Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales
Impressions of an artist in Papua, mainly of the Trobriand Islands by Ellis Silas, Book II, 13 May-20 November 1922
A 3055/vol. 2
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[Front cover]
IMPRESSIONS OF AN ARTIST IN PAPUA
MAINLY OF THE TROBRIAND ISLANDS
BOOK II
MAY 13th to
BY
Ellis Silas.
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A FEW TERMS - See also back page
Hat belong teapot - cosy
BOY - Any male from 9 to 90 years of age
VIVILA - Girl or woman unmarried. I have used this term with reference to all of the sex
BOMIA - Food Store
ALTOGETHER SOMETHING - Everything connected with any particular KIT
BELONG. 'LONG - Appertaining to, or to go to a place such as 'long (IN) village 'long me" (MINE)
KAI KAI - FOOD. A MEAL
SAGALAI
SAGARAI or SAGALI - Festival
IGAU - Bye and bye. Sometime. No hurry.
TAPARORA Prayer meeting. Prayers
RAMI DOBA - Native skirt
Taubada - Master (White Man)
Sinabada - Mistress (White Woman)
Tin opener belong bottle - Corkscrew
A Walk about. Make a walk about - To go and see friends in a village, to be out for amusement
Calico - General term used for anything relating to clothing, household linen etc - such as "Calico belong me" = my turn to do washing
Brother belong saw - Hammer- Hammer
Ditty Wagga - Box. derived possibly from the naval term DITTY- BOX, a small case in which sailormen keep their trifles.
Ginigini - To paint, write, set down on paper
KOVA - FIRE -
BULLERMACOW - Meat. Domestic animals.
INDEX
May 18th - Effect of climate on pigments
28 - " " "
29 - " " "
20 - " " on clothing etc
25 - A shark story. Art notes.
July 4th - A wedding
5 - A Funeral
8th - An audience with the king of the Trobriands.
26 - Native craftmanship.
24th - Concerning cannibals
28th - The Feast of the MILAMALA
Aug 2nd - Cost of living. 5th Dance
13th - Education
15 - A Patrol
15 - Art notes
18 - " "
23 - Coloring
25 - Maternity
25 - Magic
25 - Character of the Trob' people
26 - Art notes
? - The fashioning of a DOBA
Sep 9th - Papua products edible for white people
Sep 12 - a curious marriage rite
13 - concerning everlasting fire
16 The bone caves
" Cricket
18 - Buccaneers
21 - Native custom
30 - A brush with cannibals
Oct 3rd - Cost of living
10th - Pearling
12 - Art notes
19 - A Piccanins picnic
31st - Cost of living
Nov 8th - Rubber.
11 - A remarkable alligator incident
" - Teaching a child to swim.
14 - London Mission Society
29 - Kaione Papua
General Summing up of result of work. at end of journal.
Such remarks as refer to the Mission, are written without predjucie.
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MAY 13 Leave TAUWEMA (another sleepless night) about 7AM. Reach KUWKAWAKENA & KUDUKWAGA. Both these villages dilapilated, people dirty and unkept. Think this will alter my impression that it is only mission villages that have an unkept appearance. See church and mission hut "nough sed". Just outside village an open patch of ground shadowed by heavy swamp timber, the ground a litter of dead palm leaves, coconut husks and decaying vegatation. Masses of dirty grey coral thrust up through the undergrowth. At the base of a decayed coconut palm, a few slabs of stone moss covered and shapless. Weeds hang down in long festoons from the trees, their snake like tendons strangling the life out of them. W takes my arm, "Like to see some treasure trove?" he lifts one of the stones, within is a medly of skulls and bones, weathered and green, a wooden bowl and one or two other oddments decayed and rotting has joined this grisly company - they are the remains of dead warriors. These poor bits of things are painfully redolent of the futility of men. Makes one feel when all is said and done, how little we are - withal there are some few of us who do not finish in the grave but leave our works behind. such a one was the late Shakleton the explorer to me all the epitome of manhood, it was an elevating experience to be in the company of such a one, though it be at a distance, but I digress. There are several such cairns as mentioned above, in this district, but they are the only ones known in the Trobriand Group of islands. Up to date have seen a great number of villages. There is a great similarity, the more picturesque are those on the coast, they make better composition, and the rich colouring of the lagoons adds a sense of variety which the bush villages lack. Some are well kept and have a prosperous aspect, others appear shabby and poverty stricken, even here where one gets as near to a socialist principal as is possible to human beings, individuality makes its mark, although there are commoners and "rich" men. [indecipherable] there is a law unto themselves and heavy penalty attached if a commoner wears the gee gaws of the rich, it is not a question of money, native wealth is of a different metre and is a question of tribal laws, a commoner being able to obtain anything that the same bountiful nature supplies the "rich" man. The case of Touleu the chief or king of these Island is a case in point, he lives in a miserable hut, and always shabby in appearance (even a nude man can look shabby) merely because by nature he is too mean either to build a decent hut, or take an interest in his appearance. If tobacco is given him him he hordes it, instead ignoring the custom of the country which is to distribute his bounty. Boys that "sign on" after two years from home, when they return will distribute the whole of their earnings amongst their compatriots in the village.
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Expect cause of awful weather, the God BALOMA must be hungry, but hang it all its not my duty to feed the blighter. I used to be of the opinion that nature was spoilt by the touch of civilisation, my experience here seems to rather contradict this theory - apart from the rich colours of the sea. WHEN it is fine weather. The everlasting brown of the natives, always the same, no variety of raiment, becomes frightfully monotonous. Walk to LEBOLA, sending whaler on ahead. MANARGI (police boy in charge) much annoyed upon discovering we reached our destination first. En route pass through villages of OSISWASIA and KOMA. Vivilas much bedecked and villages hooraying as we pass through. We are asked to remain for kai kai. W will not accept hospitality of Mission which latter are the bete noir of these Islands. Ignoring the rebuff, native missioner sends kai kai to rest hut at LEBOLA, a matter of two miles. This place not very interesting, don't care for rest hut much. The usual palm leaf structure, one large apartement, but no windows or place where daylight get through. Outside a kind of caged in verandah. To the right a small table of cut branches, upon which a medely of plates and enamel teapot, tin mug, tin of jam, jam [indecipherable] with butter in. In one corner on the ground some coconuts, despatch cases, easel, colour box, saucepan & primus, in opposite corner, our much disreputal boots, ditto hats and a basin. Withal the remainder of floor littered with oddments, hung on a line in decorative array two towels, pants, underclothing. Kai kai is rather more a penance than a joy. We sit on two diminutive tins, whatime the sharp jagged edges of the twigs which form table dig into our ribs. Feel rather like a monkey in a cage particularly when passing natives glance our way, the main track being just outside. Each one of us is "fed up" with our trek. Tarlega is relieved by the other cook boy Obiadah, so he quits like greased litening. Fairly comfortable night.
14th
To OSISIWASIA & KOMA on official duties, the proceedings much the same as in the other villages. The whole population is called together. W seated in deck chair, with despatch case resting on folding stool, at his side stands a police boy. The census is then taken, the villagers coming up to answer their names as each one is called, these monotonous questions being put sounds much like a priest giving the benediction, rather annoying when the vivilas come up, some are coy, some shy, others bold each according to their nature. Next procedure is judging ages, all to discover who are taxable, the age being from 16 to 36 years of age. Since the only method of obtaining a fair idea of their age, can only be obtained visually, it becomes a somewhat difficult matter, particularly as since taxiation came into force, beards are the fashion amongst the taxables. The men are lined up according to age. W then makes an inspection. This completed, Taxables are asked to come forward with their £ 1, this item on the programme
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is not rushed. This tax money goes towards the improvement of the native condition, such as medical treatment, coconut plantations etc. The missionaries think the taxation, mainly I surmise because they themselves cannot get so much money if the Govt takes it. Last process is the distribution of medician and cumum (come drink) salts, better known to us as Epsom salts. Last process collecting prisoners to come to gaol at LOUSIA. So pack up and away, en route pass on the track a little procession of four men and three vivilas, baskets and moi balanced on head, the vivila's are weeping copiously. Made me feel like a Buccaneer rounding up the bay after a "blackbirding" expedition have often dressed up as such at fancy dances, never thought I should act the part in real life. I hated to see the vivilas crying, and piccaninies looking worried, the prisoners did not seem to be at all troubled with their lot. In any case they were only in for two months, some of them returned the next day, the tax money having been collected for them. Nevertheless, I felt it quite a romantic episode. W & self in our disgraceful rags, in front a string of natives with their goods and chattles, the vivilas weeping, and withal a background of palms. Four foot snake crosses track two feet ahead of me - am quite content not to divert its journey. Leave LEBOLA at sundown, weather looks threatening, now 32 persons in whaler, all prisoners being stowed in, no room to move, feel very uncomfortable, hope weather will hold, I might as well hope for the crown jewels. As we drop away from the shore, numerous of the relatives of the prisoners come down to the beach, the vivilas weeping. Can hear their wail for some distance out to sea. Halfway across passage heavy squall breakes upon us. In a few seconds the land is blotted out by the torrential rains, the knowledge that close at hand are many dangerous reefs not to mention numerous sharks, does not add to my mental comfort, a moi (pandanus leaves sown together) is passed me, I crouch under this jammed up against numerous natives hoping to keep out wet by a like method, a beautiful cascade runs down my back, moreover, if there is to be anything doing, I like to be ready. Fortunately weight of rain keeps down the sea. Our sorry plight didn't appear to trouble W or the two police boys, but it worried me quite a lot, presumably they are accustomed to this kind of thing, for my part, if we are to have dirty weather, I like plenty of room to "trim the dish" i.e. boat. Had anything particularly heavy hit us, I fail to see how it would have been possible to get at the halyards to "reef up". Even on this occasion, one of the fool boys, who wot not of whalers had made fast the fore sheet. W certainly doesn't lack nerve, - but the quiet life for me please. Buccaneering at fancy dances, or on nice
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quiet lakes for this nigger. The boys seemed fairly happy under our none too blissful conditions, deluge continues, wind drops, on our port coral reefs and heavy tide race, so its "out oars" shark placidly nosing along a few yards astern. Bola Point looms up out of the mirk once round here all is well. further squalls roll up, can receive little damage being now in fairly shallow soft bottom. Great is my relief, seem to have no nerve left for these sort of stunts. Home lights ahead, am now shivering with cold, my clothes sopping, sea quite warm, but rain cold. the boys raiment was not in like condition for the logical reason, they do not wear clothes. No cessation of rain, get aground, all boys over the side pull her off. Time we reach Residency am thoroughly done up, strip off my sopping rags on verandah dash for the whisky bottle. Any sort of exposure in these parts may lead to serious consequences unless immediate precautions are taken.
15
Feel none the worse for the experiences of yesterday. Work all day in studio on "the Procession" Thunder all day and night. Am chucking Art to commence a new proffession, that of A Joanah or Drought Breaker. Place me in the centre of the Sahara Desert, sure thing there will be rain. Kadikavina along to my studio with my parrot, the latter getting on famously, can almost use his legs & and wings again. Kadikavina seemed very "bucked" at its progress. Saucy wench came for some Tabac. Missed a Sunday this week. Quite thinking the 14th was a Sat' were anticipating a lazy day on Sunday. There was W and OSISIWASIA a mission village performing his official duties quite unconscious it was the Sabbath. Wasn't until we had been home some time, that the house boys pointed out our error.
16th
Studies in studio of lagoon etc. also work on "The Procession" two vivila to sit, much delighted when I give the empty tobacco tin & match box. These people are like great children. Russian chess. No sleep, mosquitoes awful.
17th
At work on "The Procession" think this will be a success though am tackling a difficult problem of figures silouhetted against the sky, consequently no strong light on figures to help out modelling. To KATAVIA in search of a model no luck see one close to Residency an old women of about 60 black with mourning, just fits my requirements, get house boy to bring her along to studio. Poor old thing sat awfully still, knew not even the sound of English, and even to explain, when I want her to take a rest, she poor old thing, thinking me still more exacting in my requirements tries to remain like a statue. Get house boy to explain, he tells me she wants to get back
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to her village a matter of twelve miles, and this woman over sixty and very shaky is going to walk it, as a matter of course. Meanwhile I was keeping the old bird "sitting" Rain as usual. Russian chess. One consolation, this grey dirty weather not such a strain eyestrain as sunlight. Russian chess.
18th
At work on "the procession". Coming on well, two vivilas to "sit". One sat in same pose for two & half hours, with only a break of about ten minutes, admittedly not a difficult pose, but to remain even in the simplest pose for a short while is a trial. Two friends called in to see them much painted and bedecked also the wench Kadikavina with parrot, seems to think it a good stunt to put over on me, to bring along parrot whenever she wants Tabac. Shall have to cut down this young lady's rations. Climate playing the devil with pigments, a study executed three years ago held alright. Two months here has turned emerald green black, the other colours are standing so far, quite impossible to execute a large canvas, it would be all to pieces before completion. Shall never be able to get these subjects again, am very worried as to how colour will hold, must hope for the best. Certainly a painter in this country is up against many difficulty of a climatic nature. WEATHER FINE. Next trouble both commencing to go. A little wet to-night. "Old Sol" my large green parrot is becoming quite tractable, is much intrigued rubbing noses. I'm told there is a great similarity between the angle of this bird's beak and my-er-nose. "Vot you say Ike?" My evenings are mainly spent writing a fool journal and black & white drawings newspaper "tripe". It is astounding what a number of words in the English language possess the aspirate H. At least so it seems when in conversation with a man who finds the said letter an encumberance in his speech.
19th
A "dud"
20th
Heavy day on "the Procession" prisioner to "sit" this morning, very good. This afternoon paid his tax and off home, had to get fresh model commence again. Picture getting into that condition when it will either be very good or an awful failure. Figures practically all nudes, so my chances for the former result not much go, may pull it through with good colour and composition, all same must get my figures well drawn strange to say the two large figures in foreground quite O.K. rather fear the subject is too suggestive of Brangwyn, consequently will loose much by comparison not that this artist is the only painter that has portrayed coloured people, but he is such a giant that he overshadows the lesser planets, the mind immediately reverts to his work. Anyway even if picture is a failure I shall have learnt something from it. Moreover treating the sky as the lightest part of the picture, not a simple problem - "nothing venture nothing gain" wish I could get on to lagoon subjects where I am more at home, if only weather will permit. Look as if the "Big Wind" is setting in, this means fine weather. This being "Saturday Time" W to his fiancée, myself dining solo, put on phonograph, my Lyon's Café piece, a waltz by R Strauss, one of those sickly sweet pieces compositions, the sound of which brings to my vision. A corner A Lyon's Corner House, waitress in fluffy caps, the Buttons
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MAY
20th
pushing round the dumb-waiter. "Any cigarettes sir?" There are moments when I long to be back at Leighton Studios. What a lot of my life I have spent living in other peoples houses. What a destructive climate is this. White ants destroy woodwork, hornets make nests in every conceivable corner, leather green boots etc mildew in a short while, clothing unless receiving almost daily attention rots or is eaten away by numerous insects. Grass overgrown pathways in little over three weeks. Nature here is one endless slaughterfication. Lizards eat small insects, cats & snakes eat the lizards, birds kill the snakes, man destroys the lot, this in an endless cycle. Grass is not cut with lawn mower, but picked by natives, a rather slow method.
21st
Commercial Art. P & L to lunch, usual conversation, trade, pearl buying, the neighbours shortcomings and of course Government. P & L both of opinion natives have no difficulty in obtaining their tax money. Conversational matter very limited in these parts. Tedium of small talk appaling, a liquid day as usual. Native defiancies. Indifferent to the suffering of others and animals, ungenerous, give nothing but a return in kind is expected. Also inability to make a decent cup of tea.
22nd
Vile day. Very groggy, studio leaking sunlight in every hole and crevice; had biting spots of light, made it impossible to see, absolute "dud" stuck on my canvas. While at work natives call out "Govt' wagga (boat) tell me it is the Governor, how a few boys making renovations to studio am not quite sure how the governor might take it, so send boys "packing" Pailulu to studio with a home mail, great surprise, contents of mail all good news. H an R.M.S. a customs official and also W a bank manager. Quite a merry dinner party. H a topping fellow, has been out in Papua about twenty years. Was full of interesting yarns of adventures. Quite a boon to get some outside news, and converses of other matters than local drivel. 12 midnight help W unpack stores, including some new phonograph records. Awful stuff, but one has to accept whatever is sent, you have to pay just the same of course. Appalled at news in one letter from London telling of six murders in one district, makes me feel more than ever what a horrible satire on Christianity Missionaries coming out to teach these quiet peoples. To bed. Up again at 2 AM play W Russian chess.
23rd
Superintending renovations to studio about 12 boys on the job. Making palm mats to keep out sunlight so far result a success. My beautiful green parrot kai kaied by a dog. Weather glorious. Cool fresh breeze, little fleecy clouds drifting across a blue sky. Most romantic weather, a more fitting background for Palm trees, than the leaden skies. Mail off. Lucky it was not sent by mission boat as arranged, latter ship wrecked. Saw fine bead necklace on a vivella, purchased same for a stick of tobacco.
24th
Heavy day in studio on "the Procession" boy to "sit" - in the morning, two vivela in afternoon, am finding it very trying, they soon get "fed up" with sitting, not knowing the language cannot talk to them, so have to make inane faces MAY
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MAY
at them to keep them interested to do this and concentrate on my work not near easy. The wench Kadikarina called in for some Tabac, for Polly (my parrot) as she put it, endeavouring to explain that parrots do not smoke, the suggestion didn't appeal to her. suggested she should "sit" for me again. Lemons were as syrup compared to her expression. Fear Sigimilu (one of our house boys) is about finished up. W thinks two months will see him out. Consumption. Complaint by boys that one arm Brudo threatened to shoot them, Port Moresby immediately take matter up, certainly the Govt here have the native welfare at heart. A shark incident about 50 miles north of Samari, boys out in canoe diving for trocha shells. Shark attack one bites his arm off. They get him to the canoe, which the shark attacks, endeavouring to upset it, a furious battle rages the boys using small spears, shark eventually driven off, boy taken to village as dead a "sagarai" is held, too their astonishment boy recovers next day. An alligator incident 90 miles from Port Moresby, two boys were rowing across a lagoon in a dingy, a civilian seated on the stern, alligator grabbed the civilian about the middle, boys made chase, meanwhile the civilian with head & shoulders above water dragged along by alligator, they could not rescuse him, the alligator dived and dragged him down, We all this incident was witness by a brother of Mr H. who happened to be on deck washing at the time it occurred. Weather beautiful, fresh breeze - but more convinced than ever this country a very difficult proposition for an artist. Although colour and land monotonous; Insects, fish & birds mostly wonderful colours, very rich, and in considerable variety, am not making a collection I feel they are too beautiful to kill
[sketch titled "Boimas (Food Store) Where food is stored after Harvest is gathered in. Ellis Silas"]
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25th
Art work of "The Procession", coming much better, but feel it a subject that should be treated altogether on a larger scale, not practicable here. H the R.M. to kai kai. fine type of man, an Australian of the old school. He relates a very interesting incident that occurred at MMBARE on the N.E. coast of Papua. Early one morning natives here a great commotion on river bank, rush out to investigate cause thereof. An enormous python in conflict with an alligator. Question to native: "Which won P" = "snake 'e old 'em alligator altogether too tight" = "Well did the snake win?" = "No 'im altogether too much dead" = "Very well then the alligator got away?" = "No - 'im altogether too much dead" It is conjectured the python was hanging on a tree awaiting a pig, alligator after same game, the snake mistaking alligator for the pig, lunged at the alligator, which finding itself on the wrong scent, had to fight it out.
Big wind appears to have set in. Very heavy, much lightening, but sky clear.
26th
At work on the Procession" Feel that to get the character of these people exactly right, necessary to make careful pencil drawings for about six months, may be I am hoping to get too much out of my subjects, either that or my dull brain cannot grasp details with sufficient rapidity. Certainly the physio of these people so similar to the European figure, and with the natural tendency to follow "mentally" the contours of the latter, that it will be only by constant practice and careful watching that the subtle differences can be grasped, admittedly the brown skin is helpful, but it is the drawing and not the colour that requires such care in handling as I think it is the individuality of these people that is so fascinating, once lose this, the interest of the canvas vanishes, there are no "pleasing" effects to be obtained here, it has to be solid well constructed work, if it is to carry. I mentioned elsewhere the seeming absence of reflection lights. Since I have become more accustomed to the light, naturally I find reflected lights very strong particularly now there is more blue on the sky, but on grey days, although light very strong, the absence of any colour other than brown & green has a tendency to "flatten out". Find great difficulty when handling more than one figure to get relief, even in actual life, the native skin melts into its environment in very much the same manner as does karki. W & self very "dopy" after two nights no sleep. W says he never suffered from insomnia before "sorry I've had such troublesome effect" upon him. Sigimilu (house boy) has been sent home, his skin went from deep brown to a sickly ochre. A number of lepers in the hospital. W forever pointing out to me patients (natives) in various stages of disease, fear
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am not sufficiently interested in medical science to find the spectaclie of the appalling sores, a thing of joy. "Chacu un a son gout" je suppose. W certainly appears to be doing some splendid work amongst the natives, spares himself not at all to get his patients well. His hosp operating theatre and appliances of the crudest, and only one police boy to help him with operations: this boy a most intelligent fellow, but he has also his police duties to attend to.
27th
Devil of a time on the "Procession" certainly much better but since hitherto it couldn't have been worse, this is saying nothing at all. Up to date work I've done here pretty "dud" at least so I see it, since in the main it consists of painting nudes, for that practically is what it means except brown instead of white, have felt all along subjects immensely difficult even for a figure painter for me it's hell! all same so interesting feel I must get something of it. More alteration to studio, which is commencing to resemble the Hampton Court maze, palm mats placed at various angles to deflect sun from my eyes. W in wild excitement after considerable effort thinks he's got is motor launch in working order, sends for me to go for a run. I get a spraying with benzine, engine sobs, snorts, makes divers reports and the wheels do not go round, so return to studio. Russian chess
28th
The morning fixing up blinds in studio, two boys to assist, latter much intrigued at my bits of string for pulling blind at the difficulty of eliminating sun without obliterating light. Feel as if bottom of the world had fallen out, after several tests find pigment will not stand the rigours of this climate. Chrome yellow goes black - other pigments lose in brilliance, the blues. Alizarin Crimson, Burnt Sienna, Veridian, stand best - all same two canvas nearly completed and colour going to hell - simply don't know what to do. Lagoon subjects seem hardly worth attempting, one study I made about fourteen days ago, colour all gone, likewise the yellows in my Gunilibaba subject. This about puts the "tin hat" on colour work. The S.E. wind (which is dry) set in, perchance this will not play up so much with the colour. Pencil studies. Our luck is in B off to Samarai to-morrow hence another mail off. Tobacco rations run out, reduced to smoking Trade tobacco, it might be worse. Weather to-day beautiful, sky good colour. Russian Chess.
29th
Blown out of bed by wind & rain, last night. Sleeping out stint, a series of "excursions & alarums". The wench Kadikavina up before the beak to inquire into the matter of why she would no longer "sit" for me.
MAY
[sketch titled "Sinata. Hair comb made from palm leaf fibre."]
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her reply - having nobody to talk to makes her sleepy, that I make horrible faces at her, if she does not sit still, also (here speaks the eternal feminine) she wants to make a new RAMI for the Dress festival, an event shortly due. The horrible faces referred to must be when I'm endevouring to concentrate on my work, also when feeling very disgusted that picture is not going well. I look anything but happy, she interpreting it that it is because she is not "sitting" properly. We persuade her to "sit" for me to-day, found it difficult to remember not to make awful grimaces while working. Find pigment stands much better on canvas than the prepared board, nevertheless I fear colour has a tendency to darken and loose in brilliance. The only soloution when working painting in the Tropics, is a thorough knowledge of the chemical qualities of the pigments and action of the colours used, also after working to place canvas in airtight case. So far have found no deterioration of colour in the tubes, which latter being airtight, prevents moisture of atmosphere getting to them. Should like to practice painting nudes for a year before attempting to portray these people. It is unfortunate how force of circumstance is always compelling me to paint figures - (painting ships not good practice for figure work) Came here with intentions of depicting lagoons and reflection on water, devil a chance I've had up to date, now do not feel very keen, owing to colour not standing, also fear strong light will affect my sight. To-day a beast. After rain last night, air full of humidity. Feel very done up, heavy day in studio picture coming much better - it had need.
30th
Working on "parrot", along to womens hut at hospital to dig up Kadikavina. Since neglige is an unknown quantity here, did not matter my entering the sanctum feminina found Kadikavina half asleep and very grumpy. Most of the vivila occupied making ramai for coming festival. Making of a rami quite a tedious lenghty process. Pandanus leaves are carefully scraped with a shell, then dried. Warwama leaf cut & dried the fibres then separated, sown to the requisite lengths and dyed with mangrove bark. The take great care with the sowing of the pieces, the finished article has a most workmanlike finish. Although general effect similar, scarcely any two rami made exactly the same. For everyday use they just wear a simple garment made of warwama leaf, some of them wear as many as five ramis one of If in the studio there are two vivilas and I want them to change the deft manner in which they get at seemingly a million strings is surprising. This afternoon Kadikavina to "sit" Most sulky, when she thought I was not looking made devilish faces. Having some difficulty with the drawing of a leg, asked K to take off her rami, but could not be persuaded, the lines of rami not following contours of limbs makes it very difficult to get drawing correct.
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31st
Leave Lousia 9.30 AM in whaler, ten boys, one police boy, Taulega & one of his piccanin also one vivila, a prisoner returning home. Fresh S.E. wind, good passage, rounding Bola point a bit dusty, heavy backwash from reef, strong current running. Sea curious colour, horizon appeared as if painted in with blue black ink, no graduation of colour between this and shallow water a yellow green, same effect reversed when we got into deep water, reach Kaibola in good time (about 3 hours). Since clearing commenced, scarcely recognise the place, where hitherto had been heavy foliage, now a red scar on the landscape, a closer view the appearance even more desolate. Enormous trees lying smouldering, ugly dirty grey coral visible everywhere, burnt stumps of trees, others scarred and rent, stretching gaunt limbs to the sky, the foreshore a litter of debris, the ensemble appeared as though an eruption had occurred the formation of the ground adding to the effect. Clouds of acrid smoke filling the air with fumes. Numbers of the boys, supposed to have been working on the plantation, put in the time roughing out canoes from the excellent timber at hand. Went out on lagoon in awful old dug out canoe, bit of stick as paddle, make close inspection of coral, tints are much the same as a tinted photograph. No definite colour, pale greens yellows & pinks, and all manner of shapes. To the village, fed up with ceaseless howl "Tabac Tabuda!" as tedious as the Cairenes with their "Backsheesh!". The more I see of the people am convinced civilisation not the best thing for them. They possess the failing of most coloured peoples, it is inadvisable to treat them with familiarity, they have a tendency to become impertinent. To exactly place the character of the people almost an impossibility, their nature so contradictory. Studies of canoes and huts a great trial of patience, they being composed mainly of twigs & grass. Find everlasting browns & green very monotonous. In fact last day or two feeling I should like to "slip my anchor" and make for home. This fed upness may be due to slight attack of 'flu" and the waiting for the good weather, drabness of the sky a great trial. Also not at all pleased with result of my two months work here, it is to be hope others will not be of the same opinion, think latterly am becoming very exacting and critical of my efforts. H tells an amusing anecdote which happened while he was stationed on N.E. coast. He was sent a copy of the "Seaman's Medicine Guide".
MAY
[sketch titled "IAGUMA" annotated "LIME GOURD & STICK. These vary in size and shape. The lid is generally woven with a dog or pig tooth for handle. All manner of shells, beads and other geegaws are attached for ornamentation. LIME STICKS are often most elaborately carved it most cases, most r
ound in design."]
[Page 16]
31st
Most of instructions commenced with, "place patient against bulkhead", lean patient against bulkhead, in fact bulkhead appeared to be the most important point of the remedies suggested. H wrote Headquarters as follows. Seaman's Medical Guide to hand, much regret same of no service, you having omitted to send bulkhead with same, please find enclosed requisition for one small bulkhead. In Kabiola, much intrigued watching vivilas making ramis; in these days when the bulk of the people have been unionised into incompetence, it is a pleasure to see conscientious workmanship. A moot point whether these people have any feeling for each other, when a son will poison his parents, a wife her husband, it leaves much room for doubt. On the other hand Taulega when he returns from a patrol makes a great fuss of his vivila, and appears very fond of his piccaninies. Very chilly to-night, had to put coat on.
June 1
Two fairly successful oil sketches. When out sketching have wiped my palette scrapings on trees, rocks, packing cases, bollard and such other things as might be handy. This is the first occasion upon which I've had the opportunity of wiping it on humans. When boys saw me cleaning up palette, they held out their hands for the residue, never thought that so little pigment could go so far. I scraped off about enough white to cover four square inches of canvas, this same amount decorated about 60 square feet of humans. Some painted a complete side of their faces, others from the jaw downwards, eyes very embellished foreheads chins, in fact they patterned their heads in every possible combination. One had a most flamboyant scrollwork the length of his abdomen, having cleaned up came out of hut and beheld this ridiculous spectacle of decorated humans. I was too much for me I went into hysterics, the boys not in the least amused, they joined in the laugh. W who had a heavy day very "fed up" with the boys. Undignified of me to laugh I suppose but could not refrain. While painting they are interested, but the piece de resistance, is when I fold up my easel. This evolution they appeals to them immensely, exclimations the whole time this is in progress. The natives in the main exhibit little surprise at anything. That which passes their comprehension is ticketed as "Dim Dim" (white man). Inventions which to we whites, would be regarded as wonderful, they would take for granted. One boy was taken to Sydney, in which city nothing appeared to surprise him. That which most aroused him his interest, was seeing a white man sweeping the streets. Since my experience here, it has struck me very forciably that we people in England do not quite
[Page 17]
realise quite how rich is the colouring in our country. The colour in this country may at times be more brilliant but I doubt me if as rich as the Autumnal Tints of an English landscape. We are so disposed to imagine England as grey that we are inclined to mentally exaggerate the greyness. I fancy the colour in this group of Islands not so brilliant as other Pacific Islands. Certainly Trobriands is not the riot of colour that is found in Egypt. Also I have an idea that when sun is too fierce, that by its very strength it has a tendency to kill colour. Glad I read & saw "Blue Lagoon" (de Vere Stackpool), before visiting the Tropics. I should have felt most uncomfortable seeing an almost nude white girl sitting under a palm tree, every moment should expect to see her attacked by a swarm of mosquitoes and divers other insects. Since seeing the real thing the play in question has lost nothing of its scenic beauty to my imagianity. The staging of this piece was most realistic, it is doubtful if Scenic Art could attain greater realism. Endevour to take an interest in Rest House W is building at Kaibola find it most boring. Should hate to be an R.M. having to do bits of things. A little law, smattering of surgery & medicine. Surveying and general plantation work etc ad. lib. W is very clever with the medical side of his work, in which he takes a keen interest, he has rather a tendency to imagian that he is expected to know and execute any trade, proffession or science. He is certainly most versatile & practical. Unlike numerous Govt officials I have know, he is a most concentious worker, nothing is too much trouble to him, and he is always at it from 6 AM until about 9.30PM seven days a week
June 2nd
To Kaibola village, the natives out to sell me anything and everything. Vivilas throwing around plenty of "Glad eye". W at work constructing Rest House about hundred or more boys on the job, there were 90 of them putting the grass on the roof, all one could see was a pyramid of brown, a patch of roof in places, expected there would be an awful accident, considering roof only constructed of wood and this mainly thin branches. The house did bend a little to one side. W & self up to inspect the whole two hundred boys gives us a tremendous "hay!" They waste an enormous amount of their energy, and work in a seemingly sensless manner. Their method suggesting rather that of the ant, they make no effort to devise the least laborious and quickest method of executing their work, since
[sketch titled "PAW PAW Tree" and annotated "This fruit which is moderately sweet, possesses medicinal qualities, also quite excellent as a vegatable, having a flavour when cooked similar to vegtable marrow."]
[Page 18]
physical endurance has no tenor for them and time is of no consequence. This may be the reason of their indifference "IGAU" (bye'm & bye) is their favourite expression, if particular work not completed this day - oh well next year will suffice. At Kaibola suggest to chiefteness that she give some "kai kai" to the bag of bones she calls a dog, point out with my finger the various bony eminences on the poor little brute - much talk of boys outside this rest hut difficult to concentrate on work. Last night as usual suffered from insomnia, so a walk on the beach. Sea breaking gently over reef, the water touch with silver from the moon, a small clump of tall palms beneath which a darker mass, which is the rest house. Above a hazy sky, stars peeping through. The beach a litter of felled timber. The larger pieces standing out in great black masses, at the base the glow of fires, around which but vaguely silouhetted the forms of sleeping natives, which latter being too far from their village, camp on the plantation. Every day the wives and piccaninnies arrive in processions of about twelve kai kai in baskets perched upon head, other with coconut shells, looking like bombs, in which is carried fresh water. They get their fires going & prepare kai kai thence to the lagoon to bathe & work their rami. After which they fool around until the boys come in for their kai kai. It is interesting the method in which the boys outwit sharks when swimming for fish. Should a shark appear while they are under water, the boy will back into a crevice squatting facing the shark, if latter does not evacuate before their breath is exhausted, the fish which is carried in a net is thrown to one side, shark will dive for it, in the interim the boy will make for the surface, get another net and go down again. That a shark will not attack a coloured man is quite a fallacy, not infrequently the boys are attacked by sharks and some have also been known to try and capsize a canoe to get at them. These people are exceedingly plucky. Recently in Sydney, columns appeared in the press, relating to a very plucky attempt of a man to rescue another from a shark. The people on these island exhibit just as much pluck taking it all in the days work.
June 3rd
Up to assist W devise means of stabilising roof which owing to great strain it received yesterday is none too strong. The two hundred boys talking, shouting tumbling over and generally hindering each other, noise appalling, gave me a headache. Also pouring with rain. W very fed up. Tolulu visits us to add to confusion. I superintend making a temporary support to take strain in centre, arrange logs crosswise, placing pieces of coral between to prevent logs spreading, when they took the strain. Rather like solving a jig-saw puzzle, by the time I'd finished it looked very much as if I had studied my constructional methods from some of Heath Robinsons
JUNE
[Page 19]
inimitable sketches. Telega brings up cup of tea, it being about 2 PM. All of us "full up" with the show. W after giving final instructions decides to evacuate Kaibola, reach rest hut to find Tolulu holding court. Not a spectacular affair, one boy to carry his gourd another his pipe, which is the whole of his regalia. The old boy looking very shabby, not even wearing a belt of "native wealth". His subjects sit round at his feet. After kai kai W holds pow wow, with the wily old bird who is endeavouring to do some "wangling". W tells him off for always sponging Tabac. Tolulu has much power and influence over the Kiriwians making it difficult for the Government (W) to handle them. Eventually get down to whaler, tide being in flood can get across reef instead of negotiating channel. Sky a threatening appearance. About dusk reach Bola Point under oar & sail, at the most difficult part of the passage wind dies away, whaler gyrating horribly, and rain commences as usual this latter has happened every time we have been on patrol. After an hour under sail to give boys a rest, having to beat find ourselves but a hundred yards further on. After considerable manoeuvring negotiate passage. Wind freshens, good run home. Residency in darkness, house boys not expecting us until Monday. W in awful rage. Talega who has been going since daylight, it is now 10.30 PM. Cooks us kai kai. My cloths damp, change and take horrible medicines owing to reoccurrence of this heat rash. "Russian chess".
June 4th
Studies all the morning, got out of bed 10.30am! Boy to sit in afternoon. Find sleeping in native built huts very stuffy, same difficulty with studio (do not sleep here) owing to hospital building sheltering it from S.E. which is the cool wind.
5th
Leave Lousia in whaler about 10AM to BOMAPAU island. W to inspect condition of natives signed on to plantation. This latter not adhering to Govt ordinance by providing the requisite food & clothing. Planter will be duly fined, Govt takes great precautions to see that boys signed on, are fairly treated. W carefully scrutinises living quarters, boys are lined up "to make talk" i.e. any complaint they may wish to make, and are medically examined. Bomapau, not particularly interesting, just coconut palms, a few "half cast" huts. i.e. corrugated iron and palm leaf constructions, natives like the huts, attired in bits of dirty worn out European raiment, Boss boy in dirty singlet full of holes and kaki pants. Around here to Scinacata
[sketch titled "MOI. The mats are made from WAWAMA LEAF. A native never or seldom makes a journey without one or more of these mats, which serve the purpose of umberella, and decidedly more servicable serviceable,) for sleeping on and generally for protection from the weather."]
[Page 20]
5th
en route visit X. Just the type of man to be expected in these parts, lean, muscular, unshaven, singlet and kaki pants, the usual elimination of the aspirated H and distortion of grammar "bon camarade". One of those rolling stones that has delved into every corner of the world and practised many callings. He was in his correct setting and "belonged" to his environment. Lives in native built hut with vivila as companion, an exceptionally pretty well built native. Interior of hut usual medley of "Way Back" household utensils packing cases for seats, a deck chair, boat tackle, carpenter tools. Across one side of hut some planks with blanket thrown across, this serves for a bed. On left side of wall, two more planks forming a shelf like table, upon which two enamel plates, a mug, china cup & saucer, divers tins and a jar with butter in it. From a line across centre of room hang various garments, above which protruding over a shelf the ends of a rami, simple finery of his companion. Brilliant patch streaks of light pierce the interstices of palm leave walls and roof, making hard streaks of yellow in the seemingly into the interior seemingly black owing to the blaze of light without, hornets sail in and out seeking some cranny in which to make nests. The vivila attired in long red muslin smock, busies herself preparing kai kai. Outside at right angles to hut, a shed fitted with carpenter bench, upon which lathes and other implements, the floor the ground a litter of iron bolts, chips, half hewn timber, boat tackle & rudder, beyond this shed, a half completed boat is on the slips. A section of this latter but recently tarred. The ubiquitous Palms & mangroves background. A little chat and exchange of badinage, also discuss the question of knocking together a box (coffin) for P who may die any time now. Interments are rush affairs in the Tropics, no time for obsequies in such a climate. Continue to Scinicata under sail, just enough breeze to keep us gently moving, reach destination about 4 PM it has taken us about seven hours to cover 20 miles. This is my second visit to Scinicata, which place depresses me horribly. The foreshore, low swamp ground pitted with stagnant pools and rotting vegatation. Are camping in the disused house of a trader, under which a herd of goats fill the air with their odour. There will be numerous mosquitoes, rig up awaning on whaler placing beds across oars, as comfortable as can be expected, cool and no mosquitoes. Fine weather all day, the night beautiful rich purple sky splashed with stars, tall palms, lit by the Moon, rich in the shadows. At the base, natives squat round kovas, murmuring in low voice. The insects in the swamps fill the night with their riot. Much annoyed prisoners come up & squat round, awaiting to retire.
JUNE
[Page 21]
[sketch titled "Four row belt of native wealth (Sapi Sapi)" and "Single piece of native wealth"]
Am writing in their dormer. Taka a couple to pull me out to whaler in a canoe.
6th
Up betimes and to Scinacata village owing to proximity of Traders. Village bespattered with corroguated iron, a horrification I loathe. See dog in frightfully emaciated condition order police boy to have it destroyed. A few studies, continue journey to P some four miles distant, rather nice semi native house very neat and clean. Owner is absent so his vivila prepares us kai kai. W makes his inspection of natives etc and we away to the island of Muwoa, whereon a fair sized plantation. Withal snakes to match one reported to have been 28 feet in length, but there appears no evidence to substantiate this statement, nevertheless there is a fairly large snake about as boys are afraid of it, its got to be a fairly large reptile to scare them. Mosquitoes terrible, our cook boy a mass of bumps all over from their attack. Shoal of sprats chased by larger fish leap out on to beach in a solid wave. Most unique sight in N.W. season the two white planters take their meals swathed in clothes, face and finger only exposed. I have been invited to stay a week or two no thank you. W makes very careful inspection of natives quarters etc. After which boys lined up to "make" talk" although owner of plantation friend of W he nevertheless makes first as though an investigation, with the result he will have to fine them for breaches of regulations. Sundown so away to Lousia. A gold moon in the sky fleecy gold clouds drift across the sky. There is a landlubbers breeze which comes up in gently puffs. Suits me down to the ground. Just enough to keep the sails filled and the boat moving, the water slapping gently against the sides, finishing in a long slight hiss as it slips past the stern. Sea almost like glass and equally transparent bottom visible. The horizon pencilled with deeper tones where the low laying island break cut into it. Within the whaler, masses of shadow the quality of black velvet. Having a "spell O" from the oars, the prisoners are making a holiday of this wonderful wondrous night. They lie, some full length along the thwarts, others squat round the KOVA (fire) forward, another in recumbent position, legs hanging over side of boat, head resting at base of mizzen mast, a few have curled up on bottom of boat, to rest awhile in the arms of Morpheus. On the other side of [indecipherable], hidden in the shadows except where moonlight reveals a well modelled shoulder sits a vivila, rami thrown over back, cigarette in mouth, a silent figure. This maiden is en route for hospital. The stern
JUNE
[Page 22]
6th
sheets piled with our kit. I recline elbow over side feet resting on boom. W in white ducks, seated at the tiller, which ever and anon he pushes up to keep sails well filled. Occasionally the breeze will freshen, ruffling surface of lagoon into streaks of silver. The boat will heel slightly, the water hiss and curles at the sternposts as it slip by to make rings in our wake. The boat will jump forward as she increases her speed, t'is but a brief puff trailing across the surface, which in a short while leaves us with sails flapping. The boys commence their haunting chant, first two then a few more, until all of them have taken up the refrain. Thuswise hour after hour we almost drift along, lost in the immensity of a purple space, above spangled with stars, below splashed with silver.
7th
"Fed up" judging by the space I've covered in foregoing pages, I'm as bad as the rest of the world do something a little out of the ordinary must immediately write about it. Read a little of "Mare Nostrum" (Ibinez) quite fascination, but somewhat overburdened with descriptive matters, rather on the lines of Victor Hugo. Certainly a work to be read carefully.
8th
More "fed up" than yesterday. Commencing to loose interest in brown skins & palm trees. Absence of aspirated H's a sore trial.
9th
A sodden world this day, everything in the skies above & the Earth below, one great leak, not in square inch dry in studio. Twelve boys to repair roof, one to "sit" this latter a damn nuisance, moving his head round like one of those chinese images with head attached to a pendleum.
10th
At work on "the procession", coming a bit better, though feel it lacks originality in treatement, this latter appeals to me as being the only "raison d'etre for painting easel pictures. To be original and withal sane in one's interpretation of a subject - is I think the highest achievement in Art. A few yards from studio they are digging a grave in which to "plant" P, who is expected to die any moment. See a Sajarai being held at one of the huts on station, amongst the crowd is Kadikavina, much enjoy teasing this bad tempered wench so tell her want her along studio to "gini gini" oh the face, temper is too mild a term, taking me serious she, Mrs Pailulu and parrot along to studio later, explain to Mrs Pailulu, was only teasing K, much laughter, in which parrot joined. Help W to get his launch in working order, my assistance mainly watching W fool around with bolts pipes etc, well mixed in engine grease. My value as audience not being fully appreciated, return to studio. W to see his fiancée as usual, withal took his phonograph with him most annoying! No music at dinner. Weather very squally.
[Page 23]
11th
Working in studio, weather cool, consequently pigments working much better does not stick or drag as happens in the hot weather. Procession of about a dozen boys with canes to floor studio, by the same token it would seem that my studio is in a state of chronic disrepair, this is one of the drawbacks to a native built house, they require rebuilding every three to five years. Even with a European construction there is continual rot in progress and exactly six kinds of boring insects which eat away the woodwork. To L at Gorrita, very tedious as most visiting is here, matters for discuss being very limited, and this mainly local
12th
Working on "Procession" commencing to go ahead at last, things still faced with the difficulty of overcoming the monotony of all brown skin. Much interrupted day, owing to W being absent on patrol have to attend to messages, withal that wily old devil Tolulu, chief or King of Kiriwina sends me a present of bananas another method of sponging Tabac, it being the custom upon receipt of a present to return in kind. Missionaries for reasons best known to themselves endeavour to get all kai kai possible from natives so raise the quantity of Tabac to achieve this end. Govt replies by offering still more, result to day, yams etc to Residency, devil a bit got as far as the mission. W wants me to be all dressed up for his wedding - help! I'm to be best man, can imagian what an appalling show it will be no alcohol is permitted, withal a gathering of wowsers of the most virulent breed, trust I shall have sufficient restraint to behave myself, those sort of people fill me with the desire to indulge in all manner of vulgarities.
