TS & down Top G. Yards.
8 Ditto wr. Served hot breakfast & sweet wort as usual portable soup & bore cole thickened with oatmeal for dinner & vinegar as usual on this day.
11 Cleaned & aired with fires Bent the Storm Stay Sails. Saw many seals and much rock weed. Oceanick birds
12 A hard gale & thick misty wr. The Assistant in Compy under close reefed Main TS and reefed Fore Sail & us under close reefed M. TS & Fore Sail in the Brails. Much sea. Made the sweet wort stronger by ½ more of malt.
No observation.
1 A hard gale and thick misty wr. and much sea.
2 Seals, rock weed & many Oceanic birds.
4 The wind not so strong. Set the Fore Sail.
6 Light rain. Let fresh water into the Ship and pumped it out as usual to ventilate the Ship. Kept fires in all night.
11 Set the Fore TS.
3 Shortened sail for the Assistant occasionly
4 Strong gales & thick misty wr.
6 Wind moderationg made more sail saw Cape Hens and a Seal.
8 Fresh gale & wet misty wr. Served a hot breakfast as usual. Sweet wort at 10 OClock Krout as usual.
9 Cleaned & dried with fires
12 Moderate & thick rainy wr. A high following sea. Under dble reef TS & Fore Sail. Broached a puncheon of Spruce Beer for the People.
Assistant in Compy No obs.
Taylor employed daily mending cloaths.
1 Wind suddenly lessened with thick rainy wr. Got Top Gall Yards up.
4 Inclinable to calm Ship great motion. Unbent the M.T. G. S. to repair & bent the new one.
6 Made more sail. Worked the pumps as usual
8 A continuance of wet weather Kept a fire all night to air Ship and dry cloaths.
12 Very heavy squalls of rain
3 Strong hail storms. Shortened sail occasionally.
8 Fresh gale & fair wr. Served thick gruel & portable soup for breakfast.
10 Sweet wort at 10Clock & bore cole in the pease for dinner, with some sour krout as usual.
11 Cleaned & dried Ship with fires
12 Ditto wr. The Assistant in Company. In these strong winds I am always obliged to spare her much sail. I am now under Top Sails & F.T.M. steering sail & could carry T. Gall Steering Sails & increase our going between 2 & 3 miles per hour. -
1 Mod. gale & fair wr. Employed mending sails, spinning spunyard & making points.
4 Squally with showers and wind varying three points. Ship much motion.
6 Worked the pumps to ventilate & keep the Ship sweet. In 1st reefs and Lower Steering Sail.
10 Fine night set M.T.M. Steering Sl.
4 Squally with rain. In M.T.M. Steering Sl.
6 Out reefs & set Lower Steering Sail. Saw two Cape Hens a small species of whale rock weed & Oceanic birds.
7 Strong breezes & fair wr. Served hot breakfast as usual.
10 Sweet wort at 10 OClock Krout, bore cole in the Pease for dinner. 11 Washed & cleaned Ship & dried with fires.
12 Ditto wr. The Assistant in Company but am obliged to shorten sail for her & not carry Steering Sails.
1 Fresh breezes & fair wr. Employed as yesterday.
4 Some showers Rock weed seen & Albetrosses
6 Let water into the Ship and worked the pumps as usual. Spoke the Assistant & sent some fresh meat to them
9 Fair wr.
4 Light winds & fine wr.
7 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast Sweet wort at 10 OClock. Krout as usual, & bore cole in the pease for dinner
10 Got all cloaths up to air. Cleaned below aired with fires People empl. mending & washing their linen.
12 Very fine summer day. Broached a Punch. Of good spruce beer
Assistant in Company
[PM]
1 Light winds & very fine wr. I sent the Cutter to bring Lieut. Portlock to dine with me.
4 Mod. and fine wr. Albetrosses. Small blue petrels petterals & a Cape Hen seen
6 Saw two Cape Hens on the water Lieut. Portlock returned to the Assistant. Let fresh water into the Ship & worked the pumps. The Assistants People had some complaints from colds but in general they were all remarkably well.
10 In 1st reefs. Fires all night to air the Ship.
4 Fresh breezes & cloudy wr.
7 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast. Sweet wort at 10 OClock Krout a half pint per man as usual.
9 Cleaned & aired Ship with fires. Saw a flock of Albetrosses on the water Rock weed & a Cape Hen.
12 Sailmakers mending sails. Fresh gales & dark cloudy wr. Under tripple reefed Fore TS & double reefed main TS.
Assistant in Company. No observations.
1 Fresh gales and dark cloudy wr. Three Cape Hens about all the afternoon
4 Thick misty wr. In 3rd reef Main TS & down T.G. Yards.
6 Worked the pumps as usual
8 Fires all night to air the Ship
12 Rain
6 Less wind & thick misty wr. Out 3rd reefs
8 Foggy wr. Hot breakfast Sweet wort & krout served as usual & bore cole in the pease for dinner.
10 Cleaned Ship saw every person clean dressed & performed Divine Service.
12 Thick foggy wr. Gave the People a puncheon of very fine spruce beer. Under dble. Reef TS Assistant in Company.
A few Albetrosses & blue petrels terals Saw a patch of rock weed. -
1 Mod breezes and dark cloudy wr & foggy horizon. Out of 2nd reefs.
6 Dark cloudy wr. and misty horizon. Up T.G. Yards Worked the pumps
8 Thick hazy wr. Fires all night to air Ship & dry cloaths
4 Small rain
6 Constant rain & fog
8 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast served sweet wort at 10 OClock - Vinegar & krout as usual & bore cole with portable soup thickened with oatmeal for dinner this being Banyan Day
12 Foggy wr. clearing a little at times. Cleaned & dried with fires. Gave the People a punch. Spruce beer. Some Oceanic birds about & a Cape Hen.
Assistant in Company
Tayler employed daily, mending cloaths
1 Light winds & foggy wr.
2 Saw Albetrosses a species of whale & some rock weed.
4 Sailmakers repairing sails, & Taylers cloaths
6 Let fresh water into the Ship & worked the pumps as usual.
8 Cloudy wr.
4 Misty wr.
5 Found the M.T.M Trustle broke. Secured the Top Gall. Mast
8 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast. Krout & sweet wort as customary.
10 Cleaned Ship & dried with fires. Saw rock weed
12 Fresh breezes & dark misty wr. with a wet & very unpleasant air. Assistant in Compy
No observations.
1 Fresh breezes and dark misty wr.
2 Opened a cask of beef N1394 Cont. 66 dble pieces
4 Cloudy wr. & clearer horizon saw some patches of rock weed
6 Let fresh water into the Ship and worked the pumps as usual to ventilate the Ship.
10 Thick misty wr. with rain many luminous blubbers on the water
12 Squally in 2nd reefs. Fires all night to air the Ship.
3 Constant rain & great head sea
4 Fresh gales & thick misty wrs. In 3rd reef F.T.S & down T.G.Yard.
7 Served a hot breakfast of thick portable soup gruel. - Krout & sweet wort at 10 OClock & bore cole in the pease for dinner.
10 Fresh gale & cloudy wr. In 3rd reef M.T.S. & close reefed the Fore TS handed Miz T.S
11 Cleaned & dried with fires
12 Ditto wr. & much head sea Broached a punch. of good spruce beer for the People. Sailmakers mending sails, and the Taylor my young folks cloaths.
Assistant in Company & sails as well as we do.
We are all well & hearty but myself I am never free of a straitness of skin about my left temple & side of my face Head ache & inclinable to low spirits.
1 Fresh gales and dark cloudy wr. The horizon constantly thick.
3 Sailmakers employed repairing the sails in the cabbin
6 Let fresh water into the Ship & worked the pumps
8 In 4th reef Main TS
10 Fires all night to air the Ship, and dry cloaths
2 Frequent showers of rain
5 Out of 4th reef MTS
6 Saw some weed, & common ocean birds
8 Very damp & misty wr. Served portable soup etc as yesterday
10 Cleaned & dried below
12 Very fresh gale & misty wr. The Sun just observable at times. In 4th reef M. TS. Assistant in Company. Broached a puncheon of spruce beer for the Ships Company
1 Strong gale and dark cloudy wr. with a misty horizon. Bore down to the Assistant. Handed Fore TS
4 Handed M. TS
6 Very unpleasant wr. & damp air. Let fresh water into the Ship and worked the pumps.
9 Fires all night to air Ship.
12 More moderate. Set Main TS.
4 Fresh gales and squally with rain.
5 Set the Fore TS
7 Moderating made more sail
8 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast Krout Sweet wort & bore cole in the pease for dinner.
10 Washed below & dried with fires. Sail makers mending sails.
12 Fresh breezes & cloudy wr. The sun out at intervals but could only get dble alt.
Some Albetrosses & small petrels terals
Assistant in Company. I sent a quarter of mutton to Mr Portlock by a float. They deserve all assistance I can give them.
1 Fresh breezes and cloudy wr. The sun to be seen at times which enabled me to get a few sights for the variation but no others.
5 A few Albetrosses and [indecipherable] Sheerwaters seen and a patch of weed.
6 Let fresh water into the Ship & worked the pumps as usual.
8 Light winds with flaws at times as come off from land. Some luminous blubbers on the water.
12 Wind seldom steady to three points.
1 Fires all night to air ship.
3 Small rain a times
5 Dark cloudy wr. and light airs. Up T.G. Yards out reefs.
7 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast. - Krout & sweet wort as customary.
9 Cleaned & aired below with fires and washed all dirty linnen.
12 Very cloudy wr. with bright intervals. Assistant in Company.
This wind hangs so like a trade that I dare not steer more to the North.
Greased the masts etc etc. -
1 Light winds and cloudy wr. People employed cleaning & mending cloaths
6 Let fresh water into the Ship and worked the pumps as usual.
8 Many luminous blubbers on the surface of the water.
10 Calm at times. Fires all night to air Ship.
1 Light breezes & cloudy wr.
4 Set steering sails.
6 Mod. & cloudy wr.
7 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast. - Krout & sweet wort Bore cole in the pease for dinner.
9 Cleaned Ship mustered the Ships Company Performed Divine Service
12 Fresh breezes & cloudy wr. All sails set. Assistant in Company. -
1 Fresh breezes and cloudy wr.
2 Many Albetrosses.
5 Let fresh water into the Ship & worked the pumps. In 1st reefs.
8 Fresh gales & squally wr. Fires all night to air Ship.-
10 In 2nd reefs
12 The sea full of luminous blubbers.
4 Out 2nd reefs
7 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast. Krout, vinegar & bore cole mixed with portable soup & oatmeal for dinner.