13th
Little sleep again last night, suffer badly from insomnia ever since my arrival. See proccession of natives from mission, being clothed made little splashes of colour, possibilities for a picture get quite excited, but oh! when they filed past me what a crowd. The predominating feature was dirt. Running on ahead, two piccaninnies in white smocks, grey with shame for the dirt which was upon them; two women in jumpers and bedraggled soiled skirts, another woman in a dirty pink calico, carring filthy bundle of clothes, from which peeped the face of a piccaninny, behind her a woman with basket on head full of oddments
JUNE
[sketch titled "FISH TRARP. MADE FROM PALM LEAF FOR CATCHING SMALL FISH, SUCH AS SPRATS, ETC."]
13th
carrying on her shoulder, like a rifle, the Methodist regalia, i.e. an umberella, this one minus handle, by her side a man clad in clean white shirt and dirty kaki breeches pants, in rear of him a young girl, supporting on her head a much battered blue enamel teapot minus handle. Owing to the monotonous shape of the smocks the missionaries intimidate the vivila into wearing, it gives the women an appearance of being enceinte. Withal one of the piccaninnies had its head swated in cloth that in a climate such as this! The natives show a tendency to consumption to cloth them in most detrimental to their health. Not one of this crowd, numbering about two dozen, had that fresh vital appearance, that the non-missionised native possesses. I remember seeing in divers numerous journals, missionaries depicted in cannibal islands, with umberella. In those days I fancied it was thrown in to add to the humour of the drawing - here it is an actual fact, perchance they have carefully stowed away, also their dirty greasy tall hats. These barbarians, the Methodists are a ceaseless insult to nature, spending their lives in frightful orgies of uglifying life, eliminating its colour, reducing the beauties of life to a colourless inert mass. Music, Art, perchance Literature, in themselves an esscence of Nature, are heresies unpardonable. The vast possibilities that life has to offer, the wonderous gifts that Nature bestows, all is sacrificed to the Moloch of their consummate ignorance. They flatter themselves they are utilitarian if such they were, Nature with her unalienably laws would make beautiful the raiment they required, the domestic furnishings which exsistence makes necessary. Last night making drawings of native wood carving. The longer I worked, the more astounded was I at the excellence of their design, worthy of the best traditions of the Italian Renaissance. It is curious that a peoples so primative in all else, their sense of design and craftsmanship should be so far advanced. See boys still digging grave for P. Investigate; find them working at a depth of eighteen
JUNE
[sketch titled "SCRAPING BANANA LEAF FOR MAKING DOBA. THIS FORMS THE TIPETS MARKED X."]
[Page 25]
feet, without supports to prevent earth falling in upon them, had 'em out of it, quick time. Amusing anecdote concerning one, Nicholas the Greek, a notorious character in Papua. He was dying; the doctor said it was a question of a few hours only. As one or two Traders were present, one remarked "let's give the poor B----D a drink" suiting the action to the word, they poured half a tumbler full of whisky down the throat of the dying man - meanwhile a grave and coffin had been prepared - a few hours later Nicholas was up and walking! Needless to remark it was not that coffin and grave that this coasair filled. Fresh wind, grey sky, have abandoned looking for colour.
14th
Vile day in studio, successfully spoilt one of the principal foreground figures, although little model sat very well did not inform me she had a headache until "sitting" was over. The difficulty here is that buildings and raiment, such as it is, has too much in common with the landscape, there is nothing to serve as a foil, or give definite contrasts, the interest of these subjects depends mainly about upon virility, which owing to lack of knowledge and practice in figure painting, I do not possess., still feel that my treatment of the subjects is hopelessly uninteresting seem unable to keep the work virile. Whether or no I ought to blame this enervating climate for that I doubt me. Owing to heavy squalls at times too dark to see the paint.
15th
Work on "procession" coming a little better, but still feel the scale is too small for the subject, which require a grandiose treatment and broad brushwork impossible on a 24" x 20" canvas. The vivila sometimes cover their hair with lime, giving them almost the appearance of a powedered wig. The men who are bald headed wear wigs, an affectation which, amongst Europeans I deteste, but these uncivilised peoples give one the impression that when minus hand, to adopt a wig is a most natural procedure. Actually saw a mission boy, who's attire looked almost picturesque. Natives look very spruce and fresh after they have coated themselves with coconut oil. Two vivilas to "sit" - find it much better to have two, in order they can "make talk" with each other, thus relieve the tedium of sitting, though I find the chatter rather a trial. Grey weather as usual.
16th "Dud" day in studio. To the village of Kavatana, find these villages always interesting. Babel of piccaninnies voices behind me. I turn suddenly general impression is of flying feet
JUNE
[sketch titled "CANOE UNDER SAIL. SAILS ARE OF GREAT VARIETY IN SHAPE"]
[Page 26]
16TH
and scant rami streaming in the breeze. Villige constable came up and saluted at which moment the wind blew my hat half off my head pulling the chin strap up to my nose, felt that the situation lacked dignity. Meet Ms Poilulu and the wench Kadakavina, visiting friends "long" village. First words the wench uttered "Tabac" presumably the Alpha and Omega of her thoughts. "Jala" (no) tabac unless she "sits" for me, directly I suggested this long face pulled. Weather grey and for the natives cold, the latter hugging their fires closely these day.
17th
Two vivilas to "sit" One curled herself up on studio floor and settled down to sleep. The other seems quite interested in the progress of the work, as far as is possible by gesture makes divers enquiries. Work a terrible failure. Before my little models leave I decorate the face of one with vermillion the other although very scarcely awake and very "dopy" with fever was so delighted with the result that she asked me also to ornament her face. Two very glorified and happy vivilas left the studio. Afar off I heard much laughter as they reached their huts. To Lumley's en route meet parties of vivilas returning from a sagarai and dance being held at some distant village. These quaint maidens whose ages range from six to sixty always fascinate me with their brazzen rami and inevitable basket perched upon head. I simply have to stop and look. There is always a merry ring of laughter, invariably there is some joke afoot, particularly when they see a "taubada" (white man) not knowing the language I miss the point, which perhaps is just as well for with all their naivete they are rather bold hussies. Return home in canoe. Pitch dark night, could not see a yard ahead, forced to take arm of boy to guide me to waters edge and get aboard a "small fellow" canoe, which felt very shaky and insecure, withal most uncomfortable, the sound of water slopping about the bottom. Most of the house boys making a "walk about" this one brought his vivila for company. She poor thing very cold. All round dense black masses of mangrove. As we proceeded, the gnarled trunks of dead trees would rise out out of the water thrusting their grotesque limbs at the canoe. Ever and anon the wind would come with greater velocity, heeling the canoe over and causing much wetness. Boy says wind too strong, canoe will capise, call in at a village for larger canoe. Could see nought in the darkness but heavy shadows, almost dead black, the sky broken up by a pattern of palm trees, their slender trunks in the half light appearing to reach far into the heavens, their waving leaves brushing the stars. Could not see the relay of boys arrive, only aware of their presence, when I saw parts of the shadow detach itself. There are other masses which appear to have more motion than their background, closer inspection reveals canoes. After much fumbling and stumbling manage to get aboard one. Have a hurricane lamp, but it being of the "trade" variety, it is econimal as regards fuel, for in any sort of a light breeze it will not remain alight. Continue journey, feeling our way along the heavy timbered mangrove swamp it being too rough to keep out on the lagoon. The bush even in daytime has a most forbidding aspect, at night its aspect is awesome, suggesting to the mind
JUNE
[Page 27]
all manner of terrible reptiles, of things that crawl and slither insects, that arrive in swamps, bumping against ones face, biting, nipping, crawling, sucking ones blood. There is nothing venturesome in this journey. Here we take canoes much as one does a taxi. Its better than stumbling along rough coral track and on a moonlight night quite fascinating, if journey not too long.
18th
Making canvas stretcher, by time I had completed the job, the verandah had the appearance of being about to receive extensive alterations, saws chisels, nails, divers other tools and an endless litter of chips and wood shavings. Certainly the stretchers were wonderful pieces of construction although 24" x 20", they were a network of battens well studed with nails - meanwhile W mucks about with the engine in his launch which still remains on the sick list. Oh well suppose its no good possessing a motor if it works, it would leave nothing to fool round with in odd moments. The terrible wastage of time with native labour worries me, everything is done by hand, if vast quantities of soil are removed, instead of using wheelbarrow it is carried by individual men. The same method is adopted with everything. The natives have been shown a more efficient and rapid procedure, but waste of time showing them, they prefer their own style. "Igau!" (bye & bye). Although have been here three months, have not yet found myself; it is all intensely interesting, but cannot eliminate that which is suitable as subject matter for the brush. Unlike my anticipation, it is not a country "asking" to be painted, there are no ready made pictures; the subject has to be selected, and very carefully, otherwise one will come an awful "mucker". I've come two big smashers so far. After three months solid work, I've executed nothing worth while. I can feel that there is some very interesting material, and if I don't get too depressed and can stick it out long enough, I think I shall "make good".
19th
Two vivila to "sit", rather futile having them in duplicate, as the one not "sitting" curls up and goes to sleep, which is no sort of diversion for the victim. Grey weather, doesn't appear as if I'll even get any subjects with colour, apparently this is too near the Equator to get fine settled weather owing to the continual evaporation, very disappointing, feeling very bored indeed, green and brown, brown and green, nothing to break the tedium nowhere to go for a change to get away from work, all the Islands in this group the same, flat, low laying coral reefs, the highest point scarcely hundred feet above sea level, rows of palms broken up by mangrove swamp. From the water these islands have a most dreary appearance and look as though uninhabited, most of the villages being inland, relic of the days when hordes of cannibals would suddenly swoop down in fleets of canoes carrying off 30 to 40 natives apiece. Dance season commencing models practising one or two movements in studio.
JUNE
[sketch titled "CORAL. This grows in a great VARIETY OF FORMS. THE SHAPE MARKED A BEING THE MOST PREVALENT. THIS FORMS ANOTHER DANGER WHEN SWIMMING. A SCRATCH FROM LIVE CORAL POISONS THE WOUND."]
[Page 28]
20th
Two vivila and one boy to "sit" if ever a day was vile to-day is it, pouring rain, sodden atmosphere flies and mosquitoes this afternoon too dark to see to work, and this in the Tropics!! What has happened? The fine weather due April last, and now the latter third of June! Am I never again to experience fine weather completely mucked my work. I just feel I don't want to paint. W remarked "that if this appalling weather continues much longer he will do me in" Am much perturbed at the spectacle of a lizard's tail wriggling on floor. Minus lizard, it continued these grotesque movements for fully ten minutes, after the cat had chased off the lizard. Much preparations for the coming dance season (Miamita) evident scrollwork and decoration on faces much more elaborate. Also much practicing of songs and movements for dances. The fashioning of divers musical instruments from such materials as cane etc. Kadikavina has made quite a good set of pan pipes from bamboo. Also much coming and going of friends and relatives between the villages and sagarais more frequent and the eternal feminine is much occupied preparing new robes. The ramis when new are very rich in colour.
21st
To Kavitava, a fishing village. While at work, one saucy wench felt in my pockets for tabac, whatime she trod on my toes and leant against me while I worked. Completely lost patience with this damnable climate, alternate rain and sun the result atmosphere always humid, in much the same conditions as is experienced when clothes are boiled on washing day. Interesting as is the life here, this everlasting mud coloured skies make it quite impossible as subject matter. Wondering whether it is advisable to hand on a little longer in the hope that the weather will alter.
22nd
Commence new canvas, decide to go to Kaibola for studies, a matter of fifteen miles. Oh the appalling preparations neccessary to take a small canvas. W very kindly makes case for canvas; all this fussing worries me horribly, quite puts me off my work, but impossible to move without, or make even the simplest studies, one must have protection for the blaze of the light, and the continuous rain, oh how sick I am of it, day upon day, week after week month after month the same riot of rain on the corroguated iron roof day and night, a few fine days in between, but not a one when the sky is a clear blue. I do think this is the most disappointing and impossible country for an artist. W has given me all the assistance its possible to a man to do, but the result up to date very poor. Never a single day have I got up feeling fresh for work, but always jaded always a great effort, I manage to put in a average of ten hours a day seven days a week think somehow I've been to anxious considering how to turn out a fine work instead of occupying my mind with the subject. Moanably fatal to true
[Page 29]
Art, which must give something more than mere cleverness and dexterity in handling a medium. Two pigs for the wedding feast at the Mission. I dislike much the method of travelling livestock in this country, the pig is attached by its four legs to a pole, the pig hanging in an inverted position, the pole being supported on the shoulders of the natives. Which latter are very cruel to all living things, not wantonly so, mainly from ignorance.
23rd All last night four cats rioting about the verandah finishing up fighting under my bed. W thoroughly exasperated caught one of them and "did it in" all four being tortishell he made a mistake killing one of our own cats. Wake up after what little sleep I did get, to the usual sound of torrential rain, which fortunately cleared up in time for my journey to Kaibola, this latter interesting the first trip, tedious later, fifteen miles of monotonous track, the foreground a chocolate colour, broken up by outcrops of dirty grey coral, on either side six year old coconut palms, their trunks bulbous, there leaves joining above, forming gothic arches, beyond these a seemingly endless waste of vegetation, part of it gardens of taro, the remainder, tangled weeds all a yellow green in places the palm leaf, half rent from a tree, stuck out at an acute angle across the track. Weeds in the prodigality throwing out numerous of their tentacles. Nothing to break the monotony of colour, except such times as a butterfly with wings of opal blue and black flits across the vision, making a streak of wonderous colour. I have twenty prisoners with me, ten ahead, some in the rear, the very sight of their heavy burdens is a fatigue to behold. One has balanced upon his head a door, another a wooden case containing divers articles including paw paws, others carry coconuts slung across poles, which they balance on shoulders, a fifth the ponderous roll containing my bed and spare raiment. One boy, carry this case which protects my canvas and drawing board, together with large palette; at my side a boy, biscuit tin in hand, slung across his shoulder my oil sketch box, well loaded with colour; others are burdened with crates, cases, baskets, the handling of a frying pan, the rim of a plate, divers other household utensils proclaiming their presence! Two boys in the rear carry a table attached to a heavy pole, which they support on their shoulders, the general method of transport in this country, piled up on the table, a deck chair, tent, and stools, some few carry heavy planks and pieces of old timber, grey and weathered. On my left side, Talegua and piccanin, which latter alternately walks and is carried. So this strange cavalcade with its heterogenous collection of goods trundles along; its unshod feet pattering on the damp soil. Miles of track unwinds its tortous twistings like a giant serpent uncoiling. Where the vegetation is not over high, clusters of palms are visible ilsand islands in a sea of yellow green vegetation.
[sketch titled NATIVE PIPE (BOBAUOO]
JUNE
[Page 30]
23rd
These palms betoken the prescence of villages. There is but little breeze, the weeds on either hand exude vapours, heavy, suffocating. Ahead the clouds wear a threatening aspect the mutterings of distant thunder breaks the heavy silence. The sun pours down its pitiless heat upon the sodden track, causing it to steam. Mile upon mile, we plod along, perspiration pouring off is in rivulets. Our line of march compels us to face the sun, which is exactly right ahead. Not a vestige of shade, at most the vegetation on either side is but six feet high; in patches some few of the palms are somewhat taller, perchance we pass a gaunt half dead tree, its bared members, thrust to the blazing sky. Will the village where we made our first halt never show up! It is pointed out, a distant purple patch of palms. Some of the boys are getting fagged; dropping their ponderous burdens to wipe their dripping brows. Others will amble past me at a trot to catch up with the files ahead. A twist in the track, the village is lost to view, another turn, it shows up again seemingly further off than ever. The foliage on this stretch extra low, can keep village in view but appears to get no nearer. Once more a bend in the track blots its out; and this for another hour, the track drops into a hollow, causing the heat to become even more intense. A quick sudden turn, ahead is a patch of purple [indecipherable] and dirty browns and yellows. A vivila basket on head, a boy adze balanced on shoulder, approach sure signs of village the murmur of piccanins voices, we are upon the village. The slender trunks of palms make grey streaks against the heavier deep shadows of the heavier folige. Spots of brilliant green mark the presence of banana trees?, the yellow brown of huts, thrown into relief against a ground of pale purple blue smoke, drifting largely up for the village fires. Sharp lights, glaring, incisive, streaming through the folige breaking up the ground into harsh ugly patches. Piccaninns shy, ready to scamper away, peer at us from the safe cover of hut and palm tree. Vivilas busy about their domestic duties, cease work to stare, boys on the way to their gardens, halt, passing badinage with my carriers, asking wither bound as is the custom. The village constable stands at attention and comes smartly to salute. We do not halt, continuing through until once more a stretch of steaming track envelopes us. Ask Talegua if boys require a rest (I don't oh no). He replies. "More better we go further Taubada" don't intend to let 'em see I'm thoroughly fagged so "en avant". The journey but a repetition of first section, except it being nearer noon, intensity of sun greater. Fortunately storm clouds have drifted off, no joke to get a sousing (invariable result if it rains) out on track; a wetting always risky causing divers ailments, if one cannot get immediate change of raiment. Babel of voices; near a village, clamour is of exceptional volume. A Sagarai being held, in honour of gardens having been garnered. Village
[sketch titled "TUKWALU CARVED IN WOOD FROM ONE PIECE."]
[Page 31]
23rd
crowded with visitors. Upon the ground, brown mounds of Taro (TAITU). Natives are walking round admiring these seeming heaps of earth. The native loves his garden; its products are of immense interest to him. Proud is the man who can display the finest taro. Their whole deportment is similar to villagers at an agricultural show in England or any white peoples. The difference only, being the setting. We do not stop to admire, but push forward. Two of the prisoners arrived at our destination four hours late, I half suspect they rested awhile to admire the vegetables. Reach halting place, the village of KABAKU. Glad indeed were the boys for their respite, after short rest and drinks of coconut milk, take a walk round. Some quite small boimas in the village, food safe would be more applicable, to such minute structures, they are of phantastic appearance, their thatched tops and form twisted legs suggesting much a very old and bewhiskered man. Also a beetlenut tree 8 inches diameter and 60 feet high, perfectly straight, quite interesting. Am presented with bundle of sugar cane and eight coconuts, pass this on to prisoners. Make return gift of stick of tabac. Continue journey. Track being nearer coast more rugged, outcrop of coral greater. My feet feel enourmous, withal boots much worn and cut by rough track. Think any moment shall drop down, increase my pace, damit stop, shall never get up again. Track decends very sharply, twisting as ever. At last the sea breaks into view; the green giving place to grey blue. Yellow where sun catching the dancing wavelets. A sharp right turn across grey sand patch littered with timber. An ascent of a steep slope of sand and loose coral, stumbling across a litter of timber, find myself in the welcome shade of the new rest house. Around which swarm and chatter boys at work on a job purported to have been completed sometime back "IGAU!". W. will be much disappointed, that which he set out to avoid has occurred. i.e. main horizontal supporting beam too low, a common failing with native structures, he forgot to make allowance for flooring. Already I have bumped my head several times. This rest house quite a swell affair, instead of one room, there is also bathroom and kitchen, not as we understand these things in cities; it must always be remembered this is a very primitive country. The foregoing description may suggest it was a journey of life and death, not at all, its all in the days work except I'm too soft for this manner of life.
JUNE
[sketch titled "KAIBOMA. (FOOD BOWL) CARVED IN ONE PIECE OF WOODF"]
[Page 32]
24th
At work on new canvas. Working on beach light very trying, compelled to put up a fair sized tent as protection from sun, any work in the open a difficult matter on account of power of light. Have such additions made to new rest house as will add to the comfort of the honeymooners when they arrive. Having no knowledge of stresses and strains dare not make any structural alteration don't want jolly old house to tumble collapse. Caught a fish to-day - or rather it caught itself by flopping out of lagoon on to some twigs in which it became entangled. With a proud air I handed it to cook boy, this latter not having witnessed the catching remarks "You savey altogether too much Taubada". Whether out of compliment or that he really thought so, I do not know. Anyway fish was boina (good) for Kai kai. Send boy with message to residency he accomplished the same journey I've made such a song about, in half the time. It took me five hours hand marching, he accomplished the two journeys in the same time!!! Weather good, slight squalls only.
25th
What a restless climate, rain all night, fine this morning; in afternoon too dark to see to paint, spend most of time watching sea breaking on coral reef. I mention coral, even after despite my disillusionment I feel there is still as certain amount of romance attached to the word. To-day being "Sabbatdy" (Sunday) the beating of drums in distant village for Taparoru. "pour passer le temp" swap yarns with Talegua, who with his companions are seated round my deck chair, their features thrown up by such light as a hurricane lamp can give. Talegua relates an exulting experience that occurred to him. He and seven other boys set out from Samarai in a small schooner, their destination a matter of one to two days sail. They were caught in a hurricane, causing the ship to gyrate round her compass, they tried everything to bring her top to the wind, in but a short while the waves were mountainous. Day after day they drifted, the nights even more terrifying, for coral reefs abounded. They were on short rations, eating but a mouthful alternate days, eventually the also came to the end of their water supply. On the ninth day they saw an island with coconut palms, the sea having abated they effected a landing and secured some of the fruit. In the offing much to their surprise the saw a steamer, deeming themselves well off the track of such craft. Thinking that had but drifted round Papuan waters. Tenth day a strange land hove up eventually the found themselves a Cairns, North Queensland! Some thousand miles from Misima, their destination. To quote Talegua: :I think we altogether finish, frighten altogether too much." I must have been pretty bad to frighten Talegua he takes a lot of scaring. He tells me that when W marries and his time expires, he will go back "long village", he no like work for a Sinibada
[sketch titled "(KENU) A LIME SPOON PAPUAN HANDICRAFT Made in one piece"]
[Page 33]
W. will be sorry, although he is signed on as cook-boy he is firsrate at handling a boat, an essential qualification in these islands, he is a most resourceful man in many respects, its doubtful if he can be replaced. Sorry I couldn't give Talegua's yarn in the vernacular which latter greatly added to the picture. Endeavour to explain to them "Dim Dim" cities, ships and life generally tell him the Big Village that I came from. Using native similes it giving them a better comprehension. When I told them some Dim Dim families are quite large having as many as fifteen children, there surprise knew no bounds they considering they have quiverful if they possess four children. A saucy whench vivila, for some tabac, give me some.
26th
Heavy weather all night no sleep. Usual trouble with prickly heat, every time leave Residency or exposed to weather at all this occurs. Suffer much from sunburn and sand flies through working on beach. Feel groggy instead of remaining to complete canvas also see that everything finished at new Rest House. In state of funk at rash on face, dash off for Lousia, leave Kaibola 7.30 arriving at Residency 12 noon one break of ten minutes on the fifteen mile journey. Insect life appalling, lizards running up my easel while I'm at work, perch on top of canvas, not a square inch of ground that is not swarming with insect life. Every tree trunk has its trail of ants running up. Ants the worst pest of all, drop a crumb on verandah or put anything down containing food, in few minutes brown with ants. White population full up with appalling weather, threaten to chase me off Island. They cannot remember such a year for bad weather; put it down to my prescence, they are not far out.
27th
Working on new picture, result so far very depressing. Mail out for home. Copies of my poster and hand-book so orient like. Never feel that reproduction of one's work area thing of joy. Hope poster looks well "in situ" Rami I purchased skirt got in awful condition, have given it to Piolulu for his vivila to look after. He wore it as far as the vivilas hut, from a distance saw all the vivilas trying it on, could any woman resist trying on a new skirt, bet they'll sneak off to a dance in it. No boat in, great shortage of Tabac, natives almost giving away their produce, for very small shreds of tabac. Arrival of boat to day, will relieve the shortage perhaps.
28th
Vile day, helping W. unpack and arrange bedroom suite. Vic & Lumley call in adding to the confusion. Also mail to be got away. Much discussion as to wether or no a coffin should have been made for P before he is ready. Suggested P be given a revolver to put himself out of his pain. Exasperate whites sending in notes to W asking for my early death, they feel it will be the only chance of a change of weather. Another sodden leaden day. Natives very worried at shortage of Tabac. For the first time in my life I have purchased a bottle of whisky. Help W in office. Bathing my hands in filthy lucre "i.e. checking native tax monies.
29th
No sleep at all last night. Practically none all the week this insomnia is becoming a habit with me. No work again to-day.
JUNE
[sketch titled "NEW GUINEA PIG Carved in wood from one piece (Papuan Handicraft)"]
[Page 34]
29th
Busy helping W to get cleaned up, shall be glad when I have packed him off to Kaibola, so I can get back to my painting quite a business arranging the number of boys they will require. What kit to put in the whalers, also learn the ropes of running the station and prisoners during W abscence. Most of the people on these islands, that wear shoes are dodging the wedding. The fool etiquette which the Mission has attempted, combined with complete absence of the cup that cheers is keeping the few people there are, away. Don't blame 'em would dodge it myself if I could. W delighted with the two water-colours of London I have given him. Certainly I can class one of them as an inspired work. What a small percentage of the output of the average artist is really worth while. What a pity we cannot afford to destroy all our "duds". Lagoon wears quite a busy aspect, for "Traders" in at one time! Lord! We are getting important in this part of Papua.
30th
Morning time, help W. although very hot and doing manual work, did not feel it half so much as when painting. 4 PM Earth Tremor, a number of people felt it but I noticed nothing unusual. Mosquitoes bad. Flies worse, though no rain, very trying day, almost midsummer weather for this part of the world.
July 1st
Work in studio, very stuff and hot, light breeze which does not penetrate studio. No interest in my work. Usually difficulty with native figures, the latter not sufficiently interesting without some manner of brilliant raiment. Shall be glad when I can find a subject that I really want to paint. Three canvases nearly completed get frightfully stuck, don't seem to be able to get on with them. Outbreak of influenza epidemic.
July 2nd
Lagoon canvas getting on well. Weather fine, cool breeze, feeling very fed up with Trobriands, particularly there being so few subjects for my brush, and the futile waiting for blue sky.
July 3rd
Lagoon picture going well. Six mission people call to see W, including a Dr W E Bromilow, a most interesting man, who has spent about 30 years as a missionary in these waters. Relates to me many matters of interest, tales of the early days. These people, he states, were a most excitable race in those times. He has travelled in many parts of Papua, including cannibal infested territory. The cannibals finding him a man of peace, never molested either him or his wife and child, which latter often used to walk in the bush; not once were they ever importuned in any manner whatsoever. Bromilow says he felt safer in the wilds of a cannibal country than he would in parts of Sydney and other civilised cities. I made a similar statement so while back. An interesting snake yarn. This incident occurred at Si-i-gu, DOBU PASSAGE. The wife of a Fijian named "Cockroach" retired extra early one night. She had been in bed some hours, awoke to find herself unable to move her right leg, she found that her leg up to her knee was down the throat of a python!!!. She called her husband, which latter with the aid of two other boys despatched the reptile and released his wife, who was none the worse for her adventure - querie: Why did not the woman wake when first the snake attacked her? - Answer: These natives sleep very heavily, once asleep, nothing will rouse them. Frequently they are bitten by rats until their feet bleed, even this does not waken them. I myself have seen a boy who was badly bitten by cockroaches, while he was asleep. A shark story, which incident occurred in Dobu Passage. A boy was caught by the arm, which was in the shark's mouth up to the elbow. The boy
JULY
[Page 35]
thrust his arm still further in to get at the root of the shark's tounge, this he succeeded in doing, the shark opened its mouth releasing his arm. Once free the boy grabbed the shark by the tail, endeavoured to pull it inshore, but the fish was too strong for him and got away. The relater of these stories. Dr W.E. Bromilow, a man of letters withal one not given to indulging in frivilous chatter, in both instances he carefully cross-examined the principal actors - so the veracity of these tales need not be doubted. Mrs Bromilow relates a tale of native etiquette in the early days. They had been walking, across very rough track, towards the end of the journey she cut her foot, the Boys immediately offered to carry her, she declined: whereupon all the boys there was something more than a hundred of them, commencing to limp. Wishing to show that even they who were used to the tracks, got knocked out and what a noble sinibada she was to endure to bravely. She had to laugh despite the pain - ludicrous was the spectacle of all these boys pretending to limp. Boys are not afraid of sharks while under water, but only if swimming or half submerged are they nervous of attack. While at work in studio, here a shuffling sound, think it is my feet on the palm floor - suddenly the studio seems full of feathers, only a chicken that had been roosting making "a get away". Gave me an awful shock - however had a hunt round. Find seven eggs reposing in a corner - sun being very strong, give my blind a jerk - flop! and a great toad goes hopping off. Numerous small lizards are always flitting round, they are most welcome, they are great at clearing up mosquitoes. Can't make out what Talegua has at the back of his mind - twice to-day he has brought tea over to the studio, a duty he always relegates to one of the underlings. Weather fine, fresh breeze, but not fresh enough for me, always feel fagged when I get up. Talegua asks me if I go to Kaibola with the honeymoon couple. Am at pains to explain that it is not Dim Dim fashion so to do.
4th
All night crashing of heavy rain on roof. Sleep impossible, 6 AM flies commence to worry, so up betimes and a fine morning. 9AM W yelling at Boss boy to get whaler away. Which should have left at 8AM to fetch some of the guests for the wedding, at which latter the boys seem somewhat perturbed. Manayi never handled the whaler so badly as he did this morning. 10AM Get W "all dressed up and somewhere to go" Wedding shackle safely in my pocket, we off to the Mission. Natives crowing in from all parts much bepainted and bedizened. Fresh breeze, bright sun. The Mission ground splashed with dots of brilliant colour, reds, blues, greens, puce, large patches of browns where natives are in thicker groups. Spots of brilliant white, the ducks of Dim-Dim attire. The hospital boy in dark blue, trimmed with lemon yellow, police boys in dark blue and scarlet sashes. And oh the swishing of ramis and jingling of beads and shells of the vivilas. Some in dancing attire,
[sketch titled "SMALL BOIMA (KAIBOLA VILLAGE) these serve the purpose of a safe for food in daily use."]
[Page 36]
July 4th
over their backs strings of beads and shells glittering against their dark skins like polished steel. First to the Mission house, to await preparation of Bride. Thence to the church, a long rectangular building semicircular at end, a construction of native build with spaces into which are let in European windows, the right side of church removed, to allow for the crowd. On the left side, in front, Mission boys in white, behind them police boys in dark blue; in rear of these stretching to the doors of the church natives in all manner of attire, many without altogether. On the right Mission vivilas, some hundred or so in white calico, pale pinks and blues of the hue attained by many washings. On the right of these vivilas the open space where sides of church have been removed a dense mass of natives, of had come in from some of the villages. These made a background of brown, broken by splash of colour made by such bits of calico as some of them were wearing. The dull red of the ramis bring the whole into harmony. Amongst this crowd I see the wench Kadikavina "got up to kill" one side of her face painted black with border of white dots, a garland of yellow flowers round her hair. Some piccaninnies of tender years claw their mother's breasts, or tumble about over the knees of others, as is their want. One or
[sketch which continues over to the next image. The title is also spread across the two images "KAISIGA. This village is typical of a Trobriand Islands, coastal village. Generally a clearing cut in the mangrove swamps which surround the village on three sides. A clump of coconut palms, very tall and graceful, and huts constitute the village"]
[Page 37]
JULY
two chiefs and rich men, with belts of native wealth, and lime gourd slung over arm. The semicircular portion of church is a raised dias, upon which are seated all the Mission crowd and guests, half hidden by the greenery with which church is bedecked. At base of dias, a small piece of wood covered calico. Standing by this, book in hand Dr Bromilow in the gorgeous scarlet and purple robes of his degree. Upon his head a black velvet cap of Tudor fashion. W in white duck a splendid foil for the Doctor's robes, stands awaiting the bride. Whatime the vivilas titter and nudge each other. All the windows and open spaces are blocked up with a sea of piccaninnies faces, making masses of dark brown against the sky or background of the brilliant green without. The bride at last enters, whereupon all the people on the dias give forth excruciating sounds, which I presume is meant to be a hymn. Whatime the ceremony is in progress, various vivilas give me the "glad eye". The wilting and throwing being finished I turn about to follow the bridal couple, but find my arm grabbed by the bridesmaid, which I take it, is the correct method of leaving an edifice on these occasions. Once at the church door, the only thing that interested me were the vivilas, bless their hearts, their trim little figures and chic rami. And so to the hut where the bridal feast is laid. Register signed, and small talk made away we are seated. First course chicken and ham, quite good, followed by divers sweet stuffs - the joy of the small boy, death to the dyspeptic. Looks as if they are settling down to a "Methody stodge", enter the buffoon (myself) too much for me, it is a choice of either playing the clown, or swearing. I choose the former as the safest. A toast is declared, we fill our glasses with a sickly liquid, the colour of beer, the name thereof I wot not, this stuff made me quite hilarious. Without the sounds of much yelling and general schmozzle. The natives one and all neglect the attractions of peering through gaps in the wall, at the wedding feast for this new diversion, which is a crowd of dancing girls off to Karatona. Wedding breakfast continues. I work still harder upon my unresponsive audience. That over, next ordeal, the wedding group. Without which no wedding is
[The image shows the continuation of a sketch and title from the previous image]
[Page 38]
JULY
4th
complete "therefore buy a Kodak" We stand like dummies all in a row. Much consternation because I will not remove my hat seeing the sun is some five million in the shade, am taking no risks, withal glad of the excuse. Never thought I would be compelled to become an actor in one of these barbaric abominations a wedding group - the hat remained upon my head, but what a hat, it possessed neither shape, form or colour, is so in the last stages of decrepitation being my old "digger" headgear that had seen much service. I opine, that judging by the type, attire and demeanour of the participants the group will be well up to standard, bridegroom complete with imitation orange blossom in lapel of coat, which former he hopes to loose at an early date. For Bride, please refer any wedding group displayed in wonders of a small photographers. Some of the other costumes are worthy of comment, there is a Mrs X a bespectacled attenuation, in robe of black something in style and shape to the kind of thing that one meets when seeking apartements at a seaside resort. The robe showed evident signs of recent exhumation by the numerous creses. The whole get up finished off with elastic sided boots. The dresses of all the others were of the same indeterminate fashion. Amongst the guests a Mrs = a real Bohemian, with a "you can take me as you find me or be damned to you" demeanour that was quite breezy. Mrs Bromilow, in grey, an interesting homely little grey haired woman, like her husband very broad in her outlook on life. As to what she did or did not wear, is of no account; she is a woman that counts; pleasant talkative and a large fund of sound common sense. I wish I might meet many such. Both the Dr and his Mrs I deem it an honour to meet. It would give me a vastly better opinion of the Methody crowd, did the others model themselves on these two people, splendid types of the old school. Dash off to see launch all ready at kit aboard. The Mission ground a kalidescope of colour. Oh the gorgeosity of beads feathers and paint, the natives have donned anything and everything that glitters; very limited in these Islands, but what they have, they've used with effect. En route meet Kadidkavina, who with crestfallen face tells me she "close up finish long hospital, what shall she do with my pigeon?" (parrot) I think it both better for my little bird and herself (seeing they have become such pals and that she nursed it back to health) that she keep the bird: At which the sunshine returned to her face. "Oh tank you Tabada" I give her piece of tabac and so my bad tempered little model of lithesome figure flets out of my life, to melt into the memory of distant things, not without some regret do I part with her. With all her ill humours there was something about the wench that appealed to me. At the end of an avenue of
[sketch titled "STYLE"]
[Page 39]
tall palms which pattern the sky with their leaves, a little wharf runs out into the lagoon, a few yards off, a whaler and launch, bob about straining at anchor to the S.E. breeze. Glittering white as their wet sides roll up to the sun. The mast of the launch a blaze of colour of numerous flags, with which it is bedecked. The jetty a medley of all colours, principally brown, the dazzling white, of deck suits making great gaps, lowering the colour values of all else round. The medley of vibrating colour surges along the wharf, some of it emptying into canoes that line alongside. Just the heads of the bridal couple are visible, upon which is showered bits of coloured paper in lieu of confetti. Whatime some of the sisters pass flirtitious (for them) remarks at me. "Alright Managi haul off"! at last I get the principal actors away. They get aboard launch, the boy hauls up the hook, and she steams out into the lagoon, very soon what were people are but dots, the flags specks of colour against the sky, fluttering to the freshening breeze which comes across to the lagoon, very soon that have melted into the distant haze - this has another bachelor "gone west" next thing to make a "get away" myself, this I successfully accomplish without offence to any - so back to Lousia, change and to the studio to wrestle with my canvas. Usual damnation trouble with the figures. One D, after much trouble with the aid of his dog, discovers my fastness. Up to date have sedilously hidden my studio from all and sundry, fear I shall suffer much interruption in the future. Meanwhile until such time as W returns I take over some of the responsibilities of A.R.M. Such as supretending some hundred or so prisoners and such other matters as require attention. It will be a great interruption to my work, nevertheless it is a great comfort to me that I can be of some service to W.
5th
Up betimes, a cup of tea, thence inspect prisoners work. 9 AM receive news P is dead. Send notification to all white people inspect grave. Order whaler to be ready with twelve boys to start for Scinicata to fetch body. Flags half mast. Mission offer to lend me their launch "Nonoletta" the same boat that conveyed the bridial couple but yesterday. Off to Mabia, mission station and transfer to the "Nonoletta", so sway to Scinicata. Stiff S.E. heavy squalls
[sketch titled "OH! TAUBADA
!" with the further description "A vivila. The Bomb like spheres in basket are coconut shells which are used for conveying water. The other article, is a Moi, without which a native seldom travels. The glad eye is also true to life."]
[Page 40]
5th
Much rain. Get an awful shaking up going over. Choppy sea, head wind. At intervals an extra heavy wave hits the launch with a phlomp! sending a shower of spray aft. After some two hours of this buffeting reach Scinicata Sinaketa. It being ebb tide am carried half mile on shoulders of boys through mud, to the house wherein is corpse awaiting burial. For description of this place see entrie for March 21st. Book I. The place seemingly in a more delapitated condition than ever. Am invited to view corpse, which rests on a wooden bedstead covered with a filthy mosquitoe net. I decline, it being now well after noon, am offered refreshment. Although am feeling very tired and famished excuse myself, for God knows what filth I might be swallowing. Some fresh milk has arrived, not without trepedition I accept a glass. Whatime I smoke heavily to kill any germs that might be drifting round. Meanwhile no coffin has arrived. I send launch a matter of four or five miles to fetch same. Meanwhile I have to hang about this appalling place waiting. Sodden leaden sky, mud and humid vegitation all round. Coconut Palms, and the rotting trunks of felled trees, the usual outcrops of dirty grey coral, over which pigs root round and poultry pick. Mr X amuses himself playing with a parrot and cockatoo, the former occasionally alighting upon my bald head and pecking at my nose. The while I'm scared of the infection they might be carrying. After something over an hour, launch at last sighted, having in tow a canoe upon which rests the coffin. This is brought up to the mud and carried ashore by natives. It is but a rectangular deal box, with a smear of white paint over it, more grey than white, the brush strokes all evident. I apologise for not assisting in placing corpse in coffin. So upon a little jetty which runs out across a foreshore of rotting vegetation and mud into shallow water, I await, the while casting furtive glances up at the verandah fearful of seeing I know not what unsightly spectacle. Upon the verandah squat numerous natives, some of which attired in more or less ragged and filthy calicoes, one or two are partaking of lime, out of their gourds. Another stands with a piece of kava (charred wood) lighting a cigarette. A little group of natives gather in the vicinity of the body. There is a hollow sound as coffin is dragged across floor - a pause of silence - then the sound of hammering as lid of coffin is nailed down. A gap opens up in the group and the box appears borne on the shoulders of five boys. It is carried down the jetty and out through the shallow mud and shallow water of the lagoon and placed on a canoe. The sky a solid leaden mass, a slight drizzle of rain, which bursts into a heavy squall. I am carried by two boys through the mud to another canoe and pulled out to launch, which heaves to the blasts of wind. I scramble aboard the slippery combing of the launch every part of which latter is sodden, pools of water lie everywhere. Everything that comes to the touch squelching water. Little cascades run off the awning aft. With some difficulty get "case" aboard from the canoe which bobs up and own alongside. With some manoeuvering get the "box" nicely placed forrard and place an awning over. Up hook, and away for a twelve
[Page 41]
mile journey through the muck and slush of heavy squalls. Forrard, standing against the mast, his rami calico blowing to the breeze, stands the lookout searching for shoal waters. Sitting on the counter, hand on tiller, the steersman and another boy - a wet flag flopping round their knees; their shoulders haunched, in the hope of keeping out of the rain which lashes against them, blotting out the distant coast, or opens up as the squalls drive over. Across the horizon a streak of cobalt green, vivid contrast to the sodden sky. The foreground cut into smears of dirty yellow grey and patches of purple where coral shows through the shallows. With one sweep of nature's brush the whole is blotted out into a leaden hue, as an extra heavy squall bursts upon us. Astern the sea fumes and frothes, belting us sideways off our course. The engines purr steadily, its polished brasswork and newly painted castings, receiving constant attention from a boy, who ever and anon wipes off the rain which blows in, with the oily rag beloved of all engine rooms. The shore line opens up, we pass the "Bromilow", (schooner) straining at her moorings, flag half mast. She lifts her drooping stern clear of the waters, rolls and dips as the wateres race past her curling and tumbling to the shore beyond - figures seated astern wave silent hands. We pass through the beacons; two iron rails, with keroscene tins perched on top. And we are in the channel, our tempestuous voyage nearly completed. The mangroves and palms which form the shore line are blotted into a mass by the driving rain. As we pass Oiabia, I signal the whaler which has been standing by all day to proceed to Lousia. Slipping past the Residency I make signs to dots that are on verandah to go down to wharf. The throbbing engines cease, we swing round alongside. Police boys in full uniform come running up with a number of prisoners. D in kaki slacks and shirt, a moi on his head, running alongside him a white dog. I jump ashore, giving directions to police boys, and so damp in places, wet through and famished, I go to the Residency to notify mission, our arrival, whatime the coffin on the shoulders of boys is conveyed to the grave that for some two weeks or more has been awaiting usuage. It lies a few yards behind my studio, some palms, a young mangrove and a paw paw tree cast a shade over it. Laying around the brown and decayed palms leaves and some shorn branches that had formed a fence to it. The edge of the gaping hole are sodden and slippery. The trees drip sadly. The coffin rests on two pieces of rope the ends held by boys. In two and threes the boys come up to graveside, two police boys stand at attention. Some little distance in the background one or two vivilas craning forward as is the want of the curious on these occassions: One or two young boys push forward and crane their necks over the hole, which seems greedy to swallow its victim. At head of grave stands parson in white ducks protected from the wet by overcoat with upturned collar.
JULY
[sketch titled "PICCANIN VIVILA"]
[Page 42]
JULY
The demeanour of the natives splendid, not a sound scarcly a movement during the service which latter As the coffin (seemingly more like a packing case is lowered chunks of loosened gravel drop upon it. Service over we away, leaving boys to do the rest. So passes away a Taubada, coming from whom knows whence, to commence his journey to the great beyond. It does not seem possible that so great a contrast to the picture of yesterday would have been wrought in so short a time. That the launch should have conveyed so different a burden. Even nature herself obliterated the blues and sunlight replacing them with sad colours, attuning her mood to the occasion. At least am I most thankful P did not die yesterday, for despite what persuasion I might have used W would have left the wedding feast to attend to this official duty. D remained for kai kai, had some difficulty in getting him away as much work to do this night. Although being alone on such a night likes me not. The rain beats and thunders on the roof, the wind screams through the trees. I jump at every sound my nerves all a jangle.
6th
Prisoners to work roofing boimas and constructing new tracks. Chief hospital boy ask me what remedies to give some of the patients. I prescribed cod liver oil for all ailments, whatime I stroke my chin and make profound and inaccurate remarks as to the cause of the ailments, broken legs, cuts, bruise, all the same, cod liver oil twice daily. Dr Bromilow tells me the scheeme of the mission, is to eliminate all native customs that trend to evil, and foster all other customs in order that the natives do not loose their nationality, he say they have not the least intention of Europeanising them. Unfortunately the majority of the rank and file mission teachers are both ignorant and narrow, consequently the practice of the theory misses its mark badly, which is a pity, as presumably the mission is founded on very sound principals. One of the white men relates me a conversation that occurred between himself and the vivila he lives with. She was sitting at his feet as usual busily occupied with something, in fact one could not imagine any of these people otherwise. The vivila ceased her work and suddenly remarked: "I tink Taubada, Mr L one big sick, if 'e die, more better you marry Sinabada, she good sinabada an' plenty good piccanin" But, what will you do he replied?". - "Oh! I go back long village all same as before time". "But, wont you cry?" he asked: "ah yes, Taubada, I tink per'aps I cry a little, but more better for you, to live "long" Sinabada". What a wealth of pathos in this speech. Quite a romance could be written round this incident. Although I came here to depict this country on canvas, it seems I have spent not a little time writing? I feel somehow it is a better medium of expression and feel more convinced than ever this is not a painters country. Have I out of the enormous mess of words I have poured out this last four months. Have I succeeded in taking you along the tracks with me? Have I sufficiently envisualised the villages and the people therein? Do you see with me, the vivilas, graceful erect, with always their baskets and mois perched on head. Do
[Page 43]
you hear their merry laughter, and see the naughty twinkle of their dark eyes, the exquisite curve of heavy eyelashes, their high cheek bones and not too negroid mouths? I wonder has my method of expression been all sufficient to give you something of the life of these simple here? I hope so, for I love these simple children of nature mayhap they have a few habits that are not nice, as judged by a European standard. But in a village of grass huts with palm trees above them. They are seemingly not such heinous offences.
7th
Roof of Boimas completed. Track nearly finished. General station duties. Piccanin I prescribed for yesterday better. Work on the "Procession". Most depressing think the colour is deepening in tone and deteriorating generally. Weather fine morning, rain afternoon, too dark to see the paint. Moonlight tonight but atmosphere very heavy. My eyes not to well to-day, think the hard light must be affecting them. When looking a clouds for even a very short time, it is almost blinding. These islands possess a most quaint mythology, in conception they suggest very much childrens fairy tales. This night fine and a full moon, so on to the lagoon canoeing, I cannot mange polling but get on quite well with the paddle.
8th
7 AM Am aroused and informed Toulu, the King of the Trobriands, desires my presence. So attired in pyjamas, I receive His Majesty, the old sponge. He wanted some Tabac. Was on his way through to Kativa Kitava on Kula business. i.e. the exchange of native wealth. He took his leave after I had duly handed him ten sticks tabac, some newspapers and box of matches. However he returned a little later just as I had finished my matitunal ablutions. This time I received him attired in nothing more than a very ragged towel round my loins. I slanged the old boy unmercifully with regard to his "sponging" habits. Although he could not understand English, he got my meaning alright, he took his "chipping" like a sportsman, laughing much and quite enjoying the joke, despite that he was being "told off" in the presence of his courtiers. I asked him why he had not brought me a present; a gave a very cunning look, replying "IGAU" (Bye and Bye). Put a record on the phonograph for him, he touched his ear signifying deafness; a most fortunate condition to be in at such a moment. After he had taken his leave, one or two of his retinue hung back; following the example of their Royal Master, they too asked for tabac. I sent them flying telling them the King had plenty, such it would remain so long as this latter has the handling of it.
9 AM Walking stick in hand inspect the 100 or so prisioners, who were lined up for the purpose. Exactly what there was to inspect I had not the remotest idea: even had there been, my lack of knowledge of the subject would have precluded my observing anything untoward. Anyway the staff were duly impressed - or rather, they appeared so
[The image contains a sketch titled "30 foot whaler, the type of boat used by Govt R.M. and missionaries for transit between these ilsands"]
[Page 44]
which is the main thing. Make general tour of the station, issue rations. Hence to studio, at work on the "Procession" which appears worse every time I look at it, were it not for cost of material and shortage of time should put my foot through it. Also feel I can improve it, but should like to do it on a larger scale, using knowledge already gained on this one. Unquestionably most awfully difficult to get values and lighting correct; in this hard light where even objects in the middle distance appear harder and stronger than the foreground. Weather awful sun & rain, no breeze, insect life appalling. I make so frequent allusions re weather, many because we people I inclined to imagine the Tropics, a land of perpetual sun and blue skies. A beautiful night, full moon, not a ripple on lagoon, shall canoe to Gusaveta. Order small fellow canoe, they send me one large enough to hold a dozen. Paddling hard against ebb tide, it took me an hour and half to make journey which should not have taken more than thirty minutes. A diverting hour at L, quite a crowd there for this part of the world, two traders, a pearl buyer, and two others. Get boy to poll me home. En route up, all natives in canoes, most amused at seeing a white man paddling his own canoe, calling out "Taubada, where your boy?" Kept weather eye open for any alligators that might be straying. There should not be any this side of lagoon at this time of year, but L tells me there are two in creek close to his place. Am invited to go alligator shooting, sounds exciting, but don't much fancy, slopping round hideous mangrove swamps, and most of all dread the mosquitoes and malaria.
9th
Sunday, what is worse it felt like it. Two vivilas to "sit" one curled up and went to sleep, the other yawned the whole time, it nearly sent me off to sleep, both vivilas looked as though they had been on a tremendous "binge" last night. As with us, Sat night is there great night of the week. Messed about all day on the "Procession" hate to give in but felt feel is a hopeless mess up, and always that uncomfortable feeling subject is too large for the scale I painting it. Rain in morning, afternoon lovely but humid, making worke a great trial.
10th
General station work. Finish the "Procession", that is so "fed up" with that wish it may get destroyed. Would like to commence it again, but cannot spare colour.
11th
Station duties. Awful last night, to bed, all quiet, pull down mosquito net, whatime the insects serenade without squall from S.E. neccessitates shifting bed. Minus net, wind dies down arrival of mosquitoes, squall then blows from S.E. another shift, then also dies away, return mosquitoes, giving me earnet attention until dawn, these "fade out" are relieved by flies, which are infernally more irritating, and moreover never leave me until dusk, and no means of catching the brutes. I consider myself something of a humanitarian, but where flies are concerned, to my mind no torture is too devilish for them. At work on commercial "tripe", as a relief, the very sight of my canvases give me shivers, so utterly sick of them am I. Weather grey & wet. Heavy squalls, trees blown down.
JULY
[Page 45]
11th
Miss very much no coloured flowers. Apart from a scarlet hibiscus there are none. One or two white varieties, and a small yellow flower, and a pale blue plant is all there is in the Trobriands. It still feels strange to me that right in the Tropics, where one naturally expects to find the most brilliant plants to have none at all. One noticeable peculiarity of this country, there are no country walks, or restful sitting in the shade of a tree. When on trek, one is compelled to keep to the tracks, which are bordered either by dense scrub and weeds, to get through which it would be necessary to hack every foot of the way, or there are mangrove swamps, an all sufficient reason for not straying from the tracks. These latter are all some similar in appearance, that it is only by such landmarks as a felled tree or some very subtle difference in the formation of coral, that it is at all possible to surmise in which part of the Island one is. There is small possibility, however, of getting "bushed" as all the tracks lead to a village.
12th
W and his Mrs return from their honeymoon, presume I shall now have to behave myself and do all my swearing in French, which is a pity, for a good honest damn is much more a relief to one's injured feelings. Wonder how I shall get on with the Bossess. Glad the A.R.M foolery is over so I can get on with my own work. All day endevouring to think out some new jokes. Weather, rain squalls
13th
At work on commercial Tripe. Day, wet, sodden no sun at all. Don't feel the least inspired or up to serious Art.
14th
Work on small sketch. Find it rather a trial living with newly married people, fortunately W does not do the "my ootsy tootsie" fooleries. They are quite sensible, nevertheless I fell rather an odd number. Must betake myself to some of the villages sketching.
15th
Little better work to-day. Weather, rain, thunderstorm.
16th
Writing the whole day. Weather awful, rain crashing upon roof all [indecipherable] night without a break until 3.30PM this afternoon.
17th
Everything that could go wrong did so this day, excepting strange to relate the weather, which though grey did not rain. Started from Lousia 9AM in the launch, the engines of which, naturally, were out of order, so we polled along, it's a brute of a boat, you only have to show it a picture of a wave and it will roll like the devil. I have five prisioners and a cook boy, with me. To we people who live in cities and take taxi, train, bus or any other form of conveyance that will save walking - a staff of six seems almost regal. But when travelling in this country, it is none too many. It must be borne in mind that when travelling here there are no hotels and the other end, or hostels en route, neither are there shops where one can purchase any little thing that has been omitted when from one's kit. You have to take everything you require, and what is more important, remember so to do. Unfortunately being "new chum" I did not remember - First I despatched one boy for some forgotten article, then another, and another, until I found myself left with one boy only. I then had to wait for the return of the other five, before I could proceed. A little further on the journey I discovered I had no milk, by this I was near Charlie L place, so procured some from there. With the milk came a note from that inimitable wit, Charlie, which naturally obtained matter, causing me much mirth, the boys seeing me laugh, all joined in, although they wot not the cause of my laughter. Nevertheless there
[The image contains a sketch of a vivila and piccanin but with no title]
[Page 46]
17th
there was a joke afoot, that was a good enough reasons for these lovers of humour. So laugh they did. Milk aboard once more away. have travelled about a couple of miles, run aground, on an ebb tide. Nope hope of getting off until flood tide, which meant waiting a matter of five hours, with the unpleasant odours that were being wafted to me from the mangrove swamps, but a few yards distant, this did not appeal to me. After a cup of tea and a paw paw, hail some canoes that are a few yards astern, after much shouting and palavoar, induce one of the canoes to take me to the nearest village, some few miles distant, continue journey to my destination, KARIBI, in canoe. For some miles we had to skirt these filthy and forbidding swamps which I am informed are infested with alligators. I think we are much too close for my comfort. There not being enough water, the boys had to get out and pull the canoe, the bottom frequently rasping on the mud covered coral. It is necessary to see and smell a mangrove swamp to fully appreciate how loathsome and hideous they are. Sticking through the mud and dirty brown waters are thousand of sharp pointed roots, like sharpened stakes in appearance. The smaller scrub trees send down base branches vertically to the water, which act as suckers. The roots of all trees are exposed, displaying horribly contorted and gnarled limbs, which intertwine like serpents, all are covered with slime. Upon the mud were numerous horrible little black crabs, which scattered and ran up the tree limbs at our approach. The folige above is very heavy shutting out the light and filling the swamps with perpetual twilight. The stench of the decomposing vegetation was appalling. Was very thankful when this part of the journey was over. I kept a sharp eye for alligators, which are very difficult discern, even at short range they resemble nothing so much as a log lying in the water. Seemingly the boys were not giving the reptiles a thought, a question of a familiarity I suppose. Reach village of OBULAKA on the beach see one of my favourite models who has returned home from the hospital at Lousia. This little maid is a past mistress of coquetry. Pretended not to see me when I landed, nevertheless when the villages came down to see the Taubada, as is their custom, this young lady much in evidence gave her a piece of Tabac. I had taught her when she was "sitting" for me, to say thank you, which she does very prettily. To-day she substituted the Papuan equivalent when I opened her hand and placed a piece of Tabac therein. What she said might have had quite a different meaning, but I know not the language, which is just as well perhaps. Kadikavina possessed the better figure of the two, but this one a merry child, full of laughter. After her encounter with me I noted she was receiving no end of chaff from the other vivilas of the village. However all the vivilas of this village appeared particularly skittish this afternoon, pushing each other about when they caught sight of me. I noted one woman and infant with very pale skins. It is the custom
JULY
[Page 47]
I believe, shortly before a woman is to give birth, she does everything possible to get her skin a light colour, divers means are used, one being to keep out of the sun as much as possible. The prevalent idea is that dark skinned people are born that colour, actually it is not so, a newly born child has a very light skin. It is the sun that darkens them. The skin of the underneath of feet and the palms of the hands of adults are quite pale, some almost the same colour as a European. I have noticed a marked difference in the colour of the skin on parts of the body where some amulet or other object has been worn. One or two of the villagers and a few piccanins see us out of the village our escort having left us. I then commence a journey along about the most infamous track it is possible to imagine. Composed of pin point coral, the name is an all sufficient index as to the nature of the ground. I call it track, for lack of a more expressive definition. This track runs up and down like a switchback, in places it is almost vertical, there was not a square inch of this coral flat, not even time had worn down the sharp edges, each side of track heavy bush which precluded any breeze coming through to clear the heavy, humid and sometimes foetid atmosphere. I had about three miles of this to travers. The whole of the land on this part of Kiriwina is the same formation. A fairly flat path of a few yards led on to the beach. I was in search of some caves that contain the bones of ancient warriors. These caves are very jealously guarded by the natives, and are in a most inaccessable position on the coast. I had to go along about two miles of coral strewn beach. On the land side much heavy scrub and hideous pandanus, most grotesque looking trees looking in appearance. I continued for about mile and half but tide prevented further progress. Why will people when talking to strangers refer to a place as "Oh just a short distance" W guesses the distance to Bone Caves as a mile, a taximan's computation would have been seven, actually I suppose, it is about two & half miles. Breakers were rolling in over reef a little heavier than usual, a good fresh breeze and fourtunately in this instance, no sun. Should not have risked walking this distance on blazing sands. Return via WAWELA village. Another three miles of this appalling pin point track, reach KARIBI. Very tired, very hungry, expecting to find launch and kai kai ready. Not a sign of the damn boat. Waiting until nearly dark, could just see launch miles off, get a canoe to go to it, darkness hide launch. We then break our pole so drift until a substitute is made from part of the canoe. Last thing water too deep for pole, no paddle, have to return to Karibi to await launch, which eventually arrives five hours late. Got on board anticipating a wash, no towel, no bread, fruit [indecipherable]. Warm up tin of stew and some taitu
[Page 48]
which after a ten hours fast, most acceptable, and so to bed in this stuffy overheated cabin.
July 18
Awful night cabin like an oven, it blew hard. Was compelled to close all ports, this naturally added to my discomfort. Woke at 7AM to find cook boy making tea. A fine morning, obtained quite a successful study. 12 noon, up sail & away but what sails, riddled with holes made by cockroaches, gaff in two pieces, likewise the boom. beast of a boat, would not answer her tiller. Had it hard up, but she would not come into the wind, also steering gear out of order. She steered like a lobster pot. Once well away had to make land somehow, fortunately only light breeze, nevertheless I feel decidedly uncomfortable as you never know what sort of weather is coming to you until it strikes. I was the only one on board with any knowledge of seamanship, at that very little, perhaps it were better without any, anyway shall not sail this bus again. Shall keep to the shallows and pole her along. Had a little trouble with one of the prisoners who had decided to return to Lousia, without my permission. consequently I made talk to the whole bunch giving them to understand that although I was not Government I would stand no humbug. Reach Sineketa about 3.30 had to send two boys ten miles for some fresh milk, and another twelve miles for bread. No use being in a hurry in this country. Wanted to make LOIA by 6PM but shall not reach until to-morrow mid-day. I still cannot get used to the time it takes travelling. Ashore to the village sketching. I had turned a leaf of my book, on the reverse side was a coloured chalk drawing, piccaninns squatted on the ground to get a glimpse of it. My sketch completed. Thought I would try an experiment, called all the village to have a "look see", they were six deep, possibly more, but my line of sight was cut out by the numerous heads. Showed a chalk drawing of some palms, they became quite excited, but when I showed them a pen drawing of a vivila with a parrot on her arm, their excitement broke all bounds, the piccaninns jumped and hugged each other, the adults demonstrated their excitement not so noisily, but not far off. I had been told that these people could not understand illustration, that they could comprehend these rough sketch, is sufficient evidence that they can. I thought it rather strange that a people who could conventialise animals, fish and reptiles in such a masterly manner, should not be able to understand an illustration. See a fleet of six DOBU canoes. One resembled very much a fifteenth century galleon, naturally in a very minute form. The DOBU boy was slinging stones a distance of about five hundred yards. Slings are one of their weapons, on the mainland and very effectively they used them. Have had a fly rigged up on top of cabin where D.V. I hope to sleep to night, however am keeping one of the boys on board with me, in case there is a blow, don't like this packet she's top heavy. As I write, two boy are [indecipherable] at light
July
[sketch titled "NEW GUINEA ARMED CONSTABULARY"]
[Page 49]
on top of cabin, there heads over the edge, which are lit by the hurricane lamp that is placed in the cockpit. Another boy seated aft, on the tiller smoking, two canoes alongside the occupant arms resting on bulwark of launch. Exchange greetings with my boys. The gentle breeze wafts the sound of a native chant, from the village some quarter of a mile distant. The flickering fires on the edge of water are reflected into the semblance of a golden serpent, by the movement of the water which is almost smooth
July 19
Midnight cook boy aboard to boil milk, meanwhile he allows his canoe to get adrift, up anchor in chase of it. Night, clear sky stars out. Cook boy away, efforts to resume my disturbed rest. Just before dawn a blow comes up, rips the awning off and wraps it round me like a shroud, the supporting poles come adrift, some fall over the sides, others assit the canvas to hold me down. Boy to the rescue, we manged to save the bed from getting wet. Half dead with sleep am compelled to remain in the fetid atmosphere of the cabin, meanwhile my boys who had been sleeping in the village, were late in getting aboard. Told them to come at sunrise, but since there was no sun, presume they experienced difficulty in judging the time. "IGAU" boys aboard, up anchor and away. Much difficulty in getting into creek, aground several times. Then about two miles of winding creek between mangrove swamps, these latter not quite so forbidding in appearance as some, trees very tall and straight, some few however, grotesque shapes, it was Rackham out Rackhamed. One tree in particular resembled very much a prehistoric beast, the trunk broken off half way up, the four boughs that remained, left in such position that they look like paws, the two upper, bare up to the branches at the end which hung down vertically, the lower two limbs gripping the mud on the waters edge. With considerable difficulty contrive to reach head of creek, and the village LOIA. I was out to see some caves. W told me, they were just a short distance through a garden. One of his "new chum stunts I presume. The garden was there alright, but undergoing it's five years fertilisation. i.e. the garden remains unused and the heavy vegetation is permitted to grow over it. Two boys had to cut a track for me, all the vegetation as usual sodden, the rain I wiped off with my pants as I pushed my way through, at the end of half a mile, I was soaked through from feet up to my waist. The worst was yet to come. Another half mile and a steep ascent over coral, its jagged edges hidden by the dense growth. A goat might have stood a chance on such a track, but for the mere human, it was almost an impossibility. I slipped and slithered the whole journey, the folige dripped, the coral was slippery, and where there was soil, was mushy. I bumped and tore myself through every yard. I didn't swear, for the logical reason that no words would have been sufficiently adequate to express my feelings a further steep ascent and the caves hove to view. A weird place, lit by an eerie green light, which came from above, where the folige closed out the sky. In places the roof reached a height of some eighty feet, supported by grotesque formations of columns, and stalactites, which dripped - more water. Oh dear is there no end to all this liquidity, in the wholes above, glimpse of green and heavy tree trunks. Weeds hanging down their snakelike tentacles, gripping such rocks as they can obtain a hold of. Patches of jet black where the caves run into the earth. How far back I know not. I did not feel emboldened to explore, these holes suggesting too much a fit hid hiding cachet for snakes. Meanwhile my six boys have arrived with my oil sketch box, easel, stool, tent and such other kit, that I did not require same is obvious. On the return journey I straggled behind, getting hopelessly lost in the heavy bush. After much hallooing, my guides pick me up. in the interim had put my foot on a piece of coral that was not there, cutting my knee badly and breaking my walking stick (an old pal) but this saved me a broken leg
JULY
[Page 50]
and ripped another hole in my already much torn pants. Meet cook boy with my kai kai. Ask him how far village. He say "close up village" not wishing to remain longer in the bush, go on to village, there idea of near is however, anything from half to a mile. Another forty minutes and reach village, partake of my lunch in the shelter of a Bomia, whatime a pig with very satisfactory grunts sucks the heel of my boot; and what boots, sandles would be a better term, for the uppers are in ribbons. How they hung together at all is a marvel. These two villages though not mission, are in a very delapitated condition, and a poor looking class of native, but the dogs, never held such specimens. One in such condition, I order its immediate destruction. The graves of this village, quite the most elaborate I have seen in the Trobriands. Which however is not saying much. Two of them had moi placed over their end. Appeared well cared for. Result of todays futile journey cut knee, ripped pants, broken stick, part of easel missing, two boys with feet cut. Not enough water to get away, do not fancy a five hour wait in mangrove swamp. Hire Kativa canoe to take me along to Poole's station, which is some two miles distant. It was fortunate I decided so to do. Shortly after starting, down came more rain, completing my sousing. Arrive at Poole's but he away order his vivila to make me hot bath and give me change of clothes - (Pooles) make myself quite at home. What is more I intend remaining the night, he would have to throw me out bodily before I will budge an inch, tired of always being wet, - moreover want a decent night sleep, which has been practically impossible on launch. Two villages visited to day. BADELLA & LOIA
July 20th
Nothing of subject matter for the brush in this spot, but here I'm stuck until whaler arrives for me, have enough of the launch, returned her to Lousia. Apart from his activities fishing Beche-de-mer, a loathsome sea slug the shape of a sausage, which are cured and exported to China, where they are made into soup and are considered a great delicacy. P keeps a store, wherein are 'Trade" articles, cheap grimcrack mirrors, beads, dancing ornaments, bottles of scent, Tabac etc. Also belts of native wealth. He has one large belt of considerable elaboration, the natives are so intrigued when they see it, that they feel compelled to purchase one of the smaller and cheaper belts, it acts on the native minds much as in an attractive window display has upon the European. The torrential rains continue. I hear that the white residents of these islands are seriously considering the construction of an Ark. Meanwhile I have been dubbed Him, the Rainmaker. See some wood carving by the EWA islanders, very crude in every respect, their rather too faithful reproduction of parts of the human anatomy that are of no artistic value, adds nothing of beauty, to these crude works. Whether or no these additions were made from lewd inclinations or a desire to reproduce faithfully the human form, knowing nothing of these people. I am not in a position to say, I think more possibly the latter case, the figures being represented in quite normal attitudes, the male figure is in the pose of carrying something. Although EWA is an island but a few miles distance, their carving is as crude as the Trobriand Islands craftsmanship is excellent. Curing Beche-de-Mer, the odours not pretty, so away to the "Aero" for some fresh air, also to see if anything paintable, but no go, long stretches of monotonous mangroves, patches of sand, dirty grey green water, leaden hued sky, most depressing. Showers of rain, heavy atmosphere. en route to shore a shark came up and made a slight fuss astern of dingy, had he continued his importunities, a clout over the snout with an oar would have routed him.
July 21
KULITOVA wearies me, a most dull place, the day very depressing. Cold and wet. Feel a strong desire to once more slip my anchor, induced by living in a climate places one in the condition of either being always in damp or soaking raiment or remaining caged up indoors. No waterproof can withstand these torrential rains, which after four months
[Page 51]
gives no sign of abating. Two oil sketches, all I manage to get this week.
22nd
Return to Lousia in whaler, splendid breeze, tide in our favour, accomplished journey one hour & half, whaler being a very swift vessel. Luck is in to-day - reaching Lousia just in time. Torrential rain, squalls and thunder ever since.
23rd
Work in studio, have at last found a successful method of treating palm leaves, which up to date has been a great botheration to me. I learn that the two boys who guided me to the caves, purposely chose the most difficult track, for the same reason that a taximan might drive his fare a most circuitous route to run up the fare. Though in the former case the effort was futile. I gave them no extra Tabac. Trobriand honesty has fallen from grace. The lure of vermillion has been too much for one of them, a tube of this colour has been spirited away, but how will the purloiner of this precious colour be able to wear it without discovery, there is a possibility he may trade it with some other colour, in which case any chance of its recovery are done, and I'm very short of the pigment. Shouldn't be at all surprise next dancing season, to see a bevy of vermilion faces. The S.E. winds which clear the atmosphere, making it possible for the whites to live through the rigours of the N.W. season, have not eventuated. The last four months the winds have been playing battedor [battedor is meant to be battledore as in the game battledore and shuttlecock] & shuttlecock with the clouds, first driving the rain in one direction, veering to the opposite points of the compass, blowing all the wet back again. Nothing have I seen of the wonderful colour of the tropic, rich sapphire, emeralds, purples and the many wonderous hues are not; in place it has been an endless procession of hideous grey days, leaden sombre, occasionally an almost fine day, giving a glimpse of what wonderous possibilities lay in store, if only the weather would become normal. To-day the wind is right N.W. The atmosphere heavy as lead, almost numbing ones mental faculties. The air full of insects, and flies appalling. At meals much time is occupied ladeling them out of the soup and tea. All day I am tormented by them in the studio. Often when painting in a particularly difficult piece of detail, these obnoxious insects are crawling round my neck, arms and hands. Despite the many trials I am undergoing and the almost feeling of despair with which I regard my many blank canvases, the fascination of this land still holds me.
24th
Work in studio. Judge Murray in an address on Anthropology, relates a very droll method of eradicating cannibalism. - as follows. Savages are just as great snobs as we are; and if you appeal to their snobbery you can get them to do a great deal. So, if you can get it into their heads that cannibalism is not good form, and is rather looked down upon by the "nicest" people of Papua, and that a cannibal can hardly be received in the best villages, they will give it up quickly enough. At least that was my experience in the country of NAMAU. They gave up cannibalism and, so far as we could see substituted a pig for the human body. Weather, wet, atmosphere heavy. First case of vermilion epidemic broke out to-day but, as the colour was given to the patient by a boy who had had it presented to him, my hopes of recovering my pigment are nil.
25th
Comfortable under the mosquitoe net, feel a fluttering and flopping close to my nose, am put to the neccessity of chucking out a young flying fox, pretty little animal. To the village of Kavataria to make some studies. Always difficult working in this village, the people are very cheeky, particularly as I cannot refrain from laughing at their antics, which makes them more excitable than ever. As for the vivilas, they are the naughtiest wenches on the island; posing themselves to be in the sketch, running to and fro, to see how the drawing is progressing, dancing and making antics in front of me, finishing by poking me in the ribs and divers other portions of my anatomy. Although I was feeling very annoyed, I simply had to laugh, it was so ridiculous. Saw some curious fish, minus fins and tails,
[sketch titled "IGAU (Bye and bye) GINI GINI (to paint)"]
[Page 52]
25
Horizontal stripes of light and dark blue, very brilliant, they resembled very much pieces of silk ribbon in the water. Weather very hot, wind N. all the whites - two - walking about like half dead flies. Myself weltering in the studio, endeavouring to execute masterpieces which did not eventuate and never likely to in this climate. All my works looking awful, colour detoriating. Wondering if I'm not a fool to hang on any longer. Reading "Guinea Gold" (Grimshaw) a clever work and I should think is a very true picture of the country and life in Papua.
26th
So closes another day of futile effort; pigment working like putty; ceaseless onslaughts of flies and mosquitoes, atmosphere heavy as lead. This morning a blaze of sunshine; scarcely a ripple on the lagoon, which looked like a sheet of grey satin, the pathways dazzling white that make the eyes ache; the sky by contrast heavy and leaden, broken here and there by patches of dirty blue. The leaves of the palm trees cut into a thousand points of hard light almost bleaching the colour out of the leaves. The trunks almost a hard white grey in the strong light, standing out sharply against a background of heavy green, where they stood against the rising ground, brown grey where they are silouhetted against the lagoon waters. Two parrots flying overhead screaming to each other, as though travellers holding intelligable converse. The cat lays limp and sprawling upon the verandah steps, until such time as Taleuga, the cook-book, attired in scarlet calico, with a dish cloth thrown over his brown shoulder, shall disturb it. Underneath the Residency, which is built on piles, a house boy is busy ironing the week's calicoes (washing) whatime two village boys lean against the posts and hold converse. On the grounds below, boys and vivilas squat close to their baskets of plaited palm leaf, which contain taitu, awaiting the police boy to throw them the half sticks of Tabac in exchange for the kai kai, some few sit in the [indecipherable] hard of the shadows cast by the palms which border the track at the edge of the lawn, beyond this track are the police boys sago thatched huts; outside which the police boys vivilas busy themselves with their domestic duties, whatime the piccanin gamble on the pathway. A goregeous butterfly with wings of ultramarine and blacks, makes a streak of dazzling colour as it flutters by. Numerous hornets, their long legs hanging like the chassis of an aeroplane, flit about seeking lilkey spots whereon to build nests. The weatcock which surmounts the little palm thatched structure of the meteorological house, swings now N now S. Then as always, the ever threatening sky drops, such rain! one has to shout when speaking. Very quickly the paths become swiftly running currents, small lakes form in such parts of the grounds as are undulating. And I take solemn oaths, that I will pack up and quit by the next boat to Samurai, but as this may be six days or as many weeks, by which time probably I shall have cooled down, and decided to hang on a little longer in the hope of seeing the Tropics as I had always visualised them and as they are invariably described in books. Inspiration possess I none; the desire to paint, not at all. In the studio at times almost too dark to work, am endevouring to portray a village by moonlight, this night a very weak moon tries to penetrate a sodden sky, without success. The pimba which some four months back was left unrepaired as the S.E. season was just due, has at last been mended, consequently at meals it is the insects that are at a disadvantage not us, as had hitherto been the case. One of the vivilas from the hospital came to ask permission to return to her village. She said "I altogether too much sick since I 'long hospital, I go home
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get altogether well, then I come back long hospital" truth to tell suppose the dancing season is on in her village. See some more good specimens of wood-carving, when it is considered how primitive these people are in all else; it is astounding that they should be so advanced with their word-carving. In design it is worthy of the best traditions of the Italian Renaissance. There is rythm in their arrangement that is full of movement; with all the balance and spacing is perfect. The naivete and sound sense of design in their conventional interpretation of animals birds etc is well worthy of study. I have a lime spoon the design of which is very suggestive of the strap ornament in vogue in Europe during the 16th & 17th centuries. Their very human figures are bizarre and some of the larger specimens are not without dignity, once they depart from the conventionalised figure, their efforts at realistic portrayal are very crude and ill proportioned and lacking in dignity. Attached to the ridge poles of the older Boimas is an effigy called a "TOQUALU", as is placed there to ward off evil spirits. Seen "in situ" these Toqualu are not dissimilar to gargoyles. They are grenerally carved with a grinning face. The treatment of the limbs is much the same as in their vertical figures, both are ample evidence of the craftsman ability. Acknowledging the limitations of their medium, they apparently found this the most strongest and most effective method of treating the human form. Although in rare cases the teeth are treated in a naturalistic style, the more common practice is to conventionalise, in one of the rough sketches, further back in this book. Note the band of ornament on the forehead to balance the teeth. Note the extraordinarily clever manner in which the forelegs decoration on the forelegs of the pig is balanced by scroll work on the tail. The most remarkable achievement of these consummate craftsmen is, that when commencing their carving, they make no mesurements or preliminary drawing on the piece of wood to be decorated, but work out their design as they proceed. We people who are accustomed to take careful mesurements, using a compass to obtain an accurate circle, may well be astounded at the fact that these artists will cut out a KABOMA (food bowel) get a true circle without any mechanical assistance. In the flowing ornament with which these bowels are decorated, there is no botching in the spacing of the scrolls, one might presuppose that by the time the craftsman had got round the circle, he might find himself with insufficient space for a complete scroll. In those Kabomas that I have seen I have seen there has been no suggestion of this. Of the numerous specimens of carving that I have examined, I have found throughout the same masterly design, some carefully finished others less so, but their appears to be no possibility of so doing. With the advance of civilisation bringing in its wake commercial interests in common with other remote nations, these Islanders are gradually loosing their craft, giving their attention to producing carving of an inferior quality for the purposes of trading, with the result that the work does not receive the same careful treatment, thought and workmanship that was hitherto the custom when carving articles for their own usage. Coming into more frequent contact with the white people the natives are loosing much of their naivete the naivete in their carving, attempting figures and animals with in a naturalistic manner, with disasterous results; the work being both crude in form and ill balanced in design, but their executing of walking sticks, in design most excellent, though grenerally the result is more decorative than useful
Concerning WOOD-CARVING
[sketch titled "CONVENTIONAL TREATMENT OF SNAKES. From a New Guinea wood carving. Trob' Islands. Snake's head"]
[Page 54]
Prior to the advent of the white man, the roughing out use to be done with a stone adze, the more intricate details worked with sharp stones or burnt out. To give a
finish to the surface, the skin of a stingaree [a variety of stingray] was utilised. En passant, the skin of this fish makes a splendid substitute for sandpaper and for some purposes is vastly superior. At the present time the hewing out of the main proportions is executed with a steel tomahawk, and nails are used for working the more delicate portions of the design, sandpaper has not, however, been substituted for finishing off, they still use the skin of a stingaree.
27th
Vile day, in morning too dark to see to paint, the afternoon cool breeze and sun, tonight the rain is crashing on the roof. Poole arrived about seven, his left hand smothered in blood. At twelve noon, he had cut it badly, could not steem the flow of blood, eventually decieded to to come to Lousia, a journey of 15 miles across the water. The hospital being devoid of chloroform W had to operate without, P was very brave scarcely a murmur, he must have been in agony while the operation was in progress. I held the lamp whatime a swarm of sandflies settled upon me, but I dare not move. What a pest these damned insects are. Fear all the colours on my works are darkening, which means four months hard toil "gone west". From what I can see, to paint in this country is to attempt the impossible. The first day I landed I foresaw I had a difficult proposition to tackle, but I never anticipated it would be quite so impossible. What with this and the damnable climate, I'm feeling a very little person indeed at the moment.
28th
Work in studio. 1PM Leave in whaler for village of KULUVITU. Fresh breeze whaler sailed like a bird, reach Boli Head in about half an hour, and the landing place for our destination, about an hour later, which was exceedingly good going. We land in a small sandy cove on the edge of swamp. Scramble over a coral ridge in places worn smooth by the passage of generations of naked feet; that aeons ago must have gone to rest, evidently in some remote age, this track must have been much utilised. On either side, tall mangrove trees, straight as pillars, towering to the sky, some festooned with creeper, a flash of brilliant scarlet and vivid green as parrots disturbed in their fastness fly off screeching, a white Cocakatoo wings past, a streak of white, above on all sides is the screeching and rioting of the disturbed feathered world. The coral is mostly covered with rich green moss, which lit by shafts of sunlight streaming through the trees, looks very brilliant. Butterflies red & ultermarine make splashes of dazzaling colour as they come within the golden rays of the sun. Once away from the coast the track becomes more level, coral giving place to the usual choclate coloured earth, on either side palms and swamp. A snake glides across the track, to hide itself in the fastness of the sodden undergrowth. En route, pass through village of LIBUTIMA, about twenty huts in all, a very sleepy lifeless looking place, the usual collections of large eared bony dogs, a few pigs and a mangy kitten. What few villagers there are, presumably are working in their gardens, or attending to their nets. Another half mile brings us to KULUVITU, this village is badly struck by the vermilion epidemic. I thought best not to inquire how they came by the colour. The Dancing Season being in progress, piccaninies scarce able to toddle are gloriously besmeared with my pigment. Grandmams likewise, and the vivilas - oh dear -! these bold naughty hussies! paid me many attentions until they discovered there was "gala tabac" (no tobacco) Despite this most henious poverty on my part, the vivilas were most anxious for me to see them singing. I used the word see, in its correct sense, for the movement of the songs are quite as important as the words,
JULY
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from where I was sketching I could hear their weird chanting, always fascinating despite its lack of variations. My work finished, I to have a look. There they were, twenty of them in the full glory of vermilion streaked faces, helped out with divers other colours. Much beaded and shell bedijened. They sat in two rows, facing each other, legs out straight, feet touching the opposite row, in their hands a pandanus leaf on the ends of which little white bobles, with the lilting movement of the song, they cause these leaves to flutter, which gives the effect of corn waving in the wind. It is a very quaint movement and is particularly favoured on these Islands. I got one of my vivila models to repeat the movement, to see if I could master it. I had a good try, but my interpretation was a very clumsy business. The 2nd movement of the song, I say second - for all I know it might have been a different song. They sat facing me in two lines swaying the body from the hips to the rythm of the song. The 3rd song or movement, the took the same position as in the 1st but did not use the pandanus leaves. They placed their hands palm to palm as in the position of prayer, moving the hands from the wrist, swaying the body. Each verse is finished with a crescendo and the night up thrust vertically - oh the "Glad eye" and winks that came my way! The front row of a comic opera chorous is mid-Victorian proprietory compared to these saucy minxs bless 'em all. The Dancing Season is practically a Harvest Festival. After the garden crops have been harvested, the natives have a MILAMALOA. During this time the BALOMA (spirits) are present in the village, where preparations are made to receive them special platforms are made for the spirits use. Gifts of food are offered them. After the full moon is over, these spirits are ceremonially but unceremoniously driven away. The natives find great pleasure and enjoyement in bringing home the harvest. He loves his garden and takes a genuine pride in his crops. Before they are stacked in the Boimas (food-houses) which are the largest and most picturesque buildings in a village, he takes several opportunities of displaying his produce. When the taitu is taken out of the ground, they are cleaned of all earth, the hair with which they are covered is shaved off with a shell and they are placed in conical heaps. In the gardens special shelters are constructed to protect the taitu from the sun, under which shelter the vegetables are displayed. A large conical heap in the centre representing the choice of the yield, the inferior qualities stacked round. Considerable time and care is spent in cleaning and piling the tubers artistically into heaps; in order that the geometrical form may be perfect, and none but the best taitu visible, in much the same manner as do greengrocers their window display, except that in the former case the vegetables are not arranged for necessary purposes. Parties from the village walk about the gardens, paying each other visits, and admiring the displays. The yams may remain thus on show for a couple of weeks after which they are carried into the village. These proceedings possess withal a festive character. The carriers decorating themselves with with leaves and such flowers as are in season. And of course their faces are elaborately decorated with scrolls etc. When the proccession enters a village the party shout a litany, one man saying the words, the others responding. Having finished the chant, the vegetables are made into conical heaps, in much the same manner as in the gardens. These heaps are made
THE MILAMALA July
[sketch titled "TROBIAND ISLAND WIDOW . NOT THE LENGTH OF RAMI."]
[Page 56]
28th
in the large circular space which forms the centre of the village each pile being placed in front of the Boima where the tubers will be finally stored, but before this happens the taitu will remain another fortnight or so to be counted and admired again. They are covered with palm leaves to protect them from the sun. Finally there is another festive day in the village before the vegetables are eventually stored in the Boimas. The Harvest garnered and stored, there is a lull in agricultural activities and the Milamala commenced. The ceremony which inaugurates this festive season is at the same time a "consecration" of the drums. Prior to this no public beating of drums is permissable, but after the inauguration, the drums may be thumped all day and all night if the perpetrators of this horrific noise feel so disposed. The ceremonies commence with a distribution of food called a SAGALI. The cooked food is placed in heaps in KABOMAS and baskets. Then a man goes to each heap calling out a name, whereupon the wife or other female relative of the man takes the food and carries into his house, wherein it is eaten. The eating is done in each individual hut, they do not forgather to eat. The festive element lies in the preparation and collection of cooked food, in making it all common property for each villager has to contribute his share to the general stock. The festive season being now in full swing, it seems hardly fair to me to leave my tubes of colour laying about, it is carrying temptation too far. I imagine a Drapers Emporium leaving wonderful creations laying around in such a manner that they could be obtained by necessitous fair damsels almost for the picking up. My studio possessing not doors, any distressful maiden could walk in and take a squeeze of that "perfectly divine" vermilion or chrome - "Oh dear, it suits my dark skin admirably" etc etc. Just a little squeeze of this wonderous colour, trip to the hut to try it on, to emerge carrying their pilferings screaming at me. And with what naivete will they explain how they came by this gorgeous plumage. Having, for the [indecipherable], heard and seen all of the singing I desired. Off to see W purchase some land for the Mission. Two of these bloated landowners were paid the munificent sum of two shillings and four sticks of Tabac, upon receipt of this amount, these proud possessions were highly elated. Sun being on the wane away for the beach. The usual scrambling, slipping and stumbling over the rough coral ridge, in almost darkness so to the sandy cove, kai kai and the reek of swamp. It was a rough and ready meal, tinned tounge and bread & butter, tea sans sugar, sans milk, the Bossers had the packing of the Tucker Box, being new to the game, seriously important items were omitted, including playing cards, this latter a sad loss. Meal over, into the whaler and away, to get through passage in reef before setting of the moon, which is in its first quarter. Scarcely a ripple on the water, a star splashed sky. W & self laying at full length in the stern sheets, not a sound save the creaking of oars in the rollocks, and the heavy breathing of the rowers as the [indecipherable] to the oars. A slight scratching and bumping as we get through the reef, then up sail; as we get away from the shelter of the land, Pouff! up came the wind, the sails fill, the boat heels to the gust, we are away at a
JULY
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spanking pace, the spume sizzling in our wake, every minute the wind is freshening, the clear sky becoming mottled with clouds; slack out the sheets a little. We tear through the passage, the moon has vanished, the sky become overcast, and the sea getting up. I don't at all like the look of it. Waves loom up out of the darkness, threatening as though to fall overboard, the froth up round the counter drop, and go racing into the darkness astern, each wave that appears is larger than the former. The seas breaking and frothing on every hand, the whaler sticking her nose into it scooping up the seas with the bows, or lifting out of the water and dropping with a resounding crash, that almost pulls the masts from their sockets, or seemingly so. On our port bow, some mile away, a dangerous coral reef on a lee shore. The whaler is now fairly wallowing in the steep to cross seas, the wind shrieking through the stays, the halyards rattling against the mast, with a sound like the report of pistols; one of the boys bailing out the ever increasing volume of water that is coming in over the side and also from a slight leak, a common ailment to this old tub, though not much to worry about. There is worse ahead of us when we get through this villainous passage, which runs between Kaileuna & Kiriwina islands. I've my heart in my mouth that W will put up one of his damn fool "New chum stunts" and try to make the passage, a difficult enough task in daylight. He ask "shall he make for LEBOL, "can a duck swim" I must admit that despite my funk, I cogitated - being then ignorant of all the conditions making the passage - whether it wouldn't be better to make a run for Lousia and a comfortable bed - just then another sea hit us, it didn't take me a second to decide to make for land - and that, the quicker the better - wave upon wave came tumbling up out of the blackness - we were ashore in a few minutes. Oh the relief to feel solid earth under my feet, and snugly in the Government Rest House, the usual sago thatched native constructed building, this is the place I've already referred to as the cage. Oh the comfort of laying tucked up in our stretcher beds. The wind ever growing in volume, whistling and howling through the palms. Lashing the sea upon the shore with thunderous crashes. Don't suppose the boys were sorry to land. Already they'd had a five mile pull at the oars and there were only six instead of the usual twelve boys. Apart from a few bananas, they'd had no kai kai, they forgot to supplies themselves and by the time we had obtained some from the village, their was no time to cook it, as we had to get through the reef before dark. Their rest and refreshment came none too soon. Fortunately
[sketch titled "DOBIAN CANOE. Carrys crew of twelve. Note its semblance to a 15th century Galleass"]
[Page 58]
28th
myself being a greater funk than a fool, we very wisely landed at Lebola.
29th
6AM Cup of tea and bread & butter, kit aboard and away, Taleuga who is also our boat boy, said the sea had gone down a little personally I did not like the look of it, sky appears very treacherous - but then anything rougher than a lake in a private garden, always does worry me these days - also judging by my experiences of the weather in this country - it is not what you are actually getting that matters so much, as what it might develop into. As happened yesterday, we started off in a calm sea and clear sky; in less than an hour, the sea was a seething cauldron and heavy clouds above. W in his usual optimistic manner remarked "We just have to make" two tacks and we can "run free" to Lousia - more fooleries - we got away in good time, sails well full, and started to beat through the passage, against wind and a hell of a tide rip. After the first half hour everything and everybody was wet through. Never did I tire so of a view as I did of those heads of Boli Point on the one side, Kaileuna head on the other. We were tacking for five hours, on each "board" making about an eighth of a miles, possibly less, certainly never more. On some tacks we didn't gain an inch. Going about was always bungled, what could natives who spend their lives, digging gardens and at the most, paddling canoes, know of seamanship. The result that every time we went about, we lie wallowing in the trough of the seas, being beaten back by wind and this awful tide rip, then commenced what I presume was a "new chum" foolery, for no-one accustomed to boats, would lay to lee'ard, at a moment when a boat shipped two green seas in succession. I was so irritated that I swore long and loudly at the deliquent then an extra big sea hit us, lifting our bows clean out of the water and smothering us all with spray, we dropped into the trough with a resounding thwack, that spang the blankey boat, water came in almost faster than the boys could bail. Knowing that the whaler had already been condemned, I expected any moment to see the boat go to pieces - I suggest to the 'new chum stunter" to run before the wind to OLESI, and walk home overland - wouldn't hear of it, he was going to take the blankey boat to Lousia even if the bottom dropped out of her, certainly the boat had to be got back to the station somehow. Next thing was to make for a channel through the reef - which being on a lee shore did not appeal to me, though if we could make the channel we should be in the shelter of the heads. It was to no avail, not enough water, once more about and for the open sea. Smokeless, hungry, wet, funky and fed up, I commence to wonder whether I shall every get on Terra firma again. Most annoyed running close to the land, then have to go about and dash out to sea again. I've no nerve left for these seafaring stunts, particularly in a decrepit boat, native farmers for crew and officered by a man burning to show a new chum "the way we do things in Papua" though on this particular occassion circumstances were against us. Most of the handling of the boat was left to the hands of Taleuga, a most capable man, who thoroughly understood his job, and also knows these waters intimately, though W of course kept his eyes open, in case of emergency. to me this trip appeared all emergency. W sick, for which I was brutal enough to feel mighty glad, as on the next tack he decided to effect a landing somehow, this was eventually accomplished, and on a lee shore, but this landing was a most pretty piece of seamanship, Talegua brought her up
JULY
[Page 59]
to within a few yards of the reef, upon which the sea was thundering. beyond between us and the shore was about a quater of a mile of tumbling water, the boys hopped over the side, the water being about shoulder high huauled the boat a little nearer, then upon two oars, supported on the shoulders of two boys apice, we were carried to through the surf without so much as getting our feet wet, landed and so home. Taleuga brought the whaler safely to the end of the journey, by which time she was half full of water which gained more rapidly than the boys could bail. Strange to relate with all the six hours or more buffeting in a choppy cross sea, I did not feel the least sensation of mal-de-mer. Most unusual for me. As to-days events proved, what would have happened last night if we had endevoured to make the passage, I daren't think. As my junk saved me from a shark, so did it save us from thus. Meanwhile the Govt expects to travel a matter of fifty miles in an open boat and treacherous sea in a boat condemned as unseaworthy, moreover, in such seas as this, that get up so suddenly, I opine it is done, and often. Anyway fortunately for W the whaler is at last "done in", consequently the Govt will be compelled to provide him with a seaworthy craft, in any case, for these waters a motor boat is most essential. It is quite possible that the Govt may provide W with some terrible antedeluvian chunk of wood resuscitated from the debris of a shipyard. Meanwhile, I will take umpty-two solemn oaths, not to go afloat again. Have had all I want, thank you very much. No wonder my hair is growing again; this country is enough to raise anyones hair.