10 Cleaned below sailmakers rep. sails hands working up [indecipherable] -
12 Very fresh gale & cloudy wr. Under single reefed TS. many Albetrosses about. Served spruce beer to the People, as usual a punch for one days allow.
A faint glimmer of the sun at which gave us dble alt.
Assistant in Compy & keeps tolerable way with us. -
1 Strong gale and very cloudy wr. & a great haze about the horizon. In 2nd reefs M.TS and 3rd reef Fore TS. Handed Mizen TS.
3 Many Albetrosses.
6 In 3rd reef M. TS. Let water into the ship & worked the pumps.
8 Dark night & strong gale Hauled the Main Sail up.-
9 Fires all night to air the Ship.
12 In 4th reef Fore TS. Many luminous spots in the water.
4 In 4th reef Main TS.
6 Set the Main Sail
8 Dark cloudy wr. & rain served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast - Krout & sweet wort as usual.
10 Thick rainy wr. with squalls - Cleaned & dried with fires. out 3rd & 4th reefs Set Miz. TS.
12 Dark cloudy wr. and fresh gale. No observation.
Sailmakers repairing sails in the cabbin. Taylor mending cloaths.
Assistant in Company.
1 Fresh gales and dark cloudy wr. and small rail.
2 Saw several Albetrosses and Sheerwaters.
4 Squally.
6 Let fresh water into the Ship and ventilated the Ship as usual. Hand Main Sail. In 3rd reef Fore TS.
9 Fair wr. Fires all night to air Ship.
4 Mod. & fair wr. Out reefs and set steering sails.
6 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast - krout & sweet wort as usual bore cole & portable soup mixed with pease for dinner.
9 Employed cleaning below getting water to hand mending sails & cloaths making points & spunyarn.
11 Bent the old Miz. TS.
12 Light winds and fair wr. great swell from the SW. Assistant in Company.
Broached a puncheon of spruce beer. -
1 Light winds and fair wr. unbent the Storm Stay Sails bent the old Fore Sail & Fore Top M. Stay Sail.
3 Exercised at small arms.
6 In Steering Sails Let fesh water into the Hold & worked the pumps to ventilate the Ship. Very great swell from the SW.
9 Fires all night to air the Ship
12 Squally in 1st reefs
4 Mod. & cloudy. scrubbed hammocks
7 Dark & cloudy wr. Albetrosses, Sheerwaters & Mother Careys Chicken.
8 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast krout & sweet wort bore cole in the pease for dinner.
10 Employed cleaning ship - working up junk mending sails & cloaths, & Carpenters making coverings for the locks on the qtr. deck guns.
12 Mod. & fair wr. broached a puncheon of spruce beer for the Ships Company. A great swell from the SW. Assistant in Company.
1 Fresh breezes and fair wr. unbent the Main Sail & bent the old one.
6 Let fresh water into the Ship & worked the pumps.
8 In 2nd reefs.
9 Fires all night to air Ship
11 Squally in 3rd reef Fore TS.
6 Fair wr. Out all reefs & set Steering Sails.
7 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast bore cole & portable soup in the pease for dinner sweet wort at 11 OClock & krout as usual.
9 Empld. washing ship mending sails & cloaths working up junk & Carpenters as yesterday
11 Albetrosses, Sheerwaters and Mother Careys Chicken
12 Fair wr. SW swell altho the wind freshening from the Northward.
Assistant in Company & keeps very good way with us.
1 Fair wr. and mod. breeze People employed washing their linnen.
5 Worked the pumps to ventilate the Ship.
7 In 1st reef of the TS and set Fore Top Mast Steering Sail.
10 Fire all night to air Ship.
2 Small squalls of rain.
4 Fair wr. Set Main T.M. Top Gall. and lower Steering Sails.
6 Saw many birds after a shoal of fish - Porpoises & Skipjacks
8 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast - krout & sweet wort as usual.
9 Cleaned Ship aired with fires in the fore & after cockpits as usual. Empld. mending cloaths working up junk & exercised at small arms and fired.
12 Mod. and pleasant wr. Broached a cask of spruce beer for the Ships Compy. Sent a quarter of mutton on board the Assistant. -
1 Mod breezes and pleasant wr. opened a cask of beef N1050 conts 120 dble pieces
2 People employed mending their cloaths
4 Cloudy
6 Let fresh water into the Ship & worked the pumps. In 1st reefs Set Fore Top M. Steering Sail.
9 Fire all night to air Ship.-
11 Saw a meteor in the SW which lasted a few seconds like a plate of burning brandy held in the wind.
4 Light winds & cloudy. Set Royals & all sail.
7 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast - krout & sweet wort bore cole in the pease for dinner. Bent the old Top Sails.
10 Mustered the Ships Company clean dressed & performed Divine Service
12 Light winds & fine wr. hazy horizon great sw. from the SW. Broached a punch. of spruce beer for the Ships Company. Assistant in Company.
1 Light breezes and fair wr. great swell from the SW Saw some Sheerwaters & a few Albetrosses.
4 Cloudy wr.
6 Worked the pumps as usual.
7 In 1st reefs
1 Fresh breezes and cloudy. Fire all night to air the Ship.
6 Unbent the old M.T.G. Sail and bent the best.
8 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast - krout & sweet wort - bore cole & portable soup thickned with oatmeal for dinner.
10 Exercised great guns & small arms. Marines fired. In 2nd reef T.S.
12 Thick rainy wr. with squalls. Served vinegar to the Ships Compy as customary on this day.-
Assistant in Company
1 Thick rainy wr. with squalls. A very heavy head sea. In 3rd reef Fore TS.
3 Strong gale & squally.
4 Close reefed the Main & handed Fore TS.
6 Worked the pumps as usual.
8 Fresh gales & fair wr. fire all night to air Ship
10 Lightning
12 The head sea prevents us making more sail.
2 Much lightning in the NE
4 Fresh breezes and fair wr. made more sail.-
6 Out all reefs and set Steering Sails
7 Served portable soup etc as yesterday & sweet wort.
9 Exercised great guns & small arms & the marines fired 10 rounds a man.
10 Sailmakers repairing sails Carpenters the boats Boatswain working up junk.
12 Mod. & pleasant wr. Assistant spares us her Steering Sails. Broached a puncheon of spruce beer for the Ships Company.
1 Mod and pleasant wr. Swell from SW
2 Exercised great guns
6 Let fresh water into the Ship and worked the pumps
7 In 1st reefs and set Fore Top M Studding
9 Light airs inclineable to calm
4 Out reefs & set all sails
6 Light winds & fair wr. - Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast sweet wort, krout and bore cole & port. soup in the pease for dinner
8 Exercised great guns & small arms Marines fired Empl. mending sails & awnings Carpenters about the boats cleaned Ship.
11 Fair wr. and very light winds with a swell from the SW.
Assistant in Company
1 Light winds and fair wr.
2 Exercised boats crews at small arms
4 Cloudy wr. and pleasant
6 Let fresh water into the Ship & worked the pumps. In 1st reefs
8 Fair wr.
6 Out reefs
7 Served portable soup gruel for breakfast - Sour krout sweet wort. bore cole in the pease for dinner
9 Exercised great guns & small arms Marines fired.
10 Employed repairing awnings, boats & working up junk.
11 Washed & dried Ship with fires.
12 Fair & pleasant wr. & smooth water. Assistant in Company. Broached a puncheon spruce beer. Saw some Skipjacks. No birds
1 Fair & pleasant wr. and the sea very smooth.
3 Exercised boats crews at small arms.
4 Cloudy wr.
6 Let fresh water into the Hold and worked the pumps to ventilate the Ship. In 1st reefs
2 Much dew
5 Out reefs some Porpoises seen
8 Very cloudy but pleasant wr. - thick portable soup gruel for breakfast - sour krout & sweet wort. bore cole & portable soup in the pease for dinner
10 Employed washing cloaths
12 Ditto wr. only a few Sheerwaters seen very smooth water Assistant in Compy
1 Mod. & cloudy wr. sent the small Cutter on board the Assistant for Lieut. Portlock to dine with me.
3 Saw two tropic Birds and three others which I could not determine whether they were oceanic or sea shore birds.
5 Exercised small arms & Marines fired. Painted the Launch.
6 Lieut. Portlock returned on board. I received a very happy account from him of the good health & conduct of his People.
8 In 1st reefs
10 Squally wr. In 2nd reefs
2 Thick rainy wr.
8 Dark cloudy wr. Breakfast etc as yesterday. Cleaned below & aired with fires. People mending their cloaths. Punished James Davies with 12 lashes for disobeydience & insolence to his Sergeant.
12 Wind shifted suddenly & weather cleared out reefs
Assistant in Company
Broached a puncheon of spruce beer for the Ships Company.
1 Mod. breezes and fair wr. Out all reefs & set Steering Sails
3 Saw a tropic bird the long feathers of the tail red.
4 People employed mending cloaths
6 Let fresh water into the Ship and ventilated with the pumps as usual
8 In starboard Steering Sails
1 Fresh breezes and fine wr. in Steering Sails & 1st reefs Shortened sail occasionally for the Assistant.
5 Out reefs & set Steering Sails
7 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast - krout sweet wort at 10 OClock - bore cole in the pease for dinner
9 Mustered the Ships Company clean dressed & performed Divine Service. A more healthy set of men were never seen.
11 saw three tropic birds.
12 Fine wr. swell from the SW. Broached a puncheon of spruce beer for the Ships Company. - Assistant in Company
1 Mod. breezes and fine wr. Three tropic birds about and a small bird that flies like a plover same as on the 31 last.
7 In Steering Sails & first reefs. Set Fore Top Mast Steering Sail.
4 Wind seldom steady to 2 or 3 points
6 Made all sail.
8 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast - Sour krout vinegar - sweet wort bore cole with portable soup thickened with oatmeal for dinner.
10 Washed below & dried with fires & prepared the Galley for washing with boiling water to kill cockroaches & vermin Exercised the marines & fired.