30th
Work in studio, going well. Hooray! looks as if the long delayed S.E. has set in. No rain for three days!
31st
At last feel inspired. To-day glorious, blue sky light clouds drifting across, and the water - what colours!!! It beggars description. On canvas, even the most catholic of critics would cavil. Nature just lays on the colour in chunks, there are no graduations. Each colour is distinctly separated like a mosaic. The Horizon a hard line of purple, then a streak of pure emerald, purples, sapphire, yellows, ultermarine, veridian, cobalts, no palette could give their richness and brilliance. A stained glass window might come near it, but would not be equal in brilliance. I felt emboldened to paint it, but after a few minutes my eyes ached, so had to abandon the task and will have to trust to an inadequate memory. Papua is guarding well, her treasure of colour, as jealously as she does her gold. This is a wonderful, grand and cruel country which withal possesses a fascination that allures and grips one. Many of the white people that live here, are always going home, but they never do go. They go South on leave, intending never to return, but they always do. I think it is Beatrice Grimshaw who likens Papua, to a very beautiful, but terribly cruel woman, who forever is displaying the allurement of her charms charms. Even I who come not seeking gold, but other treasures, have fallen a victim to her treachery.
JULY
[sketch titled "STINGAREE. Conventional treatment of a stingaree. From CARVING ON A BOIMA SINIKETA"]
[Page 60]
31st
inasmuch that nearly all my work up to date have been "duds". I hang on, hoping always for the brilliant colours which now it has eventuated is forbidden fruit - for me - withal the whaler being out of action, my range is limited to the Island of Kiriwina, where the colouring is not so brilliant, as the other Islands of this group.
August 1st
Splendid day in studio, working on a lagoon subject from mental notes, the result has been more successful than I anticipated, the canvas is a riot of colour and full of sunlight. It remains to be seen whether the colour will darken, perhaps if this dry spell holds, the colour will not deteriorate very much. A lot of the pigments am using almost pure, with the addition of flake white. Working in these materials, they may stand better. We are training a new house boy in domestique duties. W is not going to permit him to be something in calico, so he waits at the table in all his brown nakedness. The mother, unfortunately has developed a penchant for raiment, drapes herself in calicoes; certainly her own efforts have a more artistic result than the vivilas at the mission. I think of these latter, since they are compelled to hide their fine figures - were given the calico and left to their own devices, they would fashion some quite original and possibly attractive raiment. What I feel so remarkable is that the figures of these Islanders are so consistently well proportioned and both sexs carry themselves well, do not stomach or slouch. Take an equal number of any white nation, and strip them, the result would be appalling, about one in a hundred would possess anything like a decent physique. Another interesting point is that from what I can remember of European peasant folk, the females that [indecipherable] at agricultural pursuits, had terrible figures, bent, meagre to a degree. All the females here work in the gardens, but it nowise does it appear to affect their figure.
2nd
Complete! Lagoon canvas. Great excitement, ship sighted, anticipation of a mail - a "dud" ship only a local trader. Have nearly run out of tobacco and divers other neccessition articles, no boat expected out in the immediate future, thus will place us to some embarrasment. The Bosses busy all the week repairing our disreputable rags. I thought I'd brought ample raiment enough to last six months, there is not much of it left, have worn out two pairs of boots and equal number of shoes in four months, when I say worn out, that conveys a different meaning here, worn out means, when ones footwear actually drops off the the feet. In many respects this is a most expensive country to live in, apart from the extra cost of freight, and the Piracies of the Stores, the climate rots everything very rapidly. W computes the cost of his three house boys approx £ 60 per annum. Taitu which serves as a substitute for potatoes 14lb 3d = ½ stick Tabac. Fish 1d per lb aprox. Bananas aprox 1/- per 40. Cocoanuts (green) 1d each. Cocoanuts (ripe) 16 for 1/- eggs 1 ½ each lapi oysters aprox 30 for 6d. All imported commodities such as soap oil, canned meats etc, work out from aprox 30% and over, more than Sydney prices.
3rd
Most of day stretching canvas and general odd jobs. To-night beautiful clear purple sky, almost full moon, fresh breeze. Now the S.E. has set in, no swarms of pestilential insects, no mosquitoes and but few flies. King of the Trobriands to see W on state matters, the arrière penseé presumably to sponge tabac. Mrs L & two others call. Mail for South. George Meredith to R.L.S. "At your age do nothing for ambition, nothing for money, so will your production be good & choice, while you now go on amassing treasure for the time when a man may reasonably write for ambition, and will be too reasonable to do it".
4th
Work in studio, a difficult problem of reflection, refraction, and the water so clear that the cast shadow from a boat also is quite clearly seen on the bottom of lagoon. So far result of my experiment not very satisfacory, for a problem of this nature, mental notes are hopelessly inadequate, also the cast shadows of coral beneath the surface very difficult to handle. One of the boys made a straw hat, which he brought to-day, has made quite a good job of it, though the shape a little bit to feminine in character. I gave him a pair of canvas shoes, to copy. It will be interesting to see the result, this being the first shoes he will have attempted. Naturally he will make them of Palm leaf.
[Page 61]
W tore up a wedding group that was sent him. Bilula collected the remenants, stuck them together, the result now adorns his hut, thus is the barbarous practice of wedding groups introduced into the Trobriands. Certainly this is not a placid country, although colour fine, weather beautiful, the riot of wind during the last few days, is becoming somewhat trying. Whistling & hissing through the palms, making a sound not dissimilar to the beating of waves on a shore. The wind has routed most of the winged insects, but those that creep and crawl yet remain. Cannot move a thing without several insects scattering from their fancied seclusion, spiders, lizards, and divers other insects of strange and weird form. Mail has not left owing to heavy wind, our stores very low, we are reduced to smoking trade Tabac, appalling stuff, but better than nothing. A slight misunderstanding with W, which fortunately is cleared up, otherwise being at variance with one's host, with no possibility of getting away, would have been most embarrassing.
5th
Off in search of studies of the dances. order canoe; a decayed chunk of wood is brought, the old bus scarcely holding together; two of the boys tie up some of the loose ends of which there are many. It was a botch of a job at best, but no time to send for a respectable canoe. Take two boys to pole, and one as personal attendant. So away on decidedly choppy waters. Heavy S.E. blowing, get in stern soaked in few minutes, to shore, canoe to pick me up further down lagoon. Pass waterside village of Teavi, which to-day did not look beautiful; heavy wind blowing palms leaves in such manner, that they looked like giant star fish waving their tentacles to the sky. On the shore a strange coral formation, resembling in form, a pre-historic reptile, with head like a lizard. In the creek of OKUPUKOPU water placid, it being sheltered on either side, with tall mangrove, above eye level, rather pleasing aspect; tall trunks and heavy rich green foliage, but on ground level, the usual distorted roots squirming in the mud flats. Boys spot an alligator, devil a bit can I see of it. About a three mile journey up the tortous windings and twistings of this creek. We reach the head of creek, a short track brings us to the village of OKUPUKOPU, but no sign of dancing. There is no fixed hour for those events, at least seemingly so. One is compelled to hang about until such time as the natives feel disposed to commence their performance. All the information that can be elucidated, is that it will be sometime during the day. Settle myself in the shade of a boima, prepared to wait an indefined time. My boy tells me, there is a dance long next village. Pack up and way to the village of KAPULAPOLA, but here there appears nothing toward. In fact with the exception of a few grubby piccaninnies and one or two old men this village appears deserted. "Igau, they make dance Taubada" my boy remarks. Settle myself on the platform of a boima, whatime the piccaninnies gather round as is their want; the old men open up with their everlasting Tabac taubada. One old boy gets a conch shell and blows upon it, a hell of a noise. The spectacle of the old boy blowing, made me laugh whereupon he renewed his efforts, concluding that I was enjoying the infernal riot, blew all the harder, his breath exhausted, he looked at me with much pride, and like all itinerant musicians expected the usual coin to be thrown, which in this case was a piece of tabac. Fill in time making studies. A vivila commences sweeping up the centre of the village. She then brings out some mats, three of which are placed in the center, the remainder round the sides, these latter presumably for the audience. These operations completed, the vivila vanishes. Nathless, the curtain will "ring up" shortly. Various semi decorated heads peer forth from the dim recesses of huts, no doubt they are looking to see if any of the audience have arrived. I am there what more do they want. A vivila in gorgeous array of beads, feathers and paint, dashes across the open space and is swallowed up by the darkness of one of the huts. Piccaninnies commence to crowd up towards the centre of the village. From the tracks which lead into the village from three directions, natives commence begin to arrive in large and small parties. A crowd of mission vivila, their raiment though ugly, makes a splash of colour. All the people settle down on the mats in the auditorium. Of course they have with them
[sketch titled "TOIILU. King of The Trobriand Islands"]
[Page 62]
5th
their usual paraphanalia of travel, mois, baskets, lime gourd etc. One vivila carrying an umbrella on her shoulder. Strange to relate the said hideous article was in an extraordinary good state of preservation. Nearly all the audience is smoking. One or two will detache themselves from the crowd to fetch a piece of Kova (fire stick) from the communal fire. Piccanin heads are bobbing round every few moments, looking towards the direction from which the performers are expected. Not satisfied with their observations a few get up and run to the huts where the artists are bedecking themselves. The piccannis shortly come scampering back, followed shortly after by the performers, very charming was the appearance of the latter. Heads adorned with halos of white cockatoo feathers. Their bodies glistening with recently applied capor coconut oil and swathed in beads, their faces decorated in all manner of fantastic design. No footlights here - just one top batten - the Sun. Scenery and effects by Dame Nature. They sit down in center, unfortunately the song Dance is to be a song, I have described a song in July 28th. this was very similar, excepting that the vivilas were in full war paint, but their voices not quite so good as on the former occasions. What struck me as droll, but quite "comme il faut". When any of the audience passed in front of the singers, they did so in a stooping position. After the second song one of the vivilas in the audience, took some feathers out of the hair of the performers and stuck them in her own. There being a show in another village, some of the parties having sat through a few items departed. Before leaving, however, they presented the village with some tabac. A piccanini climbed a beetle nut tree a height of some forty feet, but he botched his decent, finishing up the last fifteen feet by some extraordinary manner, sticking out at right angles to the tree, gracefully gliding down, until he measured his length on the ground, presumably this was an unrehearsed "extra', all the audience roared, but the performers like true performers remained unperturbed at this absurd spectacle, continuing their chanting. This cycle of songs continues for about four or five hours, almost without a break, meanwhile the villages provide them with cooked food, beetle nut, coconuts etc, all of which brought to them, one piccanini came to its mother to be suckled, after which the infant was carried away by the father, and the mother proceeded with her chanting. Having made my studies threw some Tabac to the perfomers; so away to OKUPUKOPD a larger village, where was another song in full swing, amongst the singers was my model Kachkavina, bad tempered wench, directly she saw me, she made the Tabac sign, i.e. pointing to the mouth and throat. Knowing I couldn't haul her away to pose she was all smiles. Some of the vivila had cut up coloured advent leaflets, which made very effective streamers, also their pandamus leaves, which they hold in the hand, were very elaborate, most quaint, but difficult to describe. I called Kachkavina to me and gave her a piece of Tabac, for which she said "Tank you Taubada" very prettily. With crestfallen air, she made for her hut, I followed apparently she thought I had come to take my parrot away from her. She brought it out of the hut and made a gesture of despair, but oh! the smiles when I remarked "BOGIWAK (finish) [indecipherable], all same 'e belong you" much fuss did she make of the bird which later, poor little chap, was looking very shabby. It never seems to quite have recovered from its illness. In any case I should have let Kachkavina keep it. I want my mental picture of the two to remain unbroken, although my rendering of the subject was such a failure. I like to think that Kachkavina and the gorgeous plumed happy little bird are always together. It was a charming picture, things not for the brush. The brilliant plumed and bedecked
[Page 63]
vivilas, about forty of them, sitting there in the centre of the village the slim branches the beetlenut trees, the graceful craving palemo and sago thatched huts. The Natives and piccanises seated round, or grouped on the boimas. While some distance from the village I could yet hear this haunting chant. One came into my bundle of sticks (canoe) and away down the still waters of the creek. the riot of parrots in the mangrove. Occasionally passing a canoe, the occupants turning to inquire "wither bound" as is the custom in this country. Stop one canoe for a piece of KOVA (fire stick) en passant: canoes generally carry a small fire this is placed on the outrigger platform in a large clam shell: my boy tells me there is a dance at TOKWAUKWA, at which village I alight. All that is visable at first, is a number of exceptionally duty piccanis, and six men beating drums, long tube like arrangements, handle in center, and guana skin shethed over one end. Suddenly an apparition bounced into the ring. I say bounced for he did not appear to walk or run. His costume most weird. The whole of his cranium a mass of white cockatoo feathers which resembled a huge crysanthanum, a tall scarlet feather in the centre, his armulets hung with nature wealth and beads, he wore a vivilas rami stick with this and his armulets, cassawary plumes the ends dyed scarlet. These stuck out in the rear like the tail of a bird. The man himself of most solemn countenance. The six drummers struck up around which he gyrated finishing his dance with a whoop and standing on one leg. Three other man joined in, their attire a modification of this first man. The did a small dance together, but all the performers had an expression of "will it be roast beef or mutton chops for dinner tomorrow" or the native equivalent thereof. The whole show, a most tame affair. The villages going about their business, ignoring the dancers. Just the grubby piccanis and one or two stragglers looking on. Whatime these four men jumped round the six drummers like very fools. [indecipherable] brother, who is a "new chum" came along, his dog livened up things by chasing a great sow, which sent the welkim with its squealing. Thoroughly [indecipherable] with the whole outfit I accept an invitation to Rai Rai with them give the [indecipherable] dancers and drummers some Tabac, and so away. See the platform that is erected for the food of the spirits (Boloma) very crude affair just four pieces of timber about 20 feet high, with platform at sunset on the mainland of papua these platforms are very elaborately carved, It being too rough for canoe, home along the track by moonlight. Through two villages KAIBUTU & OLEWEOVA, it being late, all abed. The doors of the huts hermetically sealed with palm matting could one look inside, one would possibly find the sleeping occupants, with calico swathed round their heads. Exactly how they avoid asphyxiation it a wonder. No wonder they sleep heavily. They have a notion that when asleep they are as the dead. Small wonder.
AUGUST
[sketch titled Native House Trobiand Islands, Papua.]
[Page 64]
6TH
"Work in Studio, regret have to keep my colours locked up, the temptation seemingly has been too great for the natives. S.E. still very strong. If a boat from Samarai, does not come along soon, we shall be on native Rai Rai, getting almost accustomed to smoking Trad tabac.
7TH
Off on a patrol, weather just right, clear sky], a few light clouds drifting across, fresh S.E wind though when we lost it in the hollows, very hot indeed. Passed through too many villages to describe in detail although there is a great similarity in them all, the differ only in size and minor details. GUMILIBABA, the scene of my first futile efforts to paint in the open. WABUTIMA, the huts in this village larger and better constructed than usual, possessing an altogether more dignified appearance. I noted two cases of vermilion ejacdemic, one boy had painted both his lips with this pigment, hope he enjoyed the flavour. BADUAILAKA, very tall palms, one in particular easily ninty feet high, but only fourteen inches in diameter at the base, KULUA, OKAIBOBWA, KAGWAKU, in this village we were received by MOLIASI, the Chief, who presented us with a plate of bananas, Moliari, had a very
primative appearance; scarlet calico swathed round his head, old blue tunic, leather belt and scarlet calico rami. The Chief is about the cunningist old blighter on the Island, he is not of royal blood, but a commoner who has gained his position, by sheer force of character despite his cunning he is most liberal to the subjects under his sway, at the same time is something of a despot; making all his people work hard, with withal he encourages their industry. All the tracks on his section of the island, in splendid condition, quite level and well swept; a relief to walk upon after the jolting one gets on the other tracks. WAKAISA, MWADOIIA, KASANAI and OMARAKANA; this last is the Royal Borough or village, where TOU-ULA, the King resides. His reception of us, not regal, brought his presentation of four coconuts himself. His palace, a most unpretentious hut, not the largest in the village. He is altogether to mean to pay his subjects the price of a pig, to build him a house worthy of his position. Despite this mean poverty stricken aspect; quite a number of the islanders hold hum in great respect, if not awe. Though amongst the younger generation he is, if believe rather taboo. To-morrow I shall ask the old bird for the lime stick he promised me, not that I expect to secure it. the Govt rest house, here at omarakana, quite good, well ventilated and actually boasts windows, though, naturally, not glazed. The village fairly large, no huts more picturesque grouped than is generally the case. There is also here the Trobriand meterological house, that is an arrangement of four stones placed at the four corners of a rectangular space. It is here that TOWASI ULIKUNA, the witch doctor, makes the rain. he must have put in a lot of overtime these last four months and he will have to get busy again. The recent abnormal wet season killed most of the yam crops. Most of the Boimas we passed in the villages en route, were more than half empty, at this period of the year they would have been full to overflowing. The natives planted an emerging crop of taro which requires abundant water, now the fine weather has apparently set in
[sketch titled "SOME TABAC, TAUBADA."]
[Page 65]
it looks as if the crop will die off, which means that the population will be faced with a famine. The fine weather may be alright for artist people, but it will go hard with the natives nevertheless it is a relief to get some decent weath after the everlasting leaden skies. Omarakana, is one of the seven villages situated on the edge of a bowl of land some ten miles in diameter, a coral ridge forms a kind of lip to the circle. The ground in the bowl almost a dead level right up to its borders. At KABWAKU, was a very aged woman, grandmother of Moliasi, which latter must be nearly seventy years of age, consequently this old dame must be nearly one hundred and fifteen years of age. Her skin was hanging in great wrinkles and creases, but the appears to have retained full use of all her faculties. W pasture job today - counting the coconut palms which border the tracks on route, about the dullest most impossible job I could imagine. He also held court, one man brought up for breaking the legs and smashing the head of an old man, fortunately the damage was not fatal. This boy will get six months hard for his escapade. There is also a land dispute between the King & Miliasi. The Bossess provided us with table napery, a [indecipherable] unheard of and quite unnecessary luxury, when on parting, nevertheless it appealed to me to be seated at a [indecipherable] table, in lieu of the usual rough and ready arrangements. seemingly I'm not particularly partial to "roughing it" I detest social conventions, but possess a penchant for many of the frillings that convention dictates. To-night beautiful, full moon, soft breezes, which gently sway the tall palms, their shadows making a lacework pattern on the ground the pale warm reds & yellows of the huts, a foil to the deep rich purple black velvety shadows - very tried; last night working until midnight and a fifteen mile tramp today, although we did not make the journey in unseemly haste but maintained a dignified pace with divers halts at the villages whist W made his inspection of the huts. I noted in all the villages, much flourishing of brooms and collecting of debris. An audience with the King, which latter & his sattelites squatted round in the moonlight, W and self on deck chairs. W attempts the difficult task of endeavouring to find out information with regard to natives customs, difficult insomuch as the people will not give direct answers, but say whatever they imagine will please us. I put the question about the promised lime spoon, the King replies, that owing to the poor results of this last KULA business (exchange of native wealth) which latter consists mainly of belts, stone tomahawk heads, shell armultes etc) he will be unable to present me with a lime spoon. I might remark that the article in question is of practically no value. I've met my Waterloo alright, in this decayed lump of unregal Majesty. Being tied we dismissed the King and so to bed.
8th
Morning time to villages of WAKAILUA, OBOADA, KAULAGUA, TILAKAIWA, KAPAKUPULA. nothing of particular interest. To the coast, one very steep coral ridge. the effect when upon the summit rather good, the narrow rugged moss covered coral track, dipping into declivities, right ahead tall mangrove, the blue sea beyond shining through the intestices of the branches, a mosaic of sapphire, the arrangement suggesting a stained glass window. Scramble down to very steep incline, at its base a water hole of considerable depth, overhung with rock, it had a most forbidding appearance. W suggests bathing therein - no thanks - overhanging rocks always giving me the feeling they will fall and crush or worse still entomb. Moreover expect the water could have been icy, for no sun ever penetrates these pastures. To the beach rather good effort, the purple cast shadows of the palms flung across the beach and lagoon, great breakers booming on the reef. In the distant haze the island KAVATGARIA KITAVI on the right, a bluff headland thrust into the sea. Have a dip, pleasant sensation if feel water all over me, on patrol our ablutions now usually consist of a [indecipherable] in a small basin. To avoid the difficult & tedious climb up the ridge, return via the beach, nothing much of a track anyway, it being a scramble over boulders and coral, dead tree trunks, in fact it was almost a steeple chase. We had to wade round one headland, of course the depth of the water, just an inch or two higher than it was possible to roll ones pants - it always is.
AUGUST
[Page 66]
8th
This country seems to be the acme of physical discomfort, - giving the minimum results to one's efforts whatever they may be. The Rest house MTAUA, very pleasantly situated in a fairly large clearing a few yards from the village, a distinct advantage, inasmuch as in the villages there is usually a piccanni wailing, without numerous pigs rooting round, making walking rather unpleasant, pigs not being cleanly animals. VIVILAS at this village rather cheeky, generally the case in any village where there a mission school. Brown faces poke through the foliage at the edge of the clearing; when spotted the face disappears, and glimpse of flying samis much in evidence. They kept this game up for about half an hour, [indecipherable]
creeping up to peep at the Taubada, then dashing off helter skelter. Should it be a piccannin, oh the squeals, if it imagines its little brown legs cannot cannot get enough speed to place it at a safe distance from the Taubada. To the piccannis a strange white man is a very fearsome spectacle.
9th
An early start for Home, taking a circuitous route in order to check tracks on map, and count the number of coconut trees which border same. Through the villages of LILUTA, OBLULAGULA, KAITAGAVA & BLOWALA. At former village saw a much emaciated dog covered with sores, get W to order its destruction, once more at Omanakana. In one corner of the village, under the cool shade of Banana and Paw Paw trees, was the village dye-works and vivlas at work on samis in various stages of manufacture. The dye-works consisted on an earthen bowl supported by four stones, under which a fire. In the past was mangrove bark and water, which when brought to the boil, makes the dye, when it is considered the dye is sufficiently deep in colour, the portion of sami to be dyed, is placed therein. The making of a sami is quite a lengthy undertaking, and make take anything from one to three months in the process. Banana ∧ pamdamas leaves form the bulk of the materials used. The Banana leaf is taken in its green state and carefully scraped with the sharp edge of a shell until the leaf has been reduced to the finess and texture of silk; it is then placed in the sun, to dry. When thoroughly dry, it is then split into fine stripes, tied into small bundles and dyed in a solution of Mangrove bark, with the addition of a small quantity of lime. This produces a rich red almost terra-cotta in colour. The pandamus leaf goes through the same process, with the exception that it is not scraped so finely, or dyed. This after it has been dyed, is cut into small rectangular and divers other shapes; but the rectangular, which forms a border of tippets round the top of the sami is the most favoured. Although in general appearance the samis are similar; in detail there is considerable variety; also they vary as to length. The dancing rami being worn almost to the knee but the shorter style more commonly worn in these Islands is infinitely more "chic" in appearance. The longer styles hav possessing too great a semblance to dried grass, and to not swing so gratefully when the wearer is moving. Besides the red dye mentioned, there is also a dark rich brown, yellow, and red almost vermilion. All three colours are utilised; but an upper layer of red, the lower a natural dried grass tone appears to be the most fashionable. One to three months appears overlong for a seemingly, so simple process, but when it is considered, the quantity of leaves used in the fashioning of one of these sami, and the care that is taken in the sowing together, it is easily understood how the time is spent. Even as the skirts of their white sisters, so is there a particular manner in which the sami should set to the figure. When a vivila stands up after being seated, she will carefully pull and pat the sami into position in order that it should be "just so". To the mere male there appears to be precious little to get out of shape. Presumably the trained eye of a vivila would soon discern deficiencies. The average life of a sami is about one year, but this not worn the whole period. For ordinary workday purpose a simple sami of plain pattern is worn. Just about this time of the year, it is the custom of the unmarried vivilas of one village to make up a party and visit the neighbouring village. Where they line up in the centre space of the village, and the TAU (boys) of the village visited will remain secreted, where the vivilas cannot see them, from which vantage point each boy will select the vivila which most
THE FASHIONING OF A DOBA.
[Page 67]
appeals to him. They will then emerge from their fortress and place a flower or amulet on their particular vivila by which token the vivila becomes the boy's "amarsta" for the night - ring down the curtain please - Possibly the next day the vivilas of the village visited will return the compliment and visit their neighbouring village. Exactly what occurs when two boys choose the same vivila, I [indecipherable] not, presumably there is a brandishing of spears and tomahawks. The other villages we passed through were. KASANUM, WAKAILUA, OBOADA, WAGALUMA, OKAIKODA, KULUA, IALAKA, LUIA, WABUTIMA, MULUSAIDA, OIADIA. Prior to reaching this last village; through a track which turned and twisted to such an extent, that by the end of half an hour, I felt all the sensations of becoming thoroughly "binged" or something of the feelings a kitten must experience when it has been chasing its own tail for sometime. I was compelled to keep my eyes fixed on the ground, to do otherwise was to court disaster; there being scarcely two feet of level ground the whole way, many were the bumps and numerous the curses, as I kept stubbing my feet or knocking my shins against this infermal coral; which littered the path. I doubt me wether on the Gallipoli peninsula we experienced anything quite so impossible as these coral tracks. As I write I can a through the window I can see the full moon moving from behind a pattern of palm trees, the waters of the lagoon, shimmering like beaten silver from between their slender trunks. The whole setting is a design in purple and silver.
10th
While at work in studio am disturbed by the squealing of kittens, find the cat has commenced to rear another family, utilising some canvas in the studio for that purpose. Very tired after yesterday walk, unquestionably travelling in this country most fatiguing, even if journey is made in easy stages. An earth tremor, at least am so informed think I noticed nothing untoward, [indecipherable] water supply, attached to house, running short , will have to be on rations until the next rains. Boy brought one, of a pair of shoes (he is making for me) to see if I was satisfied with the results of his efforts. Said he had experienced great difficulty, and appeared much worried gave him a piece of tabac to put heart into him. Certainly he made quite a good job of it, but doubt me, they will wear well, the palm leaf like [indecipherable] strong enough. Nevertheless it is interesting as [indecipherable] the first time shoe making has been attempted on these islands.
11th
Good day in studio. At last have a grip on my subjects though it has taken me four months hard study so to do, my one difficulty is however, that I cannot carry the works as far as I should wish without painting direct from life. There appears no possibility of doing this without serious injury to my sight, consequently am almost completely dependent upon memory and a few rough pencil notes. Another almost even greater difficulty is that [indecipherable] to the strength of light on the canvass to colours which may appear brilliant and correct in value 'out in the open when seen in the studio the colour is very heavy and looks almost muddy. I have tried several methods of shading the canvas, but without success.
12th
Work in Studio. "Fed up". The following extracts from Papuan mythology are quite entertaining. The Origin of Cannibalism. Aeons ago the Papuans were beset by a giant, whom travelled through the country devouring all he could lay hands upon. Until in time the population had become so decimated, that it was threatened with complete extinction. The survivors assembled to devise some means of exterminating this rapacious giant. Several efforts were made which resulted in still further reducing their numbers, at last in sheer desperation, the few remaining Papuans, contrived a trap and kill this enemy. After the giant was dead, an old woman noticed a dog eating one of the dead mans fingers. Struck with the idea, she essayed to follow the dog's example, cut off a piece of the giant tasted it, and finding it was food, she informed the others which latter immediately set to and consumed their late antagonist. According to the particular portion of the giant consumed so was the consumer endowed with extra thought in that particular part of his anatomy. Thus those who ate of the heart became brave, those whom partook of the arm, acquired extra strength in that limb.
MYTHOLOGY
[Sketch appearing on this page titled "SINA-BOINA, TAUBADA!" very good, master.]
[Page 68]
12th
those who devoured the legs became great walkers, those who ate of the liver became cowards. To this organ is attributed the distinguishing characteristics of the various Papuan tribes. HOW FISH came into Trobriand waters ?once upon a time all the fish grew upon a great tree, so tall was this tree, that its top branches brushed the sky. As fish were required so were they cut off the branches. came a man with an abnormal appetite, having devoured all the fish off the lower branches, his hunger still unappeased and unable to get at the remaining fish, he cut down the tree, which therefore fell into the sea, its apex falling in to Trobiands waters, the fish remaining being on the top branches they swam off. Ever since this episode fish have been plentiful around the Trobriand Islands. There are other myths, but unfortunately I did not make notes at the time they were related to me.
13th
A Sodden, leaden day, in the afternoon almost too dark to work. I inquire of a mission teacher of six years experience, what was the ultimate aim in educating the natives? I received the illuminating reply, that she didn't know!! Oddo Fish!! six years occupied upon and undertaking, without any understanding of the reason thereof!!!! and this is the class of person that is let loose upon the natives. One does not expect to have university graduates to demonstrate the rudiments of the three R.s but one does expect the teachers to be people possessed of average intelligence. I feel that educating in so far as, this group of Islands is concerned is wrong, absolutely wrong. Firstly Geographically the Trobriands are of no importance. Topographically they are such, that the land available for cultivation is only just sufficient to meet the immediate requirements of the population. Consequently the possibilities of plantations producing sufficient copra to enable its 9,000 inhabitants to live upon European limes seems out of the question. Certainly there is fishing for biche-de-mer, a fairly valuable product also pearling, but even this would be insufficient even developed to its utmost limits. At the present moment these natives lead fairly happy & contented lives; living upon the products of their gardens and a little trading, which is all sufficient to fulful their simple requirements. They are an industrious people and never at any time have they [indecipherable] practised cannibalism or as far as I know any other devilments. They possess some few evil traits perhaps - but what nation does not. Their moral code does not appeal to the European [indecipherable] but then they are a different race living in a different land under dissimilar condition, moreover their seeming lack of morals does not appear to react upon them as does it with the European. Efforts are being made to educate these people up to a European standard, which means that eventually they will have to abandon their simple mode of life, bringing in its train, the necessity for raiment and divers other commodities; which can only be purchased with money, and from
[This page includes a sketch titled "DECORATED BOIMA, SINAKETA. Trobiand Islds.]
[Page 69]
[Drawing titled CONVENTIONAL TREATMENT OF AN EGRET, FROM PORTION OF PROW OF A CANOE]
what sources is the money to be obtained? However hard those people might work, they could never obtain sufficient wealth to live upon even the simplest European standards. Therefore to what end all this education business? Where is it to lead? So far as the elementary conditions of living are concerned, cleanliness, sanitation, [indecipherable] and becoming law abiding citizens the Govt is supervising this. To what and all this Missiongiving? Giving to the native a smattering of education which unfits them for village life, and qualifies them for no other occupation, - even were there such - I have been told that vivilas who have been taught at the Mission and returned to their homes, have proven themselves quite unfitted to follow their former domestic and agricultural occupations. So much so, that those of them who married after a few months the husbands divorced their wives as utterly useless. The narrator like most of the whites, may have said this from prejudice, nevertheless judging by the methods taught at the Mission, and the ignorant type of teacher, I have so far come in contact with, I think there is a certain element of truth in their statement. One of the missioners showed me, with a great air of pride, some doylies a mission vivila had made. Most useful knowledge for a vivila to take back to a village. What did the fool Missioners imagine a vivila could do with doylies, wrap them round [indecipherable] to protect them from frostbite, or [indecipherable] It is not difficult to foresee what will be the result of this education. It will produce a nation of effete people who will attire themselves in the fitting cast of raiment of Europeans. The signs of this consummation are already evident. This then is education from the utilitarian viewpoint Spiritually I strongly suspect they will revert to their own gods, anyway the fact remains that when a Christian native is dying, he still makes his offering to the Spirits of Tuma. It seems almost a heresy to suggest that people should be allowed to remain in a state of ignorance - but unless we can offer them something better than they already possess, why then, "Where ignorance is bliss etc." fully meets the present case. But to create in the native breast a desire for things which they can never possess, is unpardonable. One might make the retort, But if they are educated they cannot be exploited" In any case the govt sees to it, that they are fairly treated. It might possibly also be suggested that, if they understood money values they could make a better deal for their labours - What is more probable, is that their unbalanced minds understanding nothing of Industrial Economies would place their labour at such a premium, as to kill their already too small market. We already have a good example of this in Europe and Australia at the present moment. Amongst a Nation whom for centuries have lived in an environment, and especially within the last fifty years, given them an opportunity of understanding; how much more so would be the case with a peoples whom less than thirty years ago were yet in their Stone Age, and withal are a coloured race. No - hands off - leave them to their gardens and villages; at least they are tilling their lands and building their houses, which is more than can be said of the white people. These remarks are mainly applicable to the Trobriands. When we deal with
AUGUST
[Page 70]
13th
the mainland of Papua, that is quite another question. At Fergusson, Goodenough and Normby Islands which are cannibal countries, some forty miles distant and quite visable on clear days. Here the Mission seemingly is doing some good work. One custom of the Fergussion Islanders is that when a mother dies and her infant is of tender age, it is buried with the Mother. Whenever possible the Mission is rescuing these unfortunate infants, which is a most laudable and praiseworthy work, and is of practical value. To use a similie, by the time this journal is completed it will resemble a patchwork quilt, with Papua as the thread which holds it together.
14th
A "wash out" just wasted the day, in good forcing ideas for pictures they must come naturally. A vivila called in at the studio, uninvited, I promptly made her sit. She soon got tired of this and cleared out. Am suffering from mental stagnation result I suppose of keeping too close to my work. No one visited, the one or two whites the paucity of conversational matter too limited. It does not interest me whether the Mission had buns or bread & butter for tea or not. Shall be glad when next mail arrives, seven weeks since the last one. Weather good, light showers.
15th
W off on patrol. Patrols are quite one of the most important duties of a Resident Magistrate; which latter is responsible for the health, welfare and administration of the natives under his control. He practically has to become the Big Father to these simple people; not an easy job, for although in many respects the Natives resemble children & they are not, is a factor that cannot be ignored; consequently the administration of the Papuans is a work requiring considerable discretion, tact, and above all an enormous fund of patience, for notwithstanding their naivete these Papuans are a very subtle race. To prosecute a Patrol successfully, is a by no means simple matter, inasmuch it is then that the R.M. Surveys the whole of the native life and a general inspection of everything appertaining thereto is made. Their dwellings are examined, those in a dilapidated condition demolished and fresh huts erected. Sanitation is arranged and a careful medical inspection is made. Not infrequently it may be necessary to administer medicine to the whole population of a village. The chief difficulty with regard to this medical treatment; is to persuade the Native to have sufficient confidence in "Dim
Dim" (White man's) medicine; they being still greatly attached to their witch doctors, which later naturally resent being supplanted by the White-men: consequently when the latter's treatment proves efficacious; the witch doctors will attribute the cure to other causes. There is an equal difficulty with the management of legal matters; and although the natives adhere to the law as laid down by the Govt" they also possess their own private code and customs which they practice whenever possible without causing friction with the government. Amongst other duties is the collection of Taxes and taking the census. Nevertheless the former does not appeal to them at all; although the money is utilised in their own interests, it is difficult for them to grasp this fact; regarding the money they have paid, as a total loss. Not realising the benefit of having a Government which looks after them in many respects; amongst others, acting as a buffer between them and the White traders; seeing to it that they are fairly treated by the latter, guarding them from being exploited, protecting them from maltreatment. An officer on Patrol has also to look into the conditions of Natives working on Plantations, inspecting their living quarters, the quantity and quality of their rations, and listen to any complaints either from employee or employer. The Court House is quite a simple affair when the R.M. is on Circuit. Generally a Boima or the shadiest corner of a village is selected. = The inhabitants having gathered round,
AUGUST
[Page 71]
the Court is then considered open. Perchance some few vivilas may straggle in a little late; scant as is their raiment and though simple their toilet, true to their sex they must titivate before appearing in public; particularly is this the case if a census is being taken. When it is necessary for them to appear before the R.M. whatime the eyes of the whole village are upon them. It is very amusing to watch their demeanour when they are called upon; there is much raillery amongst themselves, those who are shy being pushed forward by their bolder companions. As each one comes into the cold glare of the public eye, there is much giggling on the part of those who have yet to face the ordeal: suggesting very much schoolgirls] appearing at a parochial concert. Some are shy, others covering their confusion by being silly bold, not a few are coy, all are nervous. Although I getting fairly good results working in the studio from mental notes, I still feel dissatisfied being unable to work direct from life, having at least acquired a method of handling palms and some knowledge of the colouring of the crayons, I rather feel that my works are becoming mere trickery of the "pot-boils", the brilliant colouring requires very careful watching or I shall fall into the reprehensible habit of making skies and water in all my canvas too similar. As a matter of actual practice, so far I have not seen the same effect twice and the sky, not quite the same blue two days in succession, such as we are accustomed to do in Australia. As a matter of composition I have not yet discovered a subject that I have been able to depict exactly as seen. To successfully place the subject on canvas I have always found it necessary to make some alteration; a difficulty I seldom experienced when painting in England and elsewhere. Unquestionably this is a most difficult country for an artist. This remark is not actuated from my own inability to - as yet - overcome many of these difficulties, but mainly, that in the first instance I imagined that subject matter would be thrown at me. I expected that all I had to do would be to set down my easel and just paint what was in front of me. As a matter of actual practice, the reverse has been the case. I've had to think out my composition and then collect the necessary studies. I anticipated that by the end of two months I should completed at least four 24" x 20" canvass, in exactly double that time, I've hardly completed two!! This is of course, apart from a considerable amount of data, which should be of some value later when 16.000 miles separating me from the waving palms and brilliant lagoons of these South Sea Islands. which a kindly fortune and a work excellent friend has given me the opportunity of seeing. Last night rain resumed its crashing on the roof, following by the usual chasing round to find a dry spot for my bed. To-day very boisterous, heavy leaden sky. Fairly good day in studio, but nearly always feel too jaded t get in any vivila brushwork. This is one of the penalties of living in Papua, even the strongest men suffer from its enervation influence. In fact the people on the island wonder how the devil I manage to keep going such long hours, seven days a week, once I feel that I can no longer maintain the pace, it's time I slipped my anchor "Boy brought only the completed pair of shoes which looked most weird, they will serve as bedroom slippers but considering that they will wear for but a little while, they were not cheap 2/6 i.e. five sticks Tabac. My wardrobe in a most pathetic condition sole of my boots tied on with string, most of my shirts a mass of patches, my one and only hat a hopeless wreck, the seat of one pair of pants no longer respectable, have had to borrow a pair. In fact shall be fortunate if I arrive in Sydney completely clad. Find that the life of an average pair of boots is approx. six weeks to two months - at the outside. As for shoes, a day on the tracks would do them in. one police boy recently enrolled commenced to display his authority
A PATROL. Aug 15
[Translater's note - contains a sketch titled "CONVENTIONAL TREATMENT OF FISH. FROM DECORATIONS ON A BOIMA. SINAKETA. TROB' ISL."
[Page 72]
15th August
by handcuffing a vivila with whom he was enamoured, but she would have none of him and brought the case to Court. I think this particular boy will find himself in goal. he altogether too high handed.
16th
W & the Bossess away. am once again "Blokum-Tenens" weather beautiful clear blue sky. Work in studio find an eight inch centipede wriggling on the end of my mal stick whether it was there when I picked the stick up, or had crawled on to it off the easel, I do not know, anyway when I stood away from the easel there it was. Shouldn't be surprised to find a birds nest on the back of the canvas or a snake amongst the paint tubes. Beastly headache, not that there is anything unique or original in this except that in Papua if one is suffering from any petty ailment or sneezes or yawns, one immediately imagines that one is sickening for some malignant tropical disease, likening any piffling scratch or pimple has to receive immediate attention, lest it develops into something more serious get rather tired of this absurd coddling, nevertheless one is compelled to do it - if one is wise.
17
Work in open result much better, light not too strong, new house boy too much interested in mechanics, while examining clock which has suddenly got out of order, note small boy looking on with a rather guilty expression. Do not think I should care to live in this country, despite its fascinations, I feel that the life is too narrow and ones social circle too limited, I miss the exchange of ideas that one gets in a professional circle. Copra, the Mission, and ones neighbours becoming a little tedious, shall be glad when the mail arrives, or something equally exciting occurs to break the monotony consider shall I ever get over the habit of wishing to be on the opposite bank" not the remotest ideas what the outside world is doing have seen a newspaper since last March, when we do receive any by the time I've a moment to read, they have usually been distributed to the other white residents, which through them percolate to the natives who value them highly for the purpose of making cigarettes.
18th
This morning Native was busy weaving tapesteries, that is, the rain descending in almost straight lines cutting up the landscape giving the effect of a [indecipherable] the palms, leaves all blown at exactly the same angle greatly added to the effect illusion. Work in studio but very stodgy. All day the sky had been sullen, Just about sundown, the sun burst through the heavy clouds in a dazzling flame of orange and crimson, touching everything with points of light. It was all over in about five minutes, the effect was much like an explosion. But the after effects were most extraordinary. The sky appear as though smeared with the scrapings of a dirty palette. Upon this [indecipherable] was a path of pure deep purple, and another of brilliant rose and gold. These two patches of colour appeared to have no connection with the rest of the sky, which was a muddy grey. It look as if some artist had dabbed it on the sky for sheer devilment. For painting in this country one has to start off with a completely new set of ideas. Certainly nature indulges in some most surprising tricks, when painting, one feels you never know quite where you are. Many of the theories long practised when painting in Europe seems of small avail here. There seemingly appears no rhyme or reason, the manner in which Nature [indecipherable] colour about. When I return to Europe I shall feel that almost anything on canvas is legitimate, whether or no I shall have sufficient courage to try it, is another matter. I think on the whole it is very healthy to have ones theories and practices jolted up in this manner that Great Master, Turner, used to do pretty much what he liked on this canvas, but Nature in this part of the world leaves him quite cold. This lagoon is another jolt to ones preconceived ideas of a lagoon. From base to head it is about twenty six or more miles, in width over ten miles. On the East at its base, mangrove swamps and creeks, a shallow water channel about half a mile wide separates the island of Bomapau, which latter is about six miles long and four miles wide. Beyond to the south
[Page 73]
the land of the opposite side of this horseshoe curve is just visable, making strips of purple, vanishing away to a few dots, which latter are the top of the trees on Muwo island the land itself being so low laying, that it is hidden by the horizon. Under certain conditions a little further to the right, the awesome mountains on Fergusson Island, are visable they are some fifty miles distant from here, still further to the right. the Goodenough Island, then is about sixty miles. At low water this lagoon is cut up, with sandbanks, mud flats and deep water channels, and is usually dotted with native canoes. At high water on really fine days, the channels are a rich cobalt grey, the shallows, yellows and purples. The effect is very rich across the head of the lagoon the horizon is stashed with a line of rich vivid green. What has the effect of completely severing the sky from the water. It gives one the idea that Nature is saying: "Oh you artist people, with your theories of what is and is not correct. The values of colours on the horizon are never as so brilliant or strong as in the foreground', oh aren't they? Just see what I can do, what about this? - slash - and this! - slash - and this "-slash, slash! and she just picks up indecipherable] colours in chunks and throws them a matter of fifty miles or so, until you wonder where the hell you are, which is exactly how I feel after painting here for a matter of six months. There are trees, of course, when nature is more subtle in her treatment, in fact there has been overmuch of this during the last five months, hence my continual disgust and disappointment that she should affect European colouring, but not so well done as they do it there, withal, it appeared all wrong for this part of the world. It looked about as right as a naked savage in full war paint would seem, walking down a London thoroughfare in mid-winter.
19th
Make further effort to paint in the open, results fairly good. While at work in studio, Police boy bring in a native with a hideous gash in the side of his head, am asked to inspect same, which I reluctantly do. [indecipherable] Balls, tell Pilula to stitch up wound. It was the result of some quarrel over a vivila, a not infrequent occurance during the season of the Millmila, when passion runs high. To Gusauvita to L. the words of Grimshaw and [indecipherable] discussed. The White Population of Papua, very critical of any subjects written concerning Papua but they do not possess sufficient perpescuity to make allowances for the licence necessary when writing for publication, consequently any work other than those dealing scientifically with this country, in their eyes, are Taboo. I have poured much vituperation upon the heads of Mission for so hideously robing their vivilas. But the traders are equally guilty in this respect, and are equally lacking in imagination. They say that some sort of raiment is necessary for vivilas that are about the house, whether or no I should prefer almost rude females sitting about my domicile, I have not been in a position to judge. Return home about midnight stumbling home along the track by the dim light of a hurricane lamp most fatiguing effect rather weird. The light casting upon the [indecipherable] grotesque shadows of myself. It looked like some enormous giant stalking along. Don't suppose the inhabitants of the villages I passed though were overjoyed with my nocturnal peregrinations. I set all the dogs howling who in their turn roused up the thousands of feathered denizens of the trees, this sudden riot in the depth of the night was appalling.
20th
Work in studio, weather fine, though slight showers, rather annoying, as it plays the devil with my materials. Can't think
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20th
how this newly married couple can stand having a third person about the place. Anyway very good of them to put up with me, particularly as my habits must be quite foreign to one accustomed to the narrow existence of a missioner. The present plague is cockroaches, which seems to drop out of most things one pick up. Fortunately they are not the [indecipherable] loathsome black domestic pests, but are a pale yellow in colour nevertheless should prefer their absence. To a weary sleeper they might be fairly dangerous. They frequently attack the Natives.
21st
Alas! the SE has blown itself out last night awful, Mosquitos have commenced their raids, little sleep, result dud day in studio. Today atmosphere very heavy. Curious effect at sundown great skews of light across sky suggestion of a cubist painting, colouring hard almost crude. The natives are just as subject to Malaria and the whites, which strikes me as rather strange. The months slip by still I don't seem to be able to get ahead with my work, was to have camped by the lagoon at Wawela where colour is very fine. Owing to cessation of wind, the mosquitos will make this impossible To Kavoletia to make a few studies, one Bruchea in bathing suit and no hat, to any question as to sunshine he replied, "C'est habitude." One that I shall not essay.
22nd
Commence new canvas, rather good subject, but held up by the weather in fact am in a dilemma, if I wait until [indecipherable] the lagoon is sufficiently smooth for the studies I require I stand a good chance of being chewed up by Mosquitos followed by Malaria. If I make studies while the breeze holds lagoon will be almost too rough to obtain what I require. It been almost always the same right through the piece, the climatic conditions have been such as to almost to preclude my obtaining studies. Main topic of conversation "When will mail arrive? Just a chance she may have gone to pieces, in fact at the outset some of the boys refused to sail in her because she made so much water. Since having become more accustomed to the native physiognomy, although they wear only the raiment with which nature adorned them at birth, there is as [indecipherable] great a contrast between the stamp of the rich men and the commoner as there is between a [indecipherable] and a man who is tailored in Savill Row. Except that some of the rich men wear belts, [indecipherable] naught to differentiate the blue Blood from the commoners, but deportement, There we have mankind in its most primitive state, proving more than ever the chimera of the Equality of Man. No unions here, if a man does not dig his garden he staves; if he builds not his house he is without shelter, so you Red Flaggers what about it? No written matter will last longer than two years in this country unless receiving constant attention, so what the insects leave immodestly, the climate finishes off. [indecipherable] it is Ashes to Ashes, Dust to Dust, Except suchas the white man take out of the country, seemingly nothing will remain to mark the history of Papua down the ages.
23rd
Boy to sit, quite a good youngster, sat very well, work in open colour fairly good, but not particularly interested in subject Palms trees troublesome to manage, feel that water colour would be better medium oils seem a bit too heavy for the treatment of these feathering leaves, in fact I find that pen & ink express them better than oils, and am not quite so sure that water-colours would be better for the portrayal of the somewhat hard colouring of the lagoons. Actually the colours stand out in hard brilliant streaks, very difficult to make convincing on canvas, there is just sufficient quality in water colours The quality peculiar to water-colours, is just sufficient to give the brilliance of effect, without screaming at you, as do oils. Though so dazzling brilliant, so strong, nay almost crude, is the colouring that the most brilliant pigments on the palette look drab in comparison. In fact stained glass would more adquately express
[Page 75]
the brilliance and translucency of the colouring. By constant practice and considerable experiment, it might be possible to get somewhat near, but I still feel, that [indecipherable] although it might carry to those who know not this country, once having seen these dazzling effects, there will always remain be that feeling of dissatisfaction when seen on canvas. So obtain that quality which is the particular charm of the shallower water of the lagoon, would necessitate almost meticulous brush work, certainly it is subject matter unsuitable for breath of treatment. Unquestionably treated in a broad [indecipherable] some quite effective results could be achieved, but in this case other climes would be more adaptable. More so in fact than Papua, which is about the most exacting, most devilish country in the world for the artist; though men of other professions and trades would possibly make the same remark. Being as far as I am cognisant, the first artist to attempt the portrayal of this country, I feel more or less like an explorer "blazing the trail". Many are the pitfalls I have discovered, like the nature of the country itself, my pathway has been rugged and uphill all the way. Despite the tremendous assistance which W has kindly given me, without which it would well night have been impossible to have got anywhere at all. Mighty have been my abysmal falls. Seldom, if ever have I reached any sort of eminence, from which I could view my direction. I feel as it for the last five months, I have been travelling through a valley of pin point coral, on either side, steep almost inaccessible mountains, heavily timbered making it impossible to see any distance ahead. Whereas the Explorer has left some sort of trail, where others may follow, I leave nothing. Some knowledge I have gained which I think at a later date will be of some value, but have in nowise realised my anticipations. Mayhap I am expecting too much of myself. Meanwhile unless the mail boat arrives fairly soon we shall be without light. At present we are reduced to one lamp, our oil has run so low.
24th
Studies at MOLUSAIDA village. Try turtle eggs; think they must be an acquired taste for they like me not. saida nuts quite good. Couple of stick insects in studio, about eight inches long. Most amusing to see a piece of dead twig, suddenly move along. If an enemy is near, they close up their legs, thus completing the exact replica of a twig. Weather good, though close, riot of rain last night
25
Heavy squalls all night, result no sleep. Good day in studio, despite the depressing weather. My time here "close up finish", it does not seem advisable to remain longer, for many reasons. The SE Season - what there was of it - has broken and it will be well nigh impossible to work for the next few months, I know if I remained I should feel emboldened to attempt it, as serious risk to my health. There is much I have left undone, but it is slow work awaiting suitable weather conditions. I feel awful heartache at having to leave this Fascinating, elusive cruel country. Withal it is doubtful if I shall for some years see that splendid fellow W, since these shores are "hull down" our paths lay in opposite directions. No man could have done more for me than has he. during the last six months, he has given me every possible
AUGUST
[included on this page is a sketch titled "MALE FIGURE. This is quite a unique treatment of the figure, and is the only one I have seen. The usual manner being as in the previous illustration."]
[Page 76]
25th
assistance, and would have hung his coat on the sun to reduce its strength had this been possible. Getting on for nine week since mail. Don't think I quite like having the gates of the world closed in this manner, particularly as I find is so necessary to keep my hand on its pulse. Exactly what was my preconceived idea of the nature of a savage, I do not recollect; certainly I expected to find specimens of genus homo of a totally different calibre to the white man. After six months fairly close observation, I find they are just very ordinary humans, with many traits similar to the white man. In some respects vastly superior to large masses of Europeans, that is the 20th Centy editions of the White races. In other respects they are inferior, it stands to reason that a people but yet in their Stone Age, or just emerging therefrom, would naturally be more elemental. We possess their loves and hates, joys and sorrows, they have their function dances, private visiting and such other social intercourse as do we. But there is one trait in their character that is immensely interesting and that is the do not connect sexual intercourse with child birth. There theory is that when a mother is enceinte, that the child has been given by the spirit Baloma, or reincarnating WAIWAI. It is very difficult and practically impossible to convince them of the actual causes of birth. The children are very precocious with regard to sex matters and common at the early age of from six to eight years, and the vivilas are free to do what they like, until they are married, when they may not must remain faithful to the one man. Sex freedom is as much part of their life as eating drinking and sleeping. What strikes me as rather remarkable, that it does not in any way appear to affect their physique as I have hitherto mentioned. The majority have remarkably fine figures, and there is no suggestion of demoralisation about them. I should [indecipherable] that they are unmoral not immoral. It remains for we white people to make them the latter. These foregoing remarks refer to the Trobriand Islander. In an island continent about six times the size of Great Britain, there are many tribes. Those on the mainland
[There is a rule which compels the woman to perform all manner of practices in order that her skin will be quite light after childbirth; she remains in the hut has to wear the SAIKEULO, she washes with hot water and frequently applies coconut cream to the skin. The degree of lightness thus achieved is remarkable
Concerning child-birth.]
[This page contains a sketch with the following notation -"This robe is called a SAIKEULO VIVILA IN MATERNITY CAP AND ROBE.]
[Page 77]
of Papua and the cannibal Islands are a much more precocious and wild peoples. In the Trobriands, Magic is widespread and is in many forms, but I believe the generality of magical ceremonies is not in the least spectacular. In fact unless so informed, one might be standing next to a witch-doctor performing his incantation and be unaware of anything out of the ordinary was in progress. Much credence is given to the witch-Doctors by the Natives, which latter have great confidence and faith in the Magicians powers. These witch-Doctors are more or less specialists. There is a garden Magician, Fish Magician, Rainmaker, wind specialist in fact seemingly there is a witch-doctor for everything. The Ceremony when the witch doctor places his spell over the fish or sea, is quite a secret affair, when no White man is permitted to be present. We happened to be crossing a lagoon in a canoe upon such an occassion, stood a good chance of being speared. Fortunately Pilula (one of our police boys) withal a "rich man" having I think considerable influence in high quarters - averted any trouble. We were quite unaware there was anything untoward, until at the end of the journey Pilula informed W of the occurance. Garden magic, is however quite a tame affair. I believe a white man would have little difficulty in obtaining permission to be present. Whilst the witch-Doctor (TOWSI) made his incantations. There is a whole series of garden magic of intricate and elaborate rites. Every garden activity must be preceded by a rite. There is the general inaugnation rite also for cutting down the scrub, burn off, planting weeding etc. The Magician orders rest periods, which have to be observed, and his work regulates the work of the Gardeners forcing all the villigers to execute certain labours simultaneously, not to lag behind or be too far in advance of the others. this latter almost suggests a Union Official. The Ceremony of the fish suggests very much, the Blessing of the Sea that is practised in European Countries.
26
Have a last struck the trail. Fine day in Studio, new canvas going well, but getting stuck for foreground detail, and seemingly at the moment, no opportunity of obtaining the necessary studies. Wish I had the wonderful memory that John Hassall possesses, he had but to look at a subject, but for a short while to have obtained all the necessary data for the portrayal of same. After all, apart from the artists [indecipherable] imagination and the necessary technical facility; Painting is mainly a question of memory, a training of the mental vision to the highest pitch. Considering how brief a space of time passes elapses between the moment
AUGUST
[Page 78]
of studying the model and placing of the brush on the canvas, it is astounding how much one can forget. What makes painting so difficult in this country is that the light and atmospheric conditions are so completely different to anything I have ever experienced, that when stuck for studies it does not leave much of any previous knowledge to fall back upon. That is of course, if the canvas is to be convincing; if the picture is to convey that peculiar quality, which is so characteristic of Papua.
27th
Picture still progressing favourably, think it will be a success, provided I don't
[indecipherable] it up with the figures. Although I have been here six months, I have not made a single painting of the lagoons from life, for some reason or other conditions have always prevented this. Most annoying, considering this was one of my reasons for venturing this climate. Charlie "breezed" in for Kai Kai. His is a most refreshing personality, always very witty; he possesses a very keen sense of humour, a great asset in this quarter of the world. Those people who are minus this trait, not only make a rough passage through life for themselves; but also make it very difficult for those people with whom they associate. L having despatched a pig; for the novice there is a fair amount of pork about; personally I do not feel it wise to partake thereof in this climate, so for the novice I do not belong to the pork eating "pigeons." This latter means totem of which there are five on these Islands, their emblems are, the scarlet parrot, green parrot, Torres Strait pigeon, Fish Hawke and White Cockatoo, all natives belong to one or other of these totems: one of the tribal customs is that they must not intermarry into the same totem, those who break this law I believe are ostracised. The burning question as to when will the mail arrive, will continue to niggle until such as time as it does. It will feel rather odd, when I return once more to those crowded cities, where one can be in receipts of their bills and summonses for breakfast each day. On these islands there are nine thousand inhabitants, it rather appals me when I think of returning to a place where in the same amount of acreage there are as many millions people, wonder what will be the finish of this terrible overcrowding of the cities, how will nature adjust this problem?
28th
Insomnia last two nights, result did not feel in good trim for work, didn't think as much of canvas to day result of feeling out of humour. Appalling being minus oil and our most economical and best light out of action. Boy brought another pair of grass sh[indecipherable], did not purchase them, they are not of much service except in this house, the soles not
AUGUST
[Page 79]
being strong enough, no mail, no [indecipherable] in or out of the village, everything very dull except health. Finding the strong light in daytime and bad light at night playing the devil with my sight.
29th
Bring my latest canvas to a successful finish. Two vivilas to "sit" were very good, but lacked the style of Kadikavorsa, this latter damsel certainly did suggest class. The little maid who sat today was very good tempered and patient. Managed to obtain a good study in Chalks, a happy medium for these subjects. Now that I know they become bored to quickly, it makes me nervous. The mail at last arrived, letters from London Art world expecting me to return with some wonderful stuff, particularly as I am the first artist to visit Papua professionally Here am I with my work but half completed about to pay my adieus to these shores, perchance for ever. Certainly I've obtained some interesting stuff I may be unduly prejudiced; knowing the many difficulties I have endured, the many mistakes made - but some eliminated: to a fresh eye the works may appear virile, I trust so. Considering that I have been going full out, an average of ten to twelve hours a day, seven days a week, it is surprising how very little I appear to have accomplished. Find the colour standing much better since cessation of wet, particularly on canvas. on the prepared sketch boards, the colour has a tendency to darken and go flat. The clear starlit nights, many an hour I spend wander through the dim avenue of palms, their slender trunks meeting in a canopy of lacework, suggesting the aisle of a great cathedral. The fresh breeze sighing through the trees slender leaves, whispering strange tales of forgotten things of the passage of time, which is not, at least in Papua, seeming to say, ever thus have I been, so will I remain. nothing is there to mark the ages. Men come, and pass away into the earth, nothing to denote that they have ever been; just a little mound of dead coral by the side of the track, is but a brief space even this will melt into infinity. No township will ever spring up in this forgotten corner of the world.
[this page includes a sketch titled "MUWO PLANTATION. PEAKS OF FERGUSON ISLAND IN BACKGROUND. ON SOME DAYS THE PEAKS ARE VISIBLE FOR A DISTANCE OF FIFTY MILES.]
[Page 80]
Which on many maps, does not even exist. A thousand years hence, will be as today, unless some mighty cataclysm of Natures arranges otherwise. But little will remain of the tracks imprint of man. Perchance there may be some few palms, growing in ordered line, a foil to Nature's arrangements. Villas basket balanced on head with softly chant, as their bare feet patter quietly along the tracks. Bags bought balanced on shoulder, at either end supporting a bunch of taro, or palm leaf basket of [indecipherable], they too will wander as to-day. Even they, this generation that is seen to feel that they are for all time. The idea of Reincarnates is a rather a fine thing, that one one is never really dead, which is a delightful contradiction to my remarks meant a pile of dead coral and we are not more. Meanwhile I come along with my trivial little box of paints, and essay to to immortalise the immortal upon such flimsy material and canvas and paper. Some of which may adorn the walls of a public gallery - or limber the floors of a studio - time alone will prove their fate. Seeing its been worth the effort, whatever may be the result. Much have I learnt from my mistakes, or perhaps lack of knowledge would be a more fitting terms. Lack of the realisation of what a climate alteration of such a drastic measure, means
30th
Sodden dirty weather almost too dark to see to paint but get going on fresh canvas which I think will be a success. feels that at last I have got control of my subjects, can get right ahead now possessing sufficient knowledge of the subject to carry it though. Mr X R.M. visiting here, quite an interest man, one who knows a great deal of Papua, having lived here some think six years. relates very interesting any amusing experiences, one about the late Sir William McGregor, one of the ablest administrators of Papua. They had to go up to Goodenough Bay. Sir William landed first in a whalesbout, the beach was alive with savages, who immediately collared McGregor rushed him into a hut, and divested him of [indecipherable], the pulled to pieces his watch penknive, and such other articles he had upon him, they then tore the bottom boards out of the boat, and smashed up the rudder, and anything else they could get their hands upon. by this time the other party from the Govt Yacht "Merrie England" got a underfelt gun on the the Coral, this soon cleared the beach. Right though the pieces Sir William remained quite unperturbed. Quite an amusing tale of McGregor blunt manner, he was a dour Scot, who wasted not
AUGUST
[Page 81]
not words. A young fellow called upon him with an introduction from some influential people. "Well mon", said McGregor "what do ye want?" An appointment in the Govt was the replied: Sir William took a good look at the man then remarked "Nae use, I dinna care for the looks of ye" The young man remonstrated "Gang awa said McGregor and the interview terminated. To Karatania Village to make studies. Was not so crowded out with the inhabitants as usual, it being damp and fairly cool breeze, the fascination of Gingini, was not worth facing the elements for. In the foregoing pages I have made frequent and bitter comment upon the Mission, not because they have done me any injury, quite the contrary. They would be quite willing to offer me any assistance did I so desire, neither is my quarrel with any particular individual of that body. My antipathy goes deeper than that. Missions are my bete noir because they are the harbingers to this contented land, of the white mens most colossal blunder, the greatest of his many errors i.e. this appalling mess we are pleased to term civilisation, "Modern progress" retrograde would be more apt, a civilisation that has brought upon us the most [indecipherable] conflict in history, with its aftermath of crime and beastliness. If they bring civilization into unknown corner of the world, we can add to its beauty and give to them something of worth, very well, but unfortunately almost the reverse is the case - at least insofar as the Trobriands. The Mission comes stalking along, supported in part, I believe by the Govt. Brings its parading of civilisation, scoops up the young boys and vivilas, shoves them into school house to bend double over books and stuff their heads with futile knowledge Two generations of this, in place of the fine figures and splendid image they possess, they will acquire the streak common to low caste Europeans just as have the niggers in Cape Town and Cairo. Is this not example enough! For centuries,
[Included on this page is a sketch titled as "TYPICAL TROBIAND ISL COASTAL SCENERY, MANGROVE & PALM TREES.]
[Page 82]
they have been intending to educate the low caste European, with what result we now know to our cost. Admittedly the Mission idea - in theory - is excellent to eliminate the evil customs and foster the good, and not to Europeanise the Native, unfortunately the practices in the main, is left in the hands of teachers devoid of imagination, without which an undertaking of this magnitude must eventually be a failure. [indecipherable] amusing story concerning the late Mr Preston - whom I recently buried. He and one other were spending the evening with an R.M. The latter was suffering from a bad headache he requested Preston, who was then a healthy fellow, to pinch his nose, make it bleed, thus cure his headache. Preston demurred on the grounds that the R.M. was Government. Time went on the R.M. commenced to pour vituperations upon Preston, called the latter all manner of names. Preston become thoroughly roused, lost his temper, not only pinched the R.M.'s nose, but any other part of that particular persons anatomy that came within reach of his fist, knocked him flinging out of his chair, for a few in fact rather R.M. had rather a bad passage, but it cured his headache.
31st
Work on moonlight canvas, coming alright, a Mr Cameron called at studio. A genial fellow, a planter his appearance and attire suggested very much a hero in a play. Clean cut features, blue eyes, fair curly hair, rather acqualine nose, white shirt open at throat, white breeches, green puttees, heavy worn boots. To Kai Kai a M Mears, rather a number of visitors to the Islands these days and two boats is almost a fleet for this part of the world. While in studio, a longish box sent ones though it was a small coffin; most puzzled as to its contents, get boy to open it, which he does with a [indecipherable] find it is my stores ordered some four months ago from Samanai. Once more I feel affluent, plenty of tabac, toothpaste, bottles of whisky and some trade Tebac, now can I distribute largesse. To Kavatania Village to make moonlight studies, I was standing in an open space, surrounded by huts, the slender swaying palms cast a lace work of shadows across which dark specks appeared to be dodging, being busy did not pay much attention. Suddenly a chorus of piccanini voices sent the welkin, singing one of their haunting chants, the sound was close at hand, I looked down, there was a semicircle of quaint
AUGUST
[Page 83]
dim shapes, all piccaninis, doubt if the eldest was ten year old. Never before beheld such a quaint sight. The very tall palms, towering about ninety, or more feet high, accentuated the minuteness of these strange little creatures. Their faces scarcely visible except where the light of the moon made specks of light upon their shining foreheads. The song ones Tabac was of course expected. I sat on the post of a Boima, the piccanins crowded round me, their little rami sticking out at quaint angles. I made each of these wee vivilas put out her hand, into which I placed a piece of tabac, and closing the fingers over it, made them same "thanks for Taulada" so quaint is their rendering of this phrase that it is worth the tabac just to hear them say it. In the village happen upon Pilula and his vivila, who have been making a "walk about" Pilula being of the "rich men" is expected by his less exalted bretheren to distribute Tabac. Pilula to the boys, his vivila to the vivilas, oh dear, white or coloured, human nature is much the same he come to a little known corner of the world. Finding the higher class people distributing to their less fortunate neighbours. Rather difficult to obtain my studies [indecipherable] sky clouding over, and of course some rain. Kaione (good night) to the villages, so to Lousia through heavily shaded track, without a lamp. My imagination no longer fills the bush with strange and terrible beasts and quite prepared to chance a snake or two, that is until such time as I happen to tread upon one.
SEPTEMBER 1
Moonlight canvas progressing favourably. Meet a Cap N, a rather ponderous rotund personality. The whole of him is a study in curves, from his round red weatherbeaten jovial face to his round toed boots. His being attired in spotless white duck rather accentuate his somewhat lavish proportion [indecipherable] spotless while I remark this, for out here in the back block, spotless or white is the only thing our raiment never is, excepting of course, upon very special occassions, Anyway after the first washing, a suit never again in the course of its career is never spotless. There is usually
[Included on this page is a sketch titled "SAILING. THE NATIVES ADOPT ALL MANNER OF SAIL MADE FROM ANY MATERIAL HANDY, PLAITED PALM LEAF. ALSO THIS IS
ANOTHER USE TO WHICH THEY PUT THEIR MOIS. THE PANDANUS STREAMERS IN ILLUSTRATION, SUGGEST THE PENNANTS OF OLD TIME SHIPS."]
[Page 84]
SEPT 1
a decoration of iron mould. Cameron to the studio to take photos of this immortialised sport. Took one with me at work, a vivila looking over my shoulder at the camera. We then to Ravatania village to snap me at work, with my usual audience, but true to the custom of having "a photo took" I was taken as I never am on these occassions, that is, instead of the usual crowd of natives surrounding me, there were only a few; on this particular morning, the majority of them at work in their gardens. This night I am at work in my studio, the Residency overflowing with visitors, that is, one, a quite interesting man, he relates a story of having made the journey from Russell Island to Sannanai, a distance of 400 miles in an open boat, and twenty two natives abound, he did not at any time make a landing until, reaching his destination, some 'sailorman this. This is the first occassion upon which I have worked at night in my studio. It looks rather effective by the dim light of a hurrican lamp, gives it an air of romance. One half of the studio is lined with old sails, much of it has fallen away from the fastenings and hangs in graceful lines some of it over a shelf on to the floor on the left is a shelf of rough boughs, upon which is a despatch case, a jar in which stand my brushes, some empty tobacco tins and two glass jars catching points of light from the lamp, healing up the deep shadows, some pieces of paper whereon a few rough pencil notes, a tin of turps and two pallletes, complete the medley upon the shelf. Underneath is a canvas facing the wall. The [indecipherable] wall of moi and one of the uprights is a vangaten of colour, the result of my having wiped my palettes, shapings thereon for the last five months. Through the opening in the roof, the brilliant blue green moonlit sky makes squares of colour against the warm brown of the ribs of the thatch. The curtain of hessian hangs across like the furled sails of a
[there is included on this page a drawing titled "THE VIVILAS KEEP LOOK AT YOU FROM BEHIND PALMS."]
[Page 85]
ship. I sit upon an up ended case, crates and boxes piled up constitute my table. From the opening which serves as a doorway, the palm leaf door hangs limply from its fastenings of fibre. Without is the sound of the wind hissing through the palms as of the rustling of thousands of silen silken robes. From the native huts close by the musicial intonation of their voices is wafted in by the wind. The scandlle in the village to-day is the arrival of a new engine for W s launch. Quite a handsome looking article and I imagine, efficient machine. There are quite a number of nice shiny levers, and things that go in and out or up and down, or both. There are sparkling [indeciopherable] - I mean sparking plugs - magentas es that is magnetos, carbineers - I mean carberuitters; things you put oil into an taps to let it out again. Then there is a sort of upright lever thing that you pull when you want to loop the loop. quite a fine contraption, in fact. We all stood round and gaped at its shining surface. I made divers inquiries concerning its welfare, pulled the various "gadgets", always of course in the wrong direction, whatime the owner [indecipherable] upon me with a pained and pitying expression. However what all this has to do with Papua, I [indecipherable] not. I believe other countries have engines sent out to them - but then it does not possess the glamour of a great event as does it here, where there is not even so much as a [indecipherable] as a means of locomotion.
2ND
Moonight canvas nearly completed. Arrival of Govt launch "Ruby" with R.M. aboard. Rather an important trial being held here to-day. The trial of a white man. There are five white men present, a concourse of people for these Islands. The Court - Room is attached to our dining room and is of quite modest dimensions, about 20 feet long, by 12 feet wide, at far end, are French windows to the right of these a rack containing their service rifles, upon the wall hand, hand cuffs, a bugle, a [indecipherable] of gun load, and office clock. Upon the right hand wall side of room, upon the floor a safe, atop of which a medley of ledgers and official documents above this are shelves, laden with ponderous book, and piles of official papers tied round with red tape, their edges ooze out in all directions; over the door which leads into the dining - room hangs a map of the Islands. to the left of this further shelves, covered with a piece of much faded art green twill. Upon the ground are two empty packing cases and my [indecipherable] trunks all of which are
SEPT
[Page 86]
surmounted with cushions, and constitute the Court Benches. Down the centre of the room, two office tables placed end to end, which almost cover the whole of the floor space. Upon the tables the usual litter of ink bottles, official papers, sealing wax and other office fitments: a small table in the corner supports a typewriter, underneath the Table are basket of native fashioning, upon the tables are some wooden Rabomas (food bowls) which serves as new receptacles for odds and ends. in the left hand corner of room are more shelves upon which is a dictionary, bottle of quinine, ink bottles, paper clips, etc. the left side of room is broken up by a window, the sash broken, this window is kept open by means of jamming a piece of the lid of a case of trade Tobacco, portion of the labels still attached] adhering thereto. Through this window can be seen two native police boys, in their dark blue jumpers, belts of red calico, surrounded by leather belts, with pouch, and whistle on chain attached Beyond is a vista of palms. In the corner is a case cupboard, the doors half open revealing tiers of shelves with official blue, and other coloured papers thereon. One of the R.M's and myself are sitt out on the verandah sitting upon deck chairs. We are smoking - naturally - whatime we exchange the latest news, though to be more literal I should say, he tells me the latest from South. Another RM. puts his head out of the window and remarks that "the Court is now open". Rolled up shirt sleeves, shirts open at the throat, white pants and shoes. Is the "rig of the day" Meanwhile these being my last few days here, I "fade out" to attend my own affairs. Off to Kavalana to make studies. Find all the materials I require are upon a shelf in the Court - House, so over to the Residency to hang about upon the verandah, until such time as an opportune moment occurs for me to dash in and grab my kit. Fortunately in a short while the Court adjourns, so my kit collected, away to the village, wherein I got rather a hustling. Sat me down upon the support of a boima, the usual collection of piccanins gather round, likewise two saucy wenches, one of whom I used to rest my back against, and a might softly through somewhat animated cushion she made. Naturally they commenced their "Tabac taubada" I politely inform the hussies "Tabac finish" a few moments later one of the hussies looks up into my face and informs me I possess three sticks, quite true, but seeing said tabac is hidden in one of the pockets of my pants, how the devil, did
SEPT
[Page 87]
she find out? I work on, whatime the air is full of these three words, Tabac, Taubada and ginigini. I feel my pockets become suddenly animated, look down to find the hand of the a vivila therein; nothing abashed this bold maid remarked "I GAU (bye and bye) you give me Tabac Taubada?" - yes - yes - I say anything for peace and quiet. There are then insistent requests for pieces of my coloured pencils, one of which breaks hand the piece to one of the vivilas, who therewith immediately commences operation upon her face and breasts. I work on, never was such a saucy wench, she next offers me a piece of beetle nut, and mimics all my replies to her importunities, in such a droll manner that perforce must I laugh, this excites her more than ever. Meanwhile the chorus "Tabac taubada" continues with redoubled vehemence, in fact its seems to echo throughout the village. Next moment I find the wench, scrawling upon the corner of my paper. following the line of least resistance, and withal somewhat curious I get her to make a drawing of a palm, really her crude efforts were extraordinarily good. the result was much the kind of thing drawing a very young child would make, I show her how to draw a leaf, the result was not half bad. She next amuses herself by chanting a native song, swinging her body in a rather alluring manner. Seems to me I've "got off" however wearying of waiting for me to complete my sketch and to being "close up" time for Rai Rai. The crowd melts away with a "Kaione Taubada" (good bye master) they clear off to their respective huts, and I am at last left in peace. All these interruptions were mainly my own fault and one bad precept, but I fear I rather encouraged them, fact is, I find these vivilas something fascinating. A pearling lugger suffering much from vermin, common to most vessels in the tropics. All manner of means had proved ineffectual in exterminating the pests. It was eventually decided to to try poison gas, the ship was sealed up all the boys put ashore, and the gas set going, one of boys suddenly remembered he had left a live chicken in a box in the cabin. However it was too late to do anything now
SEPT
[included on this page is a drawing titled "ISAU" BYE & BYE.]
[Page 88]
SEPT 2ND
there was no chance of rescuing the bird, that fowls "number was up" Sufficient time having elapsed to permit of the gasss doing its fell work, the ship was opened up. First thing was to search out the unfortunate bird. They found it alright - alive; so much so that it had laid an egg!!!
3RD
Work in Studio, studies in village of OLEWEOVA thence to GUSAWITA at L. Noticed a bright spot moving in a hole on side of track, closer inspections proved it to be the head of a snake; looked a fairly large reptile. judging by the proportion of the head. hearing my approach it bobbed down by the time I reached the hole two boys came up said it was a big fellow snake they were trying to catch. I asked them its length, they paced out about fourteen feet, possible more. had I known don't think I should have felt particularly comfortable A most diverting evening at L. [indecipherable] R.M. two pearlers two traders, all Australians. Their was an air of freedom an commaradie which was reminiscent of Australian pre-war days. Many and interesting and amusing were the yarns that went round. Tales of the early days in Papua, of bushranging in Australia, cattle stealing and amusing jokes tales of happenings in Samanai. In one instance one of the Residents was partialy interested in rearing poultry, and thought much of his birds. One night a turtles egg was put in one of the nests (a little egg in shape, size and appearance) is exactly like a ping pong ball.) Next morning the owner of the poultry was tearing round Samanai in a state of wild excitement showing everyone the extraordinary egg, one of his fowls had laid and that he was writing to some ornithological society concerning this extraordinary phenomenon. The following night they put a turtle's egg in three of the nests. The owner of the poultry looked up books on poultry raising, in fact searched out all such information as Samanai could supply, devil a bit found he of poultry laying round eggs. The third night, about five dozen turtles eggs were placed in a pyramid in one of the nests and still the owner of the bird did not take a tumble, in fact
[drawing on this page is noted as being "Man in dancing costume, headdress, white cockatoo feathers, cassowary plumes, dyed red at back]
[Page 89]
his astonishment was great, exactly how he thought the chicken managed when it laid the topmost eggs on the pyramid history does not relate. He did not discover that a trick had been played upon for some days, then it was not until someone gave the show away. He never forgave his friend for a long time. There was a particularly stupid man in Samanai. Many were the jokes that were played upon him, he used to be sent to the for such things, as a tin of stupid paint, a bag of post holes, macaroni seed etc. one occassion he was sent down to the stores for a packet of canary seed, "No you don't play them tricks on me" he remarked. Canaries lay eggs not seed. This was one of the usual pub discussions, the man under discussion possessing about the hardest dial imaginable - "not 'im?! why if yer showed 'im a nut 'e would scratch "imself". Many were the revels, numerous the practical jokes in those days, came a war, no part of the world escaped its malign results. Every amusing anecdote was generally followed by the remark "but that was before the War. Home along the track with the R.M. At the large Banyan tree which stands upon the borders of the Residency ground, we parted he to his launch, myself to the house.
4TH
Put final touches on moonlight canvas, this has been rather troublesome, inasmuch no time to allow of colours drying. Have had to work on wet paint all through. Think it has come out fairly successfully. Every trip I've made from studio to house, have always found boys waiting with curios to sell. Unfortunately the best snapped up by two are R.M.s staying here. As usual I was too busy to get a look in. It has been awful these last few days, place overrun with strangers. Down here for some special Court cases. W says this is the first occassion such a thing has occurred during his tenure of office. Unfortunate my last few days should have been spent in such a state of schmozzle. Have had but little of W company which is a pity as it is not impossible though hardly probable we shall meet again. In afternoon to village of Gumilbaba to make studies. H & C came later H asked for a nami. All the vivilas rushed off to their huts, all very ready to trade every stitch they possessed. Myself busy. H. of course snapped up the best nami, I had to content me with their leavings. Damn nuisance all these White men about, made it difficult for me to obtain
SEPT
[Page 90]
4th SEPT
all the curios I wanted, I have nevertheless obtained a fairly good collection, most of them good specimens, before these blighters [indecipherable] up. Return from Gumibaba, commence the tricky task of packing wet canvas, get Taleuga to assist me. he presented me with his carved lime spoon, a return gift is of course expected Taleuga has been very helpful to me during my visit here. Just a chance he can put me up for a month, shall be well pleased if this is possible, give me an opportunity to collect more data before a matter of 16.000 miles separates me from this fascinating country. L Home up for auction to-morrow. if not disposed of my lucks in, P had also invited me to make a visit but since he also is now moving no chance there: one of the amusing condition if that exist in this country, is that unless ones has friends to stay with, one must remain without the gates, there being no manner of hostel. This night full moon very beautiful; to Ravalance village to make studies. Masses of deep rich shadows like black velvet, the palm leaves shimmering in pastels of light, which had the effect of silver. The village appeared deserted. Sat me down to commence my work, two vivilis strolled up and asked for Tabac (they generally do their hunting in pairs). In Leicester Square and divers other places girls stroll up, but they do not ask for Tabac. Finding there was nothing doing, they to their huts. A picannis face peered from behind a palm, rather I should say it was a shadow with a bright spot of light thereon, where its shimmering forehead was caught by the moonlight, a few more shadows move up, then they commenced to pour in upon me soon thirty or so vivilas were much in evidenced, without the two bold hussies previously referred to. One of them sat down close to me, so close in fact, that her arm went round my neck, whatime the other hand investigated my pocket to discover if tabac therein. Moonlight, waving palms and a dusky maiden putting her lithesome arm round me has its fascination certainly, but when there is a word of some thing or so other Natives are sizes and ages, and one is trying to work, the
SEPT
[Page 91]
situation is decidedly embarrassing, particularly when said maiden will insist upon making violent love, the while making insistent demands for Tabac and divers other suggestions - although I know not the language, it is astounding how much one can understand. Have seldom found myself hung up in any of the villages, or in fact at any time when talking to the natives. Found it all so amusing hadn't the heart to send them all flying, which I could easily have done had I felt so disposed. continued my studies, whatime the bold wench rubbed her shoulders against mine and carried on with her love making. [indecipherable] love of tabac, of course. the night being well forward the [indecipherable] came out. They looked very effective, white feather in hair, [indecipherable] and satchel hanging over shoulder, upon the other shoulder resting a wooden spear some fourteen feet or more in, length. The moonlight making points of light upon the shinning protuberances of the bodys and heads. The piccanin boys, jumped about, shouted and played games, in just such manner as small boys all the world over. My studies completed, give most of the vivilas small pieces of tabac, am then escorted to border of village by one of the guard. These men are placed at each end of the villages to ward off any spirits that might endeavour to make an entrance therein and presumably the habits of their spirits differ to ours. The natives are apparently quite confident that should a spirit desire to enter a village, it would do so via the main track. They are however quite unafraid of their ghosts. Should they see one they will stop to talk to it - so rumour has it. Well after midnight am ghastly tired with the schmozzle of the last few days, and tearing round to obtain all the studies I require. I think had I remained longer in this country, I should never have wanted to leave. It has got me as it does
[Drawing titled "VIVILA IN FULLL DRESS during dancing season." Also noted "The decoration the girl is holding is called a KAINOSABA".]
[Page 92]
4 SEPT
most while men who set foot upon its shores.
5th
To Gusswita by launch, to pay my adieus to L. feel quite broken up now that it is time to close up finish, with Palms trees, dusky maids and the Romance of the South Seas. about five hours sleep last night. Today auction of house and effect, all the whites of the Island over, and one or two strangers. Made many studies, also much botheration of packing and such other mortifications. Six boats in quite an Armada in fact. The day glorious, Fresh breeze, sun not too hot, but general colour scheme not over good. Now anxiously await to hear if house has been disposed of. Eventually packed and ready to be shipped including self. Shall see one more month in papua. News though can remain at Gusowita.
6.
Up betimes finish mail. My trunk tied to a pole which is supported upon the shoulders of two boys, [indecipherable] sketch box and tin of turps carried is by another my easel by a fourth so away to Gusowita, where I remain for about a month. Shall now see life from the Traders aspect. Certainly a large family here. Two traders; Bossess, three small boys, 2 dogs, 2 parrots two cats, in fact "altogether something". Work in village TOKWAUKWA, composition good. Awful weather.
7th
Daylight, no more sleep, parrot screeching, two small boys scrapping, a third howling, two dogs having a rough and tumble, divers natures calling to each other the domestiques, thundering about the the verandah - where is my bed. The verandah about twenty feet wide by forty long. its appearance gives ones a pleasant a feeling of airiness and space. The house is situate at the mouth of a creek and is fairly close to the swamps My new host and hostess most genial, but find the three small boys rather a trial. To Tankaukwa village to make studies. Hope to get away to live in one of the villages if W can spare me some of the necessary bit. All the whites on the Island much fatigued after the frivolities of the Auction. We're only had three batches of visitors to the Trobriands, during the last six months, in each case it has been a most fatiguing business
SEPT
[Page 93]
There is much jealousie and bickering amongst the pearlers here Much intriguing, which is a pity considering there are so few whites, about twelve all told. Can't hit it off with Mission hence my departure from Residency, living at close quarters with one just a bit too much. Hear that the case of canvas I have despatched to London may reach its destination minus half the contents. The customs will open up to see if any egret feathers are therein, which bird is protected and a heavy fine is attached to a breach of this regulation.
8th
Up betimes, and to the village of TOKWAUKWA, morning time alright, most of the inhabitants being away in their gardens so no interruption at my work. afternoon not so bad, shall have to wear a stern countenance, otherwise shall have a repetition of Karataria, which though amusing is an interruption to work. Sign on a cook boy sami, said he "no savey too much cook" which is not much odds, there will be precious little for him to try his culinary arts upon. Taitu and fish will be my main means of sustenance. Mrs L. suggest it would be a good idea if I took a few working utensils with me. This being my first trip arranged by myself, expect I shall get a rough passage, sure to forget some important item. Weather fine, plenty of sun, cool breeze. L. busy building a new house. Seemingly one has to be able to turn their hand to all manner of trades, certainly should care to live in a building erected by myself Although this is the tropics, there is no "Siesta" office hours 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., the officials sit and swelter in their corrugated iron huts, through the heat of the day. One of the disadvantages of the Siesta in this country would be that is get dark so early on longest days the sun sets about 6 pm. Find it difficult to concentrate in my new quarters, there are so many people always about. Find it rather difficult possessing no kit now that I want to trek on my own. I'm doing nothing but borrow stuff a thing I hate, but there is no other alternative its no joke having to take all ones requirement with one, including water, as we whites cannot use spring water for drinking, it having a most injurious effect. Our drinking water has to come from the clouds
[on this page is a drawing titled "VIVILA'S HEADRESS".]
SEPT
[Page 94]
SEPT 9TH
To Kapakula village. Set out for the coast told it was a fifty minutes, walk after two hours have still not reached it. The walk rather prettier than usual, track more broken up. On the right the rich folige of mangrove trees, the ground carpeted with ferns. On the left native gardens. Palms trees and bananas. The Palms being of a greater age than those which generally border the tracks. They are taller and more graceful. The sun light up the folige into masses of brilliant green and rich purple shadows. In places the track dips down to the borders of the creek, very refreshing appeared the placid water, on this somewhat hot day. I reached the village, but nearly all away at the gardens except one old man and a few piccannins. I ask "where big water 'e stop"? but they understand me not. There being six tracks leading into the village, fanwise, am hard put to know which to take. Try one, after two miles find myself back at the village. There are a few more inhabitants in once more the queries "Where big water 'e stop?" a track is pointed out, find water alright, but not the kind I was seeking. I made a third effort, this time I select the roughest track, those near the coast, are generally more undulating and coral strewn, after stumbling along is tortuous route for about a mile find myself once more back in village. The inhabitant conclude the water I am looking for is a drink, I certainly must have appeared as if I required one. By this time the perspiration was pouring of me. One of the boys, shins up the top story of the village pub and brings down a coconut, the husk cleaned off and the top cut away, as is the custom. Nut is handed to me, whatime the villages gather round to watch me pour its luscious contents down my parched throat. They are also in expectation of receiving the bush of the nut and of course Tabac. The cost of a green coconut is ¼ stick Tabac i.e. 1 ½ d. Am quite becoming accustomed to thinking of money in tabac values. Feeling no further desire to explore further tracks, work for an hour in this village. Have a look at my parrot, though Radabavina the present owner is from here - and return to Gusowila. There are many natives at work in their gardens. They appear happy and contented at their work, most of them are usually singing their lilting chant.
[Sketch on this page titled "VIVILA DECORATED FOR SINGING".]
[Page 95]
the whole family works in the gardens, the youngest piccannin put in their time digging up the ground - or attempting to, with bits of stick, as would most infants of tender age, in such conditions. Great are their howls if I should come upon them suddenly, their little feet flying in the air as they rush to their parents for protecting, whatime the latter laugh much. Seemingly I must be a very fearsome spectacle. Should they be at Kai Kai "If I remark "Kai Kai sina boina?" (food very good?) this has the effect of reducing the slowly dripping drooping lips to a smile. Afternoon time to TOKWAUKWA, rather a restless time, pigs squealing and grunting, piccanninis howling, suppose the warm spell making them peevish. Two pigs come rooting round my feet, hit one across the buttocks with my drawing board, seemingly this did more harm to the latter, as they pig continued its its investigations. Small pig chased up a chicken, a dog the pig, the whole bunch rushing into the piccaninis that were ground grouped round watching me sketch. for some moments much noise and considerable confusion. Tokwaukiva is rather pretty then the usual run of villages. It is situated upon rising ground at the mouth of a creek. From above one can see the waters above the roofs of the huts, the sun shimmering and sparkling in patches of colour through the spaces cut by the tall palms. the blue sky, crisscrossed with a lacework work of the rich green of their leaves. There are many canoes upon the shore, about which the youths and piccaninis of the village gamble about, or squat upon the canoes canvas and fish. Canoes softly gliding in with their miscellaneous cargo of Faso, their rich green leaves trailing in the water, bananas, the usual collection of Mois one or two piccanini (the sun making spots of light upon their shining little foreheads) seated upon the outrigger platform, a vivila or two, a boy sitting astern, steering with a paddle, another boy forward, standing [indecipherable] the canoes, poling with a long piece of Rai (wood) It was one of these peaceful days, a soft breeze just enough to temper the heat of the sun. To day for Kai Kai breast of Torres Strait pigeon. The flesh is the colour of liver. Its interesting trying these new foods, being nothing of an epicure, as to flavour thereof it does not appear
[Sketch titled "VIVILA'S HEADRESS OF WHITE COCKATOO FEATHERS".]