12 Painted boats bottoms fine wr. swell from the SSW
1 Mod. breezes and fair wr. Washed between decks to kill cockroaches which were beginning to breed about the galley.
4 Lost a log & line great swell from the South.
6 Let fresh water into the Ship & ventilated with the pumps.
7 In 1st reefs & set Fore T.M. steering sail.
8 Fresh gale
1 A little squally with light showers
6 Scrubbed the hammock cloths served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast. aired bedding & gave clean hammocks. Red the Articles of War etc. served slops & tobacco sour krout & sweet wort.-
12 Strong trade, fair wr. and hazy all sails set. Broached a pun. spruce beer for the Ships Compy. Saw flying fish. -
Assistant in Compy. -
1 Fresh trade, fair wr. and hazy.
2 Flying showers Got the forge up
5 A hammock fell overboard Tacked Ship & sent a boat after it. Made sail
6 Let fresh water into the Ship & worked the pumps. In 1st reefs
8 Lightning in the North.
2 Lightning in the NE
5 Scrubbed hammocks. Saw flying fish & two tropic birds. out reefs & set all steering sails.
8 Served portable soup gruel for breakfast krout sweet wort at 11 OClock bore cole & portable soup in the pease for dinner.
9 Cleaned Ship painted boats. Exercised Marines at small arms & fired
11 Armourer at the Forge.
12 Squally with small showers. Broached a punc. Of spruce beer for the people.
Assistant in Company. -
1 Fresh breezes and fair wr. with some flying showers.
3 Exercised at small arms
4 Fair wr.
6 Let fresh water into the Ship and ventilated with the pumps.
8 In steering sails & first reefs
4 Out reefs and set steering sails.
5 Hazy wr.
6 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast krout sweet wort bore cole in the pease for dinner
8 Washed & cleaned below - Exercised & fired Armourers at the Forge
10 Saw a low lagoon Isld from SW to W ½ N by the West. Dist. abt 4 or 5 mls, made the Sigl & hauled up for it.
12 Squally wr The Isld. EbyN ½ N 3 or 4 miles to SbyE Ύ E about 5 miles. Tremendous surf on the shore saw dark brown Noddys with a white spot on the head Man of War birds & tropic. A few cocoa nutt trees on SW part No inhabitants. of being near any land whatever. We saw the break of the surf as soon as the Island was discovered. Its extent of coast is about 22 miles - from the east to the West point is 8 miles, and nearly 9 miles from SW to NE across a lagoon which takes up most of the Isle. In some parts it is covered with bushes & some trees common to the se islands in this sea, in others a bare sandy beach, over which in some places the sea broke in a most tremendous manner. On the north side are several very large rocks but in every other place it is a white sandy beach shore on the SW part I saw a few cocoa nutt trees and near the point was a cluster of seven very tall ones remarkable from their situation. l if it is was possible for a boat to land, so high was the surf on the lee side of the island, it was however of too little consequence to me to delay any time in search of it altho I dare say there are many turtle and abundance of fish. I did not see any opening into the Lagoon.
Longitude from a mean of the Time Keepers
. 219:19 E
Ditto by account
218°:24E
Variation compass from fore & afternoon observations 5°:51E
Long by error of T.K.s at Matavai Bay
219:23E
Long by lunar observation reduced up to this day
219:29E
1 Fresh trade and squally wr. with a great deal of haze. Bore away. at 1 the isl. was last seen bearing SE ½ E dist. about 9 miles.
6 Let fresh water into the Ship and ventilated with the pumps.
7 In 1st reefs and furled the Main sail.
10 Squally in 2nd reefs
12 Fair wr. & hazy
4 Out reefs and set steering sails.
6 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast krout sweet wort at 11 OClock. Portable soup & bore cole in the pease for dinner
9 Exercised boats crews and fired Armourer at the Forge Carpenters finishing the boats People washing.
12 Fair wr. but extremely hazy broached a puncheon of spruce beer for the people. Saw a piece of wood like a rough stave. Assistant in Company
1 Fresh trade and hazy wr. Saw Flying Fish & Mother Careys Chicken.
2 Exercised the Marines at fireing at a target They put in 1/3 of the number of shot fired.
4 People employed mending cloaths
6 Let fresh water into the Ship and worked the pumps as usual. In steering sails & 1st reefs.
8 Fine bright moon light nights but the clouds passing so thick cannot get observations.
4 Out reef and set steering sails
6 Served thick portable soup gruel for breakfast sweet wort at 11 OClock
8 Exercised Marines & boats crews at small arms & fired Armourer at the Forge.
10 saw a forked tail gull like what are called Ganneps in the North Sea they are never far from land .
12 Fair wr. and hazy. Saw two Tropic birds Mother Careys Chicken and a Sheerwater. - Assistant in Company.
1 Fair wr. and hazy. Armourer at the Forge.
3 The Surgeon examined the Ships Company to discover those who were tainted with the venereal disease.
5 Took an acct of every mans cloaths to prevent their trafficking them away.
8 Fine night & bright moon, but too cloudy to make any observations
10 Made all sail possible to enable me to get into Otaheite on to morrow
4 Saw a Tropic & a man of war bird.
7 Thick portable soup gruel for breakfast. Washed & cleaned Ship.-
8 Fine wr. I computed the Isl Maitea to bear N77°W dist. 44 miles the Lat is 17°:53S Longit. 211:58E, by me in 1788
10 Saw the Isl Maitea bearing West. Red orders to establish a friendly intercourse with the Otaheiteans. Saw every person clean dressed, & performed Divine Service. Sent some fresh Pork to Lieut. Portlock
12 At Noon Maitea W Ό S dist.
Assistant in Company
Agreeable to an order I gave the Surgeon dated the 7th, he examined the Ships Company to discover if any disease was among them, particularly the Venereal. His report to me by letter was, he had examined them individually, and found Lieut Tobin, Mr Gillespie- George Harford- John Curry William Morgan five of them to have such remains of it, as might convey the infection, and therefore their intercourse with women should be stopped prevented if possible with respect to any other complaint there was not any, on the contrary the Ships Company was in perfect health.
In the morning as my custom has ever been on this day, I mustered the people. No men were ever in better health not a complaint in the Ship except the Venereals, and on their account only has there been a sick list necessary the voyage.
I gave out orders for establishing an amicable intercourse with the Natives of any Island we might be at, and promised disgrace & punishment to those who disobeyed them exhorted every person to obey them strictly.
In my last voyage I found the Isld. Maitea to lie in 17°:53 South and 211°:58 E. I therefore steered for it to ascertain its situation a second time.
1 Mod breezes and fine wr.
4 Maitea true South dist. 2 miles off shore Four canoes came off to us hove too.
6 Bore away Maitea East 6 miles.
8 In 1st reefs
12 Very squally wr. and heavy showers of rain. in 2nd & 3rd reefs
4 Thick squally wr. - The Isthmus SbW
6 The weather came on so very squally with thick rain that untill a half past 8 I hove too The extremes of Otaheite bore from SSE ½ E to WbS off shore abt 5 leagues.
9 Fresh breezes & cloudy. The highest mountain of Moreah and Point Venus on at WbS ½ S
11 Hauled round the Dolphin Bank & worked up into Matavai Bay where I anchored in 9 Fms. & moored with an open Hawse to the sea Point Venus N30E 2/3 of a mile, West Head of Tarra S25°W, East Head S3°W 1 mile End of reef N10°W Morai Pt at Oparre S40W Extremes of Morea S11°W to S88°W, its high mountain S76°W the Bt Br lay in 15 fms.
Remk recognised me. The superior man said he was the Erreerahigh of the Isl, but I soon found he was deceiving me, a circumstance not at all uncommon among these people he had an European shirt on which he said was given to him by one Pahteenee but I could not make who this Pahteenee was He was desirous to go to Otaheite in the Ship, and on my refusing him, he told me he would follow tomorrow. He said two Ships had passed almost 3 months ago, but he knew not from what country they came. The lee side of this isld. has no plantations on it, it being so remarkably steep to the summit of the mountain that scarse any soil will lie on it. The weather side appeared cloathed with cocoa nutt trees.
Remk in Matavai Bay Otaheite
Tuesday April 10th 1792n noes off to me, but a sufficiency of hogs, breadfruit and cocoa nutts to feed every person sumptuously. My vissitors were the same as yesterday, & Iddeeah assured me a ca n noe was sent away to Moreah for Tynah her husband and his Father & Mother These People are necessary to my well doing, notwithstanding Iddeeah & Orreepyah seem sufficient to effect my plans, assisted by Otoo who yet a boy continues to be instructed by them. Tomorrow I intend to pay him a visit, and my endeavours will be to establish a peace, which I have some hopes will be a lasting one. Nothing could exceed the joy of these people at seeing me.
Your most able servant Matthew Weatherhead.
Parry Otaheite March 29th, 1792"
Sir the Chief Mate and Carpenter will explain the matter more clearly if required. M.W.
On enquiry I found that the Matilda Captain Weatherhead, and Mary Ann Capt. Munro were two ships that had been at Port Jackson with convicts. They left England the 27 March 1791 arrived at Port Jackson 1 August 1791 & sailed the 28th Dec 1791 bound to the coast of Peru. on the 14th Feb 1792 both Ships anchored in Oaitepeha Bay, where having got a plentiful l supply of hogs & fruit, they sailed the 17th after a stay of two days. A few days after, they sailed the Masters of the Ships agreed to part company, and to meet again in the latitude of 10 degS when they should arrive on the coast to fish for whales.their with them, she therefore proceeded to Matavai & joined the party that had got there before them afterwards, in the course of eight days, the men who had landed at Attahooroo also came to join their companions. It however appeared sothe Matavai destroying houses & all the provision kind they could lay their hands on. The Matavians made very considerable resistance, still retain their Booty & at this instant the Parties are violently at war with each other.
The war was interrupted by the arrival of a Schooner, on 25th March, called the Jenny from Bristol burthen 90 tons. This vessel remained here untill the 31st March, when she sailed for the NW coast of America & by this opportunity Captain Weatherhead with two boys & one man, had the means of returningeven to the last that things had not gone well with me, & those who were absent The first questions which they put to Christian were.
Where is Bry?
He is gone to England.
In what ship?
In Tootes Ship.
How come you to meet Toote & where is he?
We met him at Whytootacke where he is going to live, & has sent me for all those who will come & live with him. The Bull & Cow, and as many hogs as you will send him.
What is become of the Breadfruit?
He has sent it home to England with Bligh.several men & women 10 men [indecipherable] and every thing they had. [Note in margin : (a) 10 Men, 2 Boys, 9 Women, 1 Girl see 2nd May]villians he sailed in the course of a day but I cannot find that any person was acquainted with the route he intended to take. found felt greatto hear of these wretches all being in hearing that all these Mutineers were taken by Captain Edwards, except two who were (a) killed by the Indians From the best accounts those taken in the Pandora were as follows -
George Stewart acting Masters Mate
Peter Haywood Mid
James Morrison - Boatswains Mate
Thomas Burkit Ab
John Millward Ab
Henry Hilbrant Cooper
William Muspratt Taylor
Thomas Ellison Ab
Richard Skinner Barber
Michael Byrne Ab
Joseph Coleman Armourer
Charles Norman Carpenters Mate
Thomas McIntosh Crew Killed by the Indians rather than be taken. Some say Thompson killed Churchill who was made Erree of Tiaraboo & the Tiaraboo People killed Thompson
Thomas Burkit, John Millward has each a son, - I have seen none of them and some are said to be dead. The man who Captain Cox left here called Brown, had one son. He sailed with Captain Edwards about 4 months before Captain Vancover arrived.