[Page 96]
to me as anything extraordinary. Native products which are edible for the white man, Taihu, paw paw, Taro, coconuts, bananas, fish, crabs, turtle, pig, pigeons, prawns.
10th
To OLIVEALI village about three miles from Gausswita see a boima with a curved shelter missing the full length of its right hand side, the first of its kind I have seen in KITIWINA Island. To the beach, colour of lagoon not very startling, some of the coral very fine in colour but not in large enough quantities to tell pictorially waded out to the reef to inspect it at close quarters, rich greens and purples, also some in colour and found resembling very much a piece of liver. Piccaninis romping and building sand castles. Afternoon time to TOKWSAKWA, beautiful day, feel rather lazy but squealling of piccanin rather trying. W has brought the remainder of kit he is lending me for the trek tomorrow, am rather dubious as to the results thereof.
11th
Finding the [indecipherable] of three small healthy boys, which commences at 6 AM a little too much for my nerves, which are in none too good a condition at the moment. Prepare my kit for the trek to Wawelai; that is packing most of the things I do not require and omitting the things I shall. My hostess very kindly shepherds me otherwise thinks I should have been quite a sea.
My kit
1 Stretcher bed, folding
2 Blankets
1 Mail bag containing clothes
1 Mosquito net
2 Billy cans
1 Dirty Wagga
1 Cushion
1 Lamp
3 length of rope.
1 Water jar. About 12 gal
1 Knife, Fork, spoon.
1 Tin plate
1 cup, saucer, plate
1 Tucker box
easl, oil sketch box tin turps)
Kai Rai
1 Tin Jam
1 Tin Sardines
1 Tin Cocoa
1 Tin Butter (awful)
1 Tin Salmon Most commodities are in tins on account of Climate
1 Tin Pepper
1 Jar flour
1 Jar dripping
1 Jar salt
1 doz pkt, cig' papers
4 Tin capstan tabac
Trade Tabac
1 Tin Tea
2 Tin Milk
[Page 97]
SEPT 11
This appear a prodigious quantity of stuff, but as a matter of fact it is scarcely sufficient for even the simplest requirements. Taitu, fish, bananas, cypora (lemons) shall obtain when I reach camp. 1 Police boy, 7 boys, 1 cook boy, two canoes. A beautiful day fresh breeze. reach Kaubi about noon. Kai Kai with Deakin, borrow a frying pan, bread, and fill water jar. then over the coral ridge, almost precipitous in pants, to the village of Wawela, rather a pretty little village situated in the centre of a bay, curbed like a bow, the coral reef sketchy from point to point like a bow string, on either side are the usual mangrove swamp in rear the the coral ridge which reach a height of some 150 feet, the view from the summit, was rather striking. In the foreground, the decending track of tumbling rugged, moss coreil coral, on either hand rich green foliage, between the intestines of the slender trunks of the palms, great splashes of colour, emerald, sapphire and purple, broken across by the sparkling bay, dazzling white of the breakers singing on the reef. At the base of the palms a cluster of sago thatched huts, the beach littered with canoes, some in the making, others decayed, many in commission. get all my kit into the hut, the two boys who carried the water jar, which is so weighty that I can only just tilt it, must have had an awful journey over that villainous ridge - gave those two boys extra tabac, pay off my carriers 1 stick apiece, the villages vivilas sweep floor of hut the boys make palm leaf matting for floor, which is of sand. Find I have come away minus a tomahawk, an absolute necessity, there being many branches to chop, for shelves, sticks to hang things on, borrow tomahawk from villager, my normal condition for the last few days has been [indecipherable], when one is setting up house, however simple, if shops there are none, one is dependent upon the kindness of the other white people, to supply ones requirements just settled down to work, find cook boy does not wish to sleep along village, am in the awkward predicament of having him sleeping in hut - a practice that is not done - there being nowhere else he can sleep simply don't know what the hell to do. Also find have omitted to provide him with a Mori, so to village to hire one en passant I might mention, that the natives
[Sketch on page titled METEROLOGICAL OFFICE TRO OMARAKARA THE SPOT WHERE ULIKUNA, THE WICH DOCTOR MAKES THE RAIN."]
[Page 98]
SEPT 11
[Illustration at top of page titled "A BUNCH OF COCONUTS".]
give nothing, [indecipherable] every little service has to be paid for with Tabac. I have quite accustomed myself to thinking of Tabac in terms of cash, a little piece here and there, may appear nothing at the time, but it is astounding how quickly it mounts up, particularly at 8/- a pound, To-day I have spent 7/- in tabac. had to give my cook boys vivila 1 stick Tabac, in advance of his pay, which I think will be about 3/- or 4/- per week and two stick of tabac, all these trifles appear little enough, but they are extras, there are all the tinned food and other European stuff to be considered, which are very costly in this country. To the village to sketch, Dealing dry had followed me, amused itself chasing up the pigs, cats and dogs of this village, much confusion shouting and throwing of sticks and stones, village approval very fascinating, blue sky, rich colour of lagoons, the tall graceful palms hanging at acute angles over its waters, there leaves waving and [indecipherable] gracefully to the stiff breeze. Selected a spot sheltered from the wind, pretty soon had to vacate, mosquitos came down in a cloud, once the wind drops, this village will become unbearable. Now that I'm on my own without the assistance of prisoners and efficient houseboys. Find it very complicated thinks out ways and means for myself. Travelling and camping in this country requires considerable experience. Have managed to get my hut into fairly good order as I write I am sitting on my camp bed, to my right a stool, [indecipherable] which my oil sketch [indecipherable] supports a hurricane lamp, on the ground lies a cook boy [indecipherable] with a Moi, also the truant dog. In the far left hand corner, three bottles of kerosene, and a pile of [indecipherable], upon the palm leaf wall, hangs a towel and bathers, cups invited from the ends of stick duck into the [indecipherable] of the palm hut, knife fork and spoon, on a shelf in the corner the [indecipherable] of pots jars etc. with it [indecipherable]
[Page 99]
the sound of the sea booming on the reef, some half mile distance, the lagoon water lapping, upon the shelving beach, a few yards from the hut.
12th
Studies in WAWELA. Find light on sand too strong to make work in the open practicable, excepting pencil studies. Certainly oil appears a most unsuitable medium for this climate in many respects. Whereas to get a shaded spot for pencil studies is a moderately simple matter, to obtain the correct light for working in oils is quite the reverse, and in nine cases out of ten well nigh impossible. Ask my cook boy, Sawi, why he will not sleep "long" village he replied: "No one belong me long village, they no savey - me give me no Kai Kai; all same if boy come long village belong me, an' I no savey him, I cannot give him Kai Kai. Seemingly by these remarks the observance of the etiquette of introduction is a most important matter. I asked him how he would fare if he was stranded in a strange village: "all same, if they no savey me, no Kai Kai. This is the worst trait in the character of the Trobriand Islander. Not under any circumstance will they give anything unless they receive a return in kind. My boy is but five days married, his description of his love making most droll: "I see one vivila, thinks I like too much, but she no like me: I give her pourri pourii (potion) long cigar Tabac, she sleep, when she wake, she exclaim, oh I like that boy altogether too much I must go to him, then she like me altogether too much: then pointing to his eyes minus lashes: "I Rai Rai (eat) them all same belong her, she Kai Kai all same belong me, we like each other altogether to much, we marry. He said that the Kai Kai of eyelashes altogether one big Kunt, certainly I shall think it must be a fairly difficult operation, presumably there is the equivalent of a wedding ring, rather awkward if they were having a tiff, nothing to take off and throw at the foot of her spouse a usual procedure amongst quarrelsome couples, I believe. X, his vivila and dog, visit me, bringing me a fresh loaf of bread, for which am most thankful. X though rough, is a most interesting man, get him in a reminiscent mood, and he will draw back the curtain, disclosing many strange corners of the world. For many have been his occupations, numerous the voyages he has made. It was a picture, this man, bearded and slightly cadaverous, attired in engineers blue pants, Kakai shirt open at the throat, heavy boots, he is seated on the palm leaf matting. By his side his vivila, a pretty little thing rattling her lime stick in her ground, the dog stretch out full length asleep dreaming its doggie fancies. The hurricane lamp on the floor throwing up strange grotesque shadows [indecipherable] points of light on the shiny skin of the dusky maiden. The smoke of two pipes and a cigarette making filling the hut with a haze not to thick to be unpleasant, the dark night make a black path of the doorway, through which comes the sounds of the surf booming on the reef.
[Page 100]
Sept 12th
Many and of a diverse nature were the yarns recounted, of quiet peaceful nights in English country lane, the market waggons peacefully trundling into the old world cathedral town of Litchfield, of wind farming round the Horn, "Blackbirding" in the South Seas Encounter with the savages of North Queensland, Stockriding, Tales of rough humour, some grim others amusing all related in most decorative language, most of which I have already forgotten, which is just as well, for though it lent much colour to the stories related, in print impossible. The vivila asked to see some of my gini gini (drawings) I had only the few rough marginal sketches of this journal to show her, seemingly she found much interest herein. She not only looked at them, but carefully studied each drawing, and with what one did she turn these pages. Having carefully gone through every page in case she might have missed any, the book was tenderly closed, and placed in a safe position. When my work boy came to get some water, she jumped up to move the book out of harms way. How acutely anxious was she to do the "right thing" How she quizzed Sami, to see that he was doing his duties, "all the same as Taubarda would wish, she curled up and went to sleep. Whatime X and myself continued our mental roving round the world, or I discussed the sailing points of old square riggers, famous but a few years back, some few still in commission, others under the seas they graced so splendidly, victims of the debacle that sweept the world 1914, others working out an old age, as coal hulks in some port or other, passing out of existence of our so called civilisation. No wonder human nature is becomes so ugly, so warped, we live in an age of the elimination of the beautiful. The English countryside blotched and scared with factories, its country lane made hideous with cumbersome motoring and unsightly motor lorries, other parts of the world rear up enormous buildings, which are nothing better than glorified factories and call them beautiful. I wonder how many of the millions of the screaming, teaming pushing people realise quite how much they are loosing in exchange for this mess they call civilisation, progress. I am not religious, it is possibly, some years since I've sat through a church service, but what a profound truth are these words, "what matter gaineth a man if he possess the whole world, and looseth his soul".
[at the top of this page is a sketch titled "MOLIASI (Chief)"]
[Page 101]
The civilised world is sick, very sick for it has all but lost its soul. Perhaps one day there will be a man strong enough to enlighten these terrified Natives What ails them, but two nights here I had a strange dream, as of the rending asunder of this our modern world. It commenced, with the splitting and tumbling to pieces of the buildings in Ludgate Hill Londn; to the toppling over and crashing to the Earth of Union House Sydney, it was an appaling nightmare, nay a terrible experience, a strange phantom of the mind to explain in the wilds of papua, but this is a strange country that fills the mind with curious thoughts and fancies. X and his party take their leave, I see them to the edge of the almost precipitous coral ridge, which is their route home. As our human lamps lit up the sands, hundreds of small white crabs, scattered [indecipherable] all directions the made off at a tremendous speed, travelling as fast as the dog that chased them, could run. F in Sairi, has not yet completed the hut belong him, let him sleep in my hut, once more. Don't think I know quite enough about these people, the handle them the way they should go.
Sep 13th
Up at day break, wind has dropped, mosquitoes hellish. Think Sami's star turn is boiled tasty, which "fante de mineux" I am having three times a day. Tea a la Russe, bread, jam, fish and coconut had been my staple diet. My cook boy's first efforts at making tea, two dessert spoons, of tea to one cup water! Was wondering whether a knife and fork or spoon would be the best utensils to partake of this brown mass. Take my morning dip in lagoon which is better than most, but little coral flat sanding bottom, sharks cannot get through reef. I've had to pay for my temerity of bathing in its cool waters, it has brought out a slight attack of malaria, my first, we all have to bathe in warm water, otherwise the result as above. Up to date weather conditions have made it almost impossible to trek for longer than four days, if wind does not veer, shall have to quit it is blowing right off the swamp, which means shall get mosquitos in clouds. These terrible insects are more to be feared than anything else in Papua. Note the hatch of several snakes in the sand nearing hut, the largest measured about 3 1/2" diameter, or rather where its belly must have touched the ground. The village cricket team off to the contest to wrest the golden coconut from the village of OBULAKU. judging by the shape of what I take to be their bats, it must be more a game of chance than skill, It must be very amusing spectacle. Promised when my work was finished to go along to the village and make some
talls - , By the time I reached the village; fires were out and all abed, excepting the night watchman, with his long wooden spear, who stopped to parley, by which time the deep shadows
[Page 102]
had vomited forth the other villagers, whom [indecipherable] scented Tabac in the offing. I had not enough to go round, when I came to the last man, I emptied the Tabac dust out of my pockets into his hand, at which he laughed uproariously, thinking it a great joke that he took it so go humouredly, I bought him to my hut and gave him a fair sized piece. Meanwhile I had to talk to them concerning their pernicious habit of asking for Tabac every time I went into the village. I enquired how they overcame the mosquito scourge during the N.W. Swarm, when in this village it must be hellish. They replied "We all go sleep 'long one big hut, make big fire, plenty smoke, that they are not asphyxiated is astonishing. there is no outlet for the smoke except through the intestices of the sago or grass roof. In wet weather when all the fires are in the huts, it appears as though the village were alight, columns of smoke pouring out from every crevice in the huts. No canoes in their huts or on the track, one rarely finds a native without a fire or piece of KOVA (smouldering stick) Sawi tells me that the fires are never out [indecipherable] year round, generation come and pray pass away, but the fires are for ever alight. Wherever they go they carry their fires with them, if to work in the gardens, they take their fires and bring them home with them to the village. To quote Sawi "fire 'e never die". It would be interesting to discover when the first fire in the Trobriands was lit.
SEP 14
Feeling a very poor specimen of a human, just recovering from slight touch of malaria, bumped my knee on a piece of sharp coral (not that coral is ever otherwise) hit my head against top of door (which are always constructed too low) result headache, blistered my hands chopping wood to make a table. TO OBULAKA village, part of the track across there damnable coral ridges, weather to uncertain to get any serious work completed. Purchase a fine fish for a ¼ stick Tabac but cannot obtain any bananas this side of Island. In fact this damnable ridge seems to cut off Wawila from the world. Itinerant vendors, seemingly do not consider it worth while to clamber of the ridge with such little Rai Rai as I might require. I don't blame them. Afternoon to Wawia; rather depressing, although not
[Sketch of mangrove swamp drawing]
[Page 103]
a mission village, it is in a most decayed condition, likewise its few inhabitants, most of whom are afflicted with some malformation. There are only two piccaninis, I opine that in another generation this village will cease to exist. Although rather prettily situated, it is not a health spot. I came intending to remain a fortnight, I do not think I shall be here a week despite the beautiful lagoon and ocean beyond, which fronts the hut, the river is too close to the swamp, (but a few yards) - which abounds with mosquitos and snakes, the former making it almost impossible to work. I may look at the lagoon - but no time - for the glare on the sand and general dazzle of the water makes painting impossible. In fact the unsettled condition of the weather, insects and dazzling light, makes working in the open an indoors undertaking. I never feel able to settle down and work comfortably at the subject I may select. As to Wawela, have not feel well since I arrived. Sawai, awfully slow and rather stupid, I practically have to show him everything. To-day he cooked my fish and taila nature fashion, that is baked on glowing embers. I prefer taila cooked thus in this manner, it bring out the flavour better. The fish is wraped in sago leaves to prevent it from burning. Presumably another dressmaker is starting business in Wawela, a [indecipherable] fashion plate stuck outside one of the huts, although the Papuan think we white people a very ugly colour, they appear to have a penchant for fashion plate illustration. I took a peep into one of the huts, expecting find its occupants asleep not a bit of it, there was the eternal feminine busy making a Doba - the vivila remarked, "all the same Dim Dim" - white people). Certainly these are an industrious people, they are always occupied in some manner - no loafing in this country - till the mission gets a hold of them.
15.
Painting in open result usual and colour when get it inside. over ridge to Kanbi to see D the shipwright, who has very kindly rendered valuable assistance to stem portion of my pants, both of which were hanging in tatters, most uncomfortable when ants are about. Remained for Kai Kai, whatime D opened up some more pages of his varied and colourful life. Having replenished my larder both inside and out with pumpkin, sweet potatoes and bread. So to my camp, through swamp and across the precipitous ridge by the glimmer of a hurricane lamp, effect most eerie, the boulders appeared to spring out of the surrounding blackness, without the many possibilities of putting ones foot into a black void, added not to the comfort of the journey,
[Sketch titled "The whole of the bed of mangrove swamp is covered with these grotesque roots and pointed stakes. note the talon like formation of the roots of the mangrove tree".]
[Page 104]
SEPT 15
which fortunately was only about a mile. Much intrigued upon receiving a mail, was unaware there was a "dim dim Wagga" from Samari, generally news gets round these islands, very rapidly. Weather fine.
16th
Rain all morning, work in hut. Afternoon to OBULAKA to see the cricket match. Arrived too late to see the senior team, but the juniors were equally amusing. The pitch in centre of village. Crowded upon all the boimas and other vantage ground, were the villagers and visitors. I was escorted to the grand stand (i.e. a hut in centre) Though the villagers had come to watch the game, they nevertheless brought their various occupations, or such as they could employ themselves with, the vivilas their grass to plait the men a piece of wood and an adze. The stumps were naturally three pieces of branch stuck in the ground. The bats were strange and fantastic panadoes upon the real thing, though in one instance, there was quite a close resemblance, and oh the ball - The definition of a ball, I believe, is something that is spherical consequently am at a loss how to define this particular specimen. One side of it was almost flat, as to the remainder thereof - well anyway they managed to hit it up some - and with some vim, so I discovered when it came my way. There was a roar from the spectators; when I looked up - the pitch was bare. The teams had vanished into space, but I could discern piccann faces peered at me from under and around Boimas Palm trees and such other places as offered cover, to watch the results of their audacity at hitting up the Taubada (Master) meanwhile the audience continued to laugh uproariously. Seeing I was not wrathful, the teams returned to the play. My position in the grand stand was certainly in an exposed position, an ordinary ball one could dodge, but with this fantastic piece of wood, one could never be certain what it would do. The kept their scores by means of scratching strokes on the mud with a piece of stick. I believe the usual number for a team is eleven, but from what I could see of this game, everyone seemed to take a hand. Did not remain to see which side won, if there was a side. Next seek I understand it is married men against single there will also be visiting teams from other village most of the 32 inhabitants of Wawela being at the match. I was minus fish to-day. Away once more to discover the bone caves. A two mile
[sketch titled "Building model boats is a great pastimes amongst the children in the coastal villages, also the adults model canoes with considerable skill."]
[Page 105]
stumble along a beach littered with chunks of coral, dodging under and over the fallen limbs of decayed trees. Peering into the heavy vegetation on my left until I at last discern the coral ridge, where the caves are purported to be. Then off
the shore to treake through heavy bush, which filled the spot with perpetrated twilight, almost before I was aware of it great ponderous crags of the ridge opened up to view, on either hand pandamno trees, grotesque in the extreme; seemingly like strange monsters guarding the entrance to the dark and overgrown gully which led to the caves, huge boulders that appeared as though about to fall and crush one, noisome, dark black holes in the ridge, stalactites hanging from the roof thereof a general atmosphere of damp and mould. I had to pull myself up to peer into the sombre depths in the gloom therein I could just discern a pile of human bones, in the darkest recess beyond where the cave sheered back to the ground, I could perceive the a scull leering at me, and am not quite sure that I didn't see a snake writhing close by. felt no desire to investigate too closely, but got me hence from this lugubrious sport, as I stept back into the gloom my foot dislocated a skull and sent it rolling, something crunched under the other foot, it was a thigh bone. My boy Sawi, would not come with me to explore this vale of the dead. I believe the relics are supposed to be sacred, or there mayhap be so socerey attached thereto, when asked as to the whereabouts of these caves the natives will always feign ignorance on the matter. With regard cricket, it is considered a point of etiquette that a visting team must not win, every boy posseses his own bat. If a boy is a particularly good batsman, he gets another boy to make his runs for him, also as to the number of a team there might be ten on the one side and thirty opposing.
17th
Work in studio, wind most boisterous, blowing through every crack and crevice - there are many. Entrance to which there is no door faces the ocean and gets the full blast of the wind, in the hut cannot even light a cigarette in comfort. D over to bring me so fresh bread, back with him K Kanbi for Rai Rai. Have been reading some of the London dailies, seemingly it is we people who wear clothes that are the savages. life in civilized cities is apparently a dangerous proposition these days. Papers full of crime murders and wars.
18th
Work in Wanvela, S.E. still holding thank goodness though the ceaseless swish of wind, and beating of breakers on the reef is a little disconcerting but not half so much as are mosquitos. Sawi has been very dopy and lifeless since we reached Wawela. To-day, he was whilstling and singing, smiles all over him. "My wife she come Taubada". It appears that he had been moping at being away from his Mrs.
[Page 106]
SEPT 18
Great his joy now that he has her with him I gave him 3d to make a feast (i.e. ½ stick tabac to make sagali) Meanwhile the vivilas from the village have been visiting all the afternoon, great the clatter of tounges in rear of my hut, where stands in house belong him. When I first arrived I told him "when wind 'e finish I return" every day he would remark "wind 'e close up finish Taubada." his wife here, presumably, I shall hear no more of this. It is considered very bad form to ask a vivila her name: it is not done by the best people. The correct etiquette is to inquire from someone else a persons name that I desire to know. The person in question, may be standing close by, it matters not, so long as the querie is not put direct. I was told some thrilling yarns of one Nicholas the Greek, a notorious character in these waters come few years back. The narrator had known Nicholas personally. It was a common practice of Nicholas, that when nearing the end of a trip, he made life so hellish for his boys, that they would fret, thus saving Nicholas the expense of paying them off. Upon one occasion his malpractices had been so fiendish, that the boy conspired to rid themselves of this hell hound. They had were on a pearling expedition. Nicholas had just come up and was climbing into the boat when the boys attacked him with Tomahawks, they slashed him across both hands and on the shoulder. Nicholas sank back into the sea, the boys concluding that they had done for him, held "a sagali, meanwhile Nicholas had contrived to get round and hang on the the middle of the schooner, presumably to rid himself of his cumbersome diving suit, he ripped it off with his knive, but what miracle he performed to rid himself of his weighty helmet, history does not relate but rid himself he did, and there he hung on the rudder hidden by the counter of the ship, until dark, when he quietly slipped back into the water, swam round and clambered on board. He then attacked and killed the whole of his crew threw their bodies over board and maimed as he was, single handed, sailed his boat into Samarai, in which place he remained in hospital for some weeks. Forever after all his fingers were bent round as though forever clutching at something. Upon another occassion, he was out fishing for Beche de Mer with a chinese crew, they had obtained a very good haul, In those days Beche-de-mer was worth £400 a ton. He sent the crew on to the reef to collect the final load. Whilst they were busy at work, he up and
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away, leaving the miserable chinamen to perish. When he reached port, he informed the authorities that his crew had stolen the dingy and decamped. Another nice little practice of his was to shift beacons marking reefs, he was alright, knowing the waters so intimately, that he could get anywhere without even a chart, but it meant disaster to strange vessels. Although the authorities knew of his depredation, he was cunning as he was brutal they could never catch him red handed, even when they did obtain sufficient evidence, he always eluded them. He was as courageous as he was evil and was covered with wounds from head to foot. Another notorious character, some fifteen to thirty years ago was Bully Hayes. During the days when coloured labour was used on the Queensland sugar Plantations, much "Blackbanding" was practised Bully Hayes or Nicholas - forget which - was on one of the slaving expeditions. They had kidnapped a load of Solomon Islanders, when well out to sea the poor devils broke open their prison and attacked the crew, For some little time there was some stiff fighting, the scuppers running blood, eventually they destroyed all their prisoners, throwing the bodies to the sharks. The conflict over one of the crew - a Soloman Island Boy remarked "we make plenty bloody good fight, me all same like plenty more".
19th
Oil study of lagoon which is looking very beautiful to-day, colour most brilliant. Stores arrived and some literature for which I'm truly grateful, had read the label on jam tin, backwards forwards, up and down. My mendacity becoming chronic, am begging and borrowing from all and sundry everyone most good to me, always ready to help. In Wauvila village noted a heavy steering oar, the handle quaintly carved. I presume it is a common practice to steer the large canoes in this manner, but this is the first one of its kind I have seen. A similar method of steering ships was used in Europe in the 12th Century. Some of the floats of the fishing nets are carved with most intricate designs. Seemingly in the earlier days they [indecipherable] everything of wood received the attention of the craftsmen.
20th
Studies. Wind troublesome, if place cover over door, it obstructs light, if no protection wind almost strong enough to below me me through wall of hut. Palette and easel shaking the
[Drawing - with following notation "A TOKAIK
AYA This platform is erected for the spirits of Tuma to sit upon, in order that they may not get trampled over.
Also "Platform upon which food is placed for the spirits see the MILAMALA July 28th."]
Page 108]
SEPT 20TH
the whole time also light bad, out on lagoon in canoe, colour fine, rich deep blue green almost pure emerald in the shallows. Plenty of movement when up to the reef, where large seas were breaking. I suggest going outside, but the boy will have none of it, no would I had he 'put my suggestion into execution'. A pretty kikita vivila (small girl) in this village, almost European features. Savi very slow, and equally stupid, have to tell him what to do every day. Taitu and fish three times a day, seven days a week, becoming slightly tedious, once these boys have left service and returned to village life, they almost forget almost everything they knew. When my cook-boy said : "he no savey cook" if he never spoke the truth before he did on this occassison.
Mail to Samanai per "Sophia".
21st
A Piccanin to sit; he was very nervous, twisted himself into knots the whole time. Was also rather dusty and dirty sent him to get well oiled. forgot to tell him not to paint up, he returned fully dazzled painted, one half of his face jet black with a border of white spots. This decoration made it difficult to get the drawing of the face. Ceaseless wind rather distracting, so seemingly do the villagers. Both this and Lebola two villages that receive the full blast of the S.E. which is normal seasons usually blow for about four months without cessation. The two villages one fast dying out. The wind appears to have a detrimental effect upon the physique of these natives. Although the inhabitants of Wawela are a poor looking lot. Their animals are in a better fed condition than in any of the many villages I have visited. D and his vivila call in seemingly also all the village, the door was blocked out with brown faces. My cook boys Mrs came in to have a chat with the vivila, they hadn't been "yapping" ten minutes before they got up to go and make an inspection of my kitchen quarters if such they could be called. I fear the comparison between mine and D's was to my disadvantage, an opinion which the vivila very bluntly expressed upon her return. Seemingly the two vivilas were much engrossed discussing domestic matters D's vivla being the companion
[sketch titled "The inhabitants of a village obtain their water from spring situate generally about a mile from the village. The VIVILAS fetch the water in coconut shells which are corked. They much resemble bombs in appearance."]
Page 109]
of a white man, presumably she was considered class arguing she treated the others in a rather "hoity toity" manner, whatime she dispensed "largesse" in the form of beetle nut and tabac, the others then betook themselves to the rear of the hut where they held a "Sagali". As my old friend Pepy's would say. "I do think that their chanting was the best I ever heard and did please me much so melodious was it." If a native has been guilty of a crime and the offended party catches him or her as the case may be and gives the offender a beating, the guilty person makes not the least effort to retaliate or defend himself in any manner, if on the other hand, the offender is innocent, he will put up a fight. Another custom, if a man should be caught thieving or perpetrating some other crime although several persons might witness the act, unless one of them go up and actually place their hand on the thief, under the native code, the latter has not been seen to make the theft.
22nd
Painting in village, dull day, but wind very annoying. Sea good colour. Have not yet seen a really beautiful sky in Papua. Generally the sky is rather a dirty insipid colour, this made be due to the strong contrast made by the brilliance colour of the waters. To-day rather strong sunset, but the effect was cheap and tawdry in the extreme. So far in all my travels round the world I have seen nothing to compare with the beauty of the English skies: Thought Sawi was going to burn me out, but nothing serious happened. It is rather an astounding thing that although the native huts are built of the flimsiest and most inflammable materials and despite the fact that there is always a fire therein, they rarely get burnt down
23rd
Work for morning finished, into the lagoon, low tide little chance of sharks - don my hat and sit in the water which is quite warm - almost hot. To Kambi to D. He tells me that native labour is not cheap it requiring so many more boys to do the work of one white man, withal they require much supervision - but I think this applies equally to the white man these days. I opine that domestic labour is cheaper and more reliable, although the boys are rather devastating in the crockery and linen, but if one is fortunate in obtaining really efficient domestic assistance even this can to to a certain extent redused. Anyway there is the advantage of always being able to obtain some sort of help, whereas in civilised parts the probabilities thereof very remote and equally costly. Weather beautiful
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SEPT 24TH
Sodden leaden day. Set out for the Bone caves; soon wet through to skin, boots squelching water, reach caves, devil a bone can I see, make an exhaustive search. The Natives like not the remains of their warriors to be made a side show for tourists. They had removed the lot. Just as well, perhaps it was a grisly spectacle and these skuls leering down at you from the crevices in the coral. Am just tired of fish and taitu, despite that the former is from out of the lagoon. Although Sawi, shaping much better is getting a hang of my requirements, if, if had him long enough he would make quite an efficient cook-boy. His culinary art improving - it had need - not that there is much for him to practice his [indecipherable] hand upon. While resting am roused by the sound of violent sobbing. Go out of hut to investigate to find Sawi holding his Mrs arm the latter resting his head on the other arm and weeping copiously. Inquiries prove it some manner of lovers quarrel. So leave them to it. the Vivila flees to bush, where she sobs for an hour or so - Presumably they are reconciled, I hear much laughter in the domestics quarters. To Wawela village - the inhabitants at their evening meal. I am offered thereof - no thanks - My clothes in tatters, stores nearly run out, and pouring with rain. tomorrow for Gusowita. Have gleaned all the material I can obtain in Wawela. have obtained a good specimen of a dancing shield, I think a fairly old one judging by the intricacy of design and care in the execution
25th
Work in village, return to path traps, find Sawi again having a difference with his Mrs. I tell him if he hit his wife with a stick he go along gaol he replied "I no use stick Taubada, I kick 'er with my hand". Away to Gusswita via Kaubi. A blazing hot afternoon not a ripple on the water, We are packed in a small punt six of us. The paraphernalia of my camp equipment covers the bottom of the punt, and oozes out over the gun ales. Foriand - if so small a contraption can be said to possess a foriand, two boys, in centre two vivilas and perched on a pyramid of kit "Nellie the dog". D &: Self hangs over the stern, almost trailing into the water. Two hours of this cramped position, under a polarizing tropic sun, with no sort of shelter, rather a
[Transcriber's note - Sketch - titled "TALESA. OUR COOK-BOY."]
Page 111]
a trial: fortunately no wet to add to the discomfort. Dry weather, though hot, is preferable to rain, when travelling in this country. Learn from L that I shall be most fortunate if half of the contents of a case of curios I have shipped to England reach their destination. That is the want of these civilised white people, their dishonesty is damnable. Pay off my cook-boy who is glad to return to village. He likes not Dim Dim domesticity, preferring his village life and working in his garden I don't blame him. The cost of six boys to cart my kit over three quarters of a mile of this damnable coral ridge, 1/6 = three sticks tabac. Much of the kit was very heavy.
26th
Up betimes and in punt to Lousia to meet W, away in his launch to Vakuta, the most southerly point of the Trobriands, en route stop at Kulitaba for Kai Kai. The owner of this pearling station being absent, withal we make ourselves at home, get his vivila to brew us some tea and provide the necessary utensils for a light lunch. Reach Vakuta bout 4 PM. It is a blinding hot N.W. day. The engines purr evenly some ten miles of desolate mangrove coast slips by. The bottom is visible at some six fathoms, looking much like those glass representations of water common to show cases in Museams. Vakuta is rather different from the other parts of the Trobriands, the villages are more picturesque their general aspect and the present weather condition suggest more than anything I have seen, my preconceived idea of what I thought the Tropics would be like, and is full of possibilities for portrayal on canvas. one village in particular looked splendid in the soft evening light. A great bunch of palms leaning over the lagoon waters some their trunks immersed, the whole in silouhette, the thatched roofs of the [indecipherable] at their base, catching purple lights, sufficient to breaks up the heavy black shadows, in the foreground. Sharp lights on the waters edges giving relief to the otherwise flat masses, W & Bossess are camped in a pearlers house, they are doing things in style, [indecipherable] with them almost lavish and unnecessary table appointments, unnecessary, that is seemingly so, when on the trek, withal, it makes for comfort. Though a too great an insistence on etiquette under these conditions is almost as bad as a too great a disregard thereof. I was informed with much precision as to the exact meals hours, I fear me I shall get into trouble in cause thereof. I generally do with everybody in this respect - unfortunately sea and sky is not knock off for meal hours - any particular effects will not "stand easy" while to enable me to be punctual. People who [are] not of this profession, cannot understand why punctuality is not practical. Though for those who can spare time to watch the clock, must - and do find we painter blokes a sore trial. W as usual all kindness and thoughtful
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Sep 26th
for my comfort. I am situated on a branch line, in a rest house two stations distant - i.e. two villages, the door of my hut faces the lagoon: It is a perfectly still night. The effect is rather that of a delicate Japanese print, there is not visible horizon, the star splashed stay reflected in the lagoon, gives one a feeling of hanging in infinite space. The myraid denizens of the bush fill the night with their multitudinous ovations to the new moon which is in its first quarter. Echoing across the waters the sound of voices from the distant villages which lay on the waterside. This hut is bordered on three sides by bush, there are many snakes therein. The flooring of the hut is composed of branches layed traversely, the many apertures suggest ample opportunity for unwelcome reptiles to crawl though. Mosquitos fill the air with their war cry, whatime their carnivorous proclivities are fully sated upon my person. The trades on this part of Wakuta, differ considerably to the other portions of these Islands. on the coastal side, Palms and sago border them, to the land side plantations, supplant the dense heavy scrub of the other trades, the swamps being further [indecipherable] to the rear.
27th
Studies in villages of OKINA and OKINAI, in this latter a woman was dying, all the relatives foregathered in the dying woman's hut, whatime a witch doctor chanted incantations in a long drawn out wail. The woman has since died; as I came through village to-night, the effect rather weird. The air heartlessly still, the leaves of the palms hanging in great black masses, purple against the moonlit sky. The villagers sitting round the fires in the shadow of their huts. A dim yellow gleam of light stabbed the shadows of one hut, from within which the bereaved husband was emitting a most doleful wait, this wailing will continue through the night. In afternoon to Vakuta village by launch, also visited OSIKWEA, KAULAKA and LORIU villages. They are rather more picturesque than the majority of villages. A glorious clear day, but very hard light which made everything appear as though cut out of cardboard bleaching the colour out of everything. The Dova (skirts) worn here are much simpler in fashion, not so elaborate or "chic" as worn on the other Islands. A few years back the tribe on this Island were very warlike; when the villages on the other islands saw canoes putting out from Vakuta, they would burn their villages and flee into the bush. My boy tells me there are alligators about. The door of my hut is only three years from the water's edge. Hope none of these reptiles will desire to visit me, I possess nothing he craves than a four B pencil with which to do battle.
28th
Studies in Vakuta village. Much fun with the vivilas, who are born coquettes I using this knowledge of this art with considerable skill. Some particularly pretty vivilas in this village, who appreciate fully the
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the minor like qualities of the creek, some few were sitting upon its banks looking into the streams, the while they combed and patted their rich black fuzzy hair. Whatime they looked at me out of the corner of their eyes, giggled and nudged each other, or half walked toward me, bolted and peeped at me from behind a palm a common practice of these flirtatious maidens, two of the bolder spirits would hold each others hand and bolt past me giggling, or creep up and look over my shoulder while I worked, should I suddenly look round, away they would go like the wind their scant dova (skirt) flying up in a truly alarming fashion - alarming, that is, to the moralist) very wee piccaninis would stare with great round eyes, finger in mouth, should I return the stare the [indecipherable] corners of the mouth would droop - then, oh the howls, until the parent snatched it up from the seeming clutches of the fearsome Taubada. In OKINAI village a requiem service was being held. about a couple of dozen natives commence in a long drawn out wail finishing in a 'shout, they did not appear to keep any given beat, one would be commencing his wail whilst others were half way through or finishing up their shout. If noise will carry the spirit of the departed to TUMA - (the spirit world) it should have reached there long ere this. In lieu of wine & cake common to British funeral festivities, these peoples partake of cocoanuts for their Segali (feast) Have run out of Tabac am reduced to smoking "trade" native fashion, i.e. rolled in a piece of newspaper. In OKINAI making moonlight studies. The question of light rather a problem. in daytime too much, at night owing to inadequate lamps, insufficient light.
29th
Studies in Vakuta. rather trying day, boy along to hut, called spides he say: "you altogether too good Taubada, you stop long New Guinea, I sign long you, I plenty good boy. Big was 'e stop yet Taubada' expec' you plenty big fright." They were much interested in my gold [indecipherable] crowned teeth asked me if "they plenty strong."
30th
Studies in OKINAI. rather pretty village situated on coast. Beautiful by moonlight, but light too hard in daytime, making nasty hard streaks against the shadows. noon. Leave Vakuta Island for Glibu. Glibu passage a villainous place to land, strewn with large coral heavy S.E. wind make landing difficult. The village rather picturesque, facing the passage, the sea a rich bottle green, breakers frothing dazzling white in the sunlight. Remain half an hour then for Muuo Island, ten miles distant. Beam wind, boat behaved abominably gyrating, almost twisting the inside out of her - and us, most uncomfortable ship. We are close to a reef, new engines of which the owner know little, which is worse than nothing, the general unhandiness of the crew, and heavy ground swell, make me feel most uneasy.
[drawing titled "Waiting for the dance to commence."]
Page 114]
Sept 30th
Despite discomfort, made good run to Muuo, our cook-boy had the tiller, bumped the landing, bumping into wharf, smashing jibboom gave us all a severe jolting. Kai Kai at Muuo and away 7 PM get a mile out, engine trouble, drift with heavy tide, one of the skippers suggest throwing over the hook which since we were wallowing helplessly in the trough of the waves and drifting in waters full of coral, was almost masterful forethought, seeing there were already two skippers, once of which knew just enough to be dangerous. I refrained from making a third, kept my own ideas of seamanship to myself. Half an hour to get engine going, return to Muuo for benzene. Once more away leaving the lee of the land, boat lurches heavily, almost on her beam ends, meanwhile all the ports are open and remain so. one boy going to hospital with injured arm, is thrown on floor of cabin, all our kit atop of him, poor little devil scared out of his wits, thinking ship will capsize. Make up to windward again to make lee of land; but just as bad. four hours of this horrible lurching, feeling our way through the coral strewn waters. almost reach Lousia, run aground fortunately only sand. get off and away to sea again to find beacons marking deep channel so [indecipherable]. one of the crew about us nimble and useful as an elephant. once more landing bungled hit wharf, skippers contradicting each others orders. one of them has a habit of making his landings running with the wind. Fred Couerbech relates interesting experience of some twenty years ago. himself three other white men and a native were exploring the back blocks of Buna Bay, country hitherto untrodden by white men. They were attacked by hordes of cannibals, about fifteen hundred strong armed with spears and clubs. These four men and a boy kept up a running fight against this strong force for ten hours. Two of the four white men lost their nerve. one so terror stricken, he could not stand up, crawled for ten miles on all fours through heavy bush, the other flung away his rifle and bolted for the coast. Meanwhile the other three kept driving off the enemy and retreating every few yards, always taking the precaution to keep to open ground, had they once got into bush all tall grass they would have been overwhelmed. The Natives unused to rifles took it for witchcraft, when one of their number was shot, they were frightfully puzzled, would stand the dead man on his feet, quite unable to comprehend why he fell down. Fortunately, there was plenty of open ground and an adequate supply of ammunition. The four men eventually contrived to get within the territory of a friendly tribe. Whereupon the enemy retired - I rather fancy that in the excitement of
the battle, the number of the enemy may have been considerably overestimated fifteen hundred against five men, seems rather long odds.
OCT 1
Strange craft, sighted, in launch to inspect, find it to be the G.R. Williams, Mission launch. return to Gusowita. Put in day preparing kit for final trek South. The people of Vakuta, but for their colour might be Jews, there is little of the negroid in their features. The same might almost be said of the majority people in the Trobriands. Though the Jewish cast of features was more pronounced in Vakuta.
2nd
Studies in WEWAIOA village, and bargaining for curios and practice I have hitherto avoided, it would have impeded work too much once they get wind you are out to buy things, these keen salesman will bring anything and everything for sale, and hang round for hours until they do a deal. It is quite a game. They ask little enough, in fact almost ridiculous sums for the amount of work in the articles they sell but the price small as it is is quite a large sum to them. They have no sense of proportion in these matters, asking as much for an article that has taken but a few hours to execute, as one that has taken a month or two. Saw an old lime spoon, I particularly desired to possess. there are very few old curios remaining in these Islands. Most of the original stuff having been snapped up some years ago. offer two stick for lime spoon; nothing doing - the old woman, then polished it up with oil, and again brought it up for my inspection would not part with it for less than two sticks Tabac. offer 1 1/2 , no good - I then pretend I have done with the matter, continue my studies - after two hours pack up and pretend to leave village. She
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then bounded along, let me have it for one & half sticks. Can't say studies were a success, was bombarded with all manner of articles for sale, including one enormous bowl, which took two men to lift. In this village saw a boy with a rather beautiful face: large eyes, small mouth, beautiful eyelashes, but for his colour, he might almost have been a European. his figure unfortunately very meagre, unusually so for a native. The difference in features of these Islanders are extraordinary varied. From the heavy features of the negro to the more refined characteristic of the European. Fine weather still holding, blare of light rather too much.
3rd
Studies in TOKWAUKWA village. Trade for more curios, natives hung on longer than me, result loose two good specimens I wanted to possess. Wages of house and cook boy 10/- per month and keep, which latter consists of 1 ½ lb rice per day, or 7 lbs of tailu. 1 lb meat or fish per week. 2 sticks tabac per week - total cost including wages 5/6 per week. Fine all day, rain this evening. Difficult to work since giving up my studio. Strong light making my eyes troublesome.
4th
Studies in TOKWAUKWA village. See a bag of soris and bones which a fervid imagination might designate a dog. Call village police boy instruct him to have it destroyed. No use to tell them it was cruel to see an animal in such condition. told them all their other domestic animals would get in like condition, if the animal was not destroyed. With much glee all the piccannis, and a few adults, commence to throw spears at the animal. the [indecipherable] being [indecipherable] of light wood not efficacious as a means of putting the dog speedily out of its misery. Stop their devilment and personally supervise destruction of do. Am attacked by a pig. A clout on the snout with a stick soon puts it to flight. Torrential rains all day and night. the rain has ceased. The waterside of the village is a study in silver grey, dull greens and browns, The Palms and canoes which line the semicircular beach are mirrored in the still waters of the lagoon, broken only by ripples from a canoes, which glides round a bend in the creek. A vivila is polling swimming her lithesome body to the stroke of the pole. The lilt of her chant echoes across the water. The large head and minute shoulders of a piccanini just visible above the vegetables and baskets which litter the outrigger. The almost still atmosphere is filled with the many sounds of the bush, the croak of countless frogs, the chirp of millions of crickets, which are never silent day or night. A few parrots screech on their homeward flight; the peculiar cry of the Torres Strait pigeon like the falling of a spent bullet. Flying foxes flit from the deep shadows making blobs of black against the silver grey of the sky. From the village comes the low murmur of voices. Thin spirals of purple smoke rise vertically in the still air. A few vivilas come down to the waters edge and deposit a litter of cocoanut husks and other debris from the meal just finished. Which debris floats out down with the tide, an untidy string of shadows on the silver, grey water. Night coming apace, blots out the huts and foliage with one heavy dark mass, relieved slightly by the lighter grey of the trunks of the palms. Their leaves a silouhette against the sky. The canoes look like so many logs laying on the edge of the lagoon. A fish flops out, making a series of rings on the surface of the water, which grow in size and die away again until the water is once more unruffled, and silent.
[drawing titled "Portion of prow of canoe."]
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OCT 5
To Gumilitaba in search of curios, nothing doing, all away at their gardens. Have been trying to do a deal with an elderly vivla for a anew rami she has just made for herself - To-day she sent it along to the house, not however, wearing it herself however but put it on a young vivila, this latter painted up and beaded, the idea being presumably that it would show of the doba (skirt) to greater advantage. Coming along track, happened upon four vivilas carrying heavy bundles of wood. They did not hear my approach, one turned round, whereupon the whole four sent their bundles crashing to the ground, and flew up the track.
Weather S.E. fine
6th
Studies in Tokwaukwa. Weather fine. price of curios rising. very difficult to procure. Really good specimens few and far between full moon the sound of drums draws me to Tokwaukwa. eight.boys standing in a circle beating drums which are of two tones vivilas walking round the drummers in pairs holding hands, occasionally a couple will break away talk to some boys and disappear - presumably this is a "getting off" stunt.
7th
Studies in TIAVI and to see the cricket match. Bushman versus Salt water boys. I watched the game from the corner of a large tree. They were hitting up the wooden ball with some vim. Every time the bowlers sent their missal flying, they would call out "hows that" which being the only English words they were using sounded quite odd. As well as the two batsmen running, there were also two boys with small wands, who ran with them, what exactly was the function of the two latter I was unable to ascertain. Any particular fine piece of play, would create tremendous applause shouting the whistling. The scoring board was a palm leaf, the runs being marked by the simple means of tearing off strands of the leaf to the requisite number. The winning team taking the leaf back to their village. Game over, scores counted and all the shade of the palms to hold sagali (feast) It was rather a festive scene, the huts and tall palms on the left. The players shiny with plentiful application of oil, glistening in the sun. In the shadow of the heavier trees which border the village, the groups of spectators, boys with flowers in their hair leaves in armulets, vivilas in their bright red dobas, making a splash of colour, their hair decorated with wreaths of flowers, the bodies draped with beads and sapi sapi (native wealth) faces adorned with red and black stripes - which later looked quite effective, coconuts are brought from the village are placed on the ground in pairs. The Chief stand at each pair, calls out a name, the nominee comes forward takes his share and returns to the crowd. Taitu, beetlenut and Tabac also passed round. The show over. The visitors return to their respective villages - before leaving however, the vivilas - like their white sisters - must of course titivate and give themselves a fresh application of coconut oil. It is during the dancing and cricket seasons that quite a number of marriages are arranged. One of the wood carving fraternity brought some of his work to do during the intervals. See the wench Radakavmu who tell me that my little parrot is dead.
8th
Sailors Sunday. Make and mend. Fashion a pipe out of a corn cob, extract lead from a pencil using the shell thereof for a pipe stem, holding same together with string, the strands from the knots therefrom, sticking out in all directions. This masterpiece of craftsmanship looked as it made from a design by Heath Robinson. It smoked alright, unfortunately the pipe as well as the tobacco. To Taivi village. Weather sunshine and rain.
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9th
Fed up. Mail due in a week ago, not yet arrived. Glare of the sun last few days made my sight very bad. Thunder, rain and wind all day. Watch L washing pearls, quite a simple matter just dipping them in a solution of sunlight soap and warm water then drying them with piece of silk. Next process will be grading, i.e. selecting pearls of similar size and colour.
10th
Studies in Tiavi, threw it in, riot of piccannis playing cricket too distracting. This place a babel of shouting voices from dawn to dusk, impossible to think, shall be glad when boat leaving, cannot get to any serious work. All morning muttering thunder, afternoon a deluge. Leaden sodden sky all day. There is a theory that handling pearls too frequently impairs the memory. Pearl buyers generally carry [indecipherable] in a lead lined case. Manager of Bank of N.S.W. Ramari, tells me it is a beautiful sight, when the pearl buyers come in from the backblocks and place on the table pearls amounting to some £20,000 in value. One of the [indecipherable] factors in the value of a pearl necklace, is the difficulty of obtaining pearls of similar proportion and colour and grade. There is much competition and jealousy between the pearlers on these Islands. Although they are practically at war with each other, they meet, talk and lend each other commodities when stores are low. It is one of the curious conditions of life here, that one is compelled to borrow or lend to one's bitterest enemies. The actual swimming for pearls is done by the Natives which is done mainly in shallow waters. 3 fathoms is the greatest depth they will dive, but one and half fathoms is the general practice. They come to the store attached to each trader station for tabac (free) before they go out swimming. When they find pearls the general rule is to sell it to the trader who will offer the biggest "Trade" or price for them. Some boys will remain loyal or prefer to deal with one trader only.
Purchase native drum, which in shape is fashioned after the pattern of an 18th Century canon. Presumably the original of this design was made from a cannon of one of the ships of the early explorers to these Islands.
11th
To Oliveali village, wherein the abode of one of the principal quiaes (Chiefs) of the Trobriands, I take up my position on [indecipherable] Boima in the village, most of villagers away in the gardens. These few remaining pay me homage bending as they walk past in august person. Immense interest is being taken in my wonderful corn cob pipe with its bits of string round the bowl and pencil for modest price. Whenever I enter a village the inhabitants call each other to come and see it. Think should have been well advised to leave it at home, the interested crowd rather disturbs my studies. They think this pipe a huge joke they always roar with mirth when they behold it, so also do the whites. As I pass along the track natives working in their gardens call out to me, as is the custom "Where are you going" Ahead of me about a couple of [indecipherable] vivilas all eyes and [indecipherable], upon their heads baskets of Kai Kai When they observed me their feet fairly whizzed through the air as they flew for the safe cover of the bush, which soon swallowed them. I strongly suspect that as I passed the sport numerous brown faces were peering at me through the intestices of the heavy bush. To Tokiwaukira. A beautiful day. Mail in
[sketch titled "The King's Chair".]
Page [118]
OCT 11
A large fleet of canoes, under sail coming up the creek. the occupants glistening from a recent application of coconut oil their heads and amulets decorated with flowers. They were voyaging on Rula business (i.e. exchange of Native wealth. The latter consists mainly of belts of sapi sapi, shell amulets, stone adze [indecipherable]
The chief of olivels possessed two shell amulets, it was to obtain these, the expedition had set out from Ravataria village. They brought with them much fish, tadu taro etc as gifts to the chief. Other villages had also made efforts to obtain these two amulets which are much prized, but without success. This party however achieved their aim, great the excitement on the return journey. Blowing of conch shells and much shouting. These event are interesting but are not spectacular. In fact there is little or no pageantry on these Islands, were one not "au fait" with what was afoot, it would be impossible to know there was anything toward, excepting naturally the dancing and singing, which of course is obvious. Always as I leave Tokwauku the piccannis escort me to the village boundry. Funny little brown creatures. With their large heads and distended abdomens. The vivilas as coquettish as their elder sisters. The straggle in procession behind me, to the commencement of the track, which is generally as far as they will venture. Should I suddenly turn to retrace my steps, they will scamper off helter skelter for the confines of the village huts. Once I am well on the tracks, these quaint brown pieces call out in their piping voices. "Kaione Taubuda" (good bye master) keeping this up until I am well out of sight.
12th
Painting in Tokwauka. The continued uncertain weather conditions makes it absolute essential to get everything at one sitting. It might be another month before an equally propitious day occurs, by which time the position of sun will have altered not to mention alteration in the tides. The sun moves so rapidly that from two to three hours is the utmost limit it is possible to work on one sketch. I found the only satisfactory method is to work the sketch up to its utmost limit. Make careful pencil drawings of details, and work the canvas in the studio. These remarks refer mainly to landscape and marine. With figure work it is rather simple, it being possible to move the model with the sun. The nice shiny forehead of a piccanini appeared so tempting that I painted an orange spot thereon. Immediately numerous other piccannis and a few adults lined up for treatment. In a short while quite a large per centage of the village possessed festive facial decorations. Upon the forehead of one vivila I painted a large star, which really looked quite effective. Since the advent of my wonderful pipe quite a large number of piccannis have followed suit, and are now the proud possessors of corn cob pipes. The toddlers having dummy stems to theirs Perhaps in time these pipes will supplant their present method, which is to make their cigarettes, by rolling the tabac in a leaf or piece of newspaper, this latter makes really a quite good smoke. I have frequently fallen back on this, when my stores of Capstan have run out.
[sketch on this page is titled "The dye work Ltd - very limited." See Aug 9 fashioning of a Rami DOBA.]
[Page 119]
What a glorious life is this for the small sons of traders. The eldest boy here at an age seven years, bosses numerous of this younger generation of the adjacent village. Plays games and cooks Kai Kai with them, is the proud owner of the canoe. Speaks their language almost as fluently as the boys themselves. A trader's life has its trials, certainly. But compared to city conditions, it is an easy free existence and should a good season occur, most lucrative. A permit in midst of confusion of moving into new house, at present [indecipherable] but half completed with the exception of a few yards of gutter a couple of water tanks and some nails. The whole structure is composed on native material. The shingle roof is an improvement on the corrugated iron roofing common to the residents of White people in Papua, which latter is extremely hot and when it rains very noisy. To me life here is almost like living a play. Each morning when I wake I wonder what comedy with be staged when the curtain "rings up".
13th
Studies in Tokwaukwa. Thunder much rain. Further confusion of moving. The White population of Papua are most critical of any articles written and published concerning this country. Journalists and others who splash ink, they hate like poison. Beatrice Grimhaus exceedingly clever pen pictures of Papua, to them is anathema. Judging by their comments anything other than the cold analytical treatise of the anthropologist is a libel on the country. They do not appear to realise what the majority of people that read, live amidst the crash and roar of civilisation that if an article is descriptive of the country is to carry considerable emphasis upon salient points is essential. That literature is something more than a bare statement of facts. The public desire considerably more than a Topographical anthological
study of a country. It wants to feel the vibration of life, colour vitality. To mention that you write is to get oneself thoroughly disliked When I first landed in Samasi, I was taken for one of those - dry white people, by the same token would every obstacle have been placed in my path. Although they cavail at most that is written about the country. It is to the writers thereof that they are the least ready to impart any information. These remarks may not apply to every White man in the country, but they are the general consensus of opinion.
14th
Much schmozzle. Sodden weather, impossible to go out. working admidt the hammering and crashing of building operation, the shouting of numerous boys working on the job. If when working in a village I should chance to make study of a piccanni, all the mothers bring also their infants in the hope that perchance I might also sketch them - the infants. When painting In Tokwakewa, the Natives took a keen interest in the progress of the work, discussing amongst themselves the particular part of the subject I was at work upon - some few running round to the spot I was portraying in order to be in the picture. At this juncture a camera would have been most useful. I cannot spare time to make finished studies of all the data, I am collecting. I have been promised some photos, but doubt me they will be a success. Once the natives get an idea, they are having their "picters took" they immediately arrange themselves in rigid and impossible attitudes. The mad woman of the village caused some division this morning. She decorated her head with flowers and a page of the "Soullatier" she then bolted off in a canoe, much to the chagrin of the owner thereof.
15th
Studies in WASHISUIA village. Final move in to the uncompleted house. All the goods and chattels litter the floor of large verandah not to mention, 1 dog, 1 puppy, two parrots two kittens, three small boys. After arrival of village maidens decked out with flowers and heavily ornate faces. Me to my pencil, these maidens considered they had as much right to stare at me as me at them. two set out to stare me out of countenance in which they were wholly successful, they roared with delight at their efforts. The bold hussies made bold overtures to me, most embarrassing. Weather heavy, Thunder and some rain.
[Page 120]
OCT 16
To Lousia. In Tiavi, a witch-doctor canting incantations, he is making Pouri Pouri over the fish, to ensure a good haul on the morrow. Mossi, a mad native of the Island follows us, en route he holds a confabulation with a native. His gestures suggested an oration of some importance. The crowd which had gathered round found much mirth thereof. The continued confusion, in the new house most [indecipherable] whole crowds of natives, now sit all along the edge of the large verandah. Forming a noisy but interesting dado. these natives there are also many vivilas with their piccannis, which have been brought for medical treatment. The Sinibada, a most active woman, attending to their childish ailments. There is much wailing and kicking of little brown legs, when they are receiving attentions. The elder piccannis - after treatment receiving a banna, their wails soon subside, it being physically impossible to jam their mouths with banana and howl at one and the same moment. Some, one of the many natives which decoratively border the verandah - sitting there placidly chewing beetle-nut the while he rattles his lime spoon in the gourd may have in his shabby pouch which hangs on the belt, a peal of great price - more possible not: but there is just that chance that a great find would happen that might considerably alter the fortunes of the trader. The seemingly almost casual manner in which pearls are purchased is somewhat droll. - Pearls that perchance may some day grace the neck of a duchess or some social beauty. The Trader attired in singlet and patched pants, is occupied upon some one, of the numerous odd jobs which continually require attention upon a Trading Station. A Native strolls up, the Trader puts down his saw, hammer - or whatever may be occupying his attention at the moment, takes a casual look at the pearl, proffered him by the Native remarks: "alright ICAU (bye and bye). The Native ties him to the verandah to settle down for an hour or a day, until such time as the Trader is ready to give him attention. The trader having completed the particular job with which he was occupied, [indecipherable] the store, a rough shanty (generally) of undressed timber. A counter runs across the width of the store. behind the counter a series of shelves,
Awful schmozzle, a large snake is at the moment chasing up some of the poultry, and boys the snake
[Illustration titled "EVEN PAPUA HAS ITS CHARLIE CHAPLIN. 'ME ALL SAME MAKE GOOD MISSION TALK, TAUBADA.'"]
[Page 121]
17th
The riot here appalling. while at breakfast, sitting on verandah about a dozen vivilas with their sick piccannis, this latter maintaining a chorus thoughout the meal. The house boys shouting across the paddock to each other. Parrot perched on chair, screeches the Sinabada her voice above the tumult, screams at the boys of which there are some forty at work on the house now nearing completion - the Natives when working in crowds, become very excited, emit ear splitting war whoopes! Shout sing, in fact appear to have a jolly good time. They are always laughing and joking, much as would small boys playing at house building. The persistent good humour, though refreshing to see is a sore trial to me, find it quite impossible to work. A piccanni to "sit" impossible didn't remain still a single second. To Tokwaukwa, more noise. In the last month or so, have been compelled to do all my work to an [indecipherable]. never at any time is there less than a dozen natives round me. To them I am a continuous side show. A number of the villages in mourning. It appears there are professional mourners, the latter if not paid remains in mourning until such time as their just dues are received. Rather a trial to the debtors to have their debt placarded all over the island in this [indecipherable] I opine that the debt would be payed with all due expedition of speed. The immediate blood relatives of the deceased do not go into mourning but it is they who arrange the period for which the husband or wife, as the case may be, shall remain in mourning. During the period of mourning they receive payment. Should the relatives of the deceased, have a grudge against the relict, so will they lengthen the period of mourning, perhaps it may be for eighteen months - on the other hand, should the relict be considered a good sort, by the same token is the decree lightened. The vivila not a white Trader, when asked why he was not in mourning, i.e. painted black, she replied "we all same Dim Dim (white people) wear black calico (clothes)
News of war with Turkey just through - a dug out for me please. Grey heavy day, Thunder.
18th
From daylight to dusk the air filled with the sound of the contact of hands upon bare flesh. At breakfast, the Sinabada slapped one of the vivilas, finishing in the evening by spanking her sons. The usual noise of piccannis and boys. A horrible leaden sodden day, everyone very irritable. Visit A. meet his Mrs just out from Sydney. To day A caught a ten foot python - seemingly he possesses an attraction for snakes. Although I spent a month in the house where he now resides devil a bit of snake saw I - Everytime I meet A he always seems to have had a conflict with a large snake. To day work a "dud", quite impossible amid such ceaseless rot.
19th
To Tokwauka to take canoe for OKIJPUKOPU village. Get a small canoe with boy to match five other piccannis, come along, ostensibly to help push canoe into the water - at least so thought I. The canoe no sooner under weigh, when in tumbled these five little brown imps. bold as brass, they were coming also - if you please; the result of this added weight, was about an inch of preboard. i.e. clear of waterline. Any undue movement on the "bus", the water would pour in. A small fellow canoe, is extremely difficult to balance, particularly overladen as were we. Move a few inches, and over she goes. As it was, my boots were touching the water. An old boy on the beach, bethought him I was using child labour to avoid paying for hire of canoe and boy - He yelled out after me "Tabac taubada" in such manner as to leave no mistake as to his meaning.
OCT
[Page 122]
OCT 19
I did not make the piccannis disembark, the situation was too amusing; thought me; right no! a piccanins picnic. So off we went up the creek. a beautiful day, the water like a sheet of glass - which perhaps was just as well - everytime one of the funny little brown things moved, or I shifted my position, which was most cramped - the canoe would give an alarming lurch, naturally bringing in water, one of the youngsters had to get busy bailing with a coconut shell. The piccannis commenced to hum a chant. The sun shone glorious through the rich folige of the tall mangrove which border the creek, on occasions parrot screeched in the overhanging folige. A Tores strait pigeon made its peculiar call; it was a halcyon day. Absolute peace. As we got into the [indecipherable] water of the creek, even the boisterous spirits of the piccinnis subsided. All was almost quiet, save the sound of the placid waters as they slipped past the side of the canoe and the slight, plomp of the stick of the boy who was polling. thought me o hell! suppose an alligator shows up! In about quarter of an hour, one of these reptiles came into view. Think I any bustle in this 'frail log - over we go - the piccannis troubles about an alligator! - one of them just pointed and remarked "Big fish, Taubuda" whatime said "big fish slipped into the black depths of the water and disappeared as we were then some few yards off the brute. I was apprehensive it might reappear alongside, however we were now past the spot where it had vanished - nothing occured. Further up the creek I delighted
the we [indecipherable] mites, by giving imitations of parrot speaking and poultry clucking both of which they all tried to copy - the result was rather a weird sounds. There had been some heavy thinking in one of those little heads, which up and remarked "Cumum toia taubada" (drink coconut Master) I satisfied his carnal desires by replying: "alright IGAU, when we get long okupukopu" which presumably the meaning thereof they comprehended - they all grinned - Safely landed and to the village, where coconuts were duly obtained and distributed, and the piccannis held revel, their minute faces half hidden by the nuts as they held them up to drink, before healing them and slithering the contents over their faces. I to my work, about noon, they all paraded up, indicated the position of the sun, little brown hands pointed to little brown tummies, they remarked in unison "Kai Kai" (food) by which token I was to understand they wished to return home, there being a void in six little brown paunches. When bringing these scraps of brown humanity, I reckoned not with their capacious appetites. Fortunately my study was nearly completed - This finished away down stream to Guorwita en route pass a water snake - not large - also many fish, all of dull colours. Nearing Gusowita a fresh breeze had sprung up, water soon came in over that one inch of freeboard, not to mention the canoe developing a leak - the kids commenced to scoop out the water with their hands - confirming where we then were, there was no danger, the water quite shallow; a wetting was the worst that could have happened. I think the eldest of these piccannis couldn't have been more than ten or eleven years of age - the youngest about five or six. Gave them a couple of sticks of tabac to make sagali (feast) Much elated, they to their village; much elated, to pacify irate parents with tabac, whatime, possibly, they stuffed those little empty brown
[Page 123]
tummies, with taitu or such other food as was on the village menu. Awaiting boat to Samanai. There is one leaving which will get me there just a day too late to catch the mail boat south. which means I shall have to hang about Samarai three weeks until depatch of next mail boat. A prospect that please me not at all. This particular packet the "Aero" was supposed to have left a week ago, unfortunately the owner is a most inconsequential person, who cannot make up his mind definitely about anything, and when he does, it is usually a "dud".
OCT 20th
To Tokwaukwa to obtain a canoe and two boys. experience great difficulty Manage at last to get a canoe but no boys. traders are at the game of beggar my neighbour. i.e. distributing Tabac and beetlenut, gratis to the natives. The motive actuating this largesse is that when a native finds a pearl, the Trader shall receive first offer. In theory possibly quite good - the practice thereof, I doubt me, having a most detrimental effect upon the native, causing them to neglect their gardens and village duties, to spend the day or days, squatting upon the Traders verandah to a await distributing of Tabac etc. It is having as bad an effect upon the native, as does the unemployment dole upon the working class, Britisher, Tabac is one and the same thing to them as money excepting that in the case of the native, it is not a necessity: Borrow a boy from the house so away to Karibi. Apart from 'light shower, weather good, water calm. Inspect Deakins new ship which has just left the slips. This vessel quite a masterpiece, leaves me puzzle how one man with only the assistence of two Natives could have constituted her length 31 feet, beam 12 feet loading capacity 14 tons of copra, possession the largest loading capacity for the size to any boat in Papua. Schooner rig, built to take engines if necessary. She sits the water splendidly and should ultimately prove an excellent sea boat. Every bit of her timber, which is teak was hewn out of the bush, heavy work in this country. She is a vessel eminently suited to these waters, certainly it does Deakin great credit. She possesses good lines, it would be interesting to see how she will act, under sail. Kai Kai and to Scinicata, to interview the owner of the "Aero" to see if I could not persuade him to do the logical thing for once - i.e. arrive in time to catch the mail ship, instead of the day after - no luck - time to type his [indecipherable] replies seemed to suggest he would leave this year, next year, sometime, never. Suppose a man had the right to do what he like with his own boat - but there being so few going into Samarai, it is rather irritating. Collect some Tabac for L so home. Most fatiguing journey being short handed - there should have been two boys - I gave a hand with a paddle, very soon both my hands were swollen. Ran into a shoal of stingers, some at least from four to six feet across back, they churned the water up considerably - was afraid they attempt one of their stunts, of leaping out of the water to a height of eight feet, and dropping upon the canoe, which could have soon reduced it to splinters. fortunately they were too scared, and made off. Numerous smaller fish leapt out of the water. A common practice with fish in these waters. Near end of journey my boy flagged, he had polled the whole distance of fifteen miles, without a pause in heavy canoe. I made another effort to assist with paddle, but it was a painful operation. Fortunately I had spells off, for bailing, canoe was making much water.
[sketch on this page titled "Swimming for fish. The boys dive down to about four fathoms, poking in the holes in the coral with a short stick, catching the fish in their hands."]
[Page 124]
OCT 21ST
Hot fatiguing day, and a turmoil of mist. One peculiar trait in the character of these people, is that, if you give them medical treatment, and cure them of a sickness, they expect to receive payment. One most amusing case occurred quite recently. A Native came to the R.M. in great pain, with toothache, the R.M. extracted the troublesome molar, whereupon the patient expresses great indignation because he did not receive payment. To-day, a boy asked me to take charge of some tabac for him until he returned from work. When he came to claim this tabac he also expected me to add to the amount, presumably for the privilege of having safely taken care of his goods!
22ND
A beautiful day, had an opportunity to get some works completed. Some schmozzle in a village, natures getting their wives and vivilas mixed up, one boy came in to -day with a gash down his thigh, over a foot long - the fruits of making off with another boy's vivla. just about this time of the year, there are a good few of these scraps, more often than not, it is a question of [indecipherable] le femme" First of new morn, natives look up at it and indulge in a tremendous hullabaloo, also there appeal to be much "walk about" in progress, many of the vivilas faces lavishly decorated with red and black stripes suggestive of a map of the underground? Visit A Mrs wife relates an amusing yarn. Suffering from toothache one night, she painted her face with iodine, which left it inflamed, when the boy brought her morning tea, he nearly dropped the cup, with eyes almost starting out of his head he remarked: "Sinabada, you altogether too much pouri pouri". Mrs A replied: " Yes, pouri pouri throw one big coconut, hit me long cheek: whereupon the boy commenced to hunt throughout the house for the alleged nuts. Mrs A then told the boy, that the natives who had pouri pouried her, had a big lump upon the back of his head. whereupon the house boy, went to the boys hut end feet [indecipherable] head of each one of them filled with indignation all the boys trooped up to Mrs. A. Their spokesman remarking "We no make pouri pouri, [indecipherable] altogether too much good Sinabada". Upon one occassion, for three consecutive nights one of the boys would come to A about 2 AM and tell him "someone pouri pouri them" at last "fed up" with their importunities, next time he was disturbed he had all the boys out with sticks beating up the bush round the house, he kept them at it all night until daybreak - there was no more tales of pouri pouri
23RD
Another clamorous day. get through a little work but almost impossible to concentrate amid the riot. To Tokwauka, but driven back to this hospitable but noisy roof by storm. To A to have a photo taken - no luck weather to grey. Pearling season now in full swing, likewise the traders was the main topic of conversation, naturally, revolves round three fevolls, Having a foot in all camps, see quite a lot of intrigues. Boy brings a pearl to A it being a "dud" he sends boy over to the opposition who will purchase anything and everything resembling a peal. I
n order if possible to beat his enemy. One of the peculiar traits of the white
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population. i.e. twelve souls - I take it they all possess such, is the scathing criticisms of the incompetence of their neighbours. There is a general air of self sufficiency - which later appears to even attack the "new chum" The [indecipherable] appear to a knowledge of almost anything and everything, but their compendium does not include King's English, which receives very rough handling in these quarters. All are hospitable, some are dull, others lurid, some one or two strike the happy medium. A does not speak to B. C. is on good terms with both A and B. D however is at war with C, but good relations exist between D and A. So the merry go round of intrigue, move and counter move goes on. To the on looker the whole show is a huge comedy. To-day a fleet of some twenty canoes under sail put out for the pearling grounds, they usually depart about 7 AM returning at dusk, to barter their finds. One boys trade consisted of the following.
1 Boat of prisoners of Sapi Sapi. I Pair swimming glasses. 2lb rice, 1 piece of calico, 1 pouch and leather belt, sticks of tabac and cakes of small "Derby" tabac [indecipherable] note. There are all manner of "trade" articles but these are the most favoured. Water spouts are fairly frequent in these waters. A relates of one which occurred in Dobw passage. it broke 'on the land, sweeping away a great piece of the mountain side, with it numerous villages. Hope we don't strike one, on passage through to Samanai.
24TH
With Mrs A to Tokinpukwa to take photos of some of my piccanni models. "Cumai dona piccanins") come every child From the numerous huts, they swarmed into the main open space of the village bundles of little brown quaintness. All very excited, how the little tongues wagged. Proud parents smiled. All the world over mothers are the same, they love to have their children admired. The piccannis were to group round my easel. I was busy preparing my painting kit. When I looked up the wee mites were standing in rows, like soldiers on parade. The effect most quaint.
[drawing titled "A TYPICAL TRADING STATION. (KARIBI, Trob' Isls)]
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OCT 24TH
All shapes, sizes and ages. one tot scarely old enough to stand - oh no, it was not going to be left out of the show, not it. After some trouble manage to get them close up to easel, by the simple expedient of taking a few by their nice soft little shiny shoulders one placing them in position, by which time the others had got the hang of it and crowded round as desired. A sea of funny little brown heads, each with is shiny spot of light where caught by the sun. great round eyes with luxuriant dark lashes, staring up at me. Many brown paunches replete with green coconut and divers other Rai Rai (food). Numerous little fingers fidgeted with bead necklaces, were stuck into button like mouths or fumbled with anything that might be handy as though each were wondering what one did with ones hands when being photographed. It is most difficult to obtain really good photos of these people, immediately they become conscious they are being sketched or photographed. They place themselves in the attitude of attention, remaining quite rigid. Fortunately they have become quite accustomed to me, and remain like normal humans, when I am at work. One small boy looked askance at the camera, and bolted when it faced his direction. It appears to have got round that I am sketching piccannis. Whenever I enter a village, Mothers or rather parents immediately dive into the recesses of their huts and drag forth reluctant infants, Whenever I go into Taukirabura, as I walk past, from the darkness of the dim interior of some of the huts floats out, the quaint piping of piccannis voices "hullo Taubada" and strange little brown heads emerge from the shadows. In villages where I am less known the reverse is the case. Brown heads peer round from behind huts, or quizze through the intestices of Boimas, which afford excellent cover. Then [indecipherable] they will scamper to efface themselves, the smaller piccannis when they find, the fearsome Taubada is overtaking them, commence to howl, panic in their faces. A piccanni to "sit" quite a wee mite. The poor little thing was awfully good, at last it became so tired that it cried and went off to sleep. Weather, sunshine, thunder and rain. the later most fortunate, our supply of drinking water had become very low.
[drawing titled "A HANUA BADA BOY. PORT MORESBY."]
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25TH
Studies of piccannis. My theory correct that the drum I bought was fashioned after the shape of an 18th Century ship's cannon. A French warship was wrecked at Railbola in 1830. To the water hole, Tokwankira village - fear me I considerably embarrassed divers dusky maidens, bathing therein, since at any time they rainment is but scant, not much odds anyway. They merely laughed, and continued the ablutions, and Kai Kai, two of the maidens presumably having a combination meal and bath. To A to see result of photos, not altogether satisfactory, pose of natives too stiff. Colour rather good, some natives walking along the track, in the full light of the setting sun, resembled much a procession of bronze statues. Much commotion in the hen roost, the light of a hurricane lamp disclosed one of the birds in the clutches of a six foot snake. this latter promptly despatched, out too late to be of service to the parole.
26TH
A [indecipherable] day of noise, shouting, and swearing, and the riot of small boys, included the usual chorus of the piccannis patients which latter then under the [indecipherable] of the Sinada [indecipherable] progress most favourable. A knowledge of first aid is absolutely essential in this country . medical attention in many cases being difficult, if not impossible to obtain. With camera to Tokwankwa very difficult to get good results. Settled down to snap one or two groups. Immediately they devined what was afoot. The natives faced round and stood at the attention or took up some equally stiff pose. Nearly out of material, shall be glad to get away. Meantime I wait with kit packed. a brat might be leaving for Samarai, in half a day, half a week or month. I feel rather in a state of suspended animation. Weather fine hot.
27TH
Inconsequential day, making fiddling pencil sketches, and solving the problem of making two going not one, i.e. jig saw puzzles with my [indecipherable]. the "Aero" cannot leave, owner waiting to sign off boy; he cannot sign off his boy, because the A.R.M is not here, the A.R.M is not here, because due to the fact that this launch is under repair in Samarai. Meanwhile, my pants are gone at the stern and knees, my shirts are good if ventilation is the main point. My pyjamas close contact with an H.E. Shell, the boots I wear are borrowed likewise tabac, matches and cigarette papers. one suit I possess complete with boots, they dare not touch, if I wish to arrive in Sydney looking like an ordinary human. A conflict with the Buccaners of the South Seas as represented by the Samarai stores does not appeal to me. The experience of wearing clothes until they actually fall of ones back, if discomfortable is at least amusing. The opposition sending out their boys to scout the villages for natives possessing pencils. Weather fine, but hot. So far there appears little variety in the temperature between this, our summer, and the winter. Until we get some more rain, have to use hole water, for bathing purposes.
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OCT 27
To Tiavia, just sufficient moon to see track. presented much hulla baloo, dark patches, [indecipherable] are natives loom up out of the shadows; across their shoulders a stick upon which are suspended bunches of fish shining like molten silver in the moonlight. There were about fifty boys, the fishing fleet was just in, they were off to one of the bush villages to exchange their catch for vegetables and such other commodities as villages they might be requiring which they did not themselves produce. Different section of the community follow divers callings. Naturally the coastal villages are the fishermen, pearlers and canoe builders. Britala, Katva [Kitava] and Vakuta, one of the craftsmen, mainly wood carvers. The former village, are the carers of pigs, lime spoon bowls, etc, the two latter villages are famous for their carved walking sticks, particularly Vakuta. Most villages possess one or two wood carvers, but the three villages mentioned produce the finest carvings. Kativa is an island, S of Kiriwina the main island. In Tiava village, this is one of the least picturesque one the villages, there are no tall graceful palms; but for the exceptionally large open space in the center, it has rather a squalid appearance. The air heavy with the aroma of [indecipherable] in the process of grilling, huddled figures squatting like grotesque shadows round the numerous fires. Whilst I was standing drinking in the scene - and the aromas: a boy came up to me; in his hand a most strange insect. Its body, about fourteen inches long =, much resembling a twig in form, its skin of the hard substance of a crayfish, its six legs and long feelers not unlike the fish. It had large transparent butterfly wings. The boy remarked: you buy 'im, Taubada": I replied "but what can I do with it?" = "all same, when morning time 'e come, you make gini gini (drawing) This remark was followed by an immense guffaw, as though he were much pleased with the brilliance of his excuse for selling this strange insect. Finding it did not appear to my sense of its aesthetic values, he then suggested: "you buy im. all same plenty good cumsum (to eat) My second refusal did not in the least damp his mirth, he laughed more than ever. Walk round village but little of interest for the brush. Some fishermen hanging out their nets, the figures caught half by moonlight and half by fire, suggested much stone imitation bronze statues, made of plaster, which are powdered on either, side with
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green and orange luminous paint. Most of the effects in the village tonight appeared rather stagy and cheap.
[attached to this page is a 2d. Stamp from Papua.]
28TH
To Wawdiou with camera. Upon each occasion that I have visited this village, a vivila has come forth and endeavoured to sell me her carved comb. I offer her one price, she asks double the amount, I refuse. This ceremony has almost become a ritual. The naïve manner in which she points out the qualities of this article of toilet is most droll. Her dainty if somewhat roughened digits, [indecipherable] the beauties of the scroll work and divers other quaint embellishments. I feel that next time I go to this village I shall fall a victim to her persuasion and buy the comb. Bethought me to smoke, drag out the strange contraption of a pipe I recently fashioned. Have been smoking but a short while, when enters, the village comedian, in his mouth an exaggerated facsimile of my pipe. the stem about a twig about three inches long wide and a foot long, stuck on the end, a who
le corncob. he sat by my side, tilted up the pipe at the same angle as my own, and pretended to light it. The villages roared with delight, even so did I, how they yelled; the piccannis jumping about in their excitement. The show was funny enough for a music hall turn. My all too bald description scarcely "puts it over" Every feature and line of the comedians face, his every gesture, fairly oozed humour. The several other occasions upon which I had seen this native, I somehow always visualised him behind footlights, little thinking that my summing up of his character would be so accurate. With so receptive an audience I felt I simply must play up to it. It was half an hour of fervid excitement. When I left the village they all [indecipherable] accompanied me to its confines the while shouting with delight. Withal my partner, the aforementioned comedian did not overdo his part. Talk of trade (Waituna) pearls, everywhere, pass boys on the tracks, "Waituna, one pound, ten shillin, five pound, and such other words sandwiched between the vernacular. Every meal time pearls are discussed. All hours of day, boys to the house with rumours of pearls, or some to trade, mainly "rubbish" (inferior quality) each trader turns them down, sending the [indecipherable] vendor to his rival on chance the rival will use up his capital on "rubbish" so that when the good stuff does materialise finances will not permit of that rival dealing. Boys are sent to make "walk abouts" in various villages, to glean information as to whereabouts of pearls.
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OCT 28TH
There is much intrigue and competition between such boys as have remained loyal to their clients. In the kitchens the domestics discuss Waituna, the air is pregnant with the possibilities of a wonderful find, which might happen at any time. To Tokwani dusky maidens make overtures for tabac, which considering the meaning thereof is over bold. Piccannins creep up, would I suddenly turn and they will fly, their [indecipherable] laughter filters the air, they were expecting me, seemingly to play catch as catch can. Crude, elemental as are these people they fascinate me immensely. It is not the best policy to laugh and joke with them, but so infectious their laughter, so immense their wealth of humour, it is beyond my temperament to maintain the pose of a superior being not of their world.
29TH
Pains in "bingy". Kills a snake, purple back, pink belly, about eighteen inches long - venomous I fancy. Weather strong S.E. cloudy, lurid sunset, interesting but not beautiful too harsh in colour. Nicknames of boys. Spider, cockroach, tea-pot, skin. The only piece of carving I have happened upon, bearing the craftsman's signature, is a facsimile in wood of a modern rifle, made by one, Tobuldgita of Vakuta.
30TH
Studies. Grey day, am thankful for a relief from the terrific glare. Several pearls brought along, unfortunately nearly all burnt; the natives have a [indecipherable] of burning the lapi (oysters) instead of opening them with a knife, result that quite one half of the pearls are burnt and of little value. The traders do not appear to know of any method of treating them. The opposition have disowned their folly in providing the boys with trade grates. The particular trader in question does not appear to understand his subject. In fact the majority of traders seemingly have obtained their knowledge of pearl buying, by hard practical experience. Bush lore is of no value in this profession or calling. This year all credit at the stores contracted, traders must pay cash for their "trade" which latter hitherto they could pay for when the pearls were sold. Unless one has "trade" and a certain amount of "the ready", to barter for the pearls, the Natives will not swim. Shall be glad to get any to work out some of their subjects. have obtained all possible studies even down to careful drawings of the most uninteresting details, which latter was a great trial of patience. The data in question did not appeal to me, but as I shall be some 16,000 miles distance, any [indecipherable] I know my subject thoroughly
31ST
Studies. To Tokwaukiva. village wireless has notified of my early departure to Samanai. Piccannis surrounded me, asked me to give a further rendering of my imitation bird sounds. Also suggested they [indecipherable] me a canoe trip to Skupokupi, being sundown to late. give the same [indecipherable]
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So good bye, I think, to Tokwaukiva, one of the pretty villages on these Islands. Schooner "Shamurch" (Capt Nelson) Just us. Conversation at Kai Kai tonight. Many of the comings and goings, including off the earth of the white population of Papua. Despite the extensive territory everyone knows everyone else. People whom it was thought had left the country permanently, have felt the call to the wild to, strong for them and returned. Despite the vagaries of an impossible and cruel climate; a few years in the country and it has got you - for good. Certainly it is a life that quite unfits one, for what we are pleased to term civilisation. I have seen life from the inside of both Government and Traders, but not Mission, could never live through such an ordeal. In both the former cases, I can quite realise how the exactions of civilised conditions would pall. How the crash turmoil and noise of cities must numb the senses. I dread my first few months out of this country, where it will not be "de rigour" to wear raiment ornate with patches, or worse still, no patches at all. In fact in Tokwaukera today, piccannis much interested to discover that I was the possession of knees complete with flesh thereon.
Cost of Living. This house 48' x 36' floor space. Height floor to ridge pole. 22'. Shingle roof. Bathroom, kitchen, two bedrooms. Main living room including verandah 48' X 24' walls of moi; i.e. pandanus leaves sown into sheets. Whole structure natives materials Main cost being labour. Total £150.
Value in Tabac Home Products
Milk
Poultry - from 6d. to 1/6 Fruit cheap Turtle per lb 1 1/2d
Butter Vegetable ch 10 - 3d Pork home grown.
Eggs 4 for 3d
House & cook boy ?.
With good husbandry tinned foods can be largely avoided. Great excitement in villages cargo of beetlenut landed. Walk about to Tiavo village. Am asked if I am seeking a vivila. It is understood in these Island, if one is making a "walk about" as night follows day, so are you chasing a bit of skirt. My personal experience is that the skirt chases me, for my tabac. To hear the music of any Trobriand song, enter any large Cathedral and listen to litany being chanted, it is an exact similie - but naturally the words - but that is another history. In village they were singing, I joined in, much excitement. They ceased suddenly, found myself singing a solo part, upon completion of which a roar went up. Whatime they crowded round. Aroma of coconut oil rather overpowering, which brought my vocal efforts to an about face conclusion. Boy] along to house, with a vivila - when asked who was the lady? he replied "My piccanni" the Trobriand
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OCT 31
equivalent "presumably" for the much worn sister yarn.
NOV 1
Studies, a "dud". Mail in. Seemingly shall get away in morning, for Samarai. Have seen more than two kinds of the villages in this group of Islands, and have gleaned every bit of study it has been possible to obtain therefrom. I have described the country and its people merely as it has appealed to me, seeing it through the mental vision of the Artist, not the studied deductions of the Anthropologist, which latter have abandoned almost in despair, the well nigh impossible task of getting at the inner meaning of the native customs, which latter are most jealously guarded from the investigation and probings of the white man. I leave this country with the full satisfaction of knowing that not one minute of the time spent herein has been wasted. I have culled every atom of knowledge that will be of proffessional interest, whether or no, a masterpiece will materialise, is a matter, time alone will prove. be that as it may, it has been unique and fascinating experience. I have lived every minute of it. To Tokiraukiva. To the house two boys from village, could not understand what they wanted. At last devined they wish to see photos that were taken in their village - the eternal egoists that is in all of us, activated their interest, two of them happened to be in the group. Photo I have seen of natives unsatisfactory, not in any one case do they give that vitality which is both the charm and fascination of these naïve peoples. The poor results of photos, due largely I fancy to being the work of amateurs. This light as difficult got the photographers as for the artist. The glare kills the subtle showdows shadows and destroys quality of line. I have never yet seen a photo of a savage of any clime that possesses a human interest. Mainly due to the fact, that the large majority of published photos depict the savage performing some strange ritual, as strange creatures, scarcely human. When actually his customs are no more singular than many of the usages that are practised by the nations that populate Europe. They are strange merely that we know less about them; that is all. Anyway my experiences here [indecipherable] these people has not been how unlikely they are to the Whites, but how very closely they resemble us. Beastly muggy night, rather [indecipherable] odorous.
2ND
Much squealing of infants white and brown, about as bad as having a studio in a crèche. 10AM "Aero" alongside Kit ready, seemingly no more to get away. 3 PM torrential rains falling in a solid sheet. "impossible to move off. Weather brakes. pile up kit and selves in canoe, away to the "Aero" So to Lousia to pay adieus to W: thence to the house of a man "gone native" House in a State of indescribable filth, timbre and floors rotted and eaten by white ants. The floor a litter of natives chewing and spitting beetlnut over everything. The raucous noise of a decrepid gramophone emitting in gasping jerks the residue of ancient ragtime songs. A white man squatting upon a jumbled filthy mass of nap which at sometimes ancient [indecipherable] was a mattress.
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2ND
[indecipherable] the ground, empty bottles, redolent of the previous night's bacchanalian orgy. Two other whites in a nondescript attire of pyjamas and day raiment, more than suggesting "the morning after the night before". All the white men more or less under the influence of Bacchus. The "Sponges" from most of the neighbouring villages had congregated to participate in the celebration of the oranije feast. One of the White [indecipherable] taken unto himself a native bride. A custom he practices upon most occassions he has visited the Trobriands . The ceremony consist of the distribution of a case of tabac, beetlenut and sapi sapi belts. The other Whites also have their vivilas but do not go to the expense of a sajali (feast) The whole of the previous night was seemingly a wild riot of women, whisky, and beettlenut, withal much brawling, the smashing up of such household items as were not already, through time and hard wear been brought to a state of decreptitude. It is rather an appalling spectacle to see a white man in the last stages of "going native" about as low a condition as it possible for a white man to get into. withal a damnable degrading influence upon the mentality of the native. The Bacchanalian, Buccaneering white man on the one hand, the smug hypocrisy of the Methodist Mission upon the other. Fortunately there is the Government to act as a balancing influence upon both parties. Meanwhile the Mission howls about the exploitation of the native [indecipherable] trader whatime they themselves (the Mission) squeeze, every penny they can out of the native, so much so that the natives always refer to the money taken as the Mission tax. Away down passage to the beacons, nearing dark, engine troubles drop trash close to "Shamrock" schooner 21 tons a liner for these waters. Sleep on board "Shamrock" Feeling most annoyed being forced to spend night rolling about, stomach in mouth, and only quarter mile off tera firma three miles from a comfortable bed on shore.
3RD
4 A.M. Boy with cup of brown liquid doing its level best to take unto take unto itself the semblance of coffee, but odors of goats (part of the supercargo) mixed with engine-room grease too much for my weak stomach. Glad to tranship to "Aero" which is rolling damnably in the steep to seas. The sky a hideous leaden grey portentious of much devilment. Sinakata and most of the S.E. Coast a grey smudge behind the screen of heavy rain, fast approaching. All aboard and engines going, not for long, however something wrong with the works. lay rolling in trough of the seas, whatime wind and tide are dragging us on to the not far distant reef. Am [indecipherable] curious at the malign fate which delays the journey. head feels as if it will split in [indecipherable]. Engines give a splutter and snort, which soon dies away to that chilling silence peculiar to a ship when its engines have cease running. Half an hour of this detestable gyrating, at last away reaching Sinakata about 9 AM. This is the completion of the first ten miles of my 16,000 mile journey. We are quickly surrounded by a medley of canoes, which lay swaying to the gentle swell, the squalls have died away. Sky clearing slightly. The day spent bagging and weighing copra. Myself to Sinakata village, portion of which, owing to heavy rain somewhat inundated reflections of huts and palms adding something of interest to the pictorial aspect of the village, but causing considerable discomfort to the inhabitants. Away at 4 pm to Rulitata. To my great relief, my two companions decide to sleep on shore. Manager of Muno plantation over for a yarn. Mainly naturally, of copra and local scandal.