Thermometer 76 to 82 degrees. Employed caulking the Larboard side getting fresh water off and trading with the Natives for hogs, breadfruit, tarro, plantains, cocoa nutts and some fowls so that every person had much more than the could use. Began to kill some very large hogs for salting. who whom they had already driven from the spot, and whose houses they had burnt burnt all their houses. The afternoon produced the result of their determination, - The Oparre People drove the others to the mountains, killed one man & returned victorious. I have been sol l icited very much to join Otoos army, but I only promised to interfere should the Matavians attempt to go near Oparre, in which case I assured them I would land a party of men & drive them back, which gave great pleasure to our Oparre friends. I also sent the Surgeon of the Matilda to Poeeno and Tabyroo, to order them to return the Captains effects, if they wished to be on good terms with us, & he brought me back word from them, that every thing would be returned. The Surgeon informed me that he was conducted through an immense number of men armed with spears, clubs & slings, who appeared extremely anxious to know the message he had brought, and if I intended to act against them They behaved with much decorum and some attention to the Chief who went with him, for the front of each army was so near to each other as to use their slings; hostilities ceased during the parley. These men when heaped together in such numbers armed with spears 12 & fourteen feet long or more, have a tremendous appearance. They nevertheless do very little mischief to each other for I believe they seldom come to a serious charge, but content themselves with the execution they are able to effect by slinging stones, by which means some men are maimed & sometimes killed.Villians that People whom Christian landed were permitted to have sails & various implements, so that they built of a vessel about 25 or 30 feet longwith two masts, and the Natives tell me that Captain Edwards too this vessel with him, which gave me much pleasure, as I think he may derive a great advantage from her in going through the Straights Endeavour between New Holland and New Guinea I declare I would rather forfeit any thing than to have been in the list of ships that have touched here since April 1789 for me to remain on board untill Tynah comes, and it appears to me that his presence is absolutely necessary to regulate some business which they dare not do without him. of me & confined untill Orreepyah returned on board, when I released him, for Orreepyah told me he was insane. At 8 in the evening the same person was again found swimming about the cable. The night was dark, it was therefore with some difficulty that he was taken. I put him in irons.
Fine wr. wind at ENE and much swell in the Bay. Therm.82 to 84 degrees the heat oppressive. their proper attention & to assort ing the presents I give to them.have fix my post.mutual general consent, all those the others that were on the Island were to be given to me, in that case they had no objection to comply, but in their present situation they could not think of it, as it was necessary for them to preserve some means to regain their property, or to establish themselves in another situation. They would do any thing to serve me, & hoped I would not be angry at with them it was the Mob they said that had taken away the Peoples cloaths, & hauled the boats on shore they endeavoured to restrain them, but could not. If I came after them , they said, all that could be done , was for them to fly farther. They called Matavai my country, and lamented described that the People of Oparre had destroyed all their houses, barked their trees, destroyed what I left among them, & done the country irreparable injury. I am sorry to say I find it too much the case, it will not however affect my plan, as the plants are numerous.on to morrow, which is much vastly preferable to erecting my own tents.
Thus happily we were going on well. And I got ready a party of 27 men & officiers under the Command of two Lieutenants Lieut Guthrie, & Lieut Pearce all capable of bearing arms, twenty of them being Marines.acts to provide against the consequences of any delay I may meet with in my passage to Timor.forwardly nearly fitted up that I determined to land the People in the morning. I have at present given up all thoughts of going to Oparre, as there is a risk in getting the Ship in & out and I have a chance, or rather certainty of fine weather at this season of the year, which will render my situation here more elligible.got employed in making matted matts of cocoa nutt ready for coverings to the plants which can be taken off and put on occasionally, and the Chiefs are highly pleased that King George has again sent for the breadfruit. Mr Guthrie, - Lieut. Pearce of the & the [indecipherable] of the Marines with his party and those of the Assistant amounting to 20 men and three non Commissioned Officers (a Mate & two Midshipmen) to guard our Breadfruit Walk. I ordered also the Surgeon of the Matilda to be of the Party who with the two Gardeners Botanists made 27 men capable of using arms.n oes about the Ship but very sufficient supplies. Carpenters employed caulking the larboard bends finished salting 4 hogsheads of pork. n oe with his two wives, Iddeeah and Whyareddee His Father old Otow came in another can n oe. There appeared a natural degree of affection in Tynah & his father that gave me much pleasure. We all thank God (he said to me) that you are safe we were told you were put into a little boat & sent adrift without any thing to eat or drink, and that you must perish. You have a fine Ship now, have you all good men ? Have you a bad man among them? Have you seen King George? What did he say to you? and many other various questions he put to me respecting every person he knew. I asked him how he came to be so friendly to Christian, for that proved to me he was not sincere in what he said he replied I really thought you was living & gone to England untill Christian came back the second time I was then from home, but all my Friends as soon as they heard fromit to the Pandora. Thus he freed himself from any suspicion on my side, and with his usual nature and cheerfullness regained my esteem and regard.an object worth their most earnest strenuous endeavours to persuade me to engage with them but they had the good sense not to be seriously offended at my refusal, when I told them it would interfere with the busyness I was sent on upon I however still threatened the advance party unless they brought in the arms & money.to hadwho whom I had confined for being about the Assistants cables in the night, laughed at me exceedingly for confining a mad man, - Nainaivah, as he called him, which also implies foolish. At his request he was liberated, & told
not to come any more near the ships.
I had forgot to mention that I saluted Tynah on his arrival with 10 guns.to them, and my saluting on his arrival delights him. He says, it will show all his enemies that we are good friends. He has none but friends about him just now, for the Matvai People are fled, and their habitations all destroyed, - the whole plain seems desolated, which I have seen replete with cheerfulness and wealth plenty. By The Matavai People being away, I have lost an intercourse with full two thousand people persons so that I have not half the bustle I had in my last voyage, which is so far in some respects a fortunate circumstance, as my nervous head ach is being at times scarecely bearable.
turned out & potted a new. I have got every duty goes with regularity It always takes some time before this can be effected, coming when we arrive among Indians; but it is a material point to be gained. Mr. Smith & Mr Whiles The Gardeners have every assistance, - some of their men were employed by me in my last voyage, which is of considerable advantage to them.
(a) The Mother is the woman that Stewart always kept on board the Bounty.
At Oatepha Musquets 5 Pistols 5
At Itteeah Musquets 1
Attahooroo Pistols 5
Matavai Musquets 5
Paparrah Musquets 8 Pistols 6
Ditto one swivel
Total Musquets 27 Pistols 21
[Note in margin Pots Yesterday 115 + 149 Total 264]
In the evening Tynah & his wives returned from Oparre, - they brought with them a hog and a quantity of dressed breadfruit as a present to me. As they remained on board, I was obliged as usual to give up the cabbin to them, where three men servants their King & his wives, after eating a hearty supper, slept upon the same floor, and by the side of each other. Iddeeah their having lost their eldest daughter, Terreenaorah, of by an illness called by that name, (a) which they describe to me by coughing. Whenever a child dies the parents or relation take the name of the disease if a dozen children die of different diseases, the parents have as many different names, or give them to their relations, and may be called by either, but commonly by the last. It is common to all ranks of people.
[Note in margin Pots Yesterday 264 + 111 Total 375]
Everything is now going on well at our Post , and the Natives behave in a very orderly and good natured manner I have now my shed for the plants completed, and the Botanists Gardeners accustomed to the work 111 pots of plants were potted to day. do nothing to not induce him to come on board, or to get off his mans shoulders, where he rides as easy as any of us would do on a horse, About 20 or 30 young men attend him, & he shifts from one to the other without the least inconvenience, as they become tired, - I cannot get Tynah, or any one to tell me the exact time when he will be permitted to walk, any other way otherwise than by saying, when he is a man. At home he runs about as other boys. to eat it, or smell to of it.
The men belonging to the Matilda who have lived at Oparre, brought me word, that they had seen a white man at times who would not speak English to them, but had spoken at one time to a boy of theirs, and therefore they suspected he might be one of the Bountys people. They asserted also, that he had been attempting to disfigure himself by tying a string around his head across his nose to flatten it. They told me the story clearly and distinctly The Oparre people denied the fact, all our friends there, declared there was no such person, and I was beginning to suspect their fidelity, when Iddeeah said perhaps they mean Taow" the affair was now unravelled, and like a sailors story there was not a of truth in it, - for the person was an Otaheitean, but one of those lapses of nature for which it is not possible to account for - His skin & hair are being white, and he is the same person I have spoken of in my last voyage. Strange it is to me that these people were not content in with representing the case to me as the appearance of the man had impressed it on their minds, but they would willfully add without wantonly adding to it, that he had conversed with the boy. - Such is the determined desire of most seaman to tell unbounded falsehoods
[Note in margin- Pots yesterday 375 + 196 Total 571]
Employed caulking the sarboard side cleaning ship, & mending cloaths. Very few canoes off to us, but we have nevertheless sufficient supplies.
Tynah, as usual, is generally on board with me No strangers have been yet to see us & we are remarkably quick & free from bustle, both here and at the post. Our plants are taken up very advantageously, from the soil being moist and adhering to the fine fibrous roots, and I have every thing goes going on as well as I can possibly wish.mark of being thrown up from a vulcano. I made several enquiries among the Chiefs about it, who assured me it came out of one of their ovens, where, by the heat of the fire the stones frequently take that change. Sir William Hamilton says that the materials of lava are common matters to be formed every where in the Earth (Viz) stones, metallic ores, clay, sand etc and that the hottest furnaces would not by any means be [indecipherable] able to bring them into any dgree of fusion, since the materials of glass cannot be melted without a great quantity of fusible salts such as alkalies, nitre etc mixed along with tem. I found it would attract the magnetic needle. l supplies.occasioned by in consequence of the late war, - few houses remained, and all those places that swarmed with inhabitants had scarcely an individual to account for the calamity. At this time peace is said to be established, but the Matavai Chiefs do not wish to send to me either the money or arms, and therefore keep in the mountains, notwithstanding they send to me fair promises that the money shall be returned. On this account we have but few Natives about us, only the Oparre People visited us. relations not feeding themselves it is a degree of mourning that lasts three months. l supplies of cocoa nutts, breadfruit, plantains, tarro & hogs. the a very great degree. It is a rare thing to see a person dressed in a neat piece of cloth, which formerly they had in abundance & wore with much ellegance. Their general habiliments are now, a dirty shirt, an old coat, jacket or an old waiscoast, so that they are no longer the clean Otaheiteans, but in appearance a set of raggamuffins with whom it is necessary to have great caution in any intercourse with them.
his Mother.
Employed in the hold and caulking the starboard side of the Ship. Very plentiful l supplies to day. Filled 99 pots with breadfruit, plantains and one of vees.-in it . There was an interval in the Prayer when the Priest took off all his cloaths, and lifted a bundle like an Egyptian Mummey covered with a red cloth from under its vault into a kind of trough on the top of it It contained (he said) the Etuah & Worrow te (a) oorah and some other sacred things. I requested to have it opened, which at this time he did not like to comply
(a) Many red feathers at .
[Note in margin see 12th July]of , & which has been spoken of with so much wonder & respect, is about 6 feet long, 4 feet wide and 5 ½ feet high. They call it the Ephare no tEtuah, or Ephare Tuah, the House of God; and his Temple Tebbootaboo,ataiah. The wooden arches which are 18 inches high are cut hollow in ribs and are called Avy or Legs There are three arches which support the Morai, but the Ephare Tuah has the interstices filled, so that it forms only one arch on the top of these arches are fastened two troughs, (like mangers) one has a narrow shed over it and is called the House of God, the other is with four rude ornaments is called Morai, The trough however is called Er,roee on the top of the Morai are represented two birds. There is in no part of it, ingenuity or workmanship to recommend it to notice, but its duties and the sacred rights performed to it, among which are the human sacrifices, induced me to be particular in the description.
[Note in margin (a) This place is sacred to the Chief no person ventures near it. He always slept here when it is too late to go to Oparre]is established - Poeeno and Tynah have had a meeting, and it is agreed that Poeeno shall live again at Matavai. They have promised to return C. Weatherheads money, but I am in doubtthat and were not able to perform their promise of going with me to Oparre towards mid day they recovered and were a little ashamed of their conduct, and our excursion was put off until the morning.villains at Otaheite, Otoo made war against the Attahooroo People, and by the aid of the Bountys Men, overcame them. The Marro, the Etuah & Tebbootaboo,ataiah were then seized and brought to Oparre where they will remain.on the Quarter for the plants on the Quarter Deck occupies the space from the M. rigging aft. From the mode of covering I shall adopt I expect they will do better here than in the cabbin and make a making so great an addition to the general stock. I gave up therefore took away all conveniences to myself for the publick advantage, by, allotting the space up to the plants instead of hen coops.means the body was carried about To the right of the Priest were two drums very different in size, and at the distance of 20 yeards in the same direction was the Evatah or Altar, on which were twenty nines dead hogs and a middle sized turtle. On nine stout posts was erected an Ephare Tuah and there were two others on cannoes. Two other Priests assisted Hammennemanne besides two or three inferior People of that Order. I had scarcely been seated a quarter of an hour by the Priests, when the Sun having risen above the trees, caused such a violent stench from the dead body, as forced me to quit the place & take a seat out of the direction of the wind, where our friend Tynah had placed himself under a spreading tree. Otoo was carried about on a mans shoulders talking to us the retentivenessof this mans memory. Taking up His prayer being considered in all its various changes and repetitions, the whole amounted to this.ing that every thing belongeth unto thee. We display our feathers We present our hogs; and all this we do Oh Oro! for we know thou delightest in it our hope & wish is to do as thou desirest, prosper us therefore in all our undertakings, let us conquer our ennemies and live in plenty.
[Note in margin called Wow,oorrah]
The dead body we saw was brought from Moreah four or five days back it was a sacrifice made by the People of that island and sent to Otoo. The ceremony of presenting the eye was not performed at this time, it was done when the body was first landed. is sacrificed to their God & implore assistance and success. On a victory, it is their most sacred way of returning thanks. The wretch on whom the lot falls is no estimation and is always called a bad man.
On my return to Tynah, the people showed me a large drum in one of their houses, that Christian had brought from Toobooi. It appears that he this wretch had gone to Toobooi to settle, but in finding the inhabitants inimicable, he was forced to leave from it, & returned to Otaheite, where part of his crew gang left him as I have before related. who the Erree,raigh shall be pleased to name, it gives all the Chiefs great pleasure to know of it being performed, & they feel themselves highly honored in having their names called over. It was is performed thus The Priest collected a number of leaves & standing up, he called over every name as Tynah directed him, or as he knew to be Tynahs his wish, & each set of names he numbered with a leaf. These leaves were then given to Otoo who was by, on a Mans shoulders, & he held them until all the friends were called over, among whom were ourselves & the Ships Part of this ceremony myself, Mr Bond & Mr Harwood the Surgeon who was with me, assisted in, by the help of Tynah, who told us alternately what we had to say. The first word was Errow,wow,ah which signifies the Kings good wished to the person whose name follows. -
The Morai or Temple where the ceremony was performed at , is an oblong pile of stones about 10 yds long & four feet high, (b) on the top of which was stuck about fourteen rude ornaments, on some of which was had a resemblance of a man & on others a bird The whole range of them they called Tebbootaboo,a,taiah, as they did also similar ornaments (a) on the Ephare Tuahs that were on the cannoes The only interpretation I can give to Tebbootaboo,a,taiah is that it is their Great Temple or principal place of worship.
[Note in margin (b) A pavement was in the front where the Priests sat & leaned their backs against stone posts for that purpose. (a) See 26th]
[Note in margin See acc. Of the Evatah on the 30th following]with the most attentive and kind welcome ever men had .
Our conversation turned various ways. They spoke in a very reprehensive manner of Christian, and said they were very happy that Captain Edwards had carried so many of his People them away. Coleman the Armourer they said cried when he spoke of me, and had told them that he was not concerned in the busyness & that he had declared so to me when I was driven away from the Ship, on this account they said they had considered him as a good man, and were glad to hear I had forgiven him. - Churchill & Thompson they said lived at Tiarraboo, where being jealous of each other, Churchill induced the Chiefs to endeavor to steal Thompsons musquet & pistol. The friends of Thompson informed him of it, he therefore on the first sight of Churchill shot him through the body This produced an utter aversion in the Chiefs to Thompson, they laid hold of him in return,villians effected their own destruction, and avoided the punishment that otherwise awaited them.how it was, that the Marro which we had known to be kept at Attahooroo together with the God Oro and Temple Tebbootaboo,ataiah, should be now at Oparre. The general answer was that they had been at war with the Attahooroo People and had seiged their God and brought him to Oparre. This I find really to have been the case, and that the Bountys People assisted with their musquetry.
Mustered the Ships Company saw them all clean dressed performed Divine Service. Gave leave for six men to go on shore for exercise.
Plentifull supplies of fruit, roots & hogs.
This woman with several others had been with Christian to Tobooi, - she related that they stayed two months there with the ship Christians intentions were to settle at that island, and he had begun to build houses and a battery to defend himself with the Ships guns. Teeneerow and Arro,wy,taihoah two principal chiefs of the island on seeing his their proceedings objected to his their stay, - altercations insued, & at last war was declared on both sides, many of the Islanders lost their lives, - Christian however did not find it safe to remain among them, and therefore embarked with all his party. They arrived at Otaheite two days afterwards, when such different ways of thinking arose among them; and the principal chiefs treated Christian with so much coolness, that he determined to part with those who were discontented, & immediately to setit took place in the course of 16 hours, and the Bounty left Matavai with some Natives (a)
[Note in Margin - (a) 2 Tobooi men. 1 Otaheite man, 2 boys, 6 women] on board never to return again. The only knowledge of his proceedings in future was that he declared himself openly his intentions to look for some land that would suit his plan of making a settlement, and that then he would haul the Ship on shore and break her up.as any two villians could be and so were the rest of them They deserved to be killed she said, but hoped those who had cried for me would not be hurt. She agreed with Tabyroos acct. that Coleman was obliged to swim from the Ship Christian by stealth, for he was detained as being a Blacksmith & a usefull man.tye my hands, and said that no person beside myself were tied.
It appears that the Ship lay in an open road at Toobooi and rode out some gales of wind.
Tynah, Otow, & Oreepyah with their wives are always with me at dinner we continue on the best footing with the Natives, and our plants thrive so fast as to give s me great satisfaction Out of so great a number a few are not so flourishing & I have therefore directed about 68 to be shifted.
[Note in margin Ships draught of water 15:8 abaft, 14.5 forward]the loss of & losing their jackets and brace of pistols.on giving to give the Chiefs no uneasiness about the matter, & would not have them spoken to about it. The theft was very unfairly and unjustly thrown on a servant of Orreepyahs, when the fact was, the gentlemen had picked up a worthless fellow of Itteeah, and had fancied him like a man they had seen, who they were told belonged was belonging to Oreepyah.
[Note in Margin Began to shift some plants]
Employed in caulking In the Hold about the rigging. Making extra places for the plants making tubs & boxes to contain them. Sufficient supplies of breadfruit cocoa nutts, vees, plantains & tarro. Finished caulking the sides & bends.On In Oberreeroah, excepting that she has grown a little more corpulent than when I last saw her, time has made no alteration. Her corpulency has ever since I knew her, been a burthen to her & as it creates indolence she finds a difficulty in walking, As coming up over our lofty sides was troublesome, I gave them great pleasure by hoisting her them into the Ship in a chair.
Otow Father
Oberreeroah Mother
Toury Eldest daughter & 1st child
Tynah Eldest son & 2nd child
Oreepyah Third child & son
Whydoo,ah Fourth & a son
Wow,wo Fifth & a daughter
Teppahoo Sixth & a son
[Note in Margin Mr Norris saw 6 cows & one bull]
There has been a great deal of art in this busyness in which they have nevertheless failed in Hammennemanne was taught to tamper with me, and had artfully recommended to me, as a thing between ourselves, to ask Poeeno on board, and then make a prisoner of him untill the arms were returned. I would have done it had I been ready to sail, or my plants safe, but at present it particularly behoves me to be quiet.
This day we shifted 60 pots and planted 6 tubs & boxes.
Our supplies to day were no so plentifull, we are however able to keep four and five days hogs always in the sty, and fruit & roots we have sufficient. Some of our plants have already given fine shoots, and there are very few that have not evident signs of vegetation. A few were still backward, we therefore shifted 26 pots and planted 14 tubs & boxes. for harmony, there is notwithstanding such sameness in the airs, and dull heavy sounds, that we soon become tired of the performance altho the Natives are delighted with it. These kind of amusements were formerly called Haivahs, but the word Haivah being given to Tomarree Erree of Papparroah as a name, they are now called Oope,owpah.