4TH
Daybreak, weather calm. rouse P to get him to make a move while weather holds, not an easy task. After many delays we got off in dingy halfway to the "Aero" P finds he has forgotten something so back, am much annoyed. thought had got him off and safely shipped. a delay of some two hours at last "up North" and steaming through passage between Muno and Mainland. Much difficulty in preventing crew from chewing beetlnut, which latter makes them stupefies them and makes
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NOV 4TH
them most unreliable which might prove dangerous if anything untoward occured. Sky not too promising, sea calm but for a gentle roll - not gentle enough for my comfort. - The water twisting and curling alongside, has the appearance of blown glass. Sight vessel under sail, which appears to be helplessly drifting. Shall we continue journey [indecipherable] she is alright, or alter course? We close up shop alright but engine trouble. It is the "Sophia" with load of beetlenut for the Trobriands. The low [indecipherable] coast of Vakuta, the most southerly point of the Trobriands, now hull down. A few black spots on the horizon (the tops of the tallest palms) is all that is visible of the country wherein I have spent so many fascinating months, have encountered divers adventures, some quaint others fearsome. Right ahead the Amphlitt Group opens up. A string of Islands whose undulating slopes have the appearance of layering down in the water. Beyond them, the sinister grim looking Islands of Fergusson and Goodenough both notorious for their cannibalising inhabitants. About 1 PM reach Dum Dum, canoe alongside to take of boy who is being paid off. The village of Dum Dum situated in a hollow and the base of the mountain appears somewhat odd there being no cocoanut Palms. first village I have seen in such condition. No time to go ashore; must make passage before dark on account of dangerous reef, which abounded in these waters. Reach Dobu passage shortly after sundown; fortunately moonlight and calm sea, make entry into passage a simple matter. Ashore visit four villages, rather too dark to obtain good idea, but in half light they appear to be well kept and huts of moderately good proportions. The Inhabitants to not possess the musical voices of the Trobriand Islanders. When speaking both sexes sounded as if they were suffering from bad throats, their voices being gruff and raucous. Rather a fearsome atmosphere of acrid sulphurous vapours from the many hot springs, which abound. The hideous outlines of an extinct crater looms black and sinister terrifying in the nights gloom of night. The Earth's crust is very thin at this spot, it might open up with volcanic activity at any moment, or maybe it might be twenty centuries hence. Anyway to anyone with imagination it is rather a fearsome feeling. So to bed, but not to sleep. Being not the possession of a "swag" I must perforce use copra bags for a bed. We are camped upon the deck of this midget craft my bed is a series of hard knobs, relieved by ridges. adding to the discomfort torrential rains drop, or going through the rotted canvas awning. I turn about endeavouring to ignore the [indecipherable] importunious drops which splash upon my head, but to no effect very soon little rivulets are running along the deck, get up, everything that comes to the touch is cold and sodden, mighty thankful when dawn made an end to this discomfortable night.
5TH
Morning grey and unpromising. The 5.000 feet high peaks of Fergusson hidden by great rolling banks of grey mist. The May village on [indecipherable] show up as brown patches against the deep rich green of the vegetation and palms which nestle at the base of the crater. The sinister, rugged and mountainous country completely different in character to the low laying flats of the Trobriands. Village people and language quite a contrast. Languages differ as much in the different districts of Papua as do the languages of the Natives which inhabit Europe. Outside the Trobriands the language of this latter is dead. Hence I took no pains to study it, except so much as would be useful for my immediate needs whilst in the Islands. The sun has dissipated the mists, the [indecipherable] chugs along through the oily smooth sea. Purple cast shadows more up and down across the deck as the ship rolls and lurches. Forward against the mast, a jumble of ropes, bannans and pineapples. The dingy, keel uppermost is lashed [indecipherable] ships across the forward hatch, half disclosing the jumble of rusted cable and anchor.
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Aft of the mizzen mast, a boys sits perched upon the ship's stove, steering kerosene tins, empty and otherwise, coconuts in bundles of four, litter such deck space as remains. A boy sitting on the taff rail, cleaning up the utensils of a recently demolished meal. Off Oubia, a mission station on Normandy Island appear upon B endeavouring to make the best of a bad job, the wind having fallen away leaving his packet lurching helplessly in a ground swell. he like ourselves bound for Samarsi Samarai. Run up alongside take him off. leaving his boys to get his hooker to Samarai. Whatime they will make a safe anchorage, until a propitious breeze eventuates. B was one of my fellow passengers, on the run up from Sydney. East Cape 2 PM [indecipherable] make inquiries as to a boy L has signed on. Away much to my regret. Should like to have landed. the country appeared most fascinating. Round Cape, through a passage against a heavy tide race. Across the twenty-four miles of Milne Bay. Samarai opening up, just before sundown. which latter very fine but no subject for a canvas. the Mountain ranges and many islands which dot the sea, appear as it cut out of tin. So slip into the Harbour of pretty little Samarai. Have only visited this Island twice in my life. Upon both occassions have I arrived on a Sunday evening at 7 PM preceding and with the moon at its full. Decide not to land tonight. We are now in one of the bases of the South Sea Buccaneers. i.e. the Strekeepers.
6TH
Up betimes and in Pyjamas, land and to the hotel, where a bath, and into real clothes, the first time for eight months, though a collar round my neck likes me not. Samarai like an Island of the dead. no shipping in harbour. few people in the streets, but six staying at the hotel. such few stayers as me. on the Islands mostly "dead beats" Trade depression combined with the damnable cornering of necessary commodities by the P.B. Shipping Co. has practically strangled the county. Went to pay a few bills and book a passage. in half an hour the Co had made £50 halfpenny - withal nothing to show for it. To drawn my war pension it amounted to twice the amount I had anticipated glad, it has just helped me out of a somewhat difficult situation. Morning tea with Bank Manager, recently arrived, his Mrs a charming and most pretty woman. From what I can gather, the Methodist Mission appears to be a vast trading concern, the condition of the Native under their regime is not enviable. They save their tax money but by threats and intimidation, the Mission compel them to give it up to them, the R.M. [indecipherable] to collect for the Govt, no tax money is forthcoming for the simple reason the Mission got in first. Result, natives are hauled off to goal. The mission know this, but still continue their unfair practices. Seemingly the Mission is making a bold bid to run the whole county, despite Sir William McGregor (the late Governor) wise ordinance in all [indecipherable] separate territories to the Missions of the various religion bodies. The Methody crowd are endeavouring to obtain a foothold beyond their own boundries. Meanwhile at the present moment they are practically the only people in a sound financial condition. Whatime they preach in the cities of the trails, dangers, and impecunious condition of their Missioners, while latter are making a good fat easy living - there is more danger in the street of a slum, than exists all the territory of Papua.
7TH
Climate of Samarai very trying not over hot but very humid. This morning to a Medical Board, waiting in comfortable chair, in the cool shade of a palm, contrast indeed to the gloomy odours waiting rooms, common to most Medical Boards in Cities. Present somnelent condition of Samari. Suits me splendidly. Yesterday was able to work undisturbed, on the large spacious
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NOV 7
verandah of hotel undisturbed. Conversation today mainly as to who will win the Melbn cup. the copra market does not get a look in. This morning the "Guitana" Govt schooner, left fully armed to chase up Jap poachers, they anticipate opposition. The grass skirts worn on the [indecipherable] are longer and of a more silky texture. they make a delightful swishing common to that material when the women are walking. Must be dashed awkward to have a difference with anyone in Samarai, the Island so minute one would always be in collision. First day on shore one is introduced to "everyone, from then onwards, I meet the same people whenever I leave the hotel, be it to the P.O. Bank or one or other of the Buccaneering depots. (Stores) I run into them. Having once remarked as to the climate conditions of the particular moment, there is nothing left further to say. Consequently a nod of the head must suffice for speech. The Planters, Traders and such as are more or less dependent upon the native for their enterprises, I suppose the infantile mentality and stupidity of the latter must be rather exasperating. But to me they are a wonderful people living in a wonderful dreamland, one of nature's most exquisite masterpieces as yet unspoiled by the superabundant ignorance which goes hand in hand with this, our civilisation The lives and habits of these peoples are not all beautiful, But I came to this country in search of the divine, not the gross realities, which naturally must exist in any nation. Happy indeed am I that throughout the period of my visit I have retained my idealistic vision. Nine o'clock drum just gone, when all natives must be within their native quarters, and such as are belong to boats must betake themselves to their ship. "Movie" night. Hotel rates from 10/- per day.
NOV 8th
To old Sol' rubber plantation at LOANI, some fifteen miles from Samarai. By time "Aero" loaded we were made discomfortable by all the comforts of a home, i.e. a collection of chairs tables, double bedstead and divers other domestic adornments were were conveying to old Sol. Approach to planatation rather forbidding aspect; mangrove swamp and range upon range of frowning hills covered with heavy timber and dense vegetation. Fitting haunt for the twenty port pythons common, to this, the mainland. A heavy sullen day, the valleys filled with mist we had to traverse a narrow track scarcely a foot wide encroached upon by dank grass, and the spreading leaves of sago. Tall trunks of trees towering some hundred feet, the foliage casting dense shadows across small ravines, upon nothing more substantial than felled logs [indecipherable] eighteen inches in diameter such of the track as was not submerged, was a quagmire of soil and dead vegetables with [which] clung to the feet. The house was situated upon a small plateau, for Papua, quite a comfortable building, wall of sago bark, glazed windows sago thatd roof. In the rear numerous Paw paw trees, in front, a few rose bushes and hibiscus. overlooking the valley and the sea beyond. but for this small clearing, the surrounding heavy vegetation and tall timber, closed in the immediate movement, which was not oppressive. Perhaps for month at a streak the solitary man, might not behold a white face, excepting at such times as he visits Samarai. He is a man of meagre proportions. Protruding cheek bones, hollow eyes, a small pointed beard turning to grey, his complexion an ugly unhealthy yellow. A man who has spent many years in Tropical climes. He heard over [indecipherable] from afar and was half way down the track to meet us, when we arrived. The Plantation in common with the rest of Papua, owing to track depression was reduced to stagnation, no boys at work, the huts and rubber have fallen into disrepair. Scratch any portion of one of the trees and it bled, much as would a scratch or cut on human flesh - the blood in this instance being of a white and [indecipherable] creamy texture. The trees are tapped, by cutting the bark obliquely at the base of the cut a cup is hung into which the rubber flows, this is then tipped into a dish and taken to the house, by which time it has formed into a consistency of a stiff junket. an acid is added which conjulates the rubber, it is then rolled into slabs, smoke that process completed it is ready for shipment. An old fellow some eighty years of age, David Davis, has just returned to Samarai, after an absence of a year in the wilds of the hinterland. The people who lived in cities followed by millions of our own kind, do not understand what it means their terrible isolation. Perhaps spending two or more years without sight of a white face. perchance for months at a stretch living on canned meat and hard biscuit, at time not even this. The old Pioneer streak of Papua is dying out, there appears to be no new blood to fill the place of these splendid old timers, men who have faced indominitable insurmountable odds with indomitable courage, Many in the grim battle, have "some issues" There are men in Samarai
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to-day, whom [indecipherable] circumstances have beaten from their quest, which hang about the verandahs of the two hotels, or listless pace the jetty, They are old, broken, but ready to buckle on the sword and make another fight, when an opportune condition occurs. Ready is this old brigade to once more face the privations and dangers of the untamed wilds. They are bent, crumpled, but the vital fire remains - their eyes are clear, fearless, thwarted perchance are they, but beaten - never!
9TH
Fatiguing day, mainly business, sell two works. evening entertained Bank Manager and his wife, who have been so kind, as to offer me a room in their house, if I wish to work undisturbed. Weather fine, hot, light showers. Sunset rather good colour, not too harsh.
10TH
Simons R.M. relates some quite interesting sidelights on the native character. One night prior to sailing, he discovered one of his boys weeping copiously. Naturally he inquired the cause thereof. The boy liked not parting from his Mrs. S. made the unusual concession of permitting the boy to bring his wife. great the joy of the boy, whose good spirits remained throughout the voyage. I understand, that generally the boys do not mind leaving their wife, making good the deficiency at the first port reached. Another boy not satisfied with a mistress at each port, insisted upon going through a marriage ceremony, eventually S remonstrated, asked the boy why he wanted to take upon himself so many responsibilities, oh Taubada, more better plenty women, they make garden plenty good - the[re] were no more marriage ceremonies. So stronge is the habit is the native of carrying everything, that on one occasion a boy had to take a trolley load of stores to the other end of the town. The stores duly delivered, the boy put the heavy trolley upon his shoulder and returned in thiswise. Last night earth tremors, made everything in the hotel rattle. [indecipherable] it is not done by the best people. I have become addicted to the habit of pouring out [indecipherable] of questions concerning everybody and everything. The white population put in their spare time, of which there must be plenty, with Dancing, bridge, tennis, practically every house has its gramaphone, which have become as much part of the furnishing as the essential necessities of a home. One women tells me that although she employs seven servants, she always finds plenty to occupy her time. To-day not a piccanni of its raiment, whilst it slept for which privilege paid the mother one shilling, unless perchance its mother found a [indecipherable] substitute, the child returned home naked. Canoes here larger built on sounder lines, in a crude form suggesting in miniature the lives of a mother ship. Quite a number are minus outrigger to retain ones balance is nothing more than a hollowed log Must require considerable skill. Flo is quite the most amusing person on the island, she is the Mrs Malaprop of Papua. All the "Who's who" of Samarai had given a dance, the inimitable "Flo" was heard to remark. "Yes m'dear it were somethin' fine, all the atheletes was there." Shortly after a funeral Flo was observed walking down the main street weeping copiously, between her sobs, she remarked ": Ye-ss an' 'e died intestine" Upon another occasion she said "Ah well man composes, the Lord decomposes."
11TH
Brilliant hot sizzling morning steaming down channel, the mail ship which in the hard light looks like one of those models common to the windows of shipping offices. Samarai fluttering with excitement in anticipation of its mail. Men in cool white duck scurry in and out of the dives stores, P.O. and Bank the whole suggests a disturbed hive. Women in light Muslin parasol in hand not unlike a scene from a comic opera. I wait in anticipation for the opening chorus. In common with the scene the harbour waters are also full of activity. Schooners
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NOV 11
motor launches, antediluvian craft being past their prime, have come in from the back block to collect stores and mail. Boys from the stores and boats, brilliant in coloured calicos rush up and down, or dive in and out of the iron shed's which front the wharf. Upon their shoulder packages and parcels of every description and shape. the Bars at the two hotels become noisy with the clatter of glass and chattering voices, men lounging in deck chairs on the verandah, arms behind head call out to passers. Boy carrying valises and other impediments of travel lumbers up the hotel stairs. Officers of the ships resplendent in white. The gold on shoulder strap and buttons glittering in the sun, add a new note to the street. One or two native girls, basket of pineapples on back - they use a different mode of carrying on the mainland - one or two piccannis some in calicos others in grass skirt, trot alongside their mothers - or sit in the shade of the trees. Old timers returning from a trip south, exchange greeting and news with old companions. Stores and mail collected one by one the midget craft slip their moorings. The residents of Samarai return to their partners to digest their mail. Judge Herbert on circuit to the back blocks, his retinue of Police boys carrying his kit, adds a note of character. In less than two hours Samarai has returned to its state of somnlence. A few new faces at table is all there is to suggest the [indecipherable] event of the arrival of a mail.
Afternoon pouring rain, thick mists. Judge Herbert related a remarkable incident which happened at Kiwai Island. An alligator made off with a woman. The screaming woman in its mouth it swam into deep water, down stream, followed by natives firing arrows at it eventually the reptile dived blaggoning the woman down with it. Some little while later, a white man named Louis, who was out shooting further down stream. Through a clearing in the bush, he saw an alligator on the [indecipherable] bank, with the apparently dead woman by its side. Louis backed into the bush, the reptile facing him opened its huge jaws. Louis gave it both barrels full in the mouth. The brute disposed of, he examined the body of the woman, whom though badly mauled, was yet alive. he rushed off to the village for assistance, to which place the unconscious woman was conveyed. She recovered and is still alive. N.B. Alligators do not immediately devour their prey, but bury it to decompose. Judge Herbert tells me, that incredulous as may seem this story, there is no question as to the veracity thereof. old Sol tells me that at Wagga Wagga, some thirty miles from Samarai, that a few hours after a child is born, the mother takes it down to deep water and throws it in. in some [indecipherable] manner the infant manages to kick its way to shore. Whatime the Mother carefully watches it. on three separate occ This operation continues every morning until the infant can swim. Sol has witnessed similar incidents on three separate occassions. The woman selecting a spot where the water was deepest, presumably on account of the greater buoyancy. Milne Bay canoes in action, are very similar to the lines of a modern ship. The two ends of the canoe, not dissimilar in shape to a 15th Century galleons, on a very minute scale of course.
12TH
Judging by the little I have seen of the natives of the Mainland they do not appear such a vivacious people as the Trobriand Islanders, the women not quite such fine figures, they are heavier in build, their bodies most lavishly tattooed. Withal their method of carrying laches the grace of the Trobriand Islanders: one
AN ALLIGATOR INCIDENT.
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misses the exquisite [indecipherable], which is the charm of the latter people. In the former case they carrying their impediments, by means of a rope across the top of the head, to which rope the particular article being carried is attached, the body bent forward to support the weight on the back. Dinner at the hospital, not a large building, but all sufficient for the requirements of this small population. It is beautifully situated on the crest of the hill. From its cool broard verandah, wonderous views of bays and islands, a foreground of palms. also very fine view of China Strait famous throughout the Maritime world for its tide up every door of the wards frames a wonderous picture. When one remembers the glorious vistas seen from the windows of hospitals in cities, this is indeed a glimpse of Paradise. Despite high costs of living only six shillings per day is charged, plus - I presume - medical fees. The majority of patients are maternity ones. Upon one such occassion one of the hospital boys said to the Matron: "S inabada, you catch "em plenty good piccannini all same catch 'em boy or catch 'em girl?"
Calico belong cum cum-----feathers on a chicken
Kat belong paper ------an envelope.
Weather awful very close, teeming rain in common with rest of Samarai am suffering from a diabolical cold, feel like nothing on earth.
13TH
Judging by the assiduous manner in which all Samarai applies itself to its 11 o'clock morning tea, almost suggest it was a Govt ordinance. Both Govt and Traders appear to hate the Missions like poison. From all accounts I hear the same tale that Natives whom have come under the influence of the Mission, become [indecipherable], dishonest, liars and in many respects unreliable. one Mission after a number of years [indecipherable] [indecipherable][ indecipherable] that his efforts have proven futile. That the results of the work of the Missions is all bad, I doubt me. The [indecipherable] throughout Papua is falling off rapidly. One chief explained that the Govt prohibited them fighting. The Missions by intimidation disallowed dancing consequently there was no raison d'ete for keeping physically fit or possessing large families. However these are problems that cannot be dismissed with few words, so will leave well alone. Moreover am full up with the sight of pen, ink and paper. To Dr Giblin, where Judge Herbert, some interesting discussion. Blanket belong ink - blotting paper. Today no work time spent visiting: meanwhile am full of the sound of cheap gramophones. Weather grey.
14TH
The few carvings have seen on mainland canoes, not as lavish lives less flamboyant. Fed up with holding a show every day being bothered to death by people of Samarai to show them my works. To Kwato Mission Station of London Mission Society. It is situated in an exquisite spot, on an island about ten miles from Samarai From every part of this island, vistas of palm covered Islets [indecipherable] inslets coral reefs, with a background of the rather grander contours of the Mountain Mainland. Whole aspect of to place natives, buildings, furnishings, possesses a suggestion of refinement. None of the vulgar crudities common to the Methodist Mission Station. We landed at a neat wharf, then up a well kept path bordered with flowers and a few paw paw trees, to the Mission buildings, situated upon the top of the hill. The predominating
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NOV 14
influence was cleanliness. In the centre of the spacious furnished verandah; seated upon an old chair, a little girl, attired in a jumper, her hair tied upon the top of her head with a large black satin boy bow, upon her lap a grey cat, in her hands grasping the open leaves of a child's picture book. It might have been any wee lassie in any drawing room excepting that this one was brown. She spoke English and behaved in just such manner, as might the wee daughter aged four years, of any gentleman. Some of the grown girls possessed most striking faces, dark handsome eyebrows, long lashes, and not too heavy features, The majority were attired in two piece garments, which fitted their exquisite figures; some few were nude to the waist, the lower garment similar to an underskirt. The deportment of all was that of gentlewomen, no riot and shouting here. We were received by the Mission Wife, an English woman, very gentil in manner. Tea was brought in by one of the native girls and handed to us with great deference. As we left the main hall, all the girls sitting around stood up. Certainly the prestige of the white man (a most important factor in a colonial country) is upheld. At the base of the hill, a boat shed, one of the boys was building a whaler - a most craftsman[indecipherable] job he was making of it. He spoke to us quite good English in a subdued voice. Everything the same air of refinement. No exchange of "glad eye" with the dusky maidens of this Mission. This quietitude [indecipherable] something, but it rather lacked the robust vitality, so closely associated with the Trobriand Islanders. I appear to have given the Mission overmuch thought, but it interests me in just the same manner as would a nearly completed masterpiece (Papua) awaiting the finishing strokes of a master, or the devastating slashes of the apprentice hand to either make or mar, a fine work. Still further demands to view my work. Shall have to flee across the water to old Sol' to escape the importunities. Scarcely a grateful return for the interest my words appear to have around in Samein can only hope London will be just as interested. To progress who know Papua, they know my interpretation on canvas is correct. But fear me, shall [indecipherable] a storm of abuse from the London critics, the world hates anything it cannot understand. Not having seen it will have to take in good faith all I show it. It likes to be in a position to criticise even be that criticism erroneous. In this instance the critics will have to remain dumb or expose their ignorance of the subject. Can only hope that my work will carry by their sheer artistry. Weather grey, sultry. The London Mission teaches their people to be useful and competent craftsmen, some religion and to be CLEAN. The Methodist Mission teaches their people to howl hymns, sons and d'oyties:
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and other equally futile accomplishments, But little, if anything that is of practical use to the Natives in their villages, or of service to the white man is taught the Native. Without the ostrich like attitude of the Methody Mission toward some of the fundamental laws of Nature, will indubitably lead to vice and decadence.
16TH
Wonderful tropic day, rich blue sky, soft hazy atmosphere, sun though brilliant, not such a hard light as generally the the case. [indecipherable] It was just such a day, as my preconceived idea had always imagined the Tropics. Folk lore - LILIWA. origin of babel of tounges in Papua. An exceptionally large tree growing upon the edge of the salt water was ordered to be cut down. When the tree fell into the sea all the leaves turned into fish for which latter the Natives have a passion. They all rushed into the water and gobbled up the fish which resulted in a mixture of tounges, whereupon they formed themselves into tribes and settled in different districts. [indecipherable] of the Papuans. - There were two sisters one of who was called TISNAWAIA. Both possessed large families exactly how they came by them history does not relate. Tisnawaia could make five, but would not disclose the secret to her sister, they quarrelled for which period the sisters with their families separated. To this day there is purported two be two factions in every village throughout the Territory. Dr Giben has kindly placed her launch at my disposal to take me to Loina. Since my stay in Papua, have borrowed, food, shelter Tabac, clothing and now a launch!!!! Should think Papua will be glad when I am well away, To Loina nasty choppy sea. shark came up and pooled round the boat, but did not follow far, which is not much odds anyway. once more I am camped in another man's house, I'd better write a book the title thereof other peoples homes. The remarks concerning a mission women (Methody) whom has left Samarai gasping, is too apt not to be recorded. She is like a piece of polished mahogany and sort of woman who considered it rude to be married and would apologise if she gave birth to a child"
17TH
For studies this place is a "dud", no villages for some miles, but few natives about. The day spent looking at [indecipherable], chatting with my [indecipherable] host, whatime my fingers itching to get to work. Was hoping to get back to Samarai to-morrow: Judge Herbert has arrived which means cannot return to Samarai until the Govt launch "Ruby" comes for the Judge. This means another day "gone west" Despite the splendid hospitality of my host. I want to be working, getting just a little more of this wonderful country to take back with me. This house I am staying in was originally the property of Beatrice Grimshaw the novelist. It is situated on the plantation that was - or is her plantation. The heavy bush with its black shadows rather depresses me. As the boys come through, they sing
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NOV 17
three notes which sounds like the call of some bird. It echo's through the tall timbered forests, and is reminiscent of the echo of voices in a great cathedral, the effect is rather beautiful. At sundown one of the house boys blows upon a conch shell, to notify those working upon the plantation that the day's work is done. The sound echos and revibrates amongst the hillls, A girl working in the garden covers her working skirt, with one of better quality, [indecipherable] and wends her way home - It is the end of a fine day but for the noise of insects all is hushed. The lengthened shadows from the setting sun have faded out, night is enshrouding all with her star spangled mantle, against which the heavy forest looms up a black mass. Within the living room, the oil lamp on the table fills the room with a cream yellow glow, bright against the deeper shadows, the white duck in which of the judge is attired stand out in strong relief. From the further door the boys make their entrances and exits, as busy preparing the evening meal. The smoke from three pipes drift lazily in the still air, The tablecloth within the immediate rays of the lamp, is littered with the remains of too inquisitive insects, which latter numerous ants are endeavouring to carry away.
The judge related many interesting cases that had come before his Court, including that of a house boy, who used to play with his children. Upon this boy he had to pass the death sentence. he had seen this boy grow up on childhood. He remarked that it was like passing sentence upon one of his own children. He did all possible to get the sentence commuted, but the powers that be would have none of it. Needless to remark the Missions now so much an integral part of the country, came in for discussion. The Methody crowd do not believe in giving the boy Natives anything for nothing - quite a good policy certainly - BUT ---------------- If a boy is sick and asks for quinine, they charge him 6d for a tabloid the actual value of which is about 1/2d !! They appear to use any means possible to squeeze money out of the Native. If the boys do not meet the govt full amount of "Mission Tax" they have to make up the amount in food, or by doing work on the Mission stations. And these are thecanting hypocrites that go to Australia to preach about the exploitation of the Native by the Traders!!!
18
"Faut de mieux", studies on the Rubber plantations. Meet Mrs Giblin on her way up to her plantation. Very plucky of her to shut herself up in the hills away from any sort of companionship to look after plantation for her husband. It was quite a picture of the Tropic. Mrs G in white, the Judge with their helmet, two white children and retinue of coloured scouts, carrying kit, winding their way through the along the narrow track through the high grass, the sun blazing down. Most annoying being stuck over here whilst there
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18TH
is so much I have to do in Samarai despite the minute population of this settlement, the transaction of any business indates a most exasperating time. particularly if one is in a hurry - an unwise policy in this "dolce far niente" place. That anyone could be really busy, is seemingly beyond the comprehension of these people. Even the simple matter of purchasing a stamp is fraught with many vexatious delays. I start off for the post office, but a few yards distant. Run into M - who passes the time of day etc. another man rolls up, I am then dragged off to the hotel bar, wherein I am forced to listen to much uninteresting - to me - chatter, after several ginger beers and much twisting I manage to get away and once more follow my quest, in my meteoric flight run into M - it now being close up 11 AM, am hauled off to morning tea, after which I once more make a "get away" on the P.O steps meet a few more people. Put to some difficulty, not to appear rude manage to break through and get my stamp. This kind of thing is typical of any business one may wish to do. Of course there are the employees of the various stores, who manage to remain in their [indecipherable], otherwise time is of no account, There are so many people filling in time waiting for a boat.
Trani, has tried me sorely, no subject matter of interest to me. Two whole day practically wasted whattime the phonograph grinds out antiquated songs, or listening to the reminiscence of men, who are mainly living in the past. Some of these latter quite interesting, but to one who wants to be up and doing, this inaction is exasperating. Solomon had a big tussel with an eighteen foot python last week, left one of his legs black and blue, where it had obtained a hold upon him.
19TH
6 o'clock and a fine morning, whatime I am consumed with impatience at delay of getting away. 8.30 Govt launch "Ruby" alongside, so down hill to boat and away. All morning tearing round [indecipherable] job, round up a client. A wonderful day clear sky. First day in eight months. Tea with [indecipherable] in hospital on the hill. After dodging my invitation manage to get away to myself for quiet study. A few yards from the shore the sea, blue as sapphire gently rolls over the reef, The sun now sinking rapidly, casts long slanting shadows on the hills. Normandy Island, some fifty miles distant looms up [indecipherable] at the end of the China Strait Soft spiral of smoke drifts largely up to the sky
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NOV 18
from the villages which dot the distant islands. Numerous canoes returning to their villages, the occupants chanting as they dig the water with their paddles. The sound of their singing dies away as they become swallowed up by the distance. See an exquisite girl from Basilaki coming down the steps of a building. one hand resting upon the jamb of the door, one shapely leg thrust forward in the action of descent. Her hair jet black, shimmering in the sun, Festoons of pink coral adorn her nude torso. Out comes sketch book, by the same token do three girls surround me, including the one I wished to make a study of. Some little time later a native approaches me "good evening Taubada you make walk about? "you married?" all same why not you married? he was much puzzled at my reply in the negative. He asked me many questions - at last with some diffidence he asked me "you show me [indecipherable] you make my wife (meaning my sketch). His reason for all the preamble, was to lead up to the latter question. Meanwhile the speech now passes all too quickly. At 11 PM needs must it be Kairoie to my beloved palms. Yes I suppose it is rather wonderful to be an artist. For ever will my brush enable me to revisualise something of the wonderous life I have led for the last nine months How I have loved it, this communing with natives and I know should I return then years hence. Spots that I remember as beautiful will remain unsullied by the blasting hand of what we are now pleased to call progress. Should I return no hideous factory will rear its unsightly stack polluting in [indecipherable] smoke will pollute the air All will be as it was, may it ever so remain. There are those perchance who would call such an outlook stagnation. If this then is stagnating may so it remain. I once had an ideal Australia, in common with my other ideals it was shattered I have found another for which Dieu the lower life without an ideal is not worth the living. Sore indeed will be my heart when once more I find myself crowded within the City Walls with brush and canvas will I push inside the confining prison and see wonderous vistas of craving palms of happy contented people
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sitting round their fires discussing their gardens and their pigs - and their women. I shall hear the strange weird howls of the village dogs, disturbed by the stranger within the gates or perchance I may see in the twilight, canoes, their crews chanting as they lean to the paddles, drifting softly down the creek All this wonderful dreamland is mine by the magic of the brush.
19
Sea dead calm, ship scarcely moving, we are going dead slow, the sea like blue glass astern twisting and slipping astern like blue glass The coast of the mainland but a faint [indecipherable] scarcely distinguishable from the sky. All through the ship the sickly reek of copra which though well under hatch seems to ooze out in all directions (the reek I mean). Life on ship much the same as upon other boats except the subject of conversation is naturally of copra and other matters immediately connected with Papua. Fortunately we are not crowded, signs of the times, in my cabin is one of the ships super cargo. My paintings have a cabin all to themselves upon the upper deck. After nine months, have found that colour has not deteriorated to a great extent, the heat has dried the oil out, and rather killed the values. In one of two instances colour appears to have darkened slightly. Where a great deal of yellow and [indecipherable] are used, this is most obvious. These remarks apply to painting on prepared board.
20th
The morning clear and bright, a tropic day at its best, blue sky, a few fleecy clouds drifting lazily across. The waters of the Port, a rich Topaz slashed with pure emerald. The surrounding hills, rich browns and purples, in the heat large which softens somewhat their frowning aspect. Up the Main Street, native women, bending under their burdens, breast the the summit of the slightly rising hill, standing out brown against a background of rich blues and greens. These women burden or otherwise laugh and chat merrily as is ever their want. In the shade of the store verandahs, natives squatting, chatting and smoking, making a patch of dark
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NOV 20TH
againsts upon the brilliant sandstone of the ground, upon which fiercly beats the sun. The cool depths of the verandah, of the iron roofed hotel opposite, is suggestive of the cooler drinks to be found within. Its allurements are almost too compelling, but I have business to transact, Meanwhile as the day grows older the intensity of the heat increases. The British residents dodging between the Stores and Port offices, make splashes of dazzling light that makes the eyes ache, the white of their raiment is almost too intense. At the end of the jetty, in the harbour below, the ship that is to help me on a bit further with my 16.000 mile journey, is taking in her cargo, mainly copra. Natives from this distance are but dark blots and patches of colour, littering the waterside. Schooners from out back, looking hopelessly shabby in the blare of light, lay resting at anchor, or tied alongside the wharf, discharging their cargo, or taking in stores, whatime part of the Native crew is occupied cooking, but what is more probable eating their Kai Kai. My business completed, with the assistance of an acquaintance I slake my now capacious thirst, whatime the ship gives a warning hoot, that brings my embroyo Bacchanalian festival to an untimely finish which likes me not, for once, to my great regret the ship is well away to time. Meanwhile [indecipherable] on board and the painful process of being seen off, which cannot be accomplished without divers peregrinations to the ship's bar, is in full swing. The usual platitudes one passed. "Well don't forget to look me up" "Mind you write". etc etc. Letters never are written
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neither does the process of "being looked up" ever fructify Meanwhile Papua, quite forgetful of the Millions that go to make a city, is expecting me to do big things when I get to London - perhaps I shall - who knows? But the denizens of said City does not wish to be told that the Papuan is a real live human being. Those stodgy nine to sixs want tales of cannabilistic orgies of encounters with fearsome reptiles - but they wont get it - from me.
The screw is churning up the blue waters astern into a swirl of frothing white. The ship lifts gently the to the long roll of the Pacific. Papua, wonderful, beautiful, glorious Papua, but is but a smear on the distant horizon, The country of a phantom, one half real one half dream the stuff that dreams are made of. I have come to the page marked finis, and am loath to put down the book down Kaione. You beautiful exquisite vivilas, with your merry laughter and naughty eyes, Kaione! You [indecipherable], with your "Tabac Taubada" sometimes you've made me very cross, but God bless you. Kaione! You piccannis, with your funny little paunches, large heads and round eyes. For all our [indecipherable] civilisation, you at least, simple folk that you are, understand what is life.
[indecipherable]
When the fire is piled high and the pipe lit: in that magic hour twixt daylight and dark, the hour when fancy runs riot, my mind drifting back through space, shall harken to you in your villages; sitting round your fires, listening to old men's tales; perchance chanting your haunting meledories -
KAIONE - Good bye.
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NOV 20TH
Whatime you were brown piccannins gamble at your feet. Against the purple star spangled sky, the graceful palms, sway to the soft breeze. The denizens of the bush, fire the still night air with their strange cries: With them there is another sound, stronger, insistent, that will not be denied it is the voice of Papua. Cruel, fascinating, wonderful, glorious Papua is calling; calling to me from the bush; calling to me from the lagoons. Speaking to me in the voice, that only those who know her intimately shall hear. Some in vindictive mood she has turned into bent and broken old men, they go South in hope of better luck, but they come back. Others finding Her in happier mood become affluent, they also go South to "blew in their gain" and (as they think) enjoy life, but they too come back. I leave Her, neither broken or affluent, Must I also obey the call? IGAU - (bye & bye) perhaps - who knows!
[signed] ELLIS SILAS
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General Summing up of the result of my ten months work in Trobriand Islands, Papua
Difficulties: Intense light, humid atmosphere.
Intense Light
When painting in the open, I have tried many methods of endeavouring to eliminate reflected light on the canvas, but no method was particularly successful, moreover the light has a most [indecipherable] effect upon the sight, that in any case outdoor painting in sunlight, is not practical. In the brilliant lagoon scenes, I was mainly dependent upon memory and pencil notes, working upon the canvas in the studio. The most difficult subject was the shallow water of the lagoons; the clarity of the water and stregth [strength] of light shining upon the bottom, almost killed the reflection of the sky on the water, which latter is so valuable in giving the texture and translucency of water. Withal it not being possible to paint direct made the task doubly difficult.
Effect of climate on pigments
When working in oils, the colour will very rarely flow freely, but quickly becomes sticky and not infrequently the consistency of putty. If using turps alone, in the dry season i.e. S.E. season. When working upon nothing larger than a 14"X 10" the brush strokes have dried too rapidly to keep the work "moving" I have tried one part oil to one part turps, this was more satisfactory while at work, but later it would not dry, but remained in a sticky condition for a week or two and longer, making it almost impossible for over painting, Moreover it is inadvisable to use oil, it having a delrimental detrimental effect upon the pigment. On the whole the pigment stood very well, but has a tendency to vary slightly lower in tone, a possibility more to be feared in the wet
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season, I was fortunate in having a store room next to the kitchen in the Residency, and thus was able to keep my canvas in a dry and warm place. I rarely left the pictures in the hut I used as studio, but every few days placed them in the store. Certainly, in every way oils are a most difficult medium in this country, and it is well to avoid using them at all. On the other hand water colour, works very well, the humid atmosphe keeping the paper in a fairly moist condition, excepting during the "big wind" i.e. S.E. Season.
The pigment stands better on canvas than prepared board, such as are used in oil sketches boxes, on board the colour goes very flat, and it is not possible to oil out except at great risk to the picture or sketch. The canvas I heavily painted at the back with pure white lead and turps, also all palette scrapings, this was necessary as the canvas mildewed, and moreover the paint protected the canvas from damp. The best means of protecting all materials and finished works, is to have a tin-lined case, which must also be airtight. It is not an uncommon thing for wasps and hornets to build a nest on the face of a canvas within one hour, also the cockroaches, and other insects get at the paper, and in a few hours will eat great holes in it. Unfortunately I possessed no case, so had to be continually watching all my materials. Covering over the finished works with paper and canvas, which I had to remove every day in case insects should have commenced operation. Indian Ink worked quite well, excepting for the difficulty of keeping paper dry. The ideal medium
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I found were coloured chalks in wood. these were both easy to manage, and in the main suited the delicacy of the subjects - excepting of course where brilliant effects were desired.
Palm Trees
Extremely difficult both for colour and line. The drawing is very subtle, moreover the nature of the leaves is such as to make the subjects very complicated the strands of the leaves breaking up the masses to such an extent, that where palms were in a bunch which they generally are, the leaves appeared to run into each other, and in sunlight, the shiny surface of the leaves made points of sharp light. The palms were easiest to manage by moonlight, when the stands of the leaves massed together better. It was only by making hundreds of detail studies of every part of the Palm, and carefully observing the manner in which they grow, that I was at last enabled to overcome the many difficulties which a coconut palm presented as subject matter for canvas. Particularly difficult to render in such a heavy medium as oil. Undoubtedly I got nearer to the delicacy (which is the charm of these graceful palms), in chalk and pencil and pen, but the first medium is particularly suited to these trees.
Models
The natives will "sit" very well for the first week, after which the novelty having worn off they get very "fed up" and nothing will bring them to the studio; intimidation is useless, as they only sit and sulk and become unmanageable. Like the White people, models varied, some "sat" very well, others the reverse. in any case it
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is inadvisable to have them "sitting" for more than two hours in any one day. I have had them for longer, but it was a great trial to both of us. Naturally they are an industrious people, and when sitting still doing nothing, they always want to be occupied doing something, otherwise they have the greatest difficulty in not falling to sleep.
It is unwise to work upon too large a canvas, or keep it going too long; the variable climatic conditions preclude this. The damage - if any - that occurs to the pigment, happens while it is wet. Whilst in the tubes (unless the ants get at it) the pigment remains quite good.
As regards the actual subject matter in the country for the artist; the conditions are such, that in any case, it became necessary to forget all I knew and commence again. Values, light, colour were all different. In many cases the effects were so extravagant, so [indecipherable], that to place them on canvas exactly as they were; was not only a practical impossibility but would never be convincing. One example of this, was a hard line across the distant horizon of the sea, which had the effect as if a wire had been drawn right across, and was within easy reach of ones hand. this is only one of the many extraordinary effects I witnessed. In many instance the values of cast shadows in the middle distance were so strong as to have the effect of bringing the subject right into the foreground. No object in a landscape appeared to take its correct distance, which in many instances was a jumble of intense lights and hard shadows.
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For the first three months, the difficulties appeared unsurmountable. I thought I never should be able to obtain mastery of these intricate problems, added to which a climate, which made one feel as fatigued when one rose in the morning as if the days work was finished, not about to commence. Withal the continual onslaughts of pestilential insects the whole time was I was at work. Undoubtedly in every way, subjects, light, climate, it is about the most difficult
[indecipherable] an artist could face. To the amateur I would say, yes, go and see this wonderful country but leave all your materials behind.
Completed works in all mediums, sixty. This number includes the following.
6 24" x 20 canvas )
36 14" x 10" ) oils.
Water-colour.
Pen & ink
Chalk
Pencil.
Also four hundred sheets of detail studies, and three sketch books.
A careful perusal of the whole journal will give a more adequate and vivid conception of the difficulties of working in this country. Being a daily record, it stands to reason there will be contradictions, nevertheless there is considerable data which should be of value and
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most helpful to any who may feel emboldened to follow the rugged path that I have just traversed. Most important do not take all your materials with you, but arrange to have supplies sent out about every three months, and if practible send completed works out of the country as soon as possible. Although I had my works in Papua, for a period of nine months, without detriment there is always a big risk, which is best avoided. I do not advise anything larger than 24" x 20" canvas as the question of carriage transport is exceptionally difficult particularly in the Back-Blocks; any journey by water may have to be made in small & possibly overloaded trading scows, where there is not room for a large case - or in canoes, which latter cannot take heavy freight, without risk of capsizing. It is not practicable to take canvas off stretches and roll, as the colour remains too sticky to do this with safety.
If possible endeavour to keep at least the same boy with you the whole time; as he will get to know how to handle your kit and materials, such as lifting a canvas or board without thumbing the work. Although it is advisable to handle all your painting kit personally; but there are occasions when conditions might prevent you so doing, such as sending a boy to your hut, for any small thing that might be overlooked, when starting on a journey, and you might be some distance away when you discover your omission, and in such a climate and over such tracks, you cannot personally go tearing back for kit, consequently if you have a boy that know how to handle your things, it will be
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moderately safe to send him; though the fact must never be overlooked that these people are merely grown children, but on the whole with careful handling they are fairly reliable. So get your boy, and train him the way he should go, and it will add much to your comfort and peace of mind.
When travelling with a canvas, I have a light wooden case made, with a waterproof cover, the uncertain climate makes this latter essential, even if you are going to work but a short distance few yards from your hut, rain storms come up very rapidly, and when it rains in the Tropics, there is no "short weight." So always have a piece of waterproof cloth with you, to enable you to cover up your work at short notice.
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Pronounce as in French DICTIONARY Trobriand Islands
KUMA Come -- LAPI Pearl oyster.
Bima Bring - to me -- WAIRUNA Pearl
Kulosi Go away -- VALU Village
Avake What do you want? -- SOPI Water
Kusheli Sit down -- LUIA Coconut
Taikaia Stand up -- DONA Skirt
Kummum Drink -- DOGA Head attached to band of sapi sapi
Kumai dono Bring everything -- SAPI SAPI Native wealth
come everyone -- (disc with hole in center)
Kaione Good bye -- DOLI DOLI Body belt
[indecipherable] -- usually plaited
Igau Bye and Bye -- KWASA Armulet Plaited on a ?
[indecipherable] -- KAINSOBA A decorated pandamus
leaf, held in hand when
swimming or dancing
Boina Good
Sina boina Very good -- KIKITA Small, little
Ginigini To put down on paper, --BOBAUOO Native pipe
write, decorate, paint. --KAIBOMA Food bowl
Kai Kai To eat --BOIMA Food house Store
Kum Kwam To eat -- TUKWALU Wooden image
Pouri pouri To poison, cast a -- KENU lime spoon
spell over. -- LAGUMA lime gourd.
Gaga No. -- WAGGA canoe, boat.
Tepaie To smoke. -- DIM DIM Appertains to white people
Gaga Bad -- VIVILA Women (Spinster)
Bogiwak )Finish -- TDU Man
Bogliwauk )Finish -- SAGALI Feast
Ambessi Where are you going?-- KOVA fire
Umber Were is it? -- BANUKA pig.
Sina bida bada plenty -- DAKUNA Stone, rock
GUIAOU Chief
KUM KUM Chicken
PAU Egg
TAUBRADA Master (while man) Term used throughout Papua
SINABRADA White Woman Term used
throughout Papua
LEGEGU [indecipherable]
SUSU milk
KAIDEBU Dancing shield
SINATA Comb
MUKWALA Like this, like that
KAI Wood
FEMALE NAMES (PERSONAL)
Pendita - Sakias - Bodigai
Bumrauau - Towadai - Sawai
Bobidia - Taleuga -
Boitana - Pilula
Toploqasi
Moliasi
Tu-ulu
[Transcribed for the State Library of New South Wales by Colin Smith and Rosemary Cox]