[Note in margin a dwarf seen]
The body tolerably proportioned, but the the thighs, and legs particularly, were very short his height was 31 inches, and all the People agreed that he would never be any taller His name was Tommah, but he was commonly called Hai,ah or Dwarf. He was without four of the upper fore teeth, all the rest were perfect.
Total of Breadfruit
Pots 1090
Tubs 17 + 7 See 26 May
Boxes 26
Pots of Vees 15
Ditto of Rattahs 25
Ditto of Ayyahs 25
Ditto of Oraiahs 12
Ditto of Pee,ahs 9
Ditto of Ettow 6
Ditto of Mattee 6that he only wanted some person to come for fetch it, lest by sending it by with any of his own people some accident might happen and prevent my getting it after all his trouble In consequence I directed Mr. Norris with the Matildas people to go for the money tomorrow.
Employed the Carpenters making extra places for the plants, and at work on the launch Some hands going on with the rigging. she expressed herself against Capt. Vancouvers Ship, - it was there he caught his illness as did many others." I endeavoured to do away the belief she had of the disease originating with the Discovery, but it was to no effect, she continued firm in her opinion She described the disease as every person has done before to be a flux & severe vomiting. I made her up a present of every article I had. The cause of the This sacrifice from Wannah, was owing to his not having assisted Whydooah his brother Chief in getting the arms from Tabyroo; and being but he was the means of their being carried off. This gave great displeasure to Tynah & Otow Wannah solicited forgiveness and permition to live on the footing he had done before with them, but they refused untill after many concessions, they agreed to take him in favor again on his presenting, a sacrifice to the Erreerahigh. Upon any of these occasions it is sufficient for the dead body to be sent to the Erreerahigh, wrapt up in a platted cocoanuts branch fastened to a pole by which it is carried. to carry it . The body to day was in a cannoe with only man to conduct it.arrive at discover the cause, to my satisfaction, of the sacrifice from Tiarraboo, all that I can make of it I believe it was solely an act of devotion. the second son Tynahs second son was sent to Tiarraboo to be elected, or more properly, acknowledged Erree of that part of the island. originates the venereal disease which prevails very much originated it is now infected with in a dreadful degree
Mahow whom I have mentioned on the 4th last has only an honorary title on account of the great esteem that Moduarro had for him. I imagine Tettoo,anooee is about 4years old.were determined not to give them up.Mr. Ridgeway The Surgeons 1st Mate brought a guinea to me to day which wa offered to him by one of the Natives for a knife it is part of Captain Weatherheads money.
Remk Friday May 11th 1792 or nor even that will prevent these wretches from committing this infamous act among these poor people. so inclineable to warp and split. Small spans however we find strong & usefull for such purposes as do not require them to be cut out of their natural shape. with Hammannemanne, came to take their leave of me on their going to Paparrah to see their relation Tomaree, the Chief of that place, who lies very ill & is expected to die. But their principal object is to see what can be done to take whether they can bring away some musquets which the People of that District are in possession of from the Seamen of the Matildas boat who put in there. Nothing can equal the rage these people have after arms there is nothing they would not sacrifice to procure them, but the parties who have them in possession I believe are too wise to part with them. Could the Otoo family get arms I have no doubt but they would govern the whole country a right which they say is inherent in themselves. give exert his interest that they might be so provided for them to be so equipped with presents of different kinds, as to would insure them a welcome reception.the most things he asked for, and they left us with light hearts, dressed in European clothes, and with a large quantity of iron work and trinkets in their bundles. ige ingenious device invention of Dr. Fothergill; with this difference, that [indecipherable] I cannot assert there is any cow dung in the composition.Villians Mutineers regulated their domestick concerns, & the account I have received of them, give the clearest proofs they enjoyed their situation. if it was possible burthened with the heinous crimes they had been guilty of happily, perhaps it was ordained they should be entrapped through their own seduction
If it was possible for them to do so, burthened as their minds must have been with the recollection of the Injustice & Cruelty they had committed against me & the people whom they forced out of the Bounty. -Remk Saturday 12th May 1792 Matavai Bay [indecipherable] calms & sultry wr. latter part fresh breezes at EbN. Therm from 80 to 82 degrees Employed cleaning Ship and washing and mending clothes. Our supplies just sufficient for us to keep it, without by not doing any work. -l ones so as to be ready for shifting after another weeks tr ial happily I have but few that will require it & on the whole every thing turn out as my anxious mind wishes it. ly stock in hand. Our Carpenters are employed in making places for the plants & the Boatswain about the rigging.had felt, and which had awakened him, to be real; went to sleep again. What is remarkable, I found on enquiry, that the Centinels on deck, and the one at my cabbin door (whose walk is before Mr Bonds and guards each equally) and the mate & Midshipman of the watch were all attentive to their duty.to warned all their People of the punishment that will attend them. -
Our plants appear to thrive - we have very few in a doubtful state - up to this day, the total number of plants that have been shifted amount to 270 - See 6th May.with an old man in the country whom I have spoken of as Mr. Nelson's Friend for the care he has taken of some Shaddock trees. - and which fully occupy my time. - The Matavians are all absent, the plain is destitute of inhabitants except a few strangers or people who do not consider it their fixed place of abode. - Poeeno & Tabyroo are fled and everything respecting the war is over and peace established. -The cause of our being scantily supplied with provisions I find to be owing in some measure to curiosities brought on board - most of our People & Officers have their Tyos & these are most wealthy of the inhabitants, they therefore while they find their friends pleased with trifles, neglect to bring supplies, & are incouraged in it, as they value the curiosities more than anything eatable while they conceive it must be found them, altho every person receives the market price, from the People who are authorised to trade, when he brings any article of food which has been brought on board to him by his friend. - I forbad any thing but food to be brought on board the Ship. - The next month & the latter part of this is considered a scarce time for breadfruit. fact prove these people to have such wonderfull expertness in thieving as exceeds all beliefs. -found seen about The Assistant with a design of doing some mischief, the Boats were immediately sent after him, but the night was so dark he escaped. - I have frequent conversations with Tynah respecting the want of power or order in his government to prevent thieving. He has told me that only good people could be governed by advice, Townahs (or Rogues) he said would at all times when it was in their power, do mischief & committ thefts, and could only be guarded against by a strict watch, and [indecipherable] desired whenever we had it in our power to put them to death, that an example might be made to deter others. - I cannot discover that they have any custom or law which inflict punishment for particular crimes by trial - The strongest man, or the most powerfull Chief decides in his own cause, but there is an appeal from the inferior people of every district to their superior Chiefs who judges fairly of the matters in dispute.is sure to produces additional exertions & more mirth among the People, from the presents I distribute among them; if any thing is going on I am sure of being to be acquainted of with it . - Including children the number of persons collected were about two hundred - The performers were two men who did the interlude, and a woman & a little girl did the dancing part. The Airarahyre or platted coconutt leaf was as usual brought to me, but not nothing new in the performance.fine convenient places for them on the Quarter Deck and Galleries, and shall sail with every inch of space filled up. - My anxiety moments have been hitherto has been to complete my numbers they are it is now to provide for their security. The greatest circumspection is observed at the Post, which is well guarded to prevent any vicious designs of the Natives, altho I have no reason to suspect them.
[Note in margin -Porpoore]
Mustered the Ship's Company, saw every person clean dressed and performed Divine Service. -so much to my satisfaction as which gave me great pleasure, and I had continual a continuance of satisfactory proofs of the Commanders good conduct.got him free of convulsions, put him to sleep untill the morning, when at day break he rose as well as he had ever been in his life. -There are Many an one however who falls in love desperately where they he can never expect any return to their his affections - and where not even the inclination of the woman is not in bears the least favourable in his favor , In this case, yet he will wander
[Note in margin - (a) Slave or Servant]her at every turning in a disconsolate manner - till being at last comfortless at last he is left without any gratification resource except a very extraordinary and beastly one an unnatural which suggests itself - the beastly swain he follows his the lady and deprives the earth of that which she meant to be deposited in it. Of this strange and unnatural practice liking I have never heard before. I remember an account however of Mullers in his History of Siberia and Russian Discoveries, that among the Kamchadales or Kayacks (I forget which) when a stranger is introduced into the family, the master offers him the prettiest of his daughters or women as a companion to him for that night. On his expressing his approbation, he has presented to him a bason of the women's urine made in his presence, which he is obliged to drink, or forfeit the hospitality and protectionof the tribe he is among.any ceremony attending marriage is not general look out provide for, and take care of themselves.) -abide by the property of the husband, while the others have little or no share. - any further than the husband permits or approves, is considered whoredom & punishable by himself, but while he approves of the man she is connected with they may sleep under the same roof, so that it is not uncommonwith his three wives to sleep on the same floor and they with them & their Gallants.and might reason from thence conclude that the others were concubines and not wives. -on the way back to the parents. but very few people to be seen , gave a solemn cast to every thing about us, the scene was rendered more affecting by a view of the Servants preparing the Tupapow (a). On this stage which is elevated about 6 feet above the ground, fenced round with reeds and neatly ornamented with coloured cloth, leaves and flowers, the body remains untill all that is perishable is gone, the friends then order the bones to be put into the Earth, but it sometimes is the case happens that a particular friend of the deceased will seige the scull and present it to his God at the Morai.
[Note in margin - (a) or Teeapapow ]office it is to perform this Office effect this purpose called Meereeteeappapow - They are similar to undertakers, and
When the Chief is to be embalmed, the near friends are said to know nothing of it - after three four or five day that during which the body has lain laid on the Teeapapow the undertaker comes in the night and begins his work - The first thing he does, is to clear the body of its outer skin - this he is done easily, (from the putrefaction which has taken place) by help of a woodscraper - The effect of this operation is, that the body becomes perfectly white with an intire skin as it had before, but the whiteness lasts only for a day or two, during which time the head is ornament with flowers, and the body annointed with oil is exhibited with some pride. -for of the bread kind.with & his Grand Father Otow are gone to some other districts and will not return to us for some time - When I enquired of Oreepyah how many muskets he had taken from the Paparrah People, he felt hurt, I therefore did not banter him with upon his project. -those what I procured on the 26th - these I expect will stand the sea air even when exposed, for they must take their chance upon deck as I have no other place to put them in. - They are all flourishing delightfully.lay hold of me I am almost distracted. My mind being constantly on the stretch will I fear never let suffer me to be free of these complaints untill I return to a cold climate - so that it is remarkably cold, and may have a better effect than the sea water. -We have Several of the Natives apply ing to the Surgeon to cure them of ulcers & sores about different parts of the body, and his opinion, like my account last voyage, is, that the disease is the Scrofula.in that disease.what (which is strange) women are not permitted to be attendants on any of the Royal Family, so that male or female, the children are unnaturally nursed by men. The complaint of the child was said to be in his bowels, & the belly was much distended; but the Scrofula seemed the most alarming disorder symptom for in one groin it had broke out & in the other one swellings which convinced us of the deplorable state of this poor infant. - I told Iddeeah to take better care of her child, and altho I disputed the propriety, she insisted that Whyerreddees attention should be engaged towards it and not particularly hers. - It is not extraordinary that Tynah is not remarkabaly fond of his children, for he is in some degree weaned from them, by the accursed custom of their becoming his superior in rank - on that account no one approaches them but
[Note in margin - (a) See the 8th May]to who gives them suck and the man who is the nurse. - The moments therefore that in which the paternal feeling would be delighted with gratified by the little tricks of its offspring, and view with pleasure the infant progress of the mind
and in which the progress of the infant mind would be observed with delight, are here lost to the Father - When he sees or speaks to his child it is at the distance of ten or fifteen yards, and the man who brings it is often cautioned not to come too near; - thus untill the children become men & women, and he has performed the Ceremony of Oamo (a) do they mix together like other people.Indians Natives joined with us in three cheers. At one O'Clock the Ships fired 21 guns each. To every person was served an allowance of liquor, and the day was spent with great chearfulness & good humour. - At night I had a dozen skyrockets set off, and Mr Tobin having made two small balloons the whole were successfully displayed to the great pleasure & gratification of 600 persons. Mahannah no Erree Brettanee, King George, (the King of Englands birth day - King George) was repeated every minute by the men, women & children. - All the Chiefs were collected about us and drank to His Majesty's good health, and afterwards dined with me. - Tynah got drunk, but the other Chiefs were the better for the wine - They are all very fond of rum, brandy or wine, and will generally get drunk if permitted - twice a day is the course with their Avah, so that some of them have but few hours of the day twenty four when they can be considered sober. - (a) Whydooah remarked as usual to me that the English Avah was better than the Otaheite for if it took away the use of his limbs it never did that of his
[Note in margin - (a) The Brother of Tynah]
Tubs of ditto ditto - 34 - four & five plants in each
Boxes of ditto ditto - 26 - ditto ditto
Pots of Rattahs - 25 - four plants in each
Pots of Oraiahs - 12
Pots of Vees or Avees - 25 - tow & three in some of them
Pots of Oahighyahs - 32 - ditto ditto
Pots of Peeah - 7 - ditto ditto
Pots of Mattee - 6 - ditto ditto
Pots of Ettow - 6 - ditto dittoof an acre of ground provisions, if I except about that quantity of Tarro at Oparre. Never since we knew them could we ever get these articles in any plenty, but their late broils joined with their natural indolence has have most likely been the cause of the present scarcity.use possession of the most valuable of all Fruits of the Earth, the Breadfruit & Cocoanutt.It is very extraordinary shifting The changing of names in this country is very extraordinary. - Upon permission of th Erreerahigh a Chief may take any name he likes, and if it happens to be the name of any particualr article - of day - night or any other known thing, another is thought of by which it may for it to be called. Example - P,morre (the name of Tynah & Iddeeah) is from Po, night, and morre the name of the disease the Child died of. - To make up for the loss of 18 in the language Ooarroo,ee is substitited.-
In the language it means tomorrow, but it is very odd, that in supplying the want of this word they have substituted Ahnonnahigh before & does even now means yesterday. -they it is now known by the term Oopeowpah. -
[Note in Margin - (a) Chief of Papparah & son of Oamo - This was his first name next to Marow & now Heivah or Heivah,row]it & makes it difficult to be understood. with his Grand Father Otow, are still absent. Whydooah is not a constant visitor, as the most of his time is devoted to drinking Avah, and he is in a state of stupefaction. The Erree women are now become fond of this pernicious root, and are genrally drunk once a day.This evening on my coming on shore I was informed by Mr Pearce the Lieut. of Marines that the Sergeant was under an arrest for insolence & contempt to him - He said the charge was, that on asking the Sergeant why he had not employed a party of men as he had directed, and on investigating the cause of his neglect, the Sergeant had with contumacy & disrespect uttered the words "I know my duty as well as any man can show me" & on being threatened to be complained of to me, said with great indifference "Sir, no Person can prove I have said so to you", for no one was present. that in addition to this charge against the Sergeant Mr. Pearce declared he had proof of very great neglect, but that he had hitherto not brought it before me with a hope the man would behave better in future.
I desired the Sergeant might be continued under an arrest untill the morning when I should enquire into the affairn Indian Native was discovered thieving at the Post, and that the Centinel had fired at him.s they dare not come near the Post or Ships after dark, and the Chiefs are so sensible of the propriety & of the prohibition that their constant reply to any complaint is "Why dont you kill them" -any liquor. Wine is now no longer palatable to them, they call for spirits & have given it the name of Avah Tyo, or friendly draught. - It is difficult now to get any information respecting their manners or country, they seem suspicious of every enquiry.of or Alter of Offerings, was a palm stump with a small stage on it, on which was a Cocoa Nutt Grater, some cocoa nutt, Mahie & an empty basket - The whole was fenced in, & I found it was just erected to ensure success to a kind of ware or dam which Tynah has made with stones without Point Venus to catch fish. Prayers have been performed, and the Deity supplicated by Persons of the Preisthood.In the morning I heard the complaint of Lieut Pearce against the Sergeant, and he substantiated charges sufficient against him with a determination to bring him to a Court Martial, as induced me to suspend the man from doing duty as a Sergeant. These charges I directed him to present to me in writing that the Sergeant might be prepared for his defence. I did not think proper to do otherwise with the man as I considered it to belong to a Court Martial to determine, and desired Mr Pearce to remember he was only displaced for the time being & not to be superceded in his office by a Corporal but as a Corporal would do duty where there was no Seargeant. thief that was fired at last night was wounded - shot through the shoulder, and had set off for Tettaha - He was traced about 200 yards by some drops of his blood - it seemed to give pleasure to our friends here but I was it gave me much concerned at the necessity I had been under of giving orders to fire. -
Remk Wednesday 13th June 1792 Matavai Bayonly of Venereals, 19 out of 20 who were in it still remain under careor does any thing pass interesting or worth notice. Tynah Oreepyah & their Brother Whydooah so completely stupify themselves with Avah every day as to have affected their faculties - they have however faithfully promised me to drink less in the future.but Breadfruit, several canoes having brought off fine bunches of Plantains, Tarro & several Hogs - Cocoa Nutts we have in abundance - We speak comparatively when we say moderate supplies - sometimes we have a quantity that which is spoiled because we cannot make use of it, - not one day have we been without a perfect sufficiency.however the case he found himself engaged for the day to direct proper supplies, for them and to amuse them. A Maow,nah or Wrestling Match gave a change to the dull scene we experience every day, but as the Tiarraboo People had only a few champions, a number of fine active boys gave us more amusement than the men. The strangers were rather uneasy at every victory they gained for fear it would displease me, and to the last I could not convince them that I was disinterested.with & his Grand Father Otow would still be absent for some time. It appears tha the purport of this old Mans journey is to collect cloth,Hogs, & whatever he thinks will sell to the People of the Ships, & to make friends of all his Chiefs before I sail.make interest me very much in their well doing anxiously interesting to me . This with various other things respecting our future welfare, astronomical and nautical observations, keep me laboriously employed and labouring altho suffering under a constant Nervous Head ach which sometimes distracts me.
Duftailed & put together perfectly square, & the locked with a bolt all of wood, was made like ours with a key made of a piece of iron - the whole showed so much ingenuity, that I made a present to the man as a reward, and he bartered his chest away in exchange for an English one to one of the Gardeners.a an human sacrifice Iddeeah informed me that the Chiefs of Waennah (called Ohaaine in C. Cooks map) had sent one to Otoo - I found it wrapped up in a plaited coconutt branch & slung to a pole as usual - it stunk very much, & on that account was hung up among the bushes apart from any dwelling. The late disturbance & war bewteen Matavai & Oparre People was the cause of this sacrifice - the People of Waennah took part with Matavai, and the offence was not to be forgivenof forgiveness for pardon. The absence of Otoo prevents any thing being done untill his return, when the eye will be presented and the Etuah supplicated to continue the friendship between the two districts.means scarifice, which is not to be refused, (so sacred is it) as a pledge of faith & good will - It is evidently not confined to making Peace or declaring War or supplicating the Etuah in an emergency, or any general calamity.got carried under the shade of the trees, and by help of some kind Natives who brought some Cocoa Nutts & Apples I recovered, got into my boat & returned on board where the fever happily went off. I left the rest to day, to be done by Lieut. Portlock whose alertness & attention to his duty and everything I direct him to do, makes me at all times think of him with regard & esteem. - I have now no longer the power of bearing much fatigue, many necessary duties however cause me to suffer a great dealwhich frequently overcome. me The Surgeon Mr. Harwood considers my disease nervous.Besides a constant head ach, I have frequently in the day a sinking at the pit of my stomach, then a dreadfull heat flies up into my face, which all but a report, seems to fly out at the top of my head, as if shot through me - a lowness & flurry of my spirits takes place. - For a week past I thought I got the better of my complaint - but this unfortunate business to day has undone all again dry airing their stores. -we have which come off to us in the course of the day. -a plague produced are troublesome to us beyond measure.shall be tolerably well again. -will be crowned with success.and
Saw every one cleaned dressed and performed Divine Sevice. -
My friend Tynah & Oreepyah appear very much concerned at the theft committed on Friday night & have promised to do their upmost to discover the thief & bring the clothes back.- To morrow Tynah goes to Tettaha under an escort of our boat armed and a Lieut to accompany him, and I have determined on sending Lieut. Portlock to Attahooroo to bring away a boat of the Matilda's which Monah has been after for me, & which he has sent me word will be forth coming on the arrival of my People. My motive for taking this boat, if she is worth repairs, is to assist me in case of accident in my voyage through the straight between New Holland & New Guinea.that was stolen. - I could not expect Lieut. Portlock back untill tomorrow. -From surmises of Mr Tobin we have reason to suspect the sincerity of Tynah & Oreepyah with respect to their professing themselves anxious to regain the clothes neither & I believe in consequence of it the present Minor Chief, some relation, is not firmly fixed in his government. -
[Note in margin (a)Potatow when I was in the Bounty]It The boat was at Paterre that the boat was The Mob were for inclined to keep it but Tettowah's wife ordered it to be given up which after a few hours was effected upon Mr Portlock declaring that if he did not return with the boat, I should in a day or two come round & set fire to the Country.much great pleasure. They gave him cause to think the Matavai & Oparre People had prevented their having intercourse with us, and in his assuring them of my friendship, it spread a general satisfaction, - Tettowah's wife with Terraighte,eerree, her 2 husband Towryigh,no and her Brother embarked to see the Ship, where they arrived in time for dinner.
[Note in margine (a) or Terayyootah (b) Captain Cook does it]to is governed by a person who certainly has had equal and like similar power to Otoo. This is Tomaree - he had the eye of the human sacrifice presented to him, wore the Maro, & every person uncovered to him. - Every person one agrees that no other Chief had the power like Otoo & Tomaree but this was before [indecipherable] the present boy Otoo was born - all the superior marks of distinction are now shown to him. - Tomaree formerly called Terrederri is the son of the famous Opureah, he married Terree,naharoah Tynah's sister, as I have stated in my last voyage & of course is the present (boy) Otoo's uncle.I've a letter from Mr Pearce to day requesting a Court Martial as soon as we came were it could be held. Our Sergent for disobedience of orders and neglect of duty - This refers to my acc on the 11th & 12th June. I ordered the Sergeant to be a prisoner at large that his backbone bends outwards to such a degree that the boy is obliged to be carried - he cannot sit upright - The Surgeon Mr Harwood considers it owing the scrofula, as the youth & all his friends declare he had no hurt. The various appearances this dreadfull disease puts on are truly shocking.customary after dinner they began to enumerate the Ships that have been here & how far they liked one better than another - Ours they called the healthy ships, but dwelled much on the Discovery & Vancouver for disease. - It appears now to me that instead of giving the Chiefs wine, they have accustomed them to drink Cape Brandy which has torn them to pieces, & killed many, among whom is a celebrated Chief of Attahooroo called Po,ohaitaiah or Tootaha. -the most of them, very few of the Natives take any trouble to bring provisions to the Ship.covering with new garments now beginning to vegetate . The Natives give me an account of a number of trees of this description. In one month they say the Avees will all be gone.who to whom we have shown great attention to and whom he calls ungratefull.
During the latter part of the day I ordered fires between decks to prevent damps & ill health. -which my orders to him I hope will have a good effect.charming great forwardness, that the Botantists have determined Gardeners are of opinion I need not be any longer detained longer than a week or two at most every exertion is therefore made to be ready to their time. Our laborious work is watering - In this particular I had two things to attend to - the one to start all my old water, & the other to take the new up at such a distance from the sea side, as to be sure that no salt particles could be mixed with it. It was necessary that for this duty to should be done at the latest period I could allow myself , that the plants might receive the greater benefit from the fresh water, and on this account we are now all bustle in getting ready for Sea. -viewed the Mans character; I could not help thinking it was the least thing I could do for him, & that whether the man returned or not it would be was no great burthen to our Country that is should bear . - I complied with his request & he seemed happy, but after all, he hoped King George would send out a Ship for him, as for he thought he would not have sent out so many things to him as I have given to him , unless it was his wish to see him.their a natural good disposition for which that we could chose a man for - He is a servantl supply from our old Friends of Oparre, but no strangers about us. Botantists Gardeners can have no reason to hesitate to take the Plants on board - they are in a fine thriving state, some of them have made two & three inches shoot.marks them for to abound in duplicity.the use he intends the books for is to make cartridges of - all this information came too late to me to adopt means to recover any thing. - dark with the indifference her son showed her after a long absence upon which gave me a novel sight, her taking she took him in her arms (or rather on her hip as they carry their children) -This was a novel sight to me - She was however obliged to be uncovered as they always are in the boys presence. -l supplies altho but few Natives about the Ship. - The sails being bent has given a general alarm of my determination to go to Sea.n oe which was likewise a part of the offering of attonement by the Chief Oho doo of Wa,ennah. He was himself in the can n oe with 18 men. - The dead body wrapt up as it had been brought from the place of execution was laid across the fore part of the cannoe & by it were tied eight fine live hogs. - Near the body were eight or ten long rods connected by tyings. Each rod had short pieces about 8 inches long neatly tyed in form of a cross - About these & the tops of the rods a few red feathers were fastened & the whole is called Mannooteeah, a temple belonging to their God, to which they likewise gave the common name Morai. - This is always used on these occasions. - The cannoe was hung round with coarse white cloth and proceeded towards Oparre with two drums beating in the common way - which terminated with violent shouts calling on their Great God. At that instant the large bundle wrapt up in red cloth like an Egyptian Mummy as I have already described was brought in on a man's shoulders, & the cannoe with the sacrifice was hauled in on upon the beach a few yards from the Morai, Otoo sitting the whole time on a Mans shoulders. The Priest now quitted the Morai & seated himself at the sacrifice & Otoo sat opposite to him, two drums beat an odd kind of tune, and during this the Priest pronounced another prayer or supplication of the Erreerahigh - In this interval they brought three red feathers of the breast of a bird twisted in cocoa nutt fibres and presented them to Otoo and the rods called Mannooteeah (that I have just explained) to Otoo. This ceremony lasted a quarter of an hour, when the sacrifice was brought out on a pole & laid on the ground before Otoo with the head towards him, drums beating the whole time. The outer basket in which the body was packed up was now taken off & the head exposed - Hammennee,mannee the Priest began a supplication in favor of O,ho,doo and his People but no reply was at any time made by the King. upon the shouts given by on his whole people shouting Maivahwere was carried back to the Great Temple Tebbataboo,aitai,ah where another Prayer & Chorus was performed - He was then dismantled & the Marro with the Etuah was taken away by the Priests - In this interval the body was left unprotected, & we saw the dogs devouring the remains of the putrid carcass which the neglect of it I found was owing to the offering being an atonement to the Erree & not a particular sacrifice to the Etuah. The hogs likewise were neglected in the peace offering, but for they were all made a better use of in giving them to us - I dont think there is any immorality in my Idea. to them selves & returned on board.ground place lies adjoining to the Morai Wo,owrooah at the entrance of the Harbour. -work to prepare the Ship for the Plants - Received new Yard Tackle Falls and Fore Stay Tackle Fall - Completed our Whale Boat - Hands employed making hay - Dried sails.An apparent regret at our intended departure is only visible in the Otoo Family, particularly my friend Tynah and his Wife Iddeeah - with them it is very evidently sincere - Some others express some sorrow, the indifference however it is very remarkable to me, the indifference with which the general run of People treat us, is very remarkable, notwithstanding they all say there will be great grief at our departure - The great proof of indifference is the very few people came about us, and that the Natives have formed few attachments that the Natives have formed with any of my People - Hitherto I have been accustomed to see them show great concern at parting and load their Friends with presents of every thing they thought could be desirable to them, but now they offer there is nothing remarkable. I can only compare them to some of our English Folks, who ask their Friends to remain in the House, when they wish them out of it, there are many however who seem interested in our well doing fruit , Plantains, Mahie, Cocoa Nutts & three very fine hogs. The distress of Tynah & Ideeah at my leaving them is very great, but Wyerreddee cares little about us. Poor Tynah is disconsolate at not going with me, altho I have engaged to take his Man and promised to ask permition of King George for him to be brought home by the first Ship that is sent out. I wish sincerely this kind Friend to us could have his wishes gratified. He deserves a great deal from us.but for the injury I am apprehensive they may do our Friends by joining adverse Chiefs. - to - she showed the most affectionate regard at my taking leave, & I left her with Otow I great distress. -Botanists Gardeners told me he had been a valuable man to them, & would be of great use to them if I kept him. As this was an act of the man's own I conceived he might be useful to our Friends in Jamaica in attending the Plants, about which he knew a great deal; and as he was an active fellow and a Towtow I knew the People on shore would be satisfied with the loss of him, expecting to benefit by it in the end. I thought it not worth losing delaying a moments time to land him, which might have delayed me another day and therefore directed that he should be under the care of the Gardeners Botanists to look after the Plants.when the boat was waiting was like an affectionate creature who was losing a valuable friend; both him however & Iddeeah, parted from us at last with only a respectfull regard, and answered our three cheers which were given from both ships. - I have taken no notice of Wyerreddee
John Marshall Chf Mate
James Norris Surgeon
Robert Atkinson Boatswain
John Potts Carpenter
John Smith 1st Boy
Thomas Baillie Ditto
John Smith 2nd Ab
David Mouet Ab
Joshua Harper Ab
John Thompson Ab
Samuel Dennise Ab
John Hopkins Ab
Stephen Legrove Ab
James Connor
James Butcher
William Yaaty
John Williams
Andrew Cornelius Lind
A,ahigh,yahs or Ay,yahs - 4 large pots, 31 small, 2 tubs
Rattahs - 18 large pots, 7 small pots
Vees or Avees - 8 large pots, 17 small pots
Ettow - 2 large pots, 4 small
Mattee - 5 large pots, 1 small pot
Oraiahs - 10 large pots
Peeah - 7 ditto
Vay,eehs - 2 ditto
Curiosity plants - 2 large pots, 8 small ditto, 2 tubs
Total packages 1281
Vessels containing other fruits - 472 plants
Vessels containing Curiosity plants - 36
Total of plants on Board - 2634the same as all my observations throughout the voyage have been performed with . The longitude is of Point Venus. -
From a mean of a great number of meridian alts the Latitude is - See Book of Astronomical observations -
Their errors in Time are as follows.
No 2 ditto 13:59:8,6
No 160 ditto 14:2:40
I consider the true difference in time of Point Venus according to my observations 14:2:14,9. Their errors therefore on the Adventure Bay Rate are
No. 23 - 3:06,3 gained
No. 160 - 0:25,1 lost
No. 2 ditto 1:19:16,7
No. 160 fast for ditto 0:8:30,4with my the account of in any last voyage and my present survey of it. Considerable information has resulted from my searching it at this time, and the dangers going into Oparre Harbour being perfectly known it can be made a place of resort for most vessels. -
shows an irregularity; and when the West winds set in it the tide did not rise or fall above an inch or two in the 24 hours, whereas sometimes at the Springs with the regular trade wind it rose 17 inches - When I was here in 1789 I found it to be high water at a quarter before noon on the full & change days , & then the greatest rise 17 inches but in Oparre Harbour it was high water at one in the afternoon and the rise & fall did not exceed ing 11 inches